MISC:   Robin Hood Sports posted by: Joe on 2/14/2006 at 3:38:14 AM
Does anyone know how to identify the year of a particular year Robin Hood Sports? I cam across two this week, both completely disassembled, one is red and one is black, both are in fair to ok condition, and the wheels look decent, but which wheels go to which bike? The one front wheel has a grease or oil port, the other is plain, both are 32 spoke, the rear hubs are both S/A AWs, with one marked 3- 65 and the other having no readable date codes. There is an extra set of hubs, a front with a grease port, and an AW with a 10 56 code. Both of these hubs were cut from wheels and still have spoke stubs on them. There is two saddles, one a Brooks two tone vinyl, and one a Brooks B72. This looks like basically two complete bikes, plus a few spares. There is one plastic lense shifter, and one under the bar trigger as well. My question is, if the wheels on one of these bikes are not original or have been changed, how can you tell when it was built? Both are decaled the same, and other than differences in the hubs, all of the parts look the same. How do I tell say a 1956 from say a 1966? I do realize that the later models went to 36h wheels, and had some decal changes, but is there a way to tell the earlier ones apart?
Also, what year did Robin Hood become part of Raleigh?
Also, where are the serial numbers on a Robin Hood?
I can find none on the B.B., seat post, or dropouts, and I have four of these here total.

   RE:MISC: Robin Hood Sports posted by Warren on 2/14/2006 at 6:33:44 PM
A few things that might help.
Have a look at the diameter of the seatstays. There was a fairly marked reduction over that decade for many marques. How about a oil port on the BB shell...that's older.The quality of the front fork drop is often an indicator. Older headsets often use smaller gauge bearings although I'm not sure if this applies to Robin Hoods. The old Raleigh primer undercoat was really bombproof...does either of these bikes show worn paint with lots of black undercoat? Also check the quality of any fasteners.

   RE:RE:MISC: Robin Hood Sports posted by Warren on 2/14/2006 at 6:41:57 PM
I guess the fasteners and headset is moot with the frames being completely diassembled. How about seatpin diameter? Any difference there?

   RE:MISC:   Robin Hood Sports posted by Geoff Rogers on 2/15/2006 at 10:48:02 PM
The oiler on the bottom bracket is a giveaway. They stopped using the BB oil port in 1964. Prior to about 1961, it would have been a steel type; later ones are plastic.

   RE:MISC:   Robin Hood Sports posted by Joe on 2/16/2006 at 1:33:16 AM
Neither frame has a B.B. oil port. Both seat posts are the same, both look to measure roughly 1".
The decals on the one are pretty plain, and are lifing off the paint, they are pretty much all gone, with the eception of a few bits here and their. Only the discolored area where the decal was remains. That same bike is pinstriped throughout, the fenders, frame and fork all have fine gold outlining, while the other one has little to no pinstriping, and has some foil looking bands around the seat tube, much like a Raleigh Sports.
Both bagged headsets are identical, but one frame does have slightly larger diameter seat stays, but not by much, just enough that you can notice there's a difference. The frame with the gold seat tube bands looks almost like a low end road bike frameset, while the black frame with all of the pinstriping looks older, but the satin finish look the paint has contributes to that impression. The fenders on the black bike are a bit heavier, but both are the same shape, and use wire stays. All of the wheels that came with this lot are Dunlop branded, as are the tires, but the tires on the pair with the '66 rear hub are Raleigh branded with the reflective stripe. The stems, handlebars, and forks are the same, the frames differ only slightly, (seat stays), and the cranksets are the same, (sort of a snowflake design), as is the bottom bracket axles. The crankarms are rounded slightly and not square edged like the arms on my Raleigh Sports.

   RE:RE:MISC: Robin Hood Sports posted by Warren on 2/16/2006 at 3:21:59 AM
If the black bike has the larger seatstays as well as the heavier gauge fenders, I'd vote for it. The satin finish is likely undercoat peeking thru. Rounded crank arms were typical of all Raleigh rebrands.

Finally, black is classic. Dress it up with the older parts with confidence.

   RE:MISC:   Robin Hood Sports posted by Joe on 2/16/2006 at 4:34:04 AM
They're both going back together, the red frame, which I am guessing to be the later model, is much cleaner looking, but I do agree that the black bike is much more 'British" looking style wise. The black will polish up, but the remaining decals would not survive, they brush off with just the touch of my hand. Actually neither bike is scratched up much, just that the black one has more paint wear on the edges of the fenders. All of the fender stays are a mess though, not a one of them is even close to straight, but they are just wire and should straighten easily. The odd part is that I can't figure out why anyone would have torn these apart like this, they are both pretty much complete, with neither one needing any serious work other than reassembly.
I guess there's no way to tell the exact year once the original wheels are gone? I have to assume that one of these wheelsets is older than either bike, it looks like the '56 set would only be proper on a frame with a B.B. oil port? I have other hubs, maybe one with a closer date to this frame I can swap in, I guess I just need to shoot for anything after 64?
Does anyone happen to know when the front hubs lost the oil port (when I say oil port, I mean it has the same little cap and tower fill port as the rear hub). The other wheel has no hole at all. Also, I have a 1963 Norman that has the same front hub with the capped oil port, and the rear hub is dated 10 63. That bike has no oil port on the bottom bracket, but I am not certain if they were also Raleigh built? Other than decals, it does look identical to the Robin Hood though, same fork, stem, saddle, etc.

   RE:RE:MISC: Robin Hood Sports posted by Warren on 2/16/2006 at 4:56:32 AM
There were few manufacturing "rules" and a secondary brand like a Robin Hood might not be likely to have extras like BB oil ports...hence the wire fender stays instead of dual steel found on higher raleigh models. As far as the dismantling, please check the alignment on both f & f carefully. It's the number one reason to strip a bike. You can throw a headset, handlebars and a couple of wheels on a frame and roll down the street to feel it out (if you can't see it) before doing a meticulous nut and bolt rebuild. Do a string test...look it up, it's late. If it's tweaked, get a good shop to set it straight. I have a great shop that does a proper job for $25 if its minor, $75 if it's a mess. Any more gets silly.

If the Norman (or any bike) is a Raleigh, the rear fender eyelets are behind the axle and not above it. Guaranteed. With the exception of some larcenous Chinese knockoffs that copied everything.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC: Robin Hood Sports posted by Joe on 2/16/2006 at 5:52:04 AM
The Norman has the same rear dropouts as the Robin Hoods do. infact, if it weren't for the decals, it would be identical to the red Robin Hood frame, even the same color. I checked the frames first off, and both look good, I have a complete Park frame tool set here, including an FP4 fork guage and and all of the levers and headtube straightening tools. What I don't have, I can borrow from a local shop that no longer uses then due to "liability" reasons. The only thing I haven't found yet is a dropout alignment guage, but I have a homemade set that work very well. The only thing I see so far other than the mangled fender stays, is a seized pedal, and a few missing ball bearing, which I woldn't reuse anyhow. The wheels will need a little touching up, but their not bad, the one set has some brake wear, but the other set still has real good chrome.
Does anyone know when Robin Hood became part of Raleigh? I am guessing that the black bike is somehwere between then and about 1965 or '66. I don't supppose there was a very big difference in these from the start to end of that period anyhow.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Robin Hood Sports posted by King Kassel on 3/19/2006 at 10:21:45 PM
Yo. I have been examining a 3 speed english racer I bought used about 20 years ago and am wondering how old it is. It is a black and white racer with 26" wheels, says Robin Hood on the post under the seat, the gooseneck appears to be stamped atop with a robin hood image, and there is a colorful nameplate on the front frame saying Robin Hood, Nottingham England. There is also a gold flake imprint on the chain guard saying robin hood and a gold flake sticker saying made in england. I cannot find a serial number. It appears the rear wheel has some trouble now. The chain spins on both sprockets with no forward motion. Someone suggested it was somehow "stuck" in neutral. What is that? Oil should fix it? KK

AGE / VALUE:   NOS rod brake parts posted by: Matthew on 2/13/2006 at 9:40:29 PM
Hey chaps (& chapesses,

This may be of interest to you EBay Item number: 6604353813. Some NOS rod brake parts in chrome. I found them whilst looking for tyres etc for the trade bike, which is looking like a 1930's Phillips possibly. This is hard to tell. The pedals are Phillips and the frame has cottered BB so it is pre WW2. No not just cottered cranks, the BB is cottered into the frame. I'm all rust and black enamel right now. The pedals are rebuilt. front mudguard looking good and I'm making progress. I hope to be riding it before Easter. Need to get a move on 'cos my sister is bringing over her W.H.Smith's delivery bike soon for the Matthew touch (a bit like midas but much more rust!!)

Matthew - restoration its a past-time.

AGE / VALUE:   Monson swap posted by: Jeff R on 2/12/2006 at 7:37:37 PM
I made it to the Monson swap, and back home too. Lots and lots of snow, not too many bikes. There were a few of us diehards there. At least I got to talk to a few people that I don't get to see often enough. I hope Jim holds another meet next month.

AGE / VALUE:   Part needed posted by: KIMO on 2/10/2006 at 12:41:35 PM
Aloha. I need a couple of Dl-1 seat stay bolts (The ones that attach to the chainstay.) I've got 2 bikes sidelined until I can find the parts. Or if you have alternate ideas I'd much appreciate hearing about it.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Monson Swap Meet posted by: Geoff Rogers on 2/10/2006 at 3:53:52 AM
I am hoping to attend the Monson, Mass. swap meet this Sunday but there is a Nor'easter blizzard forecast for Saturday evening. Is there a snow date, and how can we know if the event has been called off? Are you out there, Jim?
If it works out, I will bring some old British stuff, including some club bikes and probably my '59 Superbe with gearcase, rod brakes, and 4-speed dynohub. I can also bring other rare bits (some NOS) if anybody needs anything specific. But if it's a blizzard I might just stay home....

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Monson Swap Meet posted by Lester Miller on 2/19/2006 at 10:43:00 PM
I'm trying to restore a couple of early 1900 raleigh bikes maybe you can help me out finding parts??