This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: Customs, Lowriders, HPV, Recumbent, etc.

LOWRIDERS:   back online posted by: Sebastian on 3/22/2001 at 3:51:11 AM
Hi, I just wanted to let U guys know that I'm back online. Check out http://www.lowstylez.com and http://www.lowriderbike.de


LOWRIDERS:   SHOW BIKE posted by: TIDO on 3/21/2001 at 4:20:10 PM
Are there any contest in ALABAMA that someone might know of I would like to enter my bike in one if there is.

MY BIKE''light blue ,white wall decked out in chrome and white and blue I have the best looking LOWRIDER in my area for about 40 miles I don't know to much past that '''I LIVE IN VALLEY , ALABAMA in FAIRFAX come on someone help me

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   SHOW BIKE posted by sam on 3/21/2001 at 8:05:10 PM
check out all the car clubs--hit all the lowrider car club in your area--they sometimes show bikes at there shows,reg. ventage car clubs are just starting to catch up---sam PS if they don't now show bikes you might get them to let you show as a way to draw more to the show.

   RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:   SHOW BIKE posted by JOEL on 3/22/2001 at 11:21:42 AM
I live in Birmingham and I can tell you that there's not much lowrider activity around here (I've NEVER seen one). The Atlanta Classic Bike Show in Marietta Ga is coming up April 1 and that might be your best bet. I don't recall if there were any there last year but there is some interest. www.oldbike.com for info. There might be a Lowrider/Custom category in the show??

Otherwise, as Sam said, the car shows would be a good place to show your work. Probably the best place locally (aside from cruising the block).

   RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:   SHOW BIKE posted by Oscar on 3/26/2001 at 3:09:35 PM
Any Hispanics live down your way? Not to generalize about Latino\a\s, but they take the lead on lowriders here in Chicago.

LOWRIDERS:   bicycle websites posted by: christian on 3/20/2001 at 7:40:33 PM
hello everyone. along with this excellent web site, there are many other places to get the answers you need. one of which is The Bicycle Billboard: www.angelfire.com/dbz/forum
we have just added a lowrider bicycle forum where you can post pics of your rides.
so if you would like to get the word out as much as you can, come on over and post your questions and pictures at our site too. and a "big thank you" goes out to this site, oldroads.com, which has been here for collectors as long as i've been in this hobby.

AGE / VALUE:   REALLY COOL BIKE posted by: MICHAEL on 3/20/2001 at 3:47:07 PM
I just bought a AMX GALACTIC CRUISER light blue I need a BENT SPRINGER FORK for it were can I get one for a reasonable price and a tall tall sissy bar can ya'll help ME

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   REALLY COOL BIKE posted by sam on 3/21/2001 at 7:59:28 PM
try www.lovelylowrider.com

AGE / VALUE:   Old Phoenix bike posted by: Sergio Viquez Hidalgo on 3/19/2001 at 8:47:37 AM
I live in Costa Rica, Central America. I bought an old bike but I can't find information about that brand "Phoenix". I know that those bikes are made in Shangai, China, and the factory has 40 years building bikes. This bike is a man's bike. If somebody could help me, it will be great. I want to start the restoration but I nedd some information. Thanks.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old Phoenix bike posted by Cal on 3/20/2001 at 5:22:28 AM
You might want to ask under the English Roadster topic

AGE / VALUE:   short chainstays posted by: Mike on 3/18/2001 at 6:05:26 AM
I had a brain storm yesterday, to retro fit a frame with a
bottom bracket right back, almost to the back tire, without
using elevated chainstays. It would provide clearance to use a rear
tire up to 1 3/4" wide. With a bike with a 20 inch wheel, this
would yeld 11 inch chainstays and with 26 wheels, 14 inch
chainstays. Cut out existing chainstays just ahead of the
of the dropouts and just ahead of the rear tire, weld a new
bottom bracket,that has a piece of 2 X 1 rectangular tubing
on the top, to the chainstay stubs behind existing bottom
bracket. 1/2 X 1 rectangular tubing would replace the chainstays
mounting to the 1 X 2 inch tubing on top of the bottom bracket
and running back to the rear dropouts. This frees up the area
behind the bottom bracket.

AGE / VALUE:   STRUTS posted by: sam on 3/16/2001 at 12:41:38 PM
Hi guys, have any of you ever made struts?If so what did you use?I'm bulding a Texas size ray(26")with springer frontend.I've add 5" to the forks,this gives me a 48'wheelbase and adds 3" to the height.need to make struts to fit the forks at about 30".---sam 3"

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   STRUTS posted by Rob on 3/19/2001 at 12:59:56 PM
Man, mail me a picture when its done..sounds cool.Cant help with the struts..cant imagine what you mean exactly..do you mean a brace to strengthen the front forks?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   STRUTS posted by sam on 3/19/2001 at 6:01:29 PM
Struts--old term for the truss rod on schwinn springer front end.They ars simple stright tubs,but I will need a long set.Do I just buy some tubing,or go with somekind of twisted rod.This extra long springer was made from an old exerice bike---seems schwinn used parts fron there springers for the front fork/stand.The top where the spring is came from a used lowrider.the bike is rideable but still in the rough.when I get a photo scanned I'll send you an email,rob.thinks---sam

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   STRUTS posted by Greg Groth on 3/23/2001 at 10:52:41 PM
I made a set out of a sissy bar for a Schwinn spinger on a 26" Cruiser. The ends probably could have come out nicer, but the bike was $4. At least I didn't have to have them plated when I was finished.

CUSTOMS:   Custom bike shows posted by: Brian Hileman on 3/12/2001 at 8:09:12 PM
Would like any and all info on bike shows in CA. Have a beautiful Kustom Roadster painted by cyclart, would love to show n win.

   RE:CUSTOMS:   Custom bike shows posted by A freind on 3/13/2001 at 3:43:46 PM
Hi Brain, The same people who painted your bike, are the people who have the information your looking for. Cycle Art paints for the collectors, and then some. So with that in mind you won't have to look long and hard. You are talking about the Cycle Art in Vista California? San Deigo way right?

   RE:CUSTOMS:   Custom bike shows posted by Brian on 3/13/2001 at 8:23:59 PM
Yes, this is the same cycl-art. The only one he could give me was the Great Western in Paso Robles, which is a rally. Not sure if they also have a show...Have you seen any work from Jim at cycl-art?

   RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   Custom bike shows posted by A freind on 3/14/2001 at 9:08:45 AM
Hi Brain, Yes I have. And very detailed and colors are well orginzied. When it comes to color matching, on originality and assembly of correct parts to the correct year and model your at the right place. Around 5 years ago I went to one of his collector swapmeets there at Cycle Art. It was a fair turn out. Nice people with a wealth of information and then some. I wanted you to ask Jim first about this, he's the tall thin gentleman, as you know. I only met him once. His wife is the nice lady who works the front as you walk into Cycle Art. Back to the shows, See theres shows for the Lowrider Bicycle circuit. Then you will have events like Hotrod and Kustom shows. I myself don't see a circuit out there strictly for this event. Look around go to the beach comunities, there are GT KRUISERS every where you look. Then you go to the Fair Plex in Pomona when they have the VW, Corvette and every other muscle car and antique swapmeets. The guys who are selling, and riding there Kustom Kruisers out and about around the fair grounds, the people and cars that are for sale. Its just like one big get together with people who love this hobby. So from what I have gatherd and accepted, you are constantly showing your ride as you ride. The bicycle is like a knock-off of some the people in the trade of hotrodding, and the Kustom Kulture. Then you have Temecula Kustom rod turn out in the old town of Temecula. Where you see people riding around the events on these Kustom Kruisers. This bicycle is part of the kulture, by choice, you just don't see a strong following here For only Kustom Kruisers as a whole event. Thats why, I myself like hanging out here at Old Rodes and other Kustom sites like Biker rod n Kustom, because your reconized by these guys on a common intrest, the Kustom Bicycle. But I might add, the Low rider curcuit will be very happy to welcome you and your bike. They just enjoy the show curcuit when it comes to Kustom bikes. They have a magazine on there following. You can buy a magazine at your nearest liquor store or 7/11 store and look for, up and comming shows.

   RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   Custom bike shows posted by Brian on 3/15/2001 at 3:42:36 PM
Jim no longer has the swap meets out there, I think last year was the last one. Bummer. Still no luck on shows anywhere, bummer again. Have e-mailed the editer of Low Rider magazine (bicycle issue ) twice with no responce. Will keep looking. I had this bike done to ride, not just to show, I belive a bike should be ridden no matter how much one spends on it or how old it is. Yes, this one gets alot of attention, did before, but now...man! Jim really did a great job. Also Monte, who does his saddle work really made me a beautiful kustom saddle, two toned to match the paint. I have a '71 Schwinn 5 speed that I am going to have restored by Jim next. Like you and most of the people in here, I am a complete bike nut, drives my wife nuts! Thanx for your help friend, and good conversation...Brian

AGE / VALUE:   chester cheetah bicycle posted by: kelly on 3/12/2001 at 6:10:48 AM
I have a chester cheetah bike I am wanting to sell . I would like to know what it is worth ? Or any info on this type of promo bike . {it is purple with black spots, three head light, one large light in the middle and two smaller lights one on eather side. the front end is racked with extended forks} Thank you for any info have Kelly.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   chester cheetah bicycle posted by Brandon on 3/13/2001 at 7:31:30 PM
Does the bike have a cantilver frame or is it a single top tube? Murray and Huffy made single top tube choppers with extended forks in the late 70's. They had a motorcycle-like triple tree fork with ape hangers, they had banana type seats and usually had 20 in. rims. These sell from $100+ depending on condition. If yours is a promo bike, that could add to the value, making it more collectable. It all depends on finding the right buyer to make you happy. I know somebody who may be interested in the bike if it is from that time period. Do you have any pictures?
You might poke around on E-bay searching completed items under choppers in the collectible bicycle catagories to see a. if you can find anything that resembles it, and b. what the market prices for these bikes are recently.
Hope this helps, e-mail me a pic if you can.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   chester cheetah bicycle posted by jeremy on 4/19/2001 at 5:15:50 AM
Hi. I own a chester cheeta bike, and know a bit about them. The bike was a prom item built for frito lay. there were two years that they where givin out. First in the 80's this was a nice bike but did not go well. Then in the 90's they added a water bottle bag, and spoke gards. the bike still didn't do well. price is all on what year you have and in what shape. Do you have any pic? I am looking for another for my girlfriend. How much were you looking to get?
Hope I helped

MISC:   shimano 333 3-speed hubs posted by: boris abernasky on 3/12/2001 at 12:23:58 AM
i've been told that these old japanese 3-speed hubs are unreliable and break often, but i have a hard time understanding this problem. my "shopping" bike for the last 10 years has been an old "schuck's" 3-speed "english roadster" bike (schuck's is an auto parts store chain in washington, apparently they sold bikes in their stores in the 70's and this is one of the older models) fitted with a big wald basket in the front. it gets about 25 miles a week on it and even with the plastic oiler broken off it still works perfectly. i give it a squirt of oil every time i take it out and shift it maybe 20 times between home and the local safeway. it has never broken down except for the occasional flat tire, and is silent and easy to ride. the stock shimano shifter is a total joke.... if i could find a better one then i'd really be happy :)

the bike is rather heavy (32lbs dry) and made of heavy steel with 26x1-3/8 wheels. the cool thing about it is that i can park it anywhere with no fear of it being stolen. 10 miles is about it's comfortable limit, the most annoying thing about it is it's gearshift. it's supposed to be a thumb-shifter, but the travel and angle of the stock shifter is so bad that your hands have to be off the bars to shift into any gear...

   RE:MISC:   shimano 333 3-speed hubs posted by A freind on 3/12/2001 at 6:32:16 AM
Boris, The bicycle you speak of sounds very dependable. The shimano gearing that works for you, may give others problems due to lack of maintance. Even with the oil hole cap missing. As long as you feed the hub every now and then, why should you have a problem? Then you go on to say, you put some miles on this bicycle for daily transportation. So with that in mind, does it really matter what anybody says about your gearing of choice, you already put this bike threw the ultimate test. For being on the heavy side of most daily riding bikes of today, well can you imagine getting on a newer bicycle of today, man" you would get to where your going in almost 1/2 the time. As for appreance, I see a plus here, you have saved on a lock, and never have to be concerned with loosing your keys.

   RE:MISC:   shimano 333 3-speed hubs posted by GregG on 3/12/2001 at 2:54:35 PM
Personally I have always found it easier to demonstrate to owners how to check the gear adjustment on a Shimano hub rather than a S/A hub. Another problem with the S/A hubs was that it was rather easy for the indicator chain to become damaged. If the owner replaced the indicator chain with the wrong length replacement, adjustment had to be done by feel rather than by eye. Perhaps the advice you have received is in reference to the Shimano coaster brake version. I seem to remember that there was a problem at some point with these hubs that required a recall. I think it had something to do with the braking operation, or the lack thereof. I believe this happened sometime in the early to mid eighties. I know that problems like can create a stigma that may tarnish a manufacturers image somewhat. I can find out the particulars on this, as I may have my facts screwed up, someone please correct me if I do. Personally I have never had any problems with 3 speed hubs overall, provided they are adjusted correctly. I have also never been particularly happy with coaster brake 3 speeds in general, finding calipers or drum brakes a better option IMHO. I have also found most bike mechanics to be quite up to date on the latest technology, but frown upon something as boring as an internally geared 3 apeed hub whose technology has been around since the turn of the last century. Some people can't handle practicality over "latest & greatest" thinking. If you're happy with your steed, more power to you. You might want to check out your local bike shop to see if they have a different shifter that may be more to your liking, Shimano did have a number of different shifters through the years, as far as I know they are all compatable.

   RE:MISC:   shimano 333 3-speed hubs posted by Mike Watson on 3/18/2001 at 5:41:28 AM
Boris, I see things the same way. There's nothing wrong with
Shimano 3 speed hubs. I've cooked up a "winter bike" much like
our own; you can leave it anywhere without a lock and armed
guard, has fenders and chain guard. To add precision and save abit
of weight and lower the gearing I replaced the cotter pin crank 44
tooth chain wheel with an alloy cotterless crank double with the
52 tooth hack sawed off leaving the 40 tooth for proper chain
alignment. I mounted the arms on a sealed bearing bottom bracket
I had kicking around. I installed a 19 sprocket on the hub, it's
shifted with a shimano twist grip. Up front I used a stem extender
and flat bend 2 inch rise mountainbike bars 26 inches wide.
The shimano 3 speed hub is stronger than S/A hubs, I found
out the hard way; but neither like too much chain pull. I had a
bike setup with a custom crank with 19 tooth coaster brake
sprocket welded on, on the hub a 16 tooth sprocket. The S/A
broke an axial after a little hard pedalling on level ground.
The shimano lasted 4 hard climbs up a 40 % grade before its
axial broke. It was puzzling because because I had a bike setup
with 32 X 28 gearing and had no problems. I came to the conclusion
that the tiny sprocket on the crank was the problem, causing
too much initial torque multiplication and just tugging the
chain too hard breaking the hardened axial. Shimano anti axial
rotation tab works better than S/A slotted washers.

AGE / VALUE:   Info wanted: COLSON recumbent 1890's? posted by: Scott G. on 3/9/2001 at 9:31:40 PM
I am looking for info (actual age, production info., values) on a very early Colson trike recumbent produced 1900 or perhaps earlier? Have pictures to share by e-mail request. This trike is in excellent original condition including the decorative original wicker seating. The tag says COLSON of Elyria, O (for Ohio) USA and unable to make out some patent #?? This one is funky monkey motion creation.

MISC:   Paint stand... posted by: Rif Addams on 3/8/2001 at 12:01:06 PM
I just finished making a paint stand. It came out beautifully!
Thanks to all who gave instructions and tips! This is going to work out very well.
My welds aren't the prettiest on the planet, but they are effective.
Towards the bottom of it I even spot welded "hooks" (for lack of a better term) to hang my gun and airbrush on.
Thanks again for another great shop project guys and gals!

   RE:MISC:   Paint stand... posted by A freind on 3/9/2001 at 8:34:19 AM
Rif, are you there? or are you busy painting right about now? Who cares about the welds, spray a little color on them, they will be a little more pleasing to your eyes. And remember, "Have FUN".

   RE:RE:MISC:   Paint stand... posted by A freind on 3/9/2001 at 9:00:08 AM
By the way, I have been told by people, that I should add casters or wheels to this paint stand. The reason I don't put wheels, for the simple reason, I don't want the stand to fall over while I am moving the frame when painting. Sure it is much eaiser to push around from one place to another. But accidents will happen if your not careful. So with that in mind its all up to you. I like the security of a stand that is more stationary, rather than one that can fall over. Always remember this" 95% of your job is getting your frame and parts ready for paint. This is only my opionion, but know body wants to put all those fun hours into your prodject, only for it to fall over. For those of you who paint with a spray gun, Your whole attention must be on what you are doing, rather than always wondering where your dragging your hose. One good pull of that hose and down comes your work. So with that in mind, and taking your time, you will have a better day.

   RE:MISC:   Paint stand... posted by Rif on 3/9/2001 at 11:09:42 AM
I couldn't agree with you more!
I used a scrap piece of 1/4" x 20" x 20" plate, (salvaged from my LARGE scrap pile) for the base. There is no substitute for a good solid rigid stand. One thing I usually do when painting in order to keep the airline under control is to wrap it around my arm, then up over my shoulder, and down my back. I learned to do this the hard way many years ago when airbrushing stencils.
It truly is the little details that count when preparing a frame for buildup. Don't get in a rush, take your time, and pay close attention to every minute detail.
I am preparing to build two more of these out of more salvaged junk. I knew there was a reason for saving all this scrap and car parts! :-}
Thanks again,
Rif :-}

   RE:MISC:   Paint stand... posted by Rif (again) on 3/9/2001 at 11:20:06 AM
I forgot to mention a little detail I did that works great- I had a seat post that was two different sizes, one large end for larger tubing like on Mountain bikes, the opposite end was more like "standard" for older bikes. I used this, then I welded a piece of round bar stock at the very end so I would also be able to mount pre-war frames that have the little inverted 'L' type seat post. It works beautifully! I can mount darn near any frame on this stand!
You know, the wierd thing is, I get all finished with this project and I am just pleased as anything with my self. I took useless scrap and made something useful and good out of it. When my roomate gets home, I show it off... Nothing. It looked like a bunch of scrap welded together to her.
Ah well, another lesson in being humble... I'm still pleased on the inside! :-}

   RE:RE:MISC:   Paint stand... posted by A freind on 3/9/2001 at 4:15:18 PM
Now heres a tech tip for your fenders. When it comes to painting fenders, you guys know the folding chairs the wrestlers use on the WWF? you know the ones they smack each other on the head with? Alrihgt" you know what I'm talking about. Rather than use them on each other, try drilling a 1/4" hole on top of your back side rail of the chair. Now weld, or tap out a 1/4" hole. At this time it should look like somebody is flipping you the bird. Excuse me but I need to be clear so you good people know where I'm comming from. Ok, this works right nice for 20", 26",24" fenders. You know the hole on top of the fender that mounts up to the fork? Alright, run the stud threw the fender hole, and she will stay put while you paint. Make sure your stud is not to big, a little play is ok. But long enough so she don't fall off the chair. Check out Larry Lujan's gallery on the Blood Sweat & Tears bike, THE 20" 5 Speed Kustom Schwinn, you will see how the fenders are mounted to the top rail of the chair. Jim Wilson's bikerod&kustom2.homestead.com/gallery12.html Or go to Old Rodes bicycle links here on this web site.

   RE:MISC:   Paint stand... posted by sam on 3/10/2001 at 12:02:23 PM
Rif,do I see an upcomming artical for Rod Bike & Custom here?---sam

   RE:RE:MISC:   Paint stand... posted by JimW. on 3/10/2001 at 1:23:24 PM
Good idea, Sam! How about it Rif, did you take pix?

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Paint stand... posted by Rif on 3/11/2001 at 10:22:17 AM
I'm fairly certain there may be an article in all this somewhere... :-}
I took piucs of the finished product. I will take pics of the entire process of the next one I build and the fender stand. As you may have guessed, I do have a couple of those chairs in with a bunch of junk.
Boy! What a great group of tips for making shop supplies! Once again, many thanks for the tech tips!

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Paint stand... posted by Rif on 3/11/2001 at 10:51:42 AM
I do not wish to contradict you or dispute anything. I do however feel the need to point out that if youn are going to tap a 1/4" hole do not drill it out at 1/4". there will be no material left for the tap to cut.
for tapping a 1/4" the hole needs to be drilled at .2010 with a #7 drill. This will leave the proper amount of excess for the tap to cut threads into the material.
Another tip for those who may not know- When tapping, be sure to plenty of tapping fluid, and for every 1/4 turn (clockwise for right-hand threads)turn it back 1/2 turn to break the chip.
Sorry, but I spent too many years in the machine shop and have seen too many scraped parts due to improper drill sizes and broken taps.
I am just trying to help those who may not know. :-}

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Paint stand... posted by A freind on 3/12/2001 at 6:47:34 AM
Hi Rif, I respect your correction. The studs that are welded on my chairs are by choice. When I post a tip on doing things and making life a little easier on our selfs when we are doing what we enjoy, I have to take in concideration that not everybody has a welder, or the means to one. I might add that there are up and comming people in the hobby who are new to this. So with that in mind, I try to make other alternitives in doing things to take the place of others. As long as you correct something that I have over looked, we are in good hands. Thanks"

   RE:   Paint stand... posted by Rif on 3/13/2001 at 10:20:55 AM
I really was concerned that I may have inadvertently offended you. I have a great amount of respect for you and the tips you share with all of us!
Take care,

CUSTOMS:   Head set size posted by: adam on 3/7/2001 at 12:39:23 PM
I have a 51 womans cruiser frame (S# H002756). I bought a 1"
Schwinn headset for it assuming that was the proper size.
Well, it's way too small. The headset I purchased has a 30mm
cup O.D., I think thats fairly standard. The head tube
on the frame has an I.D. of about 32mm to 33mm. Could someone
tell me what size headset I need to look for, or if there
are any special considerations for this type frame?

   RE:CUSTOMS:   Head set size posted by Greg Groth on 3/8/2001 at 12:45:08 AM
Schwinn used a 1" headset (OD of steering tube), but had slightly larger diameters on their cups (1 1/4"? VS 30.2mm), and a slightly smaller ID on the steerer tube than the 1" headset you have purchased (ID is different on the locknut). If you're looking for a "correct" replacement, Schwinn did sell replacement headsets a while back (5 years ago), but I am unsure if they still do. You could also locate a cheap donor bike at a local 2nd hand shop (Collegiate, Varsity, etc). If you can't find either one, and "correctness" isn't a concern, I believe that BMX headsets also use this size.

   RE:CUSTOMS:   Head set size posted by Adam on 3/8/2001 at 7:09:15 AM
Thanks for the information Greg. I looked at the cup O.D. of a BMX
headset and sure enough it was 32.7 instead of the normal 30.2.
I just naively thought "Must be a one inch headset, those have
been the same for practically ever right?" You learn something
new every day. Well, at least I know what to look for. Thanks again.

   RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   Head set size posted by Greg Groth on 3/8/2001 at 1:21:01 PM
Just another fine example of how Schwinn dared to be different. Different size headsets, 28 TPI threads on the crank instead of 24 TPI, their tire sizes, not to mention their unique way of welding their frames. Best regards.

FOR SALE:   Repop Krate sissybar/shock w/hardware posted by: Tim P. on 3/3/2001 at 8:34:09 PM
Wanting to sell a used but nice shape repop chrome sissybar/shock like what comes on Krates. If interested-$35.00 plus shipping. Thanks, Tim P.

AGE / VALUE:   Handle bars posted by: Brandon on 3/3/2001 at 6:26:58 PM
Does anyone know where to get a set of handle bars that look like "pulled back" ape hangers? I saw a set somewhere once, and would like a set. They are bent like a backwards "C" with the grips in the normal position.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Handle bars posted by CATFOODROB on 3/10/2001 at 8:05:14 AM
Brandon, I`m having trouble imagining what you are describing exactly, but Dyno have apehangers with a "kink" in them www.kustomkruiser.com is their site, the Deuce uses them, and they sell them in " accessories". I f you already knew that, sorry.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Handle bars posted by Brandon on 3/11/2001 at 12:03:50 PM
Thanks catfood rob! I found what I was looking for at Mega-Lowriders in Ca. They have an outstanding selection of crazy stuff for bike freaks to play with. They were Ram's horns, and they are only $13 + shipping.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Handle bars posted by Brian on 3/15/2001 at 3:56:48 PM
Hey Brandon, Does Mega-Lowrider have a web page? phone # ??? Looking for Kustom show info. Thanx...Brian

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Handle bars posted by Brandon on 3/15/2001 at 5:44:46 PM
They don't have a site, but they're hard core....probably can help you out.
Phone: 1-888-634-2569