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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

AGE / VALUE:†††no name peugeot (12 vitesses,speeds) posted by: nick on 7/31/2001 at 8:31:57 AM
pearl white paint with red too orange,yellow,too white stripes. The frame has no lugs. Simplex rear dropouts. The frame sticker says HLE(huate limite elastique). cta stem and bars.weinman type 500 brakes. nervar cranks. sachs huret shift on the downtube. the rear derailuer has the remains of the word rival. the groved seatpost is micro adjust. the rear wheel has a maillard helico-matic hub(low flange) and spidel QR. The front has an araya rim with a normandy hub(high flange) and mmatom QR. QUESTIONS: 1.wich is the original wheel? 2. what is the HLE frame? 3. any info on the nervar cranks?. 4. what is the rear derailuer? 5. what year? 6. what is the model or how can i tell?
7. what is the quality?____________(paid 15 bucks)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††no name peugeot (12 vitesses,speeds) posted by Ed on 8/2/2001 at 9:58:26 AM
I have a pearl white Peugeot much like yours and will try to answer as many of your questions as I can.1.The maillard Hicomaticel is the original wheel.2.Can't help mine has a Carbolite 103 frame.3. My cranks have S France on them. Pedals have Lytard 82 made in France on them.4. Both deraillers are Simplex,all metal no plastic.5.Mine was originaly purchased in 1985 from a shop thats still in business in our area.6.Could not determine model over the phone and did not have time to load the bike and drive thirty miles round trip to the shop.I was advised by the man I spoke with,that he could not specify a model without seeing the bike although he has worked in the shop for twenty-one years. He judged the quality to be mid-range selling new from $250.00 to $350.00. I paid $40.00 for mine about four years ago.My wheels appear to be original and are both Rigida.The rear cable for my Weinmann 500 brakes passes through the top tube.The brake levers are aluminum,drilled out with yellow rubber hoods on them. The stripes on mine go from dark to light blue. Other than that the two bikes seem to be quite similar. The difference in the color of the stripes could indicate a different model year or might be that they used two different colors in 85.I hope my info has been helpful.Good luck with the bike.

MISC:†††It should be basic, yet... posted by: Oscar on 7/31/2001 at 7:47:15 AM
I've never had the opprotunity to adjust side pull brakes before now. I've been rehabbing the latest patient, and the brakes confuse me. I've got the bolts throught the holes, and tightened the nuts in back, but the calipers didn't center after braking. I tried adjusting the front nuts, but that made them either too tight or loose. I know I've missed something basic, but what is it? A quick tutorial, please?

   RE:MISC:†††It should be basic, yet... posted by Brian L. on 7/31/2001 at 12:31:41 PM
One trick that I've found helpful is to get the pads all set up and then tighten the brake assembly most, but not all of the way. Do final tightening while compressing the pads against the rim, which will help hold the assembly in place. Please note, that Record, SR and most Suntour sidepulls have slotted spring holder assemblies to provide as space for a spanner (a 13 mm if I'm not mistaken), precisely to allow for centering adjustment.

   RE:MISC:†††It should be basic, yet... posted by ken on 7/31/2001 at 9:50:31 AM
the trick is to get the nut behind the frame tight enough, while centering the spring. The nuts on the caliper side need to be adjusted so that the calipers move freely without undue flex or play, which is why there are two to lock together (same as cone locknuts). Some folks grab the spring with a pair of channellocks while tightening the backside nut, since it's going to rotate in the tightening directiUsually it's also possible to rotate the whole unit after it's tight. Just bear in mind that the spring is fixed on the axle, while the calipers are free. You'll get it.

MISC:†††INFO WANTED posted by: Ian on 7/31/2001 at 12:18:33 AM
I have acquired a collection of old track and roadrace bikes. With them in boxes came two derailleur sets and I would like some help to identify/date/value them and also would like to know what types of bikes they would have been fitted to. Perhaps I can put them back on the correct bikes with a bit of help.
1) Marked "OSGEAR SUPER CHAMPION BREVETE SGDG" and has the number 5858 stamped in to it. I have a shift lever with the same number and three holes so presume it is three speed. There is a long chain tensioner with single wheel and a shifter which clamps to the lower stay and has a fork that I presume fits over the chain. I don't have a cluster with it but there are boxes of them so I may be able to find the right one if I know what to look for.
2) Marked "SIMPLEX CHAMPION DU MONDE" on one side of the derailleur and "Simplex Brevette ---? (possibly HDG) madein France" on the other side.It has a spiral flat spring, single idler wheel plus a guide and a friction lever which also is marked "Le Simplex". It is tied together with a two speed English freewheel cluster made by Bayliss ???(Grey?) and Co with another screw on sprocket also tied in the bundle. Any help or ideas on where to look appreciated, thanks, Ian.

   RE:RE:MISC:†††INFO WANTED posted by Warren on 7/31/2001 at 6:53:16 PM
I think I've seen the Osgear in the "Databook" and maybe the Brown Bros. catalogue...I will look. If the Simplex is early enough, it could make even a thousand dollars. An NOS Simplex Juy derailleur and shifter in the package went for $1400 on e-bay. Yikes!

   RE:RE:MISC:†††INFO WANTED posted by Warren on 7/31/2001 at 6:54:56 PM
I think I've seen the Osgear in the "Databook" and maybe the Brown Bros. catalogue...I will look. If the Simplex is early enough, it could make even a thousand dollars. An NOS Simplex Juy derailleur and shifter in the package went for $1400 on e-bay. Yikes!

   RE:RE:MISC:†††INFO WANTED posted by Warren on 7/31/2001 at 7:01:48 PM
I think I've seen the Osgear in the "Databook" and maybe the Brown Bros. catalogue...I will look. If the Simplex is early enough, it could make even a thousand dollars. An NOS Simplex Juy derailleur and shifter in the package went for $1400 on e-bay. Yikes!

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:†††INFO WANTED posted by Ian on 7/31/2001 at 11:47:23 PM
Warren, thanks for the info, the values you suggest blow me away especially as I would get $2.40 New Zealand for every $1.00 US! However I have no intention of selling them at least for now, they are too nice to look at and I hope to be able to put them to use eventually. Could you please post the ful name and author of "The data book" so I can try and get a copy here or on the net and also advise who "Brown Bros" are so I can send for the catalogue. Thanks, Ian.

   RE:MISC:†††INFO WANTED posted by Paul Aslanides on 8/1/2001 at 5:09:13 AM
Ian - You lucky fellow! This is rare stuff you have. The boxes of clusters may have been a selection of different gear ratios. Close ratio 3 and 4 spd. clusters were more scarce than the standard wide ratio cluster. Maybe for 1/8" chain.

As mentioned above, there's a good book out: "The Dancing Chain", by Ron Shepherd, Frank Berto, and one other gent.
Gives a first class history of derailleur gears, and is now
out of print,i.e. all sold out over here. "Sunset for Suntour" is a good read/site, by Frank Berto. For more history of the development of derailleur gears, see Tony Hadland's site.
The two-speed English freewheel cluster..probably made by
Bayliss Wylie, first class components, better that any other from the U.K., imo, esp. bottom brackets.

   RE:RE:MISC:†††INFO WANTED posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 8/1/2001 at 5:49:10 PM
There was a fellow here awhile back who was selling old copies on laser disc. Brown Brothers is not into bicycles any more but the old catalogs are excellent refrence material. Bruce somebody, I forget his last name. I would be buying up old derailers if I were you.

   RE:MISC:†††INFO WANTED posted by Rudgematch on 7/31/2001 at 7:15:15 AM
These are quite lovely and the Simplex can be seen on eBay selling for hundreds of dollars. I know next to nothing about these myself, but would recommend Frank Berto's book _The Dancing Chain_ for a reference.

MISC:†††info about a Royal Sabre posted by: Andy on 7/30/2001 at 6:45:46 PM
I hope somebody may be able to help me in identifing and possible estimating value of a bike that was given to me about 8 years ago and since I'm getting ready to move I would like to know if it's worth hanging on to?
A 26 inch wheel, 3 speed, left grip shifted, step thru bike
Color is dark blue with white pinstriping and chrome crown on both fenders. Has a blue and white vinyl seat with a plaque on the back that says President. Plaque appears to be made of brass or bronze. It has a chrome chain guard. I haven't looked for a serial #. Below the handle bars there is a red, blue and brass colored (possibly enamaled) plaque, with some sort of crest and the words Royal Sabre on it. Any information would be greatly appriciated and thank you in advance.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††velosolex 10 speed (non-motorized) posted by: Joel on 7/30/2001 at 1:41:03 PM
I recently purchased a Velosolex "St. Pierre" 10 speed at a stoop sale in Brooklyn. I was wondering if anyone knew anything about the bicycle or the company. I've never heard of Velosolex other than as a moped maker - did they also make 10 speeds? This one is silver with orange stickers that say "made in france". It has Weinmann center pull cantilevers and steel rims and cottered cranks. Does anyone have any info on this bike or the company? Age? It seems to run pretty well. Very curious. - Joel

MISC:†††2 types of tires posted by: Cal on 7/30/2001 at 6:51:59 AM
'nother newbie question from me as I learn more about lightweights.

Most of the ballooners and musclebikes I deal with have 'clincher' tires, but I have yet to encounter a 'sewup' tire (as far as I know!)

Can someone explain the differences and how to mount a sewup (do they require glue?)?


   totally tubular posted by John E on 7/30/2001 at 7:36:41 AM
See sheldonbrown.com for a good discussion. Yes, tubulars MUST be glued to their rims. The tyre casing completely encloses the inner tube, rather than only three sides of it, with the rim tape holding the inner surface, as on a clincher or wired-on tyre.

   RE:totally tubular posted by Oscar on 7/30/2001 at 7:44:39 AM
Iím in the middle of my first sew-up adventure. The rims for these tires are called tubulars, and they are very light weight. Mounting them is a pain, but maybe thatís because Iím just learning. They use rim cement, which requires 24 hours curing time before riding. I hope I never puncture on the road since I never ride with a tent to stay in for the day.

   RE:RE:totally tubular posted by Warren on 7/30/2001 at 11:24:10 AM
If you get a flat on the road with your tubular, you can just mount your spare, inflate, and go. The old glue will provide some friction to stop the tire sliding off the rim. Just take it easy till you get home and mount the tire properly. The air pressure will hold the tire to the rim enough to allow a moderate pace. Sprints and downhill twisties are verboten!

   RE:RE:RE:totally tubular posted by Jim V on 7/30/2001 at 9:36:30 PM
I second Oscar's remark, they're tough to mount on the rim. I've been using them since 1961, and I think each new one is a little tighter than the last. I always end up with some glue on my fingers. Forty years ago the tubes weren't butyl and had to be pumped up every day, and the imported tubes of cement always leaked at the seam or the crimp. I kept the tube of glue in a plastic bag and never had to open the cap after the first time I used it. But there was no comparison between the performance of sewups and clinchers back then. Even though modern clinchers are dramatically better, I still prefer tubulars. If I have a flat on the road, I just unfold the spare and mount it as Warren recommends. Even repairing punctures isn't too difficult, though I throw out a tire if I've already opened it once or if it's old or has a large cut.

AGE / VALUE:†††Fuji Catalogs posted by: Guy B. Meredith on 7/29/2001 at 3:28:14 PM
I am interested in obtaining a copy of a Fuji catalog listing the
League, apparently an entry level racer/road bike circa 1985.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Fuji Special Road Racer posted by: john hawrylak on 7/29/2001 at 2:23:04 PM
I bought my neighbors Fuji Special Road Racer. He bought it from the original owner. Bike was bouught between 1973 ans 1975. The oriignal owner told my neighbor (both are lawyers) the bike is a S-10S.

Their is no model number on the bike, only "Special Road Racer" on the down tube (oversized). The frame is lugged. There is also no sticker stating the type of tubing. Components are Sugino crank, Suntour derailluers (V-GT on rear), downtube friction shifters, Diacompe centerpulls, aluminum rims.

Is this a S-10 model? Is the frame tubes double butted chrome moly tubing?


John Hawrylak

Does this

   Fuji Special Road Racer posted by John E on 7/29/2001 at 9:00:22 PM
It sounds alot like my '71 American Eagle Semi-Pro (Nishiki Competition), which had Ishiwata double-butted CrMo main tubes. Do you have the Campy-copy Sugino Mighty Compe cranks, or the cheap 3-pin Sugino Maxis? (In either event, you may want to replace the crankset for your own safety, particularly if you climb out-of-saddle as Lance did in the TdF.)

   RE:Fuji Special Road Racer posted by RudgeMatch on 7/31/2001 at 7:24:13 AM
Why would you want to replace these cranks?
I thought the Campagnolo model which the Sugino copied had the stress riser problem on the spider which could be solved with judicious use of a file. I thought Super Mighty cranks were fine. Can anyone expound on the "bad crank" myths?

I snapped a Stronglight in the middle of the crankarm, and on my non-dominant side (submissive side?). I've never seen any warning about that model of crank. It was a poor forging I suspect.

Rudge "Fuji Touring Series IV" Match

AGE / VALUE:†††UNIVEGA posted by: ROSEMARY on 7/28/2001 at 11:27:28 PM
Hi everyone. I recently bought a bicycle that I know absolutely nothing about and I'm hoping someone could help. It has univega written on it and it has skinny tires, big handle bars and a headlamp on it that I believe is original because there's a sticker on the frame that says "uni-light". Anyway, I'm just wondering if anyone knows anything about it. thank you in advance.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††UNIVEGA posted by Walter on 7/29/2001 at 6:03:07 AM
Need to know more such as the name on the components and where the shifters are. Univega is currently owned by the company that also owns Raleigh and is an American company though I'm pretty sure most if not all of the construction is done in Asia. New Univegas are nice bikes they use Columbus steel frames and Campagnolo components. Pretty decent price for what you get. (Yes, I own one) I hear that the Univega name will soon be dropped.

Your Univega is probably older. Do the shifters make a "click" noise when they shift? I don't know much of the history of the brand. I'm pretty sure they were never considered top-shelf but have always been nice riders. Tell us more about the bike and I'm sure some other regulars migt have some info as well.

MISC:†††Taking in the sights posted by: Oscar on 7/28/2001 at 6:13:29 PM
I haven't gone bike hunting for a while, but I came back with an eyeful. On the road, I waited for a light with a German man in his 60's riding a '55 Schwinn Hollywood - with a tank no less. He likes the bike because it has a step through frame, and he is "too old a dog" to swing his leg over a top tube.

At the sporting goods resale shop I fell in love. There was an orange and green 12-speed named Zebraketko (?) from maybe the late 70's. It had Suntour Superbe brakes, levers, and shifters. It even had the original gum hoods. Good thing it was a 48cm frame - too small.

Next to it was an almost-as-beautiful Bridgestone 500 in my size. Pink paint ohmygoodness.

Near Wrigley field, there was an interesting yard sale. The only bike there was a Japanese bike from the 60's called Sutton. It had chrome head lugs and a pump peg. Half-step cottered crank. Too cool. Finally, it had Shimano Dura Ace brakes - centerpull too of all things. Also suicide brake extension levers (as they are properly called). Who was buying Japanese 10 speeds in the 60's?

Best of all I didn't buy a thing. I hope you all had as much fun - and maybe came home with a beauty.

I hope you all had as much fun.

   RE:MISC:†††Taking in the sights posted by Wings on 7/28/2001 at 11:26:25 PM
I have noticed that older men are riding womens bikes because they are easier to get on. I have also seen small size older men ride girls StingRay style bikes with the Banana seat or boys BMX bikes.
I hope I can graduate to the point of maturity where I can also go out and appreciate bikes without buying them! I am working hard on this and it is working -- sort of!

   RE:RE:MISC:Taking in the sights posted by Mike Stone on 7/31/2001 at 5:22:38 AM
I hope I can reach that stage of maturity where I can ride a girl's Stingray and not be banned by my family and shunned by friends.

   Preparing for the inevitable posted by Oscar on 7/31/2001 at 8:23:10 AM
I'm building a Varsity for a friend of mine. He, like us, vows to be riding forever. He's 6'0 and rides a 24" frame. At 42, he's only going to shrink. Maybe we should invest in hi-quality step-through frames. (And perhaps we should lose the term "girl bike". Long live the mixtie!

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††1978 Raleigh Super Grand Prix posted by: Gary on 7/27/2001 at 12:27:26 PM

I recently obtained a 1978 Raleigh Super Grand Prix road bike. It is in very good condition, only a couple scratches, all but one frame decal is perfect, color is a champaign metallic and black. Brooks Professional saddle, Suntour V-Lux deraullier, Weinmann 610 brakes, Normandy hubs, alloy crankset, 23.5" frame. A very clean bike. Made in England. Seriel #: WE8000209

It has a very cool 1977 Tour de France Team Winner decal.

The only mechanical problem is a rear wheel that is out of true and has a flatspot. I recently completely cleaned it, lubed the cables, etc. Looks sharp.

Does it have any value? It came from Texas, so not much moisture or water in its past. I in Portland, OR. I'd gladly sell it...

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††1978 Raleigh Super Grand Prix posted by Skip Echert on 7/27/2001 at 6:44:47 PM
Hello Gary -
Yours probably has high tensile tubing for the frame material, which places it as a mid level bike. The saddle has value as does the suntour bar end shifters if it is so equipped. It has little collector value but should be a good ride. For more info go to http://www.ifalldown.com/spin/ and http://retroraleighs.netfirms.com/
The 78 catalog lists it 4th out of 10, just below the Super Course Value is in the eye of the beholder - $75 to $150?
I hope this helps.

MISC:†††HELP! posted by: Ron on 7/26/2001 at 5:26:31 PM
I have a MINT 1980 Collegiate womens 3 speed, all original paint, parts
and tires still have tits on tread. Has been stored for 21 years. Is this
Bike worth anything or should I hold onto it for another 21 years??
Please advise!! Thank You.

   ride it and enjoy it posted by John E on 7/27/2001 at 6:25:35 AM
Since it will not become a collectible during the next few decades, its primary value is as a daily transportation or recreational rider. Either ride it or give it to someone who will.

   RE:MISC:†††HELP! posted by Robert on 7/27/2001 at 11:10:48 AM
John E is right. I recently bought a 1978 model in about the same condition as yours. The value of it to me is that it will be a excellent bike for my daughter. Unless you are a serious collector a bike should be bought with the idea of riding.

WANTED:†††1960's Raleigh Professional Track Bike posted by: John Thompson on 7/26/2001 at 9:15:35 AM
Wanted: Head Tube Badge and Reynolds 531 decals for subject bike. Thanks for your help, John Thompson.

MISC:†††Jim B from Fair Haven posted by: Oscar on 7/25/2001 at 1:00:08 PM

I recieved the shifters, but had lost your email and address. I have the address now, and will mail the Gipiemmes. Email me with your email address.

Thanks again - they're beautiful.

AGE / VALUE:†††Peugeot Parts posted by: New to vintage on 7/25/2001 at 11:36:46 AM

I'm working on fixing up my wife's old Peugeot Ph10-L for my daughter. I have a fractured locknut on the axel of the rear Helicomatic hub. Does anyone know the thread size for this nut? I have been to too many bike shops around D.C. and they can't find one to fit. Also looking for a source for brake pads and hoods for the levers.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Peugeot Parts posted by Oscar on 7/25/2001 at 12:59:30 PM
Bad news on the Helicomatic - they aren't made and locknuts are really hard to find. Maybe someone here has a stash.

Regarding brake shoes, use high quality ones - preferably Kool Stop. To source brake lever hoods, we need to know what kind of brakes. Maybe Weinmann centerpulls? Let us know.

   brake hoods & helicomatic posted by John E on 7/25/2001 at 7:41:18 PM
CyclArt.com has Weinmann-compatible brake hoods, and perhaps Mafacs, as well.

My strong recommendation: replace the Helicomatic with a nice conventional Normandy or Atom hub and freewheel. Your Helicomatic cogs will wear out sooner or later, and replacements are unavailable. The purists may complain, but most people would accept a period-correct French hub and freewheel. (As always, save those Helicomatic parts in a bag for a potential future restorer.)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Peugeot Parts posted by Jim on 7/26/2001 at 4:35:40 AM
I have NOS Mafac Brake parts.