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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

AGE / VALUE:   Paramount Shoes posted by: Doug on 6/4/2001 at 5:33:55 PM
Just bought a cheap pair of shoes on e-bay for $12. Supposedly NOS italian made in the late 80's.


Anyone have any experience with these? The description says that they won't work with clipless pedals but work well with old Campy N. Record. Are these of the standard clip and strap variety, or are they something else?
Thanks for your help!!

   Paramount Shoes posted by John E on 6/5/2001 at 12:04:09 PM
Yes, these are designed for use with standard toeclips. You can either strap your feet securely (and have to reach down while stopping to let a foot out), or leave your straps just loose enough to allow you to lift the cleat over the back edge of your pedal, as I have always done. Although I still use "strap-in" pedals on all of my bikes, the modern "clipless" (I prefer to say, "snap-in") systems are safer than tightly-strapped, cleated shoes.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Paramount Shoes posted by Doug on 6/5/2001 at 9:50:12 PM
Just emailed the seller and he says these will also accept Look cleats, but not SPD. Should I look for newer Look pedals or for some of the same vintage as the shoes (late 80's)? Have they changed?
Thanks for your reply!!
Doug Kilen

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Conditioning Brooks Pro posted by: brent on 6/4/2001 at 2:32:23 PM
I found an older (small rivets) Brooks Professional saddle
the other week at a thrift store. The leather never got
broken in by my estimation compared to my other used B-15s
and -17s I have. Between that and some light crazing of the
leather, any ideas on how to get this one ridable? I've
been rubbing in baseball glove oil every couple of days, but
I haven't really noticed much improvement.

   ride it; use ProofHide posted by John E on 6/4/2001 at 2:54:20 PM
I am trying to think back 28 years on how I broke in my new Brooks Pro. I have soaped it periodically with Brooks ProofHide, but I think I broke it in simply by riding on it. The Pro does have somewhat thicker leather than the B17, but 25 years from now, you'll be glad it does.

   Brooks Pro posted by John E on 6/4/2001 at 2:55:48 PM
P.S. Congratulations on a great find! The Brooks Pro is still my all-time favourite saddle.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Conditioning Brooks Pro posted by Mike Stone on 6/4/2001 at 6:22:00 PM
Let me take this opportunity to advise everyone, "please do not apply simple oils to old saddles". It does almost no good and, in fact, makes it more difficult to rejuvinate the leather correctly because the oils you are applying hinder the correct moisturizers and balms.

Old dried out leather will never rejuvinate by simply applying oil. It needs moisture, oil, and just a bit of fat.

Spray the saddle with water or lay a damp cloth on it, or dip it in water. "Oh My God!!", you say. Well, it is skin. It has been wet before and it needs some moisture again, just like your own skin. It should take on a certain silky softness to the touch. Ahhhhh, the leather will say to you.

Next, mix up 1/2 lard and 1/2 neatsfoot oil in a double boiler. You can get a cake of pure lard at the grocery store. Use pork lard, not vegetable shortening, and not beef tallow. You can get pure neatsfoot oil at Fleet & Farm in their farm department by the horse riding tac. You might be able to get it at a shoe store, but I doubt it. If it has silicon in it, don't use it. Real neatsfoot oil is made from boiled horses hooves. I use the synthetic facsimile which seems to work well.

After the lard melts and the oils combine, the two fats will become one. It will set up this way when cool.

Let the leather dry to the point that it is just a little damp - mostly dryish, but still damp kinda like a fresh orange rind. Then, apply the lard, neatsfoot oil to the saddle. You can either re-melt this balm, or you can apply it like salve to the saddle. You will then either have to put the saddle outside to melt the balm into the saddle, or you can use a hair dryer.

Contact me if you have any questions.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Conditioning Brooks Pro posted by log on 6/5/2001 at 8:11:55 PM
dad sid just put about 300 miles on it and it will be broken in perfect

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Conditioning Brooks Pro posted by log on 6/5/2001 at 8:11:57 PM
dad sid just put about 300 miles on it and it will be broken in perfect

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Conditioning Brooks Pro posted by Keith on 6/6/2001 at 11:37:26 AM
You guys will really think I'm nuts, but IMO Brooks are comfortable right out of the box. I've bought 3 in the past 3 years, and went on long rides right after installing them. No soreness (maybe the nerves in my butt are dead or something). I still use my first B-17, which is 28 years old at this point and has at least 20,000 miles on it. I used to use a pinch of neats foot once a year (wet my hand with it, rub the top of the saddle) but I've switched to proofide.

FOR SALE:   Schwinn Super Sports posted by: Jason on 6/3/2001 at 9:10:44 PM
Three vintage Schwinn Super Sports for sale as a lot. Two mens (one yellow, one dark green) and one ladies (light blue). Price is $100 for all three bikes (you get all three bikes for a single $100 bill). Must be picked up in Rhode Island (I'm not interested in shipping these).

   Schwinn Super Sports posted by John E on 6/4/2001 at 6:54:05 AM
Please post serial numbers or production years and frame sizes.

   RE:Schwinn Super Sports posted by Jason on 6/6/2001 at 10:49:00 AM
Dark Green, mens, 1971, 22" c-t.
Yellow, mens, 1972, 22" c-t.
Light Blue, ladies, 1973, 21" c-t.

   RE:RE:Schwinn Super Sports posted by Jason on 6/15/2001 at 5:13:41 AM
These bikes are sold. Thanks for your interest.


VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Gitane Tour de France posted by: Oscar on 6/3/2001 at 8:36:30 PM
I have my Gitane stripped down to the big pieces, and I'm detailing the paint. I noticed BCM lightly stamped on the lower headlug. I'm curious as to what this stands for. Any ideas?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Gitane Tour de France posted by Bob on 6/4/2001 at 9:13:27 AM
BCM stands for Bocama the maker of the lugs. See


VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Lady's Rene Herse posted by: Oscar on 6/3/2001 at 8:28:43 PM
Do you remember that beautiful lady's Rene Herse on ebay in April. Did you get a keep a copy of the pictures on that auction? If so, please send them to me. I'd like a second look at the handle bars.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Noisey brakes (Corrected!!) posted by: Robert on 6/2/2001 at 12:50:02 PM
Thanks to all who posted below on that chattering squack my brakes were making. It was that the pivot bolts were loose.
These are dual pivot sidepull that were almost a full turn loose on each of the pivot bolts. Now they are just good quiet stoppers! Thanks

AGE / VALUE:   Hercules - Raleigh - AMF posted by: Gralyn on 5/31/2001 at 6:41:03 PM
I posted back on May 12 - I had bought an old Hercules bike from an old man - he said the bike dated back to the 20's. I did as much research as I could - I also removed some of the layers of paint. Under a couple layers of paint - I found "AMF". The research tells me that Raleigh bought Hercules back in 1960...and that Raleigh-Hercules bikes were distributed by AMF. So I would suspect that my bike dates back to the 60's. I was dissapointed about that. But I still like the bike. I would like to restore it close to how it was when it was new - but I haven't determined exactly what it would have looked like new. I still hope to come across an old bike from the 20's or 30's - so I will keep looking. If anyone knows any information or where to find information on how to determine what a raleigh-Hercules-AMF bike would have been like - let me know.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hercules - Raleigh - AMF posted by Ed on 5/31/2001 at 8:01:14 PM
There are pictures of 1960s and70s vintage Hercules on this sight,readers webb pages,Retrocycles,or I can send pictures of my 1963 and 1969if you would like to have them.If your Hercules has a Sturmy Archer hub the year of manufacture should be embossed on it. Good Luck.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hercules - Raleigh - AMF posted by sam on 6/1/2001 at 9:42:56 AM
Is the head badge brass or alum.?Does your bike have the 3-speed S/A hub or the hercules hub or the 5-speed derailer?Does the chain ring say hercules?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hercules - Raleigh - AMF posted by Gralyn on 6/1/2001 at 5:28:09 PM
Unfortunately, the hub had been changed out - it is now some German manufactured hub with coaster brake. But the old man told me that before that - it was fixed gear. I believe the bike is a hybrid of many different brands.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hercules - Raleigh - AMF posted by Gralyn on 6/1/2001 at 5:31:49 PM
The chain ring doesn't say Hercules, but it looks identical to one from the 30's. I am not sure about the badge - it is pretty thin, though. But with having the AMF...I don't think AMF distributed Hercules bicycles before Raleigh bought them out...but I'm not sure

AGE / VALUE:   GITANE posted by: Kevin on 5/31/2001 at 9:08:36 AM
Hi. I picked up a Gitane"Gran Sport De Luxe" today. Usual, though up a notch from the norm pieces on it. Hooded Mafac brakes, alloy Simplex vs plastic. Cottered Durax crankset, the first one I've ever seen. Bike feels lighter than most of this nature I find. The bike also has sewups on in. I doubt these were factory as they are Mavic rims with Campagnolo low flange hubs. The hubs are chromed steel centers with alloy hub pieces on the ends. The quick releases have the word" VICENZA" on them. Questions: Please tell me a little about the bike, in particular the wheels and skewers. I aired up the tires, which are newer SCCR 5000's. They held air, and look pretty nice, so off I went.The bike rode very smoothly considering how crusty this thing looks. Any info would be great. Thank you, Kevin

   GITANE posted by John E on 5/31/2001 at 10:26:19 AM
Nice find, Kevin! All I gave them up about 15 years ago, I admit that sewups are a blast. Is there the remnant of a (French-language, of course!) Reynolds 531 sticker (always the first thing to go!) anywhere on the seat tube or downtube? Those are very old hubs. The bike may be Gitane's (probably superior) equivalent to the Peugeot PA-10E (carbon steel frame, steel crankset, sewups) or PR-10 (Reynolds main triangle). I am wild-guessing early 1960s.

   today's safety advice posted by John E on 5/31/2001 at 10:27:38 AM
> They held air, and look pretty nice, so off I went

Please make sure the glue is in good shape!

   RE:AGE / VALUE: GITANE posted by Bob on 5/31/2001 at 11:07:44 AM
Here is my two-cents worth.

The Campy steel-alloy hubs and the cottered cranks suggest late 50's or early 60's to me.

The Simplex Delrin deraileurs were common from about 1963 so if the deraileurs are Simplex they are either Pre-63 Juy -- which would help date the bike -- or post-60s which would suggest a mismatch with the hubs and cranks.

The rear dropouts can also be helpful in dating this bike. Are they Simplex? If so, how does the deraileur attach?

What type is the front deraileur?

The absence of a tubing sticker on the frame might not indicate that the frame is not high quality. The presence of Campy hubs and sew-up rims suggests a higher-end machine -- if they are original.

By the way, if the frame size is 56cm or larger and you are interested in selling let me know -- I like old French bikes.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   GITANE posted by Kevin on 5/31/2001 at 11:30:43 AM
Hi Guys. The frame sticker, or what's left of it, is red/black oval in shape. The only letters I can makeout on the top line are CU, second line OM. The dropouts are stamped steel. The decals are interesting. The ones on the main frame are sort of foil backed(cheap looking)while the ones on the fork are a nice water transfere type. Bob, the size of the bike is really small. The lugs on the headtube touch each other. I'm unsure what to do with it. It's not really what I collect. John's comment" Nice find" and Bob's remarks tell me I should clean it up and leave it alone vs part it out. I doubt it's a high end bike, but why ruin it at this point. Thanks for your input. Kevin

   GITANE posted by John E on 5/31/2001 at 2:09:12 PM
> The decals are interesting. The ones on the main frame are sort of foil backed(cheap looking)

Those are typical Gitane decals. I have seen them on frames of various quality levels. Don't part it out until you are sure about what you have. If it really is late 1950s or very early 1960s, as Bob and I both suspect, it MAY be mildly collectible if kept complete. Does sheldonbrown.com or classicrendezvous.com have any relevant pictures or specifications?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   GITANE posted by Eric Amlie on 5/31/2001 at 2:42:28 PM
The decals sound just about the same as those on my circa 1970 Tour de France. I don't think the red & black one is a tubing decal. If I remember right from my bike it says "cutom frame" or something like that. I will check it when I get home tonight. I suspect this bike is at or near the bottom of the Gitane line. I think the hierarchy was something like (bottom to top) Gran Sport, Interclub, Professional Tour de France, and Professional Super Corsa. These were the "normal" road bikes. There were other models of course in the upright tourist style and road touring catagories. If this is an earlier bike than none of this may apply.

   GITANE posted by Eric Amlie on 5/31/2001 at 2:45:48 PM
Er, that would be "Custom Frame", sorry.

   RE:GITANE posted by Clyde on 5/31/2001 at 3:30:57 PM
I still have the '73 Gitane brochure when I purchased my TDF. The Gran Sport specs show "Frame - Seamless light-weight Steel" and "Crankset - Durax 36/52" or optional 40/52. At 28 lbs. the GS spec'ed out quite heavier than the TDF at 21.5 lbs. My original foil decals and paint are long gone.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: GITANE posted by Bob on 5/31/2001 at 4:10:13 PM
Two more cents...

My conjectures about the age are based on my own experiences with a Sutter. It was in the early 1960s that road bikes commonly made the transition from cottered to cotterless cranks. So in the early 60s it is possible to find a good quality road bike with cottered cranks. If it was French, and of highest quality, you would probably see more Campy stuff than just the hubs.

My Sutter also has the "foil" style decals on the frame tubes and came with sewup Nisi rims. My bike was probably made between 1962 and 1964. It came with the Simplex Delrin deraileurs front and rear. If this Gitane has one of the earlier Juy series Simplex deraileurs then it is probably pre-63.

If your Gitane dates from the late 50s/early 60s it would have been imported before the 70s bike boom, and that suggests that it was a "serious" bike in its time. But serious does not mean collectable -- just that is was (and probably still is) a good bike.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   GITANE posted by Mark on 6/3/2001 at 3:35:11 PM
Mel Pinto started importing Gitanes in the early sixties and I bought two from him out of his dirt floor gagage in Northern Va. All the bikes he had coming in at that time had decals and not foil stickers. The foil stickers on the Gitane started appearing I believe in the late sixties or early seventies. With the assortment of parts that you have my guess would be the bike has had many replacement parts put on it and probably some of those were not new.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   GITANE posted by bonnie on 6/28/2001 at 10:39:22 PM
Kevin: re your Gitane Gran Sport DeLuxe: I have one too, a mixte, thrift-store find. Cottered Durax 36/52 crankset, Mavic rim with "burgundy" hub and Atom quick release, Mafac centerpull brakes, same metal decals, steel rat-trap pedals. Mine is a color that became popular in the early 60s, I remember it was called "aquamarine blue" metallic. Back end of mine is all Japanese, clearly not OEM! Would love to know what the original rear gear set was, and what the original fenders looked like on these bikes, what the original handlebars were (mine has upright french handlebars and stem shifters but I don't know if it is original) There is a serial number on the left rear fork, maybe somebody knows how to date them from this number.
... My bike is a tank, heavy but incredibly reliable, the lugging is lovely to look at and the price was right at $20.

AGE / VALUE:   TRANSFERS . MALVERN STAR / BSA posted by: david on 5/31/2001 at 3:56:57 AM
I am also looking for transfer set for a 1937 BSA malvern star built by Bruce Small I HAVE PICS OF THE MALVERN STAR TRANSFER but not a clear pic of the other ones .

AGE / VALUE:   hudson posted by: DAVID on 5/31/2001 at 3:48:32 AM

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   hudson posted by Ed on 5/31/2001 at 5:42:38 AM
New Hudson mentioned on cycle de oro under English and Irish.No information offered though,they may be a good place to start looking. Good Luck

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   hudson posted by log on 6/7/2001 at 9:24:45 PM
The 1940 (30's too)Raliegh Sports Model said that on the down tube under the air pump. (Dad has one)

AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn PREMIS posted by: Fred on 5/30/2001 at 12:57:24 PM
Does anyone know anything about the Schwinn PREMIS? The serial number is "D897907". I won't list all the components and their origin unless someone is interested. Some of the components appear to have been powder coated white. they are: the derailers, shifters crank spider, and the headset.
The bike is in extemely good condition, almost factory. I just aquired it and haven't ridden it much but It really made a better rider out of me It's so stable. Oh, I almost forgot to add that the tubing is triple butted Columbus. Is this bike important or just another pretty good bike?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn PREMIS posted by Walter on 5/31/2001 at 3:46:22 PM
I'm afraid I can't tell you much specific about your particular bike. Your description is the "classic" mid to later 1980s roadbike. I believe it was Shimano that powdercoated their derailleurs. That and various shades of bright pink are vivid memories I have of some of the mounts ridden by friends in a college club.

Triple-butted Columbus is definitely the good stuff. I remember Schwinn making a line of roadbikes and "Premis" does strike a, pretty vague but definite, memory chord. Definitely sounds like a keeper especially the way you describe its ride.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn PREMIS posted by Fred on 5/31/2001 at 8:01:01 PM
I forgot to add that the calipers are also White.

MISC:   22"x 1 3/8" posted by: Schwinnderella on 5/29/2001 at 7:54:42 PM
Anybody know where I can get tires size 22" x 1 3/8 ? Thanks in advance!

   @ Sheldonbrown.com (Harris Cyclery) posted by John E on 6/1/2001 at 10:52:04 AM
490 mm / 550A / 22 x 1 3/8" tires
French juvenile and folding bikes.
Size Traditional
Size Brand Model Price
37-490 550 A / 22 x 1 3/8" Kenda Black Wall $24.95 Utility tire
22 x 1 3/8 Schrader tubes, $4.95

Contact us for purchasing information.

MISC:   What's good, what ain't? posted by: Cal on 5/29/2001 at 5:26:51 AM
I collect fat tire bicycles but am always running into lightweights in my travels. I know some of these bicycles are valuable to someone, but which ones should I bring home and which ones should I leave? If I see a Motobecane or a Puch should I just grab them? Or are some models of those bicycles really low end and not worth it?

Also on derailleirs. Is there a summary of quality for Suntour and Shimano, or are those makes always low end? (I do know enough to grab the Campy stuff when I find it).

   What's good, what ain't? posted by John E on 5/29/2001 at 7:26:20 AM
Attractively-priced older road bicycles are widely available at yard sales, and the owners and random customers cannot always distinguish between silver-soldered Reynolds 531 or Columbus classics (I got mine for $20, because of its dull repaint job) and the ubiquitous mass-produced 1970s bike-boom "ten speeds." For bikes built from the mid 1960s onward, look for cotterless aluminum cranks, integral derailleur mounts, and Reynold 531, Vitus, or Columbus stickers. Half-chrome stays are another hallmark of many older, high-quality road frames. If you see something with a suicide shifter, it may be a fairly rare, and therefore collectible, 1950s machine.

I grab every low-priced French or Austrian machine I can find, primarily to maintain my supply of obsolete French- and Swiss-threaded components, particularly BB cups and headsets. A 1973 Peugeot U0-8 or Steyr Clubman will never be a collectible. I avoid post-1966 Varsinentals, Huffy/Murray 10-speeds, and most early 1970s Japanese bikes.

For reference, Frank Berto's "The Dancing Chain" is very good, despite a few documented errors here and there. Russ Fitzgerald's PX-10 website, which you can cross-link via Cycles de Oro's outstanding classicrendezvous.com website, can help you distinguish between the better Peugeots and the basic carbon steel U0-8s and A0-8s, which shared almost the same graphics. Other excellent reference sites include sheldonbrown.com.

   RE:MISC: What's good, what ain't? posted by Bob on 5/29/2001 at 9:59:58 AM
You must have lots of room!

I look for components as an indication of the bike's quality. Campagnolo components are generally a good sign -- particularly "Record" level. Some Simplex and Huret stuff can also indicate quality. With Shimano, Dura Ace is best with "600" stuff being the next step down. With Suntour, I generally stick with Superbe, and that, pre-1990s.

Often frame tubing stickers are absent. Look for campy dropouts or Simplex dropouts (on French bikes). Several types of lugs can also indicate a good frame. Fancy does not always equal high quality and plain does not always equal low quality.

Tubular rims/tires are generally a good sign although generally the tires have to be replaced in "yard sale" bikes and that can get pretty pricey.

Even bikes with good frames and components are not all collectable. Here you need to look for a bit more -- and condition should be original and good to excellent.

   RE:MISC:   What's good, what ain't? posted by Ray on 5/29/2001 at 11:58:45 AM
The responses so far have been great. You as a Balloon bike collector must know by now that there is no magic with learning what is and is not valuable in road bikes. I am a cross over collector and I am learning the ropes on lightweight bikes but just like balloon, Sting Ray, Pre War and Antiques each have their own area of rarity and you cannot use any one rule to figure out value. You will have to read, write, discuss and go to swaps to learn like you did with Balloon bikes. Even then the market is dynamic and changes frequently so what is rare today may be common tomorrow.

   RE:MISC:   What's good, what ain't? posted by Walter on 5/29/2001 at 6:08:29 PM
Interesting question.

Based on my own observations and a few admitted biases I think the Euro bikes are far easier to resell which I get the impression is what you're looking to do. John E's description of the Columbus decal is on target and always a nice thing to see on a bike someone is trying to get 25$ for at a garage sale. Conversely early Treks which more than hold their own quality wise as compared to Euro bikes don't seem to have the collectability. At least not yet. There are alot of deals out there as the very fine bikes of the 70s and 80s are now considered "obsolete" and are often unwanted even at bike shops.

The best thing to do is study Ebay. Seems frivolous but tons of older bikes move on that site every week and market forces are given full reign.

   RE:RE:MISC:   What's good, what ain't? posted by Cal on 5/30/2001 at 5:10:25 AM
I appreciate the answers, and yes, it looks like I'm going to have to start learning more about lightwieghts. They still all look pretty much the same to me: diamond frames and racing handlebars...

Is there a chart which describes the levels of Suntour and Shimano components?

   I like it, I like it! posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/30/2001 at 8:20:19 AM
Something that really appeals to you,fits like a glove, something that calls out to be ridden, something you always want to be out on, winding your way about the neighborhood. Something fast and elegant perhaps? Something with new condition bearing races, perfectly adjusted.
It is great to find a bargain and if it is collectable or rare thats great but I like finding something I can really enjoy despite value.

   I like it, I like it! posted by John E on 5/30/2001 at 10:20:33 AM
> but I like finding something I can really enjoy despite value

YES! That's the attitude that separates the true lovers of cycling from everyone else.

   RE:MISC: What's good, what ain't? posted by Bob on 5/30/2001 at 12:20:51 PM
>Is there a chart which describes the levels of Suntour and >Shimano components?

The site below has Berto's article on Suntour which gives the information but no chart.


There is a lot of useful information at:


And Sheldon Brown's wild guesses at


   Dancing Chain posted by John E on 5/30/2001 at 5:48:33 PM
If you really get serious about collecting lightweights and geared bicycles, you may want to invest in Berto's tome, "The Dancing Chain." It is a great read (if you're a gearhead) and has some very comprehensive and useful tables on Campy, SunTour, and Shimano in the appendices.

MISC:   Sears 3sp. with coaster brake posted by: Jon on 5/28/2001 at 9:13:41 PM
While visiting my pop, today, I came across a Sears 3sp. bike (ladie's fr.) with a coaster rear brake.
I'd guess 60's for vintage. Says; "made in Austria" on head badge. The 3sp. hub
has a grease nipple of some sort that hugs the left flange close to the spokes.
Too much dirt and dried oil to read anything and I didn't want to get dirty hands, so I don't know if there is an ID on the drum.
It rolls real good! Q.: Is this collectable or junkable?
No major crash signs or rust decay on frame.

   RE:MISC:   Sears 3sp. with coaster brake posted by sam on 5/29/2001 at 5:29:34 AM
I wouldn't call it junk,but not collectable .Well made city bike just add a few drops of sewing machine oil to hub and you will have a good town bike--sam

   Sears 3sp. with coaster brake posted by John E on 5/29/2001 at 7:30:10 AM
Sam is right -- it is between collectible and junkable. Unfortunately, it is a Sears-marketed Murray (Huffy?) boat anchor, rather than one of the earlier, much lighter Steyr-Daimler-Puchs.

AGE / VALUE:    posted by: log on 5/28/2001 at 4:52:37 PM
I have a pair(male/female)3-speed(Shimano) Free Spirts that a firend gave me and I was just wondering what they were going for these days. Nice shape, built 1/81, metalic blue.

   nada posted by John E on 5/28/2001 at 5:37:43 PM
They are worth about what you paid for them. Sorry about that ...

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by log on 5/28/2001 at 7:11:03 PM
That's what I thought.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by log on 5/28/2001 at 7:11:06 PM
That's what I thought.