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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

AGE / VALUE:   Bottecchia "Giro de Italia" 1974 posted by: Gerry on 2/10/2003 at 2:46:20 AM
Any idea as to value? Has original Campy Record deraileurs. Chrome fork and stay tips. Nervar crank. Universal center pull brakes. Everything else has been replaced.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Bottecchia posted by Keith on 2/13/2003 at 7:41:11 PM
Bottecchias are nice bikes but not highly sought after -- kind of like Atala. The one you describe sounds like either a top end model from the 60s. If it was in nice shape and all original, I'd say about $300. I own a Bottecchia as well, the "Pro" model from the early 70s. It's a nice ride but it's by no means conmparable to the best Italian steel of the day. Botteccia gets it's name from an Italian racer -- Otavia(sp?) Bottecchia, from I believe the 1920s who won the Tour de France once or twice. Greg Lemond rode a Bottecchia time trial bike to a TDF victory against Fignon.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Bottecchia posted by Keith on 2/13/2003 at 7:45:36 PM
Sorry -- I meant to say it's either a top-end model from the 60s (based on the Record rather than Nouvo Record) or a second or third best model from the 70s. I did not find a "Giro" model listed in my 1972 Consumer Guide, though it lists several other Bottecchias.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Bottecchia posted by Chuck on 2/19/2003 at 9:49:19 PM
Are you looking to buy or sell one? Where are you located?

   RE: Schwinn Sports Tourer posted by Dave on 2/24/2003 at 2:52:44 AM
I am fortunate to have stumbled upon this web site - I have a 1975 Schwinn Sports Tourer which I have babied over the years - I realize I am being vague by not providing specific details, however, does anyone have a ballpark idea as to what this type of bicycle is worth? Is the Schwinn Sports Tourer line sought after by collectors? I can obtain more specific information if necessary.

AGE / VALUE:   Concorde frames (lightweight road) posted by: Darryl on 2/10/2003 at 1:59:38 AM
Does anyone know anything about Concorde frames? I've seen a couple on ebay and they look like vintage '80s and they have Columbus tubing composition. Nice looking frame. Sheldon brown has not heard of them. Thanks, Darryl

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Concorde frames (lightweight road) posted by Warren on 2/10/2003 at 3:36:26 AM
We had lots of them imported (?) here in Canada...generally mid-to high end road bikes with good reputations. Mass produced I'm sure. The cheapest one I ever saw was an Aelle (sp?) frame with 105....I actually bought it at a thrift store and flipped it the same day to a bike shop. A friend had an SLX model with DA group.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Concorde frames (lightweight road) posted by Richard on 3/9/2003 at 11:45:04 PM
I have a Concorde frame that I bought new here in Toronto
in the 80's. They are built in Canada, the Company is now
known as Aquila which, coincidentally is the model of my
frame.It cost me about $800 for frame and fork. It's the
best riding bike I have ridden in my 70 odd years.

AGE / VALUE:   Toe Clip Shoes on Ebay posted by: Richard on 2/9/2003 at 11:04:12 PM
FYI there are a pair of toe clip older specialized shoes size 45/11 on Ebay (not mine), Item #2707787900, 5 hours left.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Toe Clip Shoes on Ebay posted by Richard on 2/9/2003 at 11:09:57 PM
The time is now 2:52pm PST, post time incorrect.

AGE / VALUE:   LOTUS roadbike info posted by: Gee on 2/9/2003 at 8:45:34 PM
Me again, hey, just talked to a fella who's selling a LOTUS road bike for $30, aluminum frame. He calls it a "street racing bike", said he's had it for ten years. The only Lotus I know of are the high end road bike frames. Was there by chance a crappy Lotus too, or is this a crazy bargain? I'm supposed to go see it tonight, so speedy replies if anyone has any info would be greatly appreciated. He's very out of the way, so I don't want to drag out there if the bike isn't worht it.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   LOTUS roadbike info posted by Oscar on 2/9/2003 at 11:09:19 PM
Lotus made higher-end to medium end road and race bikes. I'd say that $30 for any aluminum frame that fits would be an interesting deal.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   LOTUS roadbike info posted by Keith on 2/11/2003 at 5:23:16 PM
Here's a lot of info on Lotus: http://www.mybikesite.com/messages/road/messages/1662.htm It includes my description of my Campy NR equiped Competition.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   any info about a BERTIN frame posted by: Gee on 2/9/2003 at 7:36:45 PM
Hey, I just got an old BERTIN frame and fork, and I know nothing about them. Decal says Made in France, theres a foil decal on the downtube that says BERTIN, head badge is silver with a blue/white/red crest with an eagle/falcon on top. No braze ons except one for the rear derailleur. Frame and fork are both Reynolds with Campy dropouts. Can't find a serial # anywhere. Does anyone have any info on this company at all? Also, I've just been reading about the difficulty of finding French thread BB and headsets. It has a BB (it has the letters TA on it) which feels a bit crunchy, no headset though. The fella I got it off of had some other frames, english ones, a Condor and a Raleigh Gran Course. Would I be better off swapping the French frame for one of those just for ease of restoration? I chose the Bertin because it was a beauty, so I'd be a bit heartbroken to think it might be impossible to get parts for. I'm thinking of making it into a fixed gear. Any thoughts, advice etc.? Gee

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   any info about a BERTIN frame posted by Warren on 2/10/2003 at 12:34:57 AM
That's a nice frame from a good french maker...don't waste it and make it a fixed.

Go to http://www.classicrendezvous.com/France/Bertin_main.htm

for more info

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   any info about a BERTIN frame posted by Dave on 2/10/2003 at 7:27:58 PM
There is a Bertin @Cycleart.com for sale w/photo's just go to the Psrts List section.I took a long look at it,$250 isn't a bad price.

    BERTIN posted by John E on 2/10/2003 at 7:37:36 PM
I like the Bertin, despite the hassles of finding French BB cups. As the owner of two Peugeots, I concur with Sheldon that French bikes are fun to ride.

I am not at all into fixed gear, but lots of other people on this forum are!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   any info about a BERTIN frame posted by glenn on 2/11/2003 at 8:50:01 PM

You can still buy french bb's. There are a lot of Campagnolo Gran Sport french bb's nib out there and Phil Wood still makes french rings for their bb. I bought several bikes with stronglight french bb's from the thrift store simply for their bb and hs and metric stem quill. New stronglight hs's can be expensive but I have bought nice used ones for under $25.00. TA still makes cranks and bb's as well. Sheldon Brown and Alan (bicycle classics) both carry them,including french bb's, on their websites. Remember you will need a 22.0mm quill stem rather than the standard 22.2mm. You CAN find parts, get back in contact if you have trouble.

MISC:   Ross Gran Tour & Super Gran Tour posted by: Joe on 2/8/2003 at 6:48:10 AM
I am looking for information on two bikes, both I bought new in 1980, one is a Ross Gran Tour and the other a Ross Super Gran Tour. I had given these to a relative years ago and recently gotten them back. The Gran Tour is still complete but in need of some work, the Super Gran Tour is nothing more than a frame, it was used for parts on the other and neither are now original. I would like to put both back to their original condition. I really don't remember which components came with the Super G-T, I think some or all of them were Shimano 600. I also need to know what the proper wheels were. The only parts I need for the plain G-T are decals and handle bars. If anyone has a good pic or even a copy of a catolog page, of a Super Gran Tour or can tell me which components I need to find, your help would be much appreciated.
I know these aren't worth much, but since these were my first new bikes on which I put many miles, I'd like to put them back to their original condition.

   RE:MISC:   Ross Gran Tour & Super Gran Tour posted by Don on 2/9/2003 at 4:44:37 AM
Joe: I bought a SGT new in box ($96.00) on e-bay last year, seller had several. It had all Shimano 600 group (the early Le Fleur style) with Shimano high flange hubs and ARAYA rims. I moved all the parts onto a 1971 Raleigh Super Course I had just repainted. End product was a great looking/riding Super Course. Haven't decided what to do with the SGT Hi Ten frame, maybe a single speed project?

   RE:MISC:   Ross Gran Tour & Super Gran Tour posted by Joe on 2/9/2003 at 6:03:19 PM
Don: Sounds like a great deal. Did the SGT have 600 B.B. and Headset components? If so do you happen to know which B.B. axle and headset it used? Mine has a regular chrome headset and the crankset has been changed to a Takagi Tourney (same as the GT) and the b.b. has a studded 3s axle. What year was the SGT you picked up? US made? If so do you have any picks of the components? I don't remember exactly what all of these parts looked like. I know most of the 600 I have found look to be much newer and closer in design to the Ultegra series now.

   RE:MISC:   Ross Gran Tour & Super Gran Tour posted by Joe on 2/9/2003 at 6:09:03 PM
Don: Mine, if my memory is correct, had Weinmann rims and Normandy Hubs. I am curious if there might have been variations in these as far as components? These are on the GT now. I am pretty sure that these were the set that was on the SGT when new. But, it's been over 20 years.

   RE:MISC:   Ross Gran Tour & Super Gran Tour posted by Don on 2/10/2003 at 12:23:29 AM
Joe: BB just said Shimano on it, I used it on the Raleigh. Headset was black, with Ross Pro in white letters, I will try to e-mail you some pics of components including the headset if I can find it. Don't know the age of SGT, would guess early 80s from the components, there was a Gran Tour owners manual attached to frame that says copyright 1977.

   RE:MISC:   Ross Gran Tour & Super Gran Tour posted by Joe on 2/10/2003 at 6:45:41 AM
Don: It sounds like yours may be older, there is a date code on the left rear stay. It should be a ten digit no.
The first four are the date. I am interested in seeing pics of the headset if posible. However, I doubt I'll be able to find one anywhere.
I spent this afternoon tearing down and cleaning both bikes. I am also trying to decide whether or not to strip and repaint these, I am capable of making them as good as or better than new as far as paint, but I fear that if I make them to perfect, I'll never ride them. I found an original decal set but there are only enough to do one bike, I only have one set of lower decals and the GT set is in poor shape.
I believe color and decal type also can help date your SGT.
Mine is a 1980 and is Black. The lettering is in block print not script as I beleive the next model was.
Both say ROSS PROFFESIONAL on the bottom tube.
Does the early 600 crankset on yours have alen bolts or nuts to hold on the arms? I have seen two types of 600 cranks, one looks like the Takagi Tourney on the GT with nuts and chrome caps,and an alloy guard ring, the other has allen headed bolts and no chain gaurd. The offset most likely is different on both, I need to find out which b.b. axle I need as well once I determine the correct crankset.
I really appreciate the information, I didn't expect to find anyone else who still had one of these bikes.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Ross Gran Tour & Super Gran Tour posted by ken on 2/10/2003 at 11:23:40 PM
I've also replied to the FS/Wanted post... more info here. The '79 SGT had recessed Allen-head chainring bolts and no chainguard, and the cranks had the bolt-and-ring so you could remove them with just an Allen wrench. Capt. Bike has remarks about this design, to the effect that thieves loved it and it didn't last long. I also moved mine to a Raleigh frame. No help on the original BB; sorry.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Ross Gran Tour & Super Gran Tour posted by Joe on 2/12/2003 at 10:04:49 AM
Thanks for the info, it looks like I have the correct crankset, but just need t figure out the correct b.b. axle.
I found another problem though, I have noticed quite alot of rust in the left frame stay. It appears to be started from the inside. I may need to find a better frame for the SGT. The GT frame looks good. Maybe, somebody has a 25" frame thy aren't using any longer?
I can always use the GT frame but it has minor differences such as the welded on lugs for the lower cables would have to be removed to allow the frame shifter to be mounted. Of course with a 25" frame, a low shifter is quite a reach and using a stem shifter would work well too.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   To repaint? posted by: Matthew on 2/7/2003 at 9:43:14 PM
Hey, I got a hold of a 60's Carlton/Raleigh Catalina that's pretty nice. It's complete and other than general cleaning the only thing I've had to do to it is replace the headset.

There's no rust on it, but the paint has a number of scrapes and scratches, the decals are pretty rough and the headbadge is tore up pretty good.

I'm wondering what people think --Should I even continue to investigate the repainting and redecaling route? I'm the kinda guy that likes to ride these things and not just let them sit around... my brother has one and it's pretty sweet, but doesn't have the paint/decal damage that mine does... Also I wouldn't necessarily go with a bike painting operation... it's too pricey, I've got some buddies and some professional car type painters and powder coating operations that I would use.

basically I'm asking - to paint? or not to paint?

Appreciate any imput or info,



   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   To repaint? posted by Brian L. on 2/7/2003 at 11:53:21 PM
I'm with you in that I ride what I own. I've some nice bikes, but none are 100% original. Some have more "patina" than others, but the only one I repainted was due to some rust that was going to become a problem. That bike also had no chrome, which made it a good candidate for tough, durable and economical powder-coating (also marginally more environmentally friendly). Where chrome is involved, that's not really a good option. For my two cents, I'd let sleeping dogs lie and enjoy the bikes history.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   To repaint? posted by ken on 2/8/2003 at 12:53:40 AM
I'm with Brian- ride and enjoy. I have two 70's Raleighs, a totally stock Competition GS that you can see on Campy Only, and a green&white Super Course Mk II that I have swapped parts on, but still in its original paint. The GS is lighter, and Campy is Campy, but the Mk II is the one that gets comments when I take it out. Also my guess is that no similar bike is going to have much collector value except in pristine original paint.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   To repaint? posted by Bob Hufford on 2/8/2003 at 2:25:51 AM
The bike is only original once. If you can live with the blems, then I'd recommend leaving it alone. You might touch up the chips with clear nail polish to keep the rust at bay. I've heard that powder-coating can be a bear to remove if an original style repaint was justified in the future. Best of Luck!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   To repaint? posted by Richard on 2/8/2003 at 4:32:43 AM
Clean original paint w/rubbing compound and seal it with a good wax/polymer glaze. Then ride it.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   To repaint? posted by sam on 2/8/2003 at 5:33:00 PM
I say repaint.It'll lower the value but if you like the bike ,plan on keeping and riding it,then what does value matter.Make it look the way you want.A repaint job should not be done on every bike--choose carefully.---sam

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   To repaint? posted by Kevin K on 2/8/2003 at 6:39:21 PM
Hi all. Be careful using rubbing compound on bike paint. It'll cut through to primer very quickly. I've used toothpaste for years as a means to restore old paint. Use basic toothpaste. No gels, but rather the older types from the 70's and early 80's. The stores still carry it but it is harder to find. Good luck, Kevin K

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   To repaint? posted by Richard on 2/9/2003 at 6:58:23 PM
The rubbing compounds I was refering to were: Turtle Wax Polishing Compound and Scratch Remover (very light rubbing compound minimal removal) and 3m Scratch Remover PN# 03901 (light rubbing compound slightly more removal than the previous). Not a coarse grade of rubbing compound and seal with a polish recomended for clear coat finishes. Prior to sealing use a auto touch up paint in a matching color or clear to cover scratches (auto touch up paint is usualy a lacquer, stay away from enamel it wont last).

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: To repaint? posted by Steve on 2/25/2003 at 5:09:48 AM
See http://www.nonlintec.com/carlton for an example of what's possible.

AGE / VALUE:   YAMADA posted by: rickey on 2/7/2003 at 7:00:30 PM

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   75 Shwinn Continental Chainrings posted by: P Lavery on 2/7/2003 at 2:18:31 PM
I have an old 75 Continental that I am thinking about replacing the chain rings. Are there alloy ones available
that will fit the Schwinn bolt pattern or it is easier to
buy a bottom bracket conversion kit and change to a three
piece crank ?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   75 Shwinn Continental Chainrings posted by Dave on 2/7/2003 at 8:40:02 PM
I'm not sure about the availabilty of Alloy Rings but I would go the 3-peice route,I have a friend who's Continental already had that done and it does save some weight.Bike-Parts USA has the conversion BB's for $15.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   75 Shwinn Continental Chainrings posted by Kevin K on 2/7/2003 at 8:54:12 PM
Hi all. I agree with Dave. On top of the weight savings you can trick out the appearance of the Schwinn Continental with any number of cranksets. Kevin K

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   75 Shwinn Continental Chainrings posted by P Lavery on 2/8/2003 at 2:45:02 AM
Thanks for the advice. I guess that's the best route to go
The Continental is a nice comfortable bike as long as you don't run into too many steep hills and you're not worried
about speed records.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Parts for Raleigh Technium posted by: Gralyn on 2/7/2003 at 1:54:47 PM
I was just getting started on the Technium.....and since I was still so shocked and excited over having actually found a lightweight .....I thought I would stop by another source - just to have a look. Well, sure enough....there was actually a lightweight....a Schwinn Traveler - probably about an 89 or 90 model I would guess. It had the Exage group, and the Bio-Pace system. It also had 700C wheels. The frame was only 19" - too small for me.
Well, I gave the wheels on the Technium a spin.....then gave the one's on the Schwinn a spin.....The Technium wheels looked pretty bad, still. The Schwinn wheels were only very slightly off. Just a small amount of tweeking brought them back true - well, actually, I didn't have to do anything to the rear wheel. I will be putting those on the Technium. I think the rims are Alesa....something like that...and the hubs are Maillard.
Well, so far - all I have accomplished is straighten the wheels and polish one of them. But....I'm pacing myself, here.

MISC:   DAMAGED FRAME TUBES posted by: Ian on 2/7/2003 at 8:02:08 AM
Can anybody offer suggestions on how to deal with a top tube that has been dented (but not bent) by a bar end in a crash. The bike in question is a 1952 CNC but I do not know what the tubing is. The owner, who has had it since new, said that an attempt was made at some time to force it out by hydraulic pressure but a pin hole was found in another location. He blames this on internal rusting caused by the frame being chromed when new and then painted over the chrome. Is it possible/practical to replace a tube in a lugged frame? What about filling the dent? I am not worried that the dent will compromise the frame, it is only cosmetic, but I am a little worried about the suggestion of internal corrosion. Any ideas welcome. Thanks, Ian.

   RE:MISC:   DAMAGED FRAME TUBES posted by Ron on 2/7/2003 at 9:01:54 AM
I have read somewhere that a tube can be replaced in a lugged frame, by heating the joints and removing the old tube. I don't know if this only works for silver soldered frames, or for brazing as well.
The pin hole may not have been from rust. Almost every frame has some pin holes to vent the pressure when the frame is brazed. Otherwise the pressure would force the tubes out of the lugs.

   RE:RE:MISC:   DAMAGED FRAME TUBES posted by Gralyn on 2/7/2003 at 2:23:32 PM
If the structural integrity is not breached - just fill-in the dent. If the fill-in doesn't hold up after a few years - then maybe look at replacing the tube. But, the fill-in may last for decades. I suppose it's just what you are willing to spend and what you would like to have.

   RE:MISC:   DAMAGED FRAME TUBES posted by Keith on 2/7/2003 at 4:10:14 PM
Tubes can be replaced but it's not cheap. I think Waterford's site gives some prices. And then you'd need a complete repaint, also not cheap if done by a pro. I would be concerned about the pin hole -- vent holes for brazing are usually very deliberate-looking and would look very different from a rust hole. And owing to the way a top tube is brazed in, I don't think a vent hole would even be necessary -- usually a hole is made in the seat tube and head tube where the top tube joins, and those holes act as vents. You usually only see vents on tubes that are actually sealed at the ends like stays and forks. But mainly I would be quite concerned about the structural integrity of the frame as a result of possibly extensive internal rust. Unless chrome is done exactly right, it will lead to this kind of rust.

   RE:MISC:   DAMAGED FRAME TUBES posted by sam on 2/7/2003 at 4:23:06 PM
There is a tool for removing dents.The tool is two half blocks of Alum. with a hole the size if the frame tube drilled in them.You are to put both halfs of the block around the tube and clamp the block in a vise and rock the frame.This resizes the tube.Can't say if this really works as I have not tryed it.If you choose to fill the dent I do use body solder not bondo.The solder will not cause rust.

   RE:MISC:   DAMAGED FRAME TUBES posted by Mark R. on 2/7/2003 at 6:02:02 PM
This is very easy to do, but may require painting afterward. First you must take two, two x four lumber blocks about
six inches long, and put them side by side in a vice and drill a hole directly in between them a little less than an inch in diameter, so that each piece has half the hole in it. Now, take the bike frame and place that in between the two pieces of wood so that the top tube is nestled by the two halves of the hole you made, as if they were clamping themselves around the tube right on the dent with the bottom bracket up so you can grab the frame there(I wish I had a picture to show you, because this really works well). Now you simply apply pressure with the vice, and then you twist the frame back and forth allowing the wood blocks to "iron" the dent out. This will probably remove the paint from the frame, but the dent will be gone. I've had 'em come out darn near smokin'. There may be just a light wavery wrinkle where the dent was, but that'll be easily over looked. You can paint over it, and it'll be gone.

   RE:RE:MISC:   DAMAGED FRAME TUBES posted by Ray on 2/7/2003 at 11:17:30 PM
Mark, I would love to see a diagram of your description to remove a dent in a tube, I have one I'd like to try it on. Can you send a pic/drawing of some kind?

   RE:RE:MISC:   DAMAGED FRAME TUBES posted by Ray on 2/7/2003 at 11:17:45 PM
Mark, I would love to see a diagram of your description to remove a dent in a tube, I have one I'd like to try it on. Can you send a pic/drawing of some kind?

   RE:MISC:   DAMAGED FRAME TUBES posted by Warren on 2/8/2003 at 2:39:11 AM
I've had a toptube dent pulled out, filled and smoothed by a professional restorer for around $75. You cannot tell it was there. This will destroy any paint in the area and is really only worth it if you plan on restoring or at least re-painting a bike. I have no idea what value your bike has...only you can decide if it is worth it. Do not put any heat on the tubes or the lugs if you don't know what you are doing. This can severely compromise the strength of the tubes. Full tubes can be replaced...I believe they are just cut off and the lugs are carefully handfiled and cleaned up for a replacement tube. Another job for a pro.

   RE:MISC:   DAMAGED FRAME TUBES posted by Ian. on 2/8/2003 at 8:54:17 AM
Thanks for all the great advice, just shows why this site is so great. The dent might well have put me off buying the bike but now I will be down there tomorrow! Thanks again, Ian.

MISC:   DAMAGED FRAME TUBES posted by: Ian on 2/7/2003 at 8:02:08 AM
Can anybody offer suggestions on how to deal with a top tube that has been dented (but not bent) by a bar end in a crash. The bike in question is a 1952 CNC but I do not know what the tubing is. The owner, who has had it since new, said that an attempt was made at some time to force it out by hydraulic pressure but a pin hole was found in another location. He blames this on internal rusting caused by the frame being chromed when new and then painted over the chrome. Is it possible/practical to replace a tube in a lugged frame? What about filling the dent? I am not worried that the dent will compromise the frame, it is only cosmetic, but I am a little worried about the suggestion of internal corrosion. Any ideas welcome. Thanks, Ian.

AGE / VALUE:   Roold 10 speed posted by: JONathan on 2/7/2003 at 1:04:02 AM

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Roold 10 speed posted by JONathan on 2/7/2003 at 2:01:23 AM
Forgot, price was $30 US. Here in sunny Ca., the thrift stores have a fair number of older LW's, but most are bike-boom and pretty worn out. This "super" Roold never had a kickstand! Yeah, first place I look is under the chainstays for crushed in tubing...the hallmark of bicycle "kickstand" design
The headbadge is really funny. It looks like a kangarooXmouse creature holding a wheel in its hands (paws?) Is that familiar to anyone? Can't wait to ride. Good rides, all.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Roold 10 speed posted by Gralyn on 2/7/2003 at 1:53:18 PM
I have never heard of that name before...."Roold" I guess there are many other bikes out there I have never heard of....which, the anticipation of finding something I have never heard of all the more exciting. Of course, I don't know anything about Roold bikes - but at least now - I know they exist - which is something I didn't know before.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Roold 10 speed posted by K on 10/5/2003 at 3:18:22 AM
I too have an old Roold frame. I guess there is not much known about these bikes but I would like to know if anyone has found more information about them since this was first posted.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh record posted by: Bryant on 2/6/2003 at 1:12:13 PM
Checked out the site mentioned in the posting below, http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/Retro-Raleighs/
Not much to look at but lots of info. I found out that my Record isn't a 1972, because they had stem shifters then, and Weinmann brakes. My Record has DT shifters and Altenburger brakes, places it at least 1971 (no brochure so not sure) or a 1970. Also found that the OD green color is actually called Bronze Green and the White trim was Ivory Glaze. Thanks Guys!!!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh record posted by Gralyn on 2/6/2003 at 4:28:19 PM
I didn't have any luck spotting mine in the catalogs either. The 76 and up looked too new compared with my Record. The 60's stuff looked much older. I looked at 74 - but it didn't list the color scheme. I thought it must be '73. So, I look at the 73 - but the edge of the specs page where the Record would have been listed - was missing. Mine is simply light blue / white. It has stem-mounted shifters, high-flange hubs, 5-speed cassette, Brooks saddle, hex bolt on stem (no allen bolt). I'll bet mine is about a 73.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Raleigh record posted by Rob on 2/7/2003 at 1:08:02 AM
I'm not real knowledgable about Records, but I have seen the light blue/white color scheme before...I think a few times, and somehow I have it in mind that it was a popular color. Early '70's certainly sounds close. I think if you could get the right person reading the posts at the right time, they could zero in on all of this pretty conclusively...

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Light at the end of the Tunnel....Finally! posted by: Gralyn on 2/4/2003 at 6:31:29 PM
I had just recently posted a reply to the post about the dry spell for vintage bikes. I haven't seen a 10 speed in I don't know how long! Well, today - when out to lunch - I had went somewhere close by - and so, afterward - I had some extra time. So, I thought - why not stop by one of my old vintage bike sources - just to see.....it had been months - and there has been nothing there at all. Well, today.....the light at the end of the tunnel! I spotted something new there....something different....a vintage 10 speed from what I could see....as I get closer....what is it? I get closer.....it's a Raleigh Technium! Aluminum! And it's just my size! The frame looked beautiful! Very, very minimal scratches or dings. The finish was a silvery blue....very nice! The wheels were warped, though. I will try to straighten them - but if I can't - I have other alloy wheels I can replace. It's very light-weight. It seems to be all original - but I've never had a Raleigh Technium before. I'm guessing it's probably from the 80's. From what I recall - there was one brake pad missing - and the bracket that holds the deraillieur cables at the down-tube was missing also. Everything else seems to be there. I believe it has a Selle Italia saddle, and it even has a little tool bag underneath the saddle...with tools in it...I haven't even looked in it yet. And also....the price was right!
Well, I had moved the old Schwinn Varsity project into the workshop the other night.....now it looks that I will move it back out and hang it in the garage until another rainy day - or dry spell (Rainy day or dry spell....that sounds kind of funny, don't it?). Now I have something to work on I am really excited about! I can't wait to get started on it!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Light at the end of the Tunnel....Finally! posted by Wings on 2/5/2003 at 7:10:35 AM
I have found Technium mountain bikes before and they looked nice. I have heard the Technium lightweights mentioned here before.
Have fun.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Light at the end of the Tunnel....Finally! posted by Bryant on 2/5/2003 at 12:20:05 PM
Nice Find!! patience and persistence pays off. Of course now that you have one to work on, you'll be stunbling over them. We can only hope. Enjoy!!

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Light at the end of the Tunnel....Finally! posted by Gralyn on 2/5/2003 at 2:12:05 PM
I did a little work on it last night - first, attempting to straighten the wheels. I got most of the warp out - but they still need work. It may be I can't straighten them - but at least I have something to work on. And also I thought.....who knows how long it will be until another one comes along....so, don't get in a hurry....pace yourself! Take your time! I will certainly completely dissassemble it and clean, polish each individual component.
It's a Technium 440. It has to be from the 80's. It has 6-speed cassette, and that foam rubber grip on the bars, and 27" wheels. Some options - I could put a set of aero brake levers on it (I have an extra set). Also, the missing piece where the deraillieur cable sheaths end - wasn't actually missing - it had broken off from the mounting machine screw - and the bracket had slid down the cables to the bottom bracket. I will need to find a replacement part.
Also, the tool pouch under the seat - it turns out it had 2 allen wrenches and 2 1981 quarters. (I guess that's like a 50 cent rebate)

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Light at the end of the Tunnel....Finally! posted by Gralyn on 2/5/2003 at 2:29:55 PM
Another Technium question:
Where in the Raleigh line-up did the Technium fall? What kind of price did they have? Is there a way to determine the date of manufacture? Where would the serial number be - and can it be traced to the date?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Light at the end of the Tunnel....Finally! posted by Dave on 2/5/2003 at 4:32:09 PM
I bought one Brand new in 1989, a 2 tone Blue color for $289,(it was the only sub $300 bike that weighed 25lbs).It rode nice but on the first Century I rode it the saddle broke off it's rails,(painful expeirence).I found that Raleigh put cheaper parts on it to keep the cost low.I now have a Releigh Super Course w/the frame made just like the Technium.With a Aluminum fork and Mavic wheels it weighs 21 lbs,and has a real smooth ride.I seem to recall that Raleigh had at least 2 or 3 Technium Models from $300 to about $700 range,plus some Mountain Bikes.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Light at the end of the Tunnel....Finally! posted by Gralyn on 2/5/2003 at 5:01:17 PM
There is a retro-Raleigh site - does anyone know the link to it?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Light at the end of the Tunnel....Finally! posted by Rob on 2/5/2003 at 6:50:21 PM
Apparently the site is not available at the moment...you might get some info. from this link:


Here are the links that at various times in the past I've used to get into the site (maybe there is yet another link I'm not aware of???:


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Light at the end of the Tunnel....Finally! posted by Jim on 2/5/2003 at 7:46:09 PM
Gralyn, I sold these from '87 to '91 Technium just refers to the bonding of the tubes to the lugs. They spanned a full range of models. My road bike is a '90 Pro & my mountain bike is an '89 Shear, which has a carbon downtube & a CrMo rear triangle. Your bike has a model name - usually appeared in an oval decal on the top tube. Great bikes all around with one word of warning - heavy riders who manhandle their mounts can brake these with very little effort.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Light at the end of the Tunnel....Finally! posted by Stacey on 2/5/2003 at 9:13:09 PM
Gralyn, I bought my Technium 440 somewhere in the 85-89 time frame, paid about $350 for it if memory serves me correctly... which most times it dosen't (sigh). I don't really know where it sat in the model lien, I bought "Pretty" the two tone blue is a delight to the eyes. The fact that it had some nice alloy bits on it didn't hurt either.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   The Light at the end of the Tunnel....Finally! posted by Oscar on 2/6/2003 at 1:59:27 AM
The two quarters were in case of flat tires. One quarter to put in the gas station air maching, and one quarter was for the next gas station whose air machine actually worked.

   Wet blanket posted by Ray on 2/6/2003 at 9:45:01 PM
If I would have found this bike I would have picked it up also but.... These have a reputation of being poor quality and bike shops hate them. Check ebay past auctions to see how low the prices are on them which reflects their desireability. Jim is right on, if you are hard on a bike than be careful with this one. Even dyed in the wool Raleigh dealers are not crazy about these.