| I would like to trade or buy the above 26 X 1 1/4 Dunlop rim. I have an excellent 36 hole example but need a 32 for a set or Airlight hubs. Stainless or chrome doesn't matter...thanks.|
| I rode 6 miles today and it was good and bad. At times I hated it and then it had it's moments where I was grinning and enjoyed it.|
First off, I hate the basic A.W. Sturmey- Archer 3 speed hub. Or shall I say, don't care for, as hate is too strong a word.
The Sturmey- Archer gear cable slipped thru the adjuster piece that couples with the Sturmey- Archer indicator chain. Being without tools on this ride with tools and parts locked up and inaccessable. I was in trouble.
I removed the cable and cable housing and wound it up and put it in my pocket. Got my hands all greasy. This rear wheel is an basic A.W.3 speed steel shell hub with a 24 tooth cyclo 3 cog.
Even though I had a 24 tooth rear cog it was too hard to pedal. I have a smaller front chainring. Original Raleigh Heron crank with the eyes in the heron. It's slightly smaller, an older crank I think it's a 42 tooth with the larger ones the newer ones being a 46 tooth.
Still too large a front steel crank and pedaling it was murder except on a straight, flat street.
It was hard to pedal, even with the tires pumped up hard.
This has the original steel rod brake handlebars from 1972. The bike is a 1972 model. They are not wide like the older models from the 1950's and you can't raise the stem up enough. The quill is not long enough. Even then, my right knee almost hits the handlebars. There is like 1/2 inch clearence.
I removed and sold the dare grips for a pal's customer and riding it without grips was aweful. I have another Dare set to go on the bike.
I was able to use the front rack on the bus but the rear wheel did not set right in the tracks because this 24 inch frame, 28 inch wheel, Raleigh Tourist D.L.1. is too large for the bus rack and the driver got nervous and asked me to adjust it. I fidgeted and assured him it would not come off the front of the bus. I'll have to carry a bungee cord. It sat in place but it's not like it's a 27 inch wheel bike.
When the gear cable slipped out and was removed the bike was only ridable in 3 rd gear and it really sucked. I remembered as I rode about like this I recalled Tony Hadland mentioning a old time 3 speed gear that when the cable was slack it was in low gear. Only with my 1972 hub it was in high gear. At times I had to walk the bike.
I was unable to locate a bread tie or a safety pin so the whole ride was in third gear. I hate 3 rd gear!
Now, after today's experience...
I have an improved indicator chain design in my head and at 3 am I could not sleep and got up to write this post and sketch it out.
This will eliminate the cable all together. Cables stretch, break, slip, and rust. The basic shifter and cable set up is not reliable.
Not to commute daily.
The bike got pressed into service without all the rod brake linkage being put back on the bike so I was riding without brakes which was very stupid of me. I use my feet and am careful and make do rather fine but It's still very dumb and I don't recommend it.
I'll get the parts back on it even though,
I dislike the 1970's rod brake linkage. It does not work well. Now, the older rod brake bikes had much better rod linkage. You can stop on a dime!
No fenders, they did not make it back on the bike, no rack, the bell came loose and I left it at home and was unable to warn a jogger except by calling out. So I missed having the bell.
I do have all new bottom bracket adjustable and fixed cups and a new spindle in place as well as a new original Raleigh headset. I am done riding anything that has worn parts. Plus a new original front hub and a N.O.S. A.W. 3 speed hub with all new races. I don't care what a seller asks for new, original Raleigh headsets, hubs cones, cups. e.t.c.
As long as it's in original boxes.
Now, geared down the bike would be usable but not in high gear.
The spoke nipples are rusty and the chrome on the Westwood rims is icky looking. This is a 1972 model bike. Still, looking at it with the sloping fork and frame geometry it does beg to be ridden.
I had a somewhat enjoyable ride none the less but that 3 speed hub being only in 3 rd gear had me dreaming of Sam Lingo's Bently Ghost with it's derailer gears instead of a 3 speed hub.
I have the Huret derailer, shifter, and like bits gear off of this 72 tourist so the 9 speeds were not usable and then with the cable a.w.o.l. it was only a 1 speed bike.
The cotter pins did not come loose. That's another thing that happens with these but not if you set them up right and I did.
Folks have problems with cotterless spindles especially with the new bikes.
Somebody needs to design and sell a smaller version of the Raleigh Heron crank. Something in polished alloy, smaller with fewer teeth perhaps only 35 tooth? Something that is a spitting image copy of the famous Raleigh heron cranks. With the eyes in the heron. A detail that got omitted in the late 1950's.
When I find a set of 28 inch alloy rims like Sam did with his Bently Ghost bike, I'll remove the rod handlebars and linkage and ride this bike as a cable brake bike.
The frame pump is off the bike and my pants caught the frame pump peg. I did not have my Terry's pants cuff clip and I missed it.
I did not have my Brooks B-90/ 3 but rather a B- 66 and so the seat was very uncomfortable and the seat post moved back and forth and the seat tilted back and up and as I rode I was fidgeting with it.
It was a screwy ride. Fustrating yet pleasent. I have to get the brakes back on it and sort out the gears. The idea for a new indicator chain design is rather new, and novel and very simple. The size cable that is used with the Sturmey- Archer 3 speed hubs is too thin.
I prefer the ladies frame D.L.1.'s over the mans frame bikes for some reason. I know it's weird of me but at least I have no desire to don a skirt and blouse and a hat with a ribbon.
It seems that no one has more fun than you, if not sleep!
| I'm 6 foot 5 and every now and then have trouble getting my leg over the 24 inch top bar. I don't like riding the smaller frame D.L.1 and I caught pants on the seat the other day. |
| You can put a baby seat on a ladies D.L.1. but it's too high up to be safe or practical or usable on the man's frame D.L.1.|
| ok, it's been set right. Now I just need brakes again...|
| My original Apollo needs a "cotter pin bottom bracket" according to my LBS. It works but slips as I put pressure on the pedal. His advice is to not touch it until I'm convinced I have the exact replacement. Any suggestions as to where these are found? Thanks, Carson|
| You need a set of 9.5 mm cotter pins.|
this would be a bicycle made by Phillips
so Phillips bottom bracket parts are what you are looking for.
Phillips is 24 t.p.i. threading
| Hi Guys - |
I am trying to tighten the brake bolts on my Raleigh Sports and I am faced with a dichotomy:
If I tighten the brake bolt nut to a good tightness (i.e., 70 inch-pounds), the brakes stop operating due the brake arms getting squeezed tightly together; if I loosen the nut enough to get good brake operation, well, that's only a bit more than finger tight.
What to do?
| Take the calipers apart, clean and lightly grease the mating surfaces. Eyeball the arms and brake bolt to ensure they are not bent out of shape although you'll likely want to (properly) rebend the arms to create toe-in for the shoes. Check your cables while you're at it. This should work.|
A 'dragging' cable won't help. This is an age old problem, best overcome by better quality calipers, centre pull brakes or very fine tuning. Follow Warren's advice and you won't go far wrong. I have had cable braked bikes which point blank refused to centre up and behave nicely. Even the best side pull cable brakes will always make contact with one side of the rim before the other. Thta's how the operate but in extreme circumstances an over tightend bolt will make the brakes stay on!
Take care and ride safe,
Matthew - riding the armchair too much!
| Follow Mathew's advice. Myself, I get fed up and I replace the brakes with something else. Preferrably, something alloy both the brake levers and the calipers too.|
Strange that I have acquired so many original spare parts both loose and boxed. Raleigh, Phillips and other original parts.
I change brakes unless they are the rod type. Then I catch it for not having a bike original come re- sell time.
Mathew was right on with his advice. Let us know how it turns out.
| Real Phillips brakes(pre 1960) are adjusted differently than Raleigh brakes. Raleigh brakes ride on a hollow boss,which slides over the screw, with fiber spacers between the left and right caliper. If the hollow boss wears from over tightning the brakes stick. You may be able to pull out a spacer to loosen them up.|
Phillips brake calipers ride on the screw. The part with the grouve that holds the spring is threaded. You adjust them by turning the screw to the proper tension, then mount the whole brake assembly on the bike. Use a screwdriver to keep the screw from turning and tighten the nut. Do not turn the screw as this will thghten and bind up the calipers, only tighten the nut. If the calipers are still too snug, loosen the nut and back off the screw a half turn, and retighten the nut. I prefer the Phillips brakes because you can compensate for wear.
| The hollow boss. I have a bunch of these. I agree, the Phillips brakes let you compensate for wear. They are neat, I do like them but I still replace them with Weinmanns or others. |
| Gents, I would dearly love to obtain a nice condition S/A 3-spd quadrant shifter for a fun project. My LBS is currently building up a wheel for me with a new aluminum 27" rim and one of my S/A AWs. We're three-speeding a Schwinn Continental and trying to give it some back-dated appearance while we're at it.|
Also, what about a Lauterwasser handlebar? Looks like a modern moustache but with an inch-or-two rise (or drop depending on which way you look at it). Like to find one of those as well.