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Archived: Customs, Lowriders, HPV, Recumbent, etc.

AGE / VALUE:   swing bike fenders and seat posted by: la on 7/23/2000 at 5:09:14 PM
looking for seat and set of fenders

LOWRIDERS:   hey any one from colorado posted by: hyperboy on 7/19/2000 at 1:23:24 AM
hey i am from loveland colorado
i just started a bike club
i have six shwinns
but i found a frame and i dont no what it is
it my next project. so if if any one from colorado
wants to trade parts or chat let me no send an email
hyperboymc@hotmail.com. thanks

MISC:   CB750 chop posted by: AmmoOlly on 7/18/2000 at 10:06:25 PM
Can anyone out there help a guy out .. I'm lookin for the part number for after market roller bearings for the neck in my 70 CB750 ... cant seem to find anything from the local Honda dealer .. anything would help .. thanks ..

LOWRIDERS:   frame posted by: cronic on 7/13/2000 at 10:25:03 PM
I want to know they put the sheet metal on the frame for more style is it just sheet metal guestions anybody if you have my answer email me at studmuff54@hotmail.com thanxs

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   frame posted by JimW. on 7/23/2000 at 11:34:57 AM
The basic reasons behind brazing sheet metal into a frame
are both related to style. It allows making the frame more
sculptural, using bondo and provides more surface area for custom painting. There is no functional purpose for it,
especially since it adds considerable weight to the frame.

LOWRIDERS:   I am almost done with my lowrider posted by: TheLOWdown on 7/11/2000 at 2:12:56 PM
hey, i am almost done with my lowrider and i used an old mongoose frame and it is coming out nice, some of the parts were painted and chrome underneath and i got all the paint off and i want to leave the parts chrome but i don't know how to protect them from rusting or getting funky? can someone tell me any ideas that they have? would clear coat be a good choice?? and post your response or e-mail me at Low_Ridez_Kid@goplay.com

thanks TheLOWdown

   RE:LOWRIDERS:  chrome posted by JimW. on 7/12/2000 at 11:54:01 AM
The best thing to do to keep chrome from rusting is to wax it
and keep it clean. Storing it out of the weather is also a given.
Clean is most important, as dirt will hold moisture and may
contain its own corrosive elements (salts, etc.)Clear coating
is a bad idea on a chrome finish, as it doesn't stick well to
a shiny chrome surface. It will start looking bad (milky, peeling) very quickly,
and you'll want to strip it off again. Chrome will hold up very well if it's
kept clean and dry.

   RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:  chrome posted by TheLOWdown on 7/13/2000 at 11:26:23 AM
hey thanks for the clue, my clear coat was looking good for a while, but then it did get milky and started to peel so i did strip it off and then i started to wax it and it came out nice, i took what i had so far to a show last night and it was a head turner and it didn't even have the fork on it yet it was just a straight bmx fork and it also only had the bannana seat on it. it looked good. i am getting parts on Monday from lovely lowrider but i am just waiting anyhoo thanx and 1 more thing, i have a seat post that is bent, it has like an angle at the top and i wanted to know if i could cut it and make it straight??(it is in better shape in terms of chrome) thanx for the advice and keep it LOW

   RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:  chrome posted by JimW. on 7/16/2000 at 12:38:47 AM
I'd recommend just getting a new, straight seatpost. The post necks down to a smaller diameter where the seat clamps
to it. If you cut off an angled seat post, it'll probably be too big to fit the seat clamp.

LOWRIDERS:   Done!!!!! posted by: Sebastian on 6/29/2000 at 6:09:48 AM
Hey, I finished my LowBike.
Go, check out http://bastis.lowriderbike.de .......


LowStylez!Hamburg, Germany

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   Done!!!!! posted by JimW. on 6/30/2000 at 6:44:31 AM
That looks really good. The rear fender treatment is especially fine,
and the frame filling and sculpting are very tasty.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   Done!!!!! posted by Oscar on 7/9/2000 at 6:45:44 PM

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   Done!!!!! posted by TheLOWdown on 7/10/2000 at 11:59:20 AM
yo, your bike is pretty cool good use with the rear fender and try tipping your bars forward and it adds a feeling of more low
ANd keep it L O W

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   Done!!!!! posted by sceen-pac on 7/30/2000 at 2:17:16 PM
Yeah that is a a ood bike the fender is has a good job on it tell me how you did that email me at studmuff54@hotmail.com

   RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:   Done!!!!! posted by Sebastian °LowStyleZ! HH° Hamburg, Germany on 8/3/2000 at 5:12:32 AM
O.K. - here'S how I did it (don't know if U understand my english - but I'll try to do my best ;) ).

First I cut out the steat-post-tube and welded some sheet metal from underneath the two smaler tubes that go from the back to the front for extra stability. I also welded on a piece of metall from the seatpost-clamp about 4inches long pointing backwards where I molded on an ordinary 20inch-fender from a Kids-bike (my new rear-fender). All filled with Bondo 'n stuff. After that I welded on a triangular-shaped piece of metal (about 6inches long) to the bottom of crank-housing and also filled it with bondo. O.K.- the tank-molding is clear. Colors are straight out of the Spray-Can - Covered with multiple coats of clear. After that I addded the pinstripping and applyed some more layers of clear. By the way - the rear-lights are also molded onto the frame in a 60s-rocket-style. Will have a lotta new picz online soon. Check out http://www.lowriderbike.de

PEACE! Sebastian

LOWRIDERS:   crome posted by: mike on 6/28/2000 at 11:02:17 AM
i would like to know some ways to recroime some parts does anyone know anything?

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   crome posted by JimW. on 6/28/2000 at 7:46:29 PM
The best way to do it is to look in the Yellow Pages under "metal plating".
Old do-it-yourself manuals like the Popular Mechanics Home Craftsman's
Encyclopedia, from the '50s give pretty complete instructions on the process.
However, due to the powerful acids and toxic chemicals involved make it
unlikely that you'll find that sort of info in a new book, because of
liability issues. I'd suggest that if you want to do part of
it yourself, that you concentrate on preparing the metal surface yourself,
before taking the part to a commercial plater. This involves
sanding the surface rust down to bare metal, until it's extremely smooth.
This includes the use of emery cloth in grades from medium to
fine. The metal surface needs to be pretty much as smooth and
shiny as you expect the plated surface to be. As with paint, plating
will do very little to improve the surface underneath. Doing your
own metal prep will save you some money, but be aware that the
plating shop is already set up to do that part of the job for you.

MISC:   Making a hybrid posted by: brent on 6/27/2000 at 8:59:59 AM

I finally got around to making something out of a frame I had bought from Ebay. It's a no-name lugged ishwata frame for 700c rims. I made a bottom bracket out of one cup of a Tange and the other from a no name. Then I installed a Deore LX triple crankset and derailleurs. I've got an extra set of rims with road tires on them for now, I'll wait a while before I put on more agressive tires. The frame and fork are drilled for caliper brakes, but none of the one's I have laying around will reach. I'm going to make some drop bolts a la Sheldon. Now here is my problem. How should I run the derailleur cables from the flat bar? The frame doesn't have any cable slots brazed on the downtube or for shifters. Has anyone ever tried to use an old set of clamp on shifters as a cable stop? I've got a couple of old sets of Simplex shifters I would be willing to tear up. I've seen STI bikes have something like this to do the job. Any other ideas?

   RE:MISC:   Making a hybrid:cable mounts and stops. posted by JimW. on 6/28/2000 at 9:19:08 AM
The best, and best-looking way I've found to do the job is by
molding epoxy putty around the cable and to the centerline
of a frame tube. Both are covered by mylar packing tape, so
the putty doesn't stick. The taped cable or a plastic soda
straw of the same diameter is taped to the tube, outside the
mount area. The putty is molded on in two layers. The putty may
be smoothed with a wet fingertip, then sanded and painted.
More detailed instructions in the technique are shown at:

   RE:MISC:   Making a hybrid posted by Oscar on 6/28/2000 at 9:53:00 AM
Remember those lower priced 10-speeds with stem mounted shifters? They had clamp-on cable stops that fit around the down tube. This might be easier than canabalizing a shifter and drilling out the bosses.

I have a clamp-on cable stop I could give you gratis if you're interested. Gotta empty the parts box somehow!

AGE / VALUE:   custom fenders posted by: vino on 6/5/2000 at 8:17:25 PM
help!!!i need to know where i can buy some indian type fenders for my dyno roadster. have seen them in a couple magazines on bikes but can't find them anywhere thank you

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   custom fenders posted by JimW. on 6/8/2000 at 9:09:02 AM
Are you talking about what they call "ducktail" fenders?
They're swept back at the trailing edge. Those fenders are
available from lowrider bike sources. They may be available
through this site. I've gotten them from http://hiwheel.com
before, I think. They're available in sizes from 20" to 26".
Kustom Hint: you can adapt a front fender to the rear location.
You reshape the bottom front edge with tin snips, to match
the fender mount of the frame; while you're at it, you trim
away some metal to clear the chain. This makes for a very
nice bobbed fender. The ducktail gives it that upsweep
at the back, similar to a Stingray's rear fender. An example of
this fender application may be seen at:

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   custom fenders posted by sam on 6/10/2000 at 5:48:44 AM
Jim,thanks, the rod-bike&kustom web site is great!Had a lot of fun looking through there stuff.--sam

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   custom fenders posted by Larry on 7/7/2000 at 1:56:40 PM
Vino I was wondering if you located your INDIAN style fenders. and if your satisfied with the out come. just in case you have not, theres a place called GANGSTA TOUGH MINI SKIRTS located in Long Beach California. Write him at Speedy Gonzalez, P.O.BOX 321,Long Beach Ca,90801 for info.

CUSTOMS:   Mixup between a baloontire and a musclebike. posted by: Jens on 6/4/2000 at 7:41:58 AM
I have a Dyno-glide bike with a banana seat! Nobody rides as stylish as me! I actually trew away the old seat, and putted on a long, black banana seat made of heavy, black leather. The bike is so hot!!

CUSTOMS:   Dyno Kustom Kruisers posted by: JimW. on 5/30/2000 at 12:54:25 PM
A couple of issues ago,in BikeRod&Kustom, we ran pix and info on some of the Dyno Kustom Kruisers. I just checked the
links to Dyno's site, and they no longer work. Does anybody
know what's up? Have they just changed the site URL, or have
they discontinued the line. I was hoping to run their parts
list in an upcoming issue.

   RE:CUSTOMS:   Dyno Kustom Kruisers posted by DeathIncarnate on 10/2/2000 at 9:55:39 AM
yeah, I had a hard time finding the site too, it turns out they made it a part of the GT/Dyno website, instead of a stand alone website. hope it helps you, your site rocks!

WANTED:   Wanted: Technical Stuff posted by: Girard Bicycle Emporium on 5/29/2000 at 7:18:44 PM
I'm starting a business as a bicycle do-it-all. After I scrape the extra pennies for equipment, I'll be somewhat ready. problem is, I don't know what will sell anymore.
I need to know *everything* about the trade- trends, sales pitches, advertisement, hot spots, big items, anything else that I can do with the very little that I have to start with.
Also need to know anything else that would be useful for this. I think it'll spark nicely by the time recession hits. Email me with the works ASAP. -W. B. York, CEO/Owner/President/Vice President/Sales Mgr./Supply Mgr./Maintenance Mgr./Secretary/Receptionist/Clerk/Service Mgr./Technician/Everything and Everybody Else, Girard Bicycle Emporium

   RE:WANTED:   Wanted: Technical Stuff posted by JimW. on 6/1/2000 at 9:54:13 PM
I've got bad news for you, Dude. The kind of people who are
into those aspects of the bike concept are your potential competitors,and unlikely to give away whatever insights they've gained from experience. I'm not one of them, BTW. However, one thing I've gained from my experiences is that it's a bad idea to start a business based upon ignorance about the business you want to enter. There are trade magazines to do with the bike biz. You don't have to read too many recent issues of any trade magazine to get an idea of the aspects in which you're interested. That's why bike biznessmen subscribe to them. Check at your local library, in the Catalog of Publications.

   RE:WANTED:   Wanted: Technical Stuff posted by LARRY on 6/3/2000 at 10:33:18 AM

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Wanted: Technical Stuff posted by ChristopherRobin on 6/8/2000 at 12:23:36 PM
You are making a huge mistake. It takes a long time to learn the business. A friend went to work in a submarine sandwitch shop for 3 years in order to learn the business and he had a better product and still he did not make it. Bicycles are a compettitive cutthroat business to be in. Do not do this. Who and where have you been working for?What have you learned? Do not answer that here! A romantic hobby is one thing but a business is another thing altogether!

AGE / VALUE:   recumbant plans posted by: Frank on 5/26/2000 at 6:30:35 AM
I want plans &/or instruction to turn an old schwinn into a recumbant.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   recumbant plans posted by JimW. on 6/1/2000 at 10:22:24 PM
I hope you're not holding your breath while waiting for those plans & instructions. Anyone with the skills needed
to chop up an old bike and turn it into a 'bent will tell you that it's much easier to build a kit, (like Bentech's).
By the time you cut away everything not needed for a 'bent
structure, it wouldn't bear any relation to a Schwinn, or anything else you started with. All those stubs of tubing
sticking out from the head tube, bottom bracket, etc. would
only make the construction more difficult. Why bother? Start
from scratch (metal tubing comes in all sorts of diameters),
or buy a kit (which is probably much cheaper than buying the
raw materials yourself). Kits come with instructions. I can
predict steps#1,2,& 3: Learn to weld, master cutting steel tubing, learn to like nasty work. Also read: http://bikerodnkustom.homestead.com/Hoots_int.html
Carl Hoots has sort of done what you want to do.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   recumbant plans posted by Punk rock Kardy on 9/18/2000 at 9:45:23 AM
What are you talking about dude? As long as you have a chop-saw, a mig welder,a grinder with sanding disc tires, steering collom,crank and a whole bunch of steel to play with you can build pretty much anything you want. Ha ha buy a kit just rip apart a bunch of old mountain bikes for steel and build away!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   recumbant plans posted by Grant on 9/30/2000 at 9:21:34 AM
Mother Earth News had plans for a recumbent made from an old
bike. Also for leaning 3 wheelers etc. Try your local library
for back issues or maybe they have a website.

LOWRIDERS:   LowRides posted by: Sebastian on 5/25/2000 at 7:08:50 AM
Hi from Germany,
we're just about starting a lowrider-bike-club here in Hamburg (Germany) go check out http://www.lowriderbike.de for shots and sketches of our bikes. More to come when all the bikes are back on the streets. Gotta go - workin' on my Ride.


   RE:LOWRIDERS:   LowRides posted by TheLOWdown on 7/10/2000 at 1:11:05 PM
hey seb,
i started a club and it only has a few members but i posted signs around my area and also but a thingy on my site and i got a few replys my club is called LOWdown Creations


CUSTOMS:   dual drive project bike posted by: Ron on 5/21/2000 at 9:57:09 AM
I have just finished a dual drive project bike and would like to share the details. I have a fixed gear bike with a long 122 mm bottom bracket spindle and a flip-flop wheel with a 16t bmx freewheel on one side and a 16t track cog and lockring on the other. I also have two right crankarms with 44t chainrings. I bolted one of these to either end of the b/b spindle and ran two chains back to the hub. I used the bmx freewheel for the right side drive, reasoning that the track lock ring would keep the track cog on that (left) side from unscrewing under what essentially is prolonged back pedaling. It works fine, though with twice as much drivetrain friction. Also, the chainline on the left side is not as straight as I would like. In short, perhaps it is not practical for everyday use, but it should be an eye-catching addition to a rideable but seldom-ridden custom bike. What does anyone else think?

   RE:CUSTOMS:   dual drive project bike posted by sam on 5/23/2000 at 6:33:34 AM
Neat idea !

   RE:CUSTOMS:dual drive project bike posted by JimW. on 5/23/2000 at 7:22:41 PM
It sounds pretty interesting. I'd recommend chrome chains for
even more visual action. Lowrider parts sources like hiwheel.com
have it in stock.

   RE:CUSTOMS:   dual drive project bike posted by sam on 5/25/2000 at 9:00:29 PM
Meant to ask,does your dual drive mean you now have reverse.

   RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   dual drive project bike posted by ron on 5/26/2000 at 5:11:53 PM
Sam, all fixed gear bikes have reverse--it just takes a more talented rider than I to pedal one backward!

   RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   dual drive project bike posted by Punk Rock Kardy on 9/18/2000 at 4:59:14 PM
SWEET......That must peel rubber!