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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Schwinn World traveler posted by: Robby on 6/5/2003 at 9:48:08 PM
I was at Seattle Central Community College last month and saw a Schwinn "World Traveler" with moustache bars and a Shimano 3-speed hub. Was this a stock model? How old is it? The Rivendell site makes m-bars seem like kind of a delicious secret.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††NEED PARTS? posted by: Tom on 6/5/2003 at 4:49:52 PM
Our local, large item pick-up is this weekend, so I'll be out scouting for bicycles. If there is anything specific that any of you need, e-mail me and I'll add it to my list.

Past experience indicates that it will be mostly deparment store bikes and entry level lightweights from the bike boom era. Primarily, Sekine (A, B & C models), CCM (Elites, Elans & Targas), Raleigh (Records & Grand Prix), Peugeot (AO8, UO8/18, UE8/18) & Gitane (Gran Sports & Alpines). So please, no requests for a "1956, 54 cm, Cinelli S. C. frame in silver", OK guys? Also, no requests for Schwinn stuff, as we rarely see any up here in Canada. I'm thinking more along the lines of that rear lens than JONathan needs for his UE8.

It doesn't cost me anything to pick this stuff up, so all I'm asking is that you re-imburse for any shipping charges. I'll send a digital image of the item after I pick it up, so you can decide if suits your needs. There's no commitment on any of this stuff, as I can just chuck it later, if you decide you don't want it. I'll probably strike out on the majority of items, but if one or two of you get something you need, it's all worthwhile.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††NEED PARTS? posted by Rob on 6/5/2003 at 5:48:03 PM
Good luck, Tom...it's lots of fun...a treasure hunt...just around the corner may be that elusive highend prize...a full Campy whatever...DeRosa, Cinelli, Masi...hey, I'm dreaming!!! , but I've always found the search well worth the effort...I don't know how big a city you live in, but hopefully you'll find enough to make it all worth the effort...

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††NEED PARTS? posted by JONathan on 6/5/2003 at 6:10:00 PM
Lucky you! They used to have the pick-ups here. Yes, that lens is an elusive part, probably due to it's the first thing to get smashed or knocked off the bike. It's more of a face guard for the bulb, than a lens. I was considering making one from scrap reflector lens, which would be in keeping with the motto of "Don't throw ANYTHING away". Have fun, JONathan

   RE:†††NEED PARTS? posted by Eric Amlie on 6/5/2003 at 8:07:56 PM
My personal Holy Grail of bicycles is a blue '63 Schwinn Superior. I am interested in any and all Schwinn Superiors though. Please don't pass them by. Thanks!

   RE:RE:†††NEED PARTS? posted by mc on 6/6/2003 at 12:53:18 PM
I would catch the next flight out to wherever you are and then buy you and your family a nice dinner for a '60 Continental in decent shape.

   1960 Varsinentals posted by John E on 6/6/2003 at 2:51:35 PM
Now that you mention suicide-shift Varsinentals, I have not seen any on eBay for at least a year.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††what dreams are made of posted by: Brian L. on 6/5/2003 at 3:14:52 PM

   †††what dreams are made of posted by John E on 6/5/2003 at 7:37:39 PM
We can only hope that someone who appreciates old bicycles buys the lot and parts it out on eBay. If I had the space and the time and didn't live at the opposite corner of the continent, I might be interested.

FOR SALE:†††1978 Scwhinn Traveller Frame/Fork posted by: Joe on 6/5/2003 at 7:05:51 AM
Just a note if anyone is interested, I have a '78 Schwinn Traveler, Ladies frame and fork listed on eBay, it's very clean with almost perfect paint. I used the components to restore a men's version. This was what appeared to be maybe a new old stock or just never ridden bike. Even the tires were original and still had the the rubber flashing on the tread!
It can be seen at:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3611584856&category=22681&rd=1

AGE / VALUE:†††Great bike collection posted by: Warren on 6/5/2003 at 12:32:24 AM
Here's a choice selection from an amazing bike shop in Toronto...single speed roadsters are the early bikes, lightweights are later. Here's my favourite....http://www.bikespecialties.com/vintage/1934ccmpacefollower.html

Dig the BSA chainring! Lance size.

Follow the pull down menu for other bikes.

   Great bike collection posted by John E on 6/6/2003 at 2:55:45 PM
Fabulous website. Thanks for the lead! My favorite:


I cannot look at an Italian bike with Cambio Corsa gear without thinking about the photo of Frank Berto trying to shift one ["The Dancing Chain"].

WANTED:†††American Eagle Semi Pro posted by: Dennis R. Jacobsen on 6/4/2003 at 8:15:54 PM
Purchased an American Eagle Semi Pro in the early 70's and wonder if it is worth updating the brakes to meet current safety standards, i.e. being able to lock either tire on dry pavement here in Washington state I has Shiman Center pull brakes with an auxillary lever above the brake lever to allow braking without removing hands from dropped handlebars. I found a message using Google but have been unable to find it in the Discussion area.

Any advice or info about this bike appreciated


   RE:WANTED:†††American Eagle Semi Pro posted by Walter on 6/5/2003 at 2:19:59 AM
Shimano makes modern dual pivots in a longer reach that would increase your stopping power. However it would still require modifying your fork and the brakes are expensive.

Before that redo your brakes with modern stainless steel cables and install some Kool Stop or Scott-Matthauser brake pads. I'll bet that will give you a very satisfactory improvement.

If by "auxillary levers" you mean those "safety" levers that attach to the side of the hoods you need to just get rid of them as they'll hurt braking performance considerably.

   ††American Eagle Semi Pro posted by John E on 6/5/2003 at 3:34:15 AM
The only bicycle I have ever bought new was a 1971 American Eagle Semi Pro, which I rode for 20 years and over 40K miles, until the frame broke. The front brake, a 610-length Weinmann Vainqueur 999 centerpull clone from DiaCompe, was perfectly adequate, once I switched to KoolStop pads. The 750-length rear was always noticeably weaker. You could increase rear braking power by installing a drop bolt, but first read my next paragraph.

Washington law sounds like California's, i.e., a bicycle must have a brake which can produce a skid on dry pavement. This totally bogus law demonstrates a fundamental misunderstanding of physics and of bicycling and deserves to be disregarded. What you need is just enough braking power on the FRONT wheel to lift the rear wheel off the ground, as this is the scenario for maximum deceleration [www.sheldonbrown.com]. A front wheel skid will result in instant loss of control, and a rear wheel skid will not stop you particularly rapidly (and can also easily lead to loss of control, of course).

I love old road bicycles, but I would not invest much time or money in a first-generation SemiPro; even though the frame was Ishiwata double-butted CrMo, the weight was excessive and the very mushy ride quality was inferior to that of even a Peugeot UO-8. Later Nishikis were FAR better.

   RE:WANTED:†††American Eagle Semi Pro posted by JONathan on 6/5/2003 at 5:35:25 AM
In my experience, how a bicyle brakes is a composite function of the rim surface, the trueness of the wheel (including bearings), the brake pad compound, the adjustment of the brake pads, the brake itself, the cable tension and the sling/yolk cable length (center pulls). Improvement in any one area is going to improve braking, which can place increased stress on yje brake component itself. I've had brakes that when adjusted and tuned will, under maximum pressure, practically snap off the pivot bolt! In other words, the brakes were not designed, IMHO, to function with the forces that can be delivered to the rim. To me, a good brake never reaches it's limits under ANY forces a rider could apply. Unfortunately, brakes from the '70's bike boom are pretty weak, with a few exceptions. Usually, you can tell by just visual inspection the quality level of a brake. If it looks flimsy, it.... So, if you are planning on riding the bike, those brakes are worth the upgrade. It's the single most important improvement that you can make. Tires are a close second. Those Weinmann "999" 610/750's are able to lock up without freaking a guy out with flex. I come in at 220# and they meet the demand. What I say about brakes; When you need them, that's when you find out how good they really are. JONathan

AGE / VALUE:†††Grease posted by: John on 6/4/2003 at 8:05:56 PM
In the past 2-3 years I've restored (made road ready) for than 100 bikes of all types, mostly lightweights. I don't get into painting, so restoration for me means strip down to frame, clean repack all bearings and replace broken parts, and clean/wax frame. Needless to say, I go through a lot of grease, and therein lies my question. I usually use automobile moly, but have also tried Duralube synthetic and white lithium (which I read in a repair manual is the thing to use). I know I could use bike shop grease at $10 a tub, but the other stuff I use runs about $3. The auto grease is a bit thick but seems to have a lot of staying power/water resistance. On the other hand, the lithium and synthetic seem to have very little body at all. In fact, they seem like they would run out fairly quickly. I'm not interested in trying to eliminate the last ounce of rolling resistance, just looking for your suggestions as to the best compromise. Thanks. John

   †††Grease posted by John E on 6/5/2003 at 3:37:55 AM
I think your intuition is leading you in the right direction, i.e., the heavier automotive greases will last longer, with marginally higher rolling resistance. I use the white teflon bike shop grease and buy it in tubs to keep the cost reasonable.

   RE:†††Grease posted by JONathan on 6/5/2003 at 5:44:14 AM
I'm going to try general purpose aircraft grease on a BB. It is just a bit heavier than the usual LBS grease and it probably is pretty durable.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Grease posted by Wings on 6/5/2003 at 7:02:06 AM
John -- I do about 40 to 50 bikes a year and I do not paint them. I do the same think you are doing. Today I just finished a 7 speed GT 20 inch wheel mountain bike. Tomorrow I start on a Schwinn Clear Creek ATB. A Peugot and a Raleigh are waiting to be done next. Several years ago I thought I was going to be doing a lot of painting but I have only painted about 5 bikes in 6 years! I touch up sometimes (nail polish and light spray).

Here is the point I wish to make. AFter has new cables, cable housing as needed and all metalic surfaces are clean and shiny and the frame has been cleaned and waxed and brought to a good shine, and with new tires -- the bike looks awesome! Half the time I still can't believe that it looks that great considering what I started with!

One of you guys has indicated in the past that to restore is to clean and repair and that the old paint gives character. In other words don't paint. I agree! However, I know I will try to paint a couple of frames that really need it this summer -- but that is the exception.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Grease posted by Bryant on 6/5/2003 at 11:16:48 AM
I've used marine grease, which is a little thicker but I figure if it can stand up to salt water it will work on bike hubs, especially commuters.
I've read somewhere that you should not use lithium grease on bike parts, especially where steel might come in contact with aluminum. The article said that basically you are creating a litium battery and that the aluminum parts will suffer. Anyone else read that??

   RE:††Grease posted by Eric Amlie on 6/5/2003 at 1:03:25 PM
For general use I use Mystic marine wheel bearing grease that I buy for about $5 a tub from my local farm supply store. I see the mechanics at my favorite local bike shop using the same thing so I assume it's ok.

On my good stuff (vintage Campy Nouvo Record hubs etc.) I buy some stuff called Rock and Roll in a tube. It's white and very tacky and "clingy". If you put some between your thumb and index finger and pull them apart it will stick and form a good string between them. I think this is a good quality in a grease. I am suspicious that the ball bearings in thick grease may simply push a track through the grease and after that be running essentially dry.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Grease posted by John on 6/6/2003 at 2:35:52 AM
Thanks for the tips guys. Hey wings, I'm glad to know there's other nutcases like me out there. This mountain bike craze has provided me with a lot of bikes to "restore" because people give away, throw away, or sell for next to nothing quality lightweights, then head on down to walmart for a shiny new $59 Huffy. Go figure. John

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Grease posted by John on 6/6/2003 at 2:38:38 AM
Thanks for the tips guys. Hey wings, I'm glad to know there's other nutcases like me out there. This mountain bike craze has provided me with a lot of bikes to "restore" because people give away, throw away, or sell for next to nothing quality lightweights, then head on down to walmart for a shiny new $59 Huffy. Go figure. John

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Grease posted by andym on 6/6/2003 at 2:40:39 AM
I found a very good grease at RadioShack,of all places! Its called "Lube Gel",part# 64-2326.Its a synthetic lube,kinda looks like vaseline,comes in a 3 oz. tube.This stuff costs about 4 bucks,which is'nt cheap but its still alot cheaper than a comparable grease you can buy at a bike shop. This little tube will last me about four bikes and I'm pretty wasteful with grease.If you think about it ,one dollar a bike is pretty darn cheap.I personally won't use automotive grease on a bicycle.I also will not use lithium grease anymore.I've seen hubs wear out fast with that stuff.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Peugeot UO-18 renovation posted by: Amy Barden on 6/4/2003 at 6:14:51 PM
Hello All,

I recently bought a Peugeot UO-18 (mixte) for $20 at a local bicycle auction. It is most likely late-1970's due to the placement of the stem-shifters and other details. Most or all parts on the bike seem to be original from what I've learned about the UO-8/UO-18 on this and other websites (including Simplex, Weinmann, Nervar, and Shimano parts/components). I am trying to learn as much about this bike as possible so I can properly restore it (perhaps with minor modifications/updates), although this will be a first time experience for me and my fiancé, who is also rebuilding an early 1990s REI Novara Strada road bike he got for cheap at the same auction. With only a little cleaning and some truing of the wheels, my Peugeot UO-18 has ridden quite well since I got it a month ago, but this is my first road bike, so I have little to compare it to.
Here are my questions – hope there aren’t too many to throw out all at once :)
1) The bicycle has relatively straight handlebars (also likely original) but I'm interested in possibly switching them with drop handlebars so I can ride more comfortably and efficiently -- I've been commuting about 16 miles round trip three times per week on this bike, and am interested in doing longer weekend rides. I know that French measurements sometimes vary from U.S./British measurements (I read Sheldon Brown's webpage on French bicycles) and am wondering if I can put modern drop handlebars from a local bike shop on this bike or if I should look for similar era UO-8 drop handlebars that might fit better?
2) S. Brown says that many late-1970s French bicycle stems and handlebars are flimsy (AVA brand) and should be replaced, but my stem reads "C--A" (I can't read the middle letter), so I don’t know if the stem will be a problem. Should I replace it, or keep it for now since it seems to be functioning fine and has no dents, cracks, or other obvious problems?
3) The gears sometime slip a little when in the highest gears. Does anyone have any tips about how to best eliminate this problem, or is this a result of the long distance between the stem-shifters and the gears? (someone in this discussion group previously wrote that the distance between the stem shifters and gears was a problem in the late-70s UO-8/UO-18)
4) The frame has many rusted chips on some sections. I’ve read lots of tips on painting frames on this website’s “Restoration Tips” discussion page, but do any of you have any ideas on good ways to deal with chipped paint and get rid of (and prevent) future rust problems without having to repaint the entire frame? I’ve looked at the CyclArt webpage and their repainting/restoration options (really nice and could bring it back to its original condition, it appears), but I don’t have that kind of money right now to spend on repainting, and I’m not sure that’s the best option anyway. I know that repainting can hurt resale as a vintage bicycle, but I’m not sure this bike is that desirable in the vintage market.
5) Is it possible to put clipless pedals on this bicycle? I don’t think the pedals are original since they were rubbing against the crankarm when I first bought the bike, although the crankarm is original Nervar.
6) My reference books right now are Bicycling Magazine’s “Complete Book of Bicycle Maintenance and Repair” and Tom Cuthbertson’s “Anybody’s Bike Book”. Are there any other books or reference manuals that would be especially helpful for working on this UO-18?
Anyway, I know it might be a little silly to use this bicycle for serious fitness and commuting road cycling, but this is the fastest bike I have right now (my two other bicycles are mountain bikes), and I’d like to get this little Peugeot into the best shape possible without destroying its character.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Peugeot UO-18 renovation posted by Keith on 6/4/2003 at 7:42:01 PM
When you say the gears slip do you mean it sometimes shifts by itself, or that the chain skips on the cogs? If it's the latter it could be a worn cog(s) (time to get a new freewheel and probably a new chain to go with it). I'd use whatever works for touch up -- Testors model paint, etc. I've read about French thread pedals, but I've always been able to put 9/16 x 20 pedals on the French bikes I've had, so I believe you could go clipless. You should be able to put drop bars on it -- I have one of those stems -- I can't remember whether it's CVA or CTA -- someone else here will know. French steerer tubes can be smaller so you may need to sand a new stem to get it to fit. For repair I either ask a pro mechanic friend (he's light years beyond the typical LBS wrench), check what Sheldon Brown has to say, or figure it out on my own. MOST IMPORTANT: there's nothing silly about using this bike for fitness and/or commuting. I commute on vintage bikes and their rugged simplicity makes them better suited for that task than many contemporary bikes.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Peugeot UO-18 renovation posted by Amy on 6/4/2003 at 8:30:02 PM
Thanks for the reply and the info. The gears shift by themselves, usually from the highest to the next lowest, and often after I've been riding in that gear at a steady pace for a while. The gear changing/slipping is not accompanied by any clicking, grinding, or other noises; it just happens all-of-a sudden, and seems to happily settle into the next gear down. My fiance thinks the front derailleur might be screwed on a little crooked or might be a little bent. The derailleur cage is not very parallel to the chain, so perhaps if we straighten that the problem will be fixed. What do you think?

However, I just read through the sections on front and rear deraillers in the "Bicycle Maintenance and Repair" book, and there are lots of things that might need adjusting or fine tuning. Perhaps I should try all these basic maintenance tips before asking for more help from you guys.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Peugeot UO-18 renovation posted by steve on 6/4/2003 at 10:53:54 PM
Amen to that. One of the forgotten bits of bicycle history is just how good the basic bike-boom "10-speed" is as practical transportation.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Peugeot UO-18 renovation posted by JONathan on 6/4/2003 at 11:06:24 PM
Amy, mine looks just like this one...http://www.yellowjersey.org/peug63a.jpg

I'd keep running it until you can find a thrift store or garage sale bike with Japanese components. Then, I'd swap out as much as I could, including the wheels!
Removing the freewheel takes a 2-prong remover which I had to make! And, even then it is a tricky event. If you can find a 27 x 1 1/4 Araya alloy rim wheel and good cluster, I'd just swap.
The SunTour V series is very good for rear derailer replacement. The slipping I presume is from a larger cog to a smaller one. Right? That's most likely a tension adjustment of the little shim clutch in the shift lever assembly. The wingnut can be tightened a bit to stop that irritation.
If the wing nut is busted off (chances are it is) you can use an 8mm (I think) socket or vice grips if you aren't particular about how the hex bolt ends up looking. The shim acts like a clutch, hence the term "friction shifter", and if it not exerting sufficient pressure on the shim, the lever slips a bit and the derailer shifts automatically to the next higher (read smaller cog) gear.
Good luck...JONathan

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Peugeot UO-18 renovation posted by Rob on 6/5/2003 at 12:44:50 AM
The stem sounds like its a "CNA"...I have one, but can't remember if it'll take a non-French bar...I'll check when I go home. In any event it isn't too big a problem to slightly resize a Japanese stem, or whatever, (ISO) to fit...22.2 to 22.0mm, then you will definitely have a full range of all sorts of bars...I have an AO-8 set up with Japanese stem and bars...and the MAFAC brake lever clamps fit fine(I assume you'll change to the drop bar type brake levers...MAFAC's shouldn't be too hard to find depending on the city you live in...)

As to the pedals, I haven't checked that out...I don't use any of my several Peugeots for commuting...I think I'll check that out, too...I'll let you know. I agree with JONathan...tightening the little wing nut set up on the side of shifter should be the fix for that problem...chain skip, though, can be an annoying problem...I recently had to go back (temporarily) to the old very stretched chain on my dirty weather bike...it skipped on the small freewheel cog with a used, but better, chain. When I get to it, I'll have to change out both the chain and freewheel together...

   Peugeot UO-18 posted by John E on 6/5/2003 at 3:48:01 AM
Since my employer is moving to a business park 7 miles / 12 km from home and since I am dropping a bundle of $ into having the Capo refinished professionally, my Peugeot UO-8 will soon be a daily commuter, as was its predecessor a few years back, until it cracked a chainstay.

If I were in your position, I would strongly consider used SunTour derailleurs and non-stem shift levers (I use those outstanding SunTour ratchet barcons from the 1970s), a cotterless crank, aluminum rims (mandatory for braking ksafety), KoolStop brake pads, and, of course, the drop bars. [Sheldon has a picture of the AVA stem of death on his website -- it sounds as though you are OK in that department.] With the new crank, you can easily avoid the French/English pedal problem. Do not attempt to mount 9/16x20 pedals into 14x1.25 crank eyes -- that quarter mm diameter difference and slight thread pitch mismatch can irreparably damage the threads of the crank, and the pedals can strip out at an inopportune (i.e., dangerous) moment.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Peugeot UO-18 renovation posted by Rob on 6/5/2003 at 3:56:27 AM
OK...I checked the stem...it is definitely 'CTA'(very faded letters on a kind of black background foil inset)...and it looks like it may take a Japanese bar...but, as usual, it may be best to take it to a used bike store and check for a proper fit...

I checked two cottered Nervar cranks...one definitely off a mid to late '70's UO-8, and the other...definitely French-cottered (9.0mm), but of uncertain provenance...on the UO-8 crank, a Japanese pedal set fit perfectly on the crank side, but I had trouble with the left side...???... The other crankset...it was a perfect fit on both sides...I think Peugeot had ISO pedal mounting holes, at least for some of the time. I think you'll find pedals won't be a problem...but don't force anything, just in case. And you can always get it tapped out ...With bikes, always expect the unexpected...

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Peugeot UO-18 renovation posted by Rob on 6/5/2003 at 4:10:28 AM
A second thought...If the mounting holes are re-tapped, would there be enough metal left for proper threads? Maybe someone will post...or check at a bike store...

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Peugeot UO-18 renovation posted by Amy on 6/5/2003 at 5:38:18 AM
Thank you all so much for the great feedback! (I was concerned my initial post was too long and tedious to read) Iím going to check out the wing nut on the shift lever assembly tomorrow, since it would be great to fix that gear problem ASAP. I'm working on getting some of parts you all recommended in the next week and will surely let you know how it goes -- drop handlebars, brake levers, and pedals (these have to be replaced no matter what) are on the list, but I'll also check into derailleurs, a different crankset, a stem if necessary, updated break pads and rims if necessary for safety, etc. I'll look around for the makers you guys mentioned. I live in the Sacramento area and there are lots of good bike shops here and in neighboring towns.

Thanks for forwarding the URL for the photos of the UO-8 and UO-18 JONathan. My bike is just like the UO-18 pictured, except that I have stem shifters, my grips are black instead of white, and my frame is burgandy. The Peugeot logo on my tube is also larger (it's mostly gold and black). And Rob, it definitely could say CTA on the stem; you described the tiny foil inset very well, but even with a flashlight I canít read the middle letter on either side of my stem, so Iíll trust your read. As long as itís not the stem of death . . . .

I also appreciate the comments about the "rugged simplicity" of these kinds of bicycles. I initially had doubts about renovating this bike for serious or very frequent use because of a few looks and comments I received at a bike shop that I will likely not visit again soon, but most shops have had extremely helpful and encouraging staffs who appreciate older bicycles. If anyone knows of any great shops that specialize in older bicycles or parts in Northern California (S.F./Bay area included), I'd be eager to check them out while I'm working on this Peugeot.

Thanks again to everyone, and please don't hesitate if you have more ideas, since I will check back often and will likely post updates or short questions as the project develops.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Peugeot UO-18 renovation posted by Rob on 6/5/2003 at 5:34:42 PM
Here are a couple of examples of the type of second bike shop that is an excellent source for the bits and pieces for restoring old bikes, the first is in Vancouver; the second in Portland...I'm sure most larger West Coast cities will have places like these...the staff are typically very nice, helpful people...usually in old low rent commercial district:


   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Peugeot UO-18 renovation posted by JONathan on 6/5/2003 at 7:58:44 PM
Thanks for posting those sites, Rob, especially the "Pedal Works" in B.C.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Peugeot UO-18 renovation posted by Keith on 6/6/2003 at 2:30:53 PM
In addition to the questions you list, there are other sort of standard things to do to get an old bike road worthy. Basically you want to disassemble and clean everything that you can. Hub, bottom bracket and headset bearings should be replaced and packed with good grease (Phil's is great). Cables and cable housings are a good thing to replace too.

AGE / VALUE:†††Schmelzer Bicycle Kansas City, MO posted by: Jackal on 6/4/2003 at 1:49:01 PM
Anyone have any information on these bikes? I know they were made in KC by J. F. Schmelzer & Sons in the very early 1900's. They were known as Schmelzer Arms out of Leavenworth, KS in the late 1800's. Thanks.


AGE / VALUE:†††Cinelli TOURING frame posted by: Chris Higham on 6/3/2003 at 8:33:43 PM
I've got a Cinelli touring frame from approx the mid 70's (I've had it and used it regularly for the last 15yrs). Its frame no.5730, has a very long wheelbase, large rake on the forks and no braze-ons at all except mudgaurd eyes. When I bought it I was told it was columbus tubing and nothing else about it (no suprise about it being Columbus). I was later told by a cycling friend that it was from about 1975 and columbus SP tubing, however I am unsure and would like to check this out. I emailed Cinelli themselves and they told me that there had been a fire in the factory sometime since it was made and they had lost all of their records, so they couldn't help me at all.
Any help would be appreciated, thx. Chris

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Cinelli TOURING frame posted by Steven on 6/4/2003 at 4:15:07 AM
Try to contact Maark Petry at: http://www.petry.org/markp/cinolog.htm

Send him a few photos too.

AGE / VALUE:†††Jeunet Mixte posted by: Gralyn on 6/3/2003 at 4:37:28 PM
I have a Jeunet mixte - currently, all the components have been removed, cleaned and polished, etc. The saddle was trash - and now I am working on the frame - cleaning and polishing. It's a light blue, with black ornate lugs, black pin striping, chrome forks (fully chrome) and chrome-looking decals.
I haven't looked really hard - but I can find very little on Jeunet. Does anyone know where I can find some info on Jeunet? This mixte is the only one I have seen in person. I have yet to see another around these parts.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Jeunet Mixte posted by Tom on 6/3/2003 at 5:56:58 PM
Graylyn, I had a 1974 Jeunet Pro for a short time and still have some catalogue info. Assuming that it's one one of the "boom" bikes, Jeunet had 3 ladies models. The chrome front forks indicate that it's probably the #5L, a.k.a. the "Classique". Original spec'd equipment for this model was Simplex derailleurs, Mafac racer brakes, Jeunet alloy bars & stem, Normandy large flange hubs with quick release, 27x1-1/4 steel rims, 3 pin cottered steel crankset. Frame was constructed of Alleges tubing. The model was competition for the Peugeot UO18, so stripping one of those for parts will provide you with a reasonable facsimile.

My friends and myself always considered the Jeunet line to be slightly better value and build than Peugeot, which is why I ended up with a Pro instead of a PX10. Unfortunately, the Pro was damaged beyond repair, but everone who had tried it, loved it. Most people would consider Jeunet comparable to Peugeot, Gitane or Mercier, though the decals and paint were generally not as nice. Jeunet also didn't have as wide a distribution network, so was not as well known. This makes them one of the rarest of the major French manufacturers. The US distributor during the boom was Beacon. The Canadian distributor, Shields, did a better job and they were more popular in Canada. Hope this helps.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Jeunet Mixte posted by Gralyn on 6/3/2003 at 8:27:59 PM
Yes, all the equipment you listed - that's what was on it. I have everything except the original saddle. Actually, the front wheel had been replaced with one very similar in appearance - but, I am sure I have a front steel rim with Normandy hub that will match it.
I got it a year ago - and immediately stripped all the components - with the hopes of finding a men's frame sometime. But, as the Jeunet is so rare around here - I have been thinking about building it back - just to have as part of the "collection". Maybe I could even get my daughter to ride it. My sons call my bikes "old man bikes". They each have an "old man bike" that they ride. Maybe my daughter can have an "old woman bike".

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Jeunet Mixte posted by JONathan on 6/3/2003 at 8:48:50 PM
Gralyn, keep, keep keep. I have a Jeunet double-triangle that's in mint, I say very mint, condition. My French corral wouldn't be complete without it. It rides like about you'd expect (UO-8), but it has a better craftsmanship for a mass marketed bike than any I have. I think it's close enough to be an individual preference thing, but I think it rides slightly better than the UO-8 for everyday cruising. They are rare as hen's teeth around here. I have some info on it that was e-mailed by a kind person who knew a bit about the brand. I'll try to dig it out. As for "old man's bike". I just tell 'em that they are confusing "age" with "intelligence". Seriously, they may become "in", again. They have all the attributes...the '60's retro thing. All the more reason to hang onto that Jeunet. What'd you have to give for it? (if I may be so bold). I paid out $30 for mine about 2 yeras, back....JONathan

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:†††Ernie Clements lugwork etc posted by: Roger Bean on 6/3/2003 at 3:45:19 PM
I have owned an RO Harrison (?) 25" lightweight since 1964, I need help to positively identify/authenticate it, and information on the unusual "Clements" rear dropouts specifically for Simplex gear. I can supply pictures to anyone who may be able to help.

AGE / VALUE:†††lotus tange prestige w/sugino 75 group posted by: ned on 6/3/2003 at 1:32:55 PM
was wondering about this marque?have a 58cm. with black and white fade paint peal stem and carbon chainwheel.does anyone know more about this marque?it has sugino 75 racing series painted on the top tube.

   †††lotus tange prestige posted by John E on 6/3/2003 at 2:38:08 PM
Prestige was Tange's best butted CrMo; it is world-class tubing.

I heard somewhere that the Lotus frames were built by a Japanese company in Taiwan. They were generally of high quality, with very competitive prices. Point www.google.com at "Lotus bicycles" for several interesting discussion forums, etc.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:†††lotus tange prestige w/sugino 75 group posted by Keith on 6/3/2003 at 5:00:15 PM
I believe Lotus was an American company that designed bikes that were built in Japan. I agree with John's suggestion --I've been to a Lotus web page and it's full of information, including an entry I did describing my Campy NR equiped Competition model. I can't vouch for the accuracy anything else on that page, however. One contributor claims to be the daughter of the guy who started Lotus. Her account sounds plausible.

AGE / VALUE:†††Carlton, Raleigh posted by: Elvis on 6/3/2003 at 2:06:32 AM
Also picked up a Raliegh Carlton. 3/4 chromed fork, short tiny fenders, downtube shifters. Neat lugs, the headbadge has the Raleigh heron in the middle but all kinds of other colorful stuff in an oval around it. And it has the Carlton logo in a red circle ont he fork above the chrome. Any idea if this is one of those valueable Carlton lightweights?

FOR SALE:†††Peugeot PX10 posted by: Josh Stillerman on 6/2/2003 at 8:51:11 PM
Peugeot PX10 for sale. Renyolds 531, Brooks Saddle, Campy rear derailleur, sewups. Rough paint. Very light. $55