| What units are the hardware bits in on my 1950 Raleigh? Are they English, metric or Wentworth? I have been using my English nut drivers on it which seem to work well but someone told me today they were Wentworth. Thanks for clearing this up for me! Cycle On .../0-/0<|
| Whitworth. It was called Whitworth.|
| Hi Chaps,|
Its Whitworth as you say Chris, which means some metric spanners will fit the nuts as will some AF spanners (AF = across the flats - that's how they are measured) However few of the threads are whitworth they are mostly British Standard Cycle Thread (BSC).
Sorry if this confuses matters. The spanners you need will be marked BSW or WW. Not all sizes match. 1/4" is not the same as 1/2" AF or 13mm.
Matthew - measure for measure.
| I've just about finished restoring my '51 R. Clubman(without new paint) but in the process of taking it down to every nut,bolt and bearing, I lost the master link to the oiginal Renolds chain. I picked one up at the bike shop today but the rivet diameter is smaller so its a sloppy fit. Are there any still made for that chain and where might I find one? Need it soon for a collectors vintage ride comming up. Ted|
| I don't know the answer to your question, but, I have a '51 Lenton Sports. Where is the collectors ride that your attending? I'm in NJ.|
| Thanks Ted, I learned something new today. I went to the garage to grab some NOS master links and compared them to an NOS Renolds Coventry chain I have. Sure enough, the rivets are smaller.|
You can see the rationale for making master links this way. They will fit many makes of chains. Try a master link off an older Raleigh Sports. They used to use Renolds chains. I'm sure I've got one stuffed in a box somehwere but I'm still unpacking after our move.
| Hi Folks,|
Maybe you need to contact:-
Tel: 0161 437 5221
I don't know if they still do cycle chain but it might be worth a trans-atlantic phone call.
Matthew - WWW take a look
| Yeah, where is that classic cycle ride? Anywhere near the East Coast of the US?|
| The ride is out of San Francisco. I restore/collect road bikes, ie. Colnago, Cinelli, Ciocc, Peugeot,etc but this has been a fun challenge. The ride is supposed to be a Fausto Coppi Memorial ride with riders encouraged to ride bikes from "40's thru '60's vintage. I don't think anyone on the West Coast has ever seen a "club racer" and there don't seem to be that many bikes older than 1960. I've learned a lot from this web site. Thanks to all. Ted|
| If you're near SF, there's that guy Bradley who has a shop near Golden Gate Park in between the Haight and UCSF Medical Center. He has a bunch of old historic racing bikes of nice pedigree in the shop and a ton more downstairs in the private basement.|
My friend who was a brewer used to trade him beer for bikes, so I got the grand tour when I was in town. It might be worth looking the shop up.
You should be the first to get a Clubracer in California. Uber cool.
| That would be American Cyclery and they have some great vintage racing photos on their web site. Ted|
| When should you decide to part out a bicycle? I buy and sell old bicycles as a second income. Does anyone have thoughts on what is more profitable? My hart says sell as whole but my head says make more $$ quicker parting out. I feel that I must sell bicycles or parts that are 100% working order. Selling worn out krap is never a good idea. Nobody forgets a sour deal. Ed |
| You have to sell high quality or NOS parts. The only people I see who are successful at this are those who buy large quantities of old stock. IMHO, it's too much work to buy old roadsters and try to sell it off bit by bit. |
I think the best way to make some extra money in the bike business is repair service. Hang your shingle out front, give honest quotes and work hard at it. Eventually you can buy parts wholesale and expand.
| I am in an ideal setup On the edge of the university community on a busy street.I have to maintain a low key operation due to town codes.So it is a hobby and it has developed to a fairly productive buy,sell,parts,repair operation.|
Strictly word of mouth.I'm retired so lots of my own time.
I hit the garage sales and junk stores S.A.etc. have found some really nice bikes and seem to be able to turn over easily.I'm very flexible with people 48 hour return policy for refund or up grade.I pick up and deliver within the imeadiate area for free.Easy test rides.No rush selling procedure.You sound like an honest guy, reasonable prices and honesty will get you a long way.
| I don't think parting out 3-speed bikes is likely to be worth the effort. Most people who use parts have several parts bikes already. They may be looking for NEW parts, like SA internals, old-style cables, etc. You may find lower quality lightweights equipped with incongruously valuable parts, though. I saw a Varsity on ebay recently with great wheels (SS spokes, alloy rims, Campy hubs) that would have been worth separating from the bike.|
| Well, I do break bikes for parts (what you call parting out) but only for my use or to repair for others. Most of my spares are from other bikes rather than purchased as spares and I seldom need to buy new. I would think twice about selling second hand spares but have sold a full chaincase, with all the brackets, to a chap in Scotland.|
I'm with Spike on the honest chap approach, its a whole lifestyle for me.
Matthew - honesty is the best policy.
| Last month I wiped out on my Superbe, not too much damage, but a broken gearchain--on a FG...|
It was a all-day job and most of it's done now. What with taking off the chaincase elbow, breaking the chain, dyno-terminal post nuts, brakes... got the wheel off, then managed to take the sucker apart and extract the two piece indicactor rod and the piece with the mashed up gear chain. Knew I didn't have a spare, for FW's and FG's in N.A. they're next to impossible to come by, so I improvised. Had a shiny new AW chain in my stash, filed off the first little rivet and popped the chain off the post, then filed the first rivet off the FG's post and took off the mashed up chain. Filed and tweaked another rivet off from the FG's chain to use as a new rivet and slid the AW's chain onto the FG's post, slid the rivet in, and peened the end over, Good as new! Now to get the hub back together...
The S/A manual available from Hadland's site is invaluable, without it I would never have attempted to undertake the job. Everything fine until I mounted the dyno fixing screws, or rather the eensy weensy lockwashers and nuts. A 5mm socket will do the trick, but the frustrating job is getting the nut on the screw so I could tighten it down with the socket. Not an easy job for a hub x4 laced into a, um, "robust" rim.
Wheel back together, cone adjustment so-so, allready to mount the wheel. Forgot to slide a nail through the ends of the chain when I broke it. More cussing and fidling with a bent piece of coathanger fishing the end of the chain out of the chaincase. Chain too short. Of course it is, I replaced the 20 t sprocket with a 22 t Nexus sprocket (Vancouver is hilly and 4 spd or not, the bike ain't no lightweight...)Go back to my assorted chocolate box of parts and fish out a half-link. Chains the right length now but rubs something gawd-awful in the case. Oh well, I'll deal with it later. Now for the cone adjustment, and getting the dyno terminal posts right between the the steat stay and chainstay junction. O.K., now switch to 2nd and line up the indicator on the left side. Good, good,.. running throught the gears, all nice and tickety-boo and then the trigger comes off.
That trigger.. 4spd ones don't come easy, and with this particular one I had to manufacture a new spring for it a few years back. Well, the triger itself is fine, but the band that clamps to the bars has failed. I look in my stash. Got an oldstyle 3spd that I can cannabilise the body from, same body as the 4spd, right down to the little window, but that'll mean another afternoon of filing off the rivets of both triggers, swapping out the guts, and contorting the spring. It's do-able, did it before, but not for today. I dremel off the clamp and drill two holes in the body and screw a piece of tape covered pipe strapping. It holds, looks like hell, but it'll do for now.
Now to deal with that rubbing. File down the studs on the removeable link and the half link, trim the wire cotter pin on the half-link. Still noise. Loosen up the wheel and pull the chain tighter, better but not good. Chaincase is warped. The chain rubs on the tail end, right where it goes under the seat stay. If I could magically clamp it to the chainstay it'd be allright. No magic, but I got JB weld. A dab'll do, inbetween the chaincase and the seatstay. Well, why not? The chaincase isn't going anywhere, the glue isn't visible, and I don't want to remove the chainwheel so's I can remove the case. And even if I did, there'd be no guarantee that I could straighten the case. JB weld it is. I clamp it and let it dry. Better, almost good, what does it sound like with the elbow back on? Sigh....
I'll start again tomorrow....
| "Great works are accomplished not through strenght, but through perserverance." - Samuel Johnson|
Thanks for the tale Edward. Sounds about like the comedy of errors that would be exactly what I would go through in precisely the same circumstance....
While not a true believer in Murphy's Law, I find that Reilly's corollary to same is oft true...
"When all appears to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something."
Hang tough and Happy Holidays! (To ALL here for that matter)
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Fooled around with the chaincase a bit today. Stopped myself before I got too frustrated and did something else for a while, then had a good think. If the chain is making the noise, especialy the masterlink and the half-link why don't I change the chain? The chain is pretty much original, but a new 8 or 9 spd chain should fit, and be alot thinner--as well as lighter. Might bring the weight down to say, 50 lbs.... No bulky half-link and the new masterlinks on those chains are super thin as well.|
Hmm, just might be worth all the effort, pulling the old chain off and threading a new chain in the case....
Necessity is the mother of invention but she doesn't pay much and she's a hard task master!
Confusious he say 'When you think you are succeeding machine will turn and bite you.'
Matthew - many kinks make a chain
| Methinks there's no way an 8 speed chain will fit on a roadster crank/cog. 1/8 X 1/2 pitch is it.|
| I have a His / Her set of Raleigh sprite 27 in perfect shape besides the tires. I would like to find Raleigh 27" x 1 1/4" Gumwall tires to replace, Any Ideas|
| This isn't exactly English, but it is a 3 speed.A Skyway from Japan C. 1970 and seems to have been an attempt at a quality bike.Head tube bearing cups appear to be turned and hardened and head tube hardware has a high quality chrome job.Nice paint with gold english like stripes that have held up very well.My Q. is Did Skyway BMX bikes import any bikes like this?|
| OOPS, Sorry I hit the wrong tab.|
| If you must have Raleigh brand, you will probably have trouble finding good ones. If you're not particular about brand, your LBS and any larger on-line place (nashbar, bikepartsusa, etc) should be able to supply them.|