This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: Vintage Lightweights

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh International posted by: Joseph Vella on 10/20/2002 at 4:38:31 AM
Any Idea on the value of a 1974 International (green with Campy NR)? It has some light rusting (probably could be steel wooled off). Almost all original except the seat and brake levers. I am thinking of using it as a commuter, but the gearing is too high and the handlebars too low. The bike is so cool I feel funny to replace the NR cranks/bb and possibly rear wheel/hub, etc.... Would I be better off selling it to someone who want's it original or should I chop it up with new parts?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh International posted by Mike Slater on 10/20/2002 at 3:02:16 PM
This is one I think I would keep intact. I beleive this was second in the raleigh line-up (70s??) right below the pro. You can always change the freewheel, chainrings and get a longer stem. But your right - too cool to part out.

   ††Raleigh International posted by John E on 10/21/2002 at 1:01:03 AM
I can think of equally good commuters, but none better. Your Campag cranks and derailleurs can easily accommodate a 41/26 or 42/26 low gear, which should be adequate for "normal" commuting. (I use a 14-speed 50-42/13-26 combination with 1982 NR derailleurs and an Ofmega NR-impostor crankset.)

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh International posted by Keith on 10/21/2002 at 2:10:28 PM
Light rusting = needs repainting = diminished value to fussy collectors. If you want the handlebars higher, get a Nitto Technimic stem -- they work very well (available atrivendellbicycles.com and I believe Harris Cyclery sheldonbrown.com). Rivendell also has some cool Ritchey double cranks with 46/34 chainrings. The Campy hubs your Inter'l came with are great -- don't give them up! You can get new 5-speed and compact 6-speed freewheels from many shops on the web. Also, as John suggests, Campy NR will easily handle a 26 on the rear, and I've set up two bikes (Paramount and Bottecchia Pro) with a 28, and the NR handles it without any truoble at all. I owned an International -- a '71, with no rust, but I let it go to buy something else. The ride is famous -- super samooth dure to the relaxed geometry -- slack angles, longish wheelbase, and longish chainstays. If you get a Ritchey 46/34 or similar crank, you'll need to lower the front derailleur so that the cage is 1-2mm above the 46. If you run a 28 rear with a Nouvo Record, you may need to back the droput adjustment bolts as far back as they'll go to get an appropriate chain gap (if the chain flutters in the 28, you need more gap). Lastly, get some Boeshield rust inhibitor and spray the inside of the frame. A classic! Ride it with pride!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh International posted by Keith on 10/21/2002 at 2:12:15 PM
P.S. -- just keep any original parts you decide not to use.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh International posted by Greg Pschaida on 10/27/2002 at 3:56:02 PM
What size is your International. If you're thinking of selling, what would you want for it? If so do you have any pictures you can relay? I would like to keep it original...
Greg P.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh International posted by Greg Pschaida on 10/27/2002 at 3:56:31 PM
What size is your International. If you're thinking of selling, what would you want for it? If so do you have any pictures you can relay? I would like to keep it original...
Greg P.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Western Wheel Works, Cresent Racer posted by: Andi on 10/19/2002 at 5:57:55 AM
I have a circa 1890's Cresent racer made by Western Wheel Works out of Chicago.Haven't been able to find out much about it.It's almost 100% complete.I think the chain is the only thing missing.It's in real good shape! Wooden wheels, fenders and peddels,cork grips.All the spokes are there and in good condition. Anyone having information on this bike or interested buyers,please email.

WANTED:   70's Spokes/Tires posted by: fred on 10/19/2002 at 3:05:27 AM
I'm looking for 1970's vintage spokes to build a pair of 36-hole, 3x or 4x wheels using small flange Dura Ace hubs and Fiamme Ergal rims. Also some good condition tubular tires of similar vintage.

Thanks in advance for any help.

   RE:WANTED:   70's Spokes/Tires posted by Steven on 10/20/2002 at 1:50:17 PM
The spokes needed for a cross 3 pattern should be either 299 or 300 mm for the front wheel and then 1 to 2 mm shorter for rear hub. The front hub should be 38 mm spacing and the rear hub should be 44.5 mm spacing.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Frame Geometry posted by: Gralyn on 10/18/2002 at 5:23:31 PM
I noticed something the other day - has to do with the geometery of my bike frames. I have a Lotus from early 80's - (actually, I bought it new in 83 and they told me it was an 82 model.....but everything on the bike seems more late 70's). Anyway, I was looking at the distance between the rear wheel and the seat tube. It's very close on this bike. I didn't measure it - but it's really close. Now, I would expect that it's really close for more racing-type bikes - and a lot farther away for more touring-type bikes. But, of all the other bikes I have....none of them have the rear wheel no where near as close as this one. I would have expected to see varying degrees of this distance throughout all the bikes I pick up.....but for the most part - they are all maintaining a good distance. Maybe it's not as common as I thought?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Frame Geometry posted by Oscar on 10/20/2002 at 5:17:15 AM
Most of the vintage road frames I see are sport touring models. I have a Gitane Tour de France with long horizontal dropouts. I can mount the wheel fairly close to the seat tube. Some racing models, like your Lotus, have the wheel so close that you can barely fit a finger between tire and tube.

Look at modern road bikes. Most of them have abandoned sports touring geometry in favor of racing models.

   ††Frame Geometry posted by John E on 10/21/2002 at 1:04:29 AM
"Look at modern road bikes. Most of them have abandoned sports touring geometry in favor of racing models."

This is one of the appeals of vintage road machines -- most of them offer a suberb balance of fun, speed, and practicality.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Frame Geometry posted by Keith on 10/21/2002 at 2:18:22 PM
I agree 100% on the observations about contemporary road bikes. They're designed and spec'd for 20-something racers to squeeze every possible bit of speed out of them. Comfort, stability, and versatility are not significant considerations. To get a more comfortable bike, today you have to go for a full-blown touring bike, or a cyclo-cross bike. Rivendell is an exception, of course.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:††† 1970 Jack Taylor tandem Cyclo derailleur posted by: Richard Katz on 10/18/2002 at 3:18:50 AM
I am restoring a 1970 J.T. tandem (serial #6066) and I need to disassemble and overhaul the rear derailleur. It is a 'Cyclo'model and looks like something I have never seen before. The cable 'circles' around the upper pulley and then travels through a long spring along the chainstay on its way up to the 'cyclo' shift lever brazed onto the downtube. It appears to 'circle' around this shifter as well. Is there any information out there on how to service this component and are replacement parts available? Any help appreciated

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:††† 1970 Jack Taylor tandem Cyclo derailleur posted by Warren on 10/19/2002 at 3:15:57 AM
I'm confused...that Cyclo derailleur sounds like the one I have on my early 50's CCM Club Racer. There should be a soldered "t" in the cable loop that pushes and pulls the cable to move the derailleur. I had no idea they were still available in 1970? How many cogs on that freewheel?

You've described how the mechanism works...is there something wrong? Parts are not easy to find but if you ask, you may receive.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:††† 1970 Jack Taylor tandem Cyclo derailleur posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 10/19/2002 at 2:57:12 PM
Richard, If you e- mail me your postal address, I can send out immediately a few pages of an phantom parts diagram and part name list. No instructions about overhauling the thing but a good start none the less.
this is free to you.
Tell me in the message what this is again.
I have this in my book!

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:††† 1970 Jack Taylor tandem Cyclo derailleur posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 10/19/2002 at 3:00:21 PM
I also have Jack taylor tandem information sheets and specs too. But only for some years so no guarentee that what I have covers your year machine.
e- mail!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:††† 1970 Jack Taylor tandem Cyclo derailleur posted by Ian on 10/21/2002 at 8:48:29 AM
The derailleur also sounds like the one on my 1937 Sun tandem and I am confident that it is original because I got it from the original owner. My one has just two cogs with a huge difference in the number of teeth, about 14 and 28 teeth from memory, but the Cyclo copes with the change no problem. I remember reading a little about the origins in "The Dancing Chain" but would love to hear more about them and also how to service them if anyone has that sort of info. Cheers, Ian.

AGE / VALUE:†††NEED ACVICE posted by: Kevin K on 10/17/2002 at 6:28:18 PM
Hi all. Today I stopped at this old guys house here in town to see what new bikes he's taken in lately. This guy buys and repairs bikes. Off to the side sat an old Falcon. School bus yellow. Sorta gaudy looking but in really great condition. I saw lots of chrome so I didn't think too much of it until I saw the Campy down tube shifters. Then the Campy derailleurs. Then the 3t stem. Chrome cottered cranks but with 52 and 50 chainrings. Campy pedals. The rear derailleur has bright red nuts on it like the Raleighs use but these are just a large " C ". The Campy hubs are laced to chrome Rigida rims. Weinmann centerpulls. No decals except for a 531 decal on the frame that reads plain guage. The bike would need nothing more than a days detailing/waxing to be a real show piece. What's a fair price to offer for it ? Thanks, Kevin K

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††NEED ACVICE posted by Keith on 10/17/2002 at 9:08:31 PM
Here's a similar (or same? I think the eBay has alloy rims?) bike on eBay that looks pretty clean. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1868595528 (Falcon w/Campy Velox) Watch the auction and see what it sells for. Compare condition and make adjustment downward if necessary (condition is huge). Not a high end bike, but not bad one either, and although the Campy stuff is stamped steel, IMO it will function better than the equivelant Simplex or Huret of that era, and will outlast the Suntour or Shimano.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††NEED ACVICE posted by Kevin K on 10/17/2002 at 10:03:59 PM
Hi Keith. Basically the same bikes though the one I'm considering is void of decals. Also $100 is my top dollar I'm willing to pay. So thanks loads for the good advice. Kevin K

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††NEED ACVICE posted by Oscar on 10/18/2002 at 4:10:19 AM
The chromed Valentinos look nice.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††NEED ACVICE posted by Keith on 10/18/2002 at 2:19:14 PM
I went back to look at it and the eBay model had tubies, which you gotta either love or hate.

   Totally Tubular posted by Oscar on 10/18/2002 at 11:20:27 PM
I save tubular tires for the track only. Otherwise, it's bad for my nerves wondering how screwed I'm going to be if I flat.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh Record posted by: Jonathan on 10/17/2002 at 2:15:04 PM
I have the opportunity to by a Raleigh Record in mint condition for $75 dollars. It is a 12 speed, 410 Hi Tensile steel frame Shimano Derailers w/index shifting, Araya wheels 27x1 1/4. Questions are: is this a good deal, when and where was this bike made, is the 410 frame durable? I will be using this bike as a back up. Thanks

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh Record posted by Ken on 10/17/2002 at 6:11:00 PM
Jonathan, if it's really mint it's probably about as much bike as you can hope for at the price, unless you stumble across an improbable bargain. But if it's mint, you should be able to find the country of origin... probably Taiwan, possibly assembled U.S. Components indicate 80's. The frame is durable, yes, but not light. I don't see this as an investment, but... if it feels good, ride it.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh Record posted by Keith on 10/17/2002 at 6:20:50 PM
I disagree -- in my opinion this is a common, near bottom of the line Raleigh, likely from Taiwan, given it's likely vintage based on components. For about $50 more you can pick up a similar vintage Trek 300 or 400 series bike with a Reynolds 531 or True Temper chromoly frame, better components, and 700c wheel, on eBay. I know because I've done it. This Raleigh will ride like a tank. Aim higher.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh Record posted by Keith on 10/17/2002 at 6:43:46 PM
Here are some examples of what I'm talking about:

Two nice Bianchis to watch, both with chromoly frames:



Two older Treks, to give you an idea, although I'd hold out for a more recent models with 700c wheels:



I have no relation to any of these sellers. Two years ago I bought a beautiful 1985 Trek 400 with a USA-made lugged Reynolds 531 mainframe, the rest was chromoly, early Shimano 6-speed index shifting, and nice 700c wheels. The total cost, with shipping, was about $125 (winning bid was $100). Good luck!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh Record posted by Mark on 10/17/2002 at 7:21:42 PM
I would have to agree with Keith on this one. While $75 sounds like a real bargain for a bit more you could score a bike that rides much better with components that function so much better as well. If interested, I was going to list on Ebay in the coming weeks a Univega Viva Sport 22.5 inch c-t with Chromoly Triple Butted tubes and a Mangalight fork with decent aluminum components. The bike is fairly clean with some light rust or pitting to some of the chrome on nuts, Q-release, but in no way is it a rust case. Light in mileage. If interested I can e-mail some photos. $110 + shipping. Also, a Stowe 55cm for $160 + shipping. In any case look at the bikes Keith pointed out that are now on ebay.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh Record posted by Keith on 10/17/2002 at 7:32:44 PM
Here are a few more to watch:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1868595528 (Falcon w/Campy Velox)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1869235525 (Torpado)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1869563644 (Vitali w/Campy Nouvo Record, no reserve)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1869189310 (Peugeot)

When I've searched eBay to actually buy a bike I've used my frame size as the key search term, hence, "58cm bike." Ask questions of the buyer -- is the frame straight? (Ask if they can ride the bike no hands without having to lean to one side.) Is there rust? (I agree with Mark that some rust on small bolts and nuts is generally not a problem. The worst problem IMHO is rust INSIDE the frame, and it's hard to get sellers to address that for obvious reasons. It takes a good inspection with the bottom bracket removed.) Are there dents in the frame? Are the wheels true? Etc. Univega is a well-respected mark (no pun intended on Mark).

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh Record posted by Gralyn on 10/18/2002 at 12:14:52 AM
I have a Raleigh Record. It's not mint...but I would say it's very,very good condition. I think it's mid-70's. I don't like the way it rides. I do like that it's as old as it is - and in the condition it's in. I have just hung onto it as part of my "colletion". But, since it really is the bottom of the line for Raleighs - and is not really collectible - I would sell it. But, I would want to get about $60 for it. For the most part - folks wouldn't pay that for it - but somebody may. It's a beautiful bike - with shinny chrome. I guess it really depends on what appeals to you - and how it rides. If I found something similar....and I liked the way it looked....and I liked the way it rode....I would pay a similar price.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh Record posted by Keith on 10/18/2002 at 2:23:02 PM
I understand what you're saying Graylyn, and I'd look at a 70s Record, made in Nottingham England, differently from a made in Taiwan 80s Record. I once got a near mint ladies Record for my wife. It was blue, and had all the nice shiny red "R" bolts on it, and had half-chrome front forks. I though it was stunning, but she never liked it (she prefers her '72 ladyies Schwinn Suburban, which weights at least 10 pounds more).

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Raleigh Record posted by Ken on 10/19/2002 at 6:58:55 PM
I think I misspoke myself. I was trying to discourage him too, I just wasn't plain about it... but check what I said. I would not personally offer $75 for a brand new Taiwan Raleigh, but I stand by my statement that if mint, it's about all the bike you can hope for for $75. Keith, I agree, add a little more dough and move up a lot. Or find one that doesn't look great and save $50.

FOR SALE:†††saddle for French road bicycle posted by: paul on 10/17/2002 at 2:14:07 AM
if you ride one of the fine French made road bicycles, you need this saddle. IDEALE single rail brown suede leather, note rails are NOT titanium. $60 buyer to pay postage, I'd rather mail within continental US. Thanks! sincerely, Paul

WANTED:†††Campy TBS, C-Record or Shimano 600, Dura Ace - Track Pedals w/ Clips posted by: kevin on 10/16/2002 at 6:21:49 PM

I am looking for a used pair of any of the following pedals. However to be clear, I need versions of these with clips, platform style... not clipless.

Shimano 600 (ex too)
Shimano Dura Ace
Campy C-Record
Campy TBS


VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Azuki posted by: Bob on 10/16/2002 at 12:15:20 PM
I recently pulled an Azuki out of a dumpster. Yellow with shimano Eagle drivtrain and Dia-comp brakes. Ser.# 76132. It's missing the seat and the rims need truing, other than that it seems to be in decent shape. Anybody know anything else about this? What kind of seat was on it?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Azuki posted by Ken on 10/17/2002 at 6:16:19 PM
See http://www.sheldonbrown.com/japan.html

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Azuki posted by Richard Katz on 10/18/2002 at 3:18:11 AM
Azuki made several models of '10 speeds' in the late '70's' They were well made and bombproof and reasonably priced. The seat was undoubtedly vinyl and generic. True up the wheels and ride it for another 30 years. It will outlast you.

AGE / VALUE:†††Cold Weather posted by: Keith on 10/15/2002 at 9:01:42 PM
I learned this from the late Ashley Molk, who led the cycling program for the Columbus Council of AYH in the early 1970s. He was a bright guy -- an engineer -- and he swore by it. He'd get to the starting points and say. "This is a [fill in the blank with a number ] sweater day." It works.


70° and above short sleeve shirt/jersey shorts

65° long sleeve shirt/jersey shorts

60° 1½ layers pants

55° 2 long sleeve layers pants

50° 2½ layers, long finger gloves pants

45° 3 layers, gloves, balaclava, wool socks pants

40° 3½ layers, etc. pants

35° 4 layers, etc., + 2 pr. socks pants + 1 pr. long underwear

30° 4½ layers, etc. + extra glove liners pants + 1 pr. long underwear

25° 5 layers, etc. + ear band (over balaclava) pants + 2 pr long underwear

20° 5½ layers, etc., + 3 pr. socks pants + 2 pr long underwear

15° 6 layers, etc. pants + 2 pr. long underwear

This works for me – may not for you.

1 layer = breathable long sleeve shirt, sweatshirt, cycling jersey, sweater, etc.

½ layer = breathable short sleeve shirt, cycling jersey, wool tee-shirt

If it's cold, the first two layers should be wool or polypropylene -- cotton is used, if at all, only in outer layers. Socks are also polypropylene or high wool content.

Non-breathable layers, such as nylon windbreakers, count as up to 3 layers. So, at 40°, you might get away with a nylon shell and a short sleeve jersey. I can't because I sweat too much.

The faster you ride, the less you wear.

If you aren't cold the first 5-10 minutes, you're very likely overdressed.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Cold Weather posted by Inkwolf on 10/16/2002 at 4:02:54 AM
Wow. You must live somewhere really warm to put on a long-sleeved shirt for 65 degree weather.

Here in frozen Wisconsin, we get out our T-shirts in spring, as soon as the weather hits 40 degrees. >:P

Biking clothes:
0-20--Two pairs pants, sweatshirt, undershirt, coat, warm gloves
20-40--sweat pants, sweatshirt, jacket, full-finger gloves
40-50--tee shirt, sweat pants, fingerless gloves
50-100--tee shirt, shorts
100+--ride naked

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Cold Weather posted by Keith on 10/16/2002 at 2:04:11 PM
Yeah, it's going to vary a lot person-to-person, and aclimation to the frozen tundra will reduce layers. The bottom line priciple is that you add 1 layer every 10 degrees colder it gets. Today it was 50 here and I rode to work in a short sleeve thin wool tee shirt and a flannel shirt over that, and was fine. I should add the layers can be pretty thin -- the thin wooly tees Rivendell sells are awesome, and, well, thin. At least try one -- most useful, comfortable biking garment I have. Wool rules -- I've tried most of the so-called miracle fabrics, and they're marketing hype -- emperor's new cloths if you will. The thin polypro underwear you can get at any department store is okay, and likewise counts as a layer, as would a regular-weight long sleeve jersey. Really heavy sweaters can equal 2 layers. I do club rides and commute throughout the winter here in central Ohio. We've had very mild wonters the last few years -- with lows only going to the teens and 20s -- so riding's been easy. Some riders hang up their bikes in the winter, and that's a shame. Most of the ones I ride with tend to follow the bike-catelog-endorsed method of a wind shell over a long sleeve jersey, and I see many end up getting pretty cold. Basically, I many of the folks I ride with avoid wearing anything that won't fit in their jersey pockets or tiny wedge seat bags -- racks and larger bags just don't look cool on a full-blown racing bike. Ha! Gimme a Carradice! I'd also add that I'm talking about rides of 15-50 miles in the winter. Shorter rides than that and it almost doesn't matter what you wear. With longer rides you'll pay for over- or under-dressing in a big way.

FOR SALE:†††huffy corvair posted by: robert on 10/15/2002 at 6:29:20 AM
the huffy corvair and the fuji sports12 i have them listed on ebay now, you can find it by my seller name bikezhop thankyou

AGE / VALUE:†††Philco New Lion posted by: Todd Hazard on 10/15/2002 at 2:37:32 AM
I'm new to this. Can anyone tell me what I've got. It says "New Lyon", all steel,renowned the world over, on the steering Head. The cross bar on the frame says, made by Philco. Stamped on the rear of the chain guard it says "Jarearm". The kick stand mounts on the rear axle and swings up and back behind the bike and is stamped "Kings". It has rod brakes, one speed, and 22" tires.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Philco New Lion posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 10/15/2002 at 3:38:25 PM
The 'renown the world over' is the Phillip's bicycle slogan. Philco made brakes and this was part of hugemongous Phillips Company from Birmingham, England. The 22 inch tires are strange to me as I have never seen or heard of this size. 22? Was this a typo on your part? just asking. Anyways this is a Phillips model. We would love to see pictures added of this bike of yours here in the picture database.
Where did yu find this? You can send in pictures here to oldroads.com find the address and mail in a set with a description.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Philco New Lion posted by Todd Hazard on 10/16/2002 at 1:00:59 AM
I double checked and it does have 22" tires, 22x1/38" to be exact. It looks to me to be a childs or youth bicycle. It will take me a few days to get it cleaned up and some pictures taken. The bike belongs to a friend who asked me to post it on Ebay for him, I am trying to figure out what it is and a ball park figure as to what it is worth. Also, can anyone give me any tips on shipping bicycles? Thanks.

MISC:Ofmega, and import prices posted by: Ken on 10/15/2002 at 1:15:22 AM
Is there a U.S. mail order source for Ofmega cranksets? I've searched without success. In the U.K., St John St Cycles offers an alloy 50-40-30 triple for the equivalent of $63.

AGE / VALUE:†††ATTENTION: RALEIGH RECORD ACE OWNERS posted by: humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 10/15/2002 at 12:28:50 AM
These are the real deal!
Mine are diffrent still, with more colors added to these. Both bikes have it slightly diffrent.
First auction I have see for these particular decals
Question that I know I will get not one answer about is:
What happened to the company and old inventory of the
H.E. Peace and Co. Ltd.?

No relation to seller, not my auction. I was delighted to see this auction and the Bantel mudguards and other things!