| A lady I know owns a yellow Raleigh Sports. I worked on it and want to buy it from her. It's a good bet I'll be told No, that she wants to keep it. I'm going to ask anyways.|
These are very rare only made for a year or two and these were later models like back in the late 70's. Lemon yellow not gold and she said that she had prop companies wanting to use it and that's why it won't be sold. Condition was ok, not stellar, it's a rider but still bright yellow.
So now I toss and turn and want a lemon yellow Raleigh Sports for no good reason other than the color. It's a craving and when I get a bike craving it gets out of hand usually. I have better bikes, lighter and more rare but I can't get this color out of my mind.
I never see a lemon yellow one on e- bay and I know she's going to say no. I know of no other yellow bikes so this will be a iron in the fire for some time, I guess.
The Bronze green and black are common, the silver ones just icky they did a blue/ bronze green version and I have owned every color except the yellow one.
| I con't say I've ever seen a yellow Sport unless I mistoke it for a Schwinn Collegiate. I apree the silver is kind of icky but I'd sure take a silver Sport because it was available in the 19.5" mens frame. I don't understand why Raleigh didn't offer that size in other colors in the late models. I hope this goes well for you.|
| I have a ladies yellow sports. It's well worn but still vary ridable. I haven't looked at it in months and I don't remember the year. It's stored up over head in my garage. I will take a look and get the date off the hub in a day or so and get back to you. The bike is in Massachusetts.|
| How often do any of us ever see a Yellow Raleigh Sports? Not the gold ones but the bright yellow ones? Not too often and thats why I want one!|
My mother gave me her 1974 Raleigh Sprite that she purchased in in Germany new. She has not ridden it in some years, so I took it to be serviced and was told that there was a crack in the frame and they (nor it seems, anyone else around here) would/could not repair it. I've been trying to find a bike welder but no luck.
I am in Chapel Hill, NC and would like to find a good, reputable place - it doesn't have to be local. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
A side note: I cart around my young son during the day on our errands. Assuming the crack is fixed, is there any sort of safety concern about putting a child's bike seat on the back of the Raleigh? Or any other concerns about the bike or crack that I should be aware of?
I'm also a little skeptical about getting it serviced at local shops - is the average bike shop usually able to repair/maintain a bike of this age? I'm a mother and I have NO TIME to do any of the work on it, so I'm hoping someone can honestly tell me what it needs.
| A bike like that wouldn't be worth repairing. I would sell the components on ebay and apply the proceeds toward a new bike.|
| Speaking from an insurance background, welding a bicycle frame where you might be toting a child is not looked upon favorably by the industry, the welder nor the parent. The previous advice makes sense "lose" the frame and part out the components. Wise decision by all parties concerned especially you and your child.|
| Hi Maeve,|
Now that the doom mongers have finished let's have a voice of reason here. Depending on whereabouts the frame is cracked and it may be cracked but I'd seek a second opinion. Find an engineering company near you which does brazing (sometimes called hard soldering) or look for a custom motorcycle builder (or racing / mountain bike builder) the sort of chap who builds choppers and hogs etc. Ask the company to have a look at the crack and get them to be the judge of whether a good and sound repair can be made. If they are happy to do the repair then trust them to do a good job. The frame does not need welding, either arc, MIG or TIG, that's not how it was built. Once repaired properly the frame will be as strong as the original if not stronger.
Ralph might sell the parts on eBay but you don't have time to strip the bike to its components. Paul might not insure you but life with no risks is no life at all. If you were my wife with any of my three children on board I would trust you all on a bicycle with a frame repaired by a competent engineer.
On a safety note the age length and nature of the crack need investigating by the repairer in order to tell whether the repair is viable.
Failing all this don't buy a mountain bike, look around for a good secondhand Raleigh of a similar style and keep Mum's bike for spare parts.
Matthew - maintain, repair, sustain.
| Maeve, where is this crack/break in the frame located? Before jumping on any conclusions (although I highly suggest you follow Matthew's advice), this is one of the most important things to know.|
| I recommend that the bike be parted out and that you find another frame and really, another bike.|
Why chance getting yourself hurt and with a baby seat? I would definitly retire this frame.
Find another bike. The Raleigh Sprite is lower on the totem pole so no terrible loss. You can find another Raleigh Sprite. You and the child are priceless, worth INFINITELY MORE than a bike frame.
I bought my daughter's mother a $29,000.00 Chrysler mini - van. Paid Cash. She had this 11 year old car, her attitude and pride and a lot of flaws I did not see in time. When everybody tells me I was crazy to buy her a new van I want to agree with them but then I think of a baby that needs reliable transportation and her smile and her saying words like "Tapioca" at the dinner table and it is ok. I'm at peace with the purchase dispite going through some of the worst days of my life.
I remember the scars on my bike mechanic's skull from where bicycle frames broke on him and welding the bike worrys me.
Why weld it? Is it money? or are you trying to hold onto a thing for sentimential reasons?
Anybody have a ladies Raleigh Sprite available?
| When I was a kid you could still take your broked bike down to the blacksmiths and he'd weld it up for ya--cost a quarter or so.Go by the filling station fix your own flats for a nickle and air was always free.Drink outa the old rubber hose too!Western Auto carried parts if needed.But that was Small Town Texas 1960s.---sam(today ya just buy new)|
| Thanks for all the input, it was immensely helpful. I'll find another bike to put the boy on but I'm going to find a welder who may or may not fix it. I'm a real fanatic about the bike, even if it just sits in the garage.|
I have no idea where the crack is, they just told me it had one. I can't even find it.
| Is the Raleigh Sprite that was sold to the German market any different than the ones we see here in the U.S.A.?|
It sounds like she's sentimental about this bike. I'm glad another bike will be carrying the child.
| Now I'm getting rattled.|
WELD? WELD? WELD? NO.
You are all getting it wrong. A 1970's sprite is not welded at all. It is brazed. The two processes are not the same.
I respect your wishes to ride another machine with your son but also to get the sprite mended. Please don't ask anyone to weld it ask them to braze it. A good welder may not be able to braze.
Thanks for listening.
Matthew - not too mad
PS thanks for your support Kurt.
| I hate to add yet another message to this already-too-long thread, but here goes anyway:|
Doesn't anybody have a spare Sprite frame hanging around? I have sent a number of them to the scrap heap after harvesting the useable component parts; they just aren't all that desirable. I have a yellow men's Sprite, complete but quite rusty, that I would happily give away. Maeve, what color is your mother's bike and is it a lady's model (I assume it is)? I may also have a white lady's Sprite that I could be persuaded to part with. These bikes are quite common and worth very little, so it would be simple enough to find a good used frame, probably even in the same color and type as your old one, and put your components on it. Then it would still be "your" bike, with just one new part: the frame.
I would recommend against welding or even brazing up a cracked frame. But it is certainly rare for a Raleigh frame to crack, isn't it? I recall many broken Columbias and Huffys but the British ones tended to be made a lot better.
| After a long dry spell, I had a find today at the local flea market. I found a Hercules Royal Prince in very good shape. The bike was built prior to being taken over by Raleigh since it has a Hercules 3 speed hub and a Hercules gear changer. The brake cables are the kind that have knobs on the caliper side that you fit into a holder rather than feeding the cable through a screw clamp. It came with a generator (the kind that runs on the rear tire, not a hub generator) and front and rear light. Front light still works, rear doesn't. I'd like to know how to find the born on date for the bike. I believe it is at least in the late 1950's since Raleigh took them over in the early sixties. Anyone know where I can look?? Thanks|
| I love this model Hercules bike. Hercules ruled the bicycle world back in their heyday in the 30's but I think your guess that it's from the 1950's may be more accurate. Wish I found one myself as I love these. It's hard to say with pinning a date on it because the Hercules hubs did not have dates stamped on them like a Sturmey- Archer hub. Hercules used weird codes on them like "B- type four" even though it is a three speed. These hubs are identical to the Sturmey- Archer A.W. hub and the parts even interchange.|
If you have any other questions please visit us again.
| If it is any help at all. The aluminium 'H' head badge was introduced in 1946 and withdrawn sometime later. Prior to this the headbadge was a brass circular pressing then there were at least two waterslide transfers which followed the ally 'H'. The address on the headbadge helps too.|
Matthew - heads you win.
| Ironically, the brake cables you describe are actually Raleigh pattern brakes. They were knocked off by other manufacturers, obviously.|
I have an early 50's Hercules club bike with the same brakes.
| It sounds like you did well. On my last thrift store foray I only found the usual purple kiddie bikes and girls mtbs. I'm stil hoping and saving for the day when the right Raleigh appears.|
| I Have a Hercules Royal Prince 3 Speed. It has the Metal Head Badge on the front, Which would make me think it is around a 1946 it is in great condition, It looks to be all original. I would like to know the Value of this Bike. I can send a Picture if you like. Bob|
| Been a while since I posted here last, still ride when I find the time, but I haven't been building anything or restoring aything for a while.|
Very dreary here on the we(s)t coast, raining for the last week steadily, so when I looked out the window this morning and saw sun, I grabbed my steed and headed out. Should have noticed that last night's rain puddles had a crust on them, should have noticed my breath misting in the air and put two and tow together.
Headed out from the garage, down the street and the next thing I knew I was on my butt, with my bike skidding alongside of me. Picked myself up and looked for damage: Chainwheel bent a bit, knocking into the chaincase, but nothing a rubber mallet couldn't handle, gear cable all loose, and upon further inspection I knew I was in for a treat. The gear chain was mashed up, right where it enters into the hollow nut. Figures, besides the pedal, it's the next thing that protrudes from the frame. I could bend it back and straighten it out, but one sid of the little chain was badly mangled, and while it functioned allright now, I knew it was only a matter of time before the chain fatigues and fails. For an AW this wouldn't be a big deal, I could just pull another chain from my stash and screw it in, but this hub was an FG. To replace the chain and rod,(assuming I have a replacement...) the whole hub has to be torn apart and the delicate piece that attaches to the chain rod and the adjustment rod on the other side had to be done v-e-r-y c-a-r-efu-l-l-y.
F series chain rods with complete chains are very hard to come by, matter of fact, I cobbled this assembly together froma broken rod and bits of scavenged AW chains. Works well, this assembly was over 3 years old, no problems with it (other than wrecking it this morning..) and the FG puts a lot more tension on the gear cable than AW's.
It's just now that I have (1) pull the chaincase elbow and back plates off, (2)disconnect the Dyno wiring, then yank the wheel off and then, then, tear the whole hub apart, then cobble together a new chain and rod assembly. Then re-assemble, rememebering the crucial cone adjustment while trying to line up the dyno's fixing screws so they're not hidden beind the drop out. (Sigh).... A rainy saturday job,...plenty of rainy saturdays though. While I'm at it, might as well replace those cheap0 gumwalls with Schwalbe whitewalls, replace the clutch spring, since the shifting is a bit slugish, and pop on a newly aquired 23 t cog (Shinamo Nexus, I know, I know. But it's a heavy bike and Vancouver has a lot of hills. Besides the whole drive train is covered up).
While I'm at it, might as well do something about those two cover plates that cover up the hole at the rear of the chaincase, one part on the elbow, the other on the main body of the case. Been thinking about that problem. Managed to cobble together the chaincase about 2 years ago and get it painted to match the frame, (that's another tale) got parts from NY, from England, from NZ, but no rear cover plates. Made some cardboard patterns and cut metal ones from a Carr's biscuit tin. Never fit though. Either they'd rattle and fall out, or they'd rub on the hub. Got P.O'd and took them out, chain gets a little dirty, but It's a trade-off I can live with. But what happens if I took some of that flexible vinyl magnet material, you know, the fridge magnet stuff, cut it to the pattern shape, albeit in one piece with a slit, and slapped that over the opening at the rear of the chaincase? Should stay on, and if I lost it, I 'd still have the cardboard pattern, and plenty of fridge magnets to cannibilize....
Oh, by the way, I scored big with the local bikeshop, got a new Brooks Millbanks bag. Bikeshop must have got in some new Brooks stock, not too many bites for the saddlebags, heck, the toolpouch is going for CDN $100, a B66 goes for $120. They had the bag marked down twice, and I picked it up for $95.00. Had to take apart my B66 to install the clips, since the newer saddless don't have the litttle clips to thread the bag' s loops through. I scavanged the clips from a rotting B72. Now I have to work on some kind of an "anti theft" restraining system for the saddle bag, or somebody will walk off with the bag.
On another thought, does Chris still go on those long rambling rants?......
| Edward.... judging from the damage report being limited to the velocipede... is it safe to presume that YOU, sir, were relatively un-damaged? I sincerely hope that is the case|
It's a bear when one damages equipment... particularly when parts are not readily available... if available at all.
Best of luck in repairing the machine!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Damage on me? Nah, frosty butt is about all that happened. Just mad at myself for not taking into consideration the black ice, should have read the signals.|
Trying to "hype" myself to look forward to rebuilding the hub, haven't touched it in almost 3 years. Oh well, still have a very grease stained copy of Hadland's oringal SA instructions on the FG....
| Glad to hear you weren't irrepairably damaged Edward. Shame about the bicycle. The inverse law of eventuality says it will never be a Chinese ATB that you damage but it will be one of your favourites.|
Matthew - leave the ice to the skaters
| hi i found a bike that resembles a raleigh. it has a decal on it that says made in England. this bike also has a decal that says "the meteor". could someone please inform me please? you can see photos at http://photos.yahoo.com/bicyclearoundtheworld|
thank you very much!
| Defintely a Raleigh...that's all I know.|