AGE / VALUE:   Please don't let me see this again! posted by: Chris on 11/25/2006 at 1:52:19 PM
E- bay item # 120057265532 Raleigh bicycle crank

If those cotter pins are just too scarry for you and you just have to list that crankset immediately I guess you could do what this seller has done.
While you are looking at this picture, I will step out for a second and pour myself a couple of double's of whatever is in that bottle there behind the bar!

Now, after feeling woozy with the room spinning I fall down the stairwell and will be checking e- bay from the lap top in my hospital bed.

Poor Raleigh never had a chance!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Please don't let me see this again! posted by Bryant on 11/26/2006 at 2:17:20 PM
Someone should be shot!!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Please don't let me see this again! posted by Matthew on 11/27/2006 at 3:17:11 PM
Could this be from the same school of thought as 'Dan' the RSW vendor?

Matthew - mad mad world

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Please don't let me see this again! posted by David on 11/28/2006 at 1:22:53 PM
Relax. The frame had probably been run over already.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Please don't let me see this again! posted by David on 11/28/2006 at 1:22:55 PM
Relax. The frame had probably been run over already.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Windshield wiper tool at Advance Auto may be potential crank cotter remover? posted by: Kurt K. on 11/24/2006 at 2:01:21 PM
>>>I had originally posted this on Bikeforums, but figured I'd post this here, seeing that us roadster fans run into cotterless cranks more often then the vintage lightweight group <<<

Was looking for some replacement recliner handles for the Dodge van at Advance Auto yesterday, when I happened to note an interesting tool on the rack.

The tool was labled as being a windsheld wiper removal tool - and is supposed to push some sort of pin in the wiper out to aid removal. None of the vehicles which I own have wipers that would require this tool, but the design of the tool instantly caught my attention, as it is, without a question, designed in the same fashion as a cotter press to remove stubborn cotters from cottered cranks.

The only flaws I saw in the tool for the cotter job was the thin design of the lower "platform" tabs, which would essentially be receiving considerable pressure when torquing down the cotter, and might ultimately bend and break when force is applied; and the plastic top handle, which I'm sure most folks here would remove and replace with some sort of hex nut - possibly replace the whole threaded piece with a bolt of the same size?

Anyway, I didn't have $11.98 to spend on the tool to find out if it would work, and I didn't have a camera on hand, but I designed a 3D rendering of it which is pretty accurate to the actual tool (save for the cheap, rough steel finish of the actual tool), and is shown below. Couldn't find a trace of this tool available online.

Of course, due to the thin tabs on the bottom, one will probably ruin 6 of them trying to extract a pin (or maybe it'd work, who knows?), only to realize they could have purchased Mark Stonich's superior, $60 press made for the task, but I thought I'd mention it here anyway, if someone here on a budget wanted to try it out.

Take care,



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Windshield wiper tool at Advance Auto may be potential crank cotter remover? posted by Ed on 12/1/2006 at 7:25:09 PM
I use an automotive tie rod end press that works most of the time. This pushes about 2 ton to force out the pin. I like the pipe and brass rod punch better. I made up a stand using 3/4 gas pipe and floor flanges. The brass punch is an old valve stem. This does less damage to chrome parts. A well hit blow and plenty of WD-40 is my way. Ed

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   decals posted by: Spike on 11/20/2006 at 2:19:35 PM
Hello,I'm sprucing up my 66 womens chrome Raleigh Sports.
I'm wondering the best place to get the best water tranfer decals.The bike is in nice original condition with a very nice B72 saddle.Itis missing the pump. I'm wondering if it would be chromed steel or polished aluminum??Also thinking of puting white walls on it.
It probably came with black walls.Any opinions?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   decals posted by David on 11/20/2006 at 4:36:12 PM
I wouldn't worry about decals. It's original, right? Wax it and ride. I sold some 64-65 Sports a while ago that had original whitewalls. A chrome bike would look very cool with WWs.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   decals posted by Spike on 11/20/2006 at 5:40:37 PM
Thanks for the reply,
It is a nice original bike. I just wish the Made in Englad and rear fender decals were better.
It is interesting the Down tube decal appears to have ripped when installed I am inclined to leave it.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   decals posted by Ed on 11/21/2006 at 7:43:48 PM
Hi Spike. I saw a cool chrome folding bicycle today at the post office. I was shipping some chrome fenders to a customer. I think chrome is the right look. Have you come across any more folding bicycles you want to part with? I could use 4 more! Ed

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: decals posted by Neal on 11/22/2006 at 9:45:50 PM
Mike Swantak at VeloGraphic ( created a set of decals for my '66 chrome Sports. Seems that chrome finish is quite tough on the original transfers. For a pump, I have a cheapo Pyramid-brand chromed steel replacement pump. My bike came with what was probably the original pump, but that was the most rusted surface of all. Finally, for tires I went with Schwalbe whitewalls.



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   decals posted by Mark on 11/25/2006 at 3:34:22 AM
I thought you said it was a women's model. That's a really nice ride you've got there. Is it a 19.5 or 21 inch frame?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   decals posted by Spike on 11/25/2006 at 10:58:35 AM
It is a womens 19 1/2 in frame.
Neal, I did find a new Pyramid pump I got about a year ago.Looks and fits nice.I don't suppose you have a "Made in England and a rear fender decal left over?
I'm going to try to get the site again but had trouble
the few minutes I tried the other day.
Thanks everyone for your help.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: decals posted by Neal on 11/26/2006 at 7:12:36 PM
Spike, this eBay seller regularly posts Raleigh decals:


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   decals posted by Pete on 12/5/2006 at 5:19:05 PM
I recently had to repaint my mudguards, have a look at my pic to see the decals on them as I have 2 spare.Sorry about the quality the cam was playing up.


AGE / VALUE:   A very good example of a terrible, hideous re-chrome job posted by: Chris on 11/20/2006 at 8:38:59 AM
Take a look at item # 230054506405 (described as:) Raleigh Lamp Bracket original re- chrome New Hudson B.S.A.

This is one of the worst, poorly done re- chrome jobs I have seen in awhile. Yuck! Yes, the bracket is original these stopped about 1948. This is one of the older, seldom seen brackets- but what was done to it is hideous.

You are better off with original, used than to do this. Or search about and be patient and find a decent or n.o.s. part. First off, the patina is now gone. Raleigh and the other makers used a chrome plating process that was light years ahead in quality. They had a silver-ish/ chrome combination that they used and you even see it on things like this. A lamp bracket.

If the readers here will look at their 1930's thru mid 1950's bright plated wheel rim parts on their bikes they will understand. British Chrome was and still is, different that what we see in the U.S.A.
Still, it is possible that this re- chrome job was done in England anyways as things have gone to heck.
All the pitting, and chrome in the grooves of the letters on the other brackets this seller is offering? Unacceptable.
What? Are we going to re-plate all the other bright plated parts in this same hideous fashion and have it all match?

Otherwise, Why bother at all?

I see a lot of this in the vintage bicycle "restoration" game. I regurarly see Schwinn parts and other parts maimed like this. So called "metal finishing" outfits that offer these parts to collectors at the swap meets.

This is exactly why, exactly why I have parts I will never take to have re- finished or chrome plated. I will not pick up my stuff and see it looking like this. Not enough prep work was done. They had to hurry and get that bike done and shipped. Or hurried up with the parts and somebody stood over and yelled at the worker to hurry up and quality suffered. I see this and believe that this should be returned for a refund. Don't believe that they can re do it for you and correct it because if so , it never would have happened in the first place.
Did they loose your parts in the dip tank? This is another thing that happens all the time. Example of one phone call" "Hi! You the bike collector? Do you do Schwinn's? GREAT! Do you have one of these? We lost a customer's do- hicky in the tank and can't find it and well... Do you have another you can sell us?"
This happens a lot. Sorry, but I went thru too much and still do go thru too much to have this happen to me. I do not understand why the words: New Hudson (and) BSA are in the title heading of this listing because this part did not go on any other bikes except the actual Raleigh branded bikes.

Can you differenciate (tell the difference between) powder coat and lacquer and between enamel and powder coat?
I ask because you can specify enamel to the painter but you stand a good chance getting powder coat on your bike anyways. This happens and you'll hear something like: Powder coat is better anyways. It is not.

I see vintage cars restored and you would never, never see this kind of work on a classic car bumper. I see awesome work on motorcycle restoration as well. But, when you come to restore a bicycle the average person falls into this other world- type syndrome of certain chrome shops that turn out this type of work as we see on these lamp brackets. I love the way these brackets and the other parts look or I should say that I love these when they look proper as the makers originally intended. If you went back to the factory and showed the workers in the 1930's or 1950's these brackets. They would have a fit! They'd be hiding these for fear of losing their jobs. They'd be running into the chrome plating department and into the house lab and calling up suppliers and everything would gring to a halt to fix it before a supervisor saw this. You can imagine! Heads would roll if this kind of quality started to appear. I am familiar with Raleigh quality all the way through their history and I saw things change and I bought one of the very last 28 inch Raleigh's to come out of Nottingham and NEVER have I ever seen such terrible chrome as on this re- done lamp bracket. This is so bad it is below the worst chrome that any bike maker ever turned out even near the end.

I am confident I will see a turnaround and a new beginning with original paints and finishes exactly matched where you will not be able to tell the difference between old, N.O.S. and restored/renewed. We are not there yet, because I see too much of this low calibre examples of work.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   A very good example of a terrible, hideous re-chrome job posted by Chris on 11/20/2006 at 9:31:11 AM
There were many different types of finishes. Blue steel, black japanning, and other types. It is all lost and all we see is this cheap bright/ flash chrome over base steel that is not re- finished prior to the "treatment"

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   A very good example of a terrible, hideous re-chrome job posted by Matthew on 11/20/2006 at 12:21:34 PM
Hi Folks,

This bracket must have been as rough as guts before it was chromed. It should have been brassed before chroming. My guess is that is was caustic stripped and thrown somewhere near to a chrome tank. It really is quite bad. Chris's standards are high and I don't always agree with them or meet them. I'd sooner see rough old originals flying along than perfection mounted on a wall. But this is awful and wouldn't enhance any machine. Perhaps it could be sold to go with the bent forked RSW?

Matthew - I can't give anything but rant, maybe?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   A very good example of a terrible, hideous re-chrome job posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 11/21/2006 at 3:20:23 AM
Hmmm... it is somewhat funky for certain. And I'm a bit taken aback that cylcles of yesteryear would take that approach for certain.

There's re-chroming... and there's RE-CHROMING... on process is quick, down and dirty. The other... tedious and costly. I guess we know what approach was used here, eh?

Yet it was snapped up with buy-it-now.... hmmmm?


Larry "Boneman" Bone

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   A very good example of a terrible, hideous re-chrome job posted by Chris on 11/21/2006 at 4:17:57 AM
Maybe somebody read my post. I did say that this was an earlier style lamp bracket. Wherever this bracket is, or will be, it will never look right on the bike and will stand out like a sore thumb against all the other bright plated parts on the bike. I love the Hercules reflector, it's kinda rare and to my relief it was not "restored"

   RE:AGE / VALUE: A very good example of a terrible, hideous re-chrome job posted by sam on 11/21/2006 at 8:52:34 AM
This is the very reason I now paint(japan)most of my nickle parts.The headset clip on the 36 Russ tandem was nickel originally---but not much wasn't pitted as this bracket was just the nickel was gone---but a replate would have removed the "Chater Lea" name and part numbers on it.The British Hub drums also needed a replate--the originals were plated them the flang riveted on---no way I'm taking those apart.but painting all the chrome black(Japanning)keeps the bike looking as a compleat set,not a pile of parts.
OK so some day a 100 years from now a restorer can strip off the paint and do it correctly--but till then the paint will protect the metal while we ride it---sam

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Can You I.D. This Leather Saddle? posted by: Ron on 11/20/2006 at 7:50:00 AM
Hi all...couldn't resist buying this leather saddle from the swapmeet today. I'm familiar with the Brooks brand--I have 2 B17s--but I have no idea what this brand is. The logo says "MS" in the center. I especially like the holes at the bottom...I'm guessing it's used for lacing?

Would any of you gurus know what the "MS" stands for? Also age and country of origin? Any help would be appreciated!

A couple of photos here: