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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by: Bryant on 4/12/2003 at 2:51:55 PM
Alright the JONathon, you talked me into it. I did pick up a Peugeot today but not the one I saw previously. This one was in much better shape, fits me and seems to be an earlier model. It really is a beautiful bike and I can't wait to ride it. It has Simplex front and rear derailleurs (rear is a claw attachment, not integral to frame) Simplex downtube shifters, Rigida steel textured wheels with Simplex QRs, Nervar steel cottered crank, Lyotard pedals (don't think they are French threaded because they have an L and R on them rather than a D and G), Mafac racer Centerpull brakes with Mafac levers and half hoods (no suicide levers), Half chromed fork, chromed crown, cutouts in the lugs on the headtube. It says Record du Monde on the seat tube, regular steel tubes, and came with the original Ava stem(that will be changed out and kept for prosterity) and has the frame pump holders with a frame pump(which doesn't work). So is this the ubiquitous UO-8 and what would the date of manufacture be??

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by JONathan on 4/12/2003 at 6:43:39 PM
Wonderful, Bryant. I'd guess late '60' to early '70's. I have one UO-18 in my truck that I got for $15 last week. One fork dropout arm is bent slightly, as is the rear hanger. I'm waiting for my chance to have my brother fix those. It's a '75, I think because the serial is close to my UO-18 (touring version). I paid $40 for it 5 years ago and it had a bent der. hanger. The guy drove the derailer right into the cluster. Tore the cage up pretty bad. The right seat stay is buldged a very slight amount, but there is no tracking problem so I left it be. You have to look hard to see it. Now, I've got an identical spare frame to use if problems come up with the runner. I used a fr-2 puller on the BB. Bryant, I picked up a "Silca" pump for my museum speciman (AVA, et al.). A little 3-in-1 oil will get them going. The plunger can be replaced, too. Now, read Sheldon Brown's article on "French Bicycles" and you'll have all the info you'll need. He desribes a method for fitting the standard 22.2mm stem into the 22.0mm steerer tube. Get 9mm cotters (I get an extra one in case I mess up on one). Esthetic note? I have a preference for the welded frames (non-lugged) for their sleek, no nonsense appearance. The lugged frames look very retro and beautiful, which is why I'm restoring one to original state, but just for display. The lugged frames harkin back to an age where craftsmanship was supreme. Cover those chipped paint nicks with nail polish to inhibit rust. If it has a leather seat (ADGA, B-28), you most likely have a pre-bike boom bike. Nice going. How much was it? JONathan

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:  get it right (me) posted by JONathan on 4/12/2003 at 7:16:30 PM
Bryant, the fr-2 is for a SunTour (older) freewheel extraction. It WON'T work on your Regina freewheel. Trust me, I've tried. I made one from an older impact socket using a dremel cut-off wheel and a bench grinder. The UO-8 and UO-18 cotterless cranks took the Parks CCP-2 remover tool. I wouldn't take the freewheel off unless you want to replace the whole thing, because there is only a load on the bearings when you pedal which makes them rather longlived with occassional 30# oil applied externally. The only purpose for my removal of the freewheel on the UO-8 was to clean it and the hub thoroughly to show status. I can just see the people at Shimano looking at that two-notch freewheel and saying; "I think we can do better".

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by Joe on 4/12/2003 at 8:07:33 PM
I just wanted to let you know that if you are looking for a replacement stem for a French bike (22 mm), I found a source in NJ that has several of these in stock, they are older 22 mm stems made by SR to replace the AVA stems. They are made in Japan and have no visable markings above the install line, they are a direct replacement for the original stem. He also has other french items still in stock. I found him on ebay, his email is njbicycle@netzero.com
I have gotten several of these my self, he also has a good selection of new take off derailleurs from back in the day as well as some Mafac pieces still in stock.
I picked up a set of new old stock Mafac levers for a U0-8, a mint set of Simplex Prestige derailleurs and a stem just a few weeks ago.
He also has new old stock French headsets, bottom brackets and stocks original Peugeot crank cotters.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by JONathan on 4/12/2003 at 9:28:21 PM
Awesome, I can't find any NOS Peugeot componenets around here. I have pretty much settled for slightly used components mostly from mixte (UO-18) bikes that usually sell cheap at rummage sales. Seems they are the best source as they have not been ridden very much. Most have "shop wear" and that's about it. I can't explain that. The UO-8's are usually well broken in and many externals need replacement. Thanks, Joe. JONathan

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by Bryant on 4/12/2003 at 9:45:55 PM
Well, I pretty much got it tore apart now. Just working on the stubborm cotters. I've got the C-clamp and socket rig on them and put it under pressure and hit it with some PB blast. Now I'll just wait until it pops. I already took the pump apart and saw it was repairable. Got to find the right size gasket and I'll be in.
Started cleaning it and under the grime, the paint is still in very good condition. Not many scratches and very little rust. The frame looks great! The wheels are excellent best I've seen. No dings and still true. The downtube shifters were weird. One was on a brazed-on boss, and the other was a clamp. Is this the norm?
Not bad for $10 at the VFW yard sale. The lady said it was just taking up space in her garage. I'll be happy for a few weeks now.

      Peugeot 10 speed posted by John E on 4/12/2003 at 10:58:48 PM
Yes, the late 1960s and early 1970s UO-8s had a mounting boss for the right shifter only, to accommodate both 5-speed and 10-speed models. If your shift levers are plastic, assume you have a 1969-1973 UO-8; older editions used metal shift levers.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by Bryant on 4/13/2003 at 12:46:17 AM
Yep they're plastic. Cool!! About the same age as my Varsity(72) and Record(71). Took the Varsity out for a ride today. I forgot how heavy they are, but still a very nice ride. Thanks for all the help guys!!

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by JONathan on 4/13/2003 at 1:48:45 AM
Excellent, Bryant. I have found that after the C-clamp is squared up and fairly (two-finger) tight, that a few light taps with plastic headed hammer or a piece of oak wood tapped with ballpeen will impact that cotter enough to break the corrosion "weld" that's holding it tight. A good "Bink & Cotton" 8 " machinist clamp works best. The cheap cast c-clamps have shattered when I have pushed too hard. I use a small old Stanley vise as a "c-clamp"; gives very good control since it doesn't try to slide off the cotter. If you file the round end of the cotter a little flat, you get better purchase, too. The block of wood and hammer technique is destructive of the bearing and race surfaces, so stay away from that plan. WD-40 (water dispersant #40) works best for me.
Check your spokes for any loose. Those steel rims aren't as sensitive as the alloy wheels so I find loose ones even when the wheel is true! Your UO-8 is just about excatly like the one I have on the bench. Got it for $12. JONathan

   crank pull posted by JONathan on 4/13/2003 at 3:34:28 AM
Bryant, I meant for pushing the pin IN, I use the C-Clamp/vise , as I have stripped the threads on the nutand/or pin trying to nub it tight. Pounding on the pin to tighten it seems a bit harsh, but you have to get that pretty tight. For removing the pin, I loosen the nut just a bit, then stack a washer or two to get the top surface flush. This helps to cut down on the C-clamp "creep". I can't recall the number of times that the C-clamp has ended up at a 70 deg angle to vertical! A second note; I hate to have my pant cuff catch on the threaded part of the pin, so I position the unthreaded (rounded) end so it is "up" on the downstroke of the crank. Good luck, JONathan

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by David on 4/13/2003 at 11:41:04 AM
That darn cotter. I received unconvincing replies when I asked why they always seem to be installed in the cuff-catching position. Do you think it's just for ease of assembly? (I think that applying a smooth blob of silicone bathtub sealer to the nut and threads might help on bikes that are still waiting for service.)

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by Chris on 4/13/2003 at 5:58:01 PM
Get a velcro reflective pants cuffs strap at the bicycle shop and don't worry about it.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by JONathan on 4/14/2003 at 4:09:06 AM
My cottered bike lurks under the tree in front ready to go at a moments notice for that all important run to the mom&pop. No time to suit up! I leave 'em everywhere, too. It's just as easy to put the pins in one way as the other, so why not put 'em in "right" and then forget about forgetting. It's itiot (me) proof.

   cottered cranks posted by John E on 4/14/2003 at 3:47:46 PM
Personally, I detest cottered cranks, and I use aluminum cotterless cranks exclusively. At Bikecology, we had an expensive, specialized high-leverage cotter press, which is the least destructive tool to use with cotters.

By the way, cotters should be installed with each nut facing upward when its respective crank is forward (I believe this is your "cuff-catching" orientation), so that the left crank's torque through the spindle is applied against the wide shoulders of both pins.

   RE:cottered cranks -- correction posted by John E on 4/14/2003 at 3:54:24 PM
Oops -- I messed up that one! Cotters installed "nuts up" are better on the left side, but worse on the right. Conversely, cotters installed in the "non-cuff-catching" orientation are correct for the right crank and wrong for the left. Moral: Go ahead and reinstall to avoid catching your cuffs!

Sheldon tells all about it in:

   RE:RE:cottered cranks -- correction posted by JONathan on 4/14/2003 at 6:55:02 PM
Thanks for clarification of the pin question. JONathan

WANTED:   Lotus Headbadge Needed posted by: Joe on 4/12/2003 at 8:18:29 AM
I am looking for a headbadge for a mid 80's Lotus road bike, if anyone has any idea where I might find one please let me know. Thanks, Joe

MISC:   metal fatigue posted by: JONathan on 4/12/2003 at 5:02:37 AM
To follow a bit on a previous post; for those who are interested, I found a really interesting (=informative) site that has further enhanced my desires to replace any of my cranks showing the least susicious appearance of weakening. That was a high quality crank that was in excellent shape! JONathan

   RE:MISC:   metal fatigue posted by JONathan on 4/12/2003 at 5:13:51 AM
And...almost forgot: http://technology.open.ac.uk/materials/mem/mem-ccf4.html
There are a few other bicycle component failures documented, including frames. Had a Raleigh "record ace" (1973) that broke just nearly the same place.

   RE:RE:MISC:   metal fatigue posted by Dave on 4/14/2003 at 8:43:34 PM
The older Campy LH crank arm I had break looks very much like this one,even the break itself was similar.The spot was about 2" above the pedal hole.A friend had a $275 mountain bike crankarm break in about the same place mine did.Sometimes they go a little to far to save weight.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   metal fatigue posted by JONathan on 4/14/2003 at 9:47:18 PM
Just goes to show; happens to the best. I hope you escaped unscathed from that. You know, I wonder if the pros use the same crankset for more than a couple of races. The high performance equipment may not be suitable for everyday as I had thought. Personally, I'd give up performance for durability up to the point where the robustness adversely effects performance; such as to be unwieldy or clunky. It's nice to get out of your own way, sometimes. I don't want to obsess on the topic, but I am aware of the possibilities more than before. Fortunately, it appears to be a low probability event, given noraml precautions (common sense), compared to all the other risks of riding. I have spun wheel lugs off car wheels using a 1 foot cheater and pushing not as hard as I pedal. Some idea of the forces involved.

MISC:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by: Bryant on 4/11/2003 at 11:01:41 AM
Got a question for you Peugeot-philes out there. I was at a local thrift shop and saw a Peugeot 10 speed for $8. It had 3 piece cotterless cranks, Simplex derailleurs and stem shifters and had a Carbolite 103 sticker on the Seat tube, and chromed wheels. I could see no model markings. I was hesitant to pick it up because I don't have the crank remover for a French threaded TA or Stronglight and I really don't need another steel rimmed bike. I know nothing of Peugeot and I was wondering how can you tell the date and Model of it

   RE:MISC:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by Willie L. on 4/11/2003 at 1:02:09 PM
From the Carbolite 103 stickers, this Peugeot is probably from the 1980's; for only eight dollars, it's a toss up. See if there is indication that it's made in France, and if in good condition, make it your first French bike.

   RE:MISC:   Peugeot 10 speed posted by JONathan on 4/11/2003 at 6:03:34 PM
Bryant, get that bike! For $8, it's a find. Even if it's the AO-8 (economy model) the frame is well built. I can get a Peugeot UO-8/AO-8 up and running with very little, and they ride great. If the FRAME is good, go for it. I have pulled some cranks with a Japanese crank puller and there are work-arounds if that doesn't work. The steel rims are great for downtown beaters. They are rigida, most likely, which were heavy duty.
The fact that those bikes got lots of hard use and still have it together enough to be worth fixing up is all I need. Is the forl crown slanted or flat? Does it have integral rear der. hanger? Lugged or welded tubes? The main point for me is what I want to do with a bike. If you want a ride, get it. If you are thinking "collector", I would pass. Good luck, JONathan

   Carbolite posted by John E on 4/11/2003 at 6:24:00 PM
I briefly owned a rusty Carbolite Peugeot, which I bought for $3 at a yard sale and scrapped after stripping the components (including the Swiss-threaded BB cups). I admit to being strongly biased in favor of traditional brazed, lugged frames, but to me a 1970s UO-8 is far more desirable than a 1980s Carbolite 103 frame.

   RE:Carbolite posted by JONathan on 4/11/2003 at 11:53:30 PM
I think Peugeot was all over the map, so to speak, on what they put on their frames in the '70's and '80's. Would they have put steel rims on the '80's bikes? (John E.)
Bryant, if you want the frame, check for rust with a flashlight (remove seat) inside the frame. Rust never takes a break working on exposed steel. Check for damaged chainstays from kickstands. Most of the ones that I pass up have severe damage, and it's about 50% of 'em. Why make a flat surface to clamp to a round surface? No sense, to me. Bryant, carbolite 103 is jsut like regular steel, I think. They used to say; "Special Allege Tubing" on the '60's and '70's bikes. That's regular steel.

   Carbolite posted by John E on 4/14/2003 at 3:40:56 PM
Yes, as far as I know, Carbolite 103 is just ordinary carbon steel. Unfortunately, the Carbolite 103 frames take a seat post of nonstandard diameter, and they seem deader and heavier than the earlier brazed and lugged steel frames.

I do not know when Peugeot stopped using steel rims on their lower level road bikes, but ca. 1980 is a good guess.

MISC:   TA Crank - French pedal compatible only? posted by: Mo on 4/11/2003 at 5:12:11 AM
Would the old TA Cranks circa '71 be compatible with only French threaded pedals? What would be a good road pedal that was closely associated with the TA crank 170mm? Thanks guys, Mo

     TA Crank - French pedal compatible only? posted by John E on 4/11/2003 at 6:29:25 PM
Although my TA Professional crankset of that vintage was indeed French-threaded, others may have been imported with ISO 9/16" pedal threads. I would recommend either rat-trap pedals from a Peugeot UO-8, nicer quill-style road pedals from a PX-10, or Lyotard platform pedals. Just make sure the pedals and cranks have the same threading ...

   RE:  TA Crank - French pedal compatible only? posted by Dave on 4/11/2003 at 7:51:43 PM
Try www.harriscyclery.com,Sheldon Brown has an entire French bike part section.

   RE:RE:  TA Crank - French pedal compatible only? posted by Mo on 4/11/2003 at 9:35:56 PM
Thanks Guys - the pedals I had on the crank were the old ATOM kind with relectors - the threads were compatible BUT the threaded pedal stem did not fully extend through the entire length of the crank arm - Could result in a cracked pedal arm - It wasn't flush through the other side- maybe 1/4" lacking, thus my questioning if the pedal stem was the correct one for that pedal arm - What about the Berthet Lyotard No. 36 and Lyotard No. 45 pedals? The #36 is a rat trap type while the #45 has the outer point over the outside dustcap (quill??) Are the quill type higher quality an upgrade from the Atom? What about Maillard? Thanks, Mo

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Super Le Tour posted by: Dennis on 4/11/2003 at 4:48:09 AM
Hi all
A friend got a great ebay deal on a Super Le Tour. After seeing the bike I was shocked to see a Colombus sticker on it. Was this just stuck on or did this bikes use Colombus tubing? This friend wants to do a fixie conversion but needs to get a longer seatpost. Anyone know the seatpost diameter for this machine? I own a World Voyageur and the seatpost diameter is an odd 26.6 How can we interpret the serial number to find the year the bike was made. This is one great looking bike


thank you

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Schwinn Super Le Tour posted by Kevin K on 4/11/2003 at 12:07:32 PM
Hi Dennis. Yea, the Columbus decal is probally correct. I've a Le Tour Luxe made of Columbus tubing. As for serial number, look instead on the badge on the head tube. What is the number on it? Mine is 3174, telling me it's a 1984. The last number is the year. What type of equiptment is on the bike? Kevin

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cinelli posted by: paul on 4/10/2003 at 7:32:17 PM
I posted the other day saying I'd got hold of an old cinelli. I'm still puzzling over the age as despite searching the web I cant find anything particularly similar. I've posted some pics on the database here (though I'm not sure how to view them or if they can be linked to here). The points that confuse me are the braze ons and how the stays are joined to the seat tube. There are braze ons for the brake cables, a pump and a single right side braze-on on the down tube presumably indicating that the bike once only had a rear derailler(?). I mentioned the stays - these have an unusual cigar style to the ends which dont match any of the pics I've seen on the web. I've also not managed to find the serial number yet - where should it be - I've looked all over the downtube and under the bottom bracket but no joy. I'd appreaciate any advice (and thanks for the comments already contributed.


      Cinelli posted by John E on 4/10/2003 at 8:12:09 PM
As late as 1973, when they changed over to horrid Simplex stem shifters, the basic Peugeot frame came with a single shifter braze-on on the downtube, to accommodate both 5-speed and 10-speed models. The familiar UO-8, UO-18, and UE-8 10-speeds used an adaptor clamp to add a mounting boss for the front derailleur control.

Alot of road bikes of the 1950s were designed for Simplex direct-link ("suicide") front derailleurs; these may or may not have a braze-on mounting on the seat tube, just above the chainrings.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cinelli posted by Dave on 4/11/2003 at 1:40:17 PM
I have a Peugueot U08 that has the same fittings as yours, it has Simplex Prestige deraillers and is a '73.

   Peugeot UO-8 shifters posted by John E on 4/11/2003 at 6:33:16 PM
Thanks, Dave. I had forgotten whether Peugeot changed the UO-8 to stem shifters in 1973 or in 1974. (The latter is probably correct, barring a mid-year changeover.)

FOR SALE:   78 takara ladies 10sp shimano ff-drive posted by: mike. on 4/10/2003 at 8:18:32 AM
had this for a while now and its got to go to make room for my bmx bikes. near-mint 1978 takara ladies 10-speed. twin top-tubes go all the way back to the rear dropouts. has extra seatstays that go to just under the seatpost clamp. nice rootbeer brown color. complete shimano ff front freewheel drive, crank, derailers, shifters, entire drivetrain. and rides like the wind. a beutiful bike for cheap! taking any offer plus shipping. i know there is not alot of buying/selling here, but i thought i could try. please email me for any questions. will trade for any misc. bmx stuff. thanks.


MISC:   Peugeot posted by: josh on 4/9/2003 at 7:53:40 PM
I went to my local scrap metal yard and they had a bunch of bicycles. there where three of interest. Carlton raliegh super course with cottered cranks simplex shifter gb stem and bars, Bridgestone regulus, and peugeot. I do not know which model it is. it has metal simplex shifters cottered cranks. The front fork is half chrome. They are all in about the same shape and the same price. I was hoping to get some advice on which one to get. any advice would be great thanks.

      Peugeot posted by John E on 4/9/2003 at 8:18:49 PM
If the Peugeot has an integral derailleur hanger, buy it. If not, get the Super Course, since it has a Reynolds 531 main triangle and ISO threading.

By the way, on the Peugeot, metal shift levers indicate either pre-1970 or post-1976 or so, but the cottered cranks make the former more likely than the latter.

   RE:MISC:   Peugeot posted by josh on 4/10/2003 at 1:35:32 AM
I bought the Raliegh super course and the bridgestone regulus. i figure why chose between them when the only cost me 10 bucks for both. super course needs work but bridgestone is in good shape. Any one have more information on this model or any other of the cheap bridgestones. IT has suntour 7 derailluers and dia-comp sidepulls. Sakue custom cranks and handlebars. I know this is a cheap bike but comparing it to my shogun 300 the brazing and parts are alot nicer on the bridgestone.

   RE:MISC:   Peugeot posted by josh on 4/10/2003 at 1:37:02 AM
I bought the Raliegh super course and the bridgestone regulus. i figure why chose between them when they cost only 10 bucks for both. super course needs work but bridgestone is in good shape. Any one have more information bridgestone regulus or any other of the cheap bridgestones. IT has suntour 7 derailluers and dia-comp sidepulls. Sakue custom cranks and handlebars. I know this is a cheap bike but comparing it to my shogun 300 the brazing and parts are alot nicer on the bridgestone. thanks

   RE:RE:MISC:   Peugeot posted by JONathan on 4/10/2003 at 5:20:09 AM
John E., if you are checking this thread, I was wondering why the integral der. hanger on the UO-8 is of interest in particular; aside from the general acceptance that the "eared" hangers seem to be on low-end bikes? For Josh; I have a near mint condition "regulus" which was built during Grant Peterson era at Bridgestone-USA. I have all original. If my memory holds, it has 4130 steel lugged frame, all SunTour (even hubs except for the brakes and rims (Arraya 27x1 1/4 hp). The brakes are Japanese, but I can't recall the make. The stem and bar is Sakae (SR) as is the crankset. I have Bridgestone "Spica" that has better components and it has 700C wheels. I'd place it in the RB-2 league. The regulus is a better touring bike. It has integral derailer hanger, too. I then got a Bridgestone "Carmel" (lady frame) 5-speed just for the 27 inch fenders. It was hardly run, too. Price to value, I can't think of any bike that can match the Bridgestones. They are pretty basic bikes that are very well built. Just like I like 'em. Nice choicees, esp. that Carlson. I can give you all the specs. for the regulus if you want. JONathan

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Peugeot posted by Warren on 4/10/2003 at 12:30:29 PM
I think you hit it on the head Jonathan. Integral hangers have cast dropouts and are found on better bikes...period. This especially applies to Peugeots...the integral hanger means that the bike is not a UO-8.

Not all bikes with good dropouts are necessarily great bikes but it's a start.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Peugeot posted by josh on 4/10/2003 at 2:28:34 PM
if it is not to much trouble I would like all the specs you know on the bridgestone regulus thanks

   derailleur hangers posted by John E on 4/10/2003 at 3:17:05 PM
Warren is right about integral derailleur hangers. Over the years, Peugeot has often used very similar decal sets across its model line; the discerning buyer has to look for Reynolds 531 decals (PR/PK-10, PX-10), chrome stays (PX-10), and integral derailleur hangers (PA-10 and higher) to distinguish one frame model from another.

Caveat: Since the mid-1990s, even many of the cheapest frames have had derailleur hangers, and before the early 1960s, many high-end bikes lacked them.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Peugeot posted by JONathan on 4/11/2003 at 1:11:41 AM
John E. and Warren, you set me straight on that one. Thanks. Now, here you go, Josh:
Bridgestone "Regulus"
Frame= 21 inch, men's; 4130 chro-mo Bridgestone tubing
weight= 28+ lbs. without kickstand and air in the tires.
color=brown (I'm told it's "coffee", by artist friend)
freewheel=13-31 teeth per cog
Bottom bracket drop=< 2 inches
wheelbase=39 inches
fork rake= about 2 inches
chainstay length= 17 inches (edge of BB to rear axle)
Specific components are: SunTour r.der. "7 GT"
SunTour parallelogram front; Sakae SR crank and 5 arm spider are alloy steel (heavy cast); chainrings are steel; brakes sre Dia-Compe sp with "suicide bars"; steel handlebar on SR alloy stem
Freewheel is SunTour "perfect" (Maeda Ind. Ltd, Japan); hubs are Suntour low (medium?) flange alloy; rims are Arraya 27x1 1/4 alloy; seatpost is 26.5mm diameter high grade steel; pointed lugs all on all joints; lugged crown with center rib;
forged dropouts (front and rear) with integral hanger and axle adjuster clamp on rear; toptube brazed-on guides (3) on top surface for brake cables; elliptical, tapered seatstays brazed to seatlug; Sugino seatpost clamp (recessed; hex); seat is single-rod, padded, two-lobe, soft vinyl (seatpost is 26.5mm); Tires are Bridgestone 28-630's (100 psi) heavy touring style. MKS cr-2 pedals; 9 inch reflector on each wheel; Cat-Eye front and rear reflectors.
General characteristics: The need for complete lub on all components has limited my test ride. The balance of this bike is superb. Compensating for the smallish frame (I usually run a 23-25), the performance seems average enough, but this bike is built for smooth running at cruise speeds. For that, it rates high, IMHO. Maybe slightly more comfortable than my UO-8's, but less performance...kind of what I predicted, from the front geometry. I like the unpretentious styling of this bike. Decals are limited to; "BRIDGESTONE" on either side of downtube, "4130 chrmoly steel Bridgestone" 1-inch decal on seattube; "Regulus" scripted on either side of toptube and a fancy celtic pattern on the faces of the seatstays at the seatlug. There is a chain-slap protector on the right chainstay.
The bike is built to last and it's designed for easy servicing. If it was a 23 or 25, I'd ride it all the time as a commuter. JONathan
How does it ride?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Peugeot posted by josh on 4/11/2003 at 5:07:31 AM
The regulus I got has steel araya rims and aluminium handlebars.the tubing is hi tensile hi carbon according to the sticker on the frame. I have yet to ride it. i hope to get chance tommorrow. thanks for you help.

AGE / VALUE:   NEED INFO on HERCULES posted by: Chris on 4/9/2003 at 3:47:59 PM
I've run across a 1965 Hercules Lightweight 3 speed roadster. Anyone have an info on its worth (restored) and anything else that's pertinent? Please email me with details.

      NEED INFO on HERCULES posted by John E on 4/9/2003 at 8:21:11 PM
My late 1950s / early 1960s Hercules was a pretty ordinary English 3-speed. If yours truly is a roadster, please repost in the English Roadsters forum, where the appropriate experts lurk.

WANTED:   Raleigh Super Course 165 mm left crankarm posted by: Joe on 4/9/2003 at 8:44:37 AM
I am looking for either a new old stock or good used left 165 mm Raleigh/SR crankarm for a 1978 Super Course. If any one has any idea where I can find one please let me know.

AGE / VALUE:   27 x1" posted by: Schwinnderella on 4/9/2003 at 1:48:20 AM
Where can I buy 27 x1 " tires on the web at a reasonable,make that cheap, price? I am going over a nice Nishiki International to use this summer and need new tires for it.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   27 x1 posted by JONathan on 4/9/2003 at 8:35:00 AM
You can get 25-630 tires from Harris Cyclery for $17.95 US...that's what I saw on the list of available tires. My experience has been that unless a shop is closing out some tires that have been gathering dust and ozone for a while, you can't do much better; I mean for a reasonable ride and durability. Check a few shops. I sometimes catch a manager whose feeling generous, who'll let a set of Continentals go for about $20. Good luck, JONathan

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   27 x1 posted by Jimbo Jones on 4/9/2003 at 6:13:39 PM
Try bikenasbar.com. Got some for 9.00. Have some 7.00. Not crap IMO. 100 psi.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   27 x1 posted by Jimbo on 4/9/2003 at 6:14:45 PM
Make that Nashbar.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cinelli Serial No. posted by: Paul on 4/8/2003 at 6:37:43 PM
I've never restore an old bike before, but I've always admired others vintage bikes. I recently found an old Cinelli frame at the local dump! I'm trying to establish the age but cant find the serial number - where should I look? Its not in the best of shape but the rust seems superficial but I'm not sure if its worth restoring. Appreciate any advice..

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cinelli Serial No. posted by Brian L. on 4/8/2003 at 9:14:41 PM
Congrats! You might want to post some jpegs if that's possible. Check out: http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Italy/Cinelli_home.htm and http://www.cyclo-24.de/index_en.htm as a place to start with some images. Unless the finish is just toast, I prefer the patina of age to obvious restorations, but then again I like to ride the bikes I own, so some patina lessens any guilt I may have about logging miles on a classic. How is the chrome? Does it still sport the headbadge and any decals? Did you find it with any parts?

      Cinelli posted by John E on 4/9/2003 at 12:44:21 AM
I concur with Brian. If the finish truly is shot, get it repainted by a reputable bicycle restorer. Otherwise, clean up and restore what is left of the original paint and decals.

I admit to being a sucker for Italian steel, but as long as the frame is straight and the rust is superficial, I would deem almost any Cinelli worth restoring. If you don't agree, I am sure several members of this forum will volunteer to relieve you of it!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cinelli Serial No. posted by Warren on 4/9/2003 at 1:00:30 AM
Where do you live?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cinelli Serial No. posted by Paul on 4/9/2003 at 3:18:40 PM
Thanks for your messages. The parts on it arent at all exciting - mainly run of the mill weinman breaks, huret gears, tatty brooks saddle and unbranded. I'll try and get some jpegs up tonight. While I'd like to keep it fairly "of its time" I very much want a bike to ride rather than mothball and I'll be on a fairly tight budget.

I'm based in the uk - I'm guessing from the post times that you guys are in the US.

Thanks again (and I'm sure to post again soon -there seems to be a wealth of knowledge on this forum).

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What kind of bike used these tires? posted by: John on 4/7/2003 at 10:33:40 PM
I friend recently gave me a bunch of new old stock tires including a "Dunlop Roadster Gold Seal 40-365 28 x 1 1/2 fits rim F25" Does anybody know what kind of bike used this type of tire? Thanks

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What kind of bike used these tires? posted by sam on 4/8/2003 at 12:00:49 AM
That's for a raleigh DL-1 (28" wheeled bike)Dunlop is hard to find- got about 10 of them! Talk to English roadester group , someone will want that one-sam

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What kind of bike used these tires? posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 4/9/2003 at 12:35:43 AM
This is N.O.S.?
One is hard pressed to find a better original equipment tire for a Raleigh Tourist D.L.1.
Lots of English Raleigh Roadster owners will be glad to get on eof these. Good Find! What else does this friend have? Where did he find it?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What kind of bike used these tires? posted by John on 4/10/2003 at 12:30:25 AM
To: humberchristopher28@hotmail.com Most of the stuff was well used Huffy, but there were some goodies including a nos chrome 1" pitch sprocket(for the balloon tire in you. There was also a couple nos 1 5/8 tires, a few old ball 20" tires, and a bunch of jap-made English roadster cranks, sprockets, stems, etc. Plus I think I now own more nos Walk front axels then they do!! John

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Ross Signature and Paragon posted by: Rich on 4/7/2003 at 6:08:05 PM
Twenty plus years ago, I bought my son a Ross Paragon 19". Although I had a decent DAWES tourer, I liked the Signature series and bought one for myself (56cm). The Paragon wound up scratched and chipped and the Signature stolen. I'm in the process of restoring the Paragon (anyone got a set of 024 forks with the classic lugged crown?)and over the past winter discovered that these frames,while made by Tom Kellog or under his supervision seem rarer than hens teeth. If anyone out there owned a signature (or paragon)give me a shout.