Jane and I are both breaking in new S5s and the low gears are like grinding corn. Our older S5s are smooth as butter in all gears. I'm tempted to take a short ride with valve grinding compound replacing the 30 weight.
by: 69.81.161.17
| aluminum front forks of these three speeds, found one last week but the fork bent can it safely be rebent? thanks by: 64.136.26.228 |
| Hello Kevin, First thought is no! Aluminium work hardens and therefore becomes 'brittle' You are more likely to snap the fork than mend it. The only way is to get an engineer to anneal the fork first (make it workable / soft) then re-align it, then ensure it is heat treated for strength once repaired. Or maybe just find a new fork? Matthew - malleable but not a push over. by: 62.253.64.14 |
| I would replace the fork. Ensure that the bike is safe and ridable. Source up a new original replacement Bickerton fork. by: 68.41.206.53 |
| thanks guys, much appreciated. by: 64.136.26.228 |
| Hi. I just found two womens Royal Scots, 69's and I was wondering exactly where these came from, I've had a men's for about a year now but I thought these were only made for a bike shop in N.Y. (Sheldon Brown) by Raleigh but they are cropping up quite a bit. Any info? Thanks. by: 64.136.26.228 |
| found another today, this is nuts, hercs and raleighs all the time but where are these from? by: 64.136.26.228 |
| Just bought a Royal Scot mens today. Black color. The gent who bought it new in the 60's was in college in NY. Are these made by Raleigh? by: 69.174.176.176 |
| I just finished my Raleigh Folder project. Everything was looking good until the test ride. The bicycle was in need of the usual tune up but I decided to add my new spare Sturmey Archer S5 (I have one on my Sprite). This was spoked to an alloy BMX rim. The best set up for shifters on the S5 is a left frition shifter from a front derailleur and a standard SA trigger on the right. The brand new S5 in first gear feels like a lousy shimano 333. I know this will smooth out. My experience with my Sprite was something like that. I can't help but wonder how any one without any experience of SA hubs would rate this hub. I think the S5 must have had some bad revews at its start. Internal gears are the best for this bicycle. But my big mistake was putting a plastic shifter (garbage picked). This was painful. The shifter did not have enough tension and let the cable slack this puts the S5 in free. I went to push hard on the pedals and went flying off into the grass on the side of the path! The well fit helmet and cycle gloves I spent $60 for were a big help. Money well spent. Cheap cycle equipment is not for me. Lesson learned Ed by: 64.136.27.226 |
| I ALWAYS tear apart an S5 (especially NOS ones) before using them after discovering the factory was kind enough to include an extra pawl spring inside a unit I was about to put into service. Imagine the "grunch" if I had left it in! by: 128.196.165.136 |
| Yes, I did take it apart. Any thing I purchase on Ebay I am suspect of but this was OK. I have a nice reminder in the shape of a folding lever impression (dimples and all) on my left shin. Ed by: 64.136.27.226 |
| Adding a spring between the bellcrank arm and threaded rod will cure the sort of shifting problem you encountered. Jane and I are both breaking in new S5s and the low gears are like grinding corn. Our older S5s are smooth as butter in all gears. I'm tempted to take a short ride with valve grinding compound replacing the 30 weight.
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| Thank you for the photo. This is helpful. Ed by: 64.136.27.226 |
| Oh, and can anyone tell me what defines a roadster? Thanks by: 159.134.180.23 |
| I say a diamond frame made for the set-up-and beg ridding style. by: 69.152.136.101 |
| Welcome New Chap, I personally would say that for the context of this forum an English Roadster is a bicycle made for road use, daily travel or touring, by any bicycle maker in England, probably between 1900 and then late 1970's but also including more modern machines in the roadster form. Roadsters typically have, internal hub gears (often Sturmey archer but not always), a sprung saddle (often leather), a diamond or mixte frame, rod brakes (cable and drum are acceptable), dynamo lighting (desirable). There are very many options around each of these features. Finally, as this is the strength and delight of this discussion board, there are no hard and fast rules for defining roadsters. We all happily discuss, Raleigh, BSA, Humber, Sunbeam, Scwinn, CCM, Rudge, Hercules, Superbe, Sprite, Twenty, 'All steel' etc etc. and learn much from each other in the process. The contributors here are flung far and wide and their knowledge is vast. Matthew - come on in! by: 62.253.64.14 |
| Hello, Im not quiet sure about this particular site works so i'm not even sure if this msg will be read, but anyway. I recently pulled my grandfathers old Rudge out of a overgrown hedge at he back of the house, it is in very bad shape and I’d like to restore it, I’m not necessarily a bike enthusiast but I value the bike for its vintage charm and sentimental reasons., ive been browsing the various sites to try to identify the exact make and Model without much success, so if anyone is willing to take a look at some pictures of it and maybe put me on the right road to restoring it I would be very grateful, I can be contacted on the following address mjohnson1@ireland.com. I’ll try to post a pic using the option below. Thanks for taking the time to read this, regards by: 159.134.180.23 |