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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Latest sightings posted by: Gralyn on 6/11/2003 at 1:47:25 AM
In addition to the usual Free Spirits and Huffys - I spotted a Concorde - which was an old Japanese, steel, steel cottered cranks, steel rims, and it was heavy. The cranks were all bent and the rims were rusty..I just let it be. Then I spotted a Contra....actually, 2 of them - a 23" and about a 19 or 20" - again, the same Japanese set-up....except they had cotterless cranks. Then, I spotted His and Hers Iversons. They weren't bad - condition-wise, that is. They were both white. But, they were heavy, very heavy. They weren't even priced yet - but I think even if they had been $10 each - I would probably just let them be. The novelty of it seems appealing - but I just don't have room.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Latest sightings posted by Wings on 6/11/2003 at 3:31:46 AM
I grew up on an Iverson! I have never seen one in a thrift store but my local bike shop had one restored sitting on top of a table and it was so awesome!!!! Mine had wooden wheels until I replaced it with some sear's wheels when I was a kid. Everyone rode big baloon tire bikes and no one could keep up with me on my Iverson! I got it second hand and it only had one speed. Awesome!!! I must admit sentimental attachment creates a lot of value in the bikes we find!!

MISC:   Using Armorall posted by: Rob on 6/10/2003 at 11:44:54 PM
I also want to say thanks...to whoever it was who mentioned, a week or so ago, using Armorall on Simplex "Delrin" components. My Gitane TdF still has its original Simplex cable guide hardware at the BB..it looks kind of neat, but the plastic parts were kind of gray looking...I figured it was faded, but it didn't 'click' with me right away that the part was "Delrin" and that Armorall would be the thing to 'beautify' it...worked like a charm...

Just DON'T put the Armorall anywhere near the brakes or tires...so I've been told...

AGE / VALUE:   COTTERED ALUMINUM CRANKSET posted by: Kevin K on 6/10/2003 at 10:49:55 PM
Hi Guys. Thanks for all the responses on the aluminum cottered crankset. The bike is going to be used only by my 50 pound son for short trips and to get the feel for road bikes instead of his mountain bike. I'll then remove what I can use and metal pile the rest. Yea, they are sorta neat to look at but..............

MISC:   VAR 32 Tool posted by: John on 6/10/2003 at 3:08:23 PM
Is anyone familiar with a VAR 32 tool? It is similiar to the VAR 30 and I know what the 30 (bottom bracket fixed cup remover)is used for, but I can't figure out the 32. The 32 does not have the square portion at the end where the 30 holds the fitted jaws securely, just a smooth surface and a threaded bolt. Any information is appreciated. Thanks.

   RE:MISC:   VAR 32 Tool posted by Tom on 6/10/2003 at 4:48:56 PM
What you have sounds like the pilot shaft for the VAR 32 head tube facing and reaming tool. The tool is used for reaming the inside of the head tube to the correct diameter for the headset cups. It also faces the top and bottom ends of the head tube, so that the they are parallel, to ensure proper bearing race seating for smooth and reliable operation.

The complete tool consists of a T-handle, the pilot shaft you described, a conical alignment spacer, a spring, a knurled spring tension adjuster with thumbscrew and a rod that is notched at one end and threaded at the other. There should also be two cutting tools, one with the cutting surfaces on the flat face and the other with the cutting surfaces on the cyclindrical face The cutting tools are available in about 6 different sizes depending on the intended headset.

If you e-mail me directly, I can provide you with a photo of the complete tool and instructions for proper use. I can also identify of the cutting tools if you provide the VAR numbers, which should be inscribed with an electric pen.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cotter Pins for my Jeunet posted by: Gralyn on 6/10/2003 at 12:49:27 PM
I was re-assembling my Jeunet Mixte....I put the crank and chain rings back together - and installed the crank. Then, I proceed to install the other crank - but the cotter pin will not fit into the crank. OK, maybe I'm inserting it from the wrong end....no, it's not that. How did this happen? I had the pins in a little bag - and it was down in a box with all the other components. Somehow, I must have mixed them with some other pins. The pin I need is a smaller diamter than all my other pins in all my other cranks. Maybe the pin I need is on another bike - I would have to figure out which bike has it - then swap them out. Or.......I wouldn't mind to get a couple new pins. Did they make all different size pins? Most of all I have are a little larger diameter....these are a smaller diamter....that's really all I have is 2 sizes...a larger and a smaller. Where could I find some of these smaller pins?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cotter Pins for my Jeunet posted by David on 6/10/2003 at 2:33:35 PM
Bike Parts USA has cotters in several sizes (you'll have to measure!)


      Cotter Pins for my Jeunet posted by John E on 6/10/2003 at 2:55:54 PM
Please verify on Sheldon's website, but I believe French cotter pins were of a smaller diameter than others. Loosescrews.com sells cotters, as well.

   RE:   Cotter Pins for my Jeunet posted by Dave on 6/10/2003 at 3:57:11 PM
According to Sheldon Brown French cotters were 9mm and English ones were 9.5mm.

   RE:   Cotter Pins for my Jeunet posted by JONathan on 6/10/2003 at 4:19:41 PM
Grlyn, welcome to the wonderful world of cottered cranks. The problem I've had is that the French had 9mm and 8.5mm pins. The British (standard) is 9.5mm. So, it may be necessary to measure the pin with a gauge or a micrometer. I use a general purpose slide bar micrometer that is about $10. They are nice to have around if you do a lot of mechanical work.
What I've done has worked well and this was all discussed in an earlier posting...especially by Tom, who provided lots of useful information. Search here for the post. It was about a month back. If the cranks were fitted properly before you took it all apart...they must fit back correctly if the same hardware is used. That doesn't assume that both pins are identical either. Check the size and compare. A lot of the time, the crank and spindle are tricky to line up for the pin. Make sure the flat bevel of the pin is facing the flat on the spindle notch. "Round faces round and flat faces flat" is a good saw.
I usually trade out the pins for new ones with the added necessity of filing the flat to make the pin fit the correct depth which is with a slight recess on one side and a slight projection of the head on the other. The filing is required if you want 180 deg. offset on the cranks. Some of my earlier work shows a marked deviation which makes for a strange feel while pumping at high rpm. There is a guy in New Jersey who has the pins. If you have trouble, e-mail me. I bought a bunch of 9's when I finally found a shop with some in a box...Good luck...JONathan
BTW, just to add some encouragement, get an extra pin. You'll probably file too far on a pin and that's it. Get another pin. More of an art than a science. Good luck.

   RE:RE:   Cotter Pins for my Jeunet posted by JONathan on 6/10/2003 at 4:39:33 PM
This may not be necessary to say, but I feel better saying it. You file the flat of the PIN...not the spindle. I wasn't sure if it was clear in my above post. Grlyn, I have a boomer Jeunet that's way cool. Men's frame with solid architecture and the usual Nervar cottered levers. When I get a digital camera, I'll take a snap and send a pic., if you want. Cheers, JONathan
My regular camera is OK, but it takes me a year to get a roll of pics. to develop.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Maillard Heliomatic hub posted by: Tom on 6/10/2003 at 3:34:03 AM
I found a wheel in the garbage a few weeks ago. It is an alloy Maillard Heliomatic with no freewheel. I have not seen one before. Were these a good hub or garbage where I found it. The rim is a nice alloy Weinmann 27 x 1 1/4.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Maillard Heliomatic hub posted by JONathan on 6/10/2003 at 5:45:48 AM
The case against Helicomatic stems from the cassette hub requiring a more radical dish to the spokes; that combined with the smaller bearings used to compensate weakened it further. I have a set with good quality steel rims and it has been fine. I attribute my success to the steel rim being more rigid and that I keep the spokes adjusted and the wheel trued. No problems...so far. If the rim is a heavy-service Weinmann version, I'd keep it and junk the hub, but then a hub may be a collector's item if it has esoteric qualities, which that one appears to fit the bill. Also, I would keep the spokes if they are good. Finding a cassette is indeed a cause for concern. Using it as a complete wheel again is a low probability event.
Why throw it away?...Is the rim the one with reinforced eyes in the spoke holes? Those are cool....JONathan

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Maillard Heliomatic hub posted by JONathan on 6/10/2003 at 5:57:59 AM
Too much potential excitement for me. I'm running my "helicos" on a Peugeot mixte that gets treated to lots of torque. Sure climbs good, even on dirt surface. Was there anything about the condition of the wheel that was defective or damaged or was it just a bum wheel?

      Maillard Heliomatic hub posted by John E on 6/10/2003 at 2:58:10 PM
You can read all about Helicomatic hubs on Sheldon's website. If it were my wheel, I would replace the hub with a modern freehub, which is what Heli. should have been, but wasn't.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Maillard Heliomatic hub posted by Steven on 6/10/2003 at 4:55:38 AM
The Helicomatic hubs were a great idea that was a bit ahead of its time. Unfortunately, they quickly gained what I believe to be a somewhat undeserved bad reputation with regards spoke breakage and they didn't last very long. You will behard-pressed to find a freewheel for the hub.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Maillard Heliomatic hub posted by D.C. Wilson on 6/10/2003 at 5:36:34 AM
Anecdotal evidence is all I have ever heard. Much bad. But my wife rode the hell out of a 1981 Trek for ten years without a problem. And she never repacked the bearings once. Not bad, I'd say.

As far as finding replacement free wheels, gosh, all you have to do is go to the thrift stores and one will turn up in a month or two. And if you don't want to wait, get on ebay and look for an old Trek with non 531 tubing and buy it for song and you'll likely get a freewheel for helicomatics and a bike too.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Maillard Heliomatic hub posted by andym on 6/10/2003 at 5:41:27 AM
I agree with Steven,helicomatic hubs were a great idea but they were poorly designed.With the way the hub was built,there was little room for bearings on the drive side so smaller bearings had to be used. This caused the hub to wear out prematurely. A friend of mine was riding his peugeot when the helicomatic basically exploded! Resulting in a very long walk home.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Maillard Heliomatic hub posted by Ray on 6/11/2003 at 6:58:56 PM
The one thing no one mentioned is the ease of replacing the cogs. Try to replace a cog set on any standard wheel without special tools and a vise and you will know what I mean. Right now I have 3 hubs that are not installed on a wheel and to of them have the standard cog arrangement and one has the helio. I cannot remove the two with the standard cogs unless I get a strap wrench or build up the wheel first or just ruin the hub. On the helio I just take the little bottle opener tool and give a slight turn and a little girl could take off the cogs with two fingers and install a new one with the same effort. I am still riding one to this day and have no complaints.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Kent racer posted by: Tom on 6/10/2003 at 3:30:17 AM
I bought a bike at a garage sale for $5. It is in mint shape. It is badged Kent. Has a Belt leather saddle. The bike is maybe a 1970's and is not high quality. Low end maybe mass produced. Anyone seen one before. Who made these.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Kent racer posted by JONathan on 6/10/2003 at 6:01:42 AM
I bought a Kent trail-a-bike that was kinda cheapo. I think the company may be a marketing company...just a guess.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Kent racer posted by Dave on 6/10/2003 at 4:00:02 PM
Kents were sold in Chicago area Kmarts in the '80's.Definitely low end bikes.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Kent racer posted by Bryant on 6/10/2003 at 4:24:28 PM
I'd buy it just for the saddle, toss the rest. I have a Belt saddle on my commuter. Most comfortable saddle I own. Got it for $1 at a flea market

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Help- Fat middle-aged guy looking for a ride! posted by: Fred on 6/10/2003 at 1:21:46 AM
I'm looking for a decent 10 speed for a fat middle-aged guy to get some exercise on.

Here's what I want:

27" wheels and a men's frame of preferably 23" or larger

Upright handlebars and a big soft seat for my big soft butt.

Two perfect examples would be a Raleigh Sprite or a Schwinn Suburban.

Must ride well and look presentable, and be shippable to central NY.

Thanks in advance,


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Help- Fat middle-aged guy looking for a ride! posted by D.C. Wilson on 6/10/2003 at 5:52:56 AM
The keys to comfort are:

1. A Brooks B-72 saddle on any bike. This is what a proper English gent rode on pavement and lanes in England and it works wonders here too. Find one on Ebay for 25-30 bucks, or new for 75 bucks.

2. Get a proper vintage light weight touring geometry road bike and replace the stock stem with a Nitto high rise stem. I found an old Dawes Galaxy, of which there are many, that no one wants anymore, or an old 520 Trek (and pay more). Touring geometry is what anyone should ride that is not wanting to go fast. Keep the drops. They offer superior comfort and utility when coupled with a tall stem and touring geometry.

3. Find some old Mavic red label rims (low end Mavic) or concave Weinman's (these things were incredibly squishy comfortable). Combined with a touring frame, tall stem, and a B-72, you are going to feel like you are doing a Simmons Beautyrest commercial while you ride.

4. Find drop handlebars with minimal drop. My old Dawes drops actually drop much less than the average road bike with racing geometry.

5. Get some really good tires and pump them up as high as it takes to keep you rolling effortlessly. With the seat, stem, frame, and wheel combo, you will be so comfortable and insulated from the hard tires, you will not have to work hard and you will not be jolted.

The great thing is you will find yourself riding more and farther and more leisurely than ever before and loving it more than ever before.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Help- Fat middle-aged guy looking for a ride! posted by Kevin K on 6/10/2003 at 1:41:51 AM
Hey Fred. Good for you. Watch ebay. Check out second hand stores. Hit the garage sales. Place a ad in your local hometown paper in the WANTED section. As friends and family to ask. Tell all what you are looking for. Lastly and just my two cent opinion you might consider a nice 3 speed Schwinn bike like say a Racer or Traveler from the 60's or 70's. Don't rule out a woman's bike like a Breeze. I had one. I loved it. I love the sound of the 3 speed hub. Good luck in your search. Kevin K

AGE / VALUE:   favorit racing bike posted by: Dave on 6/10/2003 at 12:37:15 AM
i found a chech made favorite racing bike....doed anyone know anything about this bike???? Its in almost perfect condition.............

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   favorit racing bike posted by dave on 6/10/2003 at 3:37:07 PM
the one i found is a rapido............doe anyone know the value?????

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   favorit racing bike posted by Rob on 6/10/2003 at 1:05:14 AM
I saw one of those recently in a thrift...everything seemed to have the Favorit brand on it...At first I thought it was French, but was informed by someone on this site, it was Czech...made during the communist era, so I guess they copied everything...they look interesting, but I never did find out if they are well built...

...maybe someone else knows about the tubing and the quality of the components...

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   favorit racing bike posted by Warren on 6/10/2003 at 3:21:47 AM
Not great bikes. Heavy-ish...adequate at best.... I've wrenched a couple of them and found nothing wrong with them but totally lacking in finesse. They did seem to have a proprietary component group...derailleurs, brakes...coaster hubs too. I've never seen a high end example and I've spotted dozens of them over the years.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   favorit racing bike posted by Steven on 6/10/2003 at 4:59:07 AM
Favorit also made a model called F1 that was full Campagnolo Nuovo Record equipped. I sold a number of them in Canada, however, I am told they were never sold in the US because of the governmental restrictions on trade with communist countries. The top of the line models were probably the best deal you could get. The low end bikes were acceptable at best. Interesting is the best way to describe them.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   favorit racing bike posted by Tom on 6/10/2003 at 11:55:24 PM
As Rob states, Favorit was a Czech bicycle. They started out around 1951 and were still operating, as of last year. I seem to recall a complete line-up, from children's models to the "pro" model that Steven describes. While much of the 70's componentry appeared to be proprietary, as Warren describes, I was always of the opinion that much of it was copied from free-market manufacturers, in the same way that early Zeus product copied Campagnolo parts. I can't say if Favorit produced these parts under license, or they just didn't recognize patents on the other side of the curtain, but it all looked suspiciously familiar. While I only worked on them and never road one for an extended period, the 70's low and mid line models always impressed me as sturdy, if utilitarian transportation.

AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Professional - should I put new tubulars on before I try to sell it? posted by: Bob on 6/9/2003 at 5:19:33 PM
I have a Raleigh Professional in mint condition. It's serial number is WD 5002312. The freewheel cog is a Regina cx/cx-5. It's wheels are Mavic GL 330. Everything except the handle bars is Campagnolo including both deraillers, all brackets, crank, and pedals. The handle bars are aluminum with GB inscribed with a wreath on the left side and the British Isles with a wreath around it inscribed on the right side. The seat is Avocet touring. It has Raleigh Professional painted on it as well as Carlton. It has a Reynolds 531 sticker on the forks and also a Campagnolo. The only thing missing are the wheels. I want to sell it, but the tires will cost over $200 installed. How can I estimate the price without the tires?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Professional - should I put new tubulars on before I try to sell it? posted by bob on 6/9/2003 at 5:34:25 PM
The wheels are not missing. It just doesn't have tires.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Professional - should I put new tubulars on before I try to sell it? posted by David on 6/9/2003 at 6:19:39 PM
$200 installed??!!! Someone is trying to rob you. Nashbar has tubulars from $20 to $80. I wouldn't buy new tires for it at all, though. Your buyer is likely to have his own tire preference and might even prefer to replace the tubulars with clinchers; so why spend money on something that is likely to be "wrong?" Anyone interested in an old Pro will not need to take it for a test ride. They'll be more interested in seeing if the rims are true and undamaged!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Professional - should I put new tubulars on before I try to sell it? posted by Keith on 6/9/2003 at 6:35:31 PM
$200 to install tubular tires!? You ought to be able to find some inexpensive cotton casing training tires for about $20 each (http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=121&subcategory=1193&brand=&sku=6285&storetype=&estoreid=), and a tube of glue for a couple of dollars. But it all depends on how you're going to sell it. If on eBay or otherwise on the internet, then I don't think the tires matter all that much. Then again it would at least look better with tires on eBay. So you might want to sell it with tires mounted but not glued, and say this in your ad. If you're selling it locally, then buyers may want to test ride it so in that case go with getting tires and gluing them. Glueing sewups can be messy but it's not too difficult. If the rims don't have too much buildup of old glue (you can see rim through whatever glue is there) then just put a layer of glue on the rim, and a layer of glue on the tire. Wait a minute to let it dry, then mount it. The trick is to get the tire straight -- do this by lining up the base tape on the bottom of the tire with the rim. Have the same amount of base tape show on both sides all around the tire and it should be straight (provided the base tape was itself put on straight). Let it dry (or cure or harden, whatever), overnight. If the rim is shiney clean, like brand new, then put two layers of glue on the rim. If the rim is caked with old glue, then you need to remove it with a strong and smelly solvent -- another messy chore. If you sell it without tires, knock about $40 or so off the price.

    Raleigh Professional - new tubulars posted by John E on 6/9/2003 at 7:55:22 PM
First, the pirce you were quoted is outrageous.
Second, if the rims look good, just sell it without tyres, which is the way new racing bikes were often stored and displayed in high-end shops in the 1960s and 1970s. Most buyers will want to do their own gluing and will not trust anything other than brand-new tyres.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Professional - should I put new tubulars on before I try to sell it? posted by bob on 6/9/2003 at 9:16:05 PM
Thanks for the info John E, David and Keith. The actual quote was $20 per tire for installation and about $60 each for the tubulars for a total of about $160 plus tax. I was just rounding off to the nearest $100. I think I'll just take a few photos of it and put it on ebay as is. If you have any idea of what I should have as the asking price, please let me know.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Professional - should I put new tubulars on before I try to sell it? posted by David on 6/10/2003 at 2:29:30 AM
A have a neighbor who likes bikes and had a little bike yard sale two years ago. I bought his rusty old roadster for $50 and he sold a very clean ladies' Sports for $25. He was asking $400 for an immaculate Pro, so I'd say you should try to get that or more. Watch bikes sell on ebay for a few weeks to get an idea of the starting price/selling price strategy that will work for you.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Professional - should I put new tubulars on before I try to sell it? posted by Warren on 6/10/2003 at 3:26:02 AM
How big is it, where are you and how much do you want? You have an interested market here.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Professional - should I put new tubulars on before I try to sell it? posted by bob on 6/11/2003 at 10:42:35 PM
It's about 22 inches from the center of the bottom bracket to where the seat where the Campy seat post sign starts. It's serial number is WD 5002312. The road cassette is a 6 speed Regina cx/cx-5. The wheel hubs are Campagnolo Record with Mavic GL 330 rims (tubular) with Campagnolo skewers. Everything except the handle bars are Campagnolo Record including both derailleurs, headsets, bottom bracket, crank, brakes, pads & levers, road stem, and pedals. The handle bars are aluminum with an inscribed GB surrounded by a wreath on the left side and the British Isles with a wreath around it on the right side. The seat is Avocet touring. It has Raleigh Professional painted on it as well as Carlton. It has a Reynolds 531 stamp on the forks and also a Campagnolo stamp. It is blue and silver in color. I have photos if you give me your email address. Mine is chiagob@aol.com

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   JC Penny 3 speed (Sturmey Archer) posted by: Dov Hunt on 6/9/2003 at 5:03:23 PM
Request help checking out the details on a yard sale bike my Dad just picked up that's in pretty good shape... It's a 3 speed (Sturmey Archer) JC Penny put out (male style) Model Number 2100 ... What year? Name? Worth anything? Thanks so much for your time! Great day!

   :   JC Penny 3 speed (Sturmey Archer) posted by John E on 6/9/2003 at 7:57:32 PM
The rear hub's production month and year should be stamped into its casing. If the bike is a European (probably Austrian) lightweight, it is probably a decent recreational or transportation machine.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   JC Penny 3 speed (Sturmey Archer) posted by JONathan on 6/9/2003 at 9:48:58 PM
Check the headbadge on the headtube (the tube that holds the handlebar stem). If it has "made in Austria" on it, you have a well constructed bike frame, at least. If it has the cottered cranks instead of a one-piece crank, that is a sign of better quality; although one-piece cranks can be fairly high grade, just heavy. How does it ride? If it feels clunky and heavy handling, you probably would be better with a Raleigh "sports" which appear in thrift stores for about $30. I grew up with an Austrian 3 sp. put out by Sears under J.C. Higgins and Free Spirt names. Fine bikes for use in fitness conditioning as they are easy riding, stable and they require lots of "carbs" to move down the road.
The Steyr=Daimler-Puch bikes (Austria) were not clunky. You may have a "Komet" hub, which is very good, too. Good luck...JONathan

   Austrian bicycles posted by John E on 6/10/2003 at 3:29:59 AM
Austrian bikes are great. (Sorry, couldn't resist!)

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot UX-10 ? posted by: D. C. Wilson on 6/9/2003 at 1:50:22 PM
Need counsel on identifying a mid 70s 50 cm c to c Peugeot road bike. 7-digit tin strip riveted to underside of bottom bracket. White. Peugeot in plain block black letters on down tube. No model name. Checkerboard with lion in red box on seat tube. Smooth Nervex lugs, not the curly-ques. 531 sticker remnant on down tube, but can't tell if it says whole frame or main triangle only. Simplex rear drop out with derailleur hanger (not the bolt on variety). Atax stem with allen wrench nut. Atax Guidon Phillipe bars. Unmarked head set. Fork has nice crown. Very little bend to forks. Fork lowers chromed. Red,white and blue decals separate fork chrome from fork paint. No chrome on chain stays or rear drop out. Chain wheels and cranks are Type 63 Stronglight. Rear derailleur looks like Simplex Super LJ 615. Front derailleur Simplex also. Simplex shifters on down tube. Mafac Racer brakes with unexpected Diacomp levers. Rigida red label rims (little spoke shims in spoke holes) with high flange Normandy hubs and simplex quick releases front and back. Seat an unimpressive plastic Selle Royale from Italy. Rides sweet. Very good shape. Bought to strip components for a Geminiani, but now have love for it. Is it some weird PX-10 variant? a UX-10? Or something I haven't heard of yet? Thanks in advance.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot UX-10 ? posted by Tom on 6/9/2003 at 8:42:46 PM
The frame description sounds like PR-10, which was 2nd in line of the 3 tubular tired racing models in the mid 70's.

The top of the line PX10 used 531DB tubing and had chrome fork and stay ends. Peugeot also used the Reynolds decal on the forks on this model, unlike most other manufacturers.

The PR10 used Reynolds 531 and had chrome only on the fork ends.

The PA10 did not use Reynolds 531 tubing. It had chrome on the fork ends only.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot UX-10 ? posted by D.C. Wilson on 6/10/2003 at 6:08:07 AM
Your knowledge is to spell the French phonetically, for-me-dah-bla. Thank you so much.

Does this mean that the Rigida red label clinchers are something someone put on afterwards? The Diacompe levers, too? How about the seat? Would a Selle Royale have come originally, or would a Brooks or Ideale have been the ticket?

   RE:Peugeot PR-10 posted by D.C. Wilson on 6/10/2003 at 6:13:10 AM
Your comments are quite helpful also. Love the comment about the seam on the fork. Will go out and check mine right now. The ride is to spell the French phonetically, "Sue-play-maw!"

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot UX-10 ? posted by Tom on 6/10/2003 at 12:44:59 PM
During the 70's bike boom, manufactures were continuously running short on parts and would substitute whatever they could get to deliver the bikes to anxious dealers. Thereforefore it is often difficult to say what was original equipment. However, Peugeot was particularly loyal to French manufacturers at the time, so Italian components would be unlikely and Japanese would be unthinkable. I think it's safe to say that the Dia Compe levers are replacements for the original Mafacs. Normally, this model would be found with Mavic Monthlery rims and the saddle would have been Brooks or Ideale. I also suspect that the derailleur has been upgraded from a Simplex Prestige.

   Peugeot PR-10 posted by John E on 6/10/2003 at 3:35:23 AM
I concur with Tom. It is almost definitely a PR-10, which Peugeot later designated as PKN-10. If you can feel any difference between it and a PX-10, you are a far more sensitive cyclist than I! My 1980 PKN-10 is a superb all-rounder; my sole objection is the visible seam on the back of each fork blade. With its Reynolds 531 fork blades, a PX-10 would never have this problem.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   fuji "the finest" posted by: Thom on 6/9/2003 at 3:25:12 AM
I have a Fuji "the finest" bicycle which I know very little about, it seems like it was quite a good bicycle when it was new, the parts are al recogniseable name brands and the wheels are from the performance bicycle custom shop, it also came with a second crank and chain wheels that are "powercam" and still in the original box. any ideas as to how old the bike is and how much it would be valued at are appreciated.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   fuji posted by JONathan on 6/9/2003 at 8:14:40 AM
I'd guess about late '80's to early '90's. The "powercam" was out in 1986, somewhat like the "biopcae", only the powercam could be adapted to most chainrings. The newer "finest" is either AL or steel framed. Any Fuji bicycle is going to be a superb ride. They made only high quality machines...and at a very reasonable price. If yours is made with "TrueTemper" steel tubing, that is good stuff. It is a lot like the Ishiwata tubing, I believe, in that it is made "seamless" by a special process which is different from normal seamless tubing, which is made from a bar of steel that is pressed over a mandrel. Do you have a decal that specifies the tubing used? The craftsmanship is superb on Fujis. I would fix it up to ride....JONathan

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   fuji posted by Thom on 6/9/2003 at 11:35:09 AM
the decal is on the frame, as are all of the other decals, at the top of the seat tube surrounded by laurels ar the words "double butted chrome molybdenum steel tubing" does that put a more acurate date on it, it looks like an 80's bike to me, the way the cables are done and the joints on the tubing, maybe even late 70's.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   fuji posted by Tom on 6/9/2003 at 12:11:54 PM
The Finest model was extends back to at least the early 70's bike boom. The seat tube decal you described is typical for that era. The boom versions have chrome head lugs, fork ends and stay ends. The most popular colour was blue, but there was also a white version. However, the frames were entirely chromed underneath the paint and many owners stripped the paint.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   fuji posted by Thom on 6/10/2003 at 11:20:48 AM
this one has all that chrome and is white, it also looks as if it never fell over, I ride my bikes pretty agressively (full suspension downhill, go figure) and this looks like it has less than one day of my wear and tear on it, infact to worst blemishes could probably be worked out with a chemical rust strip, because I really don't se any scratches or marks in the paint at all, just a couple of rust spots.

MISC:   Bianchi Road Bike posted by: Glenn on 6/8/2003 at 11:10:26 PM
Does anyone know if Bianchi ever had any bicycles manafactured in Japan. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

   RE:RE:   Bianchi Road Bike posted by Warren on 6/9/2003 at 3:08:37 AM
I think Magny was an attempt to ceate a new alloy...more manganese or whatever. It's one of the mid grade bikes. Great commuter, rain bike with fenders, winterbike with studs etc. Worth keeping...until a nicer bike comes along and forces it out the door!...heh heh...it never ends.

   RE:RE:RE:   Bianchi Road Bike posted by Glenn on 6/9/2003 at 3:51:13 AM
Warren, Thanks for all the help and advice. It has been a pleasure and I really do appreciate you sharing your knowledge with me. I recenly aquired an old Robin Hood and that is how I found this site. Through info obtained from others I decided to buy it and love it (restoration project) and now I found a womens in mint condition I am going to surprise my wife. I am starting to ride again after a long time away from it. I think riding my bike beats taking all the medications for cholesterol, blood pressure etc. These do to the extra 50 pounds which I didn't have when I was riding all the time. You take care and I will post again I am sure.

   RE:MISC:   Bianchi Road Bike posted by Warren on 6/8/2003 at 11:21:05 PM
Lot's of them in the late 70's and 80's. Most of them were decent mid grade bikes with butted tubes. Some were sublime. I had an early 80's mens race frame with Ishwata O22 and campag dropouts with a Suntour Sprint group that was as nice as anything I've ridden to date.

The tubeset will be your first clue as to how nice the bike is. You fill in the blanks with the rest

      Bianchi Road Bike posted by John E on 6/9/2003 at 1:12:36 AM
If it has an English-threaded BB (1.37x24, LH threaded fixed cup), it was made in Japan. I concur with the previous response to your inquiry.

   RE:   Bianchi Road Bike posted by Glenn on 6/9/2003 at 1:34:27 AM
It does have butted frame, quick release hubs, chrome ended front fork, and Suntour Montech. Bike in excellent shape less some partial decals. I was wondering if it was worth keeping and putting new tires on to ride on short distance runs. Oh! the frame also has a sticker that says Magny on the forks and the seat tube. Is this what the frame is made of? Again thanks! and thanks for the previous replies.

   RE:RE:   Bianchi Road Bike posted by JONathan on 6/10/2003 at 6:38:56 AM
Glenn, the "Magny" either "V" or "X" suffix was Ishiwata tubing. Real good stuff for touring bikes, a bit heavy for road racers, but only a bit more weight than the Ishiwata 022. Good luck, Jonathan

WANTED:   Schwinn Continental Seat & Pedals posted by: Plavery on 6/8/2003 at 2:28:32 PM
I have a 1975 Schwinn Continental that I 'm trying to get back to original condition. The Wald pedals that are on it are shot and I have a Trek seat on it . Ebay so far has been no help.

   RE:Schwinn Continental Seat & Pedals posted by Dave on 6/9/2003 at 2:26:16 PM
You could also try www.bikepartsusa.com,they had alloy ATB style pedals for $13 that I presently use on my commuting Varsity.These are much sturdier that the original ones.

   RE:WANTED:   Schwinn Continental Seat & Pedals posted by Eric Amlie on 6/8/2003 at 4:10:49 PM
If the saddle was the rubber/plastic covered one that is embossed on the sides with the "Schwinn Approved" logo, I think I have one that you can have for the cost of shipping.

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Schwinn Continental Seat & Pedals posted by Kevin K on 6/8/2003 at 5:27:34 PM
Hi. If you want to do a really nice upgrade to your 75 Continental use a set of ATOM 1/2" shaft pedals. These were used from Schwinn on early 70's Continental's and Super Sports. Then hunt yourself up a set of NOS or excellent used Schwinn Approved toe clips and straps. I believe all these items were French made and really add a quality look to the bike without compromising originality too badly. And it'll look pretty hot! Kevin K

   Schwinn Continental Seat & Pedals posted by John E on 6/9/2003 at 1:16:14 AM
Upgraded versus original -- the eternal question! Nice idea, Kevin.

By the way, I installed clips and straps on a similar-vintage Varsity. If I recall correctly, I needed only to punch out one of the reflectors.

   RE:Schwinn Continental Seat & Pedals posted by Kevin K on 6/10/2003 at 1:44:06 AM
Hi John. Thanks!

   RE:WANTED:   Schwinn Continental Seat & Pedals posted by P Lavery on 7/19/2003 at 7:13:39 PM
Thanks for everyone's commments. I found a NOS Schwinn
Viscount seat and a set of 1/2" KKT rat trap pedals
So my 1975 Continental back on the road again. I even installed a Cat Eye computer to see how slow I'm going.