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Archived: English Roadsters

AGE / VALUE:   1964 Armstrong posted by: Alex Quarterley on 7/30/2005 at 8:54:07 PM
I was wondering what a 1964 Armstrong would go for?

   RE:AGE / VALUE: 1964 Armstrong posted by Ed on 7/31/2005 at 1:26:11 PM
I would have to see if the headbadge says Nottingham England. The reason I need to know is that Raleigh made a special size part for the headset and bottom bracket. Everyone else in England made bicycles to a different standard (normal). The bicycles that don't say Nottingham, I think are more desireable. Lower production and easy to find parts. Give us a little more information about color size and style. Ed

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rare Raleigh color poster from 1940s-50s for sale posted by: NBHAA on 7/30/2005 at 12:13:42 PM
We have a few very rare original Raleigh bicycle full color posters for sale. We got these from an old dealer when he retired back in the 1970s and they were very old even then. We have kept them all these years stored out of the light, so colors are brilliant. We have one on Ebay right now ( Ebay item # 6549199674 ) and have a good handful of these left that are extras from our large collection, but once they are gone there will be no more. We would like to sell our remaining stock to Raleigh fans out there. Thanks for reading this posting!


AGE / VALUE:   wanted, hey guys long time no speak posted by: ronnie on 7/30/2005 at 12:00:55 PM
Hey guys, got out of the game for a while, looking to buy a 28 inch raleigh, hurc, or sunbeam, must be 28 inch, any help or leads will do, sold out my whole 28 inch collection last year.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   wanted, hey guys long time no speak posted by george on 8/18/2005 at 5:00:03 PM
hi Ronnie, have you purchased one yet? I have 3 28" Raleighs from the late 1970's. One of them is a 22" frame which I think I may keep for at least a while. At 5'7" I can ride it with no problem and I love it. These bikes are CLEAN. I will be polishing/lubing etc then listing on Fleabay. What are you looking to pay?

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   On the subject of Sports VS DL-1s... posted by: Kurt K. on 7/29/2005 at 11:09:35 PM
...how about combining a little bit of both?


It has brakes like a Sports, bars like a Sports, rims like a Sports, a frame design like a Sports, but slack frame angles, just like the DL-1.

Wouldn't you just love to have one of these, eh?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   On the subject of Sports VS DL-1s... posted by David on 7/31/2005 at 1:04:08 AM
The slack frame angles are not discernible from that picture.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   On the subject of Sports VS DL-1s... posted by Kurt K. on 7/31/2005 at 1:38:52 AM
No? I see them - especially in the headtube and fork of the Gent's model.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: On the subject of Sports VS DL-1s... posted by Mike on 7/31/2005 at 3:34:55 AM
Nice bicycle, Raleigh's line in 1939 was truly classic. This particular bike, nearly as I can tell, does appear to be a Roadster angled frame (I'm basing this on the amount of sloping that the fork seems to need to get from the axle to the steering tube.

The array of classic roadsters and light roadsters and club machines as well as business-oriented bicycles in that catalogue is amazing. Today we often think of there being 3 kinds of English bicycle: sports, roadster and club. But as this catalogue shows there were many models that crossed breeds that we too often forget about today.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   On the subject of Sports VS DL-1s... posted by David on 7/31/2005 at 3:59:01 AM
Notice that they are available either with chrome-plated parts or "all-black finish" as an option. This is a 1939 catalog (it must have been published before war broke out) which is offering what is often thought to be a finish intended to satisfy wartime blackout regulations.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   On the subject of Sports VS DL-1s... posted by P.C. Kohler on 8/2/2005 at 2:31:46 AM
All-black enamelled roadsters had nothing to do with black-out regs or even chrome shortages. They date from at least before the First World War and were usually called "all-weather" models. It was held that no chrome made a machine easier to clean (nor not bother!) and less prone to rust. Everything was double dipped in that glorious thick British black enamel! Most of these machines also had special "valanced" mudguards with sides, rather like old motorcycle 'guards of the era. The best examples of these are the pre-war Rudge-Whitworths and to me they are the most elegant of all roadsters. A beautiful example was sold on eBay (UK) last autumn as I recall. Gorgeous!

Raleigh Dawns and Populars were both offered in all-black finishes before the war. Commercial cycle production ended in the UK before shortages really kicked in and I am not aware of too many wartime economy models other than those made for HM Forces and auxiliaries. None of these had chrome and were all-enamelled.

P.C. Kohler

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Quality Differences posted by: Mike on 7/29/2005 at 2:26:14 PM
Was there any difference in overall quality in the 70s between the Sports and the DL1? I know they're different kinds of bicycle in terms of the details, but, for example, did the DL1 use better or worse materials? I have always assumed the DL stood for Deluxe and that it was the "top of the line" bicycle for Raleigh. I'm not sure about this or if it applies to the 1970s.

The reason for this is that it's school time again in August, which means law school and I'm going to be taking a bike with me as a recreational ride along the shore bike trails (and occasional fair weather commuter short distance). I have a Sports and a DL1 and am weighing the options of which to take. They're both in pretty good condition and I was wondering if one of the two was simply "made better" or of "better materials" than the other. Thanks for the help.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Quality Differences posted by Willie L. on 7/29/2005 at 4:41:23 PM
From what I've observed, it appears that the materials and workmanship of a Sports and a Tourist are the same for bikes of the same period (same carbon steel tubing and plating quality on both). I feel the bikes built in the sixties are of slightly better workmanship than ones from the seventies. Of course this is a generalization but my seventies Raleigh Sports and Grand Prix have rather large braze gaps in places that few sixties Raleighs seem to have.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Quality Differences posted by Kurt K. on 7/29/2005 at 4:46:27 PM
Although the overall fit of parts of 1970s DL22 and DL1 models are reasonably on par with each other, I'd say the Sports is a much better bike for the use you intend to put it to, both as to the ride aspect and repairs.

The late '70s DL-1's braking abilities are minimal, in my opinion, especially with the cheap chroming used on the 28" rims (which, for some reason, always is far worse then the chrome used on the 26" models - in fact, most department store bikes of the era had better plating), and is not safe for anything but very leisurely paced commutes...on level ground.

I also find that even the U.S./U.K. spec handlebars leave a bit to be desired in terms of knee clearance - the narrow export bars leave no room at all. The extreme slack angles in the frame also make for very sloppy cornering.

The Sports, however, makes up for every shortfall of the DL-1 that I've mentioned, except for two: The larger 28" wheels (which absorb road imperfections a lot better), and the fact that a DL-1 is a much more elegant machine (not that the Sports isn't, but it's a hard contest!), and turns many more heads (I would say "coolness factor", but we're not talking about Schwinns here).

And, of course, in wet weather, hardly either of these bikes come to what you may call "lawful, complete stops." That's when it's very handy to have a drum brake up front.

>I have always assumed the DL stood for Deluxe and that it was the "top of the line" bicycle for Raleigh...

Not true. I believe DL is short for 'Model' - not 100% sure upon that point, but Peter Kohler made a point of the "DL" designation in a rather recent post, no more then a week or two ago. All Raleigh models from sometime in the late '50s on began to use the DL suffix in their name, for example, DL-22 (Sports), DL-1 (Tourist/Roadster), DL-175 (Professional Track), DL-135/140 (Raleigh Super Tourer, 5/10 speed), et cetera.

Take care,


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Quality Differences posted by Mike on 7/29/2005 at 5:12:44 PM
If it helps any for specifics the Sports is a 74 and the DL1 a 78. I imagine they are close to the same in quality. Both would be used in a pretty leisurely fashion and the ground near the school, from what I've seen is pretty flat cause it's on the shore. Are there any chrome replacement rims for the 70s rims that retain the old style look but brake better with the rod brake shoes? Those brakes are a bit anemic compared to even side pull calipers, though they aren't horrible still.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Quality Differences posted by Kurt K. on 7/29/2005 at 10:16:56 PM
Go with the Sports, Mike. DL-1s aren't that good in traffic (foot or automobile), and are a pest to hold up and maneuver at pedestrian crossings - even worse when trying to get moving with a crowd of people around you that don't appear to realize that a the DL-1 is not a nimble steering machine.

The largest selection of 28" Westwood rims that I have seen available online are the ones from Yellow Jersey:


(Anyone here agree that the Eastman decals are positively disgusting?)

Unfortunatly, Yellow Jersey also has some of the highest prices I've seen so far (save for those less then service-oriented fellows at Bikeville.com) for these Westwood-type 28" rims.

Stay away from the Eastman rims - no better then what you have now. The Beretta 36h rim in front and the Araya 40h in back would be your best option. Might want to double check that the Araya is a Westwood though - looks like it might be one of those oddball Westrick 28" rims.

We of course know from a previous discussion that your DL-1 and all others made in the '70s featured 36/40.

Furthermore, while the rims may help some, the original pads that came with these roadsters are also of questionable quality...and Yellow Jersey litterally wants the keys to Fort Knox for a pair. It isn't worth it.

If you can find out how slide in some decent, new brake blocks without damaging the tab on the original holders, you might just succeed (with new rims of course) in putting together a quick-stopping DL-1.

Take care,


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Quality Differences posted by David on 7/31/2005 at 1:09:42 AM
I'd take the Sports with me to school - if I could only have one bike, etc. And you can find parts on trash night. If brakes are a problem, you might get aluminum wheels made up for it; just a front if $ is a problem. That should improve your brakes tremendously.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Quality Differences posted by Mike on 8/1/2005 at 5:07:51 PM
I did break down and get a set of the Yellowjersey Fibrax pads and they are actually really good. I had an old set of generic pads on there in front and the new, good pads make a difference. I also got one of those upgraded rims from YJ as well and that has helped also. You are right about those export bars though, mine has the narrow old style bars and the knee clearance is a bit on the slim side. I think I will go with the Sports if I'm going to be in a dense urban area or living on an upper floor apt where there is no elevator. Thanks.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rear fender posted by: addamit on 7/29/2005 at 4:10:55 AM
I'm looking for a bronze green rear fender for my raliegh sports does anyone have one in reasonable condition that they might part with for reasonable compensation?

AGE / VALUE:   Product Review / Recommendation posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 7/28/2005 at 9:39:52 AM
Having recently procured a new Automobile, I treated myself to some interesting wax to keep it in top shape.

Well... I rolled 4 miles or so on the DL-1 last night... and upon my return got to thinking... it's getting a bit dingy looking. Thought to myself... why not try that new wax on it? It did wonders for the car... but I figured the car would look great being new and all.

Anyhow.... I put this stuff on the bicycle and it literally glows now....

Give it a try! Meguiar's "TECH WAX". Some sort of synthetic polymer... it's amazing stuff. A bit pricey but a little bit goes a LONG way!


Larry "Boneman" Bone

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Product Review / Recommendation posted by Mike on 7/28/2005 at 2:49:41 PM
I also used an Auto wax on my DL1. Mine is black, of course, and had become faded over the years due to sun exposure. I used the new auto wax found in the garage and it really did nicely. I went easy on the finish so as not to carve up the pinstipes and the wax shined the black up fairly well. I'm not sure the brand of wax (it was a spray of some sort) but I'm sure most high quality car waxes that are able to work on clear coated auto paints will be okay. Just don't go overboard and it should work fine.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Product Review / Recommendation posted by Kurt K. on 7/29/2005 at 1:43:02 PM
My product of choice for paint upkeep is good ol'e Turtle Wax straight from the tub dispenser. Nothing better then an old wax formula for old paint, I like to say.

My father brought by some spiffy (and expensive) 3M wax for clearcoated paint one day - and it didn't work half as good as Turtle Wax. Then again, do the '70s Raleighs actually have clearcoats?

For polishing out flat spots, I either choose Kiwi Neutral shoe polish (if I am worried about nearby transfers or pinstriping), or 3M Microfinishing Compound (for the tough jobs). I then finish off with...you guessed it - Turtle Wax.

Take care,


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Product Review / Recommendation posted by Mike on 7/29/2005 at 2:25:12 PM
A correction on the above the product I used was not an auto wax but a light grade auto polish. I don't think I've ever used wax per se, but the polish worked to good effect. Just have to be careful with it.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Product Review / Recommendation posted by Ed on 7/29/2005 at 3:22:19 PM
I've Enjoyed great success with a product called "Bike Lust".Worked better for me on serveral old faded frames then any of the popular brands of car waxes that I've tried.
Problem is that it's becomming more and more difficult to find. I was even told recently by one shop employee that the EPA had caused it to be taken off of the market. I rather doubt this however since I located some in another shop after being told this. It is a spray on wipe off liquid sold in about a twelve oz. can. Good luck with your project.


AGE / VALUE:   love, travel, &bicycles posted by: sam on 7/27/2005 at 10:00:58 PM
Joseph meet Elizabeth when they both were contracted to do a book on the historic buildings of Philadelphia.Joseph did the drawing and Elizabeth did the writing,they were soon married.
Joseph had been a bicycle nut from his first ride,Elizabeth soon also loved cycling.Their work of drawing and writhing took the newlyweds to England.They were ever in demand for magazine articals and drawing.The bought a Humber tandem tricycle and soon did their first book on cycling.31 years they spent in England before returning to the States.Joseph was the SUA rep in England for the Wheelmen and he also rode for the Pickwick Cycling Clubin England.Their last cycling book was "Over The Alps on a Bicycle---dated 1898.It was their love of eachother,their love of cycling and their love of art(writing and drawing)that won the harts of the public for this new form of travel.Through their eyes and books and articals the public learned of cycling.As I said they returned to the USA but did not stop cycling---Joseph was secretary of the Germantown Cycling club.And they contuned their work in words and drawing.Till Joseph's death in the late 20s.
travle to those lands---in there books---sam


   RE:AGE / VALUE: love, travel, &bicycles posted by sam on 7/27/2005 at 10:35:57 PM
Joseph & E.Robins Pennell.

AGE / VALUE:   Stainless Raleigh pattern rims posted by: Ed Lang on 7/27/2005 at 6:01:33 PM
I have a Raleigh Sprite with an S5 hub. This bicycle is a 68 and it has what I belive to be a set of stainless rims by Sturmey Archer. They are marked 26 x 1 3/8 SS. Has anyone run across this type of rim? The rims are very well polished and are the Raleigh rased center style. The bicycle was an exceptional deal at $100. I think that it is in good shape because the original shifters were a poor design and no one wanted to ride it. I have changed the shifters to a left hand mtb shifter and a standard SA 3 speed shifter. Ed

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Stainless Raleigh pattern rims posted by nat on 7/28/2005 at 4:10:57 AM
The wheels on my 51 raleigh are stainless steel 28 x 1 3/8 - Highly recommended

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Stainless Raleigh pattern rims posted by Dick in FL on 7/28/2005 at 4:42:50 AM
I notice that you refer to these wheels as Raleigh "pattern". I call them Raleigh "patent". I've seen both term used numerous times always assuming the usage was inherited without scholarly inquiry. Do you perhaps have a link to a good reference to clarify this for me once and for all.

BTW: Nice find! I admire these wheels enormously and have a small stockpile of them .... uh ...none stainless though.

Thanks...Dick in FL

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Stainless Raleigh pattern rims posted by P.C. Kohler on 7/28/2005 at 4:02:58 PM
I got a nice c. 1969 stainless steel wheelset for my DL-1 from St. Johns Cycles (UK) complete with dynothree hub awhile back. Stainless rims, oddly enough, were mainly offered in the early 1950s when Raleigh and other British industries faced a chronic chrome shortage (among other materials). At first Raleigh seemed to apologise for the substitution and then folks realised stainless was an improvement and it was offered on the better machines like the Superbes.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Stainless Raleigh pattern rims posted by Dick in FL on 7/28/2005 at 8:29:55 PM
I've heard that chromium shortage tale before and it always leaves me sceptical. Typical stainless steels hover around 18% chromium content which would dwarf the thin chrome film on plated steel wheels.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Stainless Raleigh pattern rims posted by nat on 7/29/2005 at 3:19:29 AM
My 51 raleigh has a front dyno with a bullet lamp that was painted black over chrome. My opinion is that painting chrome black was intially to do with blacking out light & reflections during WWII bombings in the UK & Europe. Although the practice seems to have continued until the early 50's. There probably was a shortage of all sorts of material as well but I can't see any other reason to take a bullet lamp, chrome it, scratch the chrome & paint it black (apologies to the rolling stones)- Well that's my justification for re-chroming it anyway.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Stainless Raleigh pattern rims posted by David on 7/29/2005 at 10:28:47 AM
And was painting over chromed parts actually required in England during the war? It doesn't make much sense, but as the daily newspapers prove, government regulations during "wartime" are often nonsensical.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Stainless Raleigh pattern rims posted by Matthew on 7/29/2005 at 8:25:37 PM
In the early weeks of the WW2 blackout more people died or were injured as a result of traffic accidents in the dark than died or were injured as a result of enemy action in the UK during the same period. Blackout regulations were fairly stringent and Air raid wardens were very strict and particular about light showing from any window or door. It was an offence to allow light to show from a building in the hours of darkness. In this atmosphere of fear people went 'over the top' with black out precautions and this would include painting over brightwork on bicycles cars and motorcycles. The Regulation lighting allowed on motor vehicles was nothing short of dangerous, slits in lamp covers at the front and miniscule rear lamp were order of the day. Interior lamps operated by opening the doors were almost unheard of anyway and were not encouraged at all. Buses and trams travelled with unlit interiors. The blackout was all consuming, even city dwellers speak of not being able to see your hand in front of your face on dark nights and moonlit nights were a boon for bombers. Petrol rationing stopped unneccesary journeys. It is not rare to find cycles with blacked out chrome work, even now. Many early war issue military cycles were built from civilian stock with chrome fittings simply painted over with drab kahki or RAF blue paint.
It was steel that was in very short supply after the war as was power too. Running a chrome plating plant was an extravagance which could be ill afforded in a financially stretched UK. It was all out for export production, that's why the Rover car company experimented with and built a cheap to build, flat panelled, aluminium bodied utility vehicle to boost their export market and dig them out of the doldrums. It wouldn't be a long term project and would just get them back in the market. They called it the Land car or Landrover; still being built over 55 years later.
Back to cycles I rebuilt a war time civilian Raleigh. It was all black, no chrome at all. The 3 speed hub had no chrome on its casing and the wheel rims were painted black too, not over chrome. The chainguard was a hockey stick type to save steel. Front and rear battery lamps were black enamel and the handle bars were painted too. This bike had never been chromed anywhere and due to its history I have no reason to think it was tampered with. During the rebuild I was careful to strip and investigate but never found a trace of chrome at all, the ultimate blackout machine, leaving chrome plate for more important things like searchlight reflectors.

Matthew - Nowadays bombers are harder to spot and Londoners have taken to their bicycles once more. 07/07/05

MISC:   Larz Anderson National Bike Show and Watertown Swap/ August 14th posted by: Peter Naiman on 7/27/2005 at 1:33:02 PM
A number of events beside the Concours are planned for Sunday August 14th. David Herlighy, noted cycle historian and author will be attending and doing a book signing and talk, the Wheelman will be attending and plan on riding at the show in period dress with possibly giving demonstration on riding a highwheeler. Mavic Wheels which is now a sponsor of the show is planning a demonstration which I will have more information on later.

At 9:00AM Jack Demerest or as most of his friends know him as Five Speed Jack will open the day by leading a ride through Bostons famed Emerald Necklace and return to the show at roughly 10:00AM for the shows opening. For those who want to drop off bikes and go on the ride, I will be at the Museum of Transportation by 8:30AM to take bikes in so those folks can go on the 9:00AM ride.

For more information about the show, please see our website at www.oldroads.com/show and thank you to Webmaster Vin Vullo for updating and hosting our site.
I can be contacted on my email address listed with this post for additional information on the show.

Hope to see you all there.

Peter Naiman
Shorewood, WI

AGE / VALUE:   Indian Scout posted by: Bryan on 7/27/2005 at 2:09:24 AM
Cool Indian Scout on CL: http://boston.craigslist.org/bik/87120647.html

Jeff in Shutesbury--lost your email address but thought of you when I saw this bike.

No relation to seller.

Bryan in CT

AGE / VALUE:    Triumph N.O.S. t's nice for a change posted by: Chris on 7/25/2005 at 10:36:33 PM
Today I said the heck with it and opened the box containing the new Triumph bike. This is complete with a Brooks mattress saddle and original Raleigh pedals. These pedals do not have the Raleigh Heron stamp but are wearing the Sir Walter Raleigh stamp that is Raleigh's trademark. Same pedals, Union made in Germany. We usually see these with the center portion of the tread stamped with a round stamping and the tread is different and the pedal is a bit shorter and the pedal looks junkier quality wise. Still it is a direct descendant of the Union pedal we see on our Raleigh Sports, superbes D.L.1's and Choppers. So even the Union pedals went thru changes. Raleigh went to Union's pedals after they stoped making their own. It was a big deal when that happened. Before that, they (Raleigh) came out with a sintered bearing pedal that was cheaper to make and people rose such a fuss by writing that it was withdrawn and they contracted with Union Frondenburg and they lent a die so the German company could supply a good looking pedal for the Raleigh cycles.

The original Raleigh pedals were the old school, real deal. Rebuildable with replaceable treads and all pedal parts servicable and greasable and everything. Then they stopped this due to the high cost involved in pedal manufacture. The sintered or bearingless pedal as it was nicknamed..... Well, it was a bearingless pedal!
Then the Union pedal with bearings and these were and are nor rebuildable but they spinn nice with a bit (and I mean, a bit) of oil. It was weird seeing these later day Union pedals. In 1975 I never saw these pedals the older ones and stuff before that but this change escaped me and that';s fine because the treads and size and general appearance stinks. So I never thought I would wax nostalgic for the basic Union pedal because that changed as well.
The bike assembly:
It was a nice experience with everything new, and the oily dust and grease over the metal chrome parts and it protected it wonderfully since 1975. The thing is a time capsule. It is complete with the S3C coaster brake hub which I dislike and will not use. This is a display bike, It won't be ridden. Leave it in the box? Yes, I should have.... but did not. I saved the box.

No r nuts, basic el-cheapo mattress saddle, small seat post, the smallest, small handlebar stem and it is a 22 in frame gents bike.

Lovely green paint, but It is new. Think I'll scan the steer tube and mix up a match and see. Yes, good idea!

Losing my keys and going crazy looking for them turned up all sorts of missing things that were given up for lost and were still missing until they popped out at me. Seemed the gods threw me gifts as I was all buggered and mad and running around looking for those keys. Found the keys after finding 15 other missing items.
The new, old stock, crazy prices Phillips pedal was re-uinted with it's mate completing the lengthy Phillips bike restoration I undertook two years ago. Lost the pedal here in the house. It is all done, the set of real old school Phillips pedals is the icing on the cake so to speak.
The new bike, with it's flawless, new, original decals, flawless fenders, was a joy to handle.
This is just a 1975 Raleigh made Triumph imagine the Humbers, and Rene Herse, Flying Scots, and all the other makes and models all new, wearing their original paint and sporting perfect decals and all gleaming rust and dent free newness. It was all very dazzling and marvelous wasn't it?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    Triumph N.O.S. t's nice for a change posted by Kurt K. on 7/26/2005 at 1:23:44 AM
Chris...I'm bug-eyed, mouth watering, heart racing, and want to know:

You found the Phillips pedals...now where's your digital camera?

Pretty soon we'll start taking up a collection here to buy you a brand new one if we don't see any photos soon ;-)

P.S.: How come the fellows here on the English Roadster group possibly hold the record for the least percentage of new photos posted per year?

We always hear about your spectacular collections and cycles - how about sharing a little bit of vintage Raleigh eye candy too?

Take care...


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Triumph N.O.S. t's nice for a change posted by Bryan on 7/26/2005 at 2:17:20 AM
Speaking of posting photos.....I don't know how to do it on this site. Rather, I see how to post a photo using the optional add a picture feature, but I never see pictures on the discussion board. While I have followed these postings for years, I'm not sure where the photos are. Are they in the photo archive, or can you view them right from the discussion board? Do you have to link to a website that can host the photos? I'm a little challenged with this sort of thing.

--Bryan in CT

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Triumph N.O.S. t's nice for a change posted by kim on 7/26/2005 at 11:38:40 AM
You can post a photo at the end of each message. A "thumbnail" of the photo shows up and you can click on it to enlarge it.

Or you can upload your photos to the Picture Database here. I think that is best because they index the pictures so they can be searched by make, year, style, etc.

They also have that "Readers Rides" section (see the link at the top of this page). You can post a max of 5 pictures there.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Triumph N.O.S. t's nice for a change posted by Kurt K. on 7/26/2005 at 2:19:16 PM
There's three basic parts to posting a photo:

#1: The Photo
#2: The Server
#3: The Web Address

Number #1, of course, is to have the actual photo. Preferably re-sized in any photo editor to a reasonable size, say, no more then 1000 pixels wide (your photo program will tell you this).

The server is essentially the 'hosting service' for the photo - the hosting service essentially hosts your photo online so it can be seen on the WWW. (Alternately, you can post your photos on a photo-hosting website like Webshots, but I feel these services rob you of some freedom to post your photos around).

Finally, your web server will give you a direct web address link to your photo - usually an HTTP:// followed with the server's name "XYZhostinginc", and sometimes followed by a few directory folders "bin/photo/whatever/" and finally at the end, the name of your photo, RaleighRudgeHumberETC.jpg.

The full link would read like this:


Think of it as taking your photo from your home (your computer) to an art gallery (server) which hangs it on the wall to display (web address).

The only final step is to send the link to those you want to share the photo with.

I must honestly say that I dislike this forum's setup for posting pictures, as it slows down the forum considerably - every single photo, even though it's been resized as a thumbnail, is loaded as if it were full size.

I usually post the link in the forum message box like so:


That way, not only does the forum load faster, members can see only the photos they wish to see.


   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Triumph N.O.S. t's nice for a change posted by Kurt K. on 7/27/2005 at 6:03:37 PM
...and as usual, anything relating to photographs falls on deaf ears.


   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Triumph N.O.S. t's nice for a change posted by kim on 7/28/2005 at 12:20:24 PM
Kurt, that was a good tutorial on photos.
OldRoads's implementation of pictures in their discussion areas leaves a little to be desired. But look at the bright side:

- No popup ads
- No registrations
- No 'please donate' buttons all over the place!
- No nagware notices


   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Triumph N.O.S. t's nice for a change posted by Kurt K. on 7/28/2005 at 3:22:50 PM
Very true, Kim.

I must say though that I've become quite fond of the older forum format that Vin uses here - loads fast and is easily searched (I prefer the older search engine).

I might email him sometime soon and suggest that he change the thumbnail picture link to a web hyperlink option.

All the best,


AGE / VALUE:   Saw these and thought of you posted by: Matthew on 7/25/2005 at 7:18:43 PM
Whilst browsing eBay, as one does, I came across these two. The first of which is quite a find, even here in the UK. The colour is wonderful. So many of these bikes were scrapped or ruined, cheap ATB & MTB imports saw off a great deal of them. folks didn't wantr to rdie their Dad's and grandad's bikes when they could have a cheapo mountain bike for a few quid. Most of the cheap mountain bikes have followed their superiors to the heap too. Quality will outlast quantity.

First cycle is Ebay item number 7171801771.

The second pair of bikes are probably about the right money but I guess the unseen cycle is a heap.
Item number 7171301693.

These are nothing to do with me whatsoever. NMA. I don't even know the seller(s).

I know shipping is dear but I guess these would be worth the bother. I also came across a 1948 Raleigh on eBay for sale in Nottingham but forgot to get the number. However it may well be a Lenton sport, have a search.

Trying to keep folks up to date on what is out there. Everything else seems to be a Chopper - each to their own.

Matthew - dodging the rain drops.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rear brakes posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 7/25/2005 at 1:58:38 PM
Been a while since I posted here last. I'm always re-tightening the nut on my rear brake of my '56 Superbe, after a week's worth of riding, it always works loose. This is the older style of brake that accepts the doubled lug ended cable. I'm using modern cables and housings and have gotten around the problem with one of Sheldon's clever little bolt on lugs.
The center bolt on my brake has a groove running down the the threaded portion, as if to accept some kind of toothed washer. I've always assumed it was to accept a flat piece of sheet metal, so when the brake nut was tightened, the sheet metal could be crimped around the nut, thus preventing the nut from loosening.
But I haven't found anything to support my assumption, taken apart or examined countless old doubled-lugged brakes and found nothing of the kind. Last week as I was walking home I spied an ancient women's 3 speed, rusting peacefully in garden, flowers in it's front and rear baskets. Yeah, I examined it's rear brake too. What I saw was a little clip that slid onto the brake bolt before the nut. This little clip had small wings on it and it's purpose was to hold the fender tab in place. Since the bolt has a groove and the clip has a little tooth, it makes it impossible for the bolt to turn, but does this mean that the nut can still loosen up? Anyone have any informtion?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rear brakes posted by Kurt K. on 7/25/2005 at 2:41:48 PM
Well, I hope you bargained the owner to part with the washer from their planter-bike!

Have you tried adding a lockwasher to the mix as well? Maybe a tad of Loctite?


   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Rear brakes posted by Chris on 7/25/2005 at 11:30:36 PM
The nuts never came loose as there was a serrated/toothed washer there as well.
This is the old school, brakes before the English bicycle brakes were cheapened and changed.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Rear brakes posted by Edward in Vancouver on 7/28/2005 at 1:15:50 PM
That's what I'm trying to figure out, what was the purpose of the groove in the main bolt? All my "detective work" shows that there was no toothed washer washer to hold the final nut in place. If there is one I don't know what shape or form it takes. Caliper brakes were not as popular before the '40's, and all brakes I have examined were post WWII. I can only assume that the groove is there to secure a little clip that holds the fender tab securely.

Does anyone hve any info or photos?

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Rear brakes posted by Edward in Vancouver on 7/28/2005 at 1:16:00 PM
That's what I'm trying to figure out, what was the purpose of the groove in the main bolt? All my "detective work" shows that there was no toothed washer washer to hold the final nut in place. If there is one I don't know what shape or form it takes. Caliper brakes were not as popular before the '40's, and all brakes I have examined were post WWII. I can only assume that the groove is there to secure a little clip that holds the fender tab securely.

Does anyone hve any info or photos?

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   3-speed pulley wheel assembly posted by: Daniel on 7/25/2005 at 2:07:21 AM
Is there any advantage in placing the pulley wheel assembly for a 3-speed hub gear at the top of the seat tube as opposed to placing it on the top tube near the seat post? I think the pulley assembly comes in two sizes - a 1 inch diameter for a top tube and a 1 1/8 inch diameter for the seat tube.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   3-speed pulley wheel assembly posted by Kurt K. on 7/30/2005 at 12:10:49 AM
No advantage that I can think of, except that the lower cable routing would probably standardize the cable length, as frame size would not be an issue when run via the down tube. Then again, you could simply move the fulcrum clamp farther foward or backwards on the tube...

The pulley assembly came in only one size - 1". Mounted on top or bottom, they were always affixed to the seat post, so size never changed.

The fulcrum clamp, however, came in both 1" and 1 1/8" sizes for both top tube & down tube routing, respectively.

Take care,