| wasn't their some discussion a while back (maybe a couple of years)on non dated s/a hubs.Not the very early ones that didn't have a date stamp but the later aw type that should have one or two diget date stamp,but somehow didn't get stamped?---sam|
| Looking for anyone who might have on hand a Raleigh handlebar, stem & crankset from the early '50s (not the late '50s parts marked RALEIGH INDUSTRIES) for sale. Two handlebars would be even better. Must be in nice, reasonably presentable shape.|
Need these to finish my '51 Raleigh Sports "C" Tourist. Been looking around for these parts for over 6 months now...if anyone could help, I would be much obliged.
Please email if you have these parts, cudak888 @aol. com
| Hi Folks,|
I thought this might be of interest to some of you:
I regret parting with bike but I need that space and some$$ for other projects! The bike is mostly correct (lights are slightly earlier) and it looks and rides great.
| What was the largest frame on Raleigh's Clubman 3-speed from the late 1940's ? This bike seems to be a hybrid, sort of a high speed roadster.....what do they usually sell for ?|
| Alas they only came in one size...22 inch. The later ones were particularly nice with 531 plain gauge tubes AND forks and stays. |
| If I'm not mistaken, one of our fellow listers just sold a 49 frame, fork|
and headclip for about $350!! On ebay.
| for sale: 1958 Lenton Grand Prix Reg Harris model, 531 main frame 21 inch 4 speed SA FM and 3 speed Cyclo Benelux, all original save for new tires and tubes. $350 south of Boston...this is a bargain based on recent sale of 1949 Clubman frame at $350 on the 'bay|
| I have two Clubmans, a 1948 and a 1950. Both have 22 inch frames and FW 4speed hubs. The 48 came with Britiannia spearpoint mudguards. The paint and decals are not perfect but there ok. Good chrome too. I ride the bike daily. I removed the dropped bars and replaced them with comfort bars. Cost was $450. |
The 50 has poor paint and decals, but very good chrome on the fork and rear stay ends, as well as the wheels and hubs and chainwheel. It came with Reynolds comfort bars. Cost was $250.
Once you ride a Clubman with comfort bars you will not want to go back to a sports.
| Yup, that was my frame/fork that I sold on eBay recently. I sold it because I bought a complete '49 Clubman shortly after buying that frameset from a UK eBay seller. I don't think I've broken even yet; however, I do have a several components that I had planned to use to build up the frameset: Dunlop EA1 lightweight steel rims, a brakeset, alloy mudguards, a few other things. Contact me if interested.|
I took the Clubman for a long ride on Saturday. A terrific rider.
| I love my three Clubmans (a '48, a '49 and a '51) but alas their 22" frame size is just too small for me. Love to find a new home for the lot of them. Raleigh was always very miserly when it came to frame sizes. |
Now taller riders who want a Clubman ride (which, yes, is sheer poetry in motion) might search for a Raleigh Super Lenton which was only in production c. 1952-54 and was, effectively, a late series Clubman in a 22" and a 23" frame. All Reynolds 531, alloy bits, 4-speed racing hub etc. etc. But hard to find. Amazingly Pete Paine in the UK had one on eBay that sold for some absurdly low price about a year ago.
But no... a Clubman is NOT a roadster or a souped up Sports. It's a lithe and lively little bulldog of a pocket racer. I used to love taking my '49 (the best running of the lot even if very tatty) out to Hains Point here in DC where all the Spandex lads on Litespeeds do their laps and just run them off the road with her. With an AM hub, she could beat the lot of 'em. Even if my knees were awfully close to my ears.
| Peter, I've always wondered what taller riders did back in the Clubman days. Lots of seat post? Custom builds? Live with the discomfort? Interesting to me that the RRA came in taller sizes--guess the tall chaps had to pay dearly.|
| Well I wonder how many taller riders there really were? This is England where I still get buy trousers off the peg at Marks & Sparks and I take a 34" inseam. Most cycles you see on eBay UK seem to really be 22 or 22 1/2". So Raleigh knew their market I guess. Oddly, Rudge-Whitworth before the war offered their club and racing machines in a full range of sizes. The pre-war RRA maxed out at 23" and this was only offered at the beginning of production c. 1934 and just before WW2. Post-war there was a wider range of sizes maxing out at 24". But only for the RRA.|
Riding style was different then with taller seat posts and clubmen rode (as I usually do) "on the drops". That's why the handlebars had rubber grips only at the bottom and indeed if you wrapped handlebars you usually did so only up to the brake levers. So it was a very "tight" and efficient riding style suited to small frames. I also find the 1948-9 Clubmans with the 26 x 1 1/4" wheels give a better, more stable ride than the later ones with 27" wheels. Finally the more relaxed angles of the Clubmans 48-9 make the frame feel smaller than it really is.
| Sorry folks that first sentence should read still CAN'T get... the point being that English blokes are.. well more vertically challenged that Americans ones I guess. But I'd gladly give up a few inches of inseam to enjoy my Clubmans!|
| It must have been a matter of riding style, Peter, as well as vertical challenge. After all, the upright tourist and roadster bikes came in 24" sizes. No need to worry about wind resistance in those cases, I suppose.|
| 24"? Heck, roadsters came in 26" frames with 28" wheels! So yes "sit and beg" riding was a world apart from fast club riding it appears. |
1948 was the last year that Raleigh offered a 26" frame with their no. 1 roadster (the DL-1 as Americans call it)
| I've a 5-speed "train wreck" Sprite that's immensely tall... as tall as my DL-1 for certain... methinks it's a 26" frame, so yes... there were some tall machines around.|
I've never ridden a Clubman... but this silly '62 Armstrong has me quite enamored. Thr front wheel and fork are all I've had time to clean up... and I've gotten to enjoy riding it so much, I'm not wanting to really tear into it to clean up... as it won't be available to ride in the process!
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I saw a fellow riding a contemporary Gazelle the other morning, and it was certainly the "sit up and beg" style. I'm a big fan of upright bars, but that's getting a bit extreme.|
| Gazelle extreme? Perhaps for a "traditional" bicycle. My Electra Rat Fink with the apehangers... now THAT is extreme!|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Thanks for all the information in those replies. I think a Clubman would be a bit small for me, being 6'5". Right now I'm riding a 1971 Raleigh International , 25.5 inch frame set up with upright handlebars for a relaxed ride. I've read that the International had a similar frame geometry to the Clubman. It's a very nice bike to ride and only 22 lbs.|
| Yup, Kurt, the 22" frame Clubman will be puny for you. And, fwiw, your '71 International goes for much more in today's eBay market than a Clubman would.|
| Looking for a 1950 vintage Raleigh Clubman, 23" frame, 27 x 1 1/4 tires. Can anyone out there help me?|
| You're SOL. Raleigh Clubmen were not produced in 23" size, nor were they produced in 1950.|
1948, 1949, and 1951 in 22" size is possible. But only the '51 had 27" tires. The '48 and '49 had 26" wheels.
I own 4 vintage Clubmans and am always looking for more. These are great bikes and I would buy every last one of them if I could.
I'd suggest trying the 22' frame if it is not too small for you.
| I just bought my first Roadster, a 1952 Raleigh DL-1 and am in the process to cleaning/servicing everything. I can't figure out for the life of me how to remove the full chaincase. I removed the rear service opening near the sprocket, and another one near the right crank. I can remove the right crank, but it still looks like the chaincase is one single chunk of metal. Who can help?|
| You need to remove the "pie plate" or the circular metal piece that surrounds the crank arm. It should pry right off. Once that's off, you'll have access to the bolt that connects the chaincase to the frame. You should be able to work the whole thing off without taking off the crank arm.|
| No need to remove it just for servicing. You can remove the chain with the guard in place provided the pie tin is out and the rear quarter has been removed. Move the chain around until the split link comes around to the rear quadrant remove the link BUT FIRST! Put string through both ends of the chain and feed the string through the guard this will assist refitting. Only remove the whole guard if you are going for a full frame repaint.|
Matthew - Roadsters, made to last for ever, and a day.