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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   tires for '78 Raleigh Competition GS posted by: Jim on 8/31/2001 at 7:03:40 PM
I recently purchased a '78 Raleigh Competition GS with stock weinman 700c rims. I've gone to the Harris and International bike shops to find tires for it and have been told that tires are no longer available for those 'straight-sided' rims. According to the original owner's manual, these rims will take either a clincher or a sew-up tire. Does anyone have advice about what kind of tires would be appropriate for this bike? I will use it for commuting about 40 miles per day and an occasional triathlon. Thanks.

   non-hooked rims posted by John E on 9/1/2001 at 1:19:17 PM
Try a Schwinn shop and try a few other mail order houses, such as Excel Sports and Bike Nashbar. Although most of today's high-pressure tyres are designed exclusively for hooked rims, I have seen a few tyres which specify two different recommended pressures, one for straight-wall rims, the other for hooked rims.

   Tire size posted by Oscar on 9/1/2001 at 3:52:20 PM
If you want to use the bike for commuting and occasional competition, you would want two sets of tires. Commuting bikes like 28mm kind-of-wide tires. A tri bike would be 3000% faster with skinny 23mm tires. It would be cool to have an extra wheelset just for racing with a narrow spread of gears.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   tires for '78 Raleigh Competition GS posted by Keith on 9/4/2001 at 1:10:13 PM
I use new tires on my straight-sided, i.e., non-hooked Weinmann Concave rims without a problem. Just inflate to about 10-20 under what hook bead calls for. Start with 20 psi less, and let it sit overnight. Take a short test ride. If it holds, try 5psi higher. Stay at least 10psi below the recommended pressure, however.

   living dangerously posted by John E on 9/4/2001 at 2:22:26 PM
Your advice makes sense, Keith, but I am nervous about using a hookbead-intended tyre on a straight-sided front rim, unless it is a tight fit. This might be a good excuse to replace any old rims with the brake-worn sidewalls, flat spots, etc.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Wheel Size posted by: Art on 8/31/2001 at 8:10:34 AM
There was a Raleigh built Triumph on e-bay recently (it didn't make reserve the first time and I didn't follow its second go around) and it was described as a club bike. It had a S/A three speed rear hub, fenders, drops, and 26"wheels. The wheel size got me to thinking about the differences between 26" wheels and 27" wheels. What are they? Is the term club bike a specific or generic term? Traditionally did club bikes have 26 or 27" wheels? Is the difference in wheelsize negligible to favor one over the other? Any opinions about the set up of that bike, drops, smaller wheels, S/A hub?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Wheel Size posted by on 8/31/2001 at 11:14:21 AM
It went to $400.00 last minute by someone who must love and appreciate these, so it was a happy ending. These were 531 frames with 26 inch wheels. Dunlop 26 X 1 1/4 alloy rims with high pressure tires. A Sturmey-Archer, usually alloy, F.W., F.M., A.C., A.S.C., or a fixed gear set up. A alloy seat post, Brooks Finest saddle. perhaps ChaterLea pedals. I am not certain if it is a specific or a generic term. I don't know what they called the lightweight 27 inch wheel machines. They called them "lightweights" but another term must apply.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Wheel Size posted by Warren on 8/31/2001 at 9:07:00 PM
The 26 X 1 1/4 predated the 27 X 1" wheels. As far as I know they were both Dunlop sizes (597mm and 630 mm respectively)...they made both the rims and the tires and presto...instant market. The 26 X1 1/4 were generally associated with British "club" bikes. This genre of bike seemed to assimilate into the fast growing road bike market which was really a more European class of bike. The 27 X 1" was adopted by the french and some other countries but the Italians almost always used the 700c wheel (622mm), which eventually won the high end market.

Don't confuse the 26 X 1 1/4 with the British 26 X 1 3/8 OR the Canadian 26 X 1 1/2 sizes which were 590 mm. This is the regular "Sport" bike 3-speed size. The rim is wider and the tires generally took less pressure.

And yes there was a racing Dunlop 28 X 1 1/4 size (647 mm?) ...not to be confused with either of the roadster sizes... 28 X 1 3/8 (635mm) or the 28 X 1 1/2 (622 mm...yes the same as a 700c)

Clear as mud...and I haven't even mentioned the US sizes because I don't know them well enough.

Finally, the frame designs were specific to the wheel sizes to allow for pedal clearance. Yes you could adjust with varied lengths of cranks but generally this was also factored into the BB height.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Wheel Size posted by on 9/1/2001 at 11:20:40 AM
This 28 x 1 1/4 racing Dunlop tire he mentions. I have one of these tires N.O.S. Was there a Westwood rim in 28 X 1 1/4 size? I think there was. The old Hercules rod brake bikes had this size wheel. E- mail if interested in this one odd tire.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Wheel Size posted by Keith on 9/4/2001 at 1:15:57 PM
Sheldon Brown's site has an article on British 3-speeds that defines "club bike." For several decades bike racing in Britain was time trialing, and it was done on club bikes. Races were 25 miles, 12 hour, and 24 hour events. These bikes sometimes doubled as daily transportation, and it was not unusual for them to have rack, mudguards, and lights, which were removed for the race. Sheldon talks about the 3-speeds, but I think they were more often fixed gear, single freewheel, or flip-flop. The one on eBay may have been a "suped up" garden variety 3-speed, or could have been a model similar to the common Raleigh Clubman.

AGE / VALUE:   This time it's a blue one. posted by: jonathan on 8/31/2001 at 1:09:14 AM
I couldn't pass up this blue Schwinn 3 spd. It has a SA hub and a front wheel
with oil-nipple. The frame has heavy brazing fillets on the
bottom bracket which makes it seem older than 1966 which is the hub date.
The front fork looks like one continuous piece with spherical shapes on either side
near the top (apex). I can't find the serial number. Any idea of the decade we are
looking at with this scant data?
Happy ridin', Jonathan

   Sounds Tornado-ish to me posted by Gary M on 8/31/2001 at 10:34:39 PM
do the hubs say made in Germany?

   RE:Sounds Tornado-ish to me posted by jonathan on 9/1/2001 at 8:48:58 PM
The front rim is made in Holland. Rear is Sturmey-Archer AW...not original as the serial number starts with A3#### which makes it 1963; if I interpreted the serial num. chart correctly.
The fork looks to single forged piece. The BB has raised
beads at the front tube intersect; as do the chain stays.
This looks "handmade" to me. THe front fender is pinched in to form a
blade-like upper surface. The rear fender is round throughout.
The chain-guard is really secured down with brackets near the end of the chain stay and on
the BB. There's another attached on the upper surface! The front fork is like nothing
I've seen in a bike. THe seat is blue and white. THe shifter
has a steel framework with a round cutout for displaying the
"H, N, and L" gear selections. THe headbadge is fusiline or
"double-ended" oval; vertical with three bars extended from the
centerline to give it an "aero" look...quite interesting.
This is a cool bike. The guy must have ridden without a rear
tire as the rim is major damaged, but it shifts like a new
bike! When I got it home, the only thing that was needed
was air and some oil to get it out on the road. I put 30 miles on it!
Now, I need to get down to fixing it up proper. Who needs
another bike? I just had to drop the $25 to get this old

AGE / VALUE:   1967 Raleigh-Carlton Catalina 10-speed posted by: John Christian on 8/30/2001 at 9:34:07 PM
I have a Raleigh Carlton that I believe to be a 1967 model. I am trying to learn more about it and wonder if someone can help me. This bike has been in my possession since 1968, and I believe it was one year old or less when I purchased it from a relative. It looks very much like the one in a 1967 catalog but the color of mine is sort of a "candy apple orange". It is demarked "Catalina", and there is a logo with the five olympic rings. It has a Capella handmade frame that is stamped with serial number N3433 on the rear wheel mounting and with "RGF" on the crank bearing housing (hub). It is in remarkable condition, but unfortunately I replaced the original derailiers and shift handles with modern types about ten years ago. The Brooks saddle was long since replaced, but other than that all original parts are there.

Any help you could provide as to exact model and date of manufacture would be appreciated. I am considering selling this fine example.

FOR SALE:   ORIGINAL! OSCAR WASTYN SPECIAL posted by: john on 8/30/2001 at 7:28:00 PM
FOR SALE: Original 1930s 6-day track racer built by the son of renowned Schwinn designer Emil Wastyn. This fixed-gear racer is in pristine condition with 95%+ original blue paint; original decals; perfect wood rims with flexible original pneumatic tires; excellent Schwinn signature aluminum hubs; perfect original Troxel racing seat; Nickle plated British components; Original bakelite tire pump; etc. Nothing restored or even polished! Digital pictures available.
This is truly a one of a kind bicycle in this condition.
For more information on the history of Wastyn cycles, search keyword: Wastyn cycles ; Schwinn Paramount
$3500 / offer Phone number available on request.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Tubing info? posted by: Drew on 8/30/2001 at 3:41:11 PM
Does anyone know anything about '20-30 High carbon tubing' circa 1970's, how good is it as far as tubing goes? -Drew

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Tubing info? posted by jonathan on 8/31/2001 at 12:58:04 AM
It's pretty good steel, but nothing like 4130, tange5 or 531.
2030 has about 1/4 the tensile strength (17 Kg/mm^2 vs. 67 Kg/mm^2)
of the Columbus and Chro-Moly steels. It absorbs road rattle
pretty well. I prefer it to the lighter alloys as it gives
a smooth ride. It's about like the "carbolite" alloy used in my Peugeot.
1020 is another steel that is heavier than 2030. The cheaper
bikes used 1020. I suppose it's OK, but I stay clear of 1020

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Tubing info? posted by Drew on 8/31/2001 at 4:04:53 AM
Thanks Jonathan, I've learned something new today. Drew

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Tubing info? posted by on 8/31/2001 at 11:17:28 AM
This is the tubing used in the Raleigh D.L.1. tourist and other Raleigh bikes from Nottingham's past

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Armstrong Effect posted by: Keith on 8/30/2001 at 6:32:53 AM
Very subjective, but I swear that I'm seeing a lot more people out on their old drop handlebar bikes while I commute on the local bike path. Lots of new faces on old bikes, young and old alike. I imagine people catching the news about Lance, and scratching their heads, saying to themselves, "hey, I've got that nice old [whatever it is] rioad bike. I used to love to get on that thing and really tide fast." A LBS owner told me road bike sales are up too. What do you think?

   advocacy posted by John E on 8/30/2001 at 11:31:14 AM
If Lance is willing and able to do as much for transportation and recreational cyclists as he has done for cancer victims and survivors, our entire society will benefit immensely. The timing is ripe for some effective political action and motorist education.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Armstrong Effect posted by ron on 8/30/2001 at 5:49:45 PM
Never before have I heard a twelve or thirteen year old boy say, "Nice bike!" as I went by on one of my old road bikes--until, that is, Lance's third consecutive Tour win. My suspicion is that OLN's in-depth coverage of the event got the attention of a lot of people, young and old.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Armstrong Effect posted by Fred on 8/30/2001 at 5:55:12 PM
I see a substantial increase in bike traffic on my road and around town as well. Years past I would see a few kids ride by but virtually no road bikes. Now I see probably 20 a week, with a few women among them. Most are tricked out in the road duds and riding new bikes. About half of the bikes are serious wheels also. There is some interest lately in recumbants locally. Its a hoot to see the car drivers faces when a lounge chair on wheels goes by.
I was offered a new Cannondale for half price, ($700)at my favorite bike shop. My wife would have put me on short rations indeed if I came home with one so I passed on it. My little town is building a 2 1/2 mile rail-to-trail which will be a welcome asset for local bikers who don't want to brave the idiot drivers who think nothing of dusting one off with protruding side mirrors. I think we are seeing an increase in interest in our sport.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: The Armstrong Effect posted by Art on 8/30/2001 at 8:37:17 PM
I too have seen a good number of road bikes lately, although there will be many more out and about after the heat breaks. I see a lot of of modern road bikes ridden by men and women in full riding gear. They have such serious looks on their faces. I see a fare share of homeless guys riding beat up road bikes, handle bars turned up, and hauling trailers full of stuff. What I do see that surprises me is a whole bunch of riders, young, old, immigrant, riding full suspension aluminum mountain bikes, Huffy, Magna, Royce Union, which are sold locally at Costco for $150 and turn up in a few weeks at my LBS with bent rims, bent cranks, broken chains, and foulded derailleurs.
I've always had a good number of students into cycling, mostly bmx, freestyle and mountain bike racing. For the first time I'm seeing kids into road racing, riding treks and cannondales.

   cheap bikes posted by John E on 8/31/2001 at 6:33:19 AM
> Huffy, Magna, Royce Union, which are sold locally at Costco for $150 and turn up in a few weeks at my LBS with bent rims, bent cranks, broken chains, and fouled derailleurs

Yup, these particular bikes are junk, their components are remarkably unreliable and flimsy, and some of their buyers and riders are clueless.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Armstrong Effect posted by Keith on 8/31/2001 at 11:06:58 AM
Several young (20-something) riders have joined our local club within the past year. Interestingly, at least three of them who come to mind have taken advantage of the fact that good, vintage friction shift, lugged steel bikes are available cheap. They're not doing it because its retro, but simply because the bikes work. Kinda cool.

AGE / VALUE:   Miami Sun Tricycle posted by: Gary on 8/29/2001 at 2:18:39 PM
Sorry, I didn't finish that last post. This trike folds down.It looks like it is older and well used but still works fine. Would anyone know how old it might be and what it is worth.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Miami Sun Tricycle posted by Fred on 8/30/2001 at 6:02:51 PM
I had a decent Miami sun 5 speed until I sold it last year. It was a very well built ballooner with some nice features. The company must still be in business since I saw a few new trikes at the Ace hardware in Ellenton FL at that time. Try telephone information, you might reach them.

AGE / VALUE:   Miami un adult tricycle posted by: Gary on 8/29/2001 at 2:06:22 PM
I have a Miami Sun adult tricycle

AGE / VALUE:   Sunshine Bicycle posted by: Gary on 8/29/2001 at 1:37:39 PM
Has anyone heard of a bicycle by the name of Sunshine?
It has solid tires (Dayton Airo Pressureless 16x1.75)
It was manufactured by Sunshine Waterloo Company, Limited---Waterloo, Ontario----according to metal tag attached to it.
It is belt-driven rather than having a chain; also has a metal seat.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sunshine Bicycle posted by on 8/29/2001 at 5:43:45 PM
Usually when I hear of Sunshine, It's about baby carriages or prams. This is a childs bike. Try looking to contact somebody about a C.C.M. bicycle and ask about Sunshine and see what they say. C.C.M was Canada Cycle and Motor and they made bicycles. I don't know anything else to tell you except Sunshine is out of business today.

AGE / VALUE:   Humber posted by: Heather on 8/28/2001 at 7:49:44 PM
I have recently bought an old Humber ladies bicycle at a garage sale, and am searching for more info on its possible age and value. It was apparently bought in England somewhere around the time of the second world war. It's black, with the serial numuber 139986 H stamped on the seat post. It has the Humber plate on rear mudguard and on the frame under the handlebars. It has a leather saddle stamped Brooks Lady's B66 Model. A decal with Charles Cycles, 60 Regent St, Swindon appears on the top tube. It has thin metal brake handles, the rear brake operates from near the bottom of the rear wheel, and there is a lock mechanism near the top of the rear wheel, where a modern bicycle would have its brake mechanism; the lock works with a lever to engage it, and a push in key to unlock the bolt which shoots across inside the rim when engaged. There is a wicker basket on the front, with a fold down handle. I don't know the proper terms for many of the bike parts, so don't know if this is enough info for anyone to go on, but any ideas of appx age and value would be most appreciated. I bought the bike for an ornament, but would be interested to know if people do up these old bikes and actually ride them.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber posted by Cal on 8/29/2001 at 6:04:53 AM
That's an English Roadster. It sounds like it's got all of the good bits (rod brakes, etc). You may get a better response by posting your message under the English Roadster topic.

Hope this helps!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber posted by Cal on 8/29/2001 at 6:06:58 AM
That's an English Roadster. It sounds like it's got all of the good bits (rod brakes, etc). You may get a better response by posting your message under the English Roadster topic.

Hope this helps!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber posted by Cal on 8/29/2001 at 6:07:22 AM

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber posted by on 8/29/2001 at 5:50:20 PM
Heather, this is too nice for a (lawn?) ornament. Especailly given the fact it is a locking fork model, from wartime when these were really nice bikes. Please do not leave this outside. It is a rod brake model with a rear wheel locking mechanisim. People fix these up all the time and ride them and it is is a lovely riding bike. This was a good find. I'll bet this has the double blade fork. Probably the ladies Elf model I am dying to have. Is this light blue?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber posted by Heather on 8/30/2001 at 3:32:12 AM
Thanks for the info! I'll put a message on the English Roadster page as suggested. Christopher Robin2: the bike isn't blue - it's black with red pinstriping. I've found a term called a 'bifurcated front fork' on another website ... is that what you meant by a double blade fork? If so, that's what it has. It also has curious half-round covers attached to the rear mudguard that effectively cover the top half of the rear wheel on both sides. It seems to have been specially made, as it has slots for the rear wheel locking mechanism to fit through. Presumably this was to keep the ladies skirt from getting stuck in the spokes or muddy? I shall definitely not be putting this bike in the garden now! I can see myself flying along New Zealand streets on it once refurbished ...

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber posted by on 8/30/2001 at 1:16:49 PM
Ah, that's wonderful that you intend to ride it. Yes, you have the double bladed(bifrubicated fork) that's great. These half circle things are called "dress guards" either string passing through holes in the rear mudguard or vinal or plastic. The string types keep the skirt out of the rear wheel. The plastic or vinal keep out mud and water and the skirt too. Dress guards are not seen all that often and they are a nifty addition and they work. If you don't have your key a locksmith can make one up. Let us know if you need anything. New Zealand huh? thats wonderful.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn superior posted by: jack on 8/28/2001 at 2:57:00 PM
bike shop has a schwinn superior for sale never rode lugframe 531 steel every part campagnolo made in same room as the paramount 425.00 is this good price or what is it worth thanks

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn superior posted by Walter on 8/28/2001 at 4:22:21 PM
NOS 531? The better question is are you willing to pay that price? On the used market you could find a comparable frame for less but there is an attraction to NOS. You need to answer the question for yourself IMO.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn superior posted by Walter on 8/28/2001 at 5:37:35 PM
Rereading your post I might have missed something. Is it a complete Campy bike? In that case I'd say given the NOS status of the frame, go for it. I haven't even asked if it fits which is vitally important but since you're interested I'll assume it does. If the pats are NOS then I'd say go for it even if it doesn't fit as you have a piece of history there. Schwinn hasn't built bikes like that in a long time and seeing as how Schwinn seems destined to become a dep't store bike such a piece will be collectible.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn superior posted by on 8/28/2001 at 5:41:33 PM
Do it, enjoy it. You only live once!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn superior posted by Steven Spires on 8/29/2001 at 11:27:19 AM
Schwinn Superiors thru 1978 were filet brazed, not lugged. Any idea what year? What Campy componants? Brazed on kickstand?

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn superior posted by Brian L. on 8/29/2001 at 1:37:18 PM
I saw a Superior that was definitely lugged with Nervexish, but cruder, lugs. Mixed components, mostly GS. Owner said he got it at a garage sale for $10. Solid yellow with black transfers.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn superior posted by jack on 8/29/2001 at 2:22:30 PM
yes it my size no kick stand nuovo grand sport rear derailleur dont know know year guess 1981 no is 13438 thank for the help

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn superior posted by Steve on 8/29/2001 at 3:03:23 PM
A 531 lugged frame in your size would be between $600 to $1200 new. If it fits, and feels right, and you want it, the frame alone should be worth the price.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   schwinn superior posted by Eric Amlie on 8/29/2001 at 4:03:30 PM
Wow! Good guess on the year. According to the catalogs, this model was offered in '81 & '82. Sold for $850 in '81 and $881 in '82. Nice find!

MISC:   "Typical" bottom bracket life and maint. posted by: Robert on 8/28/2001 at 10:45:33 AM
I realize there are many variables here, but what is "typical" bottom bracket life? All of the bikes I own are low mile since I got them and reworked them. Would a couple thousand miles of non-rain riding be a good guess?

Should you tear down and regrease yearly if not sealed cartrige type?

How many miles do you who commute to work get before replacement is necessary?

   maintenance schedule posted by John E on 8/28/2001 at 4:01:33 PM
A very good question! I use a high-quality grease on a 5K mi (8K km) / 2-year schedule (whichever comes first) but I would be curious to hear from others. I would avoid rebuilding the BB more than once per year, because the removal-replacement cycle is hard on aluminum cranks.

   RE:maintenance schedule posted by Warren on 8/28/2001 at 7:50:05 PM
I've seen British steel cups/balls that haven't been opened in forty years clean up and run like the day they were made. Lotsa newer stuff never feels "right" from the day it's put in. Like all bearings, proper setup and adjustment, with good grease of course is going to determine the mileage. As soon as it gets a little play, no need to tear it down, snug it up and ride it again.

Of course there is the satisfaction of tearing it apart, cleaning it and putting it back together...there's no price on that.

   RE:MISC:    posted by Fred on 8/28/2001 at 8:59:33 PM
I went to MFBS(my favorite bike shop) yesterday looking for bearing shields for a pair of vintage Maillard hubs. The original shields had spots on them that wouldn't polish out. I had cleaned and put new grease in the front hub but the rear hub bearings had not been cleaned or greased. In the discussion I asked to see a new set of hubs to compare how smooth the bearings were compared to my old ones. The shop owner brought out a set of gorgeous, near vintagae, NOS Campy hubs. What a surprise! The new Campy's were not smooth at all compared to my refurbished front hub as well as the "dirty" rear hub. They felt like they had sand in them. I'm open to the argument that the Campy's could have gotten contaminated but probably not. If this is common, the first bearing maintenance should be done when we get any new bike. In addition to dirt in new bearings, I have seen new bikes with no grease in some bearings.

   RE:RE:MISC:    posted by Gary M. LeisureTime Cycles on 8/28/2001 at 9:26:29 PM
That "feel" is normal. those bearings and races are set correctly, it will wear in perfectly. when you put it in the fork and spin the rim it will roll fine. they roll the best after wearing in, and being regreased and reset slightly looser, you can feel it as you set your preload, to get the smoothest roll, with no slop. its still actually too loose as the load stretches the parts out, but they ride so nice set like that. what it amounts to is the load stretches the axle slightly and then its too loose.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:    posted by Fred on 8/29/2001 at 7:59:25 AM
Thanks for the education. I should have thought of that. When I was a working engineer I specified many precision, matched pair, Barden sealed bearings. They were as good as gold from the start but they cost a mint. I guess I got spoiled.

   RE:MISC:    posted by Keith on 8/29/2001 at 1:57:22 PM
My experience has been oppisite of Freds. Having owned, ridden and maintained about a dozen sets of Campy hubs, vintage and new, and they have all been extremely smooth. I also own Phil Wood and Mavic, and they are equal in quality to Campy. Campy went to great lengths to insure super close tolerances, to the point of sorting the bearings into matched sets. I've also owned and maintained two sets of Maillards, various Normandys, old and new Shimano, etc. I'd rank them like this (1) Excellent: Campy, Phil, Mavic, top-end Shimano (in about that order); (2) Good: mid-level Japanese, Schwinn, and English hubs; and (3) Poor: anything French, and low-end Japanese and Chinese. I think 2000 or 5000 miles are good target for repacking, but it all depends on conditions (like riding in the rain or salty slush) and how hard the equipment is being used. All bearings will wear, ovalize, and need to be replaced -- they're cheap, so don't bother to resue them. Spray some rust inhibitor (like Boeshield T-9) into the tubes and bb shell when you have it apart.

   RE:RE:MISC:    posted by Keith on 8/30/2001 at 6:32:34 AM
Well, okay, Mavic is French.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:    posted by Oscar on 8/30/2001 at 7:42:55 AM
How's Normandy? They're great-looking with polished, but it their French-ness show on the inside?

   Normandy axles posted by John E on 8/30/2001 at 11:40:56 AM
I have owned three sets of Normandy's top-of-the-line "Luxe Competition" hubs, which were standard equipment on the Peugeot PX-10 for many years. Perhaps it's just the ravages of age and distance, but I have had far more trouble with bent axles and pitted bearing cones in Normandy hubs than in Campys, SunTours, or Ofmegas.

   RE:Normandy axles posted by Keith on 8/31/2001 at 11:39:34 AM
That's my experience too, with both Nornmandy and Maillard. The races and cones seem to pit after a couple thousand miles, and yes, the rear axle will bend. I've never broken one, but I think Sheldon says something about Heliomatics breaking axles, but I'm not sure. My last set of mid-80s Maillards looked great from the outside -- high polish, very cool black script logo. Not so cool on the inside.

   RE:RE:Normandy axles posted by Lee on 8/31/2001 at 4:26:04 PM
I maintain several vintage French bikes and about the best you can do even with their top-of-the-line stuff is maintain it for casual show rides. I've had Simplex derailleurs actually explode on me...Sedis chains chew up Simplex derailleur cage pullie wheels...etc. Of course, I've had a lot of good luck with stuff too but after hearing you guys talk, I put it down to the fact that I'm only 137lbs and so I don't stress the stuff out...I guess...I dunno.

I know French stuff is a major pain in the a...that much is true, but...well, I love it all anyway. Don't ask me why.

   French components posted by John E on 8/31/2001 at 5:19:14 PM
I use SRAM chains, which I assume are still made in France by the remnants of the Sedis company, because I have heard too many Shimano chain horror stories. My 1980 Peugeot PKN-10 serves me reliably, but I have cheated by retrofitting it with SunTour shifters and Cyclone rear derailleur, a Shimano 600 front derailleur, Ofmega hubs, a Regina freewheel, a Sugino crankset, MKS Sylvan pedals, a Salsa stem, Shimano aero brake handles, and a Serfas ARC saddle. The only remaining original components are the Stronglight headset, the Simplex seatpost, and the [Italian] Galli sidepull calipers. The only other French component is the novel Zefal hps7 pump, which clicks when it reaches the user-selected pressure.

Although my weight is about the same as Lee's, I have broken various frames, cranks, axles, and hub flanges over the years.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Bradley, Road posted by: wyocoyote on 8/28/2001 at 12:10:18 AM
Any bodys heard of a Bradley frame? seems to be a nice steel frame with nice lugging, yet none of my fellow bike enthusiasts know its origins. seems fairly modern. The B insignia looking much like that from Balley's Gym.

AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn "World" posted by: Bill on 8/27/2001 at 8:03:53 PM
Just rescued a Schwinn "World" ten speed from going to the
dump. Has Suntour derailers and shifters. Serial number I
believe, which I found on the bottom of the crank housing
is GE841485. Any ideas on age or value of this bike? Thanks

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn posted by Skip Echert on 8/27/2001 at 9:37:53 PM
Hello Bill -
Can you tell us the model of the Suntour rear deraileur? If it is original, we can get a date from it (from the book "The Dancing Chain").

   head badge number posted by John E on 8/28/2001 at 6:27:10 AM
Thanks for the dumpster save, Bill. The "G" in the serial number tells me it was made by Giant, instead of Panasonic. Is it a 10-speed (1970s) or a 12-speed (1980s)? If there is a 4-digit number stamped on the head badge, the last digit is the last digit of the year of manufacture. Skip is right about the SunTour derailleur dating, although some models were produced over a several-year span.

   RE:head badge number posted by Bill on 8/29/2001 at 8:19:58 PM
Thanks to Skip and John for the replies! Further examination
of the Schwinn "World" reveals a head badge # 1448. Suntour derailer
model is "Accushift x2000" It is a ten speed.

   :head badge number posted by John E on 8/30/2001 at 6:17:58 AM
Based on the "1448" on the head tube and the "accushift" transmission, your frame was manufactured on the 144th calendar day of 1988.