AGE / VALUE:   Till death do us part? Too many parts to part with posted by: Chris on 8/16/2006 at 12:37:29 AM
It's bothering me so much I brought them in from the kerb. They are going with me to the new house. I'll just keep them and hopefully find somebody who wants these. I'll inventory them all and advertise and stay with it.

I will not commit the sin of heaving these out. In fact, the next house will be packed with all these bicycle parts as I do not have the heart to throw anything else out. It's just too painful.
I'll remain the king of small hard to find bicycle parts anf years from now I'll be asked what this goes to and what it's for and I'll be there with altzheimers and remarking I don't know. I still have The worlds largest collection of N.O.S. C.C.M. BICYCLE SPOKES on the planet. I'll struggle and toss and turn and once the truck leaves tomorrow morning they will be safe for another week and then, I'll stash them at the new house.
I have hit a brick wall and can't get rid of another thing.
I've collected too much and I'm setting things at the kerb and then bringing it back and just going crazy.

Heavy boxes of spokes, back and forth and I can't make up my mind.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Till death do us part? Too many parts to part with posted by Kurt K. on 8/16/2006 at 1:00:14 AM
Chris, I'd be glad to lighten your load of parts if you wish. cudak888@ aol .com


   RE:AGE / VALUE: Till death do us part? Too many parts to part with posted by sam on 8/17/2006 at 2:30:23 AM
A small bottle of copal oil varnish---unopened.Like fine wine it waits to be opened. Thanks Chris.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Till death do us part? Too many parts to part with posted by Chris on 8/17/2006 at 4:39:17 PM
Ah yes, I will find more of this stuff and e- mail you.

It is easy to mess up decals there is an exact art to this.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1954 Rudge-Whitworth posted by: Bill on 8/14/2006 at 11:07:14 AM
Hi there,
The 1954 Rudge-Whitworth Super Safety 113 bicycle was ridden to and displayed at the local Classic Car Show yesterday for its first run out since finishing stage 1 of the restoration.
The wheels have been re-rimmed and spoked in polished stainless steel (the original rims were too deeply weakened with rust to re-use, but I had bought a pair of stainless steel Raleigh rims off eBay a few years ago), trued up etc. The chromework has been repolished and some smaller items nickel plated at home. The paintwork has been redone temporarily on the chaincase, front mudguard and the two lower tubes to prevent further rusting (the rest has been carefully cleaned and oiled).
The bike has had a thorough mechanical overhaul with all bearings replaced, and all bearing races reworked where necessary. I acquired a very poor 1957 Raleigh bike from the recycle bin, which sourced some missing parts, and now I am confident that it is 95% to original spec (with additional parts purchased off eBay, ie original Rudge pedals), as I have an old parts schematic with part numbers.
I will still need to find a correct battery tube as well (mine should have the Filter Switch Unit) - (I have two others, both wrong) which will let me refit the original wiring loom....
The saddle has restored well, with leather hide food worked in for years now.
I have sourced all correct transfers for the bike (except one) ready for after the paint job (if it yet happens).

Yesterday was the first time I can remember riding a bicycle for the last 18 years (is it normal to ache this much?). My last bike, a cheap shopping bike with 20” wheels, huge sloping downtube, a SA 3 speed hub, and a shopping basket was left in a refuse skip at the end of college (it wasn’t worth the hassle trying to get it home). It had been my bicycle from the age of about 12 to 23 and I was glad to see it go.

I did not dare try and access Low or Bottom gear in case the gear cable parted under the strain (4 speeds), as I haven’t yet found a spare, the saddle pivot loosened up, but only because I hadn’t given it enough spanner, but all went well. I need to reposition the rod brake blocks as they are not hitting all of the rim (I was worried about the proximity of the spokes, I will be more brave next time). The original hub appears to be in beautiful condition (I have never ridden a deraileur bike, so I expect my gear-changes to be near silent!). I would guess the bike has been off the road for at least 30 years (I have had it for 18) and it was heavily neglected when I was given it (saved from the refuse skip by a chance conversation in a pub). At last, I own a real bike !

AGE / VALUE:   Crappy book on Schwinn bikes posted by: Chris on 8/13/2006 at 7:59:20 PM
It was a thoughtful gift from Cyn. Yes it was. It made me happy.I was given a newer paper back book on Schwinn bicycles. The author's name escapes me. It was not the Preidemore and Hurd book, that I know.

The book leaves out a lot! It shows the 1948 Schwinn Traveler but does not mention it in print at all. Many bikes look like they were pulled out of somebody's garage and photographed as is. There are some missing chains on the bikes. Dirt, and scratches. The last chapter is well done but over all it was a really lousy job and I know this author made money off of the effort and there is not real love and tenacity, and devotion to the subject and with the collections accessed they could have done way better.

Disgusting really it is.

AGE / VALUE:   Oh you naughty, naughty kittens posted by: Chris on 8/13/2006 at 7:47:18 PM
First the father cat vanishes and then the mother cat abandons them in a a lady pal's garage and so I save them and bring them home and feed and maintain them and how do they thank me? They got loose and peed in my basement. Now I can attest that cat urine in the absolute last thing you ever want on metal vintage bicycle parts.

I looked and found a few items with unbelievable rust on them. I have been cleaning and oiling and the damage is minimal but I am astounded how destructave (and smelly too) cat urine can be.

AGE / VALUE:   '51 Raleigh "C" Sports posted by: Kurt K. on 8/13/2006 at 2:51:12 PM
The '51 Raleigh is now pretty much done. I picked up a black AFA pump at the LBS today to take care of that empty spot between the pump pegs, and I fabricated a new, dual-ended rear brake cable.

Only problem that I note is that neither brake caliper appears to sit right. One pad will come in contact with the rim somewhat (enough to be a nusance) while the other sits considerably outboard. It is obvious that the caliper is sitting offset, but the design of the brake is supposed to auto-center the spring. I suppose the spring is probably weaker on one side then the other.

Otherwise, all that I have left is to hunt down the proper headlamp and taillamp for this machine.

However, the AFA pump - which is the closest substitute to an original Raleigh pump that won't cost me an arm and a leg - has silver lettering around the perimiter, with a particularly irritating tire PSI chart in one spot. I figured I'd ask if anyone here has a solution for stripping paint off of plastic - other then the usual brake fluid method. Would appriciate suggestions.


Take care,



   RE:AGE / VALUE: '51 Raleigh posted by Mark UK on 8/16/2006 at 9:15:39 PM
Hi Kurt, I have had success removing paint from new pumps using metal polish (e.g. Solvol Autosol) and elbow grease. Leaves the plastic beneath shiny and unmarked.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: '51 Raleigh posted by Kurt K. on 8/18/2006 at 1:15:56 AM
Thank you for the tip Mark. Not sure if that brand is available in the U.S. though, but will look around.

Take care,