ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Front axle washers posted by: Jim on 4/15/2008 at 5:05:10 AM
Hi, I'm new here, from the UK.
There qwas a discussuion a while back about rear axle washers on Raleith roadsters. I'd like know about front axle ones. Were they always smooth and flat or did they ever have corrugations on the inside?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Front axle washers posted by Steve on 4/15/2008 at 7:32:50 AM
I'm not sure about this, but I would like to think that they had corrugations on the inside, I always think they look far more businesslike than the plain washers.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Front axle washers posted by Jim on 4/16/2008 at 3:23:11 AM
I agree, but Raleigh, in the 1950s, certainly knew what they were doing, so I still wonder what they used.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Front axle washers posted by Martin Sanders on 4/21/2008 at 1:18:22 AM
Hi Jim.
I'm also from the UK, some of my 60/70's Raleighs have a sort of "top hat" washer on the front axle. what I mean by that is that the washer has a raised section on one side, this sits in an keyhole type slot in the fork so the axle slides in as normal but it is then located by the "top hat" washer that sits in the round section at the top of the slot, very secure and perfect alighment every time.

AGE / VALUE:   Thanks posted by: stephen hogben on 4/14/2008 at 9:18:35 AM
Thankyou for your help on my Rudge Whitworth ladies bike! I am restoring it at the moment,unfortunatly i cannot afford re-chroming so wheels are being being painted black.this bike would not have survived much longer so even if I am not re-storing it wrongly it will still be around for a few more years!It will join my 1958 Hercules and my 1934 Philips.more and more people keep trying to give me old bikes,latest is a claude-butler racer!Thanks again.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Thanks posted by Chris on 4/16/2008 at 8:56:55 AM
Sve your money. The rechrome rims will not match. Find an original set of wheels with original finish pay for new, old, stock rims.

The lazy sons of bitches at the plate shops don't do the required amount of polish and prep work, don't clean the tanks and the chemicals are not the same as back in the day.

Search about and find a new old set.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Thanks posted by Pete on 4/18/2008 at 3:01:34 AM
I'd go for a used pair of stainless rims.They do turn up on fleabay occasionally.They have a nice not over shiney look about them that looks the part on an older bike.I was lucky enough to aquire a 28 inch pair of Dunlop WO stainless rims that I am saving for that special bike.
I fully agree with the other comments about rechroming,,nothing these days is done like it used to be and you will not be happy with the results.Even new rims these days just aint the same.Another case of price over pride.
Chers Pete.

MISC:   Dunelt Fleur-de-Lys Advice Needed posted by: Geoff Rogers on 4/14/2008 at 7:28:58 AM
This isn't a roadster, but it is British and much of it is related to 3-speed stuff, so I will ask you Brit cycle experts for some iformation about it. Last week at the Copake swap meet I acquired a nice old Dunelt lighweight, and I am trying to find out more about it. It has a Reynolds '531' sticker, partly scraped off, but you can tell that '531' was diagonal, and on the bottom right corner are the letters "...TED," "...KS," and "...YS." Does this mean it's a double-butted frame, including forks and stays? I heard from another Fleur-de-Lys owner who claims his was straight-gauge 531, main tubes only. Mine was built in Birmingham, so I am guessing it was made before the Raleigh-TI merger in 1960, or did they keep building lighweights for a while in Birmingham after the merger? The bike has Benelux levers but a Campy Gran Sport rear derailleur, which was retrofitted, I suspect. There is no front derailleur. Brakes are "Grand Prix". Anybody ever heard of them? They look period aluminum, like a GB sidepull. The gears are very close. Can I get a wider set of rear cogs? I assume it's s Cyclo freewheel; do they interchange with something a little easiser to find? I have a front Gran Sport derailleur, which I will probably install, if I install anything at all up there. Can I get a smaller lower front chainwheel for the Williams setup? I think it's 49/52, which is pretty useless unless you are a much better cyclist than I and riding on flat stuff. We have hills here. Anyhow, I am very pleased with the machine. It's pretty decent, not many scratches, nice 27" Dunlope Lightweight rims, and with a little maintenance and some ratio-swapping, I think it will be a nice ride. So now my Mercier with butted 531 frame, Campy hubs, Super Champ 27" rims, Mafac CP brakes, etc. is for sale. It's charteuse, very loud! Rides great. Any ideas about value would be helpful.
I am a 3-speed guy, but I am enjoying learning about lightweights.
Geoff Rogers

   RE:MISC: Dunelt Fleur-de-Lys Advice Needed posted by Matthew on 4/14/2008 at 8:41:38 AM
Hi Geoff,

I think you are correct with your Ted Ksys. You may get a bit more learned help on the vintage lightweights DB 'cos you're almost speaking a foriegn language to us heavyweight chaps.

The Grand Prix brakes may well be GB, I recall seeing them on other machines.

I like your reference to charteuse being rather loud, it reminds me of a Louis Jordan song, 'When you dyed your hair charteuse.'

Matthew - onward and upward

   RE:MISC: Dunelt Fleur-de-Lys Advice Needed posted by Warren on 4/14/2008 at 5:34:18 PM
I've heard of one other high end Dunelt racer and it was post 60. Nice score. Does it have the tell-tale rear mudguard braze-ons behind the axle like standard Raleighs?

There's a discussion of a Renolds chromed Dunelt with campy components in the archives here... http://oldroads.com/arch/ENG2002_8_1110_00_22_PM.html

Your bike resembles a Raleigh Gran Sport or Lenton from the early 60's. They had Gran Sport drivetrains, GB brakes, Lightweight 27's and steel half step double chainrings too.

The 3 pin Williams chainrings do come up on ebay but I suspect yours has the circle patterns on it? They can be hard to find. Maybe not with the ratio you'd like. Keep looking.

   RE:MISC: Dunelt Fleur-de-Lys Advice Needed posted by Geoff Rogers on 4/14/2008 at 5:47:06 PM
I don't think Raleigh had anything to do with this machine. The badge reads, "BIRMINGHAM" and the mudguard braze-ons are above the axle (I think--I left it at the LBS to have its freewheel removed so I can get a few more teeth back there, as I have no freewheel tools, being a Sturmey-Archer kind of guy). Do you suppose an inner chainring from, say, a Raleigh Grand Prix or Sprite would fit the Williams bolt pattern? I have some of those in the boneyard. Also, my LBS says I can't use the Campy derailleur with a 28-tooth cog. Any thoughts? He loves old stuff, but says, fit a modern derailleur, and keep the old Cyclo freewheel and Campy derailleur stored in a labelled box. I have experience with this, like the MGA engine I replaced with an MGb one, or the steering box from my old Jag that I replaced with a modern rack. Keep it, label it, but use the machine and enjoy it. Many thanks,

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Lower gearing cogs posted by: Alf Fickensher on 4/12/2008 at 5:33:56 AM
This really pertains to a thread at least half a page down but I know it'd get lost there so this is how I'll bring the subject back to the top.

Because of my age and riding style, just as a matter of course I gear every SA 3-spd I build with a Shimano 22 tooth cog and the usual 48-or-46 tooth chainring that came with the bike. I'm referring to 2 Raleighs, an Austrian SA clone, a '60s-era American-built "pretender", and several Schwinns. That relatively low gearing has proven perfect for my recreational parkway path and urban street riding.

I did build one SA Schwinn (a Continental with 27" wheels) to use a 39 tooth chainring and my usual 22T cog and there again, the even-lower ratio is fine for that particular bike.

So if you're able to be content with a low top speed, using larger cogs is a very practical gearing solution. The Shimano 22T that I use is readily available at any bike shop that gets their stuff from QBP (QUALITY BIKE PARTS, a ubiquitous wholesaler).

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Lower gearing cogs posted by Ed on 4/12/2008 at 4:49:31 PM
Yes I do the same for my bicycles. I live in a flat land area and find this a good ratio. Ed

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Lower gearing cogs posted by Larry P on 4/12/2008 at 5:53:43 PM
Alf - thanks for the feedback. When you changed to a 23 tooth sprocket, how did you handle the chainguard? Looking at a pic of a 23 tooth sprocket, it almost looks as though the chainguard would have to be removed.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Lower gearing cogs posted by al fickensher on 4/12/2008 at 7:24:31 PM
Larry, those Shimanos I use are 22-tooth. So far I haven't had any chain guard issues with the 22s. Schwinn, Raleigh, Steyr, and a 1967 higher-end Huffy built with a SA AW as a gas station company Christmas promotional bike each handled the diameter of the 22T just fine.

Now, I do have a 25T that did cause an issue but I fabricated a short aluminum bracket to extend the rear chainguard mount about 3/4" higher and it fit OK. I didn't care for the appearance tho so I went back to the 22T and normal chainguard mount.

AGE / VALUE:   rudge whitworth posted by: stephen hogben on 4/12/2008 at 5:01:01 AM
sorrey, not a raleigh it is a rudge whitworth.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   rudge whitworth posted by David on 4/13/2008 at 6:44:50 AM
I'm not sure when Raleigh absorbed Rudge, but you should be able to determine if yours is a real Rudge or Raleigh-built.
(mid 50s I think) See sheldonbrown.com

   RE:AGE / VALUE: rudge whitworth posted by Matthew on 4/13/2008 at 1:28:15 PM
That's no surprise as Rudge Whitworth held a Royal Warrant to supply bicycles to the Royal family.

The Whitworth name was lost pre-WW2 I think.

Matthew - Its an English thing.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   rudge whitworth posted by LarryP on 4/24/2008 at 1:50:02 PM
Regarding the above question from David on Raleigh's acquisition of Rudge: 1943. I think that production was moved to Nottingham shortly thereafter.

Larry P