I was wondering if there was anyone out there who can repair/rebuild Sturmey Archer hubs. Or if anyone knows someone that i can send it to, to get fixed. I will ship anywhere in the US.
The hub has numerous problems and i feel it should just be rebuilt.
Other options are to get another hub from the same year ('68). If anyone has one already laced in a 20" wheel please let me know.
P.S. I have a pic posted on this site of the hub and the bike it belongs to if anywants to see.
| Call around to some local shops; older ones especially. Someone can probably repair your hub. If you're feeling mechanically competent, do it yourself. There are a lot of links to SA repair info (www.sheldonbrown.com and Tony Hadland's www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/samaintind.htm)|
www.harriscyclery.com and www.permaco.com carry small parts you may need if you overhaul the hub yourself (springs, clutch, pawls most likely). Try taking apart a junk hub and see for yourself that it's not impossible. But first make sure the shifter and bearings are adjusted properly. That's the main cause of shifting problems. Good luck.
| Definately download the stuff on Hadland's site. Included are PRECISE, DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS on dismanteling the hub, troubleshooting, repairing, and re-assembeling the hub. The AW was/is the most popular S/A hub built, and spare parts can always be gotten by stripping old "donar" hubs or even asking for surplus spare parts fom older bike stores.|
| I can rebuild this in one short evening and ship it back. I have been rebuilding hubs like yours for about 25 years. I have folding bicycles that use 20" rims and just built 2 SA AW with 20" rim wheels from recycled bicycle parts. Give me a EMAIL I live in NY state. Ed |
| hi all, |
i recently purchased a 69 hercules 3spd. i have yet to get the hub to shift into 1st gear. i can hear the difference between 2nd and 3rd by spinning the wheel and then pulling the indicator chain slowly... but can't seem to get 1st (the throw seems so short between 1 and 2 - the cable hardly moves).
Any suggestions for getting this sorted out?
| failed to mention - it is an SA AW 3spd hub. recently added a few drops of oil. thanks for any help!|
| Just take a look at the post right above yours - everything you need to know on the AW.|
| It was propably late in '99 that I started on my Superbe project, rebuilding a very beat-up silver spray-painted '54 Superbe. I figured in '02 that I was finshed, save for one detail--the full chaincase. Mind you the bike had orginaly come with a hockey-stick type guard, but I had always lusted after the full type deal, however these are very rare to come by. In any case I took pains to find the right colour of paint for my bike, a British racing green, which came in a powder coating. I didn't think much of it at the time, but a few years later when I came across my first piece of the chain case, the main part, somewhere at the back of my mind I knew I was in trouble. Over the next two years I managed to pick up the remaining parts. There are some small, but definate differences between various models and years (Hercules, Rudge, Raleigh) and the elbow piece fit the main body, but did not match perfectly. The main body had threaded tabs for two anchoring screws for the elbow whereas the elbow had only one; the main body had a lip running around the whole circumference, whereas the elbow did not. With alot of trial and error, blow-torch and solder, and a Dremel (yes solder can be shaped and filed...)I got it to match. But I knew I was in trouble, powder coating must be baked at temperatures over 350 F and solder melts well below this. Not just my handiwork, the pieces were orginally soldered together at the factory as well. So now the completed but un-painted case sat in a cupboard for a few years until I could figure out what to do, wasn't going to re-paint the bike to match the case. This spring my next-door neighbor replaced the eavestroughing on his house. I noticed the workers using spray-cans to touch up the eaves troughing and getting a perfect matching colour. I pilfered one of the empty cans and jotted down the address of the company. The company wasn't too far away and they specialized in automotive paints, colour matches, and packaging bulk paint in spray cans. $50.00 got me a gallon of perfectly matched Sikkens paint, some of it packaged into three spray cans. Now I was in business.|
But I'm still fiddling about. I've experimented with chain length and half-links and got rid of some of the noise caused by chain-slap. Mounted and remounted and tweaked the elbow and back cover plates to get rid of some of the grating, replaced the b.b spindle with a longer one so the chainring would not scrape over the bolt that holds the main piece to the chain stay. But I'm still getting the occasional scrape when I go over a bump or pedal in an upright position. I've though about taking off the case and shooting a can of stone guard paint in the inside of the case, but don't know if this is worth the trouble. Any suggetions?
| What a labor of love!! Where you started with a quest, I started by serindipitously finding a mint chaincase ... even had the Superbe lettering. My problem was in non-destructively fabricating mounting brackets since my Superbe did not have the tapped hole in the right chainstay. I fashioned the bracket out of an aluminum half-clamp (presumably for conduit), tapped a hole, and was able to mount it inconspicuously using the sidestand mounting bolt. When I read your account of the chainwheel hitting the bolt that fastened to the chainstay, it all seemed so familiar. My solution was to grind down the head of a promising machine screw. It was close. No interferences or noises so far. I attribute this to the fact that I used bothe of the forward "hockey stick" brazed-on mounting lugs to secure the front of the chaincase via riveted-on tabs. This gave a very rigid attachment. Good luck with yours. Once I purchase a digital camera, I'll upload some pictures.|
Dick in FL
| Hi Edward,|
You may not have all the bits! - Particularly important is the nut that holds the chaincase near the back hub. It is essentially a hex nut with an approx. 6 cm x 1 cm x 3mm plate attached that spreads the load / surface area so that the case doesn't pivot as much over bumps.
| Nat, is there any way I could get a photo or a sketch of this? I'm pretty handy with a blow torch and an old biscuit tin....|
| okay - give me a week or so & I'll post some pixs|
| I have a Bampton No 104B-2 3 speed hub made in England. I just cut it out of a Schwinn 36H 26 x 1 1/4 (EA1) rim. I think it may be from the 50S. The hub has thread off left hand ball race and a driver and gear that is one casting. This looks like it will be parts interchangable with SA AW hubs. Does any one know what years they were produced? I also have a Hercules hub that could be its twin. Ed|
| Update: Yes, this is Sturmey Archer compatible. The cones were still in good shape. I laced it up and it ran well. Ed|
| The Sturmey - Archer A.W. Three speed. The bread and butter hub. Start there. Now, off- shoot copies of the Sturmey- Archer were:|
Brampton Fittings made a: B- type Four
hub only that was their silly code for their three speed copy of the Sturmey- Archer three speed. They did not make any four speed copies. They made their own shifter as well.
Then there was Hercules Cycle and Motor. A large cycle company that was later drawn into Raleigh in a merger. Hercules was large and interesting in and of themselves. They made a Sturmey- Archer A.W.copy also. Theirs had the all hardened metal machined parts especially their copy of the Sturmey- Archer threaded driver piece. They continued that long after Sturmey- Archer themselves went to a diferent design with a three lugged clip and a metal circlip. The cones in the Hercules and Brampton hubs are better, thicker, harder steel. The original Sturmey- Archer hubs and the cones too, also oddly as it turns out are the cheapers hubs. The other two companies did not cheapen their copies of the original company's product.
The basic three speed hubs to have, if you want a Sturmey- Archer 3 speed is the Hercules, or Brampton marked hubs.
The quality is better.
Sturmey- Archer made a wide range of hubs some with alloy hub shells. They made four speed hubs and even a 3 speed fixed gear hub called an A.S.C.
Most all of it is collectable.
Other copies of the Sturmey- Archer hub and these were out of patent clones was: Steyr or Steyr- Daimler Puch of Graz, Austria.
They copied the Sturmey- Archer 3 speed A.W. as well.
There is nothing wrong with the old Sturmey- Archer hubs. Their quality was/ is acceptable but the more long lasting hub innards are the Hercules, and Brampton branded hubs. You never see these offered for sale and only in the occaisonal old bike and in used condition.
All the parts are interchangable as this is still the same make and model hub.
Another currious thing is the B.S.A. brand three speed. Try finding one of those! Impossible. Well.... very difficult.
Further reading on this is to be found in Tony Hadland's The Sturmey- Archer Story.
Myself, I am looking for B.S.A. hubs and their shifters. Hercules hubs, Brampton also. I stay away from Steyr because they look cheaper in some way to me. Nothing wrong with the Steyr hubs at all. That's just my preference.
I still swing back to Sturmey Archer hubs just the old, old ones before oh, 1957 or so.
Really the place to be was with Sturmey- Archer because of the wonderful range of other hubs. Cross this study into hubs with Sheldon Brown's work on old British bicycles and go buy the book The Dancing Chain, History and developement of the derailer bicycle.
The Hercules made copies of the Sturmey- Archer had an improved indicator chain nut that made it easier to adjust the thing by looking through the nut because of a little window in the nut. Sturmey- Archer had a round window, Hercules had a long rectangular shaped one.
Steel hardening is better with the old school Hercules and Brampton hubs . Perople complain of stripped Sturmey- Archer axle nuts. Not a wide and often heard complaint but it does happen.
| Other copies or interesting changes made by others was the Sears three speed hub. This is also a Sturmey- Archer hub but with a different hub shell and shifter.|
Then there is the J.C. Higgans hub also with a different hub shell. They had ribbed ridges in the hub shell.
Did J.C. Higgans have their own shifter as well? I am not certain.
| When the Sturmey- Archer A.W. hub was withdrawn for a little while they brought out the S.W. three speed and Brampton and Hercules copied that as well.|
Then Sturmey- Archer went back to the A.W. and that went on and is still with us.
| I have a Sears hub shell that I put an S5/2 into. Says it was made in Austria, probably Sachs? Also have the "egg-shaped" three-speed shifter, mighty unusual looking, but doesn't seem to work as well as the S-A ones.|
| As a collector and connousour of Sturmey-Archer, it really did a number on me to see the Sun Tour 3 speed hub with their logo on the outer hub shell. I noticed something different and immediately opened it up to look and it had re-designed with different parts inside.|
That was surprising to me.
I wonder how that Sun Tour hub compares with the new Sun Race made Sturmey-Archer 3 speed A.W. 'S.
I have not compared them yet.
| Sturmey Archer made the Sun Tour 3 speed but had re-designed their long standing A.W. three speed first. They did this for Sun Tour.The Sun Tour was not another A.W. hub inside.|
Question.What happened to Hercules, and Brampton's tooling that made the A.W. copies?
Where else was the factory tooling that made the Sturmey- Archer copies of the A.W.
Birmingham- Brampton Fittings
Graz, Austria -Steyr
Hercules was in Birmingham, England also.
The spare parts and new/old stock hubs and bits that I want are labeled Hercules and Brampton.
As I dig up more info I'll share it here.
| >Perople complain of stripped Sturmey- Archer axle nuts. Not a wide and often heard complaint but it does happen. |
Not a often heard complaint...unless you happen to be around a Sturmey or Raleigh mechanics' shop now and then!
I've got the pop-top of a spray paint can here in my bedroom, filled with every single Sturmey-Archer nut that didn't want to come around to my way of thinking. There's about nine in that can - hear that Chris? Nine. I don't change my tyres every day either.
It's a common enough problem - I've even been succesful in stripping one (and only one) right hand indicator nut as well, but mind you - I had cut it down to look like a left hand nut.
Guess the extra threads of the right hand nut help to keep it from stripping.
| I Thank you for the feedback on this subject. My favorite maker of SA AW style hub is Sears Made in Austria. I have cleaned up a few and never a worn out bearing. I have a Steyr branded bicycle that has a Cool Steyr shifter in the shape of a mountian range. I wish I could figure out how to share some photos. Ed |
| Since a couple of days I am the proud owner of a Hercules.|
Although the bike is painted over it is in a pretty good
and original condition.
I bought it on internet and it's the first i ever saw in
Holland ( most hercules bikes are from Germany and most of
it is rubbish )
My bike is equippet with the hercules hub and i wonder if
anyone can tell me how old the bike is.
On the hub is the following text : A typ O Hercules 3 speed.
There's also a hercules shifter and it doesn't look like
S.A. at all.
I hope someone has all the answers and if it's possible
pictures of hercules bicycles.
| Hi, I'm searching for a generator for my Raleigh Sports. I've been unable to locate a 36 hole dynohub kit for any reasonable price and have been unable to locate a lucas pathfinder kit on ebay. Anyone know of other reputable generator kits that feature the vintage style silver chrome ball/bullet light common on the old Brit roadsters as well as a tail light? I'm looking for a proper period looking light kit that isn't killer in cost. (Tire generators accepted as well as hub).|
| It would also be a plus if the light could mount to the Raleigh Heron lamp bracket that is stock on the Sports, though that is not entirely necessary.|
| Why not use a 32-hole hub? Bikes with complete lighting setups are not hard to find (and they usually have 32-spoke wheels). Use the 36-hole, when you find it, on your lightweight commuting bike.|
| Look at my auction on ebay, look at seller OLDMANBIKE. I have a working English made generator. Ed |
| I believe Mike's roster consists of a '74 Sports and a '78 DL-1. Both of these bikes run 36 in front.|
| Mike...I don't know what you want to pay but I have an NIB Lucas Pathfinder kit that I would like $50 plus shipping. E-mail if you want it...or anyone else for that matter.|
| Indeed, both bikes are 36s. The DL-1 is all set but the Sports needs a generator I believe. I am most likely using that one at school and the AA battery powered lamp in there now is basically a weak flashlight. I figure it's time to upgrade but keep the proper look.|
| If anyone is interested in a non-original headlight that looks appropriate and isn't 3rd world crap, the AXA light used on the Pashley roadster works well and could be ordered from North Road bicycles, I think it works as well as the ugly Busch und Müller lamp. Not a bad idea if you are going to be using the bike as daily transportation but don't want to ugly it up with something too modern. It's such a nice lamp I'm going to put one on my Quickbeam I'm turning into a "modern Lenton tourist." |
| If you want period appropriate lights you could try peter paine, oldcyclebits.co.uk or oldbiketrader.co.uk, I've ordered NOS and used lights and one complete Raleigh Clubman appropriate dynohub and light set including fork mount from the two shops, probably a bit much for an everyday bike but if you want it original they can find just about anything and they always throw in spare lamp lenses. |