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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

AGE / VALUE:   Don't Laugh Please !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by: Kevin K on 1/31/2001 at 11:53:45 AM
Hi. I picked up an Austrian made Sears bike today. $5 in excellent condition. I bought it as the aluminum feneders are perfect and thought they would look nice on a Raleigh project I'm finishing up. The components of the bike are German, Italian and Austrian made. As I got this bike stripped pretty well down to the frame, I picked it up to set it aside. It is very light in weight. So I started to tap it lightly with a screwdriver, the frame "pings" it makes the same nice sound as a 531 frame I once had. Are these bikes made from quality tubing and simply have crummy steel dropouts, or is this just a " fooler ".Just lookin to learn as much as I can about bikes, so any ideas would be great. Thank you,. Kevin

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Don't Laugh Please !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by Oscar on 1/31/2001 at 12:49:20 PM
Back in your bike's day, people shopped at Sears for quality items. Ain't nothing wrong (or fancy) about those Austrian bikes.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Don't Laugh Please !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by Keith on 1/31/2001 at 1:01:33 PM
I have owned a few of these Austrian Sears bikes, the 3-speed variety. I believe they were made by the same outfit that made Austal Daimler and Puch, which did produce models with 531 tubing. The plain droputs point away from 531, although some mid-range bikes, like the Raleigh Super Course, used 531 main tubes and had plain dropouts. I know the nice rings frame can make, and I've heard people claim they can tell whether a frame is double butted by the "ping" but with all due respect I think there's a bit of Emperor's new cloths in what we hear. I've personally come to conclude the ping has more to do with cable routing and clamps than frame material. I also know that the Austrian Sears 3-speeds are lighter gauge in about every respect compared to the Raleighs they mimic, and possibly thinner tubing could give a nice ring. (If you take the bike apart, feel up the bottom bracket for seams in the tubes -- seams would eliminate 531, though lack of seams would not confirm 531, and seams in the chainstays but not the main tubes would leave you even more confused!) But honestly, I doubt the bike is 531, mainly because it's a Sears. Sorry.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Don't Laugh Please !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by Kevin K on 1/31/2001 at 7:20:20 PM
Hi again. I should have added that this bike is a 5 speed model. It's candy apple green with bright white, black and orange graphics. The fenders appear to be aluminum, but could be a stainless steel ?( these do not look like any I've ever seen before )It has 27" Rigida chrome wheels with the coolest looking Semperit tires in good,useable condition. Kevin

   Steyr-Daimler-Puch posted by John E on 1/31/2001 at 8:44:27 PM
I know of only two Austrian framebuilders: Steyr-[Austro]Daimler-Puch, a huge industrial conglomerate which undoubtedly made your frame, and Capo, a niche specialty shop. The frame is probably plain carbon steel -- even Peugeot U0-8 frames are quite light and "ping" nicely. My 1973 Peugeot U0-8 was actually a lighter and more responsive frame than my 1971 double-butted CrMo Nishiki.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   For Sale: Three Schwinn Super Sports posted by: Jason on 1/31/2001 at 12:03:55 PM
For Sale:

Three Schwinn Super Sports, Chicago made. Two are mens (dark green and yellow), one ladies (light blue). Mens are original, ladies has replacement seat and tires. Would like to sell as a lot of three bikes, and would prefer to have these picked up in Pawtucket, RI. Price is $200 for all three.

AGE / VALUE:   CRESENT 10 SPEED posted by: Michael on 1/31/2001 at 9:45:44 AM
I just got my hands on a bicycle that is Geeman made at least all of the stickers on it or written in german. It seems to have its own ground screws for a head/tail light. The bike is orange with black and white text. The bike is in great shape i got it from a recyucling center in my arewa i rweally like the bike and am wondering is it worth anything? Or can I just add it to my collection of daily riden bikes. Any help would be appreciated.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   CRESENT 10 SPEED posted by desmo on 1/31/2001 at 11:48:57 AM
That isn't German, it's Swedish. Crescent sold quite a few bikes here in the States back in the 70s, everything from mid-range to high-end. Nice bikes by and large. The company is still in existence (building mostly ATBs of course), here's their URL: http://www.crescent.se/ it's in Swedish. I am happy to report that orange appears to still be the maker's color. I like that.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   CRESENT 10 SPEED posted by Art on 2/1/2001 at 6:15:15 AM
I am curious as to what components are common on his bike, especially the crank set. The bottom bracket housing on this bike is huge.

   Ashtabula cranks? posted by John E on 2/1/2001 at 6:41:32 AM
The only large-diameter bottom brackets I have seen were designed for Schwinn Varsinental style one-piece Ashtabula cranks. Thanks to three-piece adaptors still sold by Harris Cyclery and others, a large-diameter BB can be used with almost any crankset. I would generally associate a large-diameter BB with a lower-end or general-purpose frame.

AGE / VALUE:   Italian spoke threading posted by: ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/30/2001 at 1:49:37 PM
I was wrong to think that Stella spokes would work with Radelli nipples. They don't! I do not have any experience with Italian spokes yet. The Stella spokes are rigid chromax or (something like that) double butted, a whole box full but it is missing the nipples. First box I've seen that is labled up "with washers".
My workshop is a home for misfit cycle parts!
I will post my spoke information here when I find it out myself.

AGE / VALUE:   "A. Sutter" posted by: Bob Atwood on 1/30/2001 at 1:31:42 PM
I have a 56cm French lightweight that I picked up about two years ago that I have been using for a commuter bike. It is marked "A. Sutter" with the headbadge reading "A. Sutter, Chantellerault"
I have been thinking about repainting it and "modernizing" it a bit, but since I have most of the original pieces I am wondering if I the bike should be restored instead.
Does anyone know anything about Sutters and their value?

Raleigh Competition Questions posted by: John Gilmour on 1/30/2001 at 10:23:43 AM
I have an old Raleigh Competition road racing bicycle. I bought it in 1980 from a guy who raced bikes around Berkeley California. I wondering how old it is. Here are some details: It has center pull Weinemann brakes, a Huret rear derailleur. In the back there is a nice little brazed-on, semi-circular guide for the brake cable. There are brazed-on cable guides on the top tube.

I'd also like to replace the brakes with some new, spiffy side pulls. But the ones being made now won't fit, because the calipers don't extend down far enough. Does anyone know how to find sidepulls to fit an older bike?


   RE:Raleigh Competition Questions posted by Brian L. on 1/30/2001 at 10:52:17 AM
Cyclart (http://cyclart.com/)is manufacturing a drop bolt for Campy and SunTour (would probably work for others) to allow conversion of older frames to accept short-reach brakes, particularly when changing from 27" to 700c wheels. SunTour Cyclones are still pretty common in bike shops that specialize in salvage/vintage, and they have good reach, as do old Campy standard reach Gran Sport, Victory, Record and Super Record. Same goes for older Shimano and Dia-Compe.

   front brake may be OK posted by John E on 1/30/2001 at 12:01:15 PM
Since many of the older non-French road bikes used a shorter-reach center-pull brake in front than in back, you may be able to replace the front brake (i.e., the mission-critical one) without resorting to a drop bolt. If not, you could replace the fork with a slightly shorter one, as Sheldon Brown recommends for old French bikes. If your only concern is stopping power, keep your center-pulls and replace the pads with KoolStops.

   RE:front brake may be OK posted by ChristopherRobin on 1/30/2001 at 1:57:11 PM
Cyclart is making drop bolts? Good for them, that's great!

   RE:Raleigh Competition Questions posted by Keith on 1/31/2001 at 9:22:52 AM
I agree with all of the above. If you're going to 700c, you might want to try to snag some old Dia Compe Gran Compe sidepulls. They are nice looking, virtual Campy clones, and they are a bit longer than most normal reach. Rivendell sells the old Suntour Cyclones for $45/pr., and Bicycle Classics sells NOS Campy Triomphe and Victory calipers.

   RE:RE:Raleigh Competition Questions posted by Keith on 1/31/2001 at 9:23:58 AM
P.S. To date your Competition, go to the Retro Raleigh site and look at teh charts and old catalogs.

AGE / VALUE:   Look what just walked into my room posted by: Art on 1/29/2001 at 8:49:02 AM
The most important people to have a good working relationship with if you are teaching at a high school are the custodial staff. This was driven home to me this moring when a maintenance man showed up at my door with two relatively complete bikes. Both road bikes, that he pulled out of the trash. One is a Schwinn with a one piece crank, lugged frame, GT120 rear derailleur, leTour front derailleur. Scwinn brakes, wheels. Fork crown has a chrome cover over it. The other bike is a Raleigh, Grand Sport, Carlton sticker.GB stem. Cinelli bars. Weinmann Vanqueur brakes. Stronglight crank with a large aluminum shield. I've never seen one of those before.Shimano FE front,Tourney rear derailleur. Normany high flange hubs with Weinmann rims. One rim may be bent beyond repair, but I need a pair so I'll see what I can do. Leather saddle, Brooks b-15, dried but savable. I know we've talked about the Gran Sport, but I can't remember how it ranks. I can't tell the model of the Schwinn. Single piece signals early, yet low end to me. Any thoughts.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Look what just walked into my room posted by Oscar on 1/29/2001 at 1:00:24 PM
Now they're coming to you!

My guess on the Schwinn is a Continental. The later models used all sorts of mixtures of components. They had one-piece cranks, and the later ones had chromed forks.

I see a Grand Sport Raleigh locked up around town here and there. The owner put on moustache bars and bar enders. Cool city bike.

   Conti? Are you sure, Oscar? posted by John E on 1/30/2001 at 6:23:47 AM
I thought all 1960 to 1980-something Varsinentals had electroforged (lugless-looking) frames. The combination of a lugged frame and an Ashtabula crank does puzzle me, although I suppose Panasonic may have made such a beast for Schwinn, in which case this bike would have been a bottom-of-the-line model in the Schwinn Le Tour series.

   BEATS ME posted by ART on 1/30/2001 at 7:25:02 AM
I passed the Schwinn on to my local bike store and he agreed with you John. The lugged frame negated the Contintental id. It had Schwinn approved brakes and with the Schwinn wheels, derailleurs, and stem with the S, on it I'm pretty sure it is a Schwinn. It had no badge. It was heavy and Leon will make an inexpensive rider out of it regardless of what it is.
On closer insection the saddle on the Raleigh is a Brooks Colt. I've never seen one of these before. On the emotional roller coaster portion of this story, one of the aluminum stronglight crank arms is stripped and I am unable to pull the arm off the spindle with my crank pulling tool. Any solutions when the threads are stripped and the tool won't seat? I'd leave the crank on, it's now going anyhere. but the grease is really old and the crank barely turns.

   Dead wrong posted by Oscar on 1/30/2001 at 7:29:11 AM
Oh, it's a lugged frame. Certainly not a Continental, only a guy who reads faster than his brain comprehends would say so.

Didn't we recently see some pictures of a World Traveler with a Japanese frame and ashtabula crank? Maybe it's something like that.

   Stripped crank arm posted by Oscar on 1/30/2001 at 7:32:45 AM
I saw a tool sold by The Third Hand that can remove a stripped crank arm. It's like a pry bar that allows you to use leverage to pop the thing off.

   stripped crank removal posted by John E on 1/30/2001 at 9:50:39 AM
Since you will not want to reinstall that crank, why not just cut a notch into the shoulder, using a Dremmel tool? Set the crank pointing straight ahead, cut deeply into the top surface directly above the spindle, and then whack downward on the end of the crank with a mallet. (This simulates a cottered steel crank failure I once experienced while crossing one of the busiest intersections (Wilshire & Westwood, a few blocks north of C. Harding's Cyclery) in west Los Angeles.)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Look what just walked into my room posted by Keith on 1/30/2001 at 9:59:35 AM
1. The Raleigh Gran Sport was above the Super Course but below the Competition. The 1974 Catalog indicates Reynolds 531 (single) butted main frame, and 531 forks and stays, Stronglight alloy cranks, and Simplex derailleurs. In sum, a good mid-range model with European specs that, by the end of the 70s bike boom, was probably overshadowed in the U.S. market by Japanese bikes that cost less and worked better. 2. The Schwinn sounds like one listed below -- a Japanese made "World" model with lugs but ashtebula cranks. Sounds pretty low-end. Maybe Sheldon Brown has something on what to do when the crank arm threads are stripped. Ahhh -- French aluminum!

   EMOTIONAL RESCUE posted by Art on 1/30/2001 at 6:12:31 PM
My son and I took the Gran Sport frame with the attached crank to Leon the Bike Repairman and he laughed muttering about French aluminum and weird thread sizes. His normal crank pullers didn't work. There were no threads left inside the crank arm. Then he got out his Pickle wrench, a two pronged steel wedge and after removing the chain rings pushed it down on the axle between the back of the spider and bottom bracket housing. He hammered away, but the crank arm didn't budge. He wiped perspiration off of his brow. I had never seen him sweat before. Then he got out the mother of all chain pullers. A contraption with two clamp ends, a bolt housing, and a huge bolt. He fiddled with the gizmo, and tightened the bolt. Nothing happened. He reclamped the gizmo, said a brief prayer, wrenched down on the bolt and the crank arm slid into my outstretched hands. How much do I owe you? I asked. Nothing, he said. As we walked out of the shop, my son looked up at me and exclaimed, Leon the Bike Repairman is a God. Yes he is son, I said, yes he is.

   RE: Bike Gods posted by Eric Amlie on 1/31/2001 at 7:54:16 AM
Oh how I wish we had someone like Leon in my area. Most of the people in the bike stores here think they are God and will barely deign to talk to ordinary mortals such as myself (unless I can fool them into thinking I am there to buy a new Litespeed). Help with something? Be prepared to dig deep!

   RE:RE: Bike Gods posted by Art on 1/31/2001 at 9:27:56 AM
I do feel fortunate, Eric. One of the reasons I buy everything I need, (parts, tires, even new bikes) from Leon the Bike Repairman is because I get so much more than just product. In a time when Costco sells full suspension GT's, and most new bike stores have no awareness of anything mechanical that predates 1990, shops like Try Me Bikes in Phoenix stand out as incredible exceptions. Most shops wouldn't have wasted their time with me. I pay Leon back by dragging in anything I find that I think he can use. He repairs bikes for kids. He donates bikes to organizations for whom bikes are transportation. This is what a bike shop should be. Unfortunately, they're a dieing breed.

AGE / VALUE:   PANASONIC 7000 posted by: Kevin K on 1/28/2001 at 7:14:14 AM
Hi. Some time ago I picked up a Panasonic bike brochure. In it is a model" Professional 7000 ". Nice looking bike with Dura-Ace equiptment. I've only ever seen one Panasonic bike in my life, it was a lowend model. This bike however looks like it would be quality piece. Where wre Panasonic bikes sold, and has anyone ever owned one ? If so, would you please tell me about the bike! Thank you, Kevin

   Matsushita posted by John E on 1/28/2001 at 6:57:11 PM
Please check the archives -- there was a Panasonic discussion a few months ago. Panasonic, Panaracer, Technics, National, etc. are brand names used by the huge Japanese conglomerate, Matsushita. A relatively small (compared to Nishiki, Fuji, etc.) number of Panasonic-branded cycles were imported into the U.S. during the 1970s. Our Schwinn historians need to verify this, but I believe many of the lugged-framed Japanese-made Schwinn road bikes of that era were Panasonics. Like Nishiki's, Panasonic's models covered a wide range of prices and qualities. The higher-end specimens, particularly toward 1980, were quite good. Sheldonbrown.com probably has additional data.

   VVVintage: Thank you for accepting "Matsushita" posted by John E on 1/28/2001 at 6:59:06 PM
By the way, "Matsushita" does not make it past Schwinn.com's profanity filter.

   Schwinn LeTour = Panasonic posted by John E on 1/29/2001 at 6:31:29 AM
According to Sheldon, Panasonic did make the Schwinn LeTour frame.

   RE:VVVintage: Thank you for accepting posted by ChristopherRobin on 1/29/2001 at 9:33:55 AM
Oh, thats funny!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   PANASONIC 7000 posted by Keith on 1/29/2001 at 10:56:53 AM
In the back of my garage attic, I have a Panasonic frame, mid-80s, made with Tange tubing. I think it's a DX-3000. It has a two-tone fade paint job, which helps date it. Shimano droputs, and when I got it it still had a 600 rear derailleur on it. Workmanship is very good -- even brazing with no gaps or spillover, and mitering is even and clean as viewed from inside the bottom bracket shell. Typical of Japanese bikes -- a hefty cut above most big name European bikes in terms of workmanship, but ranked below them in terms of collector interest, from what I can tell, as they lack "mystique" to some vintage enthusiasts. A shame, but this means we can all still pick these frames/bikes up for next to nothing and they ride very well.

   Euro-workmanship posted by John E on 1/29/2001 at 12:43:41 PM
I agree with your comments regarding 1980s Japanese frame design, fit and finish. (Unfortunately, my 1971 Nishiki predated that era and was mediocre, despite its double-butted CrMo tubing.) European frame workmanship of the early 1980s was highly variable -- although my Peugeot has a brazing gap on one of the rear dropouts and visible seams on the backs of the fork blades, my Bianchi's fit and finish are comparable to those of a high-grade Japanese frame.

AGE / VALUE:   CCM Roamer Simpsons posted by: Joe on 1/27/2001 at 9:50:44 PM
I am looking for information about this bike. It has 28x1.5" tires, the tires on it are standard canadian, coaster brake, rear drop-outs, rear support bars riveted at the drop-out, bolted to seat clamp which is part of the frame, not a separate piece. I have been told this is canadian. Serial number is on the seat clamp part of frame, 2D8205. It is a single bar frame. There are numbers on the rear hub, 081798. The rear hub also has 'Made in Canada patented 1937' on it. Words on the crank arm are 'Utility British Made'. No writing on the brake arm. I believe everything on this bike is original except for the seat. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   CCM Roamer Simpsons posted by Warren on 1/29/2001 at 7:19:49 AM
If it is a CCM it should have letters forged into the chainring...if it isn't it is likely that the crank has been changed. This is very possible since the the "Utility British Made" is inscribed and I haven't seen one like that before. CCM made a lot of single speed roadsters: the 1937 hub probably has CCM etched on it as well. It is a very good coaster hub. It may have been distributed by The Robert Simpson Company who were absorbed by the Hudsons Bay Co. a decade or so ago. It should be a nice utitliarian bike for riding...not too valuable unless the paint is in extraordinary condition, has the fenders, chainguard, accessories etc. The rims will accept 700X38c tires in a pinch although some true 28X1 1/2 tires are available.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   CCM Roamer Simpsons posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/29/2001 at 4:26:16 PM
C.C.M means "Canada Cycle and Motor". C.C.M. had a English style roadster of their own. I have maroon rims and the hub you mention. It is indeed a good hub. The fenders or mudguards are the eavestrough style. I learned the hard way that English 28 X 1 1/2 tires will not fit the Canadian 28 X 1 1/2 rims. There were two difrent tires in the shop in Canada one was English and the other Canadian. You can drive to the car factory in Windsor, Canada and see a huge bike rack outside the factory. I do not believe that these tires interchange. It is neat that you have one of these bicycles.

AGE / VALUE:   Juy Simplex Exploded diagrams posted by: ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/25/2001 at 4:57:09 PM
I have exploded diagrams and parts lists to some of the Juy Simplex stuff. The 51 and others. If you are tinkering around with old Simplex e-mail me and I'll get you a packet of info.

AGE / VALUE:   Another find posted by: ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/25/2001 at 4:13:56 PM
I forgot to mention that it is a nicely lugged frame. lightweight too. It dawned on me that there is something more stupid than painting a bicycle. It is throwing one away that is origonal!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Another find posted by Kevin K on 1/26/2001 at 4:40:17 AM
NICE FIND !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Another find posted by MC on 1/28/2001 at 6:52:23 AM
I would like to trade for it. Please refer to my posting below.

AGE / VALUE:   Another Rescue posted by: ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/25/2001 at 3:47:19 PM
I see two wheels sticking out by the pile at the kerb. First I check the rear view mirror(This is extremly important!) then I hit the brakes(never the other way around) and pull into the driveway. I jump out and grab this piece of refuse. Turns out it is something I have never heard of and so I ask your guiding spirts to tell me what I stumbled upon. This is a mens, tall frame,GIUBILATO with the word CICLI on the oval badge. Campy cranks and brakes with Shimano SR 105 brake levers, Columbus tubing. alloy stem that is unmarked, Campy pedals, saddle is an ISCA SELLE. Fiamme Explorer rims. I didn't look at the derailur yet.(sorry) The backstays are chrome the fork is chrome and it is a fine bike Im sure but Im too stupid to know what I have found for free! But then again by the time I know everything I'll be as old as Methuselah. Please advise me what I found.

I have never heard of this brand but Italian bikes are a weak spot. Im out chasing rod brake bikes.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Another Rescue posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/27/2001 at 12:20:09 PM
This bike was only in my stable for a couple of hours before it got into an argument with my 1954 R.R.A.! I am open to trades with this cycle. What rod brake roadsters do you have that you would trade me for this fine Italian road machine? It has all Campy with exception of the brakes. Derailur, headset, hubs, cranks,shifters, seat post all Campy.
E-mail me. Nows your chance to own this fine machine!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Another Rescue posted by MC on 1/28/2001 at 6:50:24 AM
I will gladly trade for your Italian Cicli. The only British bike I own is an old black Raleigh LTD-SC roadster--no rod brake, but old nonetheless and great condition. Please reply if we can swap out.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Another Rescue posted by Keith on 1/30/2001 at 5:47:00 AM
Christopher -- I've followed and enjoyed your postings and discoveries for a few years. Now I want a map of your neighborhood!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Another Rescue posted by Fred on 1/31/2001 at 3:06:15 PM
I've got a 1961 men's 3 speed Armstrong bike in black if you're interested. Overall condition is good to very good. It's not a rod bicycle, but appears to be almost all original. Interested??????????

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   PARAMOUNT posted by: C J on 1/24/2001 at 7:59:05 PM
I have pre-war(?) Paramount (tourist-3spd). Yeah, real pinstripes. Does anyone have much knowledge on these? Also have custom frame Paramount (80s?) and R/W/B TT(Jap) of late 80s. Haven't ridden or looked at for a couple of years. Anyone have anything like the pre-war? Thanks, CJ

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   PARAMOUNT posted by Art on 1/25/2001 at 6:13:41 AM
The Waterford site at www.waterford.com/fframe.htm has a brief history of Paramount. If I'm reading them correctly the Tourist is a 50's creation. I got one recently, a '54, and have been been rebuilding it and am almost finished. The bike was essentially sold as a custom order frame and local bike shops would build it up to customers specs. I have a spec sheet that lists Scwinn's recommendations for saddle (mattress or b-17}, Sturmey-Archer 3 speed or Campy, and Schwinn Breeze or Puff(?) tires. Mine had Simplex Tour de France rear Derailleur on a three speed cog on Bayliss-Wylie high flange hubs and Dunlop (English) rims. I'm interested in what components are on yours. Post here or feel free to e-mail me at home. Does your bike have chrome fenders? Art

AGE / VALUE:   Seat post size? posted by: Walter on 1/24/2001 at 5:54:39 PM
Need a seatpost for my mid-70's Schwinn Japaneses LeTour. What size?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Seat post size? posted by Wings on 1/24/2001 at 11:14:45 PM
My LeTour uses a 26.6 mm seat post.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Seat post size? posted by Walter on 1/25/2001 at 5:31:09 PM

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Seat post size? posted by mia on 1/26/2001 at 10:10:23 PM
I have aquired a "mini stingray" and I'm uncertain how to
identify it. I don't believe it is older that 20 years
old. I would like some info on how to identify it and
some helpfull research hints.
Thanks Mia

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Seat post size? posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/27/2001 at 12:33:31 PM
Mia, go to the local bookstore and get the book "Collecting Sting Ray bicycles"

It's in the cycling section. This book will help and it has cool pictures.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Seat post size? posted by WIngs on 1/28/2001 at 12:02:24 AM
Please give the serial number. It may be on the head tube. Can you read what the rims say -- that would help. 16 inch tires? Color? If you describe it perhaps I could identify it. I have a 16 inch Sting Ray in red and black. You could also email me at: wings1123@aol.com.
Books are good but may be hard to find.
"Schwinn Sting-Ray" by Liz Fried, Motorbooks International, ISBN 0-933201-88-5. This is an excellent book with color pictures. It shows pictures of all sizes including 16 inch wheels and also the "Lil Tiger."
"Collectable Schwinn Sting Ray Bicycles 1963.5 - 1979" by T.A. Gordon and James Hurd. This book has few pictures and they are black and white. It is more techinical as to the parts each Sting Ray would have.
Good Luck

AGE / VALUE:   F-7 tyres posted by: sam on 1/24/2001 at 5:41:31 PM
Warren,any change you'll come across any F-7 tyres in that old shop in Canada.They are 2"x26" but must fit odd F-7 size rim---sam

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   F-7 tyres posted by Warren on 1/25/2001 at 8:22:09 AM
You stumped me...F-7? Is this the 26 x 1 1/4 or 597 mm tire? If so, they can be found as old stock in quite a few older bike shops. Even Canadian Tire (major auto/home chain) was carrying gumwalls up to a couple of years ago.
Hope this helps.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   F-7 tyres posted by Warren on 1/25/2001 at 8:45:32 AM
I just checked Sheldons tire sizing page. S-7 is the Schwinn 26 x 1 3/4 or 571 mm dead. If this is it than it's unlikely to find that size north of the 49th parallel. Cruisers, heavyweights and fat tire bikes never sold well here.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   F-7 tyres posted by ChristopherRobin on 1/25/2001 at 9:50:24 AM
Schwinn came out with a bike a few years ago that used this size. Some Schwinn shops may have one or two in stock. Call around and ask. I had a old Royal Enfield with Westwood rims and it took this size.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   F-7 tyres posted by Wings on 1/25/2001 at 8:26:22 PM
The S7 rim tire is still available. I have found some in the last year. Memory Lane Classics had a bunch last year and I think they would still have some. Fax 419-832-1342. They are in Grand Rapids, Ohio. Phone 419-832-3040

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   F-7 tyres posted by sam on 1/27/2001 at 8:10:53 AM
You read it right the first time F-7 . NOT S-7 . F-7 are for old british bikes from WW-2.The heavy duty chain and sprocket you found might have been for them.---sam