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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

AGE / VALUE:   Speaking of Peugeot posted by: Corey on 11/2/2003 at 1:59:06 AM
...which nobody was...
Article in (I think) Cyclesport mag, tells about how the Peugeot name will go the way of the dinosaur. The nameplate will be allowed to die.
Among other things mentioned in the article, Eddy Merckx was never worried about catching a competitor (who was riding a Peugeot) on a descent, because, "I used to ride a Peugeot too." (Words to that effect, anyway.) I. e., he knew how indifferently they handled.
Even so, some good riders rode the nameplate, it tells about Phil Anderson and some others. Interesting stuff!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Speaking of Peugeot posted by luke on 11/3/2003 at 1:31:45 AM
Dear corey,
haven,t all great cycle companys turned into dino,s?
thats all the more reason to celebrate when you find one.
my peugeot collection is quite extensive and have allways
found that they are a very quality product.
''1885,began the great company producing there first
eddy merckx was only one rider of a 150 year dynasty.
Dont forget 1977 tour de france winner ''bernard thevnet''.
tom simpson?
There were countless winners of races who rode peugeot,s.
I being one of them,who took a paramount[1976] and a [1980]
bianchi in a 2 mile race last year in dallas,last year at
our annual[vintage velo race].
I was very in control of my 1971 u08 which i proudly own.
All i can tell you is,enjoy each history of each bicycle
company,and that sounds like a great article.
thanks luke

   Speaking of Peugeot posted by John E on 11/3/2003 at 2:43:52 AM
Part of the Peugeot mystique was the marque's great-looking decals; a white 1972 PX-10 (or even a UO-8) is still one of the classiest-looking classics out there. As for ride quality, my early 1970s red UO-8 is the best transportation beater bike I have ever owned, but I do have a short-rake aftermarket fork, which makes it steer considerably faster than a standard UO-8. (With 27x1-3/8" tyres, mine also has a bit of toe-to-tyre overlap, which some riders might find unnerving.) My 1980 PKN-10 is not as much fun as my Bianchi of the same vintage, but it is far more practical, with eyelets on the dropouts and clearance for 700Cx28mm tyres.

   RE:Speaking of Peugeot posted by paul viner on 11/3/2003 at 9:36:55 AM
i know that the peugeot folding bikes are not vintage kightweights but what was said about quality is so true. i have restored 3 of them and am always impressed at the design and the way things are done.i also have a 1920s tandem,although its heavy i reckon its done about 300 000 klms.maybe collectors of peugeots should try and get some sort of site or forum going,any interested parties

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Speaking of Peugeot posted by Corey on 11/6/2003 at 3:38:11 AM
Well, my memory was slightly faulty. That was actually procycling magazine, in the lateast issue with Cadel Evans on the cover. Incidentally, does anybody here read that one or Cyclesport magazine for their historical retrospectives? Being both British publications, they usually give a different perspective than what we usually see here (in Bicycling magazine for example), in the U.S.



AGE / VALUE:   sprint cicli welker with garzatti on seat tube posted by: Michael Looney on 11/1/2003 at 4:42:20 PM
I have a road bike with foam covered handlebars and says cw cicli welker on front and on seat tube a round sticker e garlatti and under that sprint. The parts are campy and the hubs are really worn. I beleive the bike is pretty old but very beautiful frame. Can any one help Thanks Michael

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   sprint cicli welker with garzatti on seat tube posted by T-Mar on 11/1/2003 at 8:13:16 PM
Very nice find! I have only seen only about 3 samples in my lifetime and that was back in the 1970s. The models I saw were top end (i.e. Nuovo Record equipped) and very nice indeed! From what I can find they are still produced (ref. www.garlatti.it ) .

You don't give indication as to the era or component models. If it is higher end Campagnolo (i.e Gran Sport, Record, Nuovo Record, Super Record)you have a very fine and rare bicycle that may warrant a restoration, depending on the cosmetic condition. It definitely deserves proper handlebar tape, if nothing else other that a good cleaning and overhaul! If it is a top line model in decent condition, the people at Classic Rendezvous would probably love to see/pot some pics.

AGE / VALUE:   ROSS SERIAL NUMBERS posted by: DAN on 11/1/2003 at 12:22:01 PM
Hi..Anybody have a link to serial number charts for ROSS? I have a R74301462 and also a R64138374 with chrome frame...Also have a skip tooth ladies with tyre size 26 x 2.125 with new departure model d rear hub.,,,,bought all 3 for $45 this week. The chrome was "discovered" after stripping the green paint off it. I seen green, black, white, gold and blue paint before the chrome appeared. I'm glad i didnt just start sanding it. Also trying to track down a decal set for Raleigh Sports mens bike 1972 aw s&a rear hub....i was an idiot and sanded them off thinking it would be easy to find replacements. Also can anybody date a Galaxy Flyer girls bike made by western flyer? blue..ok enough questions for now i guess...lol....about helmets....when i was alot younger it was "cool" to ride against the law without helmets and have no baffles and be like vroom vroom...now in my 40's I have the option of helmets for motorcyles and always wear it and have baffles inthe muffler....For bicycles if you go over 20 mph I highly recommend it.....however choice should be yours like with motorcycles....thatks and hope to get a few answers back from the forum..

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   ROSS SERIAL NUMBERS posted by Joe on 11/2/2003 at 6:10:17 AM
What type of bikes are the serial numbers from? On bikes that were built in Allentown, PA, the first 4 digits were the date, but your numbers begin with an "R". Sometime in the mid to late 1980's, the Ross name became property of Rand Bicycles, which still makes them today. The newer ones are nothing but department store quality bikes. There were also Ross bikes made in NY, before the move to the Allentown facility. If your bikes were made by the original Ross company, you should see "Chain Bike Corp" on the headbadge and often stamped on the left rear dropout along with the serial number. I have also seen earlier Ross road bikes marked "Import Division" which were lower end Asian imports brought in before the Allentown factory was completed. As for the Western Flyer, it sounds like prewar, you might want to try the "Balloon Tire and Middleweight" forum on this site and checkout http://www.nostalgic.net/ for pics to compare yours to.
as far as the Raleigh Sports, try the following link: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/NICK_AT_LLOYDS/decals.htm
They are located in England and have a pretty good assortment of transfers available. You can also ask in the English Roadster forum here as well.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   ROSS SERIAL NUMBERS posted by dan on 11/2/2003 at 4:14:52 PM
Yes, my very first bike we bought at the ROSS factory in Rockaway, where I used to live. We got 1 for me and one for my sister in approx 1966 out the back door of the factory and in cardboard! I wish I still had those 2 bikes. My next bike was the ROSS appollo 3 speed with gear shifter on frame and rear slick approx 1970.
The 1 ross is a ROS EUROSPORT and the headbadge does say NEW YORK, which would be Rockaway. I remeber the factory was near the elevated train track. That is why i figured the other bike , which has no markings is also from rockaway since it also starts with an "R". I love the chrome frame on it. Somebody turned it into an "army" bike and painted all of it.
I thought the Girls bike might be pre war as well. I pulled the number "3275834" off the frame seat post tube since i last posted. Also I got a free Scheuer bike named THE PRESIDENT that I would love info on.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   ROSS SERIAL NUMBERS posted by dan on 11/2/2003 at 4:15:38 PM
Yes, my very first bike we bought at the ROSS factory in Rockaway, where I used to live. We got 1 for me and one for my sister in approx 1966 out the back door of the factory and in cardboard! I wish I still had those 2 bikes. My next bike was the ROSS appollo 3 speed with gear shifter on frame and rear slick approx 1970.
The 1 ross is a ROS EUROSPORT and the headbadge does say NEW YORK, which would be Rockaway. I remeber the factory was near the elevated train track. That is why i figured the other bike , which has no markings is also from rockaway since it also starts with an "R". I love the chrome frame on it. Somebody turned it into an "army" bike and painted all of it.
I thought the Girls bike might be pre war as well. I pulled the number "3275834" off the frame seat post tube since i last posted. Also I got a free Scheuer bike named THE PRESIDENT that I would love info on.

AGE / VALUE:   ROSS SERIAL NUMBERS posted by: DAN on 11/1/2003 at 12:22:01 PM
Hi..Anybody have a link to serial number charts for ROSS? I have a R74301462 and also a R64138374 with chrome frame...Also have a skip tooth ladies with tyre size 26 x 2.125 with new departure model d rear hub.,,,,bought all 3 for $45 this week. The chrome was "discovered" after stripping the green paint off it. I seen green, black, white, gold and blue paint before the chrome appeared. I'm glad i didnt just start sanding it. Also trying to track down a decal set for Raleigh Sports mens bike 1972 aw s&a rear hub....i was an idiot and sanded them off thinking it would be easy to find replacements. Also can anybody date a Galaxy Flyer girls bike made by western flyer? blue..ok enough questions for now i guess...lol....about helmets....when i was alot younger it was "cool" to ride against the law without helmets and have no baffles and be like vroom vroom...now in my 40's I have the option of helmets for motorcyles and always wear it and have baffles inthe muffler....For bicycles if you go over 20 mph I highly recommend it.....however choice should be yours like with motorcycles....thatks and hope to get a few answers back from the forum..

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Sekai - What to do with it? posted by: Gralyn on 10/31/2003 at 12:46:56 PM
I pondered over which bike should be my next project...it had it down to either the Raleigh Grand Prix or the Japanese Sekai. I decided on the Sekai. It's a 21" frame - looks like the same frame for an older Nishiki Olympic. The lugs are somewhat fancy - at least they're not straight cut - lots of curves and cuts in them. The Sekai's frame has no braze-ons....none! It also has horizontal drop-outs (not track drop-outs). So, I was thinking of making a fixie.
I was thinking of some of the options:
1)Maybe re-paint and actually try making myself some decals.
2)Don't re-paint - keep original paint and decals (it's got some chips, peeled paint, rust spots, etc. and the decals have some scratches and peeling - but the head-tube decal is good)
3)Keep original paint - but maybe paint the lugs a different color (the frame is white).

I don't think the bike has any value, or anyone would particularly be wanting a 'Sekai' - so I wouldn't be loosing much by re-painting, etc.
I'm not sure of the date of this bike....maybe around early 70's. Any ideas or opinions?

I kind of like the idea of painting the lugs a different color - but keeping the original paint and decals on the frame - and making it a fixie.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Sekai - What to do with it? posted by TimW on 10/31/2003 at 11:19:07 PM
I vote for painting the lugs. Sounds like fun! Maybe each lug could be a different colour. Why not?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Sekai - What to do with it? posted by Warren on 11/1/2003 at 2:07:37 AM
Funny spelling. I've seen many Japanese Sakai's up here north of the 49th parallel. Some are fine bikes too...Tange Champion 1 and 2 etc. I think you won't regret "fixing" it up over the Grand Prix.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Sekai - What to do with it? posted by John S on 11/1/2003 at 3:49:11 AM
I love making fixie's or single speeds from old road frames like these, no braze-ons make for such a clean look. A track-like bike but with road-worthy geometry makes for a fine rider for town use. Light, simple, reliable, much more elegant than an old baloon cruizer.

Just an opinion, leave the head tube with good decal and paint everything else, including head lugs, a different colour.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Sekai - What to do with it? posted by T-Mar on 11/1/2003 at 3:55:13 PM
Sakae and Sekai are both correct and were separate brands.

AGE / VALUE:   Steve Bauer info posted by: TimW on 10/31/2003 at 12:45:35 AM

I just got high-speed Internet at home, so I bet that I'll be posting more (have always posted when time allows at work).

I have converted a late 80's Steve Bauer frame as a commuter / credit card tourer. It is called a 'Chinook', is made from Tange 900 (I don't find that in any Tange lists I've seen), and is made in Japan.

Does anyone know where to get info on Steve Bauer bikes? What was teh model line up? Who made them in Japan? Also, where does 900 fit into Tange's tubing line? The bike is light, responsive, and climbs beautifully. Thanks for any info.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steve Bauer info posted by T-Mar on 10/31/2003 at 4:32:21 AM
Ok, let's start with the tubing because that is the most straight forward. Tange 900 was the second from the bottom of the line CrMo butted tubeset. It was a seamed tubeset, made from strip stock. At the time, Tange had at least seven tubesets above it, but it is still a good, sevicable tubeset.

Regarding the Bauer bicycles, giving a model lineup is just about impossible, as models varied from year to year. The bikes first asppeared in the mid 1980s, in an effort to capitalize on Bauer's emergence as a top pro cyclist. The bicycles were marketed by the Niagara Bicycle Company Inc. and were all Japanese in origin, except for the top model. The line included race bikes, mountain bikes and hybrid/city bikes. There was even a junior racer intended for 8-13 year olds. All the bicycles were named after winds and air movements (ie. Vortex, Cyclone, Turbulence, etc.), hence your Chinook is named after after the warm, winter and spring winds that blow down from the Rocky Mountains . By the early 90's the bikes were being marketed in the CTC chain alongside the Supercycles and CCMs. They disappeared from the market shortly thereafter.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steve Bauer info posted by TimW on 10/31/2003 at 4:13:21 PM
Well, I suppose that's all a bit of a let down. Entry level tubing, and a 'Canadian Tire' bicycle. Somehow it seems much better than that. My buddy on his new, Italian hand-built Cramerotti is struggling to keep up with me on our Sunday rides since I put the Steve Bauer on the road.

Of course I'm also tempted to switch all the great parts I've assembled on this bike over to a 197? 531 db Raleigh Competition frame I have. What to do, what to do?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steve Bauer info posted by T-Mar on 10/31/2003 at 5:15:04 PM
Hold on Tim, I've think you've read some things into my post that weren't there! Tange 900 is not entry level tubing. While it was low on the list of their CrMo butted tubesets, but they had a whole range of plain gauge tubesets that were even lower and used the true entry level bicyles. While the Bauers were sold in the CTC stores, that was was one of the final attempts to keep the company solvent. In the early days they were sold in the bicycle stores.

Entry level bicycles are aimed at the casual cyclist. Your Chinook fell in that grey area where the sports models fade out and the racing models fade in. It was a budget conscious model, but one for someone who rode regularly or maybe someone who wanted to give club racing a try.

Sounds like you're a fellow Canadian, and probably from the T.O. area, given reference to the Bauer and Cramerotti. Cramerotti's, big market is Canada, particulary T.O. due to the La Biciletta store. Vancouver is also a pretty hot market, as there used to be a L.B. store out there.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steve Bauer info posted by Rob on 10/31/2003 at 6:08:18 PM
There still is a "La Bicicletta", in Vancouver...233 W. Broadway...but I think I heard they weren't connected with the one in T.O. Also Campione Cycles ( now in a 'prestige' location at W 8th and Burrard in Van. sell Camerotti...really nice bikes...I've come close a couple of times to getting a second hand one, but there is a premium for them, at least in this market...

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steve Bauer info posted by Rob on 10/31/2003 at 6:35:39 PM
Darn typos...that should, of course, rad "Cramerotti"...

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steve Bauer info posted by TimW on 10/31/2003 at 11:15:34 PM
Thanks for the clarification T-Mar. I know my Chinook is d.b., and as a design somewhere between racing and sport-touring, it suits my purposes very well.

Given how much I enjoy riding it, I shouldn't be affected by the fact it is a good 'budget-minded' bike, and there's no sacrilege about having stripped and rebuilt with all different parts (8 spd 600 wheels, early SIS 600 der converted to long cage, early XT triple cranks, dual pivot 105 brakes, sawed-off tri-bars, with XT thumbshifters and brake levers).

Still, too bad it's not 'Tange Prestige' - I'm a 'grass is greener' kind of guy. Mind you, this bike replaces an even more 'budget minded' old Mangaloy Norco I rode until it broke.

I am in Vancouver (as is Rob, clearly). Campione Cylces is actually run by Guieseppe Cramerotti, and his brother runs their frame making operations somewhere in Italy, exporting to Vancouver and Toronto. That's why Bicycletta doesn't carry Cramerotti's in Vancouver.

Guiseppe has great history in cycling, will help with any issue, and has THE BEST prices on the components you need. I don't get a commission for saying this ;o) Cramerotti's are another road bike maker that doesn't seem to get much mention on this site.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Steve Bauer info posted by Warren on 11/1/2003 at 4:38:00 AM
They don't get mentioned because they are modern bikes...at least here in Canada. I bought a new EL-OS Campag Chorus equipped Crammy in '96 and it was a fast, light, beautiful bike. I did some weekend warrior racing and then started a family. Enough of that. I sold it and acquired for a 1980 NR equipped SL Gianella (made by Marinoni) because I felt guilty using Ergo power for casual riding. Real (old) men don't need more than 6 speeds. Actually, I don't think they need more than one but that's a different thread.

My bikes are getting exponentially older than me.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steve Bauer info posted by T-Mar on 11/1/2003 at 4:50:32 PM
Rob, thank-you for the update. My first exposure to Cramerotti was about 1988, though I believe they go back to 1984, when the La Bicicletta store opened in Vancouver. I guess that technically they would be considered a modern bicycle, if you use a ruler to draw a line at the 20 year point to separate modern and vintage. However, the early models will achieve vintage status next year and I think they deserve the status of modern classics.

While I've never owned one personally, I have known a few people from the T.O. area that do. They appear to be an excellent value and I'm sure there would be quite an argument between owners of the respective makes as to which Guiseppe produces the best Canadian frame, Cramerotti or Marinoni. Regardless, they are both fine makes with similar approaches to the market: Italian design, small volumes, quality over quantity, excellent value, word of mouth advertising, etc. Both have basically regional markets, Marinoni in Ottawa and Montreal, Cramerotti in Vancouver and T.O.. For these reasons you do not hear a lot of them outside these areas. Their owners also tend to be very loyal and knowledgable cyclists, who are interested in the higher end.

Let's face it, the majority of posts on this site are concerned with big brand, entry or intermediate level, production bicycles that people pick up cheap and want advice on. We may get the odd post on something like John E.'s gorgeous Capo, but they are few and far between. The limited production, high end stuff from the lesser name manufacturers does not crop up because the owners know the value, the history and the in and outs of bicycle mechanics and cycling in general. In my opiniion, the posts on machines like these are rare, not because the machines are modern, but because bicycles are relatively rare and owners are knowledgable. The chances of finding one of these machines for a song are relatively rare, though it will happen occasionally and if you find one, you should snap it up immediately. As for posts on these machines, the Classic Rendezvous site is probably more appropriate.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steve Bauer info posted by Mike on 11/2/2003 at 9:46:48 PM
Cramerotti has found a following here in Asheville, North Carolina. I have a Gardena and a TVT Ultra, and we've sold several others.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Steve Bauer info posted by Derek Coghill on 11/3/2003 at 1:22:58 AM
Never heard of them (Cramerotti)! Do they only sell their bikes in Canada and Italy, or elsewhere too?

AGE / VALUE:   Cannondale...what do I have?? posted by: john on 10/29/2003 at 1:58:38 AM
Would appreciate any help identifying an aluminum frame Cannondale I just got this evening. 15 speed roadbike, no model markings, just Cannondale decal on top tube and head tube. Components: Sugino AR Apex chain wheel, Suntour Cyclone mII Frnt derailler, down tube shifters, Tange Seiki Levin Fork, Sachs Huret Doupar ECO rear derailler, NGC 500 brakes, Wolber Model 85 wheels. I sure would like to know approximate age and where it stood in the c-dale lineup. Thanks. john

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Cannondale...what do I have?? posted by Warren on 10/29/2003 at 4:03:12 AM
Sounds like an early to mid 80's C-dale by the components. The frames were pretty much all the same back then (no cad 2, cad 4 models) and it was the components that determined the hierarchy. If the frame is good, then you've got a nice light roadbike. If I'm not mistaken, the rear dropouts were unusually long and beefy back then and many of the frames were black with white or gold decals. Find the serial number and contact Cannondale for a date.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cannondale...what do I have?? posted by Keith on 10/29/2003 at 5:46:35 PM
I have a white'84 'Dale that came with a Campy NR/SR gruppo. The most remarkable thing about these original Cannondales are the welds. Man, these guys weren't taking any chances! Huge and beefy. A real contrast to today's neat little rows of welding beads. The basic appearance was the same on all models, however, the touring models did have longer chainstays and greater clearances. Mine is a racing model and has close clearances and fairly short chainstays. I think most people would agree that they provide a stiff albeit harsh ride. The harshness can be mitigated somewhat by choosing slightly wider tires, so, if you usually ride 700 x 23, go to a 70 x 25 or 27 if you want to soften the road feel. For the same reason, don't inflate your tires to 120psi (usually not a great idea anyway).

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cannondale...what do I have?? posted by T-Mar on 10/29/2003 at 9:05:47 PM
Good advice from both Warren and Keith. I went back through my old Cannondale literature and the closest match I could come up with was a 1985 ST500. Suprisingly, the eclectic derailleur selection matches the catalog specs, but not any of the other mentioned components. Regardless it is definitely between 1983 (first year of production) and 1988 ("hand crafted aluminum heat treated" appears on top tube and patented design" appears on the stays, There is also what appears to be a "made in USA" on seat tube extension). The other possibilty is that it was purchased as a bare frameset and built to suit the original owner. Bare frames were available during the first year, though I wasn't able to confirm how long this practice extended.

I had a friend who purchased an early C-dale. I remember helping him strip the paint, polishing the aluminum and clear coating it. Then he installed a Campagnolo 50th Anniversary Group. It was georgeous! My friend never comnplained about the harsh ride characteristics, but he was also 6'4" and about 250 lbs. He was happy to find something that didn't ride like wet noodle. It's probably the perfect frame for someone his size.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cannondale...what do I have?? posted by john on 10/29/2003 at 9:46:31 PM
Thanks for the info gentlemen, especially the tire size tip. I've been riding varisty's and world sports so long, this bike is like super high tech to me. A guy I work with who doesn't ride anymore GAVE it to me because he said it deserves a good home. And the best part is it's a big frame which I need and it fits perfectly. It's been sitting for quite a few years, so a complete teardown and rebuild (with new tires) is in order. This is going to be fun....ain't bikes great!!! john

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cannondale...what do I have?? posted by Walter on 10/30/2003 at 4:02:44 PM
Cdale sold frame/forks thru 1985 anyways b/c I bought an SR600 model then. I built it with a Shimano 600EX group that a catalog was discounting due to the arrival of SIS.

At $250 for the frame and about the same for the group I had a 21-22lb bike for pretty minimal $. I still have the frame but it hasn't had many miles lately. I'm sure you'll enjoy it. I never found it harsh but I weighed over 200# and that acts as shock absorption by itself. :)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cannondale...what do I have?? posted by Max M. on 10/31/2003 at 5:10:22 AM
I have an 84 Cann ST500 (gave to my fiancee) six years ago. She has logged close to 8000 miles on it and still thinks it is the greatest thing. The Sport Touring model is most easily identified by the front and rear rack mounts. It came with a full Shimano 600(non SIS) group with Standard Reach calipers. We fit 700 x 32 max. They are great frames with lots of charm but watch you don't overwhelm the seatpost clamp or bend the rear derailleur hanger as these are the most common failures.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Pedals posted by: Gralyn on 10/28/2003 at 6:17:18 PM
I have recently found myself running short on pedals for my old lightweights. It seems most of the bikes I have picked up lately had really crappy pedals. (the kind that are either very heavy...and look like they came off a department store bike, or the kind that have the extra steel going down from the bottom - which adds weight - but keeps your pedal flipped up....but also hits the pavement all the time....those). I have ended up with very few decent sets. Here lately, I've been taking a set off one bike - to put on another bike whenever I want to ride it...and so and and so on.
Does anyone else have this problem? I know I also have the same problem when it comes to half-way decent alloy wheels. I suppose I will just keep looking - hoping to run across a few parts bikes with decent pedals.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Pedals posted by T-Mar on 10/28/2003 at 8:27:33 PM
Your plight with pedals does not suprise me. The bicycle business is very cut-throat and manufacturers look for every avenue to cut costs. The traditional targets are pedals, seatpost, tubes, bottom bracket and headset. The rationale is that these areas are very low on the awareness list of the typical consumer. High on the list are rear derailleurs, cranks and brakes. Consequently, if the manufacturer can save some budget by sacrificing the quality of the pedals, he may be able upgrade the rear derailleur, which is more conspicuous and likely to result in a sale.

The weighted pedals are a safety feature found on most entry level bikes. Given the bicycle's intended use, I believe it's a valid feature for the typical recreational cyclist.

With the advent of clipless pedals and the incompatibility of the three basic systems (Look, Time, SPD) pedal selection became a nightmare for the manufacturers as they could not possibly know which pedal was favoured by their customers. So they just decided to do away with them. Consequently, modern bicycles aimed at the avid cyclist rarely come with pedals. Those that do have pedals usually have very cheap ones. The rationale is that the avid cyclist will retain use of his old clipless pedals and the recreational cyclist couldn't care less about pedal quality. So there's little market for a good, toe clip compatible, road pedal (even Nashbar no longer carries them). Meanwhile, the die hard fans of toe clips and straps are snatching up all the good toe clip compatible pedals they can find. The aluminum cages on those Campagnolo Superleggeri pedals don't last very long!

The problem with wheels is a little different. Once the wheel get trashed, if the owner is a recreational cyclist, he often is reluctant to pay the price for an exact replacement and substitutes a less expensive steel rimmed model. Of course, with the advent of 700C rims, this is not practical. In fact, now that I think of it, I can't say that I have ever seen a 700C, steel rim!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Pedals posted by Rob on 10/28/2003 at 10:18:26 PM
I like Tom's analysis...and, Gralyn, I know what you mean...however, at the moment, I seem to be awash in good pedals, probably because I actually prefer SPD clipless...I can usually get good used SPDs for $20-25CDN ($15 to 19US), and I'll swap them from bike to bike. For a while, though, before I went clipless, I would buy good pedals when I found them at second hand bike shops...typically no more than $5CDN ($3.75US) a set. I've collected quite a few...Japanese quills, track pedals, 5 or 6 sets of Shimano 600EX platforms, even a rather beat set of Campy platforms. On Saturday, I passed up on (rather reluctantly) a free set of Shimano 600EX platforms, attached, inexplicably, to a trashed Peugeot AO/UO-8...I guess if a 15mm open-end wrench had dropped out of the sky I would have grabbed them...

On my regular riders, I almost always fit SPDs, on the occasional or light use bikes, I don't mind using platform pedals with clips and straps (not cinched down) and street shoes...

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Pedals posted by plavery on 10/28/2003 at 11:42:28 PM
I've picked up Campy, Shimano, and decent KKT pedals on
Ebay. I got out bid on some Suntour Superbes though.
As long as you don't get caught in a bidding frenzy you
can still pick up some quality pedals at a decent price.
I don't use clipless pedals as a point of principle
I grew up with toe clips and have them on all my bikes

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Pedals posted by Warren on 10/29/2003 at 1:58:15 AM
I agree...both KKT, Suntour and MKS (Mikashima) made some very high quality pedals to go along with their well made frames from the 70's and early 80's. I have an NOS pair of MKS Unique pedals...a direct copy of the campy SL's and I think they are even nicer in fit and finish. I suspect their bearings will stand the test of time as well.

    Pedals posted by John E on 10/29/2003 at 3:56:37 AM
Everyone tells me I should replace the aluminum Campag. toeclips and original aluminum Campag. Gran Sport pedals on my 1981 Bianchi, but I am afraid to have strap-in pedals on some bikes and snap-ins on others, and I do want to keep toeclips on the 1959 Capo and the mountain bike.

   RE: Pedals posted by Warren on 10/29/2003 at 4:06:32 AM
I can understand replacing the aluminum toeclips...they were terribly fragile but I love Gran Sport pedals. What is this talk about flakey cages on campag pedals? They seem bombproof to me.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Pedals posted by T-Mar on 10/29/2003 at 5:26:08 AM
Agreed, the Gran Sport/Record pedals, with chromed, steel cages were very nice and durable. However, the SL pedals with the black anodized, aluminum cages don't have the durability. The cages wear too rapidly for my liking.

I own two sets of the MKS/Mikashima Unique pedals and while they were probably the best value in pedals, I wouldn't put them in the same league as the Campagnolo, on absolute terms. Initially, they look similar to the SL, but there are probably at least a dozen differences. The most notable is the lack of the "flip tab" on the lower edge of the back side of the cage. This extra little piece of metal makes all the difference in world when trying to enter the pedals. The quality of the bearings also pale in comparison to the Campagnolo product. But they were less than half the price and the bearings would last as long as the SL cage, so I might take them over the SL, but not the Gran Sport/Record.

My all time favourite pedal was the Shimano Dyna Drive pedal for the early 80's Dura Ace and 600 groups. Another infamous failure for Shimano, the oversize thread and consequential incompatibility with any other crankarm was a marketing nightmare, but the basic philosphy of having the ball of the foot directly on the axis of pedal rotation, as opposed to above it, was very sound. These had to be the most stable and efficient pedals that I have ver used. I believe Phil Wood preceded Shimano with the design concept and used normal threading, but it just wasn't accepted by the consumer. Too bad.

Personally, I've retained the toe clips and straps on all my pre 1990 bicycles, while the more modern ones have clipless. When I ride the old bikes, I like to feel the part. I dig out the old wool shorts and jersey. However, I refuse to go retro with helmet. I can't imagine that I ever raced using using one of those leather hairnets.

   snap-in vs. strap-in ("clipless" vs. toeclips) posted by John E on 10/29/2003 at 2:57:21 PM
Apparently T-Mar has no problem switching between clips and clipless, but I would be worried about keeping my release reactions straight from one bike to another. Does anyone else share my concern about having a mix of clips and clipless in the stable? (Actually, since all of my road bikes are pre-1982 and the mountain bike is a 1988, toe clips are historically correct for all five.)

   RE:snap-in vs. strap-in ( posted by Gralyn on 10/29/2003 at 4:56:27 PM
I only have the "strap-ins". I haven't merged into the snap-in's yet. I have a few racing bikes with aero brakes - which would be candidates for snap-ins - but I just haven't gone that route yet. I don't even have any bikes with STI shifters yet - I can't affort it right now.
It's not too difficult to swap a pedal set around from bike to bike. One thing I could do: if I sell a bike or 2....sell it without it's pedals...and keep the pedals.

   RE:snap-in vs. strap-in ( posted by Warren on 10/29/2003 at 5:12:49 PM
You can adapt to both quite easily...I even ride a fixie without cages or clip-ins...helps with downtown traffic reaction time.

There are a number of cheapo cage pedals available here in Canada...Wellgo and Victor are two of them. They're OK for daily riders. Go to http://www.mec.ca/Main/home.jsp?bmUID=1067447108897 and follow the links to cycling parts and Victor pedals. Unfortunately they can't ship these to the US...probably a trade issue but they are dirt cheap and almost look the part if you take the reflectors off. I'm surprised shops near you don't have these.

   RE:RE:snap-in vs. strap-in ( posted by JONathan on 10/29/2003 at 5:30:52 PM
The whole issue is academic for me, as I can't deal with the "snappers" very well. The need to reposition my feet is paramount to my comfort while riding.
Just a personal preference. I have removed the spuds from my two bikes that sported them and I replaced them with toe-clipped pedals...good quality Japanese works. However, to address John E.'s request for input, I can attest to one parallel in the brake lever arena. I share your opinion about the pedals, too.
I have almost crashed into things because I thought the extension levers were on the bars! VERY disconcerting. I have removed the ext. levers from most of the bikes that I ride, which are all vintage bikes.
They are convenient in very slow going in tight conditions, but anything over 5 mph, forget them. In closing, I make every attempt to avoid having to think about the mechanics of my riding, which frees up my mental resources (which aren't prodigious) to deal with the road. Fortunately, for me, I still have the ability to re-train myself to running without the extensions.
The human brain can do amazing things.
Cheers, JONathan

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Pedals posted by Keith on 10/29/2003 at 5:53:56 PM
Rivendell carries good quality knockoffs of the old Campy design, as well as one that resembles the common Lyotard "rat traps." I think MKS makes them. For commuting I prefer cheap mtb pedals without toeclips or straps basically for the same reason Warren cites. My vintage bikes have toeclips and straps, but I also use SPD pedals on two of my contemporary machines.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Pedals posted by Warren on 10/29/2003 at 6:48:54 PM
A quick search on ebay revealed these item numbers...


plus a couple of other pairs of campy pedals.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Pedals posted by Joe on 10/30/2003 at 6:03:49 AM
I agree, pedals that match the older lightweights are hard to come by. I recently found a pair on eBay to match the originals on my '81 Trek, I believe the same seller has more listed, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3624499554&rd=1
These are a decent quality quill pedal that was exact to those that came on many Treks in their early days. I also used a pair on on of my Raleigh Super Grand Prix's. They are lighter than the original steel quill pedals. I am always keeping my eyes open for early Lyotard and Atom alloy pedals, but finding these in good condition is rare. There are several modern pedals that would be "close" to the correct appearance, but not of the same quality of the older pedals.
Myself, I have gotten used to riding without clips or anything, I always had trouble getting my feet in and out of the toe clips with a size 15 shoe. I haven't ever even considered clipless for the same reason.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount posted by: jack on 10/28/2003 at 9:41:24 AM
I have two '71 Paramounts, one a 10-sp P10 and the other a 15 sp P15? touring. My question is, why does the P10 have the usual fancy nervex lugs while the touring model has the plainer lugs? The P15 also has rr brake cable braze-ons and crimped chainstays which would normally tell me it was a later model but the serial number says '71?


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount posted by Tom on 10/28/2003 at 1:34:01 PM
My understanding is that Schwinn did not like the Nervex product. Time (read cost) to finish the lugs was high and the bottom bracket was poorly machined. As a result, Schwinn switched to the Prugnat lug and bottom bracket some time in the late 1960's. However, customers preferred the more ornate Nervex lugs and Schwinn compromised by switching back to Nervex lugs, but retaining the Prugnat bottom bracket. It would appear that your P15 is from this transisiton period. Since there were relatively few Paramounts made with the Prugnat lugs, this makes your sample more rare and collectible.

   lugs posted by John E on 10/28/2003 at 4:35:12 PM
As many of you already know, Peugeot went through a similar lug transition with the PR-10 and PX-10 in the early 1970s.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount posted by John S on 10/29/2003 at 5:10:31 AM
I've had a P-15 and P-13. The 15 is touring and so planned for fat 27" tyres, hence the chainstay crimping to make more tyre clearance. Longer wheelbase and greater fork rake, rack eyelets. The brake cable fittings, with exposed cable along the side of the top tube, were also a classic set-up for touring, not sure why, ease of service? I believe the off-center cable routing eases the set-up for centerpull brakes.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Paramount posted by jack on 10/29/2003 at 8:06:20 AM
You guys are right on! Both of these Paramounts have the same, rather plain BB shell, Prugnat I assume. I compared these BB shells with an early Raleigh International and indeed, the International has the fancier Nervex shell. You're also right about the offset open brake braze-ons and the crimped chainstays for greater clearance w/27", not much space on the P10.
I'd been wonderin' for years about the reasons for these differences....thanks again,

Jack fr Sacramento

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount posted by T-Mar on 10/29/2003 at 1:24:49 PM
John S., your statements regrading the stay crimping and cable stops make sense to me, but I have 1975 ads for the P10/P15 that shows both cable stops and cable clips. In both cases the bicylcle has the short coupled stays. Now I am far far from knowledgable on Schwinn, but the few sources I've read have stated that the short coupled stays were optional on the P-10/P-15 touring models. If so, then the touring models came with either clips or stops. Maybe brake cable routing style was a customer option? Any ideas?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Paramount posted by jack on 10/30/2003 at 12:37:11 AM
T-Mar, by "short-coupled stays" do you mean shorter-length chainstays? If so, I have some measurements of these 2 bikes:

Model Serial# Seat-T Top-T Chainstay Wheelbase
P10 J71xx 22.5 22.5 17.5 39.5 P15 E71xx 22.5 22.0 18.0 40.0

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Paramount posted by T-Mar on 10/30/2003 at 3:52:47 AM
Your bicycles are too early to use the short-couple design, which was introduced in the mid-70s. It featured a seatube that exited the bottom bracket perpendicular to the ground. The seat tube curved and followed the profile of the rear wheel for about 45 degrees and then straightened out so the seat postition, relative to the bottom bracket, was the same as a normal frame. By curving the seat tube, the rear wheel could be moved closer to the bottom bracket and the stays shortened. Schwinn touted that it enhanced climbing by shifting the weight distribution more towards the rear.

No doubt climbing was enhanced, but it probably had as much to do with the shorter and stiffer stays as the weight distribution. What always puzzled me was that Schwinn chose to use this design for the touring models, as opposed to the road racing bikes. I would think that this design would have made an excellent criterium bicycle. The shorter wheelbase and stiffer stays would have made an excellent combination for carving corners and accelerating out of them. From an aerodynamic viewpoint, it would have been a desirable time trial design. The only negative I can up with, is that it may have shifted the weight too far to the rear, which would cause the front wheel to lose contact during had accelerations when the riding was pulling hard on the bars. Of course, this is just supposition, as I have never had the pleasure of riding one. Does anybody else have any insight as to why this was not used on the racing models?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount posted by John S on 10/30/2003 at 4:05:17 AM
T-Mar, one of these days I'll get my 76 Paramount catalogue out of storage so we can compare. You can check out the Schwinn Lightweight Data Book on the web in the interim. Though not detailed in frame description, the Paramount catalogue displayed for 71 does describe accomodations for wider clincher tyres, wide gear ranges, higher brake bridge, and no practical application for Campy racing brakes. I do know, that you could specify options. The P-15 I had could only use a long-reach sidepull with a drop bolt. My P-13 easily takes a sidepull, per Jack's measurements, the wheelbase is shorter, not so much fork rake, shorter chainstay.

As for the curved seat-tube arrangement, I'm with you, why for touring? If you put panniers on your heal would hit them, so it doesn't make sense.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Paramount posted by jack on 10/30/2003 at 5:51:28 AM
I understand "short-coupled" now T-Mar. A few mos ago one was on Ebay with the curved seat tube. I believe Paletti accomplished same using split seat tube and it was reportedly a good climber. John S, indeed the brake bridge is higher on P15 as I will need a drop-bolt to convert to Campy side-pull. I'm undecided on this as they want $61 for bolt. I wonder why the fork is ok with switching to side-pulls while rear needs drop-bolt?

While I have your attention on Paramounts, the two bikes I described also have different fork crowns. By what you've described, I'm assuming they are also either Prugnat or Nervex as the Nervex-lugged bike has a little more elaborate fork crown.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount posted by T-Mar on 10/30/2003 at 11:41:18 PM
John S., your comment on hitting the panniers reminded me of a problem on I experience periodically on my time trial bicycle, a GT Vengeance. It is a modern "short coupled" design using an airfoil shape seat tube that is notched to follow the profile of the rear wheel. The chainstays are a very short 14.5" and if I'm riding in the smallest cog, I sometimes hit the derailleur body with my heel and cause a gear shift!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount posted by John S on 11/1/2003 at 4:01:06 AM
Funny about bike design, Jack. I've had several bikes where a standard reach sidepull was fine in front, but couldn't reach in the back. I've noticed several sets of Weinmann and Universal centerpull brakesets where the front and back are standard and long reach respectively. Wonder what the design deal was? You can braze the seat-stay bridge anywhere so I don't get the point.

By the way, the P-15 will have a different bend in the fork legs. I like the curve of the P-13 better.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Paramount posted by T-Mar on 11/2/2003 at 1:59:41 AM
A while back someone (I believe it was John E. - my apologies if I'm incorrect) posted a couple of plausible explanations for long rerach brakes on the back.

1. The extra clearance is for the fender. A rear fender covers more tire and is therefore more harder to position properly without scraping the tire. The extra clearance compensates for the difficulty.

2. The longer arms introduce more flex and less force at the pads. This reduces the possibility of skidding the wheel, especially for novice riders who are likely to apply the same pressure to both brake levers.

Personally, after I thought about it, I subscribe to the latter. Campagnolo currently achieves the same effect with the "differential" calipers on their Chorus and Record groups. While both calipers have the same reach, the rear calipers are designed 40g lighter to reduce the possibilty of rear wheel lock-up.

Regarding the forks, most people probably prefer the less radical bend in the P-13 forks from an aesthetic standpoint. However, the P-15 forks will give a more comfortable ride, which is how a touring bicycle should be.

MISC:   Brampton Hub posted by: Mike Patterson on 10/28/2003 at 1:01:18 AM
I have a Brampton 'flip-flop' hub, 40H in steel with a high flange for trade. It has an axle in it but is incorrect, but otherwise is in very good shape. All the threads work although the lock-ring threads look iffy, they do work cleanly. I would like to trade for a recent track rear wheel, 700c with an alloy hub. Mike

MISC:   Helmets--Again!! posted by: Rob on 10/27/2003 at 11:16:31 PM
I went out for my lunchtime jog...70 minutes, and decided to count helmets, again (see my Friday post). For those of you who are interested, here are the numbers (and, for those of you who aren't, I promise this is the last time...:)...)...

13 out of 35 adult riders were NOT wearing helmets,
I saw no children,
1 in-line skater was wearing a helmet (I don't know what the local laws are on helmets for skaters, but they sure make sense to me).

Quite similar to the previous survey...around 40% non-compliance in a jurisdiction with a mandatory helmet law!!! What good are the laws if they aren't, or can't be enforced? I guess with a enough evidence a person could make a fuss, and maybe get a court order compelling the authorities to uphold the law, however for my part I kind of favor awareness programs, and it seems they are still necessary. The non-compliance, again, seemd slanted towards older males, who also were generally riding quite slowly...I saw one man who must have been 80, or darn close, slowly pedalling along on a new single-speed 'cruiser', helmetless. On the other hand maybe the message is getting through to the younger crowd. I'm sure a lot of the older guys aren't even aware there is a helmet law...older males, as I guess some of us realize...are pretty good at tuning out stuff they can't be bothered with...:)

   RE:MISC:   Helmets--Again!! posted by JONathan on 10/28/2003 at 3:18:48 AM
Very interesting stats, Rob. Here, in S.F. Peninsula there are a lot of bikes and most all riders are helmuted, it seems to me. Especially where there are bikes mixing with MV's, the riders wear helmuts. I see a rider without a helmut and I think about how expensive health insurance is today. All I can hope is that people use common sense in trying to reduce the risks of whatever activity they pursue. I know SCUBA diving has risks, but there are ways to reduce the effects of them, which is all I can expect. The problem with bicycling, as opposed to SCUBA (there are exceptions, of course) is anybody can jump on a bike and ride without a clue about inherent risks and how to mangae those risks.
Education is the key element along with training and practice. Personally, I don't mind so much if my insurance may go up if a guy crashes hard, if he had a helmut. There are a lot of active people, so injuries are a part of a more active lifestyle. I accept it either way, but I have a lot more respect for those who had a helmut strapped on. My turn is coming...it's been two years and counting. What's going on? I know I'm dumber, I ride more than ever before and I ain't as quick as I used to be. Just the odds. Glad you came off yours without majors.
You had a helmut, too!

   RE:MISC:   Helmets--Again!! posted by Don on 10/28/2003 at 6:17:31 AM
Seen Friday as I exited the driveway from work to Martin Way for my lunch ride home: an old fellow, Walter Brennan lookalike, riding along in the bike lane on a Columbia 3 wheeler Trike. Wearing bib overalls, no helmet and with his walker stowed in the basket between the rear wheels! Going real slow, but getting there eventually. I waved & thought: Hope I'm still riding at that age. Don

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn LeTour posted by: Rob on 10/27/2003 at 6:03:52 PM
I scored a Schwinn LeTour frame and forks this weekend...$0...on the recycle pile of an LBS. There's a bit of a story...they were trying to sell this bike, more or less, intact (rear tire and tube missing, brakes needing work), but were asking too much...$60CDN ($45US)...that was Thursday...on Saturday, I found its remains on the recycle pile!!! I guess they gave up on it... I might also have the rear wheel without the freewheel, but it doesn't match the specs I found in Bob Hufford's site... This bike, 23", red, was originally bought in Columbus, IN, and has a 1977 Columbus license. It has a previous owner's name and phone no. engraved near the head tube...a Denver area code... I think after looking at the 'OldRoads' archives and other online material that it's a 1976 ...the head badge says, "Schwinn Approved" and on the seat tubes is, "Made in Japan".

I have a wrecked, slightly above average mid '70s Kuwahara product (Apollo, for the CDN readers) with SunTour V-GT ders, Sugino Maxy crank, Araya alloy rims, Dia Compe brakes, Gran Compe Stem, etc., which I could maybe use to built it up, if that makes sense... any comments?? Also, what kind of a ride can I expect??? And, what kind of tubing would have been used???

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn LeTour posted by Ken on 10/27/2003 at 7:04:25 PM
The components you list are sweet, and if you find the frame comfortable you should go far. It's no Cadillac, but nothing to be ashamed of either. Better yet, building it up is half the fun. Note, for whatever it's worth, that Sheldon says around 76 was the peak of Japanese production quality. Enjoy!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn LeTour posted by Kevin K on 10/27/2003 at 8:45:19 PM
Hi Rob. I've owned several Schwinn LeTour bikes. Still do. I've had 5 1974's. Passed them all onto new owners. Looking for a nice 75. Anyway the build you talk about doing with the frame sounds great. None of my bikes have original components. The LeTour wasn't anything special, kinda just like the Varsity. Neat to own and ride one. Now the bikes from the mid 80's and up were pretty nice bikes. My LeTour collection consists of a Scarlet 1977, a Frosty Blue LeTour IV and a 1984 LeTour Luxe in a blue green color. I think it's kinda neat you saved the bike from the junk pile. Have fun with it. Kevin

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn LeTour posted by JONathan on 10/27/2003 at 9:06:15 PM
I have a '77, "Le Tour II" that is "pearlescent orange"; made in Japan by Panasonic, I think.
Real nice ride, but it had come with steel bars! Regular steel called "X-tra Lite" sticker on the seat-tube near BB.
I would agree that it is well worth that price. I paid $25 US for mine about five years back. It was 1/2 of a pair with the other being a 23". Mine is 25 inch frame. It came with steel rim wheels with alloy HF hubs. Very well made bike from what I can observe.
It is all tuned and ready to ride, but it hangs on a rack. The '83 "Traveler" is a better ride, IMHO, so the Le Tour II has to play back-up. But, hey! He's still on the team. Good all-around ride.
Enjoy. I would change to alloy wheels and that's about all you need to upgrade for optimum use.

MISC:   Re-vamping old hoods? posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 10/27/2003 at 3:44:39 AM
Although this question doesn't neccesarily deal with a Vintage bike, I'm sure someone out there must have an idea what to do. The rubber hoods on my early '90's Dura-ace STI levers are getting shabby. Not cracked or torn, but shiny in some places and dull in others. I don't know if I can locate orginal hoods for replacent, but is there some kind of treatment? Hot soapy water? Armor-all?

   RE:MISC: Re-vamping old hoods? posted by Warren on 10/27/2003 at 9:46:15 PM
Hi Edward...if they are gum hoods, the product of choice is a liquid latex. I have no idea where to find it or what product name it carries. For the other black rubber hoods, I would be careul about putting any solvents on them. They make them sticky (DAMHIK!) and silicone products make them degrade. You may be able to find those hoods if you keep your eyes open on "the bay".

   RE:RE:MISC: Re-vamping old hoods? posted by Edward in Vancouver on 10/27/2003 at 10:20:33 PM
O.K. I'll try two magic ingredients, hot water and soap and a stiff nylon brush. That can't hurt, can it? Oh, the hoods are early 90's, so I'm guessing some kind of rubber compound, definately not gum. Maybe I should use gloves when I'm on the rollers this winter....

AGE / VALUE:   sicura folding bike posted by: dan swin on 10/27/2003 at 3:38:58 AM
i just purchased a light weight folding bike wiht the brand name SICURA, which i belevie is italian. i ahve not been able to find info on it. any help would be appreciatated....the chrome is all rust , but teh frame is solid. model is called "PICNIK".

AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sportiff posted by: Steve Leach on 10/27/2003 at 3:19:20 AM
Just purchased a Raleigh Sportif/sportiff (seller used two f's) on eBay that I plan on building up as a single speed fixed gear. The seat tube sticker says it is Reynolds 410 (?!). I can find no reference to either the model or to 410 tubing anywhere on the interenet.

Has anyone ever heard of the model or of renyolds 410?
Frame has original bottom bracket, anyone know what form of crankset I need to look for?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sportiff posted by Gralyn on 10/27/2003 at 2:02:54 PM
I had a Sportif - I recently gave it to my brother. Mine had the same frame material. It's ChroMo ....but I don't know what the 410 means. I just assumed it was probably strait gage ChroMo.
Mine also had the original bottom bracket...and cranks, etc.....all original....but it appears most of the common cranksets from the 70's, 80's and into the 90's will fit.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sportiff posted by Stacey on 10/27/2003 at 4:11:36 PM
The 410, is the steel alloy designation. I have a Raleigh Capri of the same tubing. I did some Google research a while back, it appears to be a low grade stainless... unfortunatly it will rust. Nothing special, but not gas pipe either.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sportiff posted by Stacey on 10/28/2003 at 3:50:46 PM
As a follow up: I found this page; http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=970

It provides composition and other relevant details.