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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

AGE / VALUE:   I have an Indain Warrior Bicycle posted by: Landry on 11/25/2003 at 12:01:38 AM
Someone Please tell me how much an Indian Worrior bicycle is and what maker it is. thanks

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   I have an Indain Warrior Bicycle posted by Kim on 11/27/2003 at 2:42:25 PM
It is an English bicycle. Look under the English Roadster discussion area.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot AO8 Original equipment posted by: Commutebybike on 11/24/2003 at 6:52:11 PM
I recently purchased a 1974 Peugeot AO8 for $5 at a yard sale. The seller claims he is the first owner and bought it new and the components are still all original. It is equipped with a 14-28 Cyclo 5 speed,simplex prestige derailleurs and a Saris chain. The problem I found is that the top pulley on the rear derailleur and the 28 tooth cog bind because there isn't enough clearance for that combination. I have rectified this by changing the gearing to a 14-24 but can anyone tell me if the AO8 was originally sold with the 14-28 gearing? I would also appreciate any other information or resources about the history of the AO8.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot AO8 Original equipment posted by Tom on 11/24/2003 at 9:23:57 PM
Specs can vary from year to year, but my early seventies catalogs show 40/52T chainrings with a 14-17-20-24-28T freewheel. The Prestige specs are 30T maximum freewheel size and 30T maximum capacity. So things should work. I have a Prestige that operates well with a 28T, though it's not on an A08.

You do not say if the problem occurs on the large or small chainring, or both. There are several possible contributors: incorrect chain length, binding or weak springs in either the upper or lower pivot, bent adaptor claw, improperly postioned adaptor claw (easy to do if the flanged positoning nut and screw are missing). There are probably a few more, which currently escape me.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot AO8 Original equipment posted by JONathan on 11/25/2003 at 1:58:13 AM
Those are nice rides. The lugged framed version, as opposed to the later internal-lugged frames, are more in demand.
I have a later AO-8 with the internal lugs, which had the Sachs-Huret rear derailer. I changed to a Japanese (SunTour "V") rear derailer. The rear-dropout has a Simplex integral hanger, but the SunTour threaded right into it.
The rubbing problem is most likely a chain length issue, but the first remedy that I try is to position the rear axle further back in the dropout. This simple procedure pulls the pulley cage back which increases the jockey (top) wheel
distance from the cogs. You really need to bench the bike to test the whole range of gears. Ideal condition is to have enough chain to handle the "large/large" and still have tension in the "small/small" combination. Another fix, which is what I do when having to mess with the Simplex stuff, is replace the the derasiler with a SunTour slant//-ogram derailer.
They work much better, for some reason. I rarely have any problems with the SunTours. The "Cyclone" works great on my UO-8. The "V"'s are more readily available and are pretty decent, too. Good Luck.

   East meets West posted by John E on 11/25/2003 at 2:11:30 AM
I put SunTour Cyclones on both of my Peugeots -- BIG improvement over the original Simplexes.

   UO-8/AO-8 gearing posted by John E on 11/25/2003 at 2:16:55 AM
Peugeot used a few different gearing systems, including 52-36 or 50-36/14-26. As noted above, 52-40/14-28, a very nice 1.5-step system, became standard in the early 1970s.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Peugeot AO8 Original equipment posted by Commutebybike on 11/25/2003 at 5:54:48 PM
The rest of the drivetrain is a Nervar 52-40 cottered and I experience the problem with both chainrings. The chain is original as stock (since the original owner stored it more than rode it) and it hasn't exceeded the wear specifications. I will check the spring tension and assess the chain length. Regarding derailleur replacement, I am limited to what I can put on it so I have enough purchase on the axles for the wing nuts while still clearing the upper pivot. I tried a suntour and I couldn't get past the derailleur after three threads. Thanks to all of you for your input, I appreciate your help.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot AO8 Original equipment posted by Rob on 11/25/2003 at 5:58:53 PM
I had a somewhat similar problem with a Prestige derailleur on a early-mid 70s AO-8...Here's what I found...and what I did...

The Simplex Prestige 'Delrin' derailleurs, at least in the 70s, seem to come in several iterations (I won't get into the Criterium which is basically a glorified Prestige). Most seem to have the 'red' logo with a single pivot, some of the 'red' logo ones are dual pivot, later they went to a 'silver' logo dual pivot with, I think, more steel and less Delrin. My memory is failing a bit here, but I think all, or most of the single pivots, had the Simplex non-threaded hanger arrangement...the dual pivots I just can't remember...

In the case of my AO-8, I was replacing an ugly after-market, low end Shimano der, and the single pivot Simplex clashed with the large cog. Although I think the single pivot is the correct period piece, I solved the problem by attaching a dual pivot 'red' logo...but I know that wasn't original as I had trouble with the axle wingnuts and had to 'adjust' one of the arms to clear the hanger pivot. My guess is that spring weakness is the likely root cause or someone has let the pulley wheel cage swing around past the stop limit post...sometimes that can be 'fixed' by swinging that cage back (there are a couple of ways to do that...which are easy to figure out...)

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot AO8 Original equipment posted by JONathan on 11/25/2003 at 11:41:17 PM
Wingnuts for the rear axle? Personally, I would replace those wingnuts on the rear axle with regular axle nuts and grip-washers. I have one rear, wing-nutted bike that had an elongate body on the wingnut for the derailer side. They were steel with chrome plate. Rob is most likely correct. The derailer is probably faulty in the return spring (ajustment or failure). Usually, that is the result of improper reassembly, but it could be broken. Just keep track of where everything goes if you tear into it.
I would look down to see the rear tire rubbing on the left chainstay more often than I would like. I guess they can get tight enough, but a regular nut cranked down with wrench took the fuss out of the muss on that issue. But, the wingnuts look cool. I tended to ram the cranks pretty hard, so the rear cluster was taking some nasty torque. Post what you come up with for a fix and good luck! Rides, JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot AO8 Original equipment posted by JONathan on 11/25/2003 at 11:48:33 PM
I guess it was not clear about the wingnuts. The two rear wingnuts on mine were different. The drive-side was elogated while the other side looks normal. The elongated nut permits clearance for the derailer cylinder. Check to see if you notice any differences in the wingnuts. It's easy to get them mixed up. They are not THAT different...maybe 4 or 5 mm.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot AO8 Original equipment posted by Rob on 11/26/2003 at 12:49:35 AM
Hey JONathan...good point on the wingnuts...I never thought of that...a longer nut...hmmm...I'll have a look when I get home. There are no end of things to watch out for....:)

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh Headbadge posted by: jack on 11/24/2003 at 12:43:09 AM
I've read (retroraleighs?) that the old oval headbadge used on 531 frames was to denote a Raleigh anniversary and was only used for 1970 models. If this is correct, one would expect to see relatively few of these yet I see quite a few. Is this explanation for oval headbadge correct or were they more liberal in its use than just 1970?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh Headbadge posted by dafydd on 11/24/2003 at 3:36:23 AM
They were used on more than just 531 Raleighs, just saw a grand prix (2030 tubes) the other day with this badge. That may account in part for their abundance.

MISC:   Schwinn serial numbers posted by: JONathan on 11/23/2003 at 10:42:46 PM
The first two letters are "BV", then a bunch of digits follow. According to the charts, which have been graciously provided by the site, the last second letter is "T" which is '82. Would the "V" indicate '84?
I picked up a "Excelsior" looking Schwinn. I know it is a ballooner, and not the focus, here, so I ask for indulgence to permit this post. THanks for any info.
BTW, the bike has "Joytech" hubs; gigantic, forged alloy Dia-Comp side-pulls; 26" steel rims with CMC faintly stamped on them. The derailer is Schwinn "GT 510". 5-speed with the "varsity" type shifter on the stem. Messinger spring-loaded huge seat.
Looks like the "Sidewinder" in the front forks, with steel plate dropouts welded to the round forks. Thanks, JONathan

   RE:MISC:   Schwinn serial numbers posted by sam on 11/24/2003 at 5:05:03 PM
JONathan,try this link you'll find it helpful http://www.angelfire.com/rant/allday101/SchwinnCodes1.html

   RE:RE:MISC:   Schwinn serial numbers posted by JONathan on 11/25/2003 at 2:10:54 AM
Whoa! That site is tight. Thanks for that URL, Sam. I can use it for other Schwinns in the stable. Problem is the "V" is not in any of the lists.
The headbadge is oval; screwed on and has "Chicago" on it. The frame looks like electro-forged (flash-welded) "varsity" style. The BB has a "2" stamped into it.
The Dia-Compe brakes have "MX" raised lettering casting along with motorcycle type levers with adjusters. There is no model decal anywhere, but it looks like the
"prototype" MTB, unmodified "Excelsior". Maybe it's Hungarian? One more puzzle to solve. Thanks, JONathan

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ross gran tour 11 posted by: Theron on 11/23/2003 at 3:31:54 PM
Just picked up a Ross Gran Tour 11 (2). Its fun ,quicker and better handling than my equaly old (1980-82) Motobecane Grand Touring. What's the dif. between Ross Gran Tour and Gran Tour 11? (blt. in Allentown PA)

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ross gran tour 11 posted by Gralyn on 11/25/2003 at 10:06:44 PM
I think the Ross I sold was a Gran Tour II.....I'm pretty sure it was....but, from memory, comparing it to the 2 Gran Tour's I have now - I can't really tell what the difference is. They seemed to be similarly equipped.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ross gran tour 11 posted by JONathan on 11/26/2003 at 2:18:45 AM
I have two Moto GranToursl one a mixte, the other regular frame. The moxte has Vitus butted tubes the other has 4030.
The latter is the only one that I ride, and only as a 5-sp.; well, it is a 10 if I manually change the chainring. Seems that I really jave no need for the convenience factor, so I did not fix the broken front derailer. I removed it and taped the cable to the seat-stay for future refitment.
THe Ross GT-II you have must be a good fit, too. My take on Ross is that there were master-builders making some of their bikes, probably the higher end of their line. That is a big reason to believe they made good machines; probably to compete with the Peugeots and Motos of that era. I wonder if some of the
talent went on to other small, custom shops after the bike building tailed off at Ross. Very few companies were atuned well enough to respond to the changing market preferences. Fuji is a good example of the exception to that trend.
Too bad that a good product disappears, just due to economics. I would ride that Ross Grand Tour II and enjoy the smooth sailin', so to speak, which typified that genre solid, quality built machines.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ross gran tour 11 posted by JONathan on 11/26/2003 at 2:27:14 AM
I meant; "...taped to the seat TUBE"! I think the seat-stay is not a good place to tape an unattached fr. der. cable...I think it is impossible to do so, anyway.
Thanks, JONathan

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   ross gran tour 11 posted by Joe on 11/26/2003 at 5:01:12 PM
By looking at a 1979 Ross Catalog, it looks like the Gran Tour had upgraded handlebars, derailleurs, and an alloy crankset, along with 1 1/8" tires vs. 1 1/4" on the GT II.
The GT usually had Takagi alloy cranks, Sakei Randonneur bars, Shimano Titlist and Altus derailleurs, a slightly better saddle. The Gran Tour used alloy high flange hubs while the GT II came with chrome steel hubs in most cases. Both bikes were very similar and I don't suppose the differences really affected performance much.
The Ross catalogs were always very unspecific as to the exact manufacturer of individual components, these bikes often varied within the model year due to running changes in parts supply. It was not uncommon to find a bike shipped with say one Normandy and one Shimano hub, or to see a various assortment of derailleurs used on any particular model in the same model year. This seemed to hold true for most all of the Allentown built bikes. Their catalog does not list individual components for the lower end bikes but only lists the the improvements over the next lower model. The Super Gran Tour is the only one which specifies that it uses "Shimano 600" components.

AGE / VALUE:   Campagnolo Stack Height posted by: Glenn B. on 11/23/2003 at 4:31:27 AM
Hello- Does anyone know for certain the stack height (vertical space taken up by the headset) of a vintage Campagnolo Super Record Headset say from 1978-1982? Was it the same for Nuovo Record during the same time? Was there any changes during their production run? Thanks

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Campagnolo Stack Height posted by jack on 11/23/2003 at 5:29:18 AM
Glenn, I'm not sure how one should measure "stack-height" or I would give you measurement of NR headset. As I recall, the main differences between NR and SR is SR have Al nut as well as Al cups w/steel race inserts. I have a SR nut and it has the same dimensions as NR nut. Also, you need to take into account whether you will be using a front cable hanger for centerpulls.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Campagnolo Stack Height posted by T-Mar on 11/23/2003 at 3:26:47 PM
Stack height for both NR and SR headsets is 39.1 mm. This is the upper and lower stack height thickess, minus the locknut lip thickness. I believe this dimension was standard for all the Record Strada (road) headsets, until the introduction of the C-Record group. Record Pista (track) headsets have a 33.7 mm stack height.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cottered Cranks posted by: jack on 11/22/2003 at 9:14:41 AM
This is my advice to newbys on removing crank cotters since I have recent experience. On the Raleigh Superbe I just rebuilt, I hammered the cotters out...mistake! Besides giving the bottom bracket a beating if you don't do it right, it's difficult (read expensive) to replace the now ruined cotters unless you buy Taiwan which aren't the same as original. Learning this, a more recent Raleigh DL-1 rebuild, I took the frame to a shop that had a cotter press. For $2 I saved the BB and the original cotters.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cottered Cranks posted by Gralyn on 11/22/2003 at 1:40:19 PM
I believe there is also a cotter-removal tool. I'm not sure where you can find them. I should try to find one for myself - as I always have bikes with cottered cranks.

   Cottered Cranks posted by John E on 11/22/2003 at 5:27:29 PM
Absent a press (I used a big, high-leverage VAR when I worked at Bikecology), support the crank from below with a steel pipe before pounding on the pin. This will keep the impact load off your bearings and races.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cottered Cranks posted by David on 11/22/2003 at 10:38:57 PM
The very nice (but discontinued) Park cotter press comes up on ebay from time to time. Check the archives in the roadster forum for a million workarounds.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cottered Cranks posted by JONathan on 11/23/2003 at 2:12:10 AM
This works for me: I double nut the threaded end of the pin, leaving just about a mm of gap between the washer and the crank; a forged steel (=older, as in better) medium sized vise; and a 3/8" 14mm socket (like for removing the bolt on cotterless cranks). Placing the socket over the blunt end of the pin, I position the vise jaws over the socket and over the nuts; squaring up the assembly. Crank the vise down to make a fair amount of compression; then I impact the jaw of the vise on the threaded side with a plastic mallet. DO NOT USE A STEEL HAMMER. WEAR GOGGLES.
After a few taps with the mallet, tighten the vise a bit more. Tap some more and repeat the procedure. The worst pins will hold out for a few cycles, but then after you hear the break, stop. Unloosen the vise and remove the double nut and leave about 4mm of gap. Rework with the vise in the same manner, only you won't need to impact hammer this time. You are simply pushing the pin out. When the nut bottoms, you can remove it and tap the pin with the plastic mallet. It'll drop right out. WD-40 is a good idea to decrease the friction coefficient of the pin and crank interface.
Older vises have finer threading on the screw and they turn easier with more control. They are also much stronger. Look for them at flea markets in agricultural areas. Good luck. Note: This is a superior method than the C-Clamp, which is really clumsy. I know because I used to do that until the vise idea popped into my tiny brain.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cottered Cranks posted by jack on 11/23/2003 at 5:36:20 AM
By cotter press I meant the Park-type cotter press. The last one I saw on Ebay a couple of mos age went for over $100! I like the vise idea but agree you need a good quality one rather than cheap import.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Technium posted by: Michael on 11/22/2003 at 3:11:53 AM
I was very happy to find this site but I am not very good at using it so please forgive some repitition here. I just bought a used Raleigh Technium road bike. It seemd in original condition. Rides great. The seat stay has PRE decaled on it. What does that mean? The derailleur is a Suntour. Works well. Is that original? Also the decals state that it was made in the USA out of Alcoa aluminum. Overall, is this a decnt bike, what should I look to do to it, and was $75 a good price? I forgot to mention that the brakes are heavy duty looking side pull. I look forward to any help and advice. Thanks!!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Technium posted by JONathan on 11/22/2003 at 7:19:00 AM
They were a lot more than $75, rest assured. Mine has the aluminum tubes also. 6061 TB (TB means thermally bonded) aluminum is good stuff; not recycled pop cans, that's for sure. I have some kind of group...Shimano, I think. 14 speeds makes it a good triathlon bike, I think. Handling is not at the Team Fuji or Bianchi level, but it's in the same league. Interesting feature is the rear brake cable is piped through the top-tube. The brake levers employ concealed cabling as well, which eliminates the mess of cables in front of the bars. The forks have very little clearance, so fenders are out of the equation. There are no eyes for racks or anything anyway. Strictly a road bike, it is.
The shifting is brisk and sure, which is a nice feature. The Raleigh USA wanted to do it right...and at a reasonable cost to the consumer, IMHO. The "Technium" models has appeared with several frame types, some steel and others aluminum; some touring types and others road-racers. Mine has "Olympian" in small block lettering on the top-tube; Raleigh USA and Technium on the tubes. If the frame is in good condition, the one you have is a really good bike for recreational riding or even competetive rides if you wanted to go the economy route. You won't do much better than $75. Mine was $70 (69.99) at a charity store. I was there when it went to the floor and the whole store was going with 1/2 off everything that say.
The archives have a post from 9/23/03 on the "Technium" aluminum models.
You done good.

AGE / VALUE:   A new high posted by: Walter on 11/22/2003 at 2:51:55 AM
It would appear the $7K Peugeot PX10 has been dethroned. I saw this on another list and thought it might be of interest.

I never did "get" the PX10. I understand the collectability of a Rene Herse butthis is beyond me too.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   A new high posted by John E on 11/22/2003 at 5:36:30 PM
Note the non-QR rear axle, the lowly Huret Allvit front mech, and the non-matching shift levers. That rear derailleur must shift like cr@p, but it is indeed rare! If this is indeed a 1964 bicycle, it has some anachronistic hardware. Also, I never did figure out Herse's fascination with 3-bolt spiders and chainrings, given the mechanical superiority of the near-ubiquitous 5-bolt system. Of course, the fit and finish of the frame are first-class and the marque has a following and a mystique.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   A new high posted by Geoffrey on 11/22/2003 at 7:33:09 PM
Oh that bike! The one with the hand written Rene letter, rolled-up and stashed in the headtube - no wonder it's bidding so high. The bidder's know! The cat is out of the bag!

   RE:AGE / VALUE: A new high posted by Warren on 11/23/2003 at 12:00:55 AM
I know a woman who just had a custom "Seven" Ti road bike made with handpicked special parts, components, wheels, etc. She is no longer a competitive cyclist. Price came to around ten thousand. In 5 or 10 years years it will be a fraction of the price. The Rene Herse might be worth double. These radonneur bikes are a piece of history. Not a steal but not a terrible investment...I think these Japnese buyers have more patience and vision than many of their western counterparts.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: A new high posted by Warren on 11/23/2003 at 12:04:04 AM
I forgot to mention they have more money as well. More power to them. If I had a dime for every unnecessary luxury touring sedan I saw in city driveways I might be able to afford a Herse as well.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   A new high posted by harris g on 11/25/2003 at 12:34:14 AM
dude dethroned himself. He now owns a rene herse AND a certain PX10.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Where did all the bikes go?......I think I know! posted by: Gralyn on 11/22/2003 at 2:40:01 AM
I posted a while back about how lots of bikes have dissappeared from the stores....all at once! I wondered if they had thrown them out. Well, today I found out where they went. The folks at one of the thrift stores was telling me that a man had come in and bought them all....on a couple different occasions. He ships them ....like by the trailer load....to South Africa!

It is a relief that these bikes aren't ending up in the landfill....even if most of them were dept. store bikes. I suppose they will have years of life left down in South Africa.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Where did all the bikes go?......I think I know! posted by Oscar on 11/22/2003 at 6:34:18 AM
A nonprofit organizatiion in Chicago is also sending bikes to Africa, as well as Nicaragua and Cuba. They don't purchase bikes from thrift stores but from the "junkeros" who pick up scrap steel from the alleys.


   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Where did all the bikes go?......I think I know! posted by Plavery on 11/22/2003 at 1:37:55 PM
The same thing has happened out my way. The local bike
shops served as collection points for people to donate
their bikes that then get shipped off to third world countries.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Where did all the bikes go?......I think I know! posted by Joel on 11/24/2003 at 10:16:24 PM
I have seen the scrap metal man hauling them away from the thrift stores in my area many times.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Ebay Goldmine posted by: Tom M on 11/22/2003 at 12:49:19 AM
Has anyone been following this sellers items on Ebay. If you go to the search page and look up his completed items you will see he sold/selling maybe $50.000 worth of bikes. Most of his bikes and parts are sold to Japan. Look at the bidders and how much some of the bidders spend.
Does anyone know the seller and what other treasures does he have.
If I had that much stuff to sell and sold that much I could retire early and just enjoy riding 1 keeper bike. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=420&item=2203932628

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Ebay Goldmine posted by Gralyn on 11/22/2003 at 2:51:25 AM
Hmmmmmm. that's a little over the top. It may well be that a couple of filthy rich folks who really love old bikes - and are collecting them....and money is no object whatsoever......or......well....it's just a little fishy-looking. I would be worried about the IRS, etc. investigating.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Ebay Goldmine posted by Oscar on 11/22/2003 at 6:36:35 AM
They say the economy is picking up in Japan.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Ebay Goldmine posted by dafydd on 11/23/2003 at 12:44:32 AM
From what I understand he travels to France a couple times a year to collect items for ebay. So he probably just does OK, but man! To travel, handle rare bicycle items, and make money off both! That's the job I need.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Ebay Goldmine posted by Derek Coghill on 11/23/2003 at 10:23:36 PM
I, too, travel to France 2 or 3 times a year; all I come home with is loads of nice wine and dodgy mopeds. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places?

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Suntour cassette hub posted by: Darryl on 11/22/2003 at 12:13:50 AM
I have a NOS Suntour Superbe rear cassette hub, 8 speed, which I'm having a hard time finding a cassette for. I picked up one Suntour "power-flo" 8 speed cassette, but the stack height was short approx. 4-5mm. Anyone have any idea what type of Suntour cassette I need and where I can get one?

MISC:   Interesting Pics. posted by: Rob on 11/21/2003 at 6:26:01 PM
When I was checking to make sure I had spelled "Gran Prix" right for my post below, I stumbled across this interesting site:


Interesting photos...and tidy and well-organized compared to my jumbled workshop... Although he doesn't have this page linked back to his home page, you can work your way back through the URL...he has some other interesting stuff...

AGE / VALUE:   Ross Gran Tour - Again posted by: Gralyn on 11/21/2003 at 5:40:54 PM
Back to the subject of the Ross Gran Tour from yesterday:
We were just discussing these bikes.....and to my amazement - I spot one today at a thrift store (Actually, I don't think I've seen a Ross in a thrift store in at least a year). It's silver, from Allentown PA, I think it has the 1020 frame material. QR front and rear. No braze-ons on the top tube - but it does have them at the other typical locations. However, it does have steel rims! (I just can't seem to spot any bikes at all with alloy wheels anymore!!!)
I believe the paint on this one was much better than the paint on my red Gran Tour. Now, my red gran tour has alloy weinnman rims, and it has an alloy crankset (I think). I was thinking of maybe picking up this one.....transferring all the lighter components to it....and swapping out the QR axles.

But then I thought.....and I actually may do it....stop back by the thrift store after work and get it......but....but....it will probably be gone! You know how that goes! Well, I think I will stop by and see. I will post back as to whether or not I got it.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ross Gran Tour - Again posted by Gralyn on 11/22/2003 at 2:39:10 AM
OK, so I stop by....and it looks like it's gone. It was on the very end a few hours earlier....and it wasn't there. But, as I got closer - I saw that it was now the 2nd bike in...they had put another bike out and placed it at the end of the row of bikes. So, I got it.

I was just checking it out just a few minutes ago.....it has no braze-ons at all. Before I thought it just didn't have any on the top tube....but....it has none anywhere. It's silver with black cables. My other Ross is red with red cables (originally, that is).

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh Gran Prix posted by: Rob on 11/21/2003 at 5:39:45 PM
I just picked up a Raleigh Gran Prix frame and forks (with crank, stem and bars). I haven't checked the serial # yet, but it has the black box background on the downtube with "Raleigh" in white block letters...74 or 75? It's red, and the paint is actually quite nice. Tubing is 20-30. The cranks are cottered steel Stronglights, and I noticed the bottom bracket is very stiff and gritty sounding... I realize the Gran Prix is pretty well a basic bike, but this looks like one worth giving another shot at life... I guess the market is so limited for some of these guys, that there is more money in pulling them apart for the bits and pieces...

This bike started out from a bike shop in Sherman Oaks (Hector's Bikes)... I have more than a few old bikes with California bike shop decals...why these bikes would leave warm, sunny California and wander up to wet, cold and dreary Vancouver is anyone's guess...an unhappy home life???...:) And, maybe this helps explain the old bike shortage in CA...

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh Gran Prix posted by Rob on 11/22/2003 at 3:26:14 AM
...make that gold block letters on a black background...:)

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh Gran Prix posted by Oscar on 11/22/2003 at 6:39:46 AM
A gritty sound in the bottom bracket is no good. That means you'll get to remove a cottered crank. Enjoy.