AGE / VALUE:   Paint transplant and rim rosin posted by: Pete on 5/19/2006 at 4:10:03 PM
Hi all,

Thanks for mulling over the tail light question for me. I've seen some charts but haven't been able to quite apply them to my particular case...

In any case, I've had two interesting (crazy ?)ideas... For making a perfect match touch-up paint has anyone ever tried taking chips from an inconspicuous area (e.g. inside of a chaincase) dissolving them in paint thinner and applying to other affected areas ? I have a "donor" mudguard I've been thinking of trying this with...

2nd nutty idea... rubbing a bit of bow rosin (it's a bit like very hard wax when you get it) to chromed rims to increase the grip of the brake pads... I may try this over the weekend... if it works one could concievably drill a little hole in each brake pad and insert a pellet of rosin... Too nuts ? Would this make a gummy mess ? Damage the chrome or rubber ?

Cheers !


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Paint transplant and rim rosin posted by Matthew on 5/19/2006 at 8:18:42 PM

the addition of wax to the braking surface of the rim is probably not a good or a safe idea. After all you wouldn't use furniture polish and that's wax too. My concern is that the heat generated by the friction between the chromium and the rubber would be sufficient to melt the wax and produce a lubricated surface resulting in severely impaired braking performance. Rim temperatures are no necessarily high but probably high enough to cause trouble. Unless you are descending from the Alps to sea level!

I think the best way to improve rod brake performance is full and correct adjustment of linkage, fulcrums & block contact. Good rims will help too, straight, well aligned, and clean.

Matthew - spin free, stop gently.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Paint transplant and rim rosin posted by sam on 5/20/2006 at 11:47:51 PM
Rosin is tree sap--not a wax.Dissolve some in alcohal and you have varnish.So the real question is would varnishing your rims make them transfer heat better?I vote no--but you are welcome to tell me if your idea works.
The real stopping power of a rim is related to how well it transfers the heat --wood rims are the worst as they don't take any of the hear--the pads melt under hard braking!Steel rims work but alum rims disapate heat 5 times better than steel ---that's why they stop quicker.
I like Matthew's advise--clean and properly adjust the brakes for the best of what you have---sam

MISC:   Raleigh Professional on Ebay posted by: Bruce on 5/19/2006 at 12:04:00 PM
I have been looking for a Raleigh Professional or International, but after seeing the reserve price of $699. for a nice one on Ebay I guess I will continue to just dream of one. Is the price on these bikes that high these days?

   RE:MISC:   Raleigh Professional on Ebay posted by Kurt K. on 5/19/2006 at 12:50:20 PM
That's a low price for a Professional, at least for the current eBay market. Depends on the year. Is it a post '76 MkV model without the fastback stays and sloping crown? Those usually bring a tad less then the MkIVs.

MkIIs top them all at prices though - I recall a small-frame '70 MkII in mint shape bringing $1700 on eBay if I'm not mistaken.

I've noted that the bronze metallic Internationals bring even more then the MkV Pros. $1000 is not out of the ordinary for a well kept, all-original example.

Take care,


   RE:MISC:   Raleigh Professional posted by Bruce on 5/20/2006 at 2:50:54 AM
I see it went for 765. I wonder if Ebay has driven prices up or do they accurately reflect the market?

   RE:RE:MISC:   Raleigh Professional posted by Kurt K. on 5/20/2006 at 10:01:32 PM
Without question, eBay has done more in the last 10 years to drive up prices on anything collectable.


   RE:MISC:   Raleigh Professional on Ebay posted by Steve on 5/23/2006 at 5:02:59 PM
Back about 5 years ago I saw a near-mint ca. '73 International at Recycled Cycles for about $700 as I recall. Given the age, condition, and original quality, the price didn't strike me as out of line. International frames seem to show up fairly regularly on eBay; I think the explanation is that the original owners switched the components onto one of the shorter-wheelbase frames that became the style in the mid-70's. About this time in '02, I got outbid for an International frame that was won at about $175.

AGE / VALUE:   WAR or PREwar posted by: Bundy on 5/18/2006 at 12:00:12 AM
well its the same old storie ,I grew up ridding bicycles and have used them in my hobby bases in life bmx,road bikes,touring,,cruisers,and now to the finish line on the last style bikes I thought I would never show interest in, but as fate would have it I aquired my first vintage bike but i'm not sure what year exactly it is but i have been told by the only local vintage shop in my area thats it may be a warbike or prewar!So what do I know about war era bikes nothing!I spent my whole life galking at the newest frames and components to make my bike at the time what we call [HIGH ZOOTEN]ha! What I should have been doin all this time was paying attention to the old foggies and there bikes and components now i am reaching out to get answers to my questions about this vintage Raleigh Tourist can anybody relate ? here we go-- first ? how do i fill up tires w air only been doin this my whole life ! there is no valve core in these metal stems ? must be adapter?unheard of!2nd? the year? frame# S 33182 not on database.the StrumerArcher hub only #s showing KB4 ?can anybody help or direct me I also need a used tire to match the only good tire 28/1/1/2 Dunlop Roadster my email address is please leave message! Santa Clara calif. also looking for ralieigh pump and Lucas headlamp for this era !I found the very similar bike in pic archives 30's to40's roadster Raleigh owned by [rdiamonde ]if you read this drop me a line thanks BUNDY

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   WAR or PREwar posted by Matthew on 5/18/2006 at 5:59:42 PM
Hi Bundy,

The rear hub on your bike is a K-series with hub brake from 1934. Sounds like your bike is quite a find. You can buy tyres (tires) on the internet from The Old Bicycle Co here in the UK.

The inner tubes won't have car type (schraeder) valves but will have Woods type valves which need an adapter on your foot pump or a Woods type flex fitting for your bike pump. The local cycle shpo should be able to provide one of these very cheaply.

Enjoy the ride.

Matthew - looking older than I am really .

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   WAR or PREwar posted by bundy on 5/22/2006 at 6:56:19 AM
matthew thanks for the info !you dont know how muck your info helped me im trying to send pic this bike really is !!!!!!!undescribable thanks again leave email address i will send pic this bike was around stanford colledge probably brought to Palo Alto ca to get around school back when!.Yahoooooooooooo


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   WAR or PREwar posted by bundy again on 5/22/2006 at 6:59:03 AM
not muck its MUCH sorry

AGE / VALUE:   Dynohub wiring posted by: pete on 5/17/2006 at 3:34:39 PM
Hello gents,

Probably a pretty dopey question, but here goes... I have an early 12v front dynohub setup with head and tail lamps. When I connect wires from the hub to the terminals on the headlamp and thence to the tail lamp the situation arises that the tail lamp is always on... this being because the on/off switch actuates only on the wire that leads from the red terminal to the center of the headlamp bulb... When these were originally put together, would they have been wired from hub directly to tail and then forward to the plus terminal on the headlamp ? Or would there have been a permanent wire soldered to the center of the headlamp socket which would then pass on to the tail lamp ? There's an extra hole in the bottom of the lamp shell which I presumed was for water drainage but was perhaps for another wire ?

Thanks for any suggestions !

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dynohub wiring posted by David on 5/19/2006 at 1:13:58 PM
The headlamps and switches are not all the same, but here's a description of some stuff in an old SA service manual concerning the normal 6v front Dynohub. I assume the wiring would be the same.

There's a diagram showing the switch as you look into the headlamp shell. There are three terminals across the switch: green on the left, red in center, and black on the right. The wires from the hub connect to a ground terminal at the bottom of the headlamp shell and to the right-hand black terminal. The center red terminal connects to the headlamp bulb internally and to the taillight with a cable. The green terminal is unused (it goes with the dry battery unit). If yours is different, I would simply connect the wire to the center of the taillight to the same terminal that the headlamp uses.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dynohub wiring posted by pete on 5/19/2006 at 4:08:49 PM
Thanks David !

Yes, my light is a bit different than you described though something may be missing... the "green" terminal in the center perhaps... On my lamp the switch is on the top and there are only 2 terminals on the bottom... My suspicion then is that i'll have to use the "extra" hole at the base of the lamp. When I connect the center tail lamp wire to the red terminal it basically bypasses the switch...

Cheers !


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dynohub wiring posted by David on 5/20/2006 at 10:56:25 AM
As long as one side of the Dyno is "ground" and goes to the headlamp and taillight shells (without a switch) and the other side goes to the switch, just be sure both bulb filaments connect together to the other side of the switch (so they're both powered when it's closed).

MISC:   Nice Raleigh pump on ebay posted by: Warren on 5/17/2006 at 1:55:37 AM
Someone was looking for this recently...

item # 6630118857