FOR SALE:   Sunbeam brake blocks for sale posted by: David Poston on 7/7/2008 at 7:02:12 AM

For you rare Sunbeam owners, here are some NOS brake blocks...

I have a bunch of other parts I need to clear out of my garage, so feel free to contact me if you need anything.

AGE / VALUE:   Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 7/5/2008 at 4:18:16 AM



Larry "Boneman" Bone - no golden tuchus for me!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by JDuck on 7/5/2008 at 10:45:52 AM
Wow is right! I would sell mine at that price. I could get a nice new B-66 or 67 and have change left over.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by Matthew on 7/6/2008 at 1:29:09 PM
B72 was first featured in the 1935 catalogue. It is a light weight touring saddle with unique loop springs incorporated within the saddle, one of the first suspension systems patented by J.B. Brooks back at the end of the 1800's.

You can buy one Brand New, from for £62.99. Why buy second hand for nearly the same price? Barking mad bidding!

By the way the seller of the aforementioned item seems to have a vast stock of vintage spares at non-ridiculous prices.

Matthew - I have some punctured vintage innertubes to sell.


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 7/7/2008 at 10:59:14 AM
Matthew.... are the tubes vintage with vintage punctures? Or are the punctures more recent?

I've seen the "Honey" coloured Brooks Saddle on Ebay that sell "Buy It Now" for about the same as that...

P.T. Barnum..... smiles at him from the grave...


Larry "Boneman" Bone - Saddle me not with usorios pricing....

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 7/7/2008 at 11:02:27 AM
Drat... thats' usUrious.....

I must have been thinking uxorious when I was typing it out.

Either one... to be avoided at all cost....


Larry "Boneman" Bone - the danger of quasi-homonyms.....

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by Steve on 7/7/2008 at 12:58:14 PM
My Collins Concise Dictionary Plus complete with extensive encyclopedic entries, 1600 pages and a large gravy stain, has just imploded !

Steve - some tubes I ride on, get flats...not punctures ?

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by Matthew on 7/8/2008 at 2:43:24 PM
A Flat is the resulting shape of a tyre when the innertube (or tyre itself) have been punctured. So to be a pedant, or to pedal pedantry, a flat is the result, a puncture is the cause. Unless like Steve you suffer a flat with no puncture, in which case you have suffered a leak. Then of course there are butyl tubes which are porous and leak by nature, literally. Cheap tubes may just be poor as #%*&@ rather than porous.

Matthew - holding a pennant for the pedant

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 7/9/2008 at 2:29:59 AM
I've had "flats" that resulted from tubular fulmination as well... :-O

Excellent observations Matthew!


Larry "Boneman" Bone - fulminating at the mouth yet again.....

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by Steve on 7/9/2008 at 2:54:53 AM
It's no use...I'm going to have to get a real dictionary, this bike game is tricky !

Funny thing is...I often travel on the London Underground "tubes", and sometimes they really do suffer with flats (caused by wheel slip) drives me mad (madder) !

Steve - well worn


   RE:AGE / VALUE: Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by Matthew on 7/9/2008 at 10:32:17 AM
Madder - a red dye made from Madder roots.

I kid you not!

Matthew - lexographical leap frog

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by Steve on 7/9/2008 at 11:21:02 AM
Hi Matthew,
That's the beauty of the English language...for what are Wordsworth !
Anyhow, back to bikes...does the word "Brampton" mean anything to anyone.
I realise there's a Brompton on the scene, but this is Brampton (tiny letters at the top of the BB cup) and Made in England (tiny letters at the bottom of the cup).

The remains of the so-called Mohawk trade bike (I mentioned it a few posts back) yielded just one name and this it...faintly stamped into the bearing cup.
Just curious to know if they ever made complete bikes or were just a parts supplier...I'm keeping a log on things that go through my hands.
Apologies for veering of course from the original subject matter.

Steve - time for Lasagne.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by Matthew on 7/10/2008 at 10:59:27 AM
Brampton made the bottom bracket, not the bike. Sorry Steve.

Matthew - mash and mince for me (and that's not the way I walk!)

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Well worn B72 bid up to ] $100????? posted by Steve on 7/10/2008 at 2:02:55 PM
Oh well, never mind.

The frame (which isn't really very good) will have to remain one of lifes many mysteries !

Steve - thanks

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh trade bicycle question posted by: Jim McCarty on 7/4/2008 at 7:09:40 PM
I just bought an old Raleigh trade bike with rod brakes, extra-heavy Leatheries saddle, 26" wheels, special trade bicycle frame and bolt-on tubular steel frame for the delivery basket.
I have a two questions:
Did the fenders come with wire fender braces?
Are the spacers for the upper basket bracket made of thin-wall steel tubing, like the spacers on the bottom bracket? The upper ones that are on it now are heavy, octagonal, and threaded on the inside. They don't look right but I don't want to replace them if they are.
Thank you.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh trade bicycle question posted by Steve on 7/5/2008 at 1:52:32 AM
The spacers I have here for the brackets on a Raleigh are made of sturdy steel circular tubing and are not threaded on the inside.
The only threading is on both ends of the rod that goes through the spacers in order to secure the basket frame tightly to the main framework.

As for fenders/mudguards, there seems to be two basic types of fender supports/braces...flat steel and circular rod profile.

These bikes were produced over many years so I guess that there could/will be changes in manufacturing design, having said that...your upper spacers do sound a little odd (whatever you do, don't throw them away)!

I'll try and post a photo later.

Steve - off to work (real work) !

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh trade bicycle question posted by JIm McCarty on 7/5/2008 at 4:47:30 AM
Thanks, Steve -- This is a great old bike, but I suspected that the octagonal pieces were replacements. I have flat fender braces now, but they have been lengthened so I think I'll go with the traditional wire braces. If you could post a photo of your spaces and braces, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks again.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh trade bicycle question posted by Steve on 7/5/2008 at 12:25:27 PM
If the octagonal pieces are not original, it would be quite easy to replace them with some sturdy pipe cut to the appropriate size (there's no need to thread them on the inside).
See photo attached.

I'll try and dig the bike out tomorrow to get a decent photo, it is fitted with the traditional wire braces that are threaded on the ends (for mudguards/fender adjustment).

I do have flat lengthy fender braces fitted to a Hercules trade bike, they look perfectly good and sturdy but I really don't know if they are original.



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh trade bicycle question posted by Steve on 7/5/2008 at 12:38:32 PM
Whilst I was relaxing drinking my cup of tea, it suddenly dawned on me that you could have a differnt shaped basket carrier to the one(s) I've got here !
Post a photo if you can.

Those threaded octagonal bits don't quite make sense to me, I'm sure someone will yell out if they are a priceless gem from yesteryear !



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh trade bicycle question posted by Jim McCarty on 7/6/2008 at 1:50:08 AM
Steve -- Your basket bracket is the same as mine, but mine has spacers at the top and bottom. Your spacers for the bottom appear to be identical to mine -- simple, short pieces of steel tubing. I can't imagine why they would have used octagonal stuff for the top spacers.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh trade bicycle question posted by Steve on 7/7/2008 at 9:48:20 AM
Sorry about the commitments and horrendous downpours (in July) !

Photo not great but should suffice, the ends are threaded on the Raleigh photo as opposed to continious and flat steel riveted to the mudguards on the Hercules photo (see readers rides picture 12.jpg for comparison).

Steve - hope it's of use.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh trade bicycle question posted by Jim McCarty on 7/8/2008 at 3:38:54 AM
Thanks a lot, Steve -- that was just what I needed. I have a junk set of fenders that I can cannibalize to get the rod-type fender braces for the fenders on the bike.


ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   resoration advice posted by: Spencer Howell on 7/2/2008 at 6:03:23 PM
I have a Raleigh "bobby style" bicycle with rod brakes, full chain enclosure, 28 inch wheels, and a B-33 saddle(I looked it up on the Stanford Brown website) which bears the label "Raleigh" rather than "Brooks". It is a single speed bike. I bought this cycle in Nassau, Bahamas, new in the early 1980's and have ridden it sparingly since I walk the treadmill for exercise. I enjoy using it and would like to learn more about its maintenence and upkeep. Its serial number stamped on the saddle post tube is KS80004Z.
I have an English friend who tells me that its nickname when he was a kid was "sit up and beg" because of the relatively low position of your hands on the handlebar. In fact, I often hit the handlebar with my knees when I am turning while pedaling and had thought to ask about trying to find a handlebar which would have the mounts for the rod brakes which had the actual handlebars splayed out slightly as other Raleigh bikes were; mine seem to be parallel and are quite narrow. Of course, I would ask about a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub and wheel and whether it would be foolish to install a gear shift at this time or not.
those are my two questions. I will order your VVVintage clean up kit because I notice some rust pits on my cranks. Are some of the decals available or a working pump, mine was black originally.
Any help would be appreciated, particularly whether this bike sat in the shop in Nassau for some years or was made more recently. Somewhere it says, All Steel Bicycle, and of course Nottingham, England.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   resoration advice posted by Chris on 7/2/2008 at 6:52:04 PM
These were sent all over the world from Nottingham, England but the last ones were sent out in 1987. The bike has been sitting in Nassau.

You have come to the right place. You'd be amazed and stunned at all the interest in these bikes in all their various versions, colors, and accessories.
Can you take a picture for us? I will post again here tomorrow but we have these best and wisest group here to help you with anything imaginable having to do with these bikes. People from all over the world, walks of life, experiences and vast pool of talents, parts and historical enriched advice!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   resoration advice posted by spencer on 7/3/2008 at 1:31:06 PM
thanks for the message, Chris. I do not have a digital camera but when my son comes home we will snap a few shots to post. The bike is black with white trip on the rear fender. I asked about decals because by grabbing the upright tube to invert the bike when retightening the rear wheel rods I buggered up part of the Raleigh Decal (the symbol is surrounded by gold colored outlining.
I do remember removing the rear part of the chain cover and seeing that the rear sprocket was stamped "made in Nigeria" which suprised me somewhat in that I did not know whether these were totally made in Nottingham or just what.
When riding, there seems to be some roll resistance in comparison to other modern bikes I have used. Might bearing lubrication serve to lessen this. We have a good local bike shop and I had thought to have a lube job done on the bearings in the wheels, the crank shaft, and the chain which I have always been reluctant to dissasemble. My bike came with a small leather bag which held tools. Its quality was not the same as the saddle and one of its straps has broken. I am considering purchasing one of the vinyl bags mainly for looks since I probably would not carry anything there and my bike has a luggage rack over the rear wheel and fender.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   resoration advice posted by Chris on 7/3/2008 at 6:40:52 PM
Raleigh had a assembly shop/ factory in Kano, Northern Nigeria. Does your badge say Nottingham or South Africa?
The African Raleigh's were completely magical.....


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: resoration advice posted by Matthew on 7/3/2008 at 10:39:19 PM
H Spencer,

Have you tried carefully raising the handlebars? A slighter raise may get them out of the range of your knees.

Loosen (no more than a couple of turns) the nut in the centre of the handlebars. Hit it with a hammer! This will loosen the cone shaped wedge in side the head tube, which holds the handlebars. Loosen the nuts on the two brake rods, just in front of the headbadge, this will allow the rods to 'stretch'. Now wriggle the handlebars upwards. BE CAREFUL, there are limit marks on the vertical steerer tube of the handlebars, do not extend the 'bars beyond the 'safe limit' mark. This may alleviate the handlebar change and leave your bike in a more original state.

The three speed rear wheel conversion is relatively simple. !st find a bike fitted with SA three speed (and rod brakes) then canabalise all the required parts; complete rear wheel, cable, brackets, gear selector etc and fit them to your bike.

Transfers are probably available from Nick Lloyd at Lloyds Cycles, look them up on the web.

Matthew - Raleigh the world over.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   resoration advice posted by spencer on 7/5/2008 at 11:56:05 AM
Thanks for the helpful information. I have done what Matthew has suggested, raised the handlebars, and have oiled the saddle.
The name plate on the front of the steering tube says: Raleigh, Nottingham England although, as described in Sheldon Brown's information the bike with its particular model saddle was designed for third world markets with the heavier sprung saddle (B 33).
I will clean up my pump and try to improvise straps for my tool bag and then nearly everything will be original. I continue to discover new things...the rear fender bracket is broken and in years past I had used a plastic tie down to cinch things back together. What do you think about using lock tite on the nuts to keep them in place.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: resoration advice posted by Matthew on 7/6/2008 at 9:53:59 AM
Hi Spencer.

Loctite (TM) is a bit severe. Why not use spring washers or a similar anti-rattle fitting.

Matthew - stick to it!

AGE / VALUE:   brakes posted by: SH on 7/2/2008 at 4:33:18 PM
Noticed that the back brake blocks on my Hercules (about 1962) I think! are worn out.My earlier bikes have rectangular steel brake block retainers,but on the Hercules they are round,or tubular.Front brakes are as earlier models.Where can I get the round ones? Any ideas? Ta.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   brakes posted by Steve on 7/3/2008 at 12:16:00 PM
Out of all the "basket cases" I've stripped during the last twelve months or so, none have come with the circular profile shoe.
I do have one bike here with these shoes hence I posed a similar question many months ago...something along the lines of...what's the reason for this shape shoe ?
It remains a mystery to me unless someone would like to comment !

I think I cut some blocks to shape in order to fit them, my wife threatened to sever my reproduction faculties if she ever caught me using her best kitchen chopping board again !

I can only presume that you keep looking...auctions/sales/tips etc etc.

Steve - taking a break.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: brakes posted by Matthew on 7/3/2008 at 10:43:25 PM
Never mind the quality, feel the width!

When it comes to stopping, originality is quaint but good quality brake blocks are more important than original shape.

I have rarely come across the round profile blocks but I haven't been especially impressed by them. Fit new and good quality blocks then keep an eye out for some original looking blocks.

Matthew - stop, stop, STOP!