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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

MISC:   Panracer Paselas posted by: Keith on 9/25/2002 at 3:05:13 PM
After a couple hundred test miles, I have a new favorite commuting/all-around tire -- the Panracer Pasela. Grant "Rivendell" Petersen, Michael "Bicycleclassics" Kone, and Sheldon Brown (sort of) endorse this tire. It is not too heavy (wire bead 700 x 32 is 300 grams), and the casing is supple enough that the ride is noticeably smoother than other larger tires I've used (much more so than my previous favorite commuter, Avocet Cross 700 x 32, cheap Michelins). Nashbar has them on sale for $11.95, available in 27 x 1 and 1/4, 1/8, and 700 x 28, 32, and 35. The 700 x 32 are really about 28 on Mavic MA-3 rims, so if you like wide I'd go for the 35s. Good tires make a HUGE difference in ride quality, and although these won't ride like top-end Michelin Axiel Pros (which are for a different purpose anyway) they're a big cut above anything else I've found at this price.

   RE:MISC:   Panracer Paselas posted by Oscar on 9/25/2002 at 9:59:35 PM
27's in skinny sizes are so hard to find, let alone at that price! Scoop them up.

I have a set of 27 x 7/8, which are a skinny as I've seen them. Only one of my rims is narrow enough to support them. I ride it with 7/8' in front and 1" for those smooth fast rides.

   RE:MISC:   Panracer Paselas posted by Jonathan on 9/26/2002 at 5:26:22 AM
I get (27 X 1+1/4) tires at Rite-Aide for $8. There is a 70 psi and a 90 psi. The brand is a chinese maker Cheng Shen and they are not bad handling. I get cut tires all the time from road debris; seems that, lately, I am constantly reaching down at intersections to pick up screws and nails. A guy can fix a flat, but a sliced tire goes in the garbage can ASAP.? Panaracer (blue sidewall) MTB tires are superb for $30. I can't see a $12 Panracer here in Ca., but I'll keep looking. Are they tough? These Chen Shens are OK.

   RE:MISC:   Panracer Paselas posted by Keith on 9/26/2002 at 3:06:41 PM
I absolutely guarantee that the Panracers have a much better ride than the tough Cheng Shen tires, with which I'm familiar. The Chengs are usable, and will get you from A to B, but the lighter, higher thread count, flexible casing of the Panracer will make your ride much smoother.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Panracer Paselas posted by Gralyn on 9/26/2002 at 3:28:10 PM
What I see around here....any decent tire in a bike shop...is going to be expensive. You maybe can find them on some clearance sale for $16 each if you are lucky. Most of them are probably around $30 each. That's just in-general / on average. I can get a 27 X 1 1/4 at X-mart for about $8 - but they're not all that good. I once saw some Continental tires in a Schwinn shop for $15 each.

Is there are resource for the older gum wall tires like from the early 80's?

I have some 1" rims I need tires for. Maybe I will be able to find some that won't hurt my wallet too badly.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Panracer Paselas posted by Darryl on 9/26/2002 at 4:45:35 PM
As a rule of thumb the greater the thread count the smoother the ride, the more resistant to flats and, of course, the more expensive. I have removed old worn out high thread count tires with gashes all over but still holding air. Nashbar has a 27" tire for under $10 which is fairly decent and light weight.

   RE:MISC:   Panracer Paselas posted by Keith on 9/26/2002 at 8:13:23 PM
On a note of caution -- many older 27" rims do not have a bead hook, and tires rated at 100-120 should not be inflated that far on such rims. I've used 27" tires (Specialized Armadillos) on some old, smooth-sided Weinmann Concaves for a few years, without any problem, but I don't go over 90psi. I suspect the problem of blowing tires off a rim would be worse with smooth-sided rims that are also chromed steel.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ca. 1971 Peugeot PR-10 in eBay posted by: John E on 9/25/2002 at 1:58:22 PM
There is a nice-looking, Seattle-based Peugeot PR-10 on eBay. It needs only a decent saddle and handlebars/brake levers to become a nice touring or commuting bike, with ample clearance for mudguards and at least 28mm tyres. The classic paint and decal design suggest 1970-73 vintage. The PR-10 (redesignated PKN-10 in the late 1970s) is the next best thing to a PX-10 (and a whole lot cheaper!), and has double-butted ("renforce") Reynolds 531 where it counts, on the main triangle ("3 tubes"). If only it were a couple of cm taller ...

   http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1863350743 posted by John E on 9/25/2002 at 2:06:13 PM
Sorry, here's the link:


   RE:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1863350743 posted by Oscar on 9/25/2002 at 3:01:04 PM
I had a few laughs seeing the description. "This bike is worth 2 or 3 large." I always figured that large meant $1,000. Does he mean c's, bens, or clams?

"Original wool seat cover." Spit my coffee at the screen with that one. I had a wool-like seat cover on an early mtb. I liked the look, but I was young.

Ok, I hate being sarcastic so I'll stop. Its a nice bike. I like those French touring bars. There's very little rise, and their swept back look is pleasing. Unfortunately, they seem too narrow to me. Drops are nice.

Final word: Chrome lugs. Always a sweet detail.

AGE / VALUE:   Centurion Dave Scott Expert Suntour GPX posted by: rick on 9/24/2002 at 9:11:09 PM
Just bought a Centurion Dave Scott Expert from the late 80's with Suntour GPX. I dont know anything about these components. Can someone tell me about the parts? I am told these are indexed and are pretty nice. Are they equiv to Shimano 105? What do you think the bike is worth? Is it a nice Tange double-butted steel frame...

Thanks, Rick

    Suntour GPX posted by John E on 9/25/2002 at 2:08:49 PM
I like all of the 1975-85 higher-end SunTour derailleurs, including the Cyclone and GPX series.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Fuji Finest posted by: Ian Kersey on 9/24/2002 at 9:01:26 PM
Spotted an old Fuji Finest in the rafters of my LBS. Looked in great condition with Suntour barcons, Cyclone rear der, Superbe brake levers. Chromed lugs, fork, and stays. Strange black HF hubs (IMHO, I'm a francophile who's used to Normandy HF hubs). Midnight blue paint, intact decals. Really a pretty, immaculately clean bike. Store owner said that it was from the late 70's. Any input on the value of such a beast? Was asking $295 -- seemed awfully steep to me (but it was a beautiful bike).

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Fuji Finest posted by Warren on 9/24/2002 at 11:13:42 PM
If it's Tange Champion # 1 or Ishwata O22 tubes, it's a nice bike and "maybe" worth the $. There was a generation of black Dura-Ace components...maybe those hubs? Take it for a ride...maybe it will have some magic in it.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Fuji Finest posted by Kevin K on 9/25/2002 at 12:24:28 AM
Hi Ian. On the subject of bike stores a LBS near me has just started a neat service: They allow people to bring in high quality bikes and display them for sale. This service is free. The owner told me it usually serves two purposes. The guy selling the bike has a good chance the bike will sell quickly and in turn then the person that sold their bike will buy one of his ( the shop owners )new ones. Ian I've seen some really nice bikes in this store. Most of them are high end bikes from Europe and rarely have I seen an asking price over $200. The Fuji is a nice piece I'm sure but basically $300 is alot of bucks. A full tilt, near mint, Campy equipted 1973 Paramount just sold here ( in town )for $500. Just my opinion: Go in with cash in hand. People have a hard time watching cash walk away. You might do very well in this manner of purchasing the Fuji for a lot less. Good luck, Kevin K

MISC:   tools posted by: Gralyn on 9/24/2002 at 5:54:17 PM
Tools, more and more tools!
I am very, very slowly starting to collect some of the specialty tools for bicycles. I finally got a crank pulling tool just a week or so ago. I have a question about another tool: a trueing stand. Most bikes I tinker with may have a small amount of warpage in the wheels. I can usually straighten them up with no problems. However, some of them are a little more warped....and I am finding that I am not having much success getting them straight. I suppose the only way to do it - is to use a trueing stand.
Is this true....or do any of you know any tips for trying to straighten one without a stand? Or should I buy a stand? About how much do they cost?

   RE:MISC:   tools posted by Stacey on 9/24/2002 at 8:37:57 PM
Call me frugal Gralyn but I "made" one from a discarded cheapo bicycle carrier and two pair of cast off forks. The I.D. of the fork neck being a match for a snug fit on the O.D. of the carrier holds everything in place.

One fork is set for the narrow front wheel spread, the other has been tweaked a bit to accept the wider spread of a rear wheel. Using a coaster brake fixing strap and a long machine bolt with a nut on either side gives a reference point.

Hey, it ain't fancy and probably not the most efficent but it saves a bunch of bucks and it works. :-)

   truing stand posted by John E on 9/24/2002 at 8:40:39 PM
A truing stand is a nice convenience and potential timesaver, not a necessity. If you cannot straighten a given wheel while it is mounted in a bicycle, using the brake pads as a guide, you will not be able to do signficantly better with even a top-of-the-line stand. If the rim is seriously warped, you will need to straighten it at least somewhat (perhaps in a partly-open drawer) before tuning the spoke lengths and tensions.

   RE:MISC:   tools posted by Oscar on 9/24/2002 at 9:20:47 PM
Minor imperfections can be fixed, but a truly warped rim is a dead rim. A truing stand (while not totally necessary) makes wheelbuilding so much easier. One of the things that you miss with the bike fork method is fixing "humps" in the wheel.

   RE:MISC:   tools posted by Keith on 9/25/2002 at 3:05:06 PM
I've built about a dozen wheels and trued dozens without a stand, though I've used a shop stand (top-end Park with dial micrometer added) and they are MUCH more convenient. You can get creative with using you brake pads -- take a piece of wire and wrap it on the stay or bridge to get a better handle on hops. I fully agree with Oscar, however, that a badly warped wheel is trash. Use it as an opportunity to learn to build, if you haven't already. Sheldon Brown has excellent, simple, step-by-step instructions at his site. If you're careful, and aim for high, even tension, even your first try will be better than a factory built wheel. More and more I reliaze the old truths -- the quality of ride is linked very directly to the quality of wheels and tires, and close after that the frame.

   RE:RE:MISC:   tools posted by Oscar on 9/25/2002 at 10:05:34 PM
I've also built about a half a dozen wheels. The first set I built were the best I've ever done. I think the reason is that I used really high tension on the spokes. (By the way, I built these first wheels on a bike fork.)

   wheelbuilding posted by John E on 9/25/2002 at 11:20:29 PM
I am currently building a 32-spoke 3-cross wheelset for the Bianchi, using eBay parts: ca. 1988(?) Campag. Chorus(?) hubs, stainless spokes, and NOS Campag. Omega rims. For scratch builds, which I do only occasionally, a truing stand is indeed extremely convenient.

Next project: replace the original Ofmega crankset and BB with ca. 1995 Campag. Chorus parts, making the Bianchi almost full Campag.

   RE:MISC:   tools posted by Rob on 9/26/2002 at 12:29:41 AM
Very informative thread...please keep it up, guys!!!

Not long ago I bought a Park Tool TS-2 truing stand...being the fussy person I unfortunately am, I thought the main caliper arm was slightly out so I attempted to make an adjustment by prying it a bit...big mistake...some of the tack welds popped. (Truing is a relative thing...and dishing is far easier done using a dishing gauge.)

I explained all of this to the people at Park Tool in Minneapolis, looking to buy the replacement parts, and unexpectedly, and very graciously I thought, they sent me the parts at no charge!!!

AGE / VALUE:   amf girls bicycle with 24x1.75 tires posted by: sherman hyde on 9/24/2002 at 4:58:11 AM
I need to know who made AMF Bicycles ibought one its a girls with light on front fender the chain ring has 3big stars and 3small stars on it 24x1.75 tires serial number is KO79256 thank you

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   amf girls bicycle with 24x1.75 tires posted by David on 9/24/2002 at 4:13:34 PM
Try the "Balloon tire and middleweights" discussion group on this site. Someone there may know something.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Batavus posted by: AJ on 9/23/2002 at 10:38:34 AM

anyone have anyinfo onna Batavus Monte Carlo? tried to find the listings by country on browns site but cpuldnt find them,anyinfo aprriciated,AJ

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Batavus posted by Steven on 9/23/2002 at 11:40:05 AM
Batavus is the second largest Dutch brand of bicycle. They still produce bicycles. They are not terribly well-known for high quality bicycles, as that market used to be held by Gazelle and RIH in the Netherlands.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Batavus posted by tim on 9/24/2002 at 2:51:38 AM
Way back in 1974 I bought a brand new Batavus Monte Carlo from a bike dealer in Minneapolis. cost me $119.,on sale.. a lot of money at a time I was earning minimum wage, $1.60 per hour. I still have the bike, but I prefer riding other bikes in my "collection".

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Vintage Cinelli with Wood Rims posted by: Lania on 9/23/2002 at 12:11:02 AM
I have a vintage Cinelli road bike that I would like to sell and need some idea of value. I acquired it from its original owner 11-12 years ago who purchased it new in Los Altos, CA. This bike has original fenders and wood rims. Can email pics to anyone interested in assisting me in establishing its value. Thank you.

MISC:   Build up Japan Made Puch posted by: FrankBoss on 9/22/2002 at 3:52:00 PM
I landed a Puch made in Japan.
I know it is not of the same quality as the European model but it fits very well and looks nice.
it has Sun Tour everything.
I wanted to lighten it up a bit. the Crank set thow 3 peice seems to be very heavy. does the Japan made Puch have the same threads as the early ones ?
or will i find them easy to interchange with a lighter crankset. What would be a cheap option for recycled Parts?
I want to land a set of Black Mavic rims gripper rims too.
Any sujestion would be helpfull.


    Japan Made Puch posted by John E on 9/22/2002 at 8:36:32 PM
If it truly is Japanese, your frame will have ISO-British threads, making component substitution and updating very easy. A good set of lightweight wheels and a good alloy crankset should make your Puch into a competent commuter or recreational rider. Watch eBay and your local yard sales!

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Disk brakes on a Kabuki posted by: Bryant on 9/22/2002 at 2:05:28 PM
Hi all, I just picked up a Bridgestone Kabuki Skyway 10 speed for cheap transportatiuon. There is nothing special about the bike except for the rear disk brakes. I've not seen disk brakes on road bikes before and am wondering do I keep them or swap out for regulat road brake. The wheels are steel so was the disk brake a better way of braking when wet?? The brakes work but since I'm fixing it up for someone, will he be able to get them serviced later or am I just handing him a headache waiting to happen?? Thanks in advance for the advice.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Disk brakes on a Kabuki posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/22/2002 at 7:05:51 PM
In one of my boxes is that Bridgestone brake unit. Missing some small attachment part but still new never used. make offer if interested. humberchristopher28@hotmail.com

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Disk brakes on a Kabuki posted by Elvis on 9/27/2002 at 10:02:05 AM
I picked up the same bicycle out of curiosity -- never saw a road bike w/ a disc before. Front had centerpull brakes. The frame has what look like Cast Aluminum lugs -- does yours have an expanding bolt in the seatpost instead of the traditional seatpost binder? I found the bike is loaded with cheapo components and not the best riding [not like some nicer light-wieght Kabuki's i've seen] but the disc brake is cool. I like it. A lot of mountain bikes come with discs now, so he will probably be able to get brake pads, etc. etc. whenever he needs them if they parts aren't too different.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   fuji info posted by: AJ on 9/22/2002 at 1:46:20 AM
picked up a fuji flair today,has sr sealed hubs,sugino vp crank arms,armidillo tires,araya rims,4130 moly frame,double butted,aluminum bars,viscount seat,diacomp side pull brakesits torquois blue,brake pad wear is almost non existant,serial number is 5fr3225,was this low end high end and wen was it made,dont care about the value as i paid 80 cents plus tax at the thrift store,thanks AJ

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   fuji info posted by Bryant on 9/22/2002 at 2:14:08 PM
Anytime you can get a bike for 80 cents, I would not care if it were high or low end. 4130 CroMoly is nothing to sneeze at, and Fuji makes fairly good bikes. I think you've made quite the buy.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   fuji info posted by AJ on 9/22/2002 at 6:53:13 PM
i get a few at the thrift store,my inquires are for info,i like finding bikes i dont know about and then researching them

AGE / VALUE:   FREE: NICE 1980 SUPER LETOUR MIXTE FRAME posted by: Kevin K on 9/21/2002 at 7:02:19 PM
Hi all. Does anyone need a nice Schwinn Super Letour Mixte frame? Nice green metallic paint. Nice decals too! Pay shipping costs only please. If interested email kbcurvin@aol.com. Thanks, Kevin

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   FREE: NICE 1980 SUPER LETOUR MIXTE FRAME posted by Kevin K on 9/21/2002 at 7:07:30 PM
Hi again. This is for the frame/fork only. Bottom bracket and headset also included. Kevin K

AGE / VALUE:   How old is my Legnano? posted by: Shaun on 9/21/2002 at 12:34:58 AM
Hi all! I have a vintage Legnano that I bought in the early 80's and put away. At the time, the bike shop (that was going out of business) said it was manufactured in 1958. It is all Campy (rear derailleur sez "Gran Sport"), and the painted decals label it a model Roma, Campagnolo Record(?). The only serial number I can find is located on the rear of the frame, just below the seat post..."EP 1448". It's a ten speed, with down tube shifters; center-pull Universal brakes and Fiamme tubular wheels.


Thanks for the help!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   How old is my Legnano? posted by nz on 9/21/2002 at 4:42:43 AM
If the cranks are Campagnolo & have a raised lip area around the pedal holes,your bike is probably from the late 50s-early 60s.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   How old is my Legnano? posted by Mike Slater on 9/21/2002 at 3:26:36 PM
Check the model # on the centerpull Universal brakes. The Mod.61 centerpull brakes were introduced in 1961.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   How old is my Legnano? posted by Shaun on 9/21/2002 at 3:27:18 PM
Correction...the shifters are bar-end, not downtube. Oops.

    How old is my Legnano? posted by John E on 9/21/2002 at 8:24:25 PM
151 BCD Campag. aluminum cranks came out in 1958 and were expensive and rare until well into the 1960s. A 1958 Legnano, even a fairly high-end one, would probably have been assembled with cottered steel cranks.

Please tell us more about your frame (type of dropouts, presence of chrome on the stays, overall geometry, etc.).

Also, most Campag. derailleurs are date-coded -- check the back side. Steel Gran Sport derailleurs were very common on high-end bikes of the 1950s and very eary 1960s.

   RE: How old is my Legnano? posted by Shaun on 9/22/2002 at 12:44:51 AM
Thank you all for the info...the draopouts are Campagnolo, and the lower half of the forks are chrome, as well as the rear drops. As to overall geometry, I have never measured it...but it fits me nice at 5'10"...

I will try to get a photo and the dimensions.

Thanks again

   Legnano posted by John E on 9/22/2002 at 8:37:58 PM
With Campag. dropouts and half-chrome stays, it sounds like a keeper to me!

   RE:Legnano posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/24/2002 at 12:15:16 AM
Steel, fluted, cottered, nicely chromed left crank arm. Engraved Legnano.
Only one.
This is the type of thing I went loony over and managed to save from the scrap man.
It now hangs on the wall with other orphan cranks.

I hear that alloy cotterless cranks were fitted to these bikes and these are nicer finds but still, this is one lovely crank arm.

AGE / VALUE:   Meral posted by: dave on 9/20/2002 at 7:54:30 PM
Anyone heard of this brand of French bike -- Meral

Looks like '80s stuff more than '70s. Vitus tubing (with the rear brake cable routed inside the top tube), Stronglight cranks of a model I had not seen before, Simplex DRs, Mafac racers with levers that have the full, black hoods. Rims are Mavic 700c, front hub is Shimano 105.

FOR SALE:   Colnago frame for under $100 posted by: Ray on 9/20/2002 at 6:45:39 PM
Another shameless self promotion. I have a Colnago frame up on ebay right now that goes off in a few hours. It is currently well under $100. Don't miss out on this one, you won't see many Colnago frames at this price. No Reserve.