This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
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Archived: Customs, Lowriders, HPV, Recumbent, etc.

CUSTOMS:   welding posted by: tone on 9/12/2003 at 9:44:17 PM
I need help ,I want to take my kustomizing bikes to a new level...i want to start cutting and welding to rake and stretch and maybe one day make my own frame...has any one done this on this site.Ive read a few welding books in the library and they all seem to say brazing with gas.Im thinking of purchasing one of those small porta oxy/aceolyne but I waiting to hear someone who has pulled up thier sleves and done it.I know i wont be able to do what I want right away but like everything else takes time and practice.

   RE:CUSTOMS:   welding posted by sam on 9/12/2003 at 10:32:26 PM
Been there,done that! I advise buying a large cyl. for the oxy/gas. and getting a cheap dolly truck(about $20) to make a roll a round stand.Those very small carry in a case rigs are one shot at best. Sure the bigger rig will cost a little more to begin with but realy pays off in the work dept.This step(welding) is more like a giant leap,You will not be sorry you did.---sam

   RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   welding posted by ziggy on 1/6/2004 at 9:03:09 PM
Instead of a gas welder, try looking for a MIG welder. However, watch out for welders priced under $100. They don't last long and are prone to defects. MIG welding is a lot easier than gas and it is a good start. When you go to weld the bottom of the headtube to the downtube, use the multiple bead method which is used on fillet welds. Once the four beads are made, the weld will be super strong. Also the welds can be ground down to look good. Look for a welding book and find a section where it talks about multiple bead fillet welds. Then you will see what I mean.

FOR SALE:   custom motorized bicycles posted by: Jeremy on 9/11/2003 at 6:17:10 PM
Check out Cali Cruzer for some cool custom motorized bicycles at www.calicruzer.com 48cc gas 2 stroke motor makes 2 horsepower and can reach speeds of 30+ miles per hour. Chain driven with a manual for a real motorcycle feel. Motor kits available to convert your bike motorized.

CUSTOMS:   WANTED Dyno Roadster posted by: Iain on 9/6/2003 at 8:22:46 PM
WANTED a Dyno roadster, I`m in the UK so I need a price for the bike and postage to Scotland.
cheers Iain

   RE:CUSTOMS:   WANTED Dyno Roadster posted by sam on 9/8/2003 at 10:58:17 PM
why get a dyno when you can get a cool firebike,www.firebikes.com

CUSTOMS:   and now for something completely different ... :) posted by: Sebastian on 9/4/2003 at 8:41:43 AM
aaaaight folx - here's a little update from my garage.

I just needed something custom.
So I took my old MARIN aluminum frame, painted flat black with white pinstripin and lettering. Just to show them gay-ass-plastic-mountainbike-freaks what hardcore style is all about. :-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ... no disrespect intended ;-) *hehe*
It's gonna get a double down fork today which is gonna get the flat black/pinstriping treatment too. I'm also thinging about painting the rims red - for that oldschool look.



MISC:   Need Some Help/ Resourses posted by: Thom Cull on 9/3/2003 at 10:47:06 PM
Hey all.
My Buddy and i have just recently gotten into low rider bikes, and we make our own. We are Planing on making a Trike but we need some help on the design.... Does anyone have a suggestion on where we can get some help or "inspiration" for our trike... Really appreciate it.

Send me some ideas / constructive critism for us to jughead64@hotmail.com

Thanks Alot.

   RE:MISC:   Need Some Help/ Resourses posted by JC on 9/5/2003 at 1:05:32 PM
Send email to Vinny here on this site. They built a sweet delivery trike for a restaurant here in the city that does free delivery. It is a fat tire 26" trike, all chrome with a cooler/storage in the rear and big flared fenders.

   RE:MISC:   Need Some Help/ Resourses posted by edgarecks on 9/5/2003 at 4:17:23 PM
Here's a pic of the one I built: http://groups.msn.com/KustomCruisers/customschwinns.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=340
Rides so nice, I wish I didn't have to sell it (unemployed)

AGE / VALUE:   paint posted by: sam on 8/29/2003 at 4:27:34 PM
I was really suprised at the difference in painting over a light color and painting over a black(primer).Just finished painting a deep red over black Primer.I knew it would give a deeper red but it supprised me at just how much a difference it did make.The bike has a black cheery look to it.The hard part is waiting for the paint to cure before I start the next step!---sam

CUSTOMS:   bicycles2go? posted by: Steve M on 8/26/2003 at 1:29:45 AM
Has anyone seen the cruisers at http://home.comcast.net/'coltonenterprises/page6.html ? They look cool but I'm interested in the quality. I'm thinking of using the Puma (http://home.comcast.net/'coltonenterprises/page83.html) as the starting point for a new project..

CUSTOMS:   Where to buy Nexus 7 hub and other parts? posted by: Steve M on 8/26/2003 at 1:29:45 AM
I'm building a few kustom bikes. I need a good price on the Shimano Nexus 7 speed hub/shifter. Local shops are saying $250. I know cost of these from JBImporters is about $100. Where can I get a sane price on these? I need a few of them.

MISC:   Chopper Bicycles posted by: James on 8/20/2003 at 3:26:32 PM
Hey is anyone here into building chopper bikes. I took a 20" Gt frame put some handle bars from a old banana seat bike on it and ground the thin pole that holds a cushion on the handle bars off. I also put a black banana seat and sissy bars and the swing arms and pedals and sprocket off of a fairly new Huffy mountain bike and used tube forks from the mountain bike for the extension off of the original Gt tube forks and last but not least painted it an orange color covered with a couple coats of Gloss polyurethane the color orange I chose is the kind of orange you would see on an old muscle car/ hot rod.

MISC:   Non compression cable for Shimano 3CC? HELP!? posted by: Miguel on 8/19/2003 at 11:15:30 PM
Okay, here's the problem! I have a Taiwan made Schwinn with a Shimano 3CC hub and complete shifter/cable setup on it, and a straight tube frame. I want to move this three speed over to my Cruiser which has a cantilever frame. The problem I am running into is that the Schwinn used the frame tubes as the housing, with a pivot wheel at the lower bracket. There's no way I can use this on my cruiser frame, since the tubes are curved. The tubes are also a MUCH bigger diameter in the same places on the frame, so the cable stop and pivot can't be used either. My solution would be to use a noncompression(indexable) cable housing, correct?? Can I still use the coated cable with that. Can I find a cable to use with this setup, non compression, full housing type cable, and put a cable stop close to the hub on the lower rear dropout tube??? I need professional help here, please?



   RE:MISC: Non compression cable for Shimano 3CC? HELP!? posted by Miguel on 8/21/2003 at 12:23:02 AM
I lucked out today. I found a bicycle shop that carried all types of parts. I got a new clamp style shift linkage that fit the 3CC, a housing, and a small cable stop to mount on the rear dropout tube. All I need now is to get the 3CC laced into my existing rim, hookup the cable, and adjust it. This is going to be one unique cruiser when I get done. So far I have switched it to a threadless headset with Electra triple clamp forks, added a chrome springer seat which I recovered in tan vinyl, chrome full fenders, longhorn handlebars, Dyno skull grips, Serfas black wall dualsports(soon to be dyno fire treads) and now the 3 speed rear hub. Add to that the flat black original paint, and it's lookiing pretty tough. I will have pics in a couple of days:-)

CUSTOMS:   Epoxy Resin for "The Spandex Trick" posted by: Philippe on 8/18/2003 at 9:42:28 PM
Jim W., where do you get the epoxy resin? I have been interested in using your technique to create a rear fender skirt for my lowrider bike, but I haven't been able to find the epoxy resin. I've tried Kragen Auto Parts and Orchard Supply Hardware and they only seem to carry Bondo Brand Polyester Resin. What brand do you use and where do you usually get it? Thanks!

   RE:CUSTOMS:   Epoxy Resin for posted by JimW. on 8/20/2003 at 1:08:44 AM
I usually get my epoxy at Industrial Plastics on Canal St. in NYC. It costs about $60 a gallon can, but is available in quarts for about $20 each. The hardener comes with it in a plastic screw-top jar. Many serious plastics outlets carry the stuff. The Ind.Plastics generic house-brand epoxy is used in the ratio of 1 part hardener to 7 parts resin, and it works fine.

You can also usually find epoxy resin at marine supply stores. West System is the leading brand of epoxy found at stores like this. It may be better than the generic stuff, but I've never noticed a huge difference in performance. It does come in clever metering pump containers which simplify getting the mixing ratio right.

Resin/hardener ratio is much more critical in epoxy than in polyester. Either too much or too little hardener will cause it to not set up at all, or to set up too soft. The best way to measure out the two ingrediants is by weight. But if you're careful, you can usually do it by volume and get away with it.

Probably the most accessable source of epoxy resin in most places is Home Depot. The HD paint department carries Bondo brand epoxy resin kits for boat repair. They also carry fiberglass cloth(woven) and fiberglass mat(felt-like). The epoxy resin kits they carry are equal-parts mixing ratio, with a quart of resin and a quart of hardener. A kit costs about $25. Since it makes a half gallon of resin, that's a pretty good price. We used this epoxy when we made 2much!!! our kustom recumbent trike cruiser, as it was more convenient to obtain in Baton Rouge. It's possible that an epoxy/fiberglass layup with this brand doesn't set up as quite as rigid as other types, but it's hard to say for sure without doing tests of two different resins with identical test layup forms. The Bondo resin was certainly acceptable, and will do the job. Equal-part mixing simplifies that operation considerably.

   RE:CUSTOMS:   Epoxy Resin for posted by Tone on 9/12/2003 at 9:35:32 PM
I just put a feder skirt on my bike using sheet metal riveted to the fender and layed bondo over it. My suggestion no matter what material you use to make the fender skirt measure your rear axel cut out a block of wood and jam it in where the axel goes,then install fender skirt.when I was finished I had to stretch the rear end to put the back tire on wich caused stress cracks on my perfect fender skirt.good luck..email me for a pic.

   RE:CUSTOMS:   Epoxy Resin for posted by Philippe on 9/26/2003 at 6:40:37 PM
Thanks guys for your help! I found another good resource for the epoxy resin, check out www.tapplastics.com, they have a bunch of different types available, and you can order online. I'm going to go pick some up today at their local store...

FOR SALE:   Swap Meet Specials - Northeast Bicycle Swap Meet 24-Aug-03 posted by: VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc. at OldRaods.com on 8/17/2003 at 3:19:16 PM

In addition to vintage cycles and parts, we're bringing new aftermarket parts and oddball tires to the swap at discount prices. For a list, go to the web site for the Northeast Bicycle Swap Meet:


Vin - VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc.

AGE / VALUE:   Ross/Apollo 5 speed posted by: Kate on 8/13/2003 at 7:36:12 PM
I recently aquired a Ross/Apollo 5 speed vintage bicycle. I am told that it is a 1969 or 1970 or there about.
It is in fair condition. I was wondering if anyone had an approximate value for such a bike.
Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

LOWRIDERS:   how does the nylon trick work when fairing a cantilever frame? posted by: Lownslow on 8/11/2003 at 9:53:24 PM
like the title says. i saw it on BRK done to a set of wheels. i want to do it to a frame but how do i make the nylon stick to the frame and does it stick once the epoxy is put on it.

   RE:LOWRIDERS:   how does the nylon trick work when fairing a cantilever frame? posted by JimW. on 8/16/2003 at 6:40:38 PM
It's not nylon, it's SPANDEX. Big difference. The best thing to do for learning about it, is to get some from almost any sewing/fabric store and play with it. The thicker the spandex, the better, as it will be stronger. Any shape you can get by stretching it over something can be "frozen" by soaking it in EPOXY resin. Other resins won't work, as they'll eat into the spandex, making it lose the stretched tension. There's more information on non-wheel applications of the trick at: http://bikerodnkustom3.homestead.com/2muchbuild.html

I found a nice 20" cantilever frame in the trash recently, and will be using it as an example of the trick in a future article in BR&K. Until then, here are some hints:

I recommend doing a frame in two separate halves- right and left sides. After doing one side, trim the spandex down the center lines of the top, seat, and down tubes, with a sharp knife. Use clear packing tape to mask to the cut edge of the finished side, before stretching the second side. Epoxy doesn't stick to this tape. It also doesn't stick to most thin flexible plastic films, like Saran Wrap. If you don't want the spandex/epoxy to stick to the frame, so you can remove it, wrap the frame in plastic film. The half skins can be popped off the frame. If you want it to stick well, strip the frame of paint by sandblasting it, or sanding it before the operation, and don't wrap it in film. The stretched skin will stick really well, since epoxy is an excellent adhesive. You can carve and shape foam pieces to attach to the frame, where you want to change the shape. The spandex skin will follow the form, to put seamless bulges (like tank forms) where you want them. The articles in BR&K will give you the basics of using the trick; but experimenting with it yourself is the best way to learn about it.

AGE / VALUE:    posted by: Uncle Punk on 8/10/2003 at 4:51:24 AM
Hey dudes!
Check this classic Kustom one out: