| Hey all,|
My buddy just brought his newest project by the house (also asked to store it over here) and was wondering about it.
He'll probably be asking questions here in the near future, but I was out looking it over closely this morning and wanted to do some digging about the bike.
It is a Dayton Superb (step-through), with a sturmey 3-speed dated 56, dynohub, half chain guard. The headbadge says: "Dayton Cycle Co., LTD.* London" The D on the headbadge is in the shape of a micrometer. @6" x 1 3/8" wheelsets, 32/40 spoke patterns.
Anyone got any info on this black beauty?
| I have a Dayton catalog but I think it's a bit older---sam|
Just a cool like for you to check out--nothing to do with Dayton
| Looking for a working frame pump for my 63 Rudge Sports. Anybody have one they are willing to part with? Cash or possible trade.|
| I was fiddling around a bit today with the Raleigh Sports Identification project (anyone stil remember this?), only to realise I made the mistake of generalizing all models from 1945-1979 as the DL22. Of course, we all know this is not the case, the "DL22" hasn't existed since '45, however, Raleigh models similar in appearance have existed since, gradually evolving into what we know as the DL22.|
My questions are:
#1: When did the "DL22" model actually debut?
#2: What model(s) came before the DL22 that could be considered its predecessor(s)?
| Also would be interested to know what time span the spartain Sports S22/S22L models were available - only catelouge I have seen online that makes mention of it is the '62.|
| My 75 catalog lists the Sports as DL22. When was the rod-brake 26" model dropped? And when did the cable-brake model appear?|
| Was checking some older posts by Peter here, and I believe the "DL22" designation was first used in '52 - prior to that, it was "Model 22."|
Depends what you mean by "rod brake model" or "cable brake model" - neither 26" model replaced the other. The rod brake models are generally the Dawn, Sports Safety or '80s Royal Roadster models, but no standard "Sports" (back then, known as a "Sports Light Roadster") ever came 'at first' with rod brakes and then switched over. Models were simply discontinued, and brand new ones took their place.
| Exactly. When did a 26" cable-brake model first appear in the catalog and when did the rod-brake 26" last appear? (And I think "DL" is just an abbreviation for moDeL...)|
| Ah - I understand now.|
I have no idea as to the exact date of the first cable-brake 26" model, although the earliest catelouge I have at my disposal, Sheldon's 1939, shows the Model 35/36, the Sports Light Roadster, as having cable brakes. Incidentally, this model bears a striking resemblance to the DL22s, and exhibit a most interesting additional feature: Wingnuts - on both front and rear hubs (no gear, singlespeed freewheel).
Last year for any rod-brake 26", I would not know - you'd have to specify as to the U.K. market or U.S. as well.
Take a look at the product range between Sheldon's 1958 U.K. catelouge and 1962 U.S. catelouge. In contrast to the variety of the U.K. models of 4 years before, all the U.S. models are very similar: Every single one a cable-braked light-roadster model or racing bike.
There's a nice Sturmey 3 or 4 speed shifter complete with all the fittings and cable on Ebay right now. It's the old type with the metal wheel on the seatpost pulley.
and yes it is my auction. I finally got around to this Ebay thing. I will be putting a lot more on soon.
|Greetings. I have a BSA Paratrooper bike (yes, the real WWII folding bike) and I'm completely refurbishing it. I need to disassemble the rear hub. The drive (sprocket) side of the hub notes that it's a left hand thread. My question is... do I remove the outer ring with a pin spanner wrench first OR do I remove the inner ring with the two notches first? Any advice on what tools/techniques to use? There is a picture of such a hub at: http://bcoy1cpb.pacdat.net/BSA_rear_hub_right_side_BSA_MK_X_colour.jpg Thanks!!!|
| Lawrence, I know nothing about your BSA but looking at the picture, it sure does look like a single-speed (sprocket) freewheel. Compare with a bike shop's BMX freewheels...if that's what it is then the freewheel unscrews from the hub with regular right-hand threading. The part with the holes for pin-wrench are for disassembling freewheel and this is not recommended unless a solvent bath and oiling doesn't get it to work properly. To unscrew freewheel, you first need to find (or make) the proper tool that fits the two? notches. Then the trick is to hold tool in a vice while wheel/tire is unscrewed. If you are unsure about this procedure, a decent vintage LBS should be able to remove freewheel. |