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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   stripped hanger posted by: Ron on 6/25/2002 at 3:18:04 AM
I stripped my hanger while removing the rear derailleur when the dropout was bent.D o I have to go back to running Simplex or can I rig it to continue using Suntour? No cheesy adapters please.

AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Sport posted by: Dan on 6/24/2002 at 2:14:02 PM
On my way home from work I noticed a Raliegh Sport 3spd parked near the road with a sale sign on it, $20(US) was the asking price a good one? My guess on a year would be 70's- 80's model, it's in somewhat weathered condition

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Sport posted by Don on 6/26/2002 at 2:49:59 AM
$20.00 seems OK. In Portland Oregon, I had a black Sports: Commuted to & from college & work from 1980 to 1984. It had a nice Brooks B66 saddle & a rack. Paid $35 used in 1980 & sold it for the same amount 5 years later. Wish I still had it!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Sport posted by Mike Slater on 6/24/2002 at 3:51:52 PM
If its in OK condition, has a Sturmey Archer hub and fits you...then yes! $20 is a good deal.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Sport posted by Dan on 6/24/2002 at 4:57:08 PM
The frame appears to be a 25 inch, I need a 22 or 23. I may just swap the parts over to my 63' Western Flyer Lightweight frame made by Raleigh, now there's an idea !

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Sport posted by Keith on 6/24/2002 at 9:06:12 PM
The English Roadster folks at this site will fill you in. The Sports was a basic utilitarian 3-speed, and in my opinion, probably the best city bike ever made. It was not the most deluxe model -- the next model up was the Superbe, which came with a Dynohub generator, locking front fork, and other fun goodies. Built to last and be low-maintenance, they're pretty heavy. It sold for $79.95 in 1972. Sheldon Brown at sheldon.brown.com has great articles about them. Go to the site, click on "Harris Cyclery" and follow the links to English 3-speeds. If it's in nice shape it's worth $20 from the standpoint that it's cheap transportation. The date will be on the SA hub -- anything after 1970 or so is not really rare or collectable - the only bikes worth anything serious are much older models with full chaincase and rod-activated stirup brakes. They were imported to the U.S. by the millions.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Sport posted by Mark R. on 6/26/2002 at 5:18:22 PM
Go get it. It'll wind up being your favorite daily rider.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot - simplex derailleurs posted by: Dan on 6/23/2002 at 8:58:07 PM
I have a early '70's UO-8. Over the years, I've replaced the crankset, wheels, handlebars with alloy and it's fun to ride. Now the plastic-bodied Simplex rear derailleur is worn out. I want to keep the shift levers. What is available as a replacement derailleur with minimum alteration and adjustment? Brand, model #, where to buy? Thanks

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot - simplex derailleurs posted by Dan on 6/25/2002 at 6:03:19 AM
My bike has an adapter claw (?) inserted in the dropout (meaning axle capture?) that the Prestige mounted to. I obviously am unsure of terminology! The ebay simplex appears to require a different bolt/nut configuration. Still looking...

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot - simplex derailleurs posted by smg on 6/24/2002 at 6:45:02 PM
You might want to have a look at eBay #2114570694 (not mine). It appears to be a Simplex "Criterium" model, which I recall worked very well - much better than the "Prestige". You would have to find a mounting plate in order to use it on your UO-8 frame, which probably has plain dropouts.

MISC:   Wood rims posted by: Keith on 6/21/2002 at 4:32:34 PM
Something you don't see every day: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1836509731

   RE:MISC:   Wood rims posted by rickey@knowles bicycle shop on 6/21/2002 at 11:35:29 PM

   RE:RE:MISC:   Wood rims posted by Art on 6/22/2002 at 5:28:49 AM
While you're at it, check these out

AGE / VALUE:   Huffy posted by: Vicky on 6/20/2002 at 10:02:39 PM
I have a huffy, men's not sure of the year. It has headlights, a button on the right side to turn it on and a little white button on the left, I think it might be for a horn or bell? Any one have any info on this bike or what it might be worth? TIA

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Huffy posted by Vicky on 6/21/2002 at 1:42:08 AM
I got a little bit more info on the bike. It is a Huffy Silver Jet men's Tire size 26x1.75 brakes in pedals (serial # 2H46 37)? I hope someone can help. TIA

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Huffy posted by smg on 6/21/2002 at 5:56:15 PM
You might want to post this on the "Balloon Tire & Middleweight" site as well.

MISC:   Brake hood installation posted by: Tony on 6/20/2002 at 1:35:48 PM
Anyone know the correct way to install new brake hoods on campy SR levers? I don't want to tear them after shelling out $$$ for NOS hoods. Thanks in advance, Tony

   RE:MISC:   Brake hood installation posted by Keith on 6/20/2002 at 3:16:59 PM
Soapy water works for me. IMHO it's best to remove the lever body from the handlbar, and carefully push it on from the back of the lever body, rather than over the lever itself. As Grant Petersen says, like a snake swallowing a baby pig.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Brake hood installation posted by Kevin K on 6/20/2002 at 5:18:34 PM
Hi. I agree with that and have gone one further. Use dishwashing soap directly on the alloy part. Coat it well. Warm the new hoods under warm/hot water, coat with soap and have at it. Should go very smoothly. Kevin

   RE:MISC:   Brake hood installation posted by Ray on 6/20/2002 at 8:47:50 PM
I really do not care for the soapy treatment. That stuff can dry under the hood and next time it rains your hands will not be so secure on the levers. I have also seen soap contribute to fungus growth and plastic/rubber deterioration. I have used a very thin coat of WD-40 placed on with my finger. The WD evaporates over time and does not harm the lever or hood that is already set up for a greasy environment. I agree with the method suggested for application but not the goo.

   RE:MISC:   Brake hood installation posted by Chuck Schmidt on 6/21/2002 at 4:08:48 AM
ATTENTION: Pushing hoods on from the back of the lever body runs the risk of tearing on the sharp corners (four) of the back of the body.

Here's my method _guaranteed_ not to tear those megabuck Campagnolo gum hoods with the sunray logo. Loosen the set screw and push out the pivot pin and then remove the lever (watch for those plastic bushings; two for each lever). Now slide the hood on from the front (very easy to do from the narrow front end) and pull all the way on and past the back edge so you clear the pivot pin hole in the body. Now reassemble and then slide the hood forward to its final position.

Use the lubricant of your choice for sliding the hood around the body. I like rubbing alcohol; slippery, evaporates fast and leaves no residue so your hoods down slide around as your climbing out of the saddle.

Chuck Schmidt
South Pasadena, Southern California

   RE:MISC:   Brake hood installation posted by Chuck Schmidt on 6/21/2002 at 4:14:54 AM
One other thing before I forget...

Sometimes you can save a torn hood with Super Glue. It's always worth a try before you give up and get new hoods!

Chuck Schmidt
South Pasadena, Southern California
http://www.velo-retro.com (T-shirts, Reprints and Campagnolo Timeline)

   RE:RE:MISC:   Brake hood installation posted by Kevin K on 6/21/2002 at 11:27:24 AM
Hi all. Well more input. WD-40 is solvent based. Solvents lead to the break down of rubber based materials. I found this out the hard way on a 64 Vette I owned a few years back. I understand the concerns on the soap. I use an earth friendly, organic based soap so it is compatible with the rubber/gum material. When I'm done I wash out the soap by holding the brake assembly under running water and flush out all soap residue. Dry with compressed air. Never had one bit of a problem. Thanks for the tip on repairing torn hoods too. Kevin K

   THANKS!!!! posted by Tony on 6/21/2002 at 2:38:42 PM
Thanks everyone for your help, the hoods are on, no tears either!

   RE:MISC:   Brake hood installation posted by Warren on 6/24/2002 at 9:41:09 AM
I've used hair spray on hoods and handgrips for years. It is slippery when wet, then dries sticky. Haven't had any reactions with gum hoods.
I have had a bad experience with hot (too hot?) water and old (but usable) hoods. The rubber went a milky colour and remained a different colour when it cooled. Anyone else experienced this?
Warren (Australia)

AGE / VALUE:   DIRECT DRIVE posted by: freeespirit on 6/20/2002 at 3:39:08 AM
Today while channel surfing, I saw on a television talk show (Sally), thay had a antique roadshow type takeoff with a interesting bicycle. A direct drive (BMW drive ?) German or Austrian bike, with upright or tourist type bars. The estimator said it was worth around $500 and not many were imported to the US. Has anyone seen or had a bike like this. It really had a nice clean, simple retro look to it.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   DIRECT DRIVE posted by David on 6/20/2002 at 8:05:34 PM
I assume you mean shaft drive. THere have been a few on ebay and I think I've seen one in the Smithsonian's vehicle collection.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   age and value posted by: Ollie on 6/20/2002 at 2:07:30 AM
I just aquired a Peugeot "Grand Spirit" male model. On the bottom of the fram is the number 123 and thenSer# 1389465 UE8M 57. Also has a Peugeot sticker showing 103 (in Orangelettering) The bike is Silver with chrome fenders and a workig generator. Tires indicate 28-630 (27 x 1 1/4 FIFTY) and they look original. On the seat tube it states: Record Du Monde. Easy off lug removel on front tire Overall condition of this bike is very good to excellent. I am interested in finding out what year this was made and the approximate value (if Know). Many thanks to you readers

   Peugeot posted by John E on 6/20/2002 at 7:52:36 PM
You have a bottom-of-the-line successor to the AO-8 (wingnuts on both wheels) and UO-8 (quick-release on both wheels). "103" is ordinary carbon steel, and "Record Du Monde" has appeared on lots of Peugeots over the years. Unfortunately, collector appeal is minimal -- the boys with the big bucks apparently will not look at any Peugeot other than a top-of-the-line PX-10.

AGE / VALUE:   Specialized Sequoia posted by: Tim on 6/19/2002 at 8:04:23 PM
Hello bik-o-philes. My most recent back alley find was a stripped down Specialized Sequoia frame. It is a lugged & nicely built Japanese road frame. Much about it reminds me of my 1983(??) Stumpjumper. It has the same generic 'Double Butted CroMo' decals. The few bits left on it are good quality (headset bearing, stem, bars). Nice paint too.

Unfortunately, once I got it home and looked at it more closely, I saw the tell-tale paint ripples on the down-tube that indicate a front-end crash. I have several questions. First, does anyone know about old Specialized road bikes? Also, I know the frame should not be used after such a crash (too bad, nice bike), but what about the forks if they look straight?

Thanks for any feedback.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Specialized Sequoia posted by Warren on 6/20/2002 at 4:13:50 PM
There were a few amazing hand built Specialized Allez's...I believe they were custom made by Brian Baylis. The rest are good solid bikes but yours is pretty much toast. It may track OK when it's built up...but not likely. Too much of a liability to me.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Specialized Sequoia posted by Warren on 6/23/2002 at 8:52:00 PM
I'm dead wrong (again). The top of the line Allezs were made by a master builder from 3-Rensho. I think his name is Yoshi and he still makes top frames. I was corrected on the CR list.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ebay outing: Fuji Newest posted by: Scott on 6/19/2002 at 4:08:13 PM
My 1977 Fuji Newest is up on ebay. Completely restored with NOS Suntour and Sugino parts it is a beauty. Search under'Fuji' and take a look. It has been a loyal friend but I have to let it go.

MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by: Rob on 6/18/2002 at 5:55:22 PM
I'm just curious...I saw a Schwinn Varsity for $18CDN($12US). Schwinn's are not unusual in Vancouver...though they aren't abundant...This one is a rather scratched woman's frame...a brown color...10-speed; all the components are "Schwinn Approved", though the side pulls look like fairly nice Dia Compes; Ashtabula crank; long stem shifters with a big embossed "S"; upright steel handle bars; steel rims, rather pitted, with the words, "Schwinn Tubular" and a designation something like "5 or S" hyphen "3 or 0". The head badge says "Schwinn Chicago". Though the bike is old and a bit scratched, it sure looks strong and solid.

Any 'Schwinnophiles' want to comment?

   RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by gmarten@hotmail.com on 6/18/2002 at 8:10:33 PM
A '65 Schwinn Varsity Touring (upright handlebars recently sold on eBay for $200.00. But this bike was at the other end of the spectrum, looked like it just came out of the box! You are correct, the Schwinn Approved brakes at that time were Dia-Compe. Twelve, er... eightteen CDN isn't a bad price to pay for a good rugged bike like this, especially if it fits and you don't mind the fix up work.

   RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by Bryant on 6/18/2002 at 8:21:35 PM
The Varsity is a tank. Very hard to hurt. I have a 1972 Varsity as a beater bike and it is fun to ride, except uphill. $12 is a fair price. I get mine for about $15 and spend about $10 fixing them up. They are easy to fix, and the components are fairly easy to get. Have fun with it.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by Wings on 6/19/2002 at 6:45:10 AM
My Varsity was my first introduction to 10 speeds. It went through college, grad school, riding with the kids, traveled to other states on vacations. Yes it is a tank and it takes the abuse! Mine just kept going and going. It may have 27 inch rims and take 27x 1/4 tires -- it is a little hard to get them on but I have seen bike shops spray some wax (polish) on the rims and then the tires slip right on. Great transportation bike.

   RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by Tom Findley on 6/19/2002 at 11:13:03 AM
Buy it, and keep it around for spare parts. Of course, this means you will have to buy a boy's bike to ride.

   RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by Keith on 6/19/2002 at 3:54:14 PM
The Varsity is a fun and interesting bike, even if it's not a lightweight. It's certainly stood the test of time, as I continue to see people riding them, especially in the city. My son has a Varsity with upright bars as a beater bike, and my wife rides a '72 Suburban -- close cousin to the V. They're bombproof, as I saw when my wife's Suburban caught a branch in the rear wheel , breaking 3 spokes -- the heavy duty Schwinn tubuler steel rim didn't even go out of true. Try that with your 32-spoke MA-40 wheel! I have a nearly new garage sale '73 Varsity tucked away in the event everyone decides they're really valuable. Maybe some day I'll try it on a century -- just for fun.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by Steven on 6/19/2002 at 4:51:55 PM
Steel rims are not 'stronger' than alloy rims, they simply function in a different way. Why can you not inflate a tire to 120 psi on a stel rim? The answer is that the rim cannot handle the stress. An alloy rim on the other hand usually can. In my younger days, I used to bunnyhop double streetcar tracks at speed (about 12 feet) without ever damaging an alloy rim. This was because my wheels were properly built and the contact between the road and tire was in accordance with foreseen stresses for such a wheel. A steel wheel, no matter how it is built cannot do this. On the other hand, a steel wheel is indeed much better able to maintain its decidedly inferior everyday performance under non-optimal conditions like those you describe. The same goes for underinflated tires, hitting curbs and many other 'abusive' forces.

   RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by Keith on 6/19/2002 at 5:40:58 PM
Please note, for the record, that I never said steel rims are stronger. And of course the generic term "strength" is ambiguous -- do you mean ability to vertical forces (as in your curb example) or lateral forces (as in some crashes)? Tensile strength? Elastic modulus? Longevity? Certainly, the set of wheels I have that are likely most resistent to vertical stress are deep aero rims -- but break one of the 20 spokes and it's way out of true. I recently "wore out" a set of wheels with lightweight Araya rims, after about 10,000 or so miles. I didn't build them, but they stayed true until right up until the point they began to crack around the eyelets. Anyway, a properly-built wheel with a lightweight aluminim rim will have high tension. Add to this that many lightweight bikes have close clearances for wheel/tires. Break some spokes, and the rim goes out of true, and you might not be able to ride home -- pretty unremarkable (and of course there are ways of fixing things on the road to at least get you back home). So I stand by my story above -- it's entirely accurate. I'm curious as to the basis for your claim that a steel rim couldn't handle 120 psi. I believe that is probably only because no one has tried to make high quality steel rims since the British made stainless steel rims for higher-end club bikes of the 1950s -- and to my knowledge none have been made beaded or "crotched" as modern rims are. Maybe a steel rim would have to be heavier, but nothing about the properties of steel would make it impossible.

   Steel rims posted by Steven on 6/20/2002 at 3:46:27 AM
Back in the 80's I asked the then sole remaining maker of stainless rims if they could make a 'hooked' rim. The Dutch company that I cannot recall the name of said that they and proabably all steel rim manufacturers had attempted to do so, but were then unable to do so using standard industrial processes. Without such a hook to anchor the bead, the tires will not hold.

   RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by Keith on 6/20/2002 at 2:44:44 PM
I understand the Schwinn tubular rims were formed by pressing, well, tubular steel to the desired rim shape. By comparison, modern aluminum rims are extruded (like you old play-doh fun factory) which makes it very easy to form the hook bead for higher pressure tires. The Schwinn tubular rims weren't bombproof because they were steel, rather, because they were HEAVY steel. Schwinn's choice of such rims for the Varsity and similar models merely reflects the in-house manufacturing process that was already in place. From a more general perspective, I look at the Varsity with mixed feelings. As a kid, I couldn't wait to get rid of mine for a much lighter European bike. Folks who belonged to bike clubs and rode a lot generally maligned the Varsity. But then, the Varsity was hugely successful for Schwinn. It filled the niche of a heavy, durable bike for 10-15 year old American kids who really weren't going to ride farther than the local store or a friend's house, but wanted a ten-speed that looked superficially like a racing bike because that was popular. And some people DID take them on long rides. The cover of the book "Mighty TOSRV" about the Tour of the Scioto River Valley, shows a young man huffing up a hill on a Continental during the ride in the 70s.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Schwinn Varsity posted by smg on 6/20/2002 at 4:57:56 PM
The Varsity's image problem stemmed from the fact that it was really a roadster disguised to look like a racer. Within its limitations it was an excellent design. Schwinn's problem was that they didn't have a parallel low-cost lightweight to offer to the less-adolescent market as a starter "10-speed" - not till the LeTour of 1973, as I recall. They thus abandoned that critical market segment to Peugeot, Raleigh, etc.

   Schwinn product line missing link posted by John E on 6/20/2002 at 7:59:43 PM
Smg is right. When I shopped for a new mid-priced road bike in March 1971, I did not even look at Schwinn -- the Varsinentals were too heavy, and the Paramount was beyond my "starving UCLA student" budget. Instead, I considered the Peugeot UO-8 and Raleigh Super Course, before settling on an American Eagle [Nishiki] Semi-Pro [Competition]. The Continental outweighed the other three options by 5kg.

AGE / VALUE:    posted by: wes on 6/17/2002 at 11:01:10 PM
i went on a little back road drive from home in oklahome to
a little town in texas and on the way found and old fold up bike lenning against a building as i look at every raleigh i find i turned around to see and it was a royal enfield it looks just like my two raleigh folders i found the owner and he said he would take 5 dollars for it we dug
up 4.75 which he took i think it is a bargain as i seen yall like the raleigh folders is this one worth any thing it sure looks like my raleighs and very ride able
any help thanks yall always come through

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Anybody know Peugeot models? posted by: Eric S. on 6/17/2002 at 10:13:14 PM
I'm trying to identify a recently acquired Peugeot. It's got silver/gray paint, with "Peugeot" and checkerboard pattern in blue on the top tube; Super Vitus tubes; fully chromed fork and crown; Simplex derailleurs with triple crankset and 6 speed rear; Mafac Competition centerpull brakes; Christophe pedal clips with leather straps and sewn on leather over the metal clips; Atax(?) stem; Stronglight cranks. That's all I can think of without the bike in front of me. Any ideas, even about the year? Thanks.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Anybody know Peugeot models? posted by Keith on 6/18/2002 at 1:16:40 PM
With that little information I'd guess late 70s early 80s. Is the Stronglight an old 93, or does it look more like Campy or later model cranks? Are the Simplex plastic or aluminum?

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Got rid of some of my bikes this weekend posted by: Gralyn on 6/17/2002 at 4:46:39 PM
I actually gave up some of my bikes this weekend. But, they were ones I hardly ever rode - because I didn't really like the way they fit me...and their ride. A Schwinn World Sport....from the 70's in like new condition....A Nishiki 12 speed....center pull brakes...looked really good - but was a bit heavy....and a Peugeot Grand Sport. I didn't really make any significant amount of money off them....but at least now - I feel it has opened the door for me to get a few more bikes. Up until then....I was only gaining bikes. I didn't want to eventually end up with 100 bikes...I was already just over 20 - so now, maybe I will be able to keep it at a reasonable number.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Got rid of some of my bikes this weekend posted by Keith on 6/18/2002 at 3:47:18 PM
Over the past five-six years I've managed to "de-accumulate" dozens of lightweights. It's been a pleasure and an education to have them pass through my hands, even if only briefly to examine them and give them a simple cleaning and adjustment. Over time, my personal stable of bikes I ride has been steadily upgraded -- whereas a few years ago I was commuting on a nice Schwinn Le Tour, I now ride a Campy NR-equiped Bottechia Professional. I've been fortunate to get to the point that I don't keep bikes for myself unless they are Reynolds or Columbus or similar DB tubing, and Campy-equiped. I only keep parts if they are Campy, or if Japanese at least Shimano 600, Suntour Cyclone, etc. So acquire, learn, thin the herd, and keep looking for better machines. They're out there.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Got rid of some of my bikes this weekend posted by Gralyn on 6/18/2002 at 5:40:46 PM
Yes, that's my idea...I want to work myself up to better and better bikes....keep the numbers thinned down. Right now, I'm pretty low-end....but I am always looking to upgrade.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by: Oscar on 6/17/2002 at 5:42:08 AM
To be honest, I never trusted the rust on the top of the stembolt, and I only cleaned around it when I got the bike. Finally after a year, I couldn't stand it, and I needed to raise the bar. Well, what do you know, my allen stripped the hole in about one turn. So friends, how am I going to extract the stembolt?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by Wings on 6/17/2002 at 7:54:04 AM

1. Try using a vice grips (if there is enough clearance). I have used vice grips to remove one way security lag bolts before and they work!

2. Take a small grinding too and attach a mini circular saw blade. Grind a slot for a large screw driver blade to fit into. You could use a hack saw also.

3. Drill out the bolt with progressive larger bits until you are able to remove to top cap of the bolt. You would then need a new bolt after you raise the stem. Chances are the bolt may have frozen in place and the next step is to punch it thru with a large punch & liquid wrench.

#1. Revised -- you could grind two opposing flat spots (use a small grinder tool) so that the vice grip gets a good grip. I have had great luck with vice grips (similar situations) -- even when you can only move the bolt a slight amount on each try.

Just ideas ....

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by Stacey on 6/17/2002 at 10:46:52 AM
... or you could use what known as an 'easy-out' or screw extractor, should be available at your local Sears Hardware or from a Snap-On guy. They come in a variety of sizes, usually in a kit. With the allen bolt the hard work is done, you already have the requsite hole. Just tap the screw extractor in the hole and turn it out. While you're at the hardware store get your self a plastic trim cap for the new allen bolt. It's a little flat plastic disc with a little nubbin' on the back that will snap in the hex of the bolt. It will keep rain & wash water from gathering in the bolt head and rusting it up... and it gives a nice finished look to your stem too. Good luck!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by David on 6/17/2002 at 10:56:20 AM
If this is an allen-head bolt, it's recessed in the stem. I don't see how you'll avoid ruining the stem to get it out. (Maybe its height is ok after all!) If it's to be ruined anyway, you might as well saw it off in the middle and punch down and out the remains of the bolt and wedge. Then you can remove the bottom of the stem and, turning the bike upside-down, shake out the bolt and wedge from the steerer tube. Hope it's not a nice Cinelli!

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by Mike Slater on 6/17/2002 at 12:32:59 PM
Take a hacksaw and cut the stem. Its probably time for a new stem anyway. Having cracked a old stem in the past, I do not mess around with them anymore.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by smg on 6/17/2002 at 3:49:58 PM
I'm afraid I have to agree that the stem needs to be cut off. The real problem is that the bolt has likely rusted into the wedge or expander plug, which implies other corrosion involving the stem and steerer tube. Time to operate for the cancer; hope the stem isn't a good one!
I've long considered the opening at the bottom of the steerer tube to be a major weak spot in design, allowing moisture to get into the steerer tube and promote corrosion. Some sort of a plug might be a good idea.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by Stacey on 6/17/2002 at 4:27:00 PM
Cut the stem?!?!? Good god man, that's like amputating the leg for a sore toe... and not even checking for an ingrown nail! Better to spend the $10 or so for a screw extractor. A) It's non invasive to anything but the already ruined bolt. B) It will allow for PROPER examination of the stem be fore condemning it to an untimely death. and finally C) It's an excuse to buy another tool, 'coz everyone knows you can never have too many of them! LOL

Go gently Oscar, why ruin at the outset what might be an otherwise good stem?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by Walter on 6/17/2002 at 5:54:39 PM
Stacey's idea is a good one particularly if you've got a decent drill/screwgun. You can always cut the stem later.

Of course if it's just a run of the mill stem and you've got some in your parts box economically it might make sense to just go ahead and cut it.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by ken on 6/17/2002 at 9:36:38 PM
With a recessed bolt head, if an extractor doesn't move it, you could conceivably drill out the head and drive the wedge down. However, I hope you don't take anything for granted. I have a Raleigh whose alloy stem welded itself into the fork; I was able to pull the bolt and drive the wedge all the way out the bottom of the fork, and the stem is still as immobile as ever. If I cut off the stem, I'd need a drill press with a what, 7/8" bit? to get the rest out of the hole. In short, may I suggest you take your time?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by Oscar on 6/18/2002 at 3:49:37 AM
Well, friends, I'm impressed by your outpouring of love and concern. I ran the same question by two neighbors. The car guy says cut the stem, the motorcycle guy says extract the bolt. I'm inclined toward the extractor, and I'll let you know what's happening.

It's a 3ttt stem, kind of short and useless. I suspect the whole bike has been raced and ridden hard. One way or another, the stem is going.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by Stacey on 6/18/2002 at 3:46:57 PM
What do you expect from a car guy (Ford, right?)? LOL!!! Surprised he didn't suggest the 'smoke wrench'!

I'll bet the motorcycle guy rides a european bike too... probably a Duc or Guzzi.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by kim on 6/19/2002 at 5:02:18 AM
and whats wrong with Duc's??? HMMMMMM


   RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by Stacey on 6/19/2002 at 10:44:59 AM
Nothing... It was a compliment to motorcycle 'guys' in general. As that he recomended a non-invasive method of problem resolution, I figure he's got to be a conniseur of fine motorcycles ie: high end and non mainstream euro bikes.

Now a true biker would break out H-D special tools #176-b (3lb hand sledge)& #273-c7 (cold chisel) to solve the problem. Only having a bit of fun, Harley dudes... don't get yer shorts in a wad. LOL

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Now what have I gotten myself into? posted by Chris on 6/19/2002 at 8:04:20 PM
Eye protection when using drills or chisels or whatever, lest you go blind and need a tandem partner in the future.