This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: Vintage Lightweights

WANTED:   Schwinn Varsity Decals, 1973 posted by: Mark Van Dine on 8/27/2001 at 5:18:08 PM
I'm rebuilding a 1973 Schwinn Varsity. The paint job is completely shot, so I have to strip and powder coat it. Do you have (or do you know where to find) decal sets for this bike? I've been watching eBay, but not much is surfacing there. Any help appreciated. Thanks

   Schwinn.com posted by John E on 8/28/2001 at 6:28:39 AM
Please repost on schwinn.com's Heritage / Collector's Forum.

   RE:Schwinn.com posted by Mark Van Dine on 8/28/2001 at 4:11:13 PM
I tried that ... and probably just coincidence, they cleared out the discussion database right after that and my post was tossed into the ether! I should re-post, but sometimes have a hard time convincing myself that anyone is minding the store over there.

   try again posted by John E on 8/31/2001 at 6:37:19 AM
Give it another go, Mark. The Schwinn forum suffers from an inordinate number of childish, rude postings, and the cleanup operations frequently inadvertently delete valid postings, as well. (When Huffy was Schwinn's buyer-apparent, the Schwinn webmaster promptly deleted every negative comment I made about Huffy.)

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Torrot Bicycle posted by: Ray Weekly on 8/27/2001 at 3:56:08 PM
A few years ago I purchased for $200 a Torrot bike that was originally picked up in Europe. Nicely detailed lugs. Super Vitus tubing. "Tour of Spain" model, the headbadge says "Made in Spain". Came with Simplex 5500 derailleurs, with the gold badges, Stronglight 49D crankset with 51/34 chainrings. Atom and Maillard hubs and Rigida rims, Simplex barcons, Stronglight competition headset, and Stronglight French-threaded BB. Very nice rider. I have not been able to find any information on this make, does anyone out there know anything about it? It has become my favorite daily rider. Thanks.

   Terrot ?? posted by John E on 8/27/2001 at 4:21:36 PM
If you are sure about the spelling and the country of origin, it sounds like a Spanish copy of a French Terrot. Terrot was known for some innovative (and evolutionary dead-end) designs.

   RE:Terrot ?? posted by Ray Weekly on 8/27/2001 at 5:54:22 PM
The spelling and country are correct, although when I originally purchased it, sight unseen, I assumed that it was a Terrot.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Voyager 11.8 posted by: Steven Spires on 8/27/2001 at 10:59:47 AM
I found a Schwinn Voyager 11.8 at a garage sale for $15. I bought it for the frame, but got it home and realized that, except for the decals, it was like brand new. I have cleaned it up, put new tape, cables, and brake pads, and have been commuting on it. I really like it, and it fits better than my "new" road bike. Now I'm curious about the age.
Serial # 1A01976.
Bars Sakae Custom, SR Stem & Post
Sugino Super Maxy crank, 52 x 40
Shimano Altus derailleurs, downtube shifters
Dia-Compe long reach brakes & drilled levers
Araya 27 x 1 1/4 rims, Shimano VIA hubs
Thanks in advance for any info. Guess I'm kind of hooked on old bikes, now I find myself looking at garage sales when I drive by.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Voyager 11.8 posted by Debby on 8/27/2001 at 11:35:39 AM
Sounds just like the Voyageur 11.8 I bought last December
at the Goodwill for $10. Yours has the same components.
This one is black with red cable housing. Nice looking bike.

Sorry, I'm not much help with the date. In addition to the
serial number, there is a number on the headbadge (mine is 0331).
I think I read (back when I first started looking for info)
that the headbadge gives the last digit of the year of mfg.
I'm sorry I can't recall - I'll do a quick search and try to
find it.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Voyager 11.8 posted by Debby on 8/27/2001 at 12:15:04 PM
"There may be a four-digit number lightly stamped onto the
headbadge. The first three digits are the day of the year,
and the last digit is the last digit of the year. For
example, 3656 would be 12/31/76 or '86."

Hope it was ok to quote this from a post on another forum.

: If the headbadge says "Schwinn Approved", it is an import, either made in Japan or Taiwan. If it says "Schwinn Chicago" it was a bike made in Chicago or Schwinn's Mississippi plant.

   Schwinn Voyager 11.8 posted by John E on 8/27/2001 at 1:38:13 PM
You have found a nice Japanese bike at a very attractive price. If it has a 5-speed freewheel, it's probably pre-1980. Someone else said that if the serial number on the BB housing starts with a G, the frame is a rebadged Giant (Taiwan). Otherwise, I suspect it is a Panasonic. At any rate, enjoy the ride!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Voyager 11.8 posted by John on 8/27/2001 at 8:26:17 PM
Your bike is probably a 1980-82, made in Japan.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Voyager 11.8 posted by Steven Spires on 8/27/2001 at 8:48:19 PM
Thanks for all the info. A little more info. 4130 double butted main tubes. 25" frame. It's made in Japan, so probably a Panasonic? 6 speed. # on headbadge 3220, so made in late 1980? It had red decals and cable housings, but the decals were bad, so they are gone, and the cables are black. Found Dia-Compe gum hoods at the LBS, and put black cable housings on, black cork tape. With half of the chainstays, seatstays & forks chrome, looks sharp! Thanks again.

   November 1980 posted by John E on 8/28/2001 at 6:34:56 AM
Nice bike, particularly if you are over 6 feet tall. I vote for November 1980 production by Panasonic, with a mixed tubeset. At that time, almost every manufacturer built its midgrade frames out of d.b. CrMo (in your case) or MnMo (Reynolds 531) main tubes and plain steel forks and stays.

   RE:November 1980 posted by Steven Spires on 8/28/2001 at 8:51:36 AM
I'm not over 6' (5' 11"), but have LONG legs, short torso. So I'm finding that older bikes fit better. This one is 64 cm seat tube center to top, and 57 cm top tube. Seems just right.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bianchi bottom bracket posted by: Robert on 8/27/2001 at 10:56:36 AM
Bought a fairly clean Bianchi Prima? today . And then while driving back to work i remembered that Italian bikes have a different bottom bracket. Is that true for all Bianchi's made in Italy? What is different besides the screw in cups?


   Bianchi bottom bracket posted by John E on 8/27/2001 at 1:43:55 PM
Unless the factory has finally seen the light, all Italian-made Bianchis use 36mm x 24TPI bearing cups, RH threaded on both sides. (I use LocTite liberally on the fixed cup.) The BB shell width is 70mm, in contrast to the 68mm one typically finds on ISO/English-threaded bikes.

One neat trick you can do with French or Italian BBs is to assemble them using two adjustable cups (and lots of LocTite on the right), which allows you to fine-tune your chainline by a mm or two in either direction.

   RE:Bianchi bottom bracket posted by Robert on 8/28/2001 at 10:45:26 AM
Are the RH cups bad about unscrewing themselves? Is this something that you should be concerned about ? Or it it one of those things that "can happen" but usually doesn't?

   Italian & French BB threads posted by John E on 8/28/2001 at 12:01:22 PM
A counterclockwise-threaded (English or Swiss) fixed cup is self-tightening. Because a clockwise-threaded (Italian or French) fixed-cup is self-loosening, one needs either to cinch it down VERY tightly or to use something like LocTite on the threads. Although the two Fr/It-threaded bikes I currently own are trouble-free, the BBs of two earlier bikes self-loosened repeatedly, unless LocTited. Many service manuals strongly advise against removing Fr/It BB fixed cups for routine bearing repacking.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What's a Romic? posted by: jake knable on 8/27/2001 at 4:38:27 AM
I have a large bicycle frameset made by a company I've never heard of. The company's name is Romic. The frame is butted 531, it has a cinelli bottom bracket shell, and copper colored campy dropouts. The fork is butted 531 as well with a box crown. The whole frameset is painted except for the dropout tips which aren't chromed instead it seems like there is a layer of copper coating them (is that possible?). What is this thing? Where did it come from? When? Please help me solve this mystery. P.S. any information concerning the dropouts would be apreciated.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What's a Romic? posted by Brian L. on 8/27/2001 at 8:36:08 AM
Romic's aren't a company, but rather a small, well-respected custom builder. Still in business. Check the web.

   Romic posted by John E on 8/27/2001 at 10:36:00 AM
Sounds like a great find to me!

   RE:Romic posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 8/27/2001 at 11:20:38 AM
A wonderful find! If you are tall and the frame fits you, then it gets even better because you can ride the thing. Isn't a tall frame worth more too.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   drool factor posted by: Brian L. on 8/26/2001 at 7:56:01 PM
ebay #1183098276, big time drool factor! Beautiful, exemplary, although I was confused about the descriptive line noting small-flange NR hubs when the ones pictured are hf. 1181438353 also gets my blood flowing. Much better deal. I would love to have a mint, full 2000 Zeus.

   nice equipment posted by John E on 8/27/2001 at 1:53:06 PM
That Cinelli looks very sharp, and it is more collectible than the Zeus. Notice the non-diagonal "531" decal on the Zeus. Since the owner claims it has butted tubes, then it must have plain steel fork and stays. My mixed tubeset Peugeot PKN-10 (PX-10 pretender) has the same 531 decal (in French, of course).

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Can you tell me MORE ? ' Nishiki ' posted by: Robbie on 8/26/2001 at 5:23:12 PM
I appreciated your quick response to my inquiry as to the approx. Age and Quality of this Nishiki road bike I have! I'm new to this interest and hobby and so I got more imformation about this bike which I hope will be helpful. This Nishiki Road bike is a 10 spd and very Light! On the underneath below the serial no.(KC24275)is a engraved W! Some of the parts Makers are SUNTOUR that was on the derailer item no.4532 as well as the shifters!The Crank says SUGINO Number 52! The Caliper brakes are type 600 by Weiman and the brake Levers and Pads say "DIA COMPE" ! The name Raleigh also is engraved on the shifters with Suntower! The Rims say 2+1.25w/oJapan with a symbol ^R^Y^ ! And, the top of the Forks has the letter "N" ! I noticed NO other Insigna's on the frame except "Custom Sport" on the down tube! I hope this imformation about this bike will give clues to it's Approx Date and Quality of this Bike??? Thanks and I'm looking forward to your HELP>>>>Robbie

   Custom Sport posted by John E on 8/27/2001 at 7:18:25 AM
I have seen "4532" on bolt-on SunTour derailleur hangers.

^R^Y^ is probably "ARAYA," a decent Japanese rim builder.

"Custom Sport" was one of Nishiki's lower-end offerings. Are your cranks steel with cotter pins (early 1970s), or aluminum cotterless (later 1970s)?

The "52" on the outer Sugino ring is the number of teeth.

The 5-speed freewheel indicates 1970s.

The original brakeset would have been DiaCompe, which were Weinmann copies.

For your own safety, replace those DiaCompe pads with KoolStops.

The engraved W denotes West Coast Cycle Supply, which was Nishiki's importer.

Another data point: my 1971 American Eagle Semi-Pro had serial number KS78091. In 1973, the company started using its Japanese name, instead. (Sort of like Datsun --> Nissan.) The "K" stands for Kawamura, Nishiki's contract frame builder. Perhaps the "S" stands for SemiPro (later, "Competition"), and the "C" stands for "Custom Sport."

Now the bad news -- the value of your bicycle is minimal, but if you like it and it fits you well, keep it and enjoy the ride!

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Year and Short Stature of this Road bike posted by: Robbie on 8/25/2001 at 10:51:42 PM
I recently bought a Lightweight Road Bike at a yard sale which i know nothing about nor approx. age! It's a Japaneese make called Nishiki and is a Custom Sport addition. The serial number is KC24275, It's a 10 spd,weighs approx.7 lbs and is equiped with Quality Japanese parts. Strangly enough, it also has some Raleigh parts too ? The bike has 27in. racing wheels and Rims and it is silver and Black. Could you please tell me more? Thankyou .... Robbie

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Year and Short Stature of this Road bike posted by Warren on 8/26/2001 at 8:45:12 AM
I think the question is, "Can you tell us more?" If you can describe who made each and every part on the bike incuding the tubing, someone can likely tell you the quality of the bike and a time frame from which it was likely made. One other question...it weighs 7 lbs? Without wheels and crankset? The complete bike should be at least 15 lbs heavier than that.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh Record 10 speed posted by: Eric Law on 8/25/2001 at 8:35:06 PM
Hi i just bought a raleigh record 10 speed at a garage sale it is all white with a orange headtube and a orange band about 10 in long on the seat tube, it has huret downtube shifters and deraileur, a wrights leather saddle, altenburger center pull brakes normandy hubs, 27x 1 1/4 wheels. has a high carbon steel frame, i am trying to figure the year of the bike and if they were very good,, Thank You, Eric Law.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh Record 10 speed posted by Eric on 8/25/2001 at 8:44:54 PM
ps serial no is on the left rear dropout, it reads 4M13148

   Raleigh Record 10 speed posted by John E on 8/27/2001 at 7:23:56 AM
Check the Retro Raleighs website to be sure, but the Record was Raleigh's bottom-of-the-line 10-speed. Yours probably sold for just over $100 in the early 1970s and competed against the Peugeot U0-8 and the much heavier Schwinn Continental. It is a decent transportation and recreation bike, much nicer than anything you can find today for under $300 or so.

MISC:   Gotta problem posted by: Oscar on 8/25/2001 at 1:55:51 PM
Long story short, I bought a great bike at a swap meet. The best part of it was its tubular wheelset with Phil Wood hubs. After a small bit of cleaning, truing, and new tires, I wound up with a great set of wheels.

The problem is that the freewheel is worn and needs to be replaced. I took it to my LBS to take it off and they couldn't. I watched them huff and puff, and then I saw the "keyhole" where the fw remover started to bend.

Only the 13t cog is worn, so I can live with it. Has anyone replaced a freewheel cog with a new one? It's a Regina freewheel. I hope a spare Shimano cog would fit onto the fw body. Any experience, advice, guesses?

   RE:MISC:   Gotta problem posted by Wings on 8/25/2001 at 11:55:22 PM
I am confused as to how a freewheel remover could bend. The removers are about the size of a socket and they fit into the freewheel and the axle nuts hold the remover in place as a wrench is used to unscrew the freewheel. Since they are the size of a socket they cannot bend! But, they can break if not held in place with an axle nut!! I have used a 12 inch crescent wrench with a pipe extension for added leverage and they always come off -- it the wheel still has a tire on it that I can grab with two legs a hand and my chest!
Did they put the axle in a vise?
Or, did they use the remover on the wheel while the tire was held on the ground?
Did they use liquid wrench or a lubricant to help remove it?
I have never had one I could not remove!
If you could spray some lubricant on the hub and try again it would be very easy to put another freewheel on.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Gotta problem posted by Oscar on 8/26/2001 at 3:22:47 PM
Thanks for the advice, Wings. I wish I had sprayed penetrant onto the hub before I brought it in. It wasn't the freewheel remover that bent, it was the "keyhole" in the freewheel body itself. The LBS did everything I would do, (they used a vise and held the remover onto the axle with a skewer). If there are any regrets, its if they would have given it up before chewing up the freewheel body. I can't blame them, though, because they have saved my skin on many of my failed projects.

Get this - the Regina freewheel uses a remover that looks like a Suntour two-prong remover. The Suntour's prongs are a hair wider than the Regina. They never saw a remover like it. The owner took a new Suntour, ground down the prongs, and made it fit. They charged me nothing for the effort.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Gotta problem posted by Wings on 8/26/2001 at 10:13:32 PM
Now I understand! You probably had a Park FR-2 (2 prong) that works on Suntour freewheels and ground it down. So, in other words, the remover prongs slipped a little and chewed the two slots in the freewheel. Right?
I hope you post how you salvage this situation because I would like to know -- just in case this happens to me!
Could you soak the hub and then file down a new Park FR-2 so that it fits extrememly snug and then put more pressure on the skewer to hold it in place -- and try again? I like the wheel on the floor much better than in the vice! I get a lot more leverage when I cradle the tire with my feet and also use my knee, chest and both hands with a foot+ long pipe on a 12 inch crescent wrench. Sometimes a couple of quick hits with a hammer will free it and then the skewer and be removed and off it comes. At least then you have the hub that you can use with another freewheel. I checked and I don't have any Regina fw's in my fw box. Good luck!

   Gotta problem posted by John E on 8/27/2001 at 7:30:34 AM
Oscar, you can replace just the 5th cog by using two chain whips. Wrap one around it, the other around the 4th cog. The 13T simply unscrews counter-clockwise from the 4th cog. Your Shimano cog probably has different threads/diameter, but individual Regina cogs are not that hard to find.

If you want to scrap the Regina and replace the entire freewheel, the other approach is to use a center punch to unscrew the retaining ring (clockwise), which you can see inside the 13T cog. This will allow you to lift the cogset (and pawls, springs, bearings, etc.) off of the freewheel body, which you can then grab with a vise or a large pipe wrench. You will probably destroy the freewheel in the process, but you will then be able to repack your right-side bearings. Good luck with it.

   RE:Gotta problem posted by Osca on 8/27/2001 at 7:46:23 AM
Wings and John E: You're both gentlemen of the highest degree. Saving the freewheel is secondary to saving the Phil Wood hub. I'll let you know what comes of this adventure. Thank you very much.

   RE:RE:Gotta problem posted by Ed on 8/30/2001 at 1:31:25 PM
The salvage move to save the hub is to sacrifice the freewheel. I no longer have Regina-specific knowledge, but the usual drill was to take the cogs off with chainwhips. Then take the outer shell off the freewheel by removing the outer cover over the pawls with a pin wrench (it takes some force), then slide the splined part of the freewheel body off. The pawls and bearings and hair-springs fall out all over the floor, but you won't be needing them any more. Then you put what's left of the freewheel in a large, securely anchored vise, and twist off.
If you can't get the outer cover off, just put the whole freewheel body in the vise and crank it down until the outer body collapses around the pawls locking everything in place. This takes a lot of force. Then remove in the ordinary fashion.

Make sure you don't clamp the vise over the part of the freewheel body that's over the threads on the hub.

That's how we did it in the crude old days. Good luck.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Velo Rendezvous Event Oct 6 & 7 posted by: Chuck Schmidt on 8/25/2001 at 1:09:37 PM
Velo Rendezvous Event in Pasadena, California October 6 & 7 for vintage lightweight bikes. Event details at http://www.velo-retro.com Hope to see you all there!!!

Partial list (updated) of bikes promised to appear:
• Bianchi '56 Reparto Corse • Bianchi '66 Specialissima • Bianchi '64 Specialissima • Hetchins '72 Magnum Opus • Hetchins '55 Track Experto Creed • Masi '70 Gran Criterium • Masi '69 Special Track • Cinelli '65 SC w/bivalent • Johnson '76 Track • Benotto '40s w/Cambio Corsa • Bianchi '49 Folgorissima w/Paris-Roubaix • Umberto Dei '36 w/Vittoria Margherita • Legnano '43 Roma w/Cambio Corsa • Legnano '48 w/Paris-Roubaix • Bobby Kemp's Allegro Special Track • Confente ?(last one built by Mario) • Duquesne 1897 • Bianchi '39 w/Vittoria Margherita • Bianchi '54 C d M • Bianchi '79 Superleggera • Bianchi '83 Centenario • Baylis Wizard '74 #16 • Bianchi '86 Colo. Worlds Team • Jean Aerts '50s w/Simplex TdF • Gillott '54 Path • Gillott '54 w/Gran Sport • Gillott '55 Path • Cinelli '60 SC w/bivalent • La Perle '52 Hugo Koblet team bike model • Masi '84 3V Volumetrica w/50th Anni • Peugeot '78 PY10CP Team • Peugeot '80 Pro 10 Team • Confente '78 Strada #67 • Colnago '72 Super • Replica 1900s Pedersen tandem • Masi '60s Special w/Nervex • Hetchins Millennium • Hetchins Tandem • Alex Singer • Masi '62 Special • Masi '69 Special • Masi '71 Gran Criterium • Hetchins '68 Mixtie • Hetchins '72 Scorpion Bonham Spider, vibrant • Hetchins '90 Magnum Opus Track, vibrant • Hetchins '95 Magnum Opus Tandem, vibrant • Hetchins '00 Millinium, vibrant • Rene Herse '51 Ladies frame • Rene Herse '60 Pista /interal headset bearings • Richard Sachs '84 • Wizard '75 Track • Baylis/Salsa '89 Tandem • Baylis '89 Track • Baylis '90 Track • Baylis '90 Areo Track Persuit • Baylis '92 Areo Track • Baylis/Tesch '93 S-22 Track (one of a kind) • Baylis '93 Road (650c wheels) • Baylis '94 Track (650c wheels) • Baylis '00 Road Fixed • Baylis '01 "Double Vibrant Hellenic" Road • Bianchi '81 Super Leggera • Fuji '77 Newest

To be updated as entrants tell me what they are bringing...
Event details at http://www.velo-retro.com

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Velo Rendezvous Event Oct 6 & 7 posted by Keith on 8/28/2001 at 9:55:24 AM
Hefty list! It would be wonderful to have a professional photographer take high quality medium format photos of these bikes, with closeups of the lugwork and components, and make them into a book. Also, this is an excellent list to use as a reference for the many "how much is it worth" questions. If it's on this list, it's worth a lot. If it's not on this list, but is like the ones on this list in terms of tubing and equipment, then it's worth saving, but probably not worth tons. If it's not on this list, and doesn't have the kind of tubing or equipment these bikes have, then use it in good health but don't ever expect to sell it for much.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Looking for infomation on an Armstrong. posted by: Corrigan on 8/24/2001 at 4:45:29 PM
I just purchased what looks to be a very old bicycle.
It's in beautiful condition. I don't know anything about it and I can't find any information on it anywhere including this site.
The bicycle is red, it's a 3-speed and it has the name Armstrong on a few parts of the bike.
On the frame of the bike there's a little metal logo that reads- "Armstong Genuine English Lightweight".
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Alot.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Looking for infomation on an Armstrong. posted by Kevin C. on 8/24/2001 at 5:40:46 PM
You might have more luck posting the same message under "English Roadsters." That's where most of the three-speed people hang out.

WANTED:   decals posted by: steve on 8/24/2001 at 10:49:49 AM
i have an older raleigh racer with a full shimano dura ace 600 set-up that i am restoring. i have found everything i need except the decals. does anyone know where i can find origional decals for raleigh bikes to order? sr#wl0002160

MISC:   UPS Followup posted by: Bob on 8/23/2001 at 1:15:20 PM
I gather that many readers of this list ship bikes so I suppose my experience is topical. A recently shipped and insured bike had frame and forks bent enroute by UPS. Although the bike was insured UPS to this point refuses to pay to have the bike repaired because it was "improperly" packed.

The bike was packed by a bike shop in an industry standard bike carton with the same interior protection that comes with a new bike. UPS says it needed to have two inches of foam around each part. That the bike was damaged by UPS is not in dispute. In any case, they refuse to honor their insurance.

The Reynolds web site gives the stress necessary to deform the tubes as 95Ksi, 95,000 pounds per square inch!

Are there any other companies that handle bike-sized parcels?

   RE:MISC:   UPS Followup posted by Lee on 8/23/2001 at 6:11:58 PM
Check with FedEx and DHL. I think they do as I was close at one time to using FedEx. As for UPS, it sounds like you may have a case against them...consult a lawyer if you're talking about big bucks.


   File Lawsuit today. posted by Gary M on 8/24/2001 at 9:53:38 AM
Having unpacked tons of new bikes, none ever come packed in foam. they are trying to BS you. Industry standard is paper tape on the frame, insulators where loose parts rub, and nothing else. ask for 3x damages. its a simple win win case.

   RE:MISC:   UPS Followup posted by john hwarylak on 8/26/2001 at 2:52:34 PM
The 95 kpsi is the tensile strength of the tubing, the stress where the tubing will fracture, not simply bend.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   1986 Motobecane Jubilee Sport posted by: Chip on 8/23/2001 at 10:22:29 AM
I have recently pulled a 1986 motobecane Jubilee sport out of the attic. Does anyone have any information about the bike or the Motobecane series of road bikes of that time period? Just trying to do a little research on the bike itself.