| GAAAAAA!!!! The basement flooded and my '78 Raleigh Tourist's 40-spoke back rim warn't a proper stainless steel 'un. It is a 28" x 1&5/8" wheel.... does anybody gots stainless steel rims or just a replacement regular one? Hell, I'll even take a whole wheel and just pop in the S5 internals. Got an old Atom 3-cog freewheel and one of those nice Campagnolo (STEEL, yes!) Velox derailleurs on it too. Tires, anyone? Tubes? I am loth to cannibalize the vintage SW-hubbed wheel lurking in the attic, as I haven't touched it since I over-hauled it decades ago. The reason my tourist rear wheel rusted was I wore through the chrome just using the brakes.... about 12 years ago. Luckily the other bike, a '52 four-speed with the rear dynohub is none the worse for the wear, but my girlfriend is just going to have to get used to these dusty old behemoths in the living room. Maybe she'll melt if I unlock the fork-lock on the '52 and let her ride it one warm spring night... and yes, the lights still work! Forest Green. You can sort of make out the gold pinstriping on the frame.... no rust... mud-flap and fender reflector still present, yes, ah, there's fourth gear. The tires still have about 30 psi in them... must ride... must dust some fool on a carbon-framed track bike, put the steel to 'em, mates! But I digress... someone please e-mail me a source for new or used Tourist rims, wheels, tires,brake shoes. I seriously Jonesing over here.|
| Are you useing a 1/2 x 1/8th inch chain with the Velox changer. If so how is it working? I was thinking of putting one on my club bike with an AW+3cog. Since I have the stuff on the shelf already! Did you have to shim the cage wider!|
| Yo Smitty: Been a pretty long time since I put that derailleur on, replacing first a black (plastic?, maybe '75) Simplex, then a metal Huret. I don't recall ever having to widen the idler pulleys. The beefier chain should work well if you have an old derailleur, not something made to work with an eight-cog cassette on one of those beastly Shimano hubs. You probably will have one minor clearance problem though, if you are using fenders -- the lower mounting bolt on the gear side may portrude enough to grind with the chain. Not hard to fix, just use a lock washer and a bolt only long enough to thread through the fender stay into the rear drop-out. Gawd, but my rims are not even remotely salvageable! It is the one place ya just can't put WD-40... rod actuated brakes pull shoes against the rim. Some things are not better when slippery.|
| In the old days I would have to shim derailleur cages wider to use them with 1/8" pitch chain. However the current SRAM 1/8" chain is made with modern technology, and is actually narrower on the outside than 3/32" derailleur chains of 20-30 years ago. I'd have to measure, but KMC 1/8" seems pretty narrow too. |
| Oh! I just remembered the chain issue: you don't need to shim your derailleur cage because conventional ten-speed chain will work on a three-speed roadster's chainwheel and on the Atom freewheel as well as on two dished Sturmey-Archer cogs simply held in place with the big spring clip that holds in a single cog on almost all S-A hubs.|
| I found a dark blue Dawes 3-speed circa 1965. Looking for some history & details. Has a 531 Reynolds decal, aluminum fenders......I was going to pose this question in the lightweight forum...this bike is light at about 26 lbs. !|
| Perhaps you can email them...|
| Do you have any photos? Is it a City bicycle or a roadbike? |
|A bike buddy acquired a mysterious rod-brake bike w/ no clear identification. Rear hub is a 1939 Sturmey Archer AW, top-tube quadrant shifter, lots of red pinstriping, a distinctive fork crown, and no fender eyelets. I've hopefully attached a picture. Any help is surely appreciated.|
| Your bike is identical to one I bought at an auction and then resold last year. Mine had mudguards and a "Made in England" script on the top tube, but it was otherwise pretty much the same, with the same very bright red lining. The mudguards were the prewar round style, like a DL1 Raleigh. In my opinion, these machines were made by Phillips/TI. All the fittings are clearly Phillips: the lugs, the headset, the bottom bracket, etc. Why there is no brand name ID on them anyplace is a mystery, but in any event, they are lovely old machines. Mine had to go because of my little problem of acquiring too may old English bicycles. Way, way, too many. |
All the best,
| Hi Neal,|
I have seen fork crowns like this before but I can't recall which make of bicycle they were on. Perhaps the picture will jog somebody else's memory? It is a fine machine worthy of looking after.
Matthew - I had a good memory if I could remember where I put it.
| Hmmmm... I don't suppose it has a chainwheel that might prove to be edifying...|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| I second the chainring query, but the serial number charts elsewhere on oldroads.com should help. Looks like a Hercules or a DL-1 sans chaincase. The distinctive cut-out on the fork crown coupled with the similar headset lamp bracket will probably be what helps you pin it down.|
| Thanks for that help. Unfortunately, the crankset and the bike are long since parted, so no additional clues there. Someone on Bike Forums suggested Phillips as the mfg, but that might have just been a guess. It's remarkable how few pics there are online of non-Raleigh roadsters.|
Fwiw, here's another pic of the bike from head on.
| I have an old British bike and have been trying desperately to find out what it is. It is missinf the headbadge but it has 28x1 1/2 tires and a BSA rear coaster hub. Made in England stamped all over it. Watson and brown headset and Bottom Bracket. The top tube has a bend downwards toward the seat tube and a big old spring saddle with leather top. Also a miller light and generator. Any info would be much appreciated.|
| Opps sorry I meant Walton & Brown nor Watson.......|
| Hi Mike,|
Unfortunately the description fits far too many bikes to be very useful. A few good photos would be a greta deal of help.
Matthew - Sqinting to get the full picture
|hers is a pic|
| I thought this morning that i'd service the Sturmey AG Dynohub on my 78 Superbe, but 5 minutes into the usual dismantling, it became clear that the chrome cover plate and magnet unit was rusted in and wouldn't just |
drop out as it has always done with the others that i've serviced in the past. I've soaked the area in WD40 and bike oil for 10 hours, then tried inserting a broken spoke to knock it out from the righthand side. This just result in bending out the chrome cover around the
holes. I've hit it inwards to try to break the rust hold and i've tried to insert a screweye in each of the four holes, with wire and hammer as a puller, but to no avail. Anyone have an idea how i could get this out. I've managed to have a tinker with it and got the internals out by simultaneously unscrewing the axle and ballring, but
still can't get to the left hand cup which as luck would have it is grindy and probably shot. Any suggestions would be greatfully
Many thanks, Nick.
| So the chrome pie-plate cover over the armature is rusted to the drum of the hub? Then you tried the spoke through one of the four little screw holes? You might try heating it. Like get the oven to a warm temp (maybe 200 deg, not so hot plastic will melt) and let it sit there until it's equally hot. It might expand enough to loosen up.|
| Thanks David, i soaked it for a couple of days longer and each day gave it a knock with both spoke through the backholes and an 1/8" rod with rightangle bend to rotate the pie-plate cover and magnet(with no success). This morning, i took out the internals again and used an old 4" star socketbit to bang against the rear of the lefthand cone, which in turn applies pressure against the pieplate cover. Obviously i new that because the plate is brass it wasn't going to look pretty afterwards, but even so i persisted and it has started to slowly shift. I've so far got the pieplate to come out by about 8mm, but stubborn little mule that it is, it still won't come out completely. I've punched it out as much as possible and applied a load of WD40 and hopefully it'll give up the ghost and let me in tomorrow morning.|
Many thanks for the help and info.
| Many thanks for the replies,|
Update, it took two weeks, but after the above treatments, 14 days of WD40 and finally a flathead punch inserted through the back holes, it popped. Rust had bonded the magnet to the interior of the hubshell. I think i must have moved the magnet left then rightby a few mm, hundreds of times. It keeps your faith in Sturmey stuff when they come good. It's cleaned up pretty well since and i've ordered a new coverplate and carddisk (uk 6.50) to replace those that i ungraciously despatched during my frenzied attempts at freeing it. As it turned out, the cup and cones are fine(Murphy's law), almost unused in fact, really weird, as it was making a definite catch/clicking sound when rotating the inner plate/cone. Maybe it was a bit of metal or poor fitting. Oh well, it's all experience. When the parts come, i'll put it back on the Superbe. It's sadly got rod brakes like my new Superbe, but with the fully back swept Northroad bars. I'm probably too tall, as they hit your knees when turning, so as it's fully serviced with newly laced vanschothorst westricks, i'll just pass it on to a deserving enthusiast via Ebay or somesuch for them to use as a reliable workhorse commuter.
| Hi Nick,|
David is right a little heat is the usual answer. When two metals with different co-efficients of expansion have corroded together then heat will usually part them. Not roaring furnace heat but gentle warming right through. Even a hot air gun will sometimes do it. Be careful because aluminium will not glow red it will shine and melt under a blow torch. I sometimes use a camping stove to encourage parts to part when they are reluctant but I also use years of experience as an engineer to see that I'm not over doing it.
As a genreal rule for everyone NEVER heat mazak (the metal toy cars are made of) it just disintegrates befre your eyes like solder. Not many cycle parts are made of this but the odd casting or light fitting might be made from it.
Using percussion (a hammer) to knock things apart can had poor results. As I had with a hub recently, which now lies in bits but not as I intended. Just when you think you are winning, something breaks.
Matthew - burnt fingers are better than broken parts.