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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

MISC:   Cool frame on ebay - step-thru posted by: David on 5/2/2002 at 2:42:14 PM
(NMA) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1824581112
An old 531 "women's" NY-built frame, good condition. Not cheap.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Nishike Prestige posted by: darryl on 5/1/2002 at 10:05:32 PM
There is a Nishiki Prestige for sale at a local Pawn shop which I can get for about $15 - $20. My guess about 1985 vintage. Not original h-bars but rest looks original. Is it worth restoring or just for parts????

     Nishike Prestige posted by John E on 5/1/2002 at 11:12:32 PM
If "Prestige" refers to the frame tubing, it's definitely worth buying and riding, if it fits you. I would not put alot of money into prettying it up, however, because mass-produced Japanese frames are still not very popular with collectors, but prices ARE rising steadily.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Nishike Prestige posted by Tim Welsh on 5/1/2002 at 11:14:55 PM
I have rebuilt and updated a number of Nishiki frames - I have found that their road frames are especially nice, although I'm not sure about the 'Prestige'. My general approach has been to put newer components on their frames, which are high quality but not of any collectible value. I converted an early 80's Nishiki International (loaded touring, Tange d-b, lugged, lovely details) into a very nice commuter bike for my wife (straight bars, SIS with gear indicators, newer canti's), and she has stopped riding her newer KHS mountain bike completely she loves it so much. Anyway, that's my 2 cents worth.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Nishike Prestige posted by darryl on 5/2/2002 at 9:13:14 PM
Bought the above bike for $15. Prestige is the model, "Handcrafted By Kawamura" on frame also. Tubing is Infinity cro mo double butted Tange. Suntour Lepree ders.,Diacomp brakes, Araya 27X1 rims and Sansin hubs. Also a 12 speed. Any ideas on how to get a alloy seatpost out of the seat tube? Must be welded with corrosion.

AGE / VALUE:   Brev. posted by: inaugural on 5/1/2002 at 6:33:24 PM
I've got some bike parts that have Brev.Campagnolo, Brev.Gnutti,
Brev.Made in Italy. What does Brev. said for? The era, model,
Italian for expensive? Could someone help me out! Campy road
axles, Gnutti skewers, hubs made in Italy. Are they all made
by 1 company? Thanks in advance.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Brev. posted by Keith on 5/1/2002 at 7:27:00 PM
It stands for patent. I believe the french is Brevette. I don't know if there's an Italian word for the same thing also starting with "Brev" -- our admirably well-traveled and multi-lingual Stephen will provide the definitive answer! The Brev can be used to date Campy chainring bolts. Early 70s were "Patent." Don't know exact year it changed

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Brev. posted by inaugural on 5/1/2002 at 9:55:54 PM
Thanks for the thread Keith. That makes sense to me. Here I thought I had a small pot of gold!

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Brev. posted by Steven on 5/1/2002 at 10:39:50 PM
Brevet is the French for Patent. Brevettato is the Italian for Patented.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Brev. posted by inaugural on 5/2/2002 at 1:36:40 PM
Thanks Steven, for your input.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Brev. posted by Steven on 5/2/2002 at 2:24:47 PM
I don't mind giving a hand if you need translation help regarding bicycles from or to Italian, French, German, Dutch or Spanish.

   linguistic help posted by John E on 5/2/2002 at 3:12:30 PM
Thanks for the offer, Steven. Sheldon's English-French cycling glossary is pretty good, as well. It would be cool to see it expanded to cover Italian and German.

FOR SALE:   lambert posted by: AJ on 5/1/2002 at 12:03:32 AM
mint lambert for sale has aluminum fork,open to offers,NO KRATE OR STINGRAY trades

MISC:   e-bay posted by: Gralyn on 4/30/2002 at 7:51:23 PM
I wonder....if there's a way to do a search on e-bay as to EXCLUDE the Schwinn Krates and Raleigh Choppers? Like, I would like to browse about through all the bikes except those.

I did see a couple of interesting things on e-bay: A Raleigh Record...openning bid of $99.....buy it now for $300....something like that. It will be interesting to see what happens with that....a bottom-of-the-line Raleigh. Also, I believe I saw a Peugeot Grand Sport going for up over $100. And I think it was actual bids! Maybe I will hang onto my Raleigh Record LTD and my Peugoet Grand Sport a while longer. And to think I had originally started parting out the Peugeot. Maybe I will put them on e-bay some day.

   RE:MISC:   e-bay posted by Stacey on 4/30/2002 at 10:55:21 PM
Sure is, Gralyn... click on the "Search" tab at the top of any page... not the button next to the Keyword box, but on the second line almost dead center. There you will find a more powerful and customizable search feature AND if that's not enough they also have an "Advanced" version. Good luck!

In the wind,

   keyword exclusion posted by John E on 5/1/2002 at 2:17:13 PM
Another easy way to restrict a search is to use the - sign. For example, I often search for chainrings, but, having no interest in downhill or BMX, I type on the keyword line:
chainring*, -bmx, -downhill

   RE:keyword exclusion posted by Gralyn on 5/1/2002 at 2:24:23 PM

   RE:MISC:   e-bay posted by Keith on 5/1/2002 at 3:10:07 PM
I've found that including terms like "531" "Columbus" and "Campagnolo" (but not all three at once) gets you to the better vintage lightweight stuff.

   RE:RE:MISC:   e-bay posted by Steven on 5/1/2002 at 10:42:43 PM
It is not failsafe, but I use the word 'Vintage' under the bicycle only heading.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   e-bay posted by Art on 5/2/2002 at 4:31:19 AM
I search using words like Bluemels, Sturmey Archer, etc. I also find some interesting things to look at using old bike or old bicycle, rare bicycle (bike), antique bicycle (bike), road bicycle, English (or whatever country you want) bicycle. Using bicycle for one search and then bike for another gets me different things. Usually I don't get real big hits off of these words so I can scroll down and exclude the stuff I'm not interested in. Using advanced search I sometimes target a specific country...England, Australia. Some of these sellers won't ship out of country, but I usually just look anyway. I also check out the auctions of a bike seller and bookmark them. Then sometimes I just search through my list of sellers for newly listed stuff. I hardly ever buy anything but these searches educate me to what is out there and what people are paying for it.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Shimano 600 AX pedals posted by: Jacob on 4/30/2002 at 10:21:22 AM
Hello Friends!

I need your help:
I have a Shimano 600 AX equipped japanese frame and I need to adjust the bearing in the right-side pedal. How do I do this?

Jacob from Denmark

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Shimano 600 AX pedals posted by Gralyn on 4/30/2002 at 7:50:22 PM
I don't know - maybe from the dust cap end? Maybe someone here will know.

    Shimano 600 AX pedals posted by John E on 5/1/2002 at 2:20:30 PM
Assuming you have already removed the endcap, you may need a deep socket wrench to reach the bearing cone and locknut. When I sought a suitable tool at my LBS, I ended up buying a new set of Wellgo sealed-bearing pedals to tide me over until I can find the right tool to rebuild the Shimanos.

   RE: Shimano 600 AX pedals posted by Steven on 5/1/2002 at 11:00:18 PM
John, the AX pedals are different from any other pedals made in as much as they are the only ones that allow the foot to make perfect circles. Contrary to every other pedal around that I can think of, you do not have a spindle upon which the foot rests. Any standard pedal threads into the crank with a 9/16" thread, and has bearings at one or more places on the spindle. The spindle supports the pedal body and the foot. The AX pedals have the bearings completely on the crankside of the pedal body. The innermost bearing is built into the part of the pedal that is threaded into the crank. The hole in the crank is therefore considerably larger than 9/16". I believe it is something more than 1". The idea behind this design was to allow the pressure point of the foot to be at exactly the centre of the pedal hole in the crank. I never understood the advantage that this could give, but it was a masterful marketing ploy by Shimano. Our Danish friend therefore has no other choice but to either replace or repair his pedals. I have repacked some in the 80's but don't remember how. I believe if I had a set in my hands, I would be able to do it again. Were these pedals on the Raleigh that was recently sold on Ebay in Germany?

    Shimano 600 AX pedals posted by John E on 5/1/2002 at 11:34:05 PM
Weird! That's yet another evolutionary dead end I have never encountered. Thanks for the education, Steven.

   RE: Shimano 600 AX pedals posted by Steven on 5/2/2002 at 2:21:29 PM
To see what these pedals look like, take a gander at:

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Shimano 600 AX pedals posted by Keith on 5/2/2002 at 5:18:34 PM
I have a set of these, large diameter pedal threads and all, with clips and straps, and with the 600 AX cranks -- but the left crank arm is shot -- someone rode it hard for a very long time with the crank arm loose. Ouch! The pedals look great. But if someone wants the pedals or crank, contact me -- I'd be happy to trade. Right now I could use a nice rear hub, for 126 mm spacing, 36h, lf.

AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental, When did they start? posted by: Paul.G on 4/30/2002 at 12:45:56 AM
Ha, I just saw a very nice cond 1963 continental up on ebay #1098646134 & wondered when they started making the continental bike? I thought they were strickly 1970s & 1980s bikes? I had never seen a Continental from the 1960s before until now. Wow, thats a nice bike. Were can i get more info on the 60s continentals? I like the way they look.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:nice bike but no stingray posted by sting ray boy on 4/30/2002 at 1:24:04 AM
lightweight bikes are nothing. stingray bikes are worth more. all light road bikes are a joke. by a stingray an live

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:nice bike but no stingray posted by Kevin K on 4/30/2002 at 2:02:10 AM
Oh yes, Stingrays are fun but..................WATCH OUT ! The Day of The Lightweight is upon us. Lightweights are gaining both popularity and value. Remember collecting bikes builds appreciation for all types. Both bikes and people. By the way I was reading where one of the best bikes to do long distance wheelies on was the Schwinn Sprint built between 1974 and 1975. I'll have mine out this summer and let you know how I do. Enjoy !!!!!!!!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental, When did they start? posted by Kevin K on 4/30/2002 at 2:09:19 AM
Hi Paul. All Continentals up to possibly 1974 were very nice bikes in several ways. Tough USA built frames with mostly French made but Schwinn approved components. Check g sales and second hand stores. I passed on a 1966 Varsity Thursday for $20. Nice bike. Clean paint and decals.I think soon these early 60's Schwinn bikes are going to become nice pieces to own. Kevin K

   Schwinn Continental, When did they start? posted by Eric Amlie on 4/30/2002 at 12:56:01 PM
Schwinn has used the Continental name since at least the forties. These were mostly 3 speed bikes though (may have been 1 speed also, I don't know). The derailleur equipped Continental as we are more familiar with was introduced mid year 1960. It had a "suicide" shifter for the front derailleur which was a rod linked directly to the derailleur on the seat tube. You had to reach waaaay down there to shift the front chainwheels. Some time in 1961, for sure by 1962 they went to the more conventional cable connected lever mounted on the down tube as you see on this '63 model. By the way, I don't think this '63 is correct. I don't think the Sprint equipment made it's debut until 1964. Of course this could be a '64 bike using a '63 dated frame. That was quite common. The saddle should be a Lycett L15ST though. For '63 the gearing should be Huret 52/47 chainwheels giving a nice half step sequence. In '64 they changed to the Sprint 50/39 chainwheels giving what they called Alpine gearing (the 50/39 also made the 52/47/40 15 speed bikes obsolete which is why they disappeared after '64).

   RE:Schwinn Continental, When did they start? posted by Larry Stone on 4/30/2002 at 6:02:24 PM
Continental serial # J33xxxx Thats Oct of 63 & late in that year. bike is all orig, & Correct! True! Some Continentals came with the Lycett saddle, I have also seen many orig conti's come with the Sprint saddle. I also had a early 1963 Varsity come through with a Lycett. I bought this bike from the orig, owner. The bike is not only correct! But also orig, Beleive it. Schwinn floated different parts from year to year.

   Schwinn Continental posted by Eric Amlie on 4/30/2002 at 6:18:19 PM
Hi Larry, you always have such nice bikes and detail them so wonderfully. Don't mean to argue with you about originality. Just applying what I have learned so far. There is always more to learn though. This bike is done up as a '64. I've never figured out exactly when during the year Schwinn switched model years. I did have an old Schwinn dealer tell me that the serial number dates only the frame, not the bike itself. I'm curious about the brakes also. I couldn't see much detail in your pics. The '63s still had the quick release as a cam on the cable hangers with no q.r. provision on the levers. The '64s started the q.r. on the levers. They were a red "button" near the top of the lever. These were used in '64 & '65. A different lever was used in '66. I see that your bike has no q.r. on the front cable hanger. Do you have the "red button" levers?

   RE:Schwinn Continental posted by Larry Stone on 4/30/2002 at 8:27:56 PM
Hello Eric, When are you going to sell me that nice Superior you have? No Arguments here. I appreciate & respect your opinions! You know your bikes. Yes, This model does have the Red-dot levers & You're right, most of the components do lean toward the 64 model. When I removed the crank set for cleaning, I noticed that they were stamped 63 also. Handle bar stem is AVA & seat post bolt is AS. Brakes are Weinmann Vainqueur 999's! looks like a Late 63 frame got rolled out with early 64 components. Thanks for the detailing cudos! When I bought this bike from the elderly Gentleman in Alabama, the bike was super dirty with lots of grease on the components! He said it had been out in his shed for the last 30 + years away from sun & rain & weather! Just the way I love to find them, Dirty & dry. Grease keeps the rust away.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental, When did they start? posted by Ray on 4/30/2002 at 8:29:11 PM
I have to say I agree with Eric. I owned at least 3 1960 Continentals and still have one. They all had the Simplex suicide shifter for the front and the TDF for the rear. They were basically 10 speed bikes with Ideale saddles. I also just came into a 1948 Continental that is a 3 speed Sturmey Archer internal geared hub. The Continental name was used on lightweights since the 40s as Eric qouted. I have also seen mixed parts done usually by dealers or model year changeovers. I also have literature from Schwinn that shows the 1960 Conti's set up this way. I know that most of the 40s versions had upside down upright handlebars while the 60s had the more commonly known drop bars. Another comment to our Sting Ray phile. I own several Sting Rays, balloon bikes, lightweights and antiques. The Sting Rays in particular the Krate series are pretty bikes to look at but that is where it stops. I am 6' 3" tall and 180# and riding one of these is a challenge. They have an awful geometry, the springs bottom out and they understeer terribly. Not to mention that in a pinch they can double as a boat anchor because they weigh so much. Don't get me wrong they are collectible but if you had to do 25 miles on one you would soon appreciate a good lightweight. Yes the lightweights are really starting to take off and I have seen prices that make the Sting Rays look like bagain bikes. There is room for all types of collectors but I really like the history and mechanics behind the early lightweights. Also, I can find a Sting Ray or Krate on ebay every day of the week. When is the last time you saw a 1948 or any early Continental on ebay.

   RE:RE:Schwinn Continental posted by Maurice on 4/30/2002 at 11:04:35 PM
Larry just wanted to add
that I too have the French AVA stem on my 1967 Super Sport. I bought the bike from original owner and always thought the AVA stem may not have been original - but since other components of the bike were French made maybe it was.

   reactions to thread posted by John E on 5/1/2002 at 2:27:18 PM
1) Today's safety tip: Check sheldonbrown.com's discussion of French components, regarding the AVA "stems of death."
2) Classic lightweights, even those of the bike boom era, have been appreciating markedly during the last two years.
3) Alpine (1.5-step) gearing made 15-speed half-step-plus-grannie obsolete only at Schwinn. Trek flirted with h-s-p-g in the 1980s, and I currently run 48-45-34 / 13-23 on my Peugeot.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   columbus decals posted by: mark on 4/29/2002 at 10:22:09 PM
I recently purchased a frejus with nouvo record and universal brakes. Does any one know were the columbus tubing decal was on these bikes,it was missing when i bought it.Also the chrome has pitting from rust,how do get rid of it? The top tube has numerous scratches and chips,is it better to repaint it or are frejus bikes worth more with there original paint? The bike is from late 60`s to early 70`s thanks.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   columbus decals posted by Walter on 4/30/2002 at 12:51:50 AM
Generally on the seattube a few inches below the cluster where the seat stays attach. "Facing" forward.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   columbus decals posted by Steven on 4/30/2002 at 1:00:07 PM
Many, perhaps most, Italian and French bikes not meant for export, did not have any tubing decals until quite recently. The lack of a columbus decal does not necessarily mean anything on a Frejus. Another question is why are you so sure it is Columbus, why not Falck or some other maker of tubing?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   columbus decals posted by Keith on 4/30/2002 at 1:58:10 PM
I don't know of any way to fix pitted chrome other than re-chroming, which I wouild not recommend for your bike, because it costs more than it's worth to do, and unless it's done perfectly it won't last, and will even lead to more rust. Crumpled aluminum foil, Simachrome and other products will remove rust from chrome (but not pitting). I've read that Italian chrome tends to be inferior, but I don't believe it -- likely a brand-by-brand matter. Well-cared-for Campy chrome will last forever. My early 70s Bottechia Pro was well-ridden before I got it, and the chrome is quite clean. Frejus is a good name, but not one of the Holy Grails (Masi, prime year Cinelli, De Rosa, etc.), so if you'd like it better with fresh paint, I say go for it. Older Columbus and Reynolds decals were brittle, delicate, were not clear-coated, and generally just flake off on their own over time. I've watched this happen over the past 30 years to the Reynolds 531 decals on my Mercian, which I've kept waxed and clean -- all other decals on it are fine. The same is true for the Columbus decal on my '83 Lotus.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   columbus decals posted by Jim on 5/2/2002 at 6:47:45 PM
Was this the one at Rays?

FOR SALE:   Puch SLE 12 speed posted by: Bryant on 4/29/2002 at 5:50:42 PM
I have a friend who wants to sell his Puch SLE 12 speed because it is too small for him. It is a nice looking bike 531 Reynolds butted frame, 2500 fork tubes, 700x25 Weinmann rims with Maillard hubs, Huret derailleurs front and rear. He made some changes trying to get it to fit him but kept the original parts. If interested, contact me and I'll relay the info to him. I'll try to get pictures also.

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Puch SLE 12 speed posted by rickey on 4/29/2002 at 9:52:46 PM
i have a 27 in. puch odyssey 10 spd $75.00 plus shipping for tall guy's 334-756-7561

   RE:FOR SALE:   Puch SLE 12 speed posted by Warren on 4/29/2002 at 6:24:29 PM
So what size is it? And what part of the worls is the bike?

   RE:FOR SALE:   Puch SLE 12 speed posted by Bryant on 4/29/2002 at 7:13:58 PM
Oops!! the size looks to be 20 in. and is currently in Cecil County, Maryland. An hour north of Baltimore, and hour south of Philly.

WANTED:   Vetta rear rack trunk posted by: toyking on 4/29/2002 at 4:13:56 PM
I am looking for a Vetta trunk that attaches to the rear rack. I beleave this was a 80s items. E-mail with what you have. Thanks

   RE:WANTED:   Vetta rear rack trunk posted by Keith on 4/29/2002 at 5:02:42 PM
If you can't find Vetta JandD makes very nice rack trunks in different sizes.

MISC:   hike bike run posted by: rickey@knowlesbicycle334-756-7561 on 4/29/2002 at 3:49:47 PM

   Any So. Cal. Hetchins fans? posted by John E on 4/29/2002 at 7:51:34 PM
Saturday 10 May -- annual Hetchins Heaven swap meet, ride, and lunch in Fallbrook CA. I have a schedule conflict that morning, but I am tempted to give this one priority. Is anyone else on this board planning to go?

AGE / VALUE:   Alex Singer bike for sale posted by: Steven on 4/29/2002 at 2:40:35 PM
There is another interesting tandem for sale on internet: an Alex Singer from 1949. Again from Cyclo24 in Germany. I wonder where he finds all of these things?


    Alex Singer bike for sale posted by John E on 4/29/2002 at 7:48:18 PM
Cyclo24 is amazing! The other guy to watch is Hillary Stone of the U.K.

AGE / VALUE:   TAKING THE BIKE ALONG posted by: Kevin K on 4/29/2002 at 11:38:18 AM
Hi. My wife leaves for Germany on Thursday. She has considered taking her bike along. She does have a direct flight into Frankfort. If she does how should I prepare this bike so that it will survive the trip? Thanks, Kevin

   Taking a bike to Europe posted by Tom Findley on 4/29/2002 at 1:27:30 PM
This is rather late to tell about it, but KLM Royal Dutch Airways will take a bike for free. Other airlines will charge $75-$125 each way for the bike.
Go to the airport and find if the baggage packers sell bike boxes. Here in Atlanta, they cost $15. If they don't have any, get a bike box from a bike shop.

Take a tool kit along.
Remove the seat and pedals.
Loosen the handlebars and turn them sideways.
Deflate the tires.
Wrap the loose parts with tape and tape them to the wheels.
Put the bike in the box, and you're ready.
When coming back, you will need another box for the trip. They sell them in Europe, too.

The KLM clerks looked distressed when they saw the Black Phantom weighing in at 68 lbs.:


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   TAKING THE BIKE ALONG posted by Warren on 4/29/2002 at 1:42:32 PM
It depends on the value of the bike and the risk you are willing to take. Many high end shops that cater to touring will rent you protective high-end bike boxes. Personally, I have twice flown to Europe (once thru Frankfurt) and I have used regular bike boxes. If you go the cheap route, get the biggest size of box you can. If you can, go to a store that sells Cannondale touring bikes and specifically request one of those boxes. They are (were) better quality than most and a larger size. Mountain bike boxes are smaller.

I pull the bars/stem out, leaving the cabling attached and swing it down around the top tube (road bike with drop bars.). The pedals come off and go into a bag, with tools and spares and small parts. The front wheel comes off and the skewers come out. The wheel should slide down beside the bike. The seat and post come out. The air comes out of the tires (take a pump) After I have it all packed in...I use bubble wrap to protect any vulnerable areas, especially between parts that make contact. Then I fill the void areas with more bubble wrap. Seal it up and use shipping to tape to close the box and reinforce the whole box wrapping it in multiple directions. I used a whole roll on the box...tape is cheap. If you use a manufacturers bike box from a store...make sure you mask off all incidental names and addresses! Make it completely generic. Then relabel the box with your name/address and flight info with destination. This is important in case the airline label goes AWOL. The final trick I use is to take two old inner tubes...you can double them up and stretch them very tight over two ends of the box, about 10 inches in. This gives good security and two great handling straps for you and the airport gorillas to pick up and handle your bike with some ease.

I wish I had the time to tour again...

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   TAKING THE BIKE ALONG posted by Steven on 4/29/2002 at 2:32:19 PM
I have made over 20 ocean crossings with bicycles and am sorry to say that I fully disagree with everything written above. For international travel, you are generally permitted two pieces of luggage, one of which can be a bicycle. This is not only with KLM, it is with virtually any airline (in business class, 3 pieces.) Speak to your travel agent about this (My sister is a travel agent and she always gets me better prices than those I find on the internet) Instead of boxing a bike, I always pack it in a clear plastic bag that most airlines have available. I believe they cost about $5, but I am still using one that I picked up many years ago. By boxing a bike, the luggage handlers treat it like a box and will invariably pile loads of suitcases on top of it. It in fact makes for a great base to pack suitcases into the luggage compartment. Most boxes will not withstand such abuse and your bike will arrive damaged. In a bag, the bike is not uniform and will not allow them to easily pack other things on top, furthermore, they can see it is a bike and will treat it with respect. Your bike therefore arrives whole and if the plastic is thick enough gauge, undamaged. With regards to deflating the tires, you should not deflate them more than 20 psi from where they usually are maintained when riding. This will allow them to expand sufficiently under lower luggage compartment pressure (it should nonetheless be pressurized) without exploding. This will also allow you to ride away from the airport in the case of need. In an aside, when leaving the Frankfurt airport, you can hook into some great bicycle paths in the Stadtwald, less than a mile away from the terminal, just follow the signs to the steigenberger airport hotel. In a bag, you can also leave the wheels in which protects the stays and the forks from being compressed. The handle bars just need to be turned sideways and locked into position, not removed. The saddle can also be left. I remove the pedals, spare, pump and any other accessories and carry them in my carry-on. I have yet to have any damage to any bike. I have carried my Bob Jackson tandem, my De Rosa singles and numerous others this way. If you do not have a direct non-stop flight, the box is however best because of possible theft at the connecting airport (not your case). Enjoy the ride.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   TAKING THE BIKE ALONG posted by Warren on 4/29/2002 at 6:40:33 PM
You don't have to be sorry Steven :·) The carrier I was with (Air Canada I think) would not take responsibility for damages unless it was boxed. Anyway, to each their own...I know a number of people who have travelled by air...always with their bikes boxed. Also, thieves don't just steal from indirect flights...a have a friend who is a baggage handler at Pearson International in Toronto and he has some stories...Can you say "load shift"?

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot Grand Sport posted by: Gralyn on 4/29/2002 at 3:08:57 AM
I posted a week or so ago about a Peugeot Grand Sport I picked up - actually, just for the wheels. It had a neat-looking set of rigida rims with normandy high-flange hubs. I thought the wheels would look cool on my Hercules fixed-gear bike. It also had a set of neat looking italian bars and stem - whick I put on another fixed-gear bike of mine.
The Peugeot was probably a 1980 model - a crappy looking brown color. Well, just for the heck of it - I decided to build it back into a bike again. I had an extra set of wheels, some tires, bars, tape, etc. I put a 6-speed cassette on it - I actually got the Simplex deur to go through all the gears with a little adjusting. I cleaned it up and polished it a bit. It turns out that the bike was black - not brown (that's how dirty it was). So, I rode it a little this weekend - it actually rides really well - and once again - another bike - with a unique feel of it's own. I actually liked riding it.

     Peugeot ride quality posted by John E on 4/29/2002 at 4:05:42 AM
With aluminum rims and cranks and a Campy rear derailleur, my basic old Peugeot UO-8 became a surprisingly adept steed, which I strongly preferred over the then-20-year-old Nishiki Competition frame I had just cracked. My only gripe with the UO-8 was its painfully slow steering response, but I could always count on it for a smooth, stable ride. I do prefer the somewhat tighter, but still pretty conservative, geometry of my 1980 PKN-10.

AGE / VALUE:   Dawes Galaxy frame posted by: Mike Slater on 4/27/2002 at 9:45:32 PM
FREE to good home! Dawes Galaxy bare frame and fork. Appears straight with the usual scratches.
Seat post - 51 c-c
top post - 56 c-c
120 rear spacing
had 27" tires on it
You pay shipping!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dawes Galaxy frame posted by Mike Slater on 4/28/2002 at 3:58:10 PM
The Dawes is spoken for. I know this should of gone in the classified section, but I wanted to give contributors to this group a "first shot". If no one minds, I'll continue this practice on a very occasional basis.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dawes Galaxy frame posted by Oscar on 4/29/2002 at 4:28:06 AM
Keep 'em coming.