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Archived: Customs, Lowriders, HPV, Recumbent, etc.

AGE / VALUE:†††Kustom Wheel Covers posted by: JimW. on 1/24/2002 at 5:28:16 PM
Here are some further thoughts on the recent thread on kustom wheels. While interesting wheel covers are fairly scarce in the bike world, the auto world has lots of them.
Auto wheel covers come in a great range of styles, from the simple but elegant HotRod-style spun aluminum disc, to scimitar-bladed chrome-spoke style, and everything in between. The common sizes for accessory auto wheel covers are 13, 14, 15, and 16". I just now took a tape measure to a 20" bike wheel, and the radius from center to rim was 7.5". That gives a diameter of 15" for a disc which covers the spokes of a typical 20" bike wheel. I haven't done any experiments on adapting 15" auto wheel covers to a bike wheel yet, as I live in Manhattan and old wheel covers aren't commonly available for experimentation here. Assuming that the size is right, I see no reason why such an adaptation wouldn't be possible, though. A hole in the center, matched to that of the bike hub would be required, of course. The simple way of retaining the covers together
at the outer edges, would be through the use of plated hexagonal circuit board stand-offs, available with matching plated screws. A stand-off is like a nut, only much longer.
4 or six matching equidistant holes in the rim area of both covers would need to be drilled in each cover. Small screws would go through the holes and thread into the stand-offs. When all the screws are tightened, the covers would press tightly against the spokes- holding the covers in place securely in place. Another way of joining the covers would involve the use of 1/8-1/4" holes and threaded steel rod cut to length. Chrome "acorn nuts" are tightened onto the threaded rods to retain the wheels. Of course, this is all based upon there not being too deep a dish on the auto wheel covers, which might interfere with things fitting right. It would be nice if someone out there could try this, and let us know the results. A good place to see the styles of wheel covers available is JC Whitney's wheel cover dept. go to see @: http://jcwhitney.com/catsubpic.jhtml?CATID=4073&BQ=jcw2
They have spun-aluminum moons for about $45 a pair. They also have stainless moons and baby moons in the 15" size.
There is quite a range of styles available in chrome-finish
ABS plastic. Included in these are many chrome bladed types.

One way of styling the bladed type of cover would be to use black window screening mesh panels in the open areas between blades, on the inside of the cover. Double-stick foam mounting tape would hold the black mesh in place. This, combined with painting the original spokes black would give a very snazzy-looking bladed-wheel look, with invisible "blackout" spokes.

While not as common as the other sizes, 16-inch covers would seem to be a likely prospect for use on 24" bike wheels. My stash of 24" wheels isn't as easy to get to as the 20" ones, so I haven't measured one of those yet.

Depending upon fit, a pair of metal wheel covers could conceivably be welded to the rim and hub, replacing the spokes entirely. Again, hands-on experimentation is the way to go in establishing this. But it's easy to visualize the possibilities. Check out the Whitney site, they have lots of stuff that could be adapted to KustomBike use.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Kustom Wheel Covers posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 1/26/2002 at 5:10:39 PM
It's back to the junkyard to wander around all day. Just wander and look at everything and commune with the spirits and inspiration will come to you.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Kustom Wheel Covers posted by Mike on 1/29/2002 at 11:32:40 PM
Some slick looking cast wheels.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Kustom Wheel Covers posted by Rif Addams on 2/1/2002 at 2:18:23 AM
That's what I'M talkin' about, just wandering, looking, and letting my mind run rampant. A perfect saturday...

LOWRIDERS:†††Jimmys lowrider bike update posted by: Jimmy on 1/22/2002 at 12:42:50 AM
hello,since I lst talked about my bike not much has changed.I am going to call it "PURE HELL".And I got an order form ready for my parts,and came up with some more ideas.1).motorcycle mirrors with flames on the outside.2).on the top of the goose neck i'm going to cover each allen head bolt with a end of a .44 mag end cap (like jesse james does).3).maybe some CNC machined wheels if I can ever find any.4).And maybe a flame springer front end.Thats all for my bike,I am trying to get some pictures ready to show.Then yesterday i went to the world of wheels car show in Des Moines Iowa,they had two lowriders,a white one with som gold part sitting in a coffin,and a black chopper made to match the harley next to it.And I even meet George Barris,the one that made kustom bikes before he got into customizing cars.Now my dad wants to make a 26" lowrider also.one ide that has come to mind already iz cotting out the bottom S bent bar and making one curved bar and drill port holes(like jesse james did to his bike) and paint it pearl baby blue with flakes and lime green flames(like jesse james bike).And I am still planing for another lowrider bike.well enough talking for taday,bye


   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††Jimmys lowrider bike update posted by Sebastian on 1/22/2002 at 12:37:20 PM
Hey Jimmy - that really sounds good!

My "EazyOrange" Euro-Style-Lowrider is at the welders-shop. Hope i get it back soon.
Meanwhile i kustomize my 26-Schwinn-Stepthrough-Cruizer. It's gonna be painted by the End of the week in Copper-Metallic with gold Flakes in the Clear and white Pinstripin. I already ordered a Bent SpringerFork, a down Crown, Chrome Ducktail Fenders and a MoonBar. Will put the original 26inch-RearWheel whit Baloon-Tire and a 24inch FrontWheel with "normal" Tire on it. It's gonna be a somewhat 50/60ies Style-Custom-Rod-Styled Bike. Copper Paint, White Pinstripin, White Seat, White Grips, red painted wheels and WhiteWalls.

Sebastian įLowStylez B.C. Hamburg, Germanyį .... http://www.lowriderbike.de

   RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:†††Jimmys lowrider bike update posted by Jimmy on 1/22/2002 at 9:56:45 PM
Those should be some kick butt bikes when your done.from the illustratioins of easyorange and descriptoin of the 50's style bike they shuold be.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††Jimmys lowrider bike update posted by sam on 1/23/2002 at 4:02:08 AM
Get that butt in high gear Jimmy the Ai Petry Lowrider Bike Show is Feb22-23-24,2002 in Detroit.

   RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:†††Jimmys lowrider bike update posted by Mike on 1/29/2002 at 2:56:09 AM
Hi sebastian, I'm glad to hear Easy Orange is taking shape.

LOWRIDERS:†††IS this too much posted by: Chris on 1/19/2002 at 3:37:08 PM
well i emailed this place that custom paints motorcycles and bikes and stuff, and they said for a chameleon paint job with them supplying the paint and doing everything with black tribal graphics would be around 800, is that too much, i want to either get gold to mejenta chameleon paint or get a high gloss black with gold mettalic flake and candy green twisted tribal graphics. what do you guys think i should do?

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††IS this too much posted by JimW. on 1/19/2002 at 4:36:28 PM
That doesn't sound unreasonable, if the $800 is buying a good job. If the tribal markings are as intricate as I would imagine, you're talking about a lot of time cutting stencils, the chameleon paint is also more labor-intensive
than a straight spray job. Painters who are capable of doing high-end work get bigger bucks than those who aren't.
Just be sure that the painter can do this level of work before committing to the job. Painters of this calibre will usually have a portfolio of photos of their work. If he doesn't, think twice about giving him the job. $800 is a lot for letting someone use your job as practice.

   RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:†††IS this too much posted by Jimmy on 1/22/2002 at 12:41:24 AM
Actually $800 does sound unreasonable.The only way it would be that expensive is if it is high quility paint like House of Kolor,but ppg's Chromalusion paint is just the same,they have hundreds of colors to chose frome too,but is much cheaper but of the same quality.They make more colors than house of color also.$800 could buy a nice house of kolor,buffed,flaked, and runless paint job.for about $100 you could use ppg chromalusion,buffed,flaked and runless paint job,but thats up to you to decide how much you want to spend,let us see pictures when your done.

FOR SALE:†††Parting out a 50cc Motobecane moped posted by: Vin - VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc., at OldRoads.com on 1/17/2002 at 8:37:21 PM
Pictures, prices and details at: http://OldRoads.com/motobecane.asp

Great source for wheels, drum brakes, etc.

Vin - VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc.

CUSTOMS:†††CNC machined wheels posted by: Kennnyy on 1/16/2002 at 9:26:39 PM
after searching for four hours for any body that sells or can make CNC machined wheels.NO LUCK.so I came here to see if anyone knows of anybody wo makes chrome cnc machined wheels,or at least a chrome plastic wheel.I want a wheel with neat designs like a blade look,not spokes.ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED!!!please reply ASAP!PLEASE bye

   RE:CUSTOMS:†††CNC machined wheels posted by JimW. on 1/17/2002 at 4:03:51 AM
I'm not holding my breath, but I'd also love to hear of a source for something like this. If somebody's set up to do it, it's bound to be pretty expensive, though.

   RE:RE:CUSTOMS:†††CNC machined wheels posted by Sebastian on 1/17/2002 at 5:26:36 PM
yep - I want some' tooooooo .... I couldn't find (lets call them "Euro-Style"-Wheels) either. Still have to find a source to chrome-dip my plastic-7-Spoke BMX wheels. But as it costs about $160 to get them dipped I think about coverin them in chrome-foil.

As for the "blade-style"-wheel. I thought about something like this. What about taking a basic set of laced (36spoke or less) wheels, cut the blade-design in steel, weld it on the wheels and when it's cold remove the spokes, fill the Spoke-holes, grind down the welding-spots and get the whole thing dipped?
Dunno if it works - but this should be the cheapest way to do it.

Sebastian įLowStylez B.C. Hamburg, Germanyį http://www.lowriderbike.de

   RE:CUSTOMS:†††CNC machined wheels posted by Stacey on 1/18/2002 at 11:38:44 AM
You could try Jesse James, the Motorcycle Chopper guy. He builds high end Harleys for the rich & famous.

   RE:CUSTOMS:†††CNC machined wheels posted by sam on 1/18/2002 at 2:06:12 PM
Problem is getting the dish in the wheels,Any ideas on this.Moon makes "moon wheels"---sam

   RE:RE:CUSTOMS:†††CNC machined wheels posted by JimW. on 1/18/2002 at 5:05:14 PM
There's one way of doing it, but it would be a fair amount of work. The Type 35 Bugatti had a very nice cast alloy spoked wheel. Peter Stevenson designed a set of plans for making a children's pedal car based upon it. I reviewed the plans a few years ago. Got to http://homepage.mac.com/bugatti/jacob/Articles/SteveprojReview01.html to see a comprehensive drawing of it. The method
Peter used to replicate the wheel in thin plywood could be used to make a bike wheel in aluminum. .062 aluminum sheet could probably be used. A pair of "spiders" could be cut out of the aluminum sheet, using a hand-held sabre saw or bandsaw with a scrolling blade. These spiders could be bent at the hub area to get the dish angle, then welded to an aluminum rim. The spokes could be left in place for the first side, then removed before welding the second one in place. Or a jig could be set up to locate the hub in relation to the rim. This would be best, as the spider would also need to be welded to the hub, and this would be a lot simpler without the spokes. This would be a lot of work to achieve, but it certainly wouldn't be impossible to do. And it wouldn't require the use of a CNC milling machine.

The Moon Discs are very beautiful, but I don't think they'd be strong enough with material removed in open areas. I think if I were prepared to spend that much money (about $150 per wheel) I'd just leave them alone.

Sebastian, I use a model-making foil called "Bare-Metal" it's very thin polished aluminum foil with a slight adhesive backing. It's used to cover bumpers and chrome trim areas on model cars. It would look pretty good on a bike wheel but it's a very fragile surface, and the adhesive isn't terribly strong. It wouldn't be very practical on a ridden bike.
Source: http://micromark.com

   RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS:†††CNC machined wheels posted by JimW. on 1/19/2002 at 8:12:26 PM
There's also another possibility: cast-aluminum wheels.
Ferdinand Trautmansdorff has an article on the making of wood-spoked wheels at: http://www.stevproj.com/DelWagWheels.html
Wood is the commonest material for making the pattern for aluminum castings. For something such as a wheel, the pattern is customarily split down the center. For this purpose, two pieces of wood are glued to a sheet of paper. After the spokes have been lathe-turned or machine-cut to final form, holes are drilled-through in a couple of places to provide registration, via dowels glued into one side of the spoke, which fit into the matching holes in the other side. The halves will split at the paper joint. The spokes are all joined together at the hub. The hub area will need to end up with a hole the right size for an alloy wheel hub to fit, or the hole could be machined after casting, to the right size to accept standard bearings. This calls for planning ahead, of course.

In the casting process, one of the wheel halves is placed in a split flask (like an open-faced cast metal box) against a flat surface, and a special sand compound is applied over and around it, and tamped down well. The slightly-moist sand compound holds together well enough to then pick up the flask and turn it upside down, so that the inner side of the split wheel is face up. The other half of the wheel pattern is then fixed in place to it, using the dowel registers fitting into the matching sockets. The other half of the split flask is then bolted to the first half, and sand is tamped into it, enclosing the second half of the wheel pattern. The flasks are then taken apart again, and the patterns are then removed, leaving wheel- shaped cavities behind. Molten aluminum is then poured into the cavity, through a passage made during the mold-making process. When it sets up, the aluminum casting is then removed from the sand. At this point, it has
aluminum sprues sticking out from the wheel surface, which also has the surface in sand-texture. The sprues are cut off, and the surface is machined smooth. The sand-textured surface may be sanded smooth and polished to a bright finish. As a wheel designer, your job is pretty much finished when the wooden pattern is finished. The foundry does the actual mold-making and casting. They are usually set up to do the finishing operations, also. The job will be simpler if you are only sculpting and casting the wheel center, then mounting the finished center into a stock alloy rim, as Ferdinand did with his wooden wheels.

I'm sure this all sounds terribly complicated, and to a certain extent, it is. But it's not impossible for someone with a moderate amount of woodworking skills. This is pretty much the same process which is used to make any cast-alloy wheel, and there are a lot of them out there, which demonstrates that it can be done. Then, you can sell cast alloy wheels to other KustomBike builders, for big bucks.

The wheel pattern can also be done as a split disc, with openings cut into the disc halves. You would probably need to add triangular webs to the discs, extending out from the center hub, as seen in most cast wheels of this type. This is to give the wheel rigidity and strength.

   RE:CUSTOMS:†††CNC machined wheels posted by Mike on 1/29/2002 at 2:49:30 AM
Kenny, Profile, of cromoly 3 piece BMX crank fame, does CNC
wheels at $2500 US a pair. They look totally kustom, 6 to 8
week production time!

   RE:RE:CUSTOMS:†††CNC machined wheels posted by Cruisers by Lou on 2/9/2002 at 3:27:05 AM
Any pictures available of these guys wheels,Mike

CUSTOMS:†††DX Kustom update... posted by: Rif on 1/13/2002 at 4:50:54 PM
Hi All,
The D.X. frame I have been working with just went back up on the nail in the rafters.
Everything was looking good at the start of the project, but then it decided it didn't particularly care for the direction I wanted to go with it.
Yesterday in my travels I was at the local lawn mower/ tractor boneyard up the road looking for a motor to use on a bike (hehehehe)when I spied with my little eye a late 1960's/ early 1970's Huffy 26" middleweight with cantilever frame and a flat front (20") tire.
I inquired about it and was told to take it away. The guy was just playing with it and didn't really want it. So I get it home and start looking closely at it. I had noticed the rear fender looked bobbed without a flare and without looking "hacked" up. What this fella' had done works well! He had taken the front fender, filled in the fork mount hole, drilled a new hole at the bottom, and mounted the thing on the rear! It really looks good!
I then grabbed my brake assy. and it fits great! I pulled out my wire feed welder, tacked on a mounting tab for the brakes, and started checking the look and fit of the shifter and other various parts. *BAM*! It all comes together like it was meant to be. My friend for whom this bike is being buyilt doesn't care if it's a Schwinn or a Huffy, he just wanted a cool old bike Kustomized to match his 1952 Ford Coupe.
Problem solved and the Cantilever frame looks better with the 5-spd. stick shift!
Once again Patience, Perseverance, and a little help from Lady Luck...
Thanks for all your help previously, I greatly appreciate it!

MISC:†††Custom made headbadge posted by: Evilar on 1/5/2002 at 3:09:00 AM
Does anyone know of anyone that will custom make headbadges for bikes? I would like a headbadge made using my companies logo but can't seem to find anyone that makes them. I've emailed a couple places i found on the net that "said" they made custom designed headbadges but have yet to receive a reply .... it's been about 2 months. Can anybody help me out? Thanks!

   RE:MISC:†††Custom made headbadge posted by JimW. on 1/5/2002 at 4:41:00 PM
I know several ways of making them, but I'm not looking for that sort of work. However, I can give you some pointers on how to do it yourself.

Electronic supply companies (digikey.com, for one) have a paper-based material designed for making iron-on masks for etching custom circuit boards. You do your artwork at the size you want it to be, in reverse (backwards)and in negative You can also do it digitally. The material works in Xerox machines or laser printers. The artwork is either xeroxed onto the transfer paper, or printed-out on it from the laser printer.

The image is then ironed onto a piece of sheet metal. This can be aluminum, or copper, depending upon the etchant.

Once the image is adhered to the metal, it is put into warm water to soak. After soaking, the paper may be removed, leaving the image behind. The image will resist the etchant.
Everything but the metal under the image will be etched. The longer the metal is in the etchant, the deeper the etch.
The back side needs to be protected by something. The classic process uses asphaltum paint, but you can also use rubber cement, or many other coatings.

After etching, the etched area is lower than the original surface. The masking is removed from the metal, and the metal is trimmed to final shape, and mounting holes (if any)are drilled. The badge is polished at this point. The badge is then bent to the desired curve to fit the head tube.

If sheet copper was used, you may want to have it plated at this point. Plating may be chrome, nickel, gold, or whatever.

Colored enamel in the colors of your choice may then be flowed into the etched low areas. I usually use epoxy, colored with oil-based pigments, for its sturdiness and flexibility.

The etchants used are:
For copper, I use ferric chloride printed-circuit etchant from Radio Shack stores or from the source of the printed circuit transfer paper.

For aluminum, I use common household lye, as used for cleaning drains.

These are the basics. It will require a bit of experimentation and practice on your part, as there are ways of thinking which need to be cultivated (artwork is backwards, and needs to be a negative, etc.) You can usually
tell how deep the etch is by looking at it, so there are no
fixed etch times. The etchants are nasty, especially the lye, so you will need rubber gloves and eye protection.

With a little practice, the process is pretty simple. If you only need one head badge, the masking (asphaltum is best)may be painted directly onto the metal. The fundamentals of the process are shared with printmaking arts, so you might be able to find someone to take on the job who is a printmaking student at a college or art school. I doubt that you will find a commercial shop which will take on the job, as it fits into no common commercial processes exactly, although it uses aspects of several commercial technologies (photo silk screen, printed circuit board makers, cloisonne' jewelry making, etc.)

It is well worth going through the learning process if you have an interest in being able to offer such a specialized service to other people. You know that if you have a desire
for it to be done, that others have the same desire.

   RE:MISC:†††Custom made headbadge posted by Stacey on 1/6/2002 at 12:16:43 PM
Try nostalgic.net, they do headbadge restoration and one off creation. The guy to talk to is Dave. e-Mail; dave@nostalgic.net

LOWRIDERS:†††painting a crome-plated frame posted by: Lori on 12/31/2001 at 2:00:24 AM
I need some advise on how to paint a frame that is crome-plated. What steps do I take to make the frame paintable. Thank You in advance for any help.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††painting a crome-plated frame posted by JimW, on 12/31/2001 at 4:39:40 AM
You will need to steel-wool it pretty thoroughly, after cleaning it well. The steel wool will give the surface
"tooth", which will help the primer stick to it. Medium steel wool is about right. You could also have it sand-blasted, which requires less elbow grease. You can use spray can primer. Build up a nice thickness with several coats. Wet sand the primer after it's well-cured, with 400- grit wet-or-dry paper. Then apply your finish coats, which also may be spray can. You may need to wet-sand the finish paint with 600-grit, to remove overspray, etc. Then the finish may be polished with rubbing compound or plastic polish.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††painting a crome-plated frame posted by Stacey on 12/31/2001 at 11:27:03 AM
Steel Wool on Chrome? Puleeze! The only thing you'll accomplish is putting little shards of SW in the chorme (which will only turn to rust later on), wearing out your arm, and putting SW dust all over the place.

Sand blasting is the way to go. You can expect to pay around $20.00 for an average frame. No fuss, no muss, back in a day or two with PLENTY of tooth for the primer to grip.

Been there, done that.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††painting a crome-plated frame posted by Jeff on 1/1/2002 at 8:05:51 PM
Always use bronze wool, NOT steel wool. Steel wool will scratch the chrome, FYI.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††painting a crome-plated frame posted by sam on 1/2/2002 at 12:43:06 AM
OR you can send off and get the Eastwood catalog,they have several hot-coat colors for Chrome.You'll also need to find someone to apply and cure it or buy the real hi-dollar set up yourself(hot coating is done in most large cities so it should not be to hard to find soneone who does this)

   RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:†††painting a crome-plated frame posted by Sebastian on 1/2/2002 at 8:41:05 PM
isn't it cheaper 2 just get a painted frame to customize?

   RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:†††painting a crome-plated frame posted by JimW. on 1/2/2002 at 9:14:16 PM
I certainly wouldn't use steel wool on aluminum, as that's begging for electrolysis. Nor would I use it for rubbing out varnish on a wooden boat, and I definitely wouldn't use it for polishing chrome rims and spokes. But, for putting a dull finish on a chrome plated frame, in preparation for painting it, I'm not going to quibble about the evils of steel wool. It doesn't matter, in such a case. Let's face it
bronze wool is harder to find and more expensive to buy. Sand blasting is quicker and easier, if you happen to be conveniently located to a facility, and you don't mind paying $20 for a job you can do in a half hour with 2 bucks worth of steel wool and a modicum of elbow grease. I've been kustomizing cars and bikes for about a third of a century. In that time, I've learned most of the tricks, and invented quite a few of them. Every job has the right tool, and steel wool is a perfectly adequate tool for this job. The frame has to be cleaned to an immaculate level before applying paint anyway, and it's already made out of steel. This is an art or a craft, or a hobby- not a religion. If steel wool didn't have its uses, it wouldn't be so popular.
I certainly buy plenty of it, and they don't get much more professional than me, when it comes to painting things.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:†††painting a crome-plated frame posted by Stacey on 1/2/2002 at 10:02:49 PM
I bow to your deference.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:†††painting a crome-plated frame posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 1/4/2002 at 12:27:12 AM
Some of the old Raleigh Record Ace bikes were chrome plated and then they would laquer over that in the most marvelous shades. It's good to see you here, Jim!

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††painting a crome-plated frame posted by Catfood Rob on 1/16/2002 at 9:13:00 PM
If the chrome is in real good condition, as an experiment you could try just cleaning it then painting it...the paint wouldnt key in, and would scratch easy, but if its a looked after custom job, you just might get a superb color, try translucent paint, let the chrome shine thru.... experiment, you can always use paintstripper if you mess up, then go the steelwool/sandblast route.

CUSTOMS:†††Hello all... posted by: Rif Addams on 12/28/2001 at 5:54:29 PM
Hello all,
It's been quite a long time since I've been around. Sept. 11 really did a number on me and I had to go into my safe little cave to ponder and figure things out.
Combine that with my studies for midterm exams and then the holidays and well, you get the idea...
So anyway, I've been working on a Kustom for a friend of mine ( to match his kustom '52 Ford Coupe) and I have a problem with which I hope someone can shed some light.
Basically I've started with a pre-war Schwinn D.X. frame only, scrounged up a shimano 5-speed stick shift, and then picked up an old huffy mountain bike for parts. Rims with five speed cluster, forks, brakes w/ levers, neck. Thewn I picked up a set of the longhorn ("U"-shaped) handlebars, Old huffman crank and chainring (to match the negative space pattern of the spoke protecter on the rear wheel).
Everything was really falling into place and looks good.
Except for the brakes. I don't have the length on the brake arms (where the pads attach) to use the old 50's fenders. are there longer units available? would middleweight fenders work with this set-up and (whitewall) Balloon tires? Or should I just go ahead and set it up without fenders? Can anyone give me some hip tips to make it fit? :-}
Thanks all,
P.S. Hey Friend are you still kicking around out there?

   RE:CUSTOMS:¬†¬†¬†Hello all... posted by JimW. on 12/29/2001 at 5:37:41 AM
Interesting project, Rif. I agree with you, A.Friend is the guy to ask about it. He's probably solved this deal a dozen times already. What a resource!

In the meantime, the new BikeRod&Kustom is launched. You guys are getting the word immediately after Rif and the rest of the BR&K Editorial Board. I haven't quite figured out how to let the general mailing list know about it, since I'm now dragooned into using MS Outlook for my new E-mail acount. Anyway, it's well worth your checking it out.
Let us know how you like it.

   RE:CUSTOMS:†††Hello all... posted by sam on 12/30/2001 at 5:38:49 AM
Rif,try brakes off a raleigh 3-speed.You'll need to compair several.Some have longer arms where you put the brake pads.I know you're thinking they will not fit because they were made for those skiney English tires--but they also used them on their 20" folder that came with balloon tires and finders.And the older brakes have really nice chrome.---sam

   RE:RE:CUSTOMS:†††Hello all... posted by Rif on 12/30/2001 at 4:47:08 PM
Hey thanks Sam!
I'll look into that, I really appreciate the help!
Take it easy,

   RE:CUSTOMS:†††Hello all... posted by Stacey on 12/31/2001 at 11:21:48 AM
Rif, I have a Huffy... ahem "Mountain bike" that has some fairly long reach & wide bowed calipers. They're nondescript... no mfg. mark on them, but clean & bright.

Email me direct and we can discuss options.

In the wind,

   RE:CUSTOMS:†††Hello all... posted by A friend on 1/2/2002 at 1:08:11 AM
Do you need a friend Rif? Here I am". As for your question on the brake caliper, When i'm building a Kustom 26" and i'm going to use fenders with balloon tires, my choice of caliper is the rear caliper off a Schwinn Krate". The caliper arms are wider too go around the fender, and have a longer reach too grab the rim for braking. It sounds like you have one intresting prodject on your hands. I hope this will work for you.

   RE:RE:CUSTOMS:†††Hello all... posted by Rif on 1/2/2002 at 2:16:14 AM
Hey thanks!
I'll look into that. Nice to see you're still around Friend!
It is an interesting project and at first the idea sounded strange and I was picturing some awful Burton meets Dr. Suess abomination. But as parts came together and fell into place it really doesn't come off bad. It's not really garish.
I think it'll come off very nicely when it's finished. I say that with fingers crossed :-)
Anyway, take it easy and thanks all...

LOWRIDERS:†††Christmas posted by: Buck on 12/23/2001 at 11:30:59 AM
Marry Christmas

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††Christmas posted by Jimmy on 12/25/2001 at 8:08:04 PM
have a merry christmas all,and a happy new year!

LOWRIDERS:†††Frame-Reinforceing posted by: Sebastian on 12/18/2001 at 3:02:05 AM
Hi folx. I have some serious Problem.

I want to build THIS Bike: http://lowriderbike.virtualave.net/lrb/misc_sketchpad/img/easyorange4.jpg . But I'm not sure where to reinforce the Frame.
This Baby 's gonna be a RIDER - NO Trailerqueen - so it needs special attention to the frames strenght!
I think the best way is to weld the Seat into the frame for extra strength an use a larger/stronger (custom-) sissybar as "part" of the Frame.
Any suggestions?

Thank you.
Sebastian °LowStylez B.C. Hamburg, Germany° .... http://www.lowriderbike.de

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††Frame-Reinforceing posted by Mike on 12/19/2001 at 3:51:37 AM
You could use a piece of 7/8" steel solid rod filleted into
the top tube/tank. 7/8 inch is also the right size to clamp
the front of the banana seat to. The back of the seat could
be supported by a custom sissybar made from 5/8 inch solid
steel rod. The sissybar would be connected to the 7/8 inch
welded on "seat post" concealed under the banana seat, to
form the "seat stays". This arrangement should be lively
riding and strong.

   RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:†††Frame-Reinforceing posted by Sebastian on 12/19/2001 at 9:56:51 AM
Thanks Mike - that sounds pretty good. I think I'll do it this ("your") way.


P.S. I just received my new Schwinn-Steptrough-Cruizer :-) ... when I'm done with it it should look like this: http://www.lowstylez.com/transfer/schwinn_cust.jpg + a bent spring-fork and Chrome-Ducktail-Fenders. Maybe later I'll add some 144-Spoke-Wheels.

   RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:†††Frame-Reinforceing posted by Mike on 12/22/2001 at 2:38:04 PM
Who sells 144 spoke 26 inch wheels?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:¬†¬†¬†Frame-Reinforceing posted by JimW. on 12/23/2001 at 1:32:39 AM

Annette must be at the RBR Christmas party, or she would've
had the answer for you, I'm sure. Jim

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:¬†¬†¬†Frame-Reinforceing posted by sebastian on 1/2/2002 at 8:37:37 PM
Hey ho - happy new year 2 all of you! 2K+2 's gonna be a Kustom-Year! ;-) ..... btw. http://www.lovelylowrider.com 's selling 26-inch-144ers. DAMN NICE!

Sebastian įLowStylez B.C. Hamburg, Germanyį

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:¬†¬†¬†Frame-Reinforceing posted by Mike on 1/3/2002 at 3:36:23 AM
Yes, those 26/144's are nice enough to make me pop my wood
eye! I like how they're offered as complete units, gangsta
white walls and dice valve caps. I want a pair and a bent
springer fork, hmmm that would handle good with a 35 degree
head angle.

LOWRIDERS:†††16 and inch frame constuction plans posted by: Danz on 12/15/2001 at 12:05:57 AM
high im danz from the bottom of our planet, down here in new zealand, i so want buld a lowrider,but have no idea where to start , i have some nice ideas, but need construction plans, on how to buld a 16 inch lowrider frame and forks from the begining to end , if any body out there can help me buld a lowrider on a low budget, it would be cooler than ice, merry Xmas Danz

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††16 and inch frame constuction plans posted by Jimmy on 12/15/2001 at 4:16:57 PM
hello,to start off i never have heard of building your own frame and forks,i only heard of schwinn frames and reproductiond,and aftermarket forks.You could buy these for around 60.00 for that stuff.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††16 and inch frame constuction plans posted by Stacey on 12/16/2001 at 3:13:55 PM
Welcome aboard Danz!

Seems that Low Rider construction is prety straight forward. Take a frame, preferably 20" Cantilever design (like a Stingray) spend a bunch of $$$$$'s on pretty chrome pieces, among which are a pair of bent springer forks that render your bike unrideable.

Now, if you want to do a custom... that's another story. First, find a nice quiet spot where you can think and let your imagination go wild. Give yourself some time to do that. Get a good mental picture of what you want to build & how it looks to you. It helps if you have a pad and paper handy when you do this... you'll want to make notes or doodle out some sketches. Now you've got a direction it's time to plan the work. Will you have to cut? If so what, where, and how much. Welding? Then you'll need to grind, fill, file. Got the idea? Some things to keep in mind, it's your project... Do what you want to do, with whatevere resources you have. Keep it safe to ride and don't let anyone tell you "You can't do that." But most of all, Have fun doing it!

In the wind,

You can see my project at;

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††16 and inch frame constuction plans posted by sam on 12/16/2001 at 8:58:16 PM
Danz,Drop down and log on to Sabastians web site about 2 post below.He faced some of the same things your going through as there were no lowrider stores to buy parts in when he started.----don't give up and good luck!

LOWRIDERS:†††16 and inch frames constuction plans posted by: Danz on 12/15/2001 at 12:05:57 AM
high im danz from the bottom of our planet, down here in new zealand, i so want buld a lowrider,but have no idea where to start , i have some nice ideas, but need construction plans, on how to buld a 16 inch lowrider frame and forks from the begining to end , if any body out there can help me buld a lowrider on a low budget, it would be cooler than ice, merry Xmas Danz

LOWRIDERS:†††Fenders posted by: Jimmy on 12/11/2001 at 7:08:28 PM
hello,I got some fenders yesterday in the mail.they are made by WALD bicycle parts.They have all the write holes and everything but on the arch where they sonnect it doesnt have the right fit,it could can fit when you press in hard into it,but shuold I dent in the sides on those spots on both sides?or just leave it like that???Thanks bye.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:†††Fenders posted by Kim on 12/12/2001 at 5:13:25 PM
Make a litle dimple in them with pliers. Put a cloth over the chrome first.

AGE / VALUE:†††UPDATE! posted by: Sebastian on 12/5/2001 at 9:40:01 PM
aaaaaaaaaaaight Folx,
another Update @ Germanys #1-Lowriderbike-Site:


Some new Sketches @ "Misc." - "Sketchpad" and some new pictures @ "Misc." - "Chris' Scooter" and @ "Bikes" - "Stefans"

Sebastian °LowStylez B.C. - Hamburg, Germany°