This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

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Archived: Customs, Lowriders, HPV, Recumbent, etc.

AGE / VALUE:   Jimmy's Bike posted by: A friend on 11/14/2001 at 3:49:57 PM
Hi Jimmy, You as a new commer to this gallery, I hope you share your bike with us. It thrills me to know people like you are chasing a dream, and creating your own bicycle. I can tell from reading your posts you caught the kustom world by the tail. Hold on your dreams, and build them.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Jimmy's Bike posted by Jimmy on 11/14/2001 at 10:15:20 PM
Thanks A friend!!!I'm going tomorrow to paint my bike cinnamon orange.Then I went to Phills' custom upholstery (He does world famous cars and stuff) to see if he could do my seat,he said yes!I might have my bike done by next year if get the parts for christmas.My bike was done in about 2 weeks with the hard work of me,my dad,my 2 uncles,my brother,and my cousins.Thanks to Todd (my uncle)for letting me do my bike for free at his shop.My next bike im looking for is a sschwinn,huffy, or hiawathe to streatch and fill in.Thanks Again!!Bye.

AGE / VALUE:   ONLY 4 HOURS LEFT TO GET YOUR KID THAT BIKE HE WANTS FOR X-MAS!!!! posted by: christian on 11/14/2001 at 2:34:27 AM
this is an awesome ride and i would hope to see some lucky kid get it for christmas. ebay item #1030742996. thanx for lookin' and peace!

LOWRIDERS:   web addresses wanted for lowriders.... posted by: Tim P. on 11/13/2001 at 5:08:14 AM
I lost my list of reputable lowrider sites and need some help getting a few of the companies site addressed. Thanks, Tim P.

   Lowrider addresses needed.......... posted by Tim P. on 11/14/2001 at 12:50:32 AM
Annette, I replied to your email, it was returned as undeliverable. Try again or post here. Thanks, Tim P.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   web addresses wanted for lowriders.... posted by Tim P. on 11/14/2001 at 5:16:34 AM
Where the h@#l are some good Lowrider sites in the midwest to buy a freakin' bike? How about some help here?

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   web addresses wanted for lowriders.... posted by Cal on 11/14/2001 at 1:34:45 PM
They sell 'em here at oldroads though they only stock a few colors.

   A little help at last. posted by Tim P. on 11/15/2001 at 5:28:53 AM
Sorry about getting testy, frustration got the best of me. I didn't know that Vin had them here. What catagory are they in? Would like to check them out. Thanks, Tim P.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   web addresses wanted for lowriders.... posted by Tim P. on 11/15/2001 at 5:32:13 AM
I got it!!! Thanks.

   RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:   web addresses wanted for lowriders.... posted by Jimmy on 11/17/2001 at 3:14:12 AM
I hear yah Tim p.,im from fort dodge iowa and there is'nt a lowrider bike shop for hundreds of miles.There is a place called "The Bike Shop" here,they have a repro apple krate and an old sting ray for sale,then des moines,about 75 miles from here,has "Bikr World" and all they have is a few nick nack schwinn stuff.I want a place where i can walk in and buy stuff,but then i would have to fly to California.Give me a break!

LOWRIDERS:   Hey peeps posted by: Jimmy on 11/10/2001 at 3:20:21 AM
Hey people!whats up?I got a base coat for my bike picked out,radience II series PPG cinnamin orange.This might be covered in a wild set of floresent jungle green flames,ones thhat criss cross and have very sharpe points.I also want to put some wild graphics on it,which one should I do????????????I need lots of help.The graphics would be long triangles with gost shapes throughout and net like graphics inside variuos geometric shapes,some i've never heard of,like ghertlavin,which looks like a triangle with all this other stoff conneted.Its in its bondoing stage now,two coats on so far,a cuople more will do it real good,im using 80 grit paper now,i will switch to 180 grit tomorrow,then 1000,and lastly 2000.I welded a bar on the back skirt that is bent the shape of the curve,it made another body line.I also welded the little space right behind the seat post in.I will probaly have a website up soon with all the steps and detailed pictures.My next project I would like to fully restore a 1960 Schwinn Apple Krate,if i can find one.Or maybe another lowrider that would be ready for radical custom class,plans are in the making for a streached lowrider,and raked,maybe add another 5 or 6 inshes,making look very LOW.well,enogh talk for now,good bye!!!please reply,hey that rymes!!hehe

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   Hey peeps posted by JimW. on 11/10/2001 at 7:41:24 PM
Going from 180 grit to 1000 grit sandpaper is a very big jump. You'll get mighty tired before you bring a 180-grit surface to 1000. There's a reason they have all those in-between grits. I would recommend that after you get a consistent 180 grit surface, you step up to 220-grit, then 320 or 400, then 600. Anything higher than 600 is wasted if the surface is going to get primered. 600-grit is good for sanding primer coats. Save the 1000 and 2000 for finish coats. For everything after the 180-grit, you will get better results and more paper mileage with wet-or-dry paper, used with soapy water.

   RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:   Hey peeps posted by A friend on 11/10/2001 at 10:11:37 PM
Hi Jimmy, "I can't help but feel your energy from here." Stay excited, and remember too take your time as you go. Jim is right about the sand paper! We all do things a little different than others, but we are all trying to achieve the same results. Nice clean work. I have always used 24 grit on my metal for bite; when applying plastic filler,or another words; bondo. Every time you apply bondo, you need too rough up your prior coat of bondo with 36, or 40 grit sandpaper. Use a guide coat of a dark primer too find your highs and lows as you go. This way when you block ,or sand by hand, your narrowing your work to proper form. Once you start to see a flaw which needs atention, take care of it at this stage." Once you see a low spot in the surface correct it right away with some more body filler so you don't have to use so much spot putty, ect. This way when you go to use your 80 grit sandpaper your going to spray another guide coat of primer. Now repeat the process all over again. Now your starting to see a change too the surface being worked. When I say this I mean; dust coat, or lightly spray a mist of primer. Now take your 80 grit sand paper and block once more. "Now your really narrowing it down for inprofections that need attention." Like I said before, "TAKE YOUR TIME." Once you like what you see see, feel with your hand as you go. Now do another guide coat." Now get your self some 220 grit sandpaper and sand all your 80,grit sanding marks out until they are all gone! Smooth them out good." Now do a final check for small flaws, and take care of them now. Once you have done that now primer your work a coat at a time. "What ever you do, don't overload your primer!" As you build your primer, 5min. flash time between coats; making sure you are distribuating enough primer for working the primerd surface. Sand once more with a old peice of 220 grit sandpaper like the one you used earlier, and cut it once more when the primer sets up for 24 hours. One more thing, spray a dust coat of a different color primer on the first one you layed down. If you shot it a red oxide primer, then dust it with a grey primer, or visa- verse. Once you have corrected any other inprofections with spot putty, lihgtly sand with wet sand paper like 320 grit, only where it needs it. Now your going too primer the frame all over again, and dust coat it once more and allow it to cure. Let it sit for a couple of days, or a week. Then when it is dry, wet sand it with 400 grit sandpaper, and dish washing liquid. Now rince real good and dry off. Now you have one bad *ss finish. Your ready for paint now. Remember 95% of any paint job is preperation. "The best too you and your job."

   RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:   Hey peeps posted by JimW. on 11/14/2001 at 1:40:04 AM
Friend, you are so nice to lay this stuff out to us so thoroughly. I'd like to add that all these steps in the process might sound really tedious, just laid out in words.
In reality, Jimmy, it's really fun and satisfying to do. By following the procedures, you don't have to work terribly
hard on any given stage. And after every stage, you can see that you made a real improvement on the job. When you have the final finish applied and polished, you will feel like Superman. (I hate to admit it, but I usually feel like GOD, at that point.)

Then, you take a photo, send it to us at http://bikerodnkustom.com
and become a KustomBike Superstar.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:   Hey peeps posted by A Freind on 11/14/2001 at 3:45:26 PM
Hi Jim, Its good too hear from you. When I wrote this posting, I just bought a new keyboard. It seems to work fine. To be honest; I myself don't care to read long posts. The info I layed out is easier said than done. When ever I do a frame, or any prep work, its a ritsual. I really like what I do. When you go all out on prep work, it shows in the final stage when it comes to paint. Paint is the fartest thing from my mind. When I am done with my prep work thats when I start planning for paint. I have enough with the prep work to keep my wheels turnning. We are all different when it comes to planning a job.I will change my mind as I go. I beleive that is creativity as it develops. Thats what I like about this type of kustom work with o'l bikes, the change ups a long the way. The twist and turns the mind takes as you go. I don't buy anything in a box when it comes to this type of bike building. Only the simple reason it takes the fun out of creating. For you younger guys who are up and comming in this fun hobby; protect your self from paint fumes, and wear protective eye ware when needed. Also ear protection too".

MISC:   here's a kool ride on ebay. item #1030742996 posted by: christian on 11/9/2001 at 8:26:11 AM
check it out. pretty sweet bike. later, jc.

   RE:MISC:   here's a kool ride on ebay. item #1030742996 posted by micxz on 11/9/2001 at 9:38:20 AM
I got a lowrider for sale a very good deal comes with extra frame, both fully custom contact me for $200 bucks worth of bike parts you could sell for about $500!!!

   RE:RE:MISC:   here's a kool ride on ebay. item #1030742996 posted by christian on 11/9/2001 at 6:40:25 PM
send me an email with pics if ya got 'em. im always intrested in new projects if it takes to my "eye". later, jc.

   RE:RE:MISC:   here's a kool ride on ebay. item #1030742996 posted by Sean Cotham on 11/18/2001 at 4:48:29 AM
Hey, send some pics if you have any and if it is still for sale

AGE / VALUE:   Tanks posted by: sam on 11/4/2001 at 5:32:45 PM
Lot of talk on tank building a while back.I built a toolbox tank for a reto-motobike I'm building.Soldered it together.This got me to thinking---maybe a simple tank for a canty frame might be possible too.A propain torch and solder is about $30 which would put it in the price range of a lot of younger builders.and the solder is somewhat easer to handel or learn.The toolbox tank came out great--sam

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Tanks posted by JimW. on 11/5/2001 at 7:04:06 PM
You're right, Sam. There are possibilities for soldered tanks. The "Coffin" tank configuration would lend itself to this way of fabrication. Flat-sided one gallon cans are a good source of metal stock. Tin cans are steel, plated with tin. This makes the metal especially simple to solder, as it
accepts the solder very smoothly. Hint: make a taped cardboard model, before cutting and bending any metal.

Tin-can-metal forms can be very strong, depending upon the design.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Tanks posted by Joel on 11/5/2001 at 9:50:14 PM
I've been doing some repairs on an old toolbox tank. Patched a rust spot and made a new door in no time using a tin can.
This got me thinking about making a copy for another frame that I have. The design is simple enough but I couldn't think of a way to make it without adding an extra seam in the side. The top of the tank is an arch (one piece) and it follows the shape of the top tube so the top edge slopes down at the rear. To form this shape, I would have to cut out a triangle shape and splice it down the sides. Is there a better way? Any other tips?

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Tanks posted by JimW. on 11/6/2001 at 8:28:17 PM
Yes, there would be at least one seam on the side, and probably more, perhaps at the corners. The seam can be smoothed in with solder, filed and sanded smooth. Same for
the edges where the sides and face panels join. You can have little bent-over tabs to make the sides/face joints strong.

MISC:   HEYYYYYYYYY posted by: Jimmy on 11/4/2001 at 4:01:29 PM
It seems everyone has left,maybe a strange phenomenon?Or they just got sweped away with the bike wizard?Or,they got cought up with the sleep bug?Jion me next time,same bike channel,same bike discuss, same bike time!!!nananananan nananananananana dah dah!!!

LOWRIDERS:   Painting Techniques posted by: Jimmy on 11/4/2001 at 2:17:55 AM
How do I make stuff look shaded,or darker on raised areas and on trim?Airbrush or what?

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   Painting Techniques posted by JimW. on 11/5/2001 at 7:10:32 PM
Airbrush is pretty much the only way to go, for that sort of thing. Spray can can't do anything that precise. I'm good with the can, but I can't do details with it. There are small cans of propellent which hook up to glass jars with spray nozzles (PreVal, etc.) but they really can't do it, either. Airbrushes are pretty cheap, especially the ones suitable for bike work.

LOWRIDERS:   My bike posted by: Jimmy on 11/2/2001 at 10:37:37 PM
Hello,I got to see my bike today at the body shop.For those ?'s you asked,the foundation is a 1969 schwinn sting-ray,no parts ordered yet,maybe christmas,i've heard alot about paint,kameleons,pearls,flakes,metallics,and kandy colors.Now just what color to paint it,no reds,blacks,pinks,or purples!!!!

LOWRIDERS:   Whats up posted by: Jimmy on 11/2/2001 at 12:22:41 AM
So whats everybody been working on? Me,just my first bike.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   Whats up posted by Stacey on 11/2/2001 at 11:10:55 AM
Congratulations & welcome to the boards Jimmy! Please, tell us more about your project... what you're using as a foundation, what components you're using, where you're heared, etc.

Me? I'm coming towards the end (HA! Like there is ever an end) of my first home built recumbent. I started with a 26" Mixte frame. With a lot of hacking & welding obtained a seat height of around 12"-14" using 20" wheels front and rear. Gearing is 3X7 for a shiftable range of 21 speeds. Though I'm using a modified freewheel cluster as a jackshaft at the bottom bracket location on the base bike under the seat. With this I can get a 1:1 ratio or at least 2 other ranges in either direction (Under or Overdrive) so this gem should be adaptable to climb the Himilayas or win a land speed record, depending on how I set up the jackshaft. But this is really all theory for now, haven't tested it in the real world.

Stopping will be achieved by V-Brakes in the rear and an Oh so stylish drum brake up front, SS spokes and Aloy rims with HP tires finish off the rolling goods.

What's next? A 20" tandem with a springer fork, of course!

In the wind and grease,

WANTED:   Help with painting posted by: Derek on 10/30/2001 at 9:38:38 PM
I need to if someone can lead me in the direction of someone who can paint my frame........in this range $75 to $100. I just want a simple repaint.



   RE:WANTED:   Help with painting posted by JimW. on 11/2/2001 at 12:04:58 AM
Where are you located, Derek? Since it costs about $35 to ship a bike, you're adding on about $70 if you ship it to and from a painter, so it pays to look locally. If you don't want anything fancy, maybe you should consider doing it yourself. You can achieve a very nice job with spray cans.

LOWRIDERS:   decisions decisions posted by: Korey on 10/29/2001 at 11:03:43 PM
shuold i build my tank out of sheetmetal or fiberglass,which is more easeir and fool proof?

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   decisions decisions posted by JimW. on 10/30/2001 at 3:49:05 AM
Neither is foolproof, or particularly easy. However, Fiberglass requires a little less experience to do a good job, and it requires lower levels of tool technology. For most people, glass is the preferable method for those reasons. If you have a torch, and are accustomed to welding and other auto-body skills and techniques, metal would probably be preferable. Fiberglass over foam is much lighter than Bondo sculpting over sheet metal, which makes the biggest difference for bikes which are actually ridden.

CUSTOMS:   custom seat posted by: jimmy on 10/28/2001 at 3:58:46 PM
im going to make a seat on my bike like a harley,make a sheet metal frame to cover with pading then leather.it will start about 3 inches forward from seat tube,go back to fenderand lay on fender about 6 inches up.good idea hea?

   RE:CUSTOMS:   custom seat posted by JimW. on 10/28/2001 at 6:32:08 PM
It should work fine. You might want to use an old seat frame
to join a seat post to your sheet metal pan. You might want to just use the core support of the old seat form, with steel strap brazed to the core support, shaped to fit the pan. You might want to use machine screws and nuts to attach the pan to the straps. This will make it easier to upholster the pan, as there is nothing to get in the way of wrapping the leather around the edges of the pan. You can use contact cement to bond the leather to the underside of the pan. You will need to fold the metal pan edge over, to make the edge more rounded, so it doesn't cut through the leather with time. Or, you can strip wire insulation and glue it around the edge, as a cushion. You could also sculpt the pan shape from styrofoam, then fiberglass it with a few layers of glass cloth, then dissolve the foam, as above.

CUSTOMS:   hey jim w. posted by: jimmy on 10/28/2001 at 3:54:25 PM
hey jim,i want to build a tank like a harley davidson tank on my bike.so all i need to do is get some styrofoam and carve it into shape on both sides(seperate sides?),then put layers of spandex on both sides or one big piece wraped around it?then where do i put the solevent in the tank to eat the styrofoam out?thanks!!!

   RE:CUSTOMS:   hey jim w. posted by JimW. on 10/28/2001 at 6:20:17 PM
If it's actually to be used for a fuel tank-no problem, because you'd need a filler neck and cap glassed into it anyway, and also an outlet fitting for a petcock. In which case, you'd dribble the solvent or gasoline into it, with the outlet closed. Voila! By the time you've filled it, the
foam is all dissolved. Pour out the solvent and dissolved foam.

If it's not going to be a working tank, you need to drill a small hole on the underside of the composite skin over the foam. Put solvent in a squeeze bottle (like for dishwashing liquid detergent), stick the nozzle in the hole and squeeze it into the foam gradually, repeat until there's nothing but
liquid in there. Put your finger over the drilled hole, and shake well. Pour the liquid out through the hole. Voila! Empty tank. If you don't need the tank to be hollow, don't bother, as it will be stronger with the foam still in there.
Any more questions?

LOWRIDERS:   murals or graphics? posted by: Jimmy on 10/21/2001 at 6:01:43 PM
When I get my bike painted with chameleon paint,should I put some murals on or pistriping,graphics or what?Im having alot of trouble deciding,since you helped alot before i will get some more help,right?

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   murals or graphics? posted by JimW. on 10/21/2001 at 7:47:53 PM
You might consider pearl scallops. They work well on bikes.
Good pinstriping is nice, if you know someone good at it.
Bike frames are a little cramped for mural work.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   murals or graphics? posted by sam on 10/22/2001 at 4:30:26 AM
Saw a mural on a chainguard-kinda cool.Get two or three guards and do them all--change the guard to sute the ocation