FOR SALE:   Vintage Daisybell posted by: Bill Barclay on 6/23/2007 at 12:35:15 PM
This BSA Lady,s Bike Is Near Immaculate condition {original }condition with 26 inch chrome wheels and believed original tyres, well tyres of the period anyway, Both MICHELIN. Would need Saddle as there is only part of the leather left, Cant believe the very good condition of Chrome on Wheels,and shine on frame when cleaned.
Carrier and chain case are Intact,slight rust on handlebars.
this bike is going as it is .no hidden extras .
Email me for pictures.


AGE / VALUE:   DIY gear cable posted by: sam on 6/23/2007 at 8:55:44 AM
Needed a S/A 3speed gear cable in Tandem length.Used a summit universal gear wire with the two different ends---snip off the hub end.For the S/A shifter that uses the small tube end I simply filed(drimel)the small end ---it fits and works great---the universal quick release swival attached the adj. barrle to the hub.Really not hard to keep an old english 3 speed on the road---sam

FOR SALE:   Raleigh Superbe posted by: Tom on 6/22/2007 at 7:06:58 PM
I have 2 bikes on Ebay now. I am selling some of my bikes as I have way too many. The 2 bikes are a 1974 Raleigh Superbe in almost perfect shape. It is all original. The other is a 1971 New Hudson that I bought new last spring at a bike shop closeout auction. It had not 1 mile on it when I bought it. It now has about 100 miles. It is one of the nicest British bikes you will find. 300122290452 300123657543 I hope they go to good homes.

   RE:FOR SALE:   Raleigh Superbe posted by andy on 6/26/2007 at 12:51:21 PM
Hey, you did pretty good on the Superbe auction! That's a good looking bike.

AGE / VALUE:   1936 Phillips posted by: Paul on 6/22/2007 at 10:37:21 AM
I have a 1936 Phillips that I am looking to find a rough value on. It is realtively complete but I would say a basket case . . Any help would be appreciated .

   RE:AGE / VALUE: 1936 Phillips posted by Warren on 6/22/2007 at 12:09:26 PM
"relatively complete" and "basket case" is $10 - $75 depending on what's missing and condition of chrome or nickel plate. And the type of bike. Pics are worth a thousand words.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Oil & Grease posted by: Mark on 6/21/2007 at 9:21:59 PM
This evening I overhauled an oil-lubed hub on a Raleigh Sports, my first hands-on exposure to oil-lubed hubs.

As I was working, I wondered: Why am I repacking the bearings with grease? Wouldn't the occasional dribble of oil tend to dissolve the grease?

Maybe the only reason to use grease is simply to hold the ball bearings in place during reassembly.

I don't get it - can you enlighten me?



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Oil & Grease posted by Drew on 6/22/2007 at 4:31:22 AM
I've found that grease holds up much longer then just oil and can handle serious riding better to protect the bearings. Oil will actually evaperate. If a bike is not ridden over time, grease does become dry. I recently found a 1951 French touring bike, all the grease was dry. I didn't want to take the whole bike apart, so I added a thick oil to all bearings(50 weight motor oil)- the crank, headset, wheels, etc. it mixed into the old grease and loosened everything up really well...sort of like when you add paint thinner to old paint that has gotten thick. If I were to ride this bike a lot, I would have repacked everything with fresh grease, but this bike only travels about 50 miles a year.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Oil & Grease posted by Mark on 6/22/2007 at 6:19:53 AM
Thanks for the response.

Does that mean I should forego the monthly oiling of my old raleigh hubs? Would I be better off just regreasing the hub bearings once a year and forget about the oil?

Dripping oil into the little oil hole seems so cool and retro, but maybe Raleigh made a bad design decision way back when . . .


   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Oil & Grease posted by Warren on 6/22/2007 at 12:15:13 PM
Grease is what bearings want except in old skool indoor track racing. They have a history of running oil only.

Semi-annual oilings of SA rear hubs are adequate for the gears only. Bearings are still packed with grease. Properly greased front hubs really don't need oil at all. That's why front oil ports went away. They do look cool though.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Oil & Grease posted by David on 6/22/2007 at 7:41:42 PM
I wouldn't think the oil in the SA hub would be likely to reach [and dissolve] the grease in the bearings. I thought it was added mostly to lubricate the gearing.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Oil & Grease posted by mark stonich on 6/23/2007 at 11:08:12 AM
The front hubs and BBs with the oiling port were meant to be greased. Once upon a time all greases were petroleum based. As the volatiles slowly evaporated, you would add oil through the oil port to refresh it. Not needed with modern soap or PolyUrea based greases.

The only place for grease on an old Sturmey hub was in the channels on the driver and the left ball cup. The wheel bearings were meant to be lubed by oil only. The grease in the channels acted as a non-contact seal. The oil will dissolve a petroleum based grease like Phil Wood, so don't use it in the channels. I did once and the wheel was an oily mess within 50 miles.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Oil & Grease posted by Warren on 6/23/2007 at 12:28:57 PM learn something every day. So lithium grease is the ticket for SA hubs?