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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

AGE / VALUE:   vista posted by: nick on 8/21/2000 at 3:55:31 PM
found: vista carrera 7. made by NIDA. fancy lugs . all steel components exept for alloy shifters. cotter bolted on cranks. suntour shift group. cheap steel polygon centerpull brakes. steel rims. if anyone can tell me anything about this bike it would be great. thanks serial # B00214

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   vista posted by Keith on 8/22/2000 at 7:44:26 AM
I don't know this brand though it rings a bell. In general, steel rims denote a low-end bike (there are exception, like older British bikes with stainless rims). The other components you describe are consistent with this view. The only possible way this bike is other than low-end is if it's a good frame that's been downgraded over time. Check the dropouts. If they're plain and unbranded, then it's low-end. If they're name brand, Campagnolo, Simplex, Suntour, or Shimano, etc., it may be a nicer bike in disguise. If it's low end then it might be worth fixing up as an erand-runner, but you should not put money into it or expect to sell it for more than the going gagage sale price of $10-20.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   vista posted by Art on 8/23/2000 at 4:40:54 PM
I had a Mexican made Windsor bike once that carried the name Carrera. It sounds just like your description.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   vista posted by nick on 8/23/2000 at 9:58:24 PM
by the way its in perfect condition (no rust/no scratches

AGE / VALUE:   more on Miele road bike posted by: Ron Bernardo on 8/21/2000 at 3:21:03 PM
in response, more information on my Miele road bike. ITM italmanubri-handlebar, Suntour index conti-shifters, Shimano-caliper brakes, Suzue(sealed tech) front and rear center hubs, Miele by Ambrosio(Italy)-rims, Sakae SX front/rear gears, Suntour 4050-front/rear deraeleurs. the serial # is:W8060171. thank you in advance.

AGE / VALUE:   cloth handlebar tape posted by: ChristopherRobin on 8/21/2000 at 10:03:27 AM
What happened to Tressosar? Did they go out of business? You know, Tressosar handlebar cloth tape. French, red box. I have a pair of boxes of tape in yellow. If I go back and pull everything out and get Anthony so mad at me for making a mess in his shop like last time I will likely find more of this tape. Problem is I will have to go pulling out box after box and they will ask me to go get lunch, and there is no bathroom there. He will yell, "You better put all that stuff back just like you found it" Last time you left all this in a terrible mess!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   cloth handlebar tape posted by Aldo Ross on 8/25/2000 at 5:42:58 AM
Tressostar is still available from Rivendell (http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/) or Bicycle Classics (http://www.bicycleclassics.com/). Price is about $3/roll, remember you'll need 2 rolls. Colors still available are white, yellow, red, green, lt blue, dk blue, and black. You can also custom-color white tape by using RIT dye.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount (?) for sale on ebay posted by: Brian L. on 8/21/2000 at 7:41:15 AM
I was wondering if someone could identify the Schwinn frameset for sale on ebay that is gradually escalating in value. Looks pretty high end. Pictures are poor and seller is not sure of model. Here is what I can discern: flat fork crown, diamond reinforcements on water bottle inserts (2 sets), pointed lugs on bb, short horizontal r dropouts that do not appear to be campy, chrome possibly full frame under paint, top tube cable guides.

Also, has anyone checked out the beautiful Malvern Star track bike, '34 vintage, that also just got listed?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount (?) for sale on ebay posted by Keith on 8/21/2000 at 8:46:54 AM
Brian -- please post the number of the Schwinn frame. In the 80s, Waterford made Paramounts with fairly plain lugs, and used a variety of tubing, including Columbus, Reynolds, and True Temper. Also, in the 80s, some second-tier models, like the Super Sport, were made in Japan with Columbus Tenax, for example, and spec'd with early Shimano 600 SIS. I had a used one -- the bottom bracket shell cracked, but I don't know if that was a defect or abuse by the original owner.

   BB shell failure posted by John E on 8/21/2000 at 10:23:11 AM
According to my own experience and discussions with my local
bike shop, the bottom bracket shell is a very common failure
point for lugged Japanese CrMo frames. I retired my 1970
Nishiki in the early 1990s, when the seat tube lug broke
off the top of the BB shell. To its credit, Derby
International, Nishiki's new owner, would have honored my
lifetime frame warranty by giving me a $150 (the original
purchase price of my bike) discount on a new Nishiki.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount (?) for sale on ebay posted by Brian L. on 8/21/2000 at 10:59:37 AM
Hesitated to post this, because I just figured that it would encourage more people to bid, but what the hell: #414690374

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount (?) for sale on ebay posted by Keith on 8/21/2000 at 12:58:12 PM
The pics are terrible! But I agree -- those are not Campy dropouts. But I think even Paramounts in the 80s used a variety of droputs. But this looks a lot like the Super Sport I had, which had chome fork tips, and possibly had chrome further up that would show like this if stripped and repainted. It was Columbus Tenax -- the sticker was placed low on the seat tube. Remember the bottom bracket shell! I'll have to ask around about that tendency -- I'd doubt that it would apply to all makes of Japanese bikes -- there were and are a number of them, some pretty highly regarded. I'd think generalizing about them would be like generalizing about American bikes, or Italian bikes, or English bikes. Yeah, there are some national consistencies, trends, and general styles , but always lots of exceptions. The Japanese are no less talented than Europeans or Americans, so I'd think across the board defective bb shells would be a constant, unsolved problem for all makers. Of course my Father, God rest his soul, was a steel salesman, and swore up and down in the 80s that Japanese steel was not as good! Hmmm.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount (?) for sale on ebay posted by Keith on 8/21/2000 at 1:02:02 PM
P.S. I meant it would not be an unsoleved across the board problem. Anyway, this has always been a civilized site -- personally if someone else here said they were interested in something on Ebay or elsewhere, and I hadn't already started bidding myself, I'd refrain and give them dibs as a courtesy.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount (?) for sale on ebay posted by Keith on 8/21/2000 at 1:52:52 PM
Not to babber on and on, but . . . you should contact the seller and get the serial number. Then go the the Waterford site -- you should be able to tell by what's in the serial number whether it's a Paramount, and if so the year and month of manufacture (as I recall it's a very simple numbering system). Okay, enough already!

   common failure points posted by John E on 8/21/2000 at 3:43:37 PM
I do not know how general the problems are, but my local
bike shop owner claims that various brands ultimately
exhibit fatigue-related frame failures at predictable
locations. I'm batting 1000 (a statistically lousy 2 out of
2) against his observations (Peugeot chainstay, Nishiki BB
shell). Anyway, it's kind of interesting...

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount (?) for sale on ebay posted by jim on 8/21/2000 at 8:27:41 PM
The mystery frame on e-bay is probably a Peloton! I have one just like it with the same pump peg on the head tube, the same spacer on the bottom rear stays and the same columbus sticker near the bottom bracket.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount (?) for sale on ebay posted by Keith on 8/22/2000 at 7:21:43 AM
Re Japanese bb shells -- since there were more brands than there were factories, this could definately lead to an impresion that an overall probplem existed. That is, one Japanese shop might have made bikes for any number of brand names. Also, I have no idea who in Japan made lugs and bb shells -- if one manufacturer dominated, then it could explain a widespread problem, though I'd still wonder if it would go unsolved over a long period of time. (I'd bet that Miyata made its own lugs, etc.) Sheldon Brown has a page on Japanese bikes, and seems to think pretty highly of them. I wonder if he's heard of a Japanese bb shell problem.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount (?) for sale on ebay posted by Michael Wong on 8/25/2000 at 7:42:54 PM
Not that it matters anymore, but I strongly suspect the frame to be a 1987-1990 Schwinn Circuit. It has a Columbus sticker that says "Tretubi" on the bottom and is a mix of SL/SP on the three main tubes. The big giveaway is the chromed aero stays. Neither the SuperSport, Tempo or Peleton had that feature on their respective framesets.

The Circuit frameset itself is one to definitely stay away from. There was a major corrosion problem on all of the lug and tube junctions. Schwinn reps were quite aware of it at the time but did nothing about them for the consumers even after inspecting the bikes (even stating that "you live near the ocean" to some customers). They were probably under orders to not do any warranty replacements since they were soon to file Chapter 11.

The cartridge bearing Suntour BB often became permanently bonded to the frame because of the rust problem. The bikes typically had a Suntour Sprint or Sprint 9000 gruppo on them and later Schwinn switched to Shimano Sante on the post-1989 models.

Whoever bought the bike for $86 bought a lot of headache...

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount (?) for sale on ebay posted by Brian L. on 8/28/2000 at 7:38:57 AM
I ended up not buying the bike once it climbed over $50, and now I'm glad. Thanks for the info. That model doesn't turn up very often and it sounds like for good reason.

MISC:   Riding again - WOW posted by: Ken on 8/20/2000 at 5:31:47 PM
About three weeks ago I blew the dust off my '73/'74 Crescent
(Peptito?? - Campy hubs, Reynolds 531, etc) and started riding
again, after 25+ years (I bought this bike used from a friend
in 1975 and I never rode it) WOW what fun. I am now addicted
again. You should see the looks I get from other modern day
riders (with my bright orange bike, chrome toe clips, etc).
I have fallen in love all over again. So much so, my wife
wasn't too surprised when I brought her home a '99 or so
Raleigh Technium ($100.used-perfect-local) and asked her to
step off her tank of a mountain bike and get on something
real. Off we went, now she likes going uphill even more than
down hill. I'm re-living my youth again @ 40 yrs.old. Wow,
my legs even came right back into shape and i'm climbing hills
even better than i ever could. Vintage or otherwise something
tells me bikes are back.......in a BIG way.

   RE:MISC:   Riding again - WOW posted by Keith on 8/21/2000 at 5:37:30 AM
Ken -- welcome back!!! I hope your story is repeated by many others -- that as cyclists we awake from the sluggish sleep of the mountain bike world and redisover the romance and speed of real road riding. Go farther, go faster, and see more of the world! That's road riding.

   old road bikes posted by John E on 8/21/2000 at 10:40:38 AM
I really like the better steel road frames from the 1960s,
'70s, and '80s. They are fun, practical, and great-looking.
Enjoy the ride!

AGE / VALUE:   MIELE ROAD BIKE posted by: Ron Bernardo on 8/20/2000 at 2:07:56 PM
I have just bought a Miele road bike with Ishiwata 4130 tubing. I have been trying to find out more about this bike, since new to this hobby. I cant find any website in the internet also. Someone told me the company closed down. Please help.

    MIELE ROAD BIKE posted by John E on 8/21/2000 at 6:25:32 AM
I believe they were made in Canada. They may be related to
the "reborn" Peugeot cycles company. I recall seeing Miele
frames at El Camino Cyclery, Encinitas CA, in the early to
mid 1980s. If you list the bike's equipment, including
number of rear sprockets, number of chainwheel teeth, etc.,
someone can probably help narrow down its age. As far as I
know, your Miele is a decent ride, but not a collectible.
Since I have not seen a Miele in years, it is indeed likely
that the company either closed or was acquired by another,
possibly during the decade of consolidations that followed
the big bike boom of the 1970s.

MISC:   George finally cleans out the garage posted by: ChristopherRobin on 8/19/2000 at 8:38:37 AM
Finally got to buy the whole lot of old parts that were buried behind my friends old Dodge. I've only waited 6 years to do so. I have seen some pack rats in my times but this is unbelievable.

   RE:MISC:   George finally cleans out the garage posted by Brian L. on 8/19/2000 at 8:59:18 AM
Are you just going to leave us all hanging in suspense?

   RE:MISC:   George finally cleans out the garage posted by sam on 8/19/2000 at 10:17:37 AM
What year's the Dodge!

   RE:RE:MISC:   George finally cleans out the garage posted by ChristopherRobin on 8/21/2000 at 10:12:41 AM
The dodge is a 1937 and the thing was in my way for too long.

MISC:   derailluer adjustment posted by: gary on 8/18/2000 at 1:14:57 AM
Can anyone tell me what to do when your chain comes out while shifting the front derailleur?

   front derailluer adjustment posted by John E on 8/18/2000 at 7:12:47 AM
My front derailleur adjustment recipe:

Step 0: Inspect your chainline. It may not be perfect, but
the center chainring or the space between dual chainrings
should line up somewhere near the center of the rear cogset.
Step 1: Inspect the front derailleur. If the cage is bent or
the bushings are sloppy, repair or replace the unit before
proceeding. Lubricate the cable and the bushings.
Step 2: Inspect the crankset. If the bottom bracket bearings
are loose, adjust or replace before proceeding. If the
chainrings are bent, repair or replace before proceeding.
Step 3: Adjust the angular orientation of the front
derailleur so that the cage is parallel to the chainwheels.
Step 4: Adjust the height of the front derailleur so that
the bottom edge of its cage barely clears (e.g. by 1mm) the
teeth of the outer chainring during shifts.
Step 5: With the bike in its lowest gear, set the low gear
limit screw so that the inner edge of the cage clears the
side of the chain by about 2mm. Make sure the limit screw,
and not the shift cable, is limiting inward travel of the
front derailleur. If necessary, loosen the cable to make
this adjustment.
Step 6: Adjust the cable length such that there is no slack,
but also no tension, in the low gear position.
Step 7: With the bike in its highest gear, set the high
gear limit screw so that the outer edge of the cage, at the
outer limit of travel, clears the chain by about 2mm. If
necessary, pull on the shift cable to ensure that the limit
screw is being engaged.
Step 8: Test ride, and make minor tweaks, if necessary.
Step 9: Happy cycling!

   RE:MISC:   derailluer adjustment posted by gary on 8/19/2000 at 12:25:52 AM
Thanks for your reply. I'll definitely go ahead and try that. I'll let you know how it goes.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   motobecan nomad posted by: nick on 8/17/2000 at 10:27:26 PM
can anyone give me some info on a motobecan nomad im guessing its a lower end motobecan; because it looks to me that the head tube has an imprinted/embossed fake lug look on it. besides that it has no lugs. it has some steel components and some alloy components. the handlebars curve up and stop short. mavic rims / normandy hubs / shimano 600 derailure / michelin tires / rapid fire shiters / newer bike / red.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   motobecan nomad posted by: nick on 8/17/2000 at 10:27:26 PM
can anyone give me some info on a motobecan nomad im guessing its a lower end motobecan; because it looks to me that the head tube has an imprinted/embossed fake lug look on it. besides that it has no lugs. it has some steel components and some alloy components. the handlebars curve up and stop short. mavic rims / normandy hubs / shimano 600 derailure / michelin tires / red / newer bike

AGE / VALUE:   hiawatha bicycle posted by: ron on 8/17/2000 at 5:02:02 PM
hoping someone could help me to find the year & approx. value of this bicycle I have. It has a Hiawatha emblem on the neck. the front end has suspension (curved spring steel) single speed,womens frame,carrier rack over rear fender. appreciate any info.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Girardengo decals posted by: Aldo on 8/17/2000 at 12:04:54 PM
I've got an early 1960s Girardengo which has been repainted, and I'd like to know what the original decals looked like. Anyone else have one, in original colors?

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   PX-10 on Ebay posted by: Keith on 8/17/2000 at 9:53:45 AM
All you Peugeot PX-10-ophiles should take a look at this one: item # 406 592 804 (not mine). Nice red paint -- okay, Prugnat instead of Nervex, but awefully clean. Also nice metal Simplex. It's over 400 at this point. Is the seller (jbolivar) anyone who frequesnts this site?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   PX-10 on Ebay posted by Tom Adams on 8/18/2000 at 4:53:05 AM
The PX 10 went for $685. An equivalent Paramount would probably have gone for a little more, but not too much. I was watching it as a potential parts donor.

Tom Adams

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   PX-10 on Ebay posted by Keith on 8/18/2000 at 6:50:17 AM
I've seen decent=looking Paramounts go unbid on Ebay -- the last was a '72 w/extra wheels -- $455 was the highest bid and did not meet the reserve. There's a very clean-looking Paramount on Ebay now with a $700 minimum -- it'll be interesting to see if it gets any bids.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   PX-10 on Ebay posted by Keith on 8/21/2000 at 7:37:03 AM
The paramount went for over $1000. Although a '72, the decals looked more recent to me. I couldn't tell for sure, but the brakes looked like Gran Sports (seemed to lack the beautuful cam quick release).

AGE / VALUE:   Claud Butler found! posted by: John on 8/16/2000 at 5:47:03 PM
I found this bike set out by the curb as trash. I think it is a wonderful and fun find! A patina'd/rusted complete bicycle with clearly visible Claud Butler lettered on down tube with nicely detailed CB head badge (looks like rectangle olympic rings in the badge design with CB in a circle). Beautiful details on frame, nervex lugs, brake cable guides, only right shifter guide - bike was set up as a 5-speed. Campy steel Grand Sport rear Der, Universal Mod 61 brakes and levers, totally rotted Lygie saddle, ornate aluminum stem and bars. Steel cottered cranks - cant see brand under rust. Had cheap Japanese wheelset. Please help me date and research.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Claud Butler found! posted by Keith on 8/17/2000 at 5:48:42 AM
Wow! Another classic rescued! Others will no doubt refine this, but the steel Campy and Universal 61s suggest 1960s to me. Bravo!

   outstanding! posted by John E on 8/17/2000 at 7:37:32 AM
Campy introduced the steel Gran Sport in 1951, revised it
in 1954, and replaced it with the Record in 1963 [Berto,
et al., "The Dancing Chain"]. It sounds like a late 1950s or
very early 1960s frame to me. What you need is a nice pair
of high flange Campy Record hubs. I have seen later-vintage
Geoffrey Butler frames -- does anyone know whether these two
gents were related?

This sounds very similar to my $20 garage sale c.1960 Capo,
which still had its original Gran Sport derailleurs and
first-generation Weinmann center-pull brakes, but whose
first owner had replaced the original Campy-hubbed wheels
with a Shimano-hubbed set. It's really tragic, because my
experience has demonstrated that well-maintained Campy hubs
are good for at least 50K miles.

   RE:outstanding! posted by Brian L. on 8/17/2000 at 9:22:38 AM
Score!! I think that cyclesdeoro.com under vintage english lightweights has some info that may apply.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Claud Butler found! posted by Hilary Stone on 8/19/2000 at 2:15:50 AM
It does sound like a 1960s Claud to me. The frame number may be a clue. 50s Clauds generally have a frame number beginning with the last two digits of the year eg 53..... followed by quite a number of digits. 60s Clauds generally have four or five digit numbers. But dn't be misled by tThe Dancing Chain re Campag Gran Sport gears. The Campag Gran Sport rear gear was not replaced by the Record. The Record was a higher end addition and the steel Gran Sport continued until 1967 at least. The Record continued until 1971 or 1972. Unfortunately it os one of a rather large number of mistakes in The Dancing Chain which will become to be accepted as the truth. A group of us have been working on corrections in England and we hope soon to have a corrections sheet available which will also present a full list of sources and references for these corrections.
Geoffrey Butler and Claud Butler were not as far as I know related but they may have shared framebuilders as the framebuilders in South London frequently moved from one establishment to another.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Claud Butler found! posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 8/19/2000 at 8:19:48 AM
Someone threw away a Claud Butler bicycle? I would faint if I found one of these out by the kerb.

   D.C. errors posted by John E on 8/20/2000 at 12:48:39 PM
Thank you for your observations regarding errors in "The
Dancing Chain." I detected a few myself, and Mr. Berto
responded most graciously to my emails. Do you plan to post
your corrections and comments anywhere on the web? By the
way, none of this detracts from the DC -- I still recommend
it highly.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Claud Butler found! posted by John on 8/25/2000 at 6:29:34 PM
Thank you all for the replies. More detail as I cleaned and disassembled. Cranks are Gnutti cottered steel, 3-arm. Serial number on bottom bracket shell was two series of three numbers, one series above the other (411 and 6?? - I forget). BB Shell is stamped Nervex with a long patent number. Rear dropouts are serrated. Still wish to find how to date and find catalogue source material. It may have been trash, but now it is treasure and mystery. Perhaps some of our friends from England know of some literature to search out.

   RE:RE:outstanding! posted by John W. on 8/26/2000 at 9:50:16 PM
Looking through the this discussion I came across the 1960 Capo reference. Today I bought an old restored Capo. I don't know anything about this brand. I'd like to list the components to see if anyone recognizes them. Frame has a screw on nameplate in script and a nickel-plated roman soldier on the seat tube. The rims are super competion 27''. the hubs are Miche competition. The stem is ambrosia. The seat-post is Birmalux. Shift levers are campagnolo, shifters are shimano 600 front and rear. The crankset and sprockets are stronglight. The quick releases are cycle pro. The pedals are atom +40. The brakes are universal s61 rear and 68 front. Finally all of the small clamps that hold the cables to the fram are campagnolo. The frame number is #42590. The reason I bought the bike is i liked the picture of the Roman soldier on the seat tube. Can anyone tell me what I bought at a local garage sale for ten bucks? Thanks for any replies.

AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Competition posted by: Tim Welsh on 8/16/2000 at 4:52:10 PM
I have had for a while now a lovely 1970's (?) Raleigh Competition in very nice shape. I bought if from its original ownwer, who said he had made changes but was not specific what they were. The bike is all butted 531, including fork & stays, 'hand-built'. The paint is black with beautiful Gold & Silver pin-stripe graphics, and (unlike other Ralieghs I have seen) the 'Raleigh' script on the frame is fine, not block style (it is the usual block style on the cranks). I am surprised that the components are only mid-level Suntour (VRX), with such a nice frame. Could these be the right components? Should I stick with these ones, or try to find the right era Campy components? Any thoughts?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Competition posted by Keith on 8/17/2000 at 5:54:32 AM
There's a Raleigh site -- Retro Raleighs or something like that -- that year-by-year specs of the Competition, International, Professional, and Super Course. It also has Raleigh catalogs from that era. My memory is sketchy on this, but I think late 70s Competitions had Nouvo Gran Sport, while earlier ones were spec'd about the same as a PX-10, with Simplex and Stronglight. The site will tell you. Suntour does not sound right for the 70s for a Competition, but would probably work better than either the Simplex or Nouvo gran Sport anyway. But enough of my guesswork -- go find the Retro Raleighs site!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Competition posted by Keith on 8/17/2000 at 6:17:53 AM
I just went to the site -- and the late 70s Comps were indeed Nouvo Gran Sport. I only checked the '73 Catalog for earlier specs, but it shows Huret Jubilee/TA/Weinnman for the Comp. Personally, I'd stick with the Suntour unless you're dead set on a 100% "correct" bike.

   form versus function posted by John E on 8/17/2000 at 7:45:22 AM
If the frame is in superb shape and you want an authentic
Retro Raleigh, then perhaps you should get either the
French or Italian component group, assuming you can
determine your model year from the serial number. If you
want a nice daily driver, keep the SunTour and consider a
7-speed freewheel.

   RE:form versus function posted by Brian L. on 8/17/2000 at 9:25:42 AM
Speaking of Raleighs, there is what appears to be a very nice one on ebay for around $20.00 (due to crack in r dropout) that I am not familiar with: heart cut-out in head lugs, all 531 db, but Suntour "Pro" drop outs. Is this a late Professional, or perhaps some US specific variant? It is definitely not one of the "Racing USA" models.

   RE:RE:form versus function posted by Keith on 8/17/2000 at 10:19:27 AM
The headbadge looks plastic and does not say "Nottingham" so I don't think it's English. Also, the Reynolds sticker does not appear to be the diagonal top of the like full db one, so I don't think this was a top-end model like a Professional. I wouldn't be surprised if it was Japanese -- I have an early 80s Japanese Lotus made with Columbus tubing, so it must not have been too unusual to ship European tubing to Japan to be brazed. I recently looked at a mid-80s 531c Raleigh -- it had a Nottingham badge, and the red/blue team colors that were also used on some of the U.S. models. It had plain pointed lugs.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Competition posted by Keith on 8/17/2000 at 10:22:25 AM
I would add that my '71 International has the fine, gold script lettering -- so I think that indicates yours is also early 70s.