This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
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Archived: Customs, Lowriders, HPV, Recumbent, etc.

WANTED:I WANT THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by: BOBBY on 10/23/2003 at 2:43:59 AM

WANTED:I WANT THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by: BOBBY on 10/23/2003 at 2:43:59 AM

   RE:WANTED:I WANT THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by JimW. on 10/27/2003 at 12:35:36 AM
If you're talking about SPIN T.H.U.G. composite mag-style rims- the last time I checked, their website was no longer in existance. That's usually a bad sign for corporate sites.

   RE:WANTED:I WANT THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by ziggy on 12/24/2003 at 10:52:19 PM
Go to www.lovelylowrider.com and go to the "parts" section and you can choose from chrome or gold spinners for a reasonable price. Merry Christmas.

   RE:RE:WANTED:I WANT THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by ziggy on 12/24/2003 at 10:58:51 PM
I forgot to mention that the spinners are listed under "knock off". Unless you already knew that spinners are also called knock offs, my tip would be helpful

CUSTOMS:Wild... posted by: Rif on 10/17/2003 at 4:11:58 PM
Okay Kids,
Check these out and let's hear your thoughts and opinions...
I'm not sure yet but am leaning towards pretty cool.

   RE:CUSTOMS:Wild... posted by sam on 10/19/2003 at 3:03:35 AM

   RE:CUSTOMS:More Mild thanWild... posted by AviationMetalSmith on 10/22/2003 at 3:49:06 PM
I don't see any wild bikes on that page. When you said "wild" I expected to see something with a long chopper fork. It's a page of cruisers with the Chysler name on them. (now I know who builds Jeep mountain bikes.)
I went to a hobby shop and got some Ford decals and put one on one of my recumbents, and everyone was fooled into thinking it was made by Ford.

   RE:CUSTOMS:   Wild... posted by bb on 10/23/2003 at 6:32:49 PM
Kinda cheesy looking Chryler bikes...

   RE:CUSTOMS:Wild... posted by Rif on 10/25/2003 at 1:55:36 PM
What I meant was that it was wild and kinda cool that they were making a PT Cruiser bike...
People on this site are starting to get a little snobbish.
Too bad this scene is starting to turn like every other scene...
Back to being a lone wolf again I guess...
Later Days,
Rif "punk as F*** and twice as ugly" Addams

   RE:RE:CUSTOMS:Wild... posted by Rif on 10/25/2003 at 2:39:04 PM
I appologize for that last post, I had a very rough morning and it spilled over onto the board.
Sorry about that. Hope y'all can forgive me.

MISC:Wyman Centennial stuff posted by: Rif on 10/12/2003 at 2:40:09 AM
I have just added a whole bunch of new pictures and text to the new George A. Wyman web site.
It can be seen at:
Click on the "road updates" link to see the new pic.s and read the beginings of the centennial ride across the country.
It took a while but i guess I'm starting to figure out this whole web site building, html writing, techno crap.
Keep the Tire Side Down,

FOR SALE:My bike is for sale posted by: R.D. on 10/10/2003 at 7:25:07 AM
I just put my bike on E-bay. It is a lowracer. Raced in the HPRA series. These don't come up for sale very often.
" http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dllViewItem&item=3630716588 "
I thought you would enjoy looking at it. R.D.

   RE:FOR SALE:My bike is for sale posted by AviationMetalSmith on 10/11/2003 at 1:34:42 PM
You left a question mark out of that url. It should read "dll?ViewItem&item". It's a nice bike. But I guess it's impossible to ship. The carbon fiber seat by Garrie Hill is worth the current bid. No, I'll have to turn it down because driving to Indianapolis is out of the question.

CUSTOMS:Various Subjects posted by: JimW. on 10/7/2003 at 2:49:01 PM
Hi, I just got back in town again. I see I missed some topics since I left. Here are some comments in order of appearance.

Two-legged center stands are available from:

Head Badges: Thanks to Rif for being so organized. However, since I posted that information, I've done more work with the transfer material. Drano will still etch aluminum, but I wasn't pleased with the way toner-transfer resists lye, so I don't recommend that combination now. Asphaltum paint will do a good job of resisting the lye, so a hand painted
resist will work fine. Asphaltum may be made by taking roofing tar and thinning it with mineral spirits. You can silk-screen asphaltum onto aluminum, and it will work for precision work. Note: Drano (lye with aluminum chips) is dangerous to work with. If you use it, wear skin and eye protection, as it will burn you. I normally use tweezers to remove the aluminum chips and shavings from it, before adding it to water. When lye reacts with aluminum, it gives off hydrogen gas, so always use it outdoors and away from flame.

All things considered, etching copper, using the toner-resist method and PC board etchant from Radio Shack is better. It's much less dangerous and more controllable. The copper may be plated after etching, and before painting.

The new issue of BikeRod&Kustom:
When I give a date for the next issue, I'm stating a goal, not signing a legal contract. As it happens, I was called out of town for paying work. BR&K is not paying work for me, although advertising is now covering the bare expenses for having it up on the web. This is an improvement, since it means that the thing isn't all coming out of my own pocket. However, I still have to earn a living. So, when I'm out doing that, I can't be laboring over BR&K. It's as simple as that. To make it even simpler for everyone; the next issue of BR&K will be coming out whenever I'm ready for it to happen. In this case, it'll be fairly soon, as I made headway on it before I left town. All the major editorial content is finished. However, doing the gallery pages is a major effort, as the stuff just keeps flowing in. I haven't even counted the new gallery bikes, but there's at least two dozen, and probably much more than that. This all takes time to put into web form, so I wouldn't advise holding your breath while waiting for it.

   RE:CUSTOMS:BR&K Update posted by JimW. on 10/9/2003 at 7:55:25 PM
The new issue is progressing nicely now that I'm back in town. There will be 32 new bikes added to the gallery. For those who might be interested: the BRK/Firebikes frame raffle is 92% sold out, as of this moment. This means that there are eight chances left. I'd like to have the winner's name in the new issue. Proceeds of the raffle will help defray costs for our recent bandwidth and site space upgrade. Those of you who were inclined to complain about the frequent bandwidth outages of BR&K, before the costly upgrade, are cordially invited to take the hint.

The raffle page is linked from the current issue's cover, or it may be accessed directly at http://bikerodnkustom3.homestead.com/raffle.html

CUSTOMS:Centerstand posted by: Brad on 10/4/2003 at 8:14:34 AM
Hi, I am trying to find a centerstand that I could use on my 3g chopper. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

CUSTOMS:Custom HeadBadge posted by: GMS on 10/3/2003 at 12:14:00 PM
Does anybody know the best way to make a custom headbadge? I am thinking something like a thin piece of sheat metal, that i can bend to a curve to smoothly fit the headtube......somebody else have a better idea? Anybody else try and create their own headbadge?? Any ideas would help, thanks 'GMS

   RE:CUSTOMS:Custom HeadBadge posted by Rif on 10/3/2003 at 3:22:28 PM
Jim Wilson has done headbadges. If you look in the archives you should find adiscussion on this topic.
If you do not find it, e-mail me and I will send it, as I saved the discussion thread for future reference.

   RE:RE:CUSTOMS:Custom HeadBadge posted by GMS on 10/3/2003 at 4:16:35 PM
I searched for it but couldn't find what you were talking about.....I made a couple of headbages out of this alumnium, seems to bee the stuff, i can put indentations in it easily to create a textured badge....ill put some pictures on my webpage when i get them done, they are simle in design, but orgional, and my first ones! what can i say.....

   RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS:Custom HeadBadge posted by Rif on 10/3/2003 at 5:59:11 PM
Hey, that's what it's all about right? Trial and error and refinement of the process.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with that. I ythink in all actuality the joy of creativity is in the creating of itself and not nearly as much in the finished product. That's art. Yes, once the process is refined and the finished product is what you imagined then great, but don't give up just because the first couple aren't exactly what you envisioned.
Just my 2 cents worth...

Here's Jim Wilson's way:
Kustom Headbadges

You can make your own etched head badges pretty easily. Electronic parts sources such as Digi-Key
sell 10-packs of a paper-like material which works in laser-printers of Xerox machines.
It's for making printed circuit etching masks. You print your design on the paper (backwards), then
use an electric clothes iron to fuse the printout to the metal surface. It is then soaked in
water until the paper substrate comes off. The design remains on the metal surface, acting as a mask
against the etchant chemical. You will need to apply some sort of resist to the back surface of the
metal. Asphaltum, a tar-like paint is very good.If you use copper, ferric chloride PC board etchant
will work well. This is available at electronic parts sources, including Radio Shack.
If you use aluminum, the etchant can be lye (Drano drain cleaner will work well). Bear in mind that
your mask needs to be a negative. The etchant eats into the exposed metal surface. You can get a
fairly deep etch with either process. After you've washed the etched metal and removed the resist,
trim the headbadge to shape and drill the mounting holes. Then you can bend it to the desired
curve. You can apply paint into to the etched recesses, or use dyed or pigmented epoxy resin, which
will give a thicker, durable coating.
RE:MISC: Custom made headbadge posted by JimW. on 1/5/2002 at 4:41:00 PM
I know several ways of making them, but I'm not looking for that sort of work. However, I can give
you some pointers on how to do it yourself.

Electronic supply companies (digikey.com, for one) have a paper-based material designed for making
iron-on masks for etching custom circuit boards. You do your artwork at the size you want it to be, in
reverse (backwards)and in negative You can also do it digitally. The material works in Xerox
machines or laser printers. The artwork is either xeroxed onto the transfer paper, or printed-out on it
from the laser printer.

The image is then ironed onto a piece of sheet metal. This can be aluminum, or copper, depending
upon the etchant.

Once the image is adhered to the metal, it is put into warm water to soak. After soaking, the paper
may be removed, leaving the image behind. The image will resist the etchant.
Everything but the metal under the image will be etched. The longer the metal is in the etchant, the
deeper the etch.
The back side needs to be protected by something. The classic process uses asphaltum paint, but you
can also use rubber cement, or many other coatings.

After etching, the etched area is lower than the original surface. The masking is removed from the
metal, and the metal is trimmed to final shape, and mounting holes (if any)are drilled. The badge is
polished at this point. The badge is then bent to the desired curve to fit the head tube.

If sheet copper was used, you may want to have it plated at this point. Plating may be chrome, nickel,
gold, or whatever.

Colored enamel in the colors of your choice may then be flowed into the etched low areas. I usually
use epoxy, colored with oil-based pigments, for its sturdiness and flexibility.

The etchants used are:
For copper, I use ferric chloride printed-circuit etchant from Radio Shack stores or from the source of
the printed circuit transfer paper.

For aluminum, I use common household lye, as used for cleaning drains.

These are the basics. It will require a bit of experimentation and practice on your part, as there are
ways of thinking which need to be cultivated (artwork is backwards, and needs to be a negative, etc.)
You can usually
tell how deep the etch is by looking at it, so there are no
fixed etch times. The etchants are nasty, especially the lye, so you will need rubber gloves and eye

With a little practice, the process is pretty simple. If you only need one head badge, the masking
(asphaltum is best)may be painted directly onto the metal. The fundamentals of the process are shared
with printmaking arts, so you might be able to find someone to take on the job who is a printmaking
student at a college or art school. I doubt that you will find a commercial shop which will take on the
job, as it fits into no common commercial processes exactly, although it uses aspects of several
commercial technologies (photo silk screen, printed circuit board makers, cloisonne' jewelry making,

It is well worth going through the learning process if you have an interest in being able to offer such a
specialized service to other people. You know that if you have a desire
for it to be done, that others have the same desire.

WANTED:Latest BR&K posted by: AviationMetalSmith on 10/2/2003 at 4:29:09 PM
Where is the September Bikerodnkustom? Last I heard the Issue was ready to go, but I haven't heard anything since.

   RE:WANTED:Latest BR&K posted by MEANIRISHMOFO on 10/3/2003 at 3:34:58 PM
Are you in the Navy AMS?

   RE:RE:WANTED:Latest BR&K posted by AviationMetalSmith on 10/6/2003 at 1:58:10 PM
To answer your question, I was in the Navy for four years.
The Aviation Structural Mechanic (Structures) requires a four year enlistment. I had built some fiberglass & Kevlar fairings before I enlisted, so I became very proficient at compostites, although the Navy taught me metal work too. Aboard the USS Saratoga (CV-60) I did fiberglass for other squadrons and got paid with cans of Coca-Cola.
One day off the coast of Bosnia some Royal Navy Officers came aboard looking for a tool to borrow. They needed a drill bit to drill a new hole in a Kevlar panel for one of their (HMS Invincible's) Sea Harriers. None of the USN A/C use Kevlar, but I had my 3/16 (the right size) spade drill in my locker. So I donated the drill bit to the Royal Navy.
Now I'm a Veteran, so I get Veteran's Benefits, which certainly helps because there aren't many who are willing to pay for the the bikes I build.

   RE:RE:WANTED:Latest BR&K posted by AviationMetalSmith on 10/6/2003 at 2:01:23 PM
To answer your question, I was in the Navy for four years.
The Aviation Structural Mechanic (Structures) requires a four year enlistment. I had built some fiberglass & Kevlar fairings before I enlisted, so I became very proficient at compostites, although the Navy taught me metal work too. Aboard the USS Saratoga (CV-60) I did fiberglass for other squadrons and got paid with cans of Coca-Cola.
One day off the coast of Bosnia some Royal Navy Officers came aboard looking for a tool to borrow. They needed a drill bit to drill a new hole in a Kevlar panel for one of their (HMS Invincible's) Sea Harriers. None of the USN A/C use Kevlar, but I had my 3/16 (the right size) spade drill in my locker. So I donated the drill bit to the Royal Navy.
Now I'm a Veteran, so I get Veteran's Benefits, which certainly helps because there aren't many who are willing to pay for the the bikes I build.

   RE:RE:RE:WANTED:Latest BR&K posted by Mike on 10/25/2003 at 11:44:43 PM
Hi Av', do you have any shots of your latest kustom bike
project? Anything as zoot as your sister's pink fairing bike?

CUSTOMS:homemade pipe bender posted by: brian on 9/25/2003 at 2:23:27 AM
ok heres the deal, ive been building bikes for a little while now, and its great using frames that are already there. but i want to start building my own , and i was wondering if anyone knew how i could make some kind of home made pipe bender. if anyone knows how to make one and what i would need please reply. thanks

   RE:CUSTOMS:homemade pipe bender posted by AviationMetalSmith on 9/27/2003 at 1:25:00 PM
I build my frames out of fiberglass, so I don't need one, BUT; if I was going to buy a welder and weld frames of metal, I'd use my Dad's pipe benders. He is an electrician, so he has a selection for different diameter tube. You might need to ones for rigid conduit.
One time I used the bender to make a roll cage for my bike.3/4 inch Electro Metallic Tubing.

MISC:What Year Is My Sekine Bike? posted by: Dr. Bunsen Honeydew on 9/17/2003 at 4:52:16 AM
Hi, I was hoping someone could help me with identifying my odd, Japanese bike. My research has turned up no information as yet. It's a Sekine model with the following unique characteristics: single oversize top tube, rear spring suspension in place of the seat stays, 14 X 3.00" tires (like wheelbarrow tires), solid rims (no spokes). The frame looks very much like a 1966 Raleigh RSW except with rear suspension. Any info. regarding this bike would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

LOWRIDERS:ideas posted by: metlhed on 9/17/2003 at 12:44:21 AM
hey guys, maybe someone here missed me:) i was just thinkin i would talk about some of my projects. My lowrider is lookin bad. the paint didnt adhear right and chips easily(even after a year!), so i think i might check into powdercoating it...?? My 24" custom just got new tires,sprocket,pedals,cranks, and a new straight springer. I am thinkin about restoring a new "sky ray" cruiser i got. and last but not least i still have my jc higgins frame with 1 coat of primer.. powdercoat it?? oh yeah i also got a 12 incher that i put a 26" fork and 15" apes on. rides great lol.
the reason for this was that i had some new ideas. like i paint the valve stems to match the bike! and i also thought about an airbag suspension. like a company should work on one to go in the spring or build a frmae that uses the on the rear triangles to lower it. it would be controlled by a samll compressor that you could put into a trailer(which a company should build...). any body else got some ideas? oh yeah where are you jim w ??? i mis hearing your thoughts. easy orange is one of the nicest bikes i have ever seen sebastian. one day i hope to be at your level:)

   RE:LOWRIDERS:ideas posted by sam on 9/20/2003 at 11:36:26 PM
Even Cool Guys like Jim W have to hit the old grind every now and then.He'll be back soon.Cool guys can't work all the time when there's fun to be had!Well , good luck in Cal., Jim ---sam

   RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:ideas posted by JimW. on 9/27/2003 at 3:48:58 AM
Gee, it's nice to be missed! I just got back from a work mission on the Left Coast, and before that I was putting all my time in on the editorial and business aspects of BikeRod&Kustom. The new issue will be out within two weeks. Among many other things, it'll have a feature on Killer Swan, my latest kustombike, finished about the time the last issue came out. I haven't counted the number of new gallery bikes, but it's really huge. And they're all nice, too.

Someone already makes an air spring for bike suspensions. Robert Q. Riley uses it in his GroundHugger XR2 carbon recumbent, I'm pretty sure. I couldn't immediately lay my hands on his planset, to find the name of the maker of it; but as soon as I do, I'll post it here. I think a small compressed-air tank would be a little more practical for bike use, so you wouldn't need a compressor to be hauled around. There are also small 12V compressors, of course, but the weight of the battery would still be a big factor.
Compressed oxygen bottles come in a wide range of sizes, and could easily be used with air to charge an air spring, and a propane torch tank could also be adapted for the purpose.

After the new issue is up, I'll be heading down to Baton Rouge for several months. Fellow Wizard Bro, Dave and I will be building a pair of our Candiru Roadster designs, and our Unlimited Recumbent flywheel-assisted Drag bike, in preparation for the '04 Abita Springs meet, happening next June. Drags will be a big part of the fun. The new BRK will have a piece on Drag Bike design, too.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:ideas posted by ziggy on 1/6/2004 at 8:52:40 PM
Neat ideas. Just bear in mind that powdercoating can be pretty expensive. You will pay about $200 to $500 dollars on lasting powdercoat.

MISC:Styrofoam cutter posted by: Harry on 9/16/2003 at 11:57:19 PM
how do I make a styrofoaf cutter? I'm going to make a tank out of styrofaom and want to build an electric cutter to provide smoother lines.

   RE:MISC:Styrofoam cutter posted by Stacey on 9/17/2003 at 1:42:39 AM
Check your local model railroad store. They have some real nice units for sculpting armatures, etc. Usually run about 30-35 bucks.

If you're bent on making one get Nichrome wire... Old toasters are a good source. Make sure things are electrically insulated AND your Life/Health insurance is paid up. If something goes wrong...

   RE:MISC:Styrofoam cutter posted by AviationMetalSmith on 9/17/2003 at 6:15:41 PM
What Stacey is talking about is called a "Hotwire Knife".
It is indeed dangerous because there is uninsulated wire carrying electricity!
When I built mine, I used ceramic insulators meant for a shortwave antenna which I bought at Radio Shack.
The top one was tie-wired to a screw in hook in the ceiling, and the bottom was tied to a concrete block on the floor. Are you an Electrician? I studied Electrical Engineering, so I know what I'm doing.
It is cheaper to buy a hair drier and take the Nichrome wire out of it than it is to buy Nichome from electrical supply in Brooklyn. A 50 foot roll will cost more than $50.00. A toaster is another good source.
Rubber gloves won't help you because the nichrome will glow red=hot and melt right through the rubber.
Then you get a double whammy, because besides being burned, you get an electric shock that can kill you!

I myself have given up the hotwire knife because I'm afraid of it.(dismantled).
I will stick to cutting the foam with a saw and sanding it smooth, even though it leaves a rougher surface.
Seriously electricity can kill you.

   RE:MISC:Styrofoam cutter posted by Richard on 9/18/2003 at 12:10:26 AM
If you go to any craft shop, they sell a good styrofoam cutter for next to nothing.

   RE:MISC:Styrofoam cutter posted by Rif on 9/20/2003 at 5:04:48 PM
Check out the build up article of 2-Much!!! on Bike Rod & Kustom-
Jim gives details on the foam cutter he built...
Great Zine!!! Sooo much good useful info...

CUSTOMS:Frame Sources posted by: Nexis1 on 9/15/2003 at 7:11:33 AM
Guys, where can I find affordable custom frames,(besides firebikes, there nice, but...) Does anyone know where I can get the replica Dyno roadster frames? I got Ideas, I need blank paper
Thanks in Advance

   RE:CUSTOMS:Frame Sources posted by Tom M on 9/21/2003 at 2:22:22 PM
http://home.comcast.net/'coltonenterprises/index.html You could try these guys, they have some nice bikes.
Tom M

   RE:CUSTOMS:Frame Sources posted by JimW. on 10/1/2003 at 5:30:03 AM
Dude! How cheap do you expect to buy a custom-built frame for? Firebikes frames go for maybe $300. Do you really expect Caucasian North Americans to build you a complicated frame for any less than that? I'll tell ya right now, when you have the opportunity to by a Wizard Bros frame, it's gonna cost you a minimum of $500. If you want a limited-production frame, you'd better be prepared to kick in some serious dosh. Otherwise, just stick to the usual ho-hum, trashy lowrider parts on the usual Schwinn frame, and get used to owning the usual zero-creativity ride. Or, you can actually develop some useful skills and design instincts, and make your own damn custom frame. Just don't expect anyone else to whip up a limited-production frame for you for peanuts. It ain't gonna happen, and you'd best get used to the idea.

CUSTOMS:Stretched 20incher posted by: Sebastian on 9/14/2003 at 8:47:44 PM
Hi all - here's another project I just started yesterday. Since I trashed my Schwinn Cruiser I felt like having another loooong and looooow ride. So I took my old 20inch lowriderbike frame (from my "MeanGreen" bike) and stretched it a bit. It now has an overall length of 2.20 meters. Pretty nice for a 20incher I think. Anyway - it's gonna roll on 24''x3 wheels on whitewalls (think I'm gonna get the ones by "nirve", paint will be dark metalflake red.

Here are some pictures of the work so far.


Sebastian °LowStylez B.C. Germany°

   RE:CUSTOMS: Stretched 20incher posted by Sebastian on 9/14/2003 at 8:54:37 PM
Oh - I almost forgot - don't be fooled by the way the saddle looks. It's gonna be droped about 20 to 30 centimenters. :)


   RE:CUSTOMS:Stretched 20incher posted by GMS on 9/23/2003 at 7:15:38 PM
Wow that thing is...i donno i have never seen anything like it! I know its still in the early stages, but it looks like a stingray crossed with a mountain bike!(is that what it is really?) THat thing is gonna be awsome looking when you get it done!Rock On!

   RE:RE:CUSTOMS: Stretched 20incher posted by Sebastian on 9/23/2003 at 9:38:29 PM
yeah, you're right. That's a Stingray replica frame with a 24inch mountainbike frame added to the back. Added about 60 cebtimeters this way.

Here's one of the last pictures.


In this picture it's rollin on 26inchers in the back and 24inchers in a 26'' fork up front. I moved the crank forward in an ergonomic position and to prevent the pedals from scraping all the time. Shortened the seatpost about 20 centimeters.

It's gonna get some more sheet metal all over for strength and a sleeker look.

cool thing about it is, I can put every wheel combo from 20'', 24'' to 26'' inch on it and it's still ridable. So I'm gonna put on 26inchers for long distance cruises, 24inchers vor daily ridin and 20s for that "low4show look". :-)

Stay tuned - more pics soon.

   RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS: Stretched 20incher posted by GMS on 9/24/2003 at 8:37:30 PM
wow man thats cool, i think i am gonna do something like that next for a project, just gotta finish my roadster first check it out http://granmastasplash.tripod.com/gms/id4.html
A bit of customizing on this, and for sure not done yet

   RE:RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS: Stretched 20incher posted by Sebastian on 9/24/2003 at 9:36:38 PM
GMS - thanks! .. here's a little update.


I just wanted to check out how it looks on 20s vs 24s .... surprisingly I like the 20 better. so prpably that's the way it will turn out - on 20s. I'll just slap the 24s on for longer rides.

btw: your project looks pretty clean! Good work!



   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS: Stretched 20incher posted by GMS on 9/25/2003 at 1:10:57 PM
Wow man that thing is comming along fast, i'd say the next step is to get like 15 feet of chain and take it for a test drive! And thanks for checkin out my project ;) LAter

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS: Stretched 20incher posted by Sebastian on 9/25/2003 at 7:12:02 PM
yup - propably - but first I have to make some chainlinks. I don't want the chain to run trough the frame - that would f**k up the look. I want to run it from the sproket to where the old crankhousing sits and go straight to the rear wheel from there. just have to figure out how to do that. I even thought about running one part of the chain straight THROUGH (inside) the bottom part frame for nobody to see - that'd be sooo cool - but I don't think that's gonna work.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS: Stretched 20incher posted by GMS on 9/26/2003 at 12:31:34 PM
SO are you saying that you are gonna have 2 seperate chains, one that goes from the crank, to another pulley on the frame, and then to the wheel? That would look way better than just a straight chain.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS: Stretched 20incher posted by Sebastian on 9/26/2003 at 12:45:04 PM
nope - it's gonna be a single looong chain but not running directly from the sproket to the rear wheel. It's gonna be linked where the old crankhousing sits and maybe from there the upper part of the chain (returning FROM the rear wheel) will run through (inside) the bottom part of the frame and the other part of the chain (running TO the rear wheel) will run just standard free. That's the plan - but as I said - I don't know how to get it inside the frame. Maybe I just cut some out of the frame and weld a tube for the chain to run in. That's gonna be less difficult when using a 3 or 7 gear hub out back because the upper part of the chain will stay at the same height all the time. I'll figure something out and let you guys know what I'm talking about.


   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS: Stretched 20incher posted by GMS on 9/27/2003 at 6:41:33 PM
Well that might work, but if it wont at first you can always modify that bike somemore to get it to work