| It's not that funny really, I just thought it a little odd.|
The beauty of finding old wrecks is that you never quite know what to expect until you start to scratch below the surface.
I was about to clean up an ancient 3/16" chain off an Elswick Hopper the other day, on looking for the split link, I noticed not one...not two...not three...not four...not five...but SIX split links in which to choose from !
I thought Christmas had arrived early.
Funny thing is, I've been scouring motorbike shops over recent months asking them to search out the backs of their drawers in the hope of finding 3/16" split links that they maybe used to use on mopeds back in the dark ages.
I managed to obtain ONE...they actually call it a "415"
Now I've got SIX in one hit, is this a record or is this fairly common to you gents who've been involved in this game for longer than me.
I've dealt with approximately thirty five bikes this last twelve months and the most split links I've ever come across in one chain is TWO.
I've since found out that some heavy duty BMX bikes also use 3/16" chain, hence I no longer have to bother the motorbike boys, still enjoyed finding SIX in one chain though.
Steve - content
| I've oft heard that someday, someone would find the "missing link"... but SIX of them?|
Well DONE, sir! Impressive!
Larry "Boneman" Bone - half a dozen even!
| I had split links for derailer chain it came in a small plastic bag with a red card. I forget the name of the maker.|
I was forever finding weird things like this.
| Hi Folks,|
Further to some discussion below about parts cleaning. Here are my thoughts.
Petrol - No, No and double No. For so many very obvious reasons.
(Methylated spirit - wood alcohol should be treated similarly)
Parafin - well it won't improve your good looks or your soft hands and it has a low flash point. Don't try Boom Boom shake de room! (I think you say Kerosene in the States?)
Diesel - (aka Gas Oil) Not so good as a cleaner, less tricky than the above but quite good for parts soaking if bits are seized together.
White Spirit - Will do the job but can be difficult to get rid of and isn't good for your hands.
Parts cleaner solvent - many different brands. Keep your hands out of it, wear gloves and follow the instructions. Use it in a parts cleaner if you have one.
Gunk - yes that is the trade name. Use cautiously, it does work but it washes off with water, not so good if there is a chance of rust at a later date and the waste is difficult to catch before it gets to the drains.
With all of the above please dispose of them carefully. Not down storm water or foul water drains, Never into streams, ditches or other water courses. (In UK and EU you could face prosecution).
The cheapest and most simple small parts washer is a baby milk tin with a resealable lid. Get and empty tin, clean it out, put in the parts to be washed, put in a little of your chosen cleaning fluid (see notes above), fit lid tightly and shake. Other resealable tins will work too, drinks thickener etc etc.
Matthew - lecture over, class dismissed.
I like to use less-toxic degreasers. In the States we have Simple Green (some kind of ester that claims to be biodegradeable) and Citrasolv (a synthetic turpentine touted as "green"). These are both water-based. They do an admirable job of removing stubborn grease at full strength, but can be diluted.
Disposal is less of an issue than petrol-based solvents. And I don't worry as much about poisoning myself or blowing up my bike barn. Still take precautions.
I think most cyclists use this stuff to clean their chain, followed by a thorough dry time and lubrication. I've had good luck with Boeshield T-9. Goes on wet, drys waxy. Dirt doesn't stick to my chain!
For internal hub parts, I'm still experimenting. It makes sense that kerosene would be good to clean with. It wouldn't remove all the oil film like a degreaser would. But I don't like the toxic side of it.
So, for really dirty parts, I scrub with a copper scrub mesh called a Chore Boy. Doesn't scratch chrome. Doesn't leave little bits all over like steel wool. If the part is still greasy, I use a little citrasolv full strength. Wash and dry it right away. Then I just use 20 weight cycle oil to clean it. Put back together and ride!
This is from Marco at hubstripping.com - an internal gear enthusiast in Switzerland:
"When you “strip” a old hub you should disassemble it into it´s major parts and clean all parts with standard bicycle oil and tabs. Use no degreaser because this would destroy the oil- and lubricating films of the different parts. A result would be a increasing mechanical wear of slide bearings."
I'm not sure what a tab is. Maybe "tap"?
| Disobey the professor and there will be real, serrious consequences the least of which you will be saying "cog" instead of "sprocket"|
Really, I have heard horror stories about people cleaning parts the worng ways.
| I have a '73 Raleigh Superbe 3-speed that has a noise coming from the hub as I ride. Every nine revolutions, it clicks once per revolution for three revolutions, then does the cycle again. The loudness of the "clicks" is directly proportional to the pressure on the pedals.|
Other than that, the hub works fine. No slipping and positive shifts. I've never disassembled one of those hubs, but am OK with doing it. Can anyone give me a clue as to what to look for? Is this a common problem? Will I need special tools?
| If it happens in all gears I would look first at the ball cages by undoing the bearing cones far enough to see if you have a cracked ball.|
If you have access to a fairly strong vice you can take the left end plate off (left hand thread). Remove the RH cone and driver with sprocket. Undo the end plate and lift the wheel so that the gear internal is upright in the vice.
As it is over 40 years since I have done this I hope the memory is OK.
If you can't move the LH end plate, the RH is right hand thread 2 start, and you mark the hub and end plate before you start. Used to take these off with a flat ended chisel and a light hammer, rapid light hits. Never failed.
| I found this maker of willow baskets for trade bikes. Aren't they loverly?|
| Well spotted Kevin.|
I was going to forward the address (but had to dash to work) !
Theres some wonderful pictures of bikes on this site (even if you hate wicker) !
| Hi Kevin,|
That just goes to confirm that this DB is a meeting of great minds. I had found the same site when search 'delivery bicycles' on the web. What you didn't mention was the rather good conversion that Mr Hembrow can supply to make (almost) any bike into a delivery bike. I have not seen his work in real life but if it is as good as the photos then it is a treat. Also worth watching is the video of how he makes a basket.
Matthew - great minds think alike.........(fools seldom differ?)
| Actually, his delivery system looks very similar to similar mountings we see here on bikes in China. Perhaps a bit more robust.|
Here is a Forever that is so equipped.
| Matthew --|
I'm glad you spotted the brackets for sale. I was so fascinated by the beautiful baskets that I overlooked them.
Any true delivery bike puts the load on the frame and keeps it off the handlebars and front forks. The conversion brackets do just that. They would certainly make hauling a heavy load much safer than using a basket that attaches to the front axle and the handlebars.
| eBay Item number 310085382110 |
I think it is over priced but this may enable some one to complete a restoration and the seller will ship to US of A.
I have no idea who the seller is so I am not implicated in any pecuniary interest regarding this iem.
Matthew - above board.
| That is quite nice. As to price... a little high but if I had the machine it went to and needed it, not an insurmountable sum for certain.|
Alas, I don't own a Triumph... particularly a pre-Raleigh machine. I've seen a few Triumphs here in the States though... and not a single one... that lovely colour.
Larry "Boneman" Bone - start with the chaincase... the rest is EASY.