AGE / VALUE:   Cleaning parts with turpentine? posted by: Chris on 4/24/2007 at 9:49:25 AM
Don't think I should be cleaning cycle parts with turpentine.
I stoped using gasoline ahwile back! Perhaps it's why I couldn't spell the word museaum in my other thread below?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cleaning parts with turpentine? posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 4/25/2007 at 1:50:19 AM
Turpentine, eh? Hmmm.... I suppose that's OK for wiping stuff down... dunno... I for one, especially in the case of grimy chains and such.... like to soak stuff in parafin (that's "brit" for KEROSENE I believe). ;-)

As to the spelling of words.... This is the internet after all... and compared to some other forums I've been known to frequent, I daresay here, even the simplest of posts literally reek of eloquence.


Larry "Boneman" Bone

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cleaning parts with turpentine? posted by Chris on 4/25/2007 at 11:29:43 AM
Buddy said to me yesterday- "Are you nuts? Geeze we better get you a parts cleaner and he opened up this book and I will meet the supplier next week. There are set ways to do things for good reasons. I remember a former boss telling a co- worker not to smoke when checking the gasoline level in the underground tanks. "I want to go to the Fleetwood Mac concert this weekend!" he said. Then there was this silly debate about how you could drop a lit cigarette down the tube and into the gas tank and that it would just go out and not blow us all up. Scared me silly- I don't believe it. I think we were just very lucky. I would stop your pump if I saw a lit cigarette anyplace. The crafty ones would drop the cigarette, cover it with their foot, and pump the gas and then pick up the still lit cigarette and go on and smoke it. Also stupid cell phones are a problem due to the static electricity. I remember the neighbor next to the station firing off July 4th fireworks that went up, pop and there was a shower of sparks and the smoking bottle- rocket type thing came down, hit the gas tanker as it was unloading the gas into our tanks. It sparked and the gas tanker driver picked up this huge purple stick bottle rocket thing and with it smoking in his hand and he looked at me, asked if I would watch the truck as he went next door to have a word with the man firing off the fireworks. I heard him yelling at the man. "No I don't want a beer!" Listen, you nearly blew us all up and he's pointing at his uniform and screaming: "I deliver gasoline for a living!" It was July and the air was thick with the fumes and we were really lucky we were not playing our golden harps! I probably had bicycle parts in the parts cleaner that day also. Then there were the 2 little kids that lit the bathroom towel roll on fire! I put it out. Kid asks: You ain't gonna tell your boss or call the police? I said: "No much worse, I have to tell my boss's wife!" The police got there AFTER she got done with them. I remember her screaming at this 12 year old: "Do you know how many gallons are under this place??"- Glad I got out of the service station biz but I miss that parts cleaner. Now, that I think of it- the solvent took to long to work for little old impatient me and that's how I started using brake cleaner to degump brackets and hubs. The best parts cleaners vibrate the hub or whatever in the solvent.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cleaning parts with turpentine? posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 4/25/2007 at 5:28:39 PM
Some scary stuff there!!!

As to parts cleaners... I would imagine an ultrasonic solvent bath would simply be the best possible method. You get one of those... you'll be cleaning EVERYTHING in there.


Larry "Boneman" Bone

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cleaning parts with turpentine? posted by Chris on 4/26/2007 at 11:07:19 AM
The experiences would fill a book. It was never dull but you know what? I was quite fortunite that we were never robbed. Not the ideal job.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cleaning parts with turpentine? posted by Matthew on 4/26/2007 at 3:01:09 PM
Hey Chris,

sounds like you had more than your share of scares but cell phones don't do it, static electricity charges do. I saw an American research TV programme on a friends TV (we don't have one) and it showed categorically that a ringing, dialling or answered cell phone won't cause the accident you expect but the charge from your nylon track suit bottoms (leisure pants?) when you slide from the velour car seat and then touch the bodywork, that will blow you and the whole shooting match sky high.

Another urban myth is debunked.

Matthew - fuelled by enthusiasm.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cleaning parts with turpentine? posted by Chris on 4/27/2007 at 10:08:25 AM
You can generate painful shocks that way.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   '53 Superbe rides again! posted by: Geoff Rogers on 4/24/2007 at 9:43:16 AM
I took my ’53 Raleigh Superbe on what was probably its first ride in 30 years this morning. It was a beautiful western Massachusetts morning, temps about 65 and sunny, with a light breeze. The birds are going out of their minds, singing and looking for mates and things to make nests, and in the wetlands along the bike path the toads are doing their trills. I wondered if the ones I heard this morning were tadpoles last spring in the same pond. The bike was great. It’s one I bought on a business trip to England last fall at a car swap meet, a very original bike that had been stored for many years. The chrome had been sprayed with some product (the guy told me it was some sort of oil the previous owner put on everything to keep it from rusting) that had hardened and turned yellowish brown. The saddle was a newer junky thing that I did not bother to ship home. But the paint is original Raleigh Green, beautiful under the years of grime with very few scratches, the original Lucas bell is still fine, and it has some other neat original features, including a gearcase, FG four-speed Dynohub, head and tail lamps and dry battery unit, and perhaps best of all, a Sir Walter green plastic pump, which even works! I have spent several hours cleaning, lubricating, and replacing various worn bits, including replacing one crank arm, repacking the bottom bracket, cable clamps (I had some nice original chrome ones that were correct) and the front cable, which I borrowed from my ’55 Sports. I have a pair of very good original Dunlop tires from a ’54 Rudge, and relaced the front Taipei special with one of these and its original Dunlop Airseal tube and an original Schraeder valve cap with rubber protector on the end (you can make these from a bit of rubber tubing; that’s all the originals were!). I haven’t done the rear yet because removing a wheel with a gearcase is a procedure, and while I’m at it, I will have to do some work to the FG and the rim, so it will take a while and I am short on time these days. Last Friday I scored a 40s or 50s saddlebag with a little Sir Walter emblem on the cover, so I installed that after cleaning and applying Lexol to the straps and on Sunday an old friend picked up a 50s Brooks B66 saddle, the right one for the bike, with oval logo, so that went on this morning. The original cushion grips with RI logos just barely visible are still on the bike, still comfortable but getting pretty shabby, so I will be looking for some replacements; anybody know where to find some? The machine was a delight to ride, and all four gears work fine. It’s heavy and since it is so original and unspoiled, I don’t think I will use it much, but the old girl is a real joy to look at, as well as to use. I have spent a lot of time waxing that old green paint, and it looks just beautiful, along with the ALL STEEL BICYCLE and other transfers. I will post a picture when I get the rear rim shined up a bit more; it still has a lot of that brownish yellow stuff on it. I will look forward to riding home this afternoon (with a tailwind, no less!). We are lucky to share an appreciation of these lovely old roadsters; long may they roll on!
Geoff Rogers
Shutesbury, Massachusetts


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: '53 Superbe rides again! posted by Edward in Vancouver on 4/24/2007 at 6:38:50 PM
Have fun with the bike! I have one very similar to it, albeit with new Schwalbe whitewall tires.

The FG is fine as long as you leave it alone. However if you want to "tinker around" you'll get step-by step FACTORY instructions to dismantle and re-assemble the FG from Tony Hadland's site. Not much goes wrong with these hubs, but if you need parts like pawls or pawl springs, they are easily salvagable from an AW.

The one thing with almost every S.A. hub is cone adjustment, cone adjustment, cone adjustment. Even when removing the rear wheel for service or tire work, you have to be carefull about cone adjustment, the wheel has to have a little play, too tight and your pedals move when you coast, too loose and you risk bending the axle.

I've don alot with FG's including swapping the dyno out for a drum brake, converting it to an "8 spd" making custom gear cables (dead easy to do) and horror of horrors, refurbing the 4spd trigger which included sourcing the material and making a new spring for the trigger.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: '53 Superbe rides again! posted by Chris on 4/26/2007 at 11:15:29 AM
Every time I see my georgeously new Hercules Hercumatic shifter with the bad spring I think of Edward.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1963 Raleigh Sport headset bearing size? posted by: soytnly on 4/23/2007 at 8:52:10 PM
I just purchased my first 3 speed yesterday, a 1963 Raleigh Sport in fairly nice condition. Simple question, I think...what is the ball bearing size used in the headset? I haven't torn it down yet but will shortly and I'm going by a bike store tomorrow - I'd like to pick up enough to do the usual overhaul - thanks!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1963 Raleigh Sport headset bearing size? posted by Chris on 4/24/2007 at 9:43:41 AM
5/32 size bearings in the Raleigh Sports.
It's either 3/ 32 or 5/ 32. I need a smack ( not too hard) upside my head. Remove the top headset screwed race and bring it into the store. They will know.

You will need 50 loose ball bearings.

25 in the top and 25 in the bottom
phil wood grease (it's green) or whatever grease the shop has on hand will be fine.

After you have torn it down and scrubbed all the dried grease and cleaned it with steel wool and rinsed it you flip the bike over and smear in some grease in the channels and set in the ball bearings. the rule is to fill it up and remove one leaving a gap for one ball bearing. 25 per race. then you drop in the fork and hold it together with one hand.

Then you add 25 loose ball bearings into the top head cup screwed race (the part you are taking into the store) and you screw that into the fork from underneath. Then flip over the bike, tighten that screwed race again and add the lamp bracket or spacer disc usually it's some sort of lamp bracket and then the top nut and the over haul is done!
Rememeber, no play in the headset no wobble, bobble silly ness just sweet gentle turning don't over tighten.

These original Raleigh parts last a long time especially the heasets so what is original will likely be acceptable for this overhaul. If you want to go on e- bay and find original new, never used boxed parts then the bike will handle better but with a headset you should be fine.

keep in touch and we;ll walk you through the rest of the bike!

Raleigh headsets are nice and properly cared for they will outlast all of us as Sheldon Brown says. Speaking of Sheldon Brown go visit his site. go to old bikes section. Take your time. Like a good museaum it'll take awhile to see it all.

WANTED:   Brake pad posted by: clinton on 4/23/2007 at 4:21:14 PM
Hi folks, I have a '71 Raleigh 3 speed womens bike and I need one fibrax 269 chrome plated brake housing and pad.
A good used one would be great.Any idea where to find this item?

   RE:WANTED:   Brake pad posted by Chris on 4/23/2007 at 5:15:45 PM
The rubber brake pads get hard after time and loose their effectiveness and so I suggest that you use a modern, new from a bike shop set of bicycle brake pads/shoes in order to obtain the maximum amount of braking effeciency.
Safety first.

   RE:WANTED:   Brake pad posted by clinton on 4/23/2007 at 5:56:00 PM
Actually the bike stops very well now and I want to keep the bike as original as possible as is has had very little use and in pristine condition.

   RE:WANTED: Brake pad posted by Warren on 4/23/2007 at 6:42:55 PM
Front or rear? Rear has the tab/stop on it.

   RE:WANTED:   Brake pad posted by clinton on 4/23/2007 at 6:56:49 PM
It is the rear but mine do not have a stop other than one end is open. What I do have is a right and a left since the pad is bevelled to mate the rim.Maybe you just remove the pad and rotate it 180 degrees.

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Brake pad posted by Chris on 4/24/2007 at 9:48:41 AM
If Warren can't help you give me a shout as I save these in my stash.
I understand completely but I'm willing to forgo originality in favor of safety but..... as long as you are safe then go ahead.

   RE:RE:RE:WANTED: Brake pad posted by Warren on 4/24/2007 at 3:41:24 PM
I've only got sets with tabs.

Clinton, If the open end of the pad is oriented toward the front of the bike, reverse it.

   RE:WANTED:   Brake pad posted by clinton on 4/25/2007 at 10:58:21 AM
Chris, I have Emailed you a couple of pictures of the pads
in question. Thank-you


   RE:RE:WANTED:   Brake pad posted by Chris on 4/25/2007 at 4:46:44 PM
Pictures did not work but I have a lot of this brake stuff. Am searching tonight.

AGE / VALUE:   that rattling.... posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 4/23/2007 at 7:22:59 AM
STILL trying to remove that rattle from my chaincase. Got a BMX style chain(blue!) that is the same size as the old Regina chain but narrower with a much slimmer master link, and I've tweaked and fiddled with the chainase and elbow, but it's still there, that rattle. Heaved the bike up onto the my workbench-vise mounted frame holder, squatted on the ground and observed. The chain wheel is defineatly warped, maybe 1/8" out of true I've got another in my stash, chrome isn't so nice, but it won't be seen in the chaincase anyway.

Before breaking the chain, removing the wheel and then removing the chainwheel, how to I test my spare if it too isn't warped are bent?
Any suggestions?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   that rattling.... posted by Matthew on 4/23/2007 at 11:54:31 AM
Hi Edward,

You can straighten a bent chain wheel by closing the jaws of an adjustable spanner (wrench) over the bent section and truing it up against a datum on the frame (don't dis-member the BB). If you really want to replace the chainwheel then check the replacement by laying it ring side down on a flat surface that you know is true. Any deformity will be shown. You can check the axle is central and true by sliding it into the crank hole with the chainwheel down most and checking that the axle stands upright at 90 degrees.

Matthew - from any angle.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: that rattling.... posted by Edward in Vancouver on 4/24/2007 at 6:27:14 PM
Thanks. Guess I'll be using my tablesaw for this... It has a fairly flat cast iron surface that I can check the flatness of the chainwheel with.

Weird thing about chainwheels, the replacement is definaltly a Raleigh, judging by the chrome maybe early '60's and a 44 tooth, just like the other one, but it won't fit on the spindle. Don't want to risk screwing it up by taking a Dremel to the inside of it so as to fit the spindle, guess I'll have to find someone with a step-reamer and a drill press and go from there.