This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: Vintage Lightweights

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh Technium 400 posted by: Ron Slayback on 10/21/2003 at 7:22:06 PM
Just drug this bike out of the trash.The frame seems to be of much nicer quality than the cheap parts on it i.e.-Shimano indexed stem mounted shifters,Araya 1 1-4 rims,Diacompe brakes w/qr in the levers& safety levers. Is this bike worth upgrading?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh Technium 400 posted by Ron on 10/24/2003 at 12:23:44 PM
I post a legitimate question but all you jackasses want to talk about is how you blew some Lance wannabe into the weeds while wearing cutoffs and sneakers.Most of you need to aquire something resembing a life.This site sucks!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh Technium 400 posted by Kim on 10/24/2003 at 2:22:47 PM
They are great bikes. Aluminium tubes. Most of the frame lugs are 'glued'. There was a recall on a certain line of them in the early 1990s. I forget what the problem was. There is a place on the web (?.gov) to look up recalls. I forget the model number (yours is a 400) but I know the colors of the recall models were black and white.

And to bend this back to today's topic. You'll be cool blasting past the Lance wannabees on your Technium!

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Large rear Wheels posted by: T-Mar on 10/21/2003 at 7:04:35 PM
A couple of posts ago, JONathan had questioned about using larger rear wheels to obtain the necessary gearing in record attempts. I had replied that I recalled Moser using a large rear wheel in one of his hour attempts. Well, I just found the appropraite reference material. On May 21, 1988, Moser set a new indoor hour record of 50.644 kilometeres. The bicycle had a rear wheel with a 42 inch diameter! To accomodate the rear wheel, the seat tube was split and Moser was virtually straddling the wheel. The reported advantages were lower rolling resistance and lower aerodynamic drag. It looks especially strange when paired with a 24 inch front wheel. In this case the wheel was not used to obtain the necessary gearing, but it does show that large wheels are feasible, even if they are no longer legal.

MISC:   Commuting posted by: Rob on 10/21/2003 at 5:49:29 PM
Well, I thought I better relate the events of this AM's commute...to remind all you commuters that the price we pay for a safe passage is eternal vigilance. This AM, as I was passing thrugh an intersection with stop signs for the other crossroad, a car either drove through or made a left turn right in front of me...at that point I didn't have a chance...the road was wet, though it wasn't raining and it was daylight...I skidded into the side of the car with quite a bang and went airborne...luckily my injuries are light...no bones, tendons or ligaments...but there will likely be deep bruising...and this time in a much more serious accident, I didn't bang up my ribs...and for those of you who aren't committed to helmets, the final event was my head hitting the pavement...the helmet is a write-off, but I only feel a very slight sensation on the side of my head...which I'll monitor. Without a helmet I'm sure I would have been unconscious or worse...

I think my bike is a write-off...luckily my winter beater, the Tange No. 5 Nishiki. The bars, stem and forks are bent...the frame might have made it if the headtube isn't bent, but I'll need a a bit of time to check that. I think the driver may not have stopped or stopped only briefly...in any event They'll have a nice souvenir on the passenger at. If I want to go the legal route, luckily I have a very credible witness, who got the license no. and other details and insisted I take her business card despite my relative lack of presence of mind.

Anyway, I implore any of you who aren't convinced...please wear you helmet...these accidents happen so fast and are so unexpected...

   RE:MISC:   Commuting posted by Keith on 10/21/2003 at 7:11:24 PM
I'm very sorry this happened to you. I have close calls on a regular basis on my commute. I agree the helmet is a must. I encourage you to prosecute the case especially since this was a hit-skip.

I believe that today's motorists are more aggressive, less patient, and more willing than ever to take risks (adverse to the cyclist, not the motorist) in dealing with cyclists on the road. I'm beginning to wonder whether Jon Forester's Effective Cycling "vehicle theory" is enough to keep riders safe on today's roads (which may only get worse as driving and traffic continually increase). Do whatever you can to stay safe.

   RE:MISC:   Commuting posted by Gralyn on 10/21/2003 at 7:37:10 PM
You mean you collided with this vehicle - and they drove off?....and luckily a witness took down the license plate #?

   RE:MISC:   Commuting posted by john on 10/21/2003 at 10:01:41 PM
sorry for accident...but you kept your cranium intact...recently was biking with daughter (teen) who thought bike helmets were for "geeks"..she had a chain hang and went over the top of handlebars....bruised cheek/shoulder....i got her a skateboard helmet (less geeky)....and one for myself....i don't leave home without it now!

   RE:RE:MISC:   Commuting posted by JONathan on 10/21/2003 at 10:05:51 PM
Lucky, lucky...lucky. Glad you walked away from that horrendous event.
I have been practicing the imaginary idea that I am invisible as I believe that in many cases I actually am to many MVO's. It's tough, like in your case when you are already committed to a move and you are stuck with zero options.
Too bad your Nishiki got bent up. Lately, I have felt a few "air-brushes", which are very uncomfortable from the rear. Mostly, they are the turbo's that soiund like they are going 60mph, when in fact it's more like 35mph reached in rapid acceleration from a right turn.
Maybe I just get spooked easier than I used to.
Good luck, JONathan

   RE:MISC:   Commuting posted by T-Mar on 10/21/2003 at 10:43:10 PM
I'm glad to hear that you are relatively unscathed. I hope you got checked over by a doctor. If not, do it ASAP!

It's very fortunate that the witness realized her moral repsonsibility and decided to get involved. That's very reassuring to hear, given the way most bystanders act these days. Good luck, should you decide to pursue the matter with the police.

   RE:MISC:   Commuting posted by Don on 10/22/2003 at 3:01:16 AM
Good to here you came through that in pretty good shape.
The most dangerous spot on my commute was the driveway of the local Burger King. I had numerous close calls there. Drivers were always overtaking me, misjudging my speed, then turning right into or in front of me. Sometimes they were talking on a cell phone & oblivious to others. This Summer, Burger King closed up, maybe just for a remodel but I no longer have to be on red alert near the driveway. Don

   RE:RE:MISC:   Commuting posted by Gralyn on 10/22/2003 at 12:01:03 PM
What I've noticed lately - is that when motorized vehicles pass you....I know the big SUV's and large trucks are bigger vehicles than passenger cars...and maybe that has something to do with it.....but when those big SUV's pass you....they leave you hardly no room at all - as opposed to most passenger cars - which are usually more forgiving with the space.
......most of them don't really like us on the road at all. I just hope road rage doesn't get the best of them some day...and they decide to take it out on a cyclist!

   RE:MISC: Commuting posted by Warren on 10/22/2003 at 12:47:45 PM
Where I live, you can pay a fee to get the name address and phone number from a plate. I'd phone him/her and give them the choice of making some compensation (new beater?) or be reported for leaving the scene. This makes my blood boil.

   RE:MISC:   Commuting posted by Rob on 10/22/2003 at 3:59:12 PM
Thanks for all the input...so far I'm on the mend...a couple of stitches in my leg and a few nasty bruises particularly to my right leg. I've decided, in the circumstances, to report the incident and let the process take its course...Luckily I have a very credible witness...a hotel chain executive, and she insisted I take her business card...I guess she could she I was in a bit of a daze. The driver may have left the scene or may have stayed briefly...but the witness will know...

The moral...be vigilant...there is an unfortunate tendency for some drivers to sometimes simply not see what is in front of them...this happens to motorcyclists too, and often, because of the speed, with far worse results... And wear your helmet...in my incident the last event was my head smacking the pavement...the helmet did its job and is a write-off...

   today's motorists posted by John E on 10/22/2003 at 8:58:21 PM
Keith's suggestion that today's motorist is more aggressive, more distracted, less patient, more risk-taking, etc. is extremely disturbing. If he is correct, we have a huge life-and-death problem on our hands. Recent reports of fatalities (especially, but not exclusively Ken Kifer) and serious injuries have been unusually frequent. I hope this is a normal statistical "blip," rather than a trend.

   RE:today's motorists posted by Derek Coghill on 10/22/2003 at 11:04:20 PM
I don't know about the USA, but here in the UK I think that drivers suffer from "Volvo syndrome"; cars are much safer so they don't take so much care. As a cyclist, motorcyclist and car driver, I can see various viewpoints; none of these include pulling out of junctions without looking twice! Hope you get a good outcome from this.

AGE / VALUE:   Shogun posted by: Birddog on 10/21/2003 at 2:05:54 AM
Well, after reading how many of you guys hang out and frequent thrift shops, I decided to pop into one myself today.
They had a Shogun, bad paint, very bad in fact, but it had Tange double butted tubes. The components were Shimano, no model that I could readily perceive. The bike was too small for me, but then I didn't bother to measure either. Just curious as to whether these are worth pursuing.

On another note, I was trying to measure the seat angle on my Mondia, and I discovered that the top tube is bowed downward 1 mm in its 59 cm length. Is this common? There was not a sign of a wrinkle or ding after careful inspection, it's just bowed a bit.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Shogun posted by Fred A on 10/21/2003 at 6:14:39 PM
Not True. T-Mar. The two SHOGUN bikes I have were made in JAPAN, not Taiwan. One is a 12 speed 400 model, the other a 12 speed SAMURAI model with full Shimano 105 group. Both are all original. Incredible bikes, and I own some nice ones (including a 12 speed Motobecane Le Champion with full Campagnolo). These bikes are hard to come by as owners never seem to want to give them up....me included!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Shogun posted by T-Mar on 10/21/2003 at 2:05:00 PM
Shogun was a relatively short lived brand that was manufactured in Taiwan. I have no records of them prior to the early eighties and they seem to have disappeared by the 90's.

The company was noted for their different philosphy. They are remembered for primarily for unique frame designs and good value.

The Kaze funny bike was the first affordable, dedicated time trial bicyle. it featured a sloping top tube frame, small diameter front wheel, bullhorn handlebars and Shimano 600 components at a time when most funny bikes cost twice it's $750.00 price tag.

Their 1000 model road bike had a triple triangle frame layout similar to GT, but at a time when GT had yet to enter that market. This design has the seat stays attached to the seat tube at a point several inches below the top tube. The stays continue to the top tube when they are attached, several inches forward of the seat tube. This substantially stiffens the rear triangle, reducing power robbbing flex and providing excellent climbing and acceleration characteristics.

The Apine GT provided true touring geometry and features (cantilevers, triple chainrings, bar end shifters, eyelets for racks and fenders, low-rider front rack mounts)in the under $500.00 price range.

The slight bow in the top tube sounds like it should not be there. Given the small magnitude, I am not surprised that there is no rippling, ding or crease. There should be no structural comprise, however it may have pulled the frame out of alignment. If you do not notice any adverse handling characteristics it should be OK. However, test it slowly in a deserted area, just in case. If the handling is affected, a good bike shop should be able to straighten the top tube and re-align the frame.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Shogun posted by T-Mar on 10/21/2003 at 7:03:13 PM
Fred, thanks for the update. All the samples I have seen were of Taiwanese origin. What's interesting is that the 400 is an early model and the Samurai is a later model and they're both Japanese. It wouldn't have surprised me if the early models were Japanese and they later shifted manufacture to Taiwan. That was almost routine procedure for any Japanese manufacturer in the 80's.

AGE / VALUE:    posted by: Birddog on 10/21/2003 at 2:05:54 AM
Well, after reading how many of you guys hang out and frequent thrift shops, I decided to pop into one myself today.
They had a Shogun, bad paint, very bad in fact, but it had Tange double butted tubes. The components were Shimano, no model that I could readily perceive. The bike was too small for me, but then I didn't bother to measure either. Just curious as to whether these are worth pursuing.

On another note, I was trying to measure the seat angle on my Mondia, and I discovered that the top tube is bowed downward 1 mm in its 59 cm length. Is this common? There was not a sign of a wrinkle or ding after careful inspection, it's just bowed a bit.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Birddog on 10/21/2003 at 2:29:19 AM

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by John S on 10/23/2003 at 7:29:38 PM
More MONDIA... I too have crossreferenced serial numbers of my Mondia's with the CR listing. Here is what I have:

Mondia 1: Purchased 4 years ago in original state. SN 167722, seems like 1972. It has 71 campy parts, Mafac Racers, TTT Gran Prix bar/stem, Brooks Pro, tubular rims.

Mondia 2: Purchased as a frame only this year. SN 170555. 1972/73??

Mondia 3: Acutally Juvela brand, but obviously made by Mondia, exact same frame details. SN 154530. 1971? Some of the parts had been changed, but had a patent 72 Campy rear derailleur.

One theory is back then parts dates don't determine frame date. Manufacturers probably used inventory on hand or what they could get, especially during the bike boom when demand outstripped supply at times.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Birddog on 10/25/2003 at 12:44:54 AM
My S# is 176071 Identifying characteristics as follows. Date code on hubs is '72, Patent date on R der is '72, no date code on cranks (indicating pre '74). Mafac Racer brakes, TTT handlebar and stem (adjustable), and a Unicanitor saddle, not sure if its original or not, but is definitely from this era. I'm thinking most likely a '73, possibly a late '72, or early '74.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by T-Mar on 10/26/2003 at 3:30:11 AM
John S., on the contrary, component date codes during the boom years of the early 1970's are more likely to represent the year of frame manufacture. With the bikes in such high demand, the parts were not sitting on the shelves, but going directly from the parts manufacturer's production line to the bicycle manufacturers production line and out the door to the customer.

You may find some cases of old stock parts, but they would definitely be in the minority. Even substituted parts would probably have been current stock.

AGE / VALUE:   Fuji Track Bike posted by: Pete on 10/20/2003 at 6:20:05 PM
I still need more information on a Fuji track bike frame i purchased a few weeks ago. the serial numbers go as follows on the fork its stampped shimano sfp 9 and the serial numbers F75L7 the for is all chrome with oval lugging. The frame has been as been stripped and is metal with no original paint the frame has a shimano sfp 10 stamped on it. The serail number on the bottom bracket is 75L9 and the BB has four half inch drilled out sections. ( i gather to reduce weight or cool it off.) then on the lugging it has diamond cut outs and stampped on one of them is 73. It also came with a sugino BB stamped ms-68 and a tange falcon headset. I am wondering if these are orginal to the bike or aftermarket. any information on the bikes original paint job, equipment, date of production, and value would help me out.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Fuji Track Bike posted by Joe on 10/24/2003 at 7:39:59 AM
Just a guess as to a date, but this holds true with many Asian built bikes back then,
F =Fuji
75 = 1975
L9 = December 9
I don't know if the numbers on the lugwork itself have any significant meaning or not, I always figured it was just a batch number since none of the bikes I have have numbers that coincide with any dates. I've owned 3 older Fuji bikes, not track versions, and all have had various Tange headsets. Fuji was always a mid to upper end bike, they were well built, well equipped and quite popular from around the mid seventies to the mid eighties. The intention of the B.B. cutouts was most likely primarily for weight savings.

FOR SALE:   Bianch Sports 12 speed PRICE REDUCTION posted by: paul on 10/20/2003 at 2:16:36 PM
Bianch Sports 20 inch seat post, magenta color, mixte Tange 900 double butted frame(Japan), Mangaloy 2001 Fork Manganese Alloy, quick release front and rear, 27X1 Panaracer on alloy rims, Selle saddle,Sahae crank, SR stem and Sahae dropbars,gumwall hoods, Shimano group throughout 12 speed $75 delivery possible in Southern New England prefer not to ship, discount if you pick up South of Boston, MA thanks for looking! paul

   RE:FOR SALE:   Bianch Sports 12 speed PRICE REDUCTION posted by paul on 10/20/2003 at 2:26:14 PM
Correction: Bianchi is correct spelling and seat tube measured from top to bottom bracket center is 20 inches. sorry for the mistakes in the "adv" thanks for looking, paul

AGE / VALUE:   Dawes Atlantis posted by: PLavery on 10/20/2003 at 1:06:11 PM
Is anyone familiar with this Dawes model ?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dawes Atlantis posted by Jim on 10/23/2003 at 5:30:36 PM
I rode one almost every day for several years. I'm the second owner, and I bought it in 1987. This might have been their top of the line. Mine came with all 531c tubes and fork, and all NR components, Mavic tubulars, since relacd with clinchers. Fork has nearly straight blades, frame lugs and fork crowns are nice but not fancy, paint is a red to dark burgundy fade. I've logged more miles on it than any other bike I've ever owned. Nice as it is, and as long a history as I've had with it, I find it a bit heavy now, and I don't enjoy the drop bars or the downtube shifters. Great ride in its day.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Rims - for clinchers or sew-ups? posted by: Gralyn on 10/20/2003 at 11:58:55 AM
I was checking out the wheels I had taken off an old Raleigh re-painted job....I don't know...maybe it was a Record, or a Grand Prix....
Anyway, the wheels didn't match....the rear was a Rigida rim - and it had clincher tires on it....but I was looking at the profile of the rims - they didn't have a hook-bead, lip-type area like my other rims have....where the wire-bead around the inside of the tire will hook to. These were flat on the edges - no bead on the inside of the rim. I'm thinking the sew-up rims have more of a radius in the profile. These looked like regular clincher rims - they just didn't have that lip, or bead around the inside edge. Maybe they are an older clincher rim?

   RE:RE::   Rims - for clinchers or sew-ups? posted by P.C. Kohler on 10/21/2003 at 4:48:00 PM
This is fascinating stuff.

I am using 90 psi Ascent 27" x 1/4" tyres (made by Chin Seng), Presta Valves, on Dunlop HP "Special" steel rims on my 1951 Raleigh Clubman. These rims do not have the bead but the tyres seat very well and with no "creep" so far. I believe these rims were specifically made for the Dunlop Roadracing tyres, long out of production, but these replacements (from Nashbar) have an almost identical tread pattern and contour. So maybe a good option for others.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Rims - for clinchers or sew-ups? posted by T-Mar on 10/20/2003 at 1:07:26 PM
You have an older wired-on rim. Basically there are three types of rims, clincher, tubular and wired-on.

Clincher rims use tires that DO NOT have a wire inside the tire bead. The bead is just a thicker section of rubber which fits in a groove inside the rim. True clincher tires have been obsolete for decades.

What we mistakenly call a clincher tire to-day, is actually a wired-on tire. There is a wire (or Kevlar, in the cases of folding tires) bead inside the tire. The early wired-on rims have relatively smooth inside profile, with no noticable hook at the top of the flange. The hook bead, wired-on rim came into prominence in the mid-70s with the advent of high pressure tires. Without the hook in the rim flange, the high pressure tires would blow off the rims.

Tubular or sew-up rims are box-section, with no flange. The tube is totally enclosed by the tire casing, with the ends of the casing sewn together. The rim's top surface is slightly concave, to facilitate positioning the tire, which is glued to the rim.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Rims - for clinchers or sew-ups? posted by Gralyn on 10/20/2003 at 3:09:12 PM
So, what I have is possibly an older rim - from before they started putting a hook at the top of the flange? Perhaps if I put a high pressure, say maybe 90 lbs tire on it....it might blow it off the rim?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Rims - for clinchers or sew-ups? posted by Mark C. on 10/20/2003 at 4:20:18 PM
Thanks T-Mar for explaining clincher and tubular tires. I've been wondering what the difference was since most tires that are actually clinchers/wire-ons use a tube. I thought if you use a tube it's a tubular. Does anyone still use the sew on tires in production today or is it strictly for restorations?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Rims - for clinchers or sew-ups? posted by T-Mar on 10/20/2003 at 5:49:08 PM
Gralyn, hook bead rims are an absolute must if it is a high pressure KEVLAR beaded tire. However, if you are using a high pressure, wire (read metal) bead tire you MAY be able to get away with it. It depends on the rim/tire combination. Most of those pre-hook bead rims were designed for 60-65 psi tires.

Some people like to generalize on the pre-hook bead rims. They say that the aluminum rims work OK with high pressure tires, but the steel rims don't. I don't know as I would go that far. I think it comes down to the manufacturer and the subtle differences to the internal contour of the flange, the material and even the texture. Personal, I prefer to play it safe, over sorry.

Mark, tubular tires are still the preference for most pro and amateur racers, though high performance wired-on tires are slowly making inroads and are used by some pro teams. The tubular tire and rim combination still has a weight advantage over a wired-on rim and tire. Tubular advocates also cite the performance and the resilient ride quality of a tubular set-up. The drawback is a more invovled repair operation and potentially messy mounting. Some people also say they are more suspectible to flats, but I would argue that point. That's more a function of the lighter casing and tube and you have the same problem with very lightweight wired-on tires. I road tubulars for several years, but after I stopped competing, I gave up the performance edge and weight for the convenience of wired-ons. Sometimes I miss the ride, but I don't miss the repair jobs and rim glue. It all depends on your particular needs and priorities.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Rims - for clinchers or sew-ups? posted by T-Mar on 10/20/2003 at 5:52:31 PM
Mark, a picture is worth a 1000 words, or so they say. E-mail me directly and I'll send you pics of a tubular rim and blown out tire that will put everything into perspective.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Rims - for clinchers or sew-ups? posted by Keith on 10/20/2003 at 5:54:30 PM
A wide variety of tubular tires are available from the major online retailers. Many of today's racers still use them although wired-on tires have now made significant inroads. Tubulars still have a slight weight advantage (less material required on the rim due to lack of sidewalls) and according to some they corner better, but again the gaps on these considerations are closing. Campagnolo and others make specialty pre-built wheels for tubulars.

   :   Rims - for clinchers or sew-ups? posted by John E on 10/20/2003 at 6:35:37 PM
Unless the tyre fits very tightly on the rim, I do not recommend exceeding 75 PSI without a hook-bead. (I use smooth-sided rims with 70 PSI 27 x 1-3/8 knobbies on the UO-8, hooked-beaded 700C on the other road bikes.) I have had a (front) tyre creep over the top of the rim -- scary stuff!

   RE::   Rims - for clinchers or sew-ups? posted by JONathan on 10/21/2003 at 2:47:33 AM
Tubulars are complicated beyond the level acceptable to most riders, IMHO. The rubber curing is another factor...and the expense.
Gralyn, I have aroused the neighbors on several occasions before I figured out what John E. described. I had blown off two tires. I use 70 psi max on the non-hooked rims. Yesterday, I was pumping up a presta inside an Avocet 115 psi tire on a hook-bead rim when I got to 100 psi, I stopped to check the fit, again. The tire was creeping up from the rim near the stem and I saw the tube! I disconnected the pump and released the pressure while holding my breath.
You have to make sure the stem is free from the bead and that the tube is fully inside the tire. I had just patched the tube, too. Even with thorn shield I managed to get a flat. My Raleigh Technium (Aluminum)went on the same path that I took my MTB last month, near the American R. in Sacramento and I about got elbow dislocations from the 115 psi tires! It was fast, I can say that, but a UO-8 would have been a better choice with 105 psi "Continentals" front and rear.
The prestas are better for high pressure, in my experiences with tires and tubes. Hook-bead and presta tubes with "Continentals" is the best for my vintage LW's that see action. The 1 and 1 1/8 tires are strictly a racing setup, IMHO.

MISC:   Jacques Anquetil Road Bike on Ebay posted by: Jim on 10/20/2003 at 8:42:37 AM
Spotted this on eBay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3632969044&rd=1
Does anyone know anything about these bikes? Since Jacques Anquetil's winning carreer was late 50's, I would guess this is probably early to mid 60's? What components would be correct for this bike? It's not really my size but looks real interesting, I wonder how many of these are still out there?

   RE:MISC:   Jacques Anquetil Road Bike on Ebay posted by T-Mar on 10/20/2003 at 12:25:51 PM
This is probably a bike boom era club racer. Given that Jacques won his 5th TDF in 1964, this bicycle can be no older than that, but more likely it is early 1970s. Typical conponents would be MAFAC Racer brakes, Normandy Luxe hubs, MAVIC Monthlery tubular rims, Simplex Prestige derailleurs and Ideale leather saddle. Even if it is a sports model, the only substitution would be a clincher wheelset, with steel rims.

Jacques road Gitane bicycles for most of his career. It is likely that he continued the continued the relationship into his business career and had his bicyles made by Gitane. This argument is supported by the graphics, which are reminiscent of the Gitane product from this period, particularly the diamond shaped, foil, seat tube sticker.

The brand is not very common. Unfortunately, it does not have much collector value. Unlike most hobbies, bicycle collectors tend to favour the well known makes. Consequently, there is much interest in the Schwinns, Peugeots and Raleighs, but little in the obscure marques.

      Jacques Anquetil Road Bike on Ebay posted by John E on 10/21/2003 at 1:32:36 AM
I concur with T-Mar. Given the 3-bolt aluminum crankset, I would put this about on par with the $220 1972 LeJeune, which had a TA Professional crankset and tubulars. The Peugeot PR-10 and PX-10 had the arguably nicer Stronglight cranks, and the PX-10 was full Reynolds 531.

AGE / VALUE:   Classic Bike Meet (redux) posted by: John S on 10/20/2003 at 5:34:47 AM
I went, that was my Nishiki pictured. An earlier post pondered the bar/shifter set-up, well, it's not original, it's actually a pair of Arc Bars with SunTour thumb shifters. I believe it should have SR Randonneur bars with Bar Cons. The bike got a nice reaction, but took some questioning over the bar set-up, so I'll change it to a more appropriate set-up.

The bikes, the bikes! Not one Pogliaghi, but at least five. Imagine Masi's, Colnago's and Cinelli's not standing out!? There were so many of these in pristine condition. My favorite was the Carleton. The Masi that won best of show had a fully chrome (yes chrome over aluminum!) plated campy group. Owner purchased this 1980 show bike directly from Alberto Masi in Milan. Yes, some serious collectors who spend the bucks.

Some brands...Rickert, Mondia, Allegro, Gilliot, Mercian, Flying Scot, Ohrt, Lippy, Holland, Richard Sachs, Rivendell, Peugeot, Roger DeVlayminck Colnago, DeRosa, Legnano, Bayless, Peter Johnson, Bob Jackson, Jack Taylor, Colnago, Cinelli, Masi, Schwinn Paramount, Poglighi, Carleton, Condor, and that Green Nishiki...

Nice group of people, food was good, morning ride around Pasadena. A memorable day.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Classic Bike Meet (redux) posted by Birddog on 10/20/2003 at 2:30:01 PM
I'd sure like to have seen pics of that Mondia now that I'm an owner of one. I finally saw the date stamp on the R der, and it has Pat 72 on it. I'm now pretty sure the Mondia I have is a '73, possibly a late '72, given the fact that it has NO date code on crank, and '72 on hub locknuts. The serial # doesn't quite fit with those shown over at Classic Rendezvous, but some of those guys aren't positive either. Someone mentioned on this board when I first posted that they had two Mondias, and I believe bought one new. I could be mixing things up here, but anyway, if you are date certain, your serial #'s would be very helpful.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   BCM Frame? posted by: Jason on 10/19/2003 at 11:55:27 PM
Just pick up an old road bike at a swap meet it had a cool Colnago fork stamped with a "C" and a clover I don't think the frame is a Colnago but I would like to figure out what it is the frame is stamped BCM on the top of the head tube and the serial number is stamp on the top of the bottom bracket chrome on the down tube and stays? any info would be great

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   BCM Frame? posted by Oscar on 10/20/2003 at 1:20:09 AM
BCM is short for Bocama, a steel forger who made lugs. I have BCM lugs on my Gitane Tour de France.

AGE / VALUE:   Mistery Raleigh posted by: Bill on 10/19/2003 at 10:23:19 PM
I have an older english made (maybe 80s modal) road/race raleigh called raleigh winner. The serial # starts with np. It has 27" wheels & has 10 speeds. Can anybody tell me anything about it.

Please thanks Bill

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Mistery Raleigh posted by Derek Coghill on 10/21/2003 at 9:01:16 AM
I think I remember those; nothing special, a look-a-like bike because they were doing well racing at the time. Some people at my school had them.

FOR SALE:   Raleigh Technium 54cm,Tri lite posted by: Greg on 10/19/2003 at 10:27:07 PM
Early 90's Raleigh Technium.54 cm.Very good condition with the exception of a quarter size paint chip on the top tube and a few minor scraps in the paint.Black white and red in color.Suntour derailleurs(3000x)Downtube shifters,with index shifting for rear, friction up front.Criterium bars.Aero levers,Dia-Comp.Brakes as well.SR crankset.Nitto stem.Tri lite cro mo fork.6 speed freewheel.Rigida 700c x 25 Double wall rims.True with no hops.Newer tires.No seat or pedals.I ride this bike everyday to work and it flys!I have a pic but it does no justice to this bike.The stem and hubs as well as the head set have some corrosion on then but nothing I think that can't be cleaned up.A very solid bike.Could use some new handlebar tape.No rack braze ons.Will accept two water bottles.My phone is 815-623-8677.I live in the Rockford Illinois area.Thanks,Greg

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   continental 2 posted by: jay on 10/19/2003 at 6:46:32 PM
I recentally picked up a 1978 schwinn continental 2 at a
thrift store for $40.00 bucks.sweet condition.metallic red.
my question is,how hard would it be to locate some scwhinn
27 inch tires?my tires are fine,but can you still find them?
thanks jay

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   continental 2 posted by Gralyn on 10/20/2003 at 12:11:29 AM
try bikenashbar.com.....I believe that's it- I had a posting from a few days ago concerning sources for 27" tires. Also, I saw some on e-bay last night....I think maybe they were specifically "schwinn" tires. I was able to get some Schwinn 27 X 1 1/8 tires at an LBS - but it's been a couple of years ago...they had to order them....they were about $10 each.