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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Gitane V1Pro posted by: J.A. Collins on 9/15/2003 at 5:12:44 AM
Good evening -- what fun it is reading all of the many posts from the experts and knowledgeable owners of so many brands and models. Here's a question for you. Found a Gitane touring style bike today. Has all chrome forks, and no tubing labels except the Gitane labels and one small label on each side of the top tube back by the seat post end that reads "V1PRO" -- I can't find it anywhere using any search engines. The crank is a TA, brakes are Weinmann "symetric" red label. Seat is brown Avocet -- it has nice quill alloy pedals and a nice old Zefal pump. The front decal looks like an eBay item that just closed -- it was advertised as a 531 frame. Mine is a burgundy or deep red color. Anyone got any ideas? I am not familiar with the brake set era -- and the front and rear derailers are updated mis-matches, as are the mavic rims and tires.

Ebay item is 3625079157. I will take pictures of this one tomorrow if there are any Gitane frame and model experts who could drop me an email so that I could get your analysis. Thanks, all.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Gitane V1Pro posted by Rob on 9/16/2003 at 12:42:07 AM
Hi J.A.

I can't say I've heard of the V1Pro...can you give us some more ideas on the decal styles?...the brakes sound like center pulls, how about the shifters and the handlebar stem?? The 531 tubing would suggest it's at least a mid range bike...Thanks for the info on the ebay frame that model is the classic mid 70's Tour de France...and it's exactly the same frame as I have...color and by the look of it, the size, too...I see it has what I think is a Stronglight 93 crank...if so that alone would be worth the purchase price to me!!!

Thanks for posting...

AGE / VALUE:   Miyata 'One Hundred' posted by: eric on 9/15/2003 at 3:31:00 AM
just picked up a miyata 'one hundred'. looks all original. sanshin hubs, araya rims, suntour ar derailleurs, 'chromo triple butted tubes', very clean, except a few scratches. it's blue with silver decals.

what can you tell me about this bike? i paid $10 and looks like it needs new cables and bar tape.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Miyata 'One Hundred' posted by Tom on 9/15/2003 at 1:04:20 PM
Based on the colour scheme and your components, this matches the 1986 model, though it could be a 1985 (I don't have the catalog for that year). In 1984 this model used a hi-tensile steel frame and in 1986 it used Shimano derailleurs, so it is neither of those.

In 1986, Miyata had 5 series of bikes. The model 100 was in the bottom end All Round Sports Series. It was the second out of four models, in that series. Price would have been about $250 US.

The fact that it is low end Miyata does not mean that it is not a good bike. Miyayta is my favourite of all the Japanese manufacturers. Their bicyles combine excellent design, performance and value at all market levels. I think you will find it to be a very nice ride.

Miyata is one of Japan's oldest bicycle manufacturer's going back to 1890. Unlike other manufacrturer's, Miyata produced their own tubing. This was part of Miyata's stringent quality control philosophy. They believed that only by having their own tube division, could they obtain the optimum tubes for their designs. Miyata was also the first Japanese manufacturer to sponsor a European based pro team. Such was Miyata's commitment to providing the best bicycle possible.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Miyata 'One Hundred' posted by TItlist on 9/15/2003 at 2:13:39 PM
Speaking of a 'one hundred'

I've had an idea for awhile, don't need answers right away. In fact, like some net mailing lists have had polls, cool.

This site is getting plenty of action, but it would be neat to rate the top 10 or however many, Japanese bicycle makers.

I was going thru my inventory yesterday, didn't note before Sukae, that many Suntour products read Maeda a long with them too on the brand, though I may have been familiar with this. Shimano cogs made in Singapore. DNP, that nice derailleur I have is Taiwanese.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Miyata 'One Hundred' posted by Keith on 9/15/2003 at 4:04:36 PM
My wife has a Miyata Pro and the workmanship and attention to detail is top notch. It came equiped with a Dura Ace/600 mix.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Miyata 'One Hundred' posted by Mark C. on 9/15/2003 at 4:32:25 PM
I have a Miyata Sport I picked up originally for parts since it had steel rims and alot of rust marks and pits. But I have since decided to keep it whole for awhile because even though I could only do a couple of loops around the driveway without taking too many saftey risks, I could tell it was a decent bike. It just has a nice feel to it equal to my Schwinn and Bridgestone bikes. I fact I took the steel rims off to put on another bike and was suprised to find beneath the rust that they were Araya rims. It is a nice bike for being a low end model. I plan to find it some alloy rims and repaint it rather than part it out. I have an active eye out for a 310 or pro model. I would rate Miyatas very high in the Japanese bike heiarchy.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Miyata 'One Hundred' posted by Chris on 9/15/2003 at 8:02:22 PM
As a teen, I had a Miyata 210.
I threw that bike away after riding it silly, and it was trash picked. 14 years later I picked it up from another kerb covered in dust. It was my bike. I had painted my nickname on the bike and there it was.
I then loaned it and the fellow had it stolen. I found another one this one mint and I have it still.
You can tell by looking at these but the ride is where it really proves it's worth.

MISC:   schwinn tire... posted by: julie on 9/15/2003 at 3:31:17 AM
uh, apparently I didn't spell check. To my just posted message...that is a wheel, not a whell and I am having trouble finding, not dinding, the right tire....thanks-julie

MISC:   help with tire sizing-Schwinn posted by: julie on 9/15/2003 at 3:24:59 AM
Help. I have a whell that I am having trouble dinding a tire to fit. It is a Schwinn rim that says 26" 11.33 on the rim. That is all it says. I have a standard 26X1.75 size tire on it now (too big, it pops off the rim in a small area plus the tire won't stay inflated....wonder why!?)
Can anyone tell me what size tire to put on a Schwinn rim that is 26" 11.33? Thanks-julie

   RE:MISC:   help with tire sizing-Schwinn posted by JONathan on 9/15/2003 at 4:45:08 AM
Tire loses pressure? The tube has a leak (include stem valve) or the tire is not seated on the rim. The tube needs the tire to hold it in place, otherwise, the tube keeps expanding...which reduces the pressure. The end result is the tube ruptures like an overinflated balloon.
The tube may have been pinched while the tire was fitted to the rim.
Schwinn "26 11.33"? I have no idea what the "11.33" means. Obviously it meant something to whoever made it. The "26" I presume is the wheel size. I have ruined perfectly good 26x1 3/8 inch tires trying to pry them onto a Schwinn S-6 rim. You may have an S-6 rim if the bike is
not a balloon tire (S-2) rim. The fact that the 1.75 is too big, makes me think you have the S-6 rim. Somewhere near the hole in the rim for the tube stem there is a designation stamped into the surface. If you see "S-6", you need to get a tire that fits that unique size. I believe a "EA/1" (English roadster) will work, too.
This is for vintage Schwinns. The other option is to take the wheel to a local bike shop and ask for a tire..you may need a new tube. Looking at $15. This would be for; tire, tube and rubber band that fits over the spoke holes inside the rim to keep the spokes from puncturing the tube.
If it is an "S-6" rim, after you get one bead over the rim, place the tube inside and inflate a little. Just enough to keep the tube back away from the rim. Fit the other bead over the rim. Put a tad more air in the tire.
Make sure the tire is evenly seated all the way around on both sides. Pump it some more. The tire has a maximum inflation stamped on the sidewall. You would do yourself a favor if you get a couple of little tire irons...do not use a screw driver to wedge the bead over the rim! Most hardware stores have a bike section with the tire irons. I've had to file the burrs off some that were cheap.
The plastic ones are good...and light, but for a couple bucks you can get a good one. I have two, but often only need one on the low-pressure tires.
What is the approximate date of the bike? 3-speed? 1-speed?
Model? The last one I worked up was a "breeze" 1-speed. Real nice bike, but nobody wants to spin it!
Good luck, I hope this helps you out. What you are doing is not trivial, so don't get frustrated if it isn't perfect the first time. Just look for that "s-6" stamp.

   RE:MISC:   help with tire sizing-Schwinn posted by Rob on 9/15/2003 at 6:38:10 AM
Nicely explained, JONathan...I've occasionally had old tires that even though they were the right size, simply wouldn't properly "clinch" the inside of the rim...I've assumed the tire bead is overly worn.

Another little tip about flats is when taking off the tire and tube always keep them in the same relative position to the wheel so the cause of the flat can be more easily verified, which always should be done...tiny pieces of glass can be almost invisible...once on an MTB tire I needed a 10X loupe to find the tiny piece of glass that periodically poked through...

   RE:RE:MISC:   help with tire sizing-Schwinn posted by JONathan on 9/15/2003 at 7:32:22 AM
Thanks, Rob. Good tip for flat locating. We have a lot of "goat head" thorns that often break off a tip inside the tire. A tiny swatch of polyester fabric or a "grabber" dust cloth works well to pick up any sharp debris that sticks through the inside. I got tired of cutting my finger swiping inside the tire..besides, it might be a rattlesnake fang!

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   help with tire sizing-Schwinn posted by Dave on 9/15/2003 at 1:26:10 PM
Yes , Jonathan , I found out about those thorns on a trip to Southern Utah several years ago . The best fix was a good brand of tire like Specialized , Continental or Michelin and try not to ride too close to the edge of the road.

   RE:MISC:   help with tire sizing-Schwinn posted by Ron on 9/16/2003 at 1:32:44 AM
If you have a Schwinn, and it is not a mountain bike, it is probably a Schwinn size tire. It could be a S-6 or S-7. S-6 is 26x1 3/8", S-7 is 26x1 3/4". These are not interchangable with the equivalent decimal size, i.e. 1.75 is not the same as 1 3/4. If you still have the old tire, it may have the tire size printed on the sidewall, but take the rim to a bike shop to be sure. Look for a shop that has sold Schwinn for a number of years.

MISC:   free schwinn and other brand 10 speeds. posted by: Gary Main on 9/15/2003 at 2:58:38 AM
someone come to big rapids michigan with a truck asap.
or i cut em up i dont care.

   RE:MISC:   free schwinn and other brand 10 speeds. posted by Kevin K on 9/15/2003 at 5:26:47 AM
Hi Gary. Check your emails. I'm interested in the bikes. Kevin

MISC:   Baby Powder for Flats posted by: Titlist on 9/14/2003 at 7:43:34 PM
some manuals on bicycle repair, suggest, for flat tyres, in replacing the tubes, to roll it around in baby powder or talcum powder, make it easier ... note web is full of references, one

".... I carry my spare tube in a sealable plastic bag with baby powder or tire talc. " - http://www.msnewengland.org/bike/repair.asp

well suffice it to say, I've had plenty of flats, and new to me, a bag with the powder for the tubes, but that will make it so that pesky bottle doesn't get lost again at a crucial time.

Having spare wheels, I've noted, I pull out a tube out of an old tire, it is usually pretty trusty maybe from being used, while, so often, new tubes go by the wayside.

Do not know if others have encountered this before.

   RE:MISC:   Baby Powder for Flats posted by Chris on 9/14/2003 at 8:00:50 PM
The babies get the baby powder in their lungs and that ain't good.

Folks today don't use tire talc any more but perhaps they should.
Why exactly has this practice kinda faded out?
I have cans of tire talc in the collection!
I would think the only reason for it's use is so the tube does not get all sticky-ied up with the tire.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Garage Collectibles posted by Titlist on 9/15/2003 at 4:06:52 AM

Collection of Cans with Tire Talc, that sounds way cool; like the rear light, you referred to in the other thread.

Cool stuff, for the garage or where ever in a way, a Phillips framed ad, was about the neatest I've seen.

But on this topic, I'll leave economics out, but what I may need eventually, is a reflector, this is 3 Spd stuff, sorry all. I need a rear reflector, one person, called it as like a Cathedral shape, and it was using some rock, with "ite" at the end. I've also, seen another reflector, might fit, they actually, fan out a bit on the top. Both are red.

   RE:MISC:   Baby Powder for Flats posted by Eric Amlie on 9/15/2003 at 6:03:47 PM
I think the talcom(sp?) powder may act as a preservative for the rubber. I remember years ago a friend would dust his rubber skin diving equipment with talc before storing it for the winter. I never bothered to ask why though.

AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Super Course Tires posted by: Tom on 9/14/2003 at 2:19:46 PM
Our local thrift shop has a 1972 Ralegh Super Course for $20 CDN (approx. $15.00 US). What impressed me about the bike was it's excellent and original condition. It was obvious the bicycle had very few miles on it. The Brooks B15, leather saddle is still very stiff, with only a few surfaces scuffs. The few scratches in the paint were very small. Even the brake pads were in excellent condition. The only thing that has suffered any significant amount is the Reynolds 531 decal. All the major components appear original. From what I can tell even the handlebar tape, cables and housing and brake pads are original. The only question is the tires, which are IRC. Now, I realize that during this period, it was not uncommon to run into shortages and to have to use alternate sources. However, I do not recall this brand being OEM on Raleighs. Can anybody confirm if this brand of tire was original equipment during this era?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Super Course Tires posted by Rob on 9/14/2003 at 7:28:17 PM
Wow...at that price, I wouldn't hestitate for even a nanosecond...You did buy it????...I'm not sure what tires would have been original in 1972, but likely it was Hutchinson, a French tire company...but you never know, shortages could have led to something else. What color is it? Rims...? I've heard before on this site that the tubing decals were often damaged by repair stand clamps...

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Super Course Tires posted by Tom on 9/15/2003 at 1:02:29 AM
It is one of the coffee coloured SCs, with the cursive Raleigh logo and the Carlton decal at the base of the seat tube. Steel, cottered, Stonglight cranks; Simplex Prestige derailleurs; Normandy, quick release hubs, Weinmann brakes & alloy, clincher rims; Brooks B15 saddle; GB bar & stem; plastic, coffee coloured, handlebar tape; ribbed, cable housing. It's 23-1/2" frame.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Raleigh Super Course Tires posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/15/2003 at 2:45:27 AM
In 1973, the specs called for Hutchinson Gum Walls. IRC actually supplied Raleigh as stock starting c. 1977 even with top end machines like the Competition GS.

And you DID buy this I hope!!

P.C. Kohler

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Super Course Tires posted by Tom on 9/15/2003 at 1:14:52 PM
Gentlemen, thank-you for your input. The 1972 catalog on Retro Raleighs did not reference the tire brand. Still, having everything but the tires as original is pretty darned good! By the way, I forgot to mention that is has the original, white, Carlton logo, brake hoods.

This week I am heavily involved with preparations for our local race, but I should get around to the bike the following week. It's in such good condition, that it shouldn't take long to complete any mechanicals and a thorough clean-up. Hopefully, I will have some pics available in a couple weeks. Regretably, I don't have sufficient room to keep the bike and it will probably go up for sale.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Super Course Tires posted by Dave on 9/15/2003 at 1:32:17 PM
Grab it!!What a sweet find but I wouldn't trust riding 31 year old tires.I have two bikes with those white Carlton brake lever covers they are cool looking too.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Super Course Tires posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/15/2003 at 3:36:26 PM
No... don't. I was so chuffed that my 1951 Raleigh Clubman still had her original Dunlop roadracing tyres... until I got a flat and found the darned thing had perished to the rim... I simply couldn't get it off. So I had to ride her home on a dead flat... 12 miles! At least by being fused, it protected the rim. So much for "collecting" old tyres!

P.C. Kohler

AGE / VALUE:   ebay can be very interesting (Motobecane Nomade) posted by: Gralyn on 9/14/2003 at 2:05:20 PM
Ebay can be interesting some times. I like browsing through - looking at vintage bikes up for auction - occasionally buying one, buying parts, etc. - and I've even sold a few bikes. It's always interesting how some of the bidding goes for various old bikes.

Currently, there this Motobecane Nomade - converted to fixed gear - that is up to about $160 - with 7 bids. Heck, I have an original Nomade that I had tried to sell locally for about $30. I got no takers - but actually, I'm glad. I think I will just hang onto mine. Even with a fixed-gear conversion - I would never guess on of these bikes would get that kind of bid.
....of course, sometimes the bidding goes the other way.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   ebay can be very interesting (Motobecane Nomade) posted by gary m on 9/15/2003 at 2:50:47 AM
the problme is that its YOUR bike, which is worthless compared to their soild gold one. i dont get it either. i once sold a 48 Schwinn Majestic ladies in nice condition for $25 on there and 6 lines below it was the exact same chaingaurd in bent rusty shape selling for $65. we currently have a lo mileage motorcycle on there in good shape at 500. there was one on there yesterday with a bad motor that was bid to 2000. you tell me. i list a part with a 15 buy it now. it sells for 26 at end of auction. too many people take ebay as the absolute last word in items value, when it actuality it is more or less the result of several bullheaded dummies fighting over a common toy. i heard of a standard dime store Typhoon bringing 375 on there and above and below it were similar bikes in similar condition for 20-50. heck 3 weeks ago i tossed a joke bid on a classic Mercedes Benz car with no rust from california..
I won it. 100$
looks nice out front too. is a great game if you dont weaken... enjoy Gary

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   ebay can be very interesting (Motobecane Nomade) posted by John S on 9/15/2003 at 2:51:47 AM
I love this old road bike hobby, but trying to re-sell anything but the top-end bikes as refurbished originals seems very difficult unless you essentially give them away.

I have enjoyed converting mid to upperline old roadies into single speeds for the past few years. I must have done 25-30 by now. They sell in a nano-second; Sometimes people try to bid up the price just to get to the head of the buyer's line. I resist that, but this kind of response demonstrates the peculiar demand for these.

I once tried to sell a nice old, original Raleigh SuperCourse for $80. No takers. Converted to a single, sold for $120 in a day. (Note: I've noticed in this great discourse site some reverance for SC's, so I hope my act doesn't offend).

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   ebay can be very interesting (Motobecane Nomade) posted by JONathan on 9/15/2003 at 3:44:37 AM
This may be off topic, but I'll throw it out. I think it is the lack of widespread awareness of the superb nature of the vintage rides.
There was a huge turn out in San Francisco for the bike race, today. The notion of riding bikes and all that is cool has come back! You watch the racers jar and shake riding the 15# bikes and it would not take long for the average person to see that a vintage lightweight design is a more intelligent choice for recreational riding. I mean those racers, women and men, exert tremendous effort in the races.
I've been up the Taylor St. and Fillmore St. (20% grade?) on a MTB and it was very hard...and I thought I was in shape. They did it 10 times!
So a lot of spectators had bikes. It's easy to bungee them in stacks on the "bikes only" train cars and get right to the thick of it. This spectacular North American bicycling event may spawn a big surge in biking. I see a lot more riders, here in the SF Bay Area, and people I meet seem to know about bikes. This is good for us who have saved countless vintage mounts from hitting the landfills. The knowledge or "secret" will emerge and they'll get the respect, IMHO, of course.
Happy rides...hang on to those steel horses, they gonna catch.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   ebay can be very interesting (Motobecane Nomade) posted by Titlist on 9/15/2003 at 2:00:49 PM
I see all kinds of things, bikes and related to on Ebay. When I lived in the "sticks", the "boondocks", rural areas, I wasn't into cycling like I am now and that's too bad, for wide open roads, mountain roads, all year nice weather, the state of New Mexico would be difficult to beat. Still, a lot of it is so sparsely populated. In this way, Ebay can cater to folks in out of the way places, often without access to some items. Likewise, I can use bikes at a bargain and doubt if it happens frequently, but there are probably times, when someone might really get a lot of good use out of a bargain bike.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   ebay can be very interesting (Motobecane Nomade) posted by Titlist on 9/15/2003 at 2:03:00 PM
there exists a tool for measuring hill grades. often I estimate, would be nice to get the exact steepness.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   ebay can be very interesting (Motobecane Nomade) posted by Dave on 9/15/2003 at 2:03:21 PM
I gave up on Ebay for bicycle purchases, out of 3 only one bike truly fit me. The first one was a Schwinn Continental that I bought for $75 it was fitted with a cotterless crank conversion kit and had way more rust on it then the seller let on, and the last was a $75 MTB that was packed very poorly ,(no foam , carboard or nothing inside the box) so the gripshifters were busted and they measured it from center of bb to the top of a 3" seattube extension and the bike was really a 18". However for bike parts Ebay is great.I guess never go with a $75 winning bid!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Bargain Bikess posted by Titlist on 9/15/2003 at 2:35:33 PM
Actually, with "bargain bikes", let me say, I am thinking of thrift stores and the way that is written, one can not tell this that clearly. Say, at the Salvation Army, I find something, can cannibalize or whatever, but someone might really need it. Maybe using the local sellers, is a good option with Ebay; cause some don't like the hassle of sending things and with bicycles, one saves so much on postage.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   ebay can be very interesting (Motobecane Nomade) posted by Mark C. on 9/15/2003 at 4:56:27 PM
I enjoy ebay not only for finding more parts but also a good reference tool. I do try to keep in mind the shipping cost as some people will ship for very resonable prices and others charge double the amount of the winning bid. I find it works well to try and search by region and many times I find items close enough to go pick up and save some money. Another ebay tip is to check the menu for "view sellers other auctions" (or something like that) sometimes good related items that didn't come up in the search are also being offered.

A related (distantly mind you)observation from here in the Philadelphia area. One of the prime sources for VLW where I had good success is drying up. The local Goodwill stores no longer accept bicycles hence there will be more good bikes taken to the trash pile. Is this happening anywhere else?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   ebay can be very interesting (Motobecane Nomade) posted by Gralyn on 9/15/2003 at 5:16:33 PM
I think e-bay is an excellent source for VLW's. The thing is - you have to really know exactly what you want - and what you're looking at on-line. The pictures tell a lot - you have to really look closely at them.

Also, if there is something in particular you are looking for....and you find it....you have to decide what you are willing to pay....including shipping! Sometimes I am able to find something locally....and if that's the case - I can factor out the shipping costs.

You do have to be careful, though....take for example, the description of the condition of what you are buying. You can get the same description for 2 different bikes....on is rusted and all scratched-up, half the paint gone....and the other has only a couple minor scratches under the bottom bracket. You just have to be careful.

Then, there's selling! ...which can be a pain! I sold a couple frames that were way too big for me. For one of them - I had no problems.....for the other....it's been over a month and the buyer hasn't got it yet! To top that off...my wife lost the receipt for ths shipping and insurance. If it doesn't show up pretty soon - I will be out of the money!

But, take for example, what started this post: The Motobecane Nomade (bottom-of-the-line bike for Motobecane) - I could easily think I could convert mine to fixed gear - and maybe I could get that for it? Probably not....it could easily go for $10.....or it could go for $210.....you just never know!

MISC:   Collegiate by Schwinn posted by: DannyJoe on 9/14/2003 at 3:04:41 AM
This one was at an Estate sale a 1979 Collegiate 3, I went just to check it out and if I could pick it up on a low bid take it home. I'm more of a drop-bar Schwinn collector but when I spotted this Collegiate 3 in it's like new condition, a sure 9 on a 10 scale, I was taking it home. It has to be one of the finest '79 Collegiate 3's in existance, as nice as the day it left the dealer's floor.

I had hoped to pick up the Collegiate 3 before my stopping bid of $50(US), I didn't so I extended my range and got it for $55(US). Now I'm wondering, sure it's the nicest conditioned bike in my '70'S Schwinn collection, but I paid 5 time's as much for it than my almost as nice '73 Super Sport. If I hadn't won the bidding and some bloke went off with it for $50 would I have been left wondering if I had just blown a chance at the finest example of that model? For $55 dollar's I could have rounded up a dozen Varsity's! Do I even want to be seen riding a Collegiate? I've got alot of soul spinning to do.

   RE:MISC:   Collegiate by Schwinn posted by Don on 9/14/2003 at 4:24:36 AM
I found a Suburban 3 at the local thrift for $9.95. It was a metallic green beauty & I bought it mainly because I had never seen a one with a Sturmey Archer 3 before, they all seemed to have the 5 speed derailler system. I added it to my commuter fleet for a while but eventually gave it to one of my many grandchildren. We fixed it up with chrome drop bars & not only can he outrun his neighborhood pals on their mountain bikes, the old Schwinn is so sturdy, he hasn't been able to break it! Don

   RE:RE:MISC:   Collegiate by Schwinn posted by JONathan on 9/14/2003 at 5:44:56 AM
One "collegiate" 5-speed was at a thrift store for $45. It was pretty rough around the edges, but the basic frame was clean. It sold after a few weeks sittin in the elements near the dumpster with a bevy of junk bikes. I assume it sold...maybe for less, I don't know. It had 26 inch wheels!
Those "suburbans" are steel behemoths. I paid $80 for a his and her pair of '77's. They are NOS looking. The positron FFS and rear positron derailer are cool. Only the "his" has the FFS. I think the whole setup weighs over 50#'s. Rack, fenders, generator and chrome lights with a Schwinn bell that weighs as much as some alloy bars. The bars are wide tourers that weigh as much as some bikes. The brakes are kind of wimpy, IMHO. The 27x1.1/4 in. heavy qauge chromed steel wheels are hard to stop with those sp brakes spinning alone on the bike stand.
I rode my battle trimmed varsity '77 and it handled like a sports car compared to a 66 Electra!
The term "boat" comes to mind. The "collegiate" had stubby fenders, while my "subs" have big ol painted steel fulls. Huge reflector on the rear tip. I dig the suburban. It says, like; "Get outa my way" on the road. Fotr a huge ride, it handles better than I thought. The hollow steel fork blades improve the handling over the varsity forged steel blades. I have yet to get into servicing the positron FFS...I think if it ain't broke, I won't mess with it. The rear freewheel is strange, too.
The "hers" is a bit intimdating to someone who is used to a Raleigh "sports" and Moto "nobly", so the lady's frame sits in a shed. I keep the big boy ready to roll with it's cape (old pup tent) ready to fling off, spiders and all, for a quick haul down the path.
Great bikes.
Glad you got the "collie", you can have some fun.

   RE:MISC:   Collegiate by Schwinn posted by gary m on 9/15/2003 at 2:55:49 AM
i put an immaculate Collegiate 3 on ebay, was the nicest used bike i ever saw, not a mark in it. Blue ladies with a nice rack, could have been right off the line. never got a bid on a 20$ opener. i threw it out back and it rotted. dumped it at a sale for $5. go figure. how many drop bar schwinns you want? come to big rapids michigan and bring a truck.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Collegiate by Schwinn posted by Dave on 9/15/2003 at 2:11:25 PM
I had a chocolate brown 5-speed, mint condition, I bought for $50. It had the matching fender for rain conditions. I used it as a work commuter for a few months. However the one day that I was caught in a sudden rain shower the brakes basically failed,(steel rims) and I almost ended up in the center of a extremely busy street. I donated the bike to charity.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Collegiate by Schwinn posted by DannyJoe on 9/15/2003 at 10:31:10 PM
I know at least one guy who might give me $50 for my Collegiate, the guy I outbid. I've had a couple of days to think about my purchase, and "what was I thinking" has filtered in a couple of time's. I passed on two seperate Suburban's over the last year the owner's wanted $60 for one the other $30, both very nice, the style was not me! Could I be going thru a "Change of life", fast-n-edgy to burmudas with a wedgey.

AGE / VALUE:   Thanx for the info posted by: Amiee on 9/13/2003 at 8:56:15 PM
Jonathan-As I said the frame is in great condition and I believe the fork is as well.It's a one speed coaster brake.Being that it's a girls bike it's a bit smaller-but I'm not very big so it fits just fine-I haven't however,had a chance to ride it being that it has bad tires,but my boyfriend,who's extremely into bikes of all kinds has cleaned everything up and polished it for me-I'm anxious asI have not seen it yet!He's got a beautiful low rider from the East Coast-all chrome as well as a tall bike which he welded himself.I used to have an old Huffy Good Vibrations-don't know what year it was from,Seafoam green,one speed coaster brakes as well-but unfortunately someone ripped it off about 3 weeks ago.Anyway-thanx for the info.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Thanx for the info posted by JONathan on 9/13/2003 at 10:18:28 PM
Sorry about the GV. For about $20-$30 US, you can get going with the Western Flyer.
Replace the tubes, too and the spoke band that fits inside the rim to protect the tube. I got Sheng Chen 26X2.25 tires for $10 ea.
Tubes are $3-$4. Rubber spoke guards are $1. That's about $30 after taxes. Pretty good ride for $56 and a lot of TLC. Low maintenance, smooth riding; just keep inflation proper and oil the chain once in a while. I rebuilt a Schwinn "breeze" one-speed coaster brake bicycle which was a bit more with new handle grips and pedals.
Sure rides great, but nobody wants to take it out. Smaller frame is better than one that's too big. Happy rides,

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Thanx for the info posted by JONathan on 9/13/2003 at 10:23:23 PM
Oh, I am assuming the tires are balloon. The S-2 and 26x1 3/8 in. tires will be about the same. I think the whitewalls are only in the balloon tires.
Some balloon tires are very pricey, so I would look for the reasonable priced Kendas or Sheng Chens.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Thanx for the info posted by JONathan on 9/15/2003 at 4:53:19 AM
I mean; "about the same" price! The S-2 is a balloon tire rim for Schwinns.

AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental posted by: P Lavery on 9/13/2003 at 3:54:00 PM
It looks like the old beloved (by me at least) and much
maligned Schwinn Continental is starting to appreciate in
value. There's one on ebay right now (item#3626779944)
with a starting bid of $129 !
It's even the same color as my 1975 . I've debated over the
years whether to part with my old steed or not or even
try to modernize it but I've kept it all original except for KKT pedals and a newer Schwinn seat. The frame geometry is still more comfortable to ride than my Trek 1000 or the old Gitane Gypsy that I use for commuting.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Those big wing-nuts posted by: Gralyn on 9/13/2003 at 2:29:08 PM
I've seen bikes with those big wing nuts on the front and rear wheels in old catalog pictures. I guess they were like a primitive form of QR. I even have on old AMF that has those on the front and rear....but they are Shimano. I thought they might look cool on my old Hercules fixed-gear bike. But even to put the Shimano's on it...I would have to change out the axles...because the thread diameter is too small for most standard axles.

Are those still available anywhere? One's that would fit an old English bike? I think it would look really cool!

     Those big wing-nuts posted by John E on 9/13/2003 at 3:03:55 PM
Wingnuts were indeed common before QR was popular, and they continued to be used on low-end bikes into the 1960s and early 1970s. They typically fit standard older European solid axles; your Shimano axles may indeed use different diameters (rears are almost always thicker than fronts) or thread pitch.

I have occasionally seen wingnuts on eBay, and Sheldon Brown or Loose Screws may have some to sell, as well.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Those big wing-nuts posted by Warren on 9/13/2003 at 6:45:47 PM
They are very much trial and error...some english wing nuts won't fit some english axles and I'm not mistaking fronts for rears. I have an assortment of two dozen. I like them on the front but I prefer to use properly torqued (track) nuts on the rear... especially on a fixed gear where you don't want the wheel to slip in the drops, drop your chain, lock up and ruin your day.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Those big wing-nuts posted by Chris on 9/13/2003 at 9:24:11 PM
Do not use wing nuts on a frame that has chrome dropouts. I had my wheel shift in the dropouts in my 1954 Raleigh Record Ace. I was using the Sturmey- Archer wing nut and it shifted and gave me a scare.
I was advised by a friend not to use wingnuts in a bike with chrome rear ends.

So I use the wingnuts in the 1948 Raleigh Record Ace instead.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Those big wing-nuts posted by Don on 9/14/2003 at 4:33:37 AM
A co-worker jsut gave me a Columbia 3 wheel, 3 speed that has some truly giant wing nuts holding the rear wheels onto their solid axle which is chain driven by a SA unit. The bike is surprisingly light, breaks down for storeage, has a drum brake on the front wheel & a coaster brake in the Sturmey 3 speed. When I get some new alloy rim wheels builtup, it will make a great grocery getter. Don

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Those big wing-nuts posted by Dave on 9/15/2003 at 2:40:16 PM
My Hobbs has wingnuts although the rear wheel was the only original wheel left so I bought a front hub with them. This bike has chromed dropouts but was used for racing apparently without any trouble. I do have one set of them for a French hub for the cost of postage I could part with them.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Those big wing-nuts posted by Titlist on 9/15/2003 at 2:57:03 PM
Don't believe my 'Kent of Trashcan' ever used the huge wingnuts.

WANTED:   '73 World Voyageur 21" frame posted by: brent on 9/12/2003 at 11:40:44 PM
Has anyone got one of these frames hanging in their garage? I'm hoping to go completely car free and whittling down the collection to two bikes. I've got a 23inch frame built up right now, but the frame is just a bit too high for me. I love the ride and the utility of it, I've got it set up as a fixed gear with 700x38 tires and full fenders and racks. Anyone out there can help me out?

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by: Tony on 9/12/2003 at 3:46:46 PM
I'm not sure this bike counts as a vintage lightweight, but i was reading some stuff off of the discussion board and thought what the heck.
I can't find much online to help me out on this frame type- i've read that it's low end peugeot, early 80's. i love commuting on its comfy steel frame. and it's pretty, although i think lugged frames are more classy looking.
one question i had was with respect to the frame length. next to other road bikes, it's quite a bit longer from end to end. so it's a slower turner, i guess. does this longer style make it a touring bike?
Where can i find more info and advice on this kind of bike (other than this marvelous site?)
I've grown quite fond of the bike, even though i've frankenbiked it quite a bit (shimano this, suntour that, etc.) I plan to keep riding it as long as possible. I do my own repairs, but i really want to know if this frame is worth going for pricier parts or not.
Thanks a lot- you guys really have the best advice!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by Titlist on 9/12/2003 at 4:22:35 PM

Well, I heartily agree, it looks like a beautiful bike, in this case, Mixte frame. Gives one ideas; a tiny bit to work from. Why is it when something is mentioned here, often it is on Ebay.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by Titlist on 9/12/2003 at 4:24:08 PM
Forgive me for being premature, does it appear anything like this frame?

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by luke on 9/12/2003 at 5:01:00 PM
i have two 1980,s 103 carbon peugeot,s and one is quite a bit longer but it is a factory touring bike complete with
fenders and such.the other is a blue racer that i love
riding everywhere.i ordered a peugeot catalog book from
chuck schmidt at www.velo-retro.this thing is 396 pages
of company history on old original ads from the 60,s through the 1980,s.at 45 bucks it will be a real gem to own and it has everything your looking for.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by JONathan on 9/12/2003 at 5:01:20 PM
Nice selection of ride, there. I have one that is an '80's "carbolite 103"
UO-8. The frame is welded (no lugs) which I think looks sleeker. Also, a little more flex as there is not the support of lugs.
The lugged frames are, IMHO, best used with butted tubes. The bike is completely black. If you fit up with good touring tires, like Continentals (good luck finding) and if you have alloy wheels and cotterless cranks the ride is superb.
Make sure you have rims that can handle the high pressure tires. I blew a couple tires off before I figured that one out. The older clinchers are only good for lower pressure tires.
Don't know how you ride, but I'm a masher (higher gear, low spinning) so the cottered cranks are OK, but cotterless are best for higher revs and especially hill terrain. Most of my riding is in close quarters during the week, so I avoid toe-clips.
I have a pair that screws on easy enough for flat out hammering or hill climbs. I love the handling of this bike in close...real stable, without being clunky.
Summed up, in my top three of bikes that I have to ride. My version has the integral derailer hanger which I have set up with a SunTour "cyclone". Really great...right now...shifts.
Weinmann "vainqueur" 999 cp brakes are great brakes, too.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by Keith on 9/12/2003 at 5:56:40 PM
Carbolite is low end plain carbon steel. The carbolite frames are particularly soft (hence comfortable) due to the narrower tubing. I would not sink money into this frame or go to the trouble of significant upgrades. The quality is marginal and you're stuck not only with French threads but a very odd-sized seatpost. I've given two complete carbolite Peugeots away, and threw out one frame. The frame I threw out had been damaged, and the tubing bent more easily that any other bicycle frame I've ever encountered. BTW the two complete bikes came equiped with low end Huret.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by Tom on 9/12/2003 at 7:53:00 PM
I concur with Keith regarding upgrading, though I haven't seen the failures he has described. I would put the money into a better frame and transfer the old parts, or just ride the bicycle the way it is, until it dies. It's not a poor quality frame, just a low end frame.

Carbolite 103, is just plain, old, carbon steel, as Keith states. Peugeot took the AISI 1030 designation and dropped the "0" so that they would have a fancy three digit designation, reminiscent of Reynolds 531. Another classic marketing ploy.

      Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by John E on 9/12/2003 at 9:32:18 PM
I concur, as well, having owned three early 1970s UO-8s and an early 1980s Carbolite 103. Carbolite Peugeots have Swiss-threaded BBs, for which replacement fixed cups can be tough to find, plus extremely non-standard seatpost diameters. The original lugged UO-8 is a more resilient, responsive frame than a Carbo.

   RE:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by JONathan on 9/13/2003 at 12:21:17 AM
Hey, that is good to know about the Swiss threads. Thanks for that heads up.
I have not removed the fixed cup on the carbolite frame. Maybe I'm an old cowhand, likin the broomtail over the jumpers, but I like the ride on the welded frame. I can't say why. The seat-stays jam up right into the seat-tube, like old school mTB's.
I have the complete line-up. UO-8 with lugs and "tube special allege" and UE-8, same. UO-18 (mixte) lugged; UE-18 lugged; and UO-18 carbolite welded frame. In the mixte, I notice a big difference, or maybe just noticeable difference from the carbolite frame.
I concur that the UO-8 with lugged frame is a bit smoother riding, but I can accelerate a bit quicker on my welded UO-8. Just a individual thing, not making a blanket statement.
As for the frames. The tubes are tough, not high in strength.
Steel is steel. The heat treatment makes the tubes stronger at the expense of toughness, IMHO. This may explain why they are comfortable to ride, too, IMHO.
I wish someone had given me my UO-**'s, I paid more than most would fork out, but they are a unique bit of history and the ride is fun as opposed to my Team Fuji. Well, the Team is cool, but one thing it is not is comfortable.
My Uo-8 (carbo) is about 25#, which is right about perfect for a 210# rider, just about 10% of my weight!
Cheers, JONathan

   RE:RE:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by andym on 9/13/2003 at 12:59:07 AM
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe those "carbolite" frames are internally lugged and brazed,not welded.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by Tom on 9/13/2003 at 3:23:16 AM
Andy is correct in stating that these frames are brazed, instead of welded. I always assumed they were internally lugged like the Masi Volumetrica, however I've seen conflicting documentation. I have a 1983 Peugeot catalogue that states "lugless", while the ads from the period say "internally brazed". Road tests vary between "internal lugs" and "lugless". In these cases I've always assumed that "lugless" references were in deference to an uneducated customer who would not appreciate internal lugs, because he couldn't see them.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by Fred A on 9/13/2003 at 3:42:13 AM
I have a white 1980's Carbolite 103 Peugeot 12 speed with cotterless cranks, the derailleurs all marked Peugeot and has alloy handlebars & rims. A smooth shifting and riding bike. I call it my "GLUEGEOT" because it looks like all of the tubes have been glued together!

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by Tom on 9/13/2003 at 3:11:10 PM
GLUEGEOT - I love it! Very funny! Seriously, I recall a Peugeot with glued aluminum tubes, similar to the Vitus bonded framesets. I believe the model was the Comet? Too bad you don't own one of those - that really would be a GLUEGEOT! Thxs for posting, this little chuckle has made my day!

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Peugeot Carbolite 103 posted by JONathan on 9/14/2003 at 7:16:19 AM
Aye, that shivers me timbers. Internal lugged? I have to poke inside a "welded" frame for a look. That would explain why the joints are so clean; even TIG has a bead around the connection.
I have a UO-8 frame from the '80's that is hanging up. I will take a look. Pretty clever idea, this internal lugging. Since the lugs are, presumably, harder steel than the tubes, the thermal tightening would be greater than with external lugs.
No external seams for corrosion, either. I found a site: http://home.wanadoo.nl/peugeotshow/
particularly informative, only my German is rusty. Still easier to follow than the Japanese language based sites!
Thanks, JONathan

MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by: Gralyn on 9/12/2003 at 12:16:11 PM
When I have an old set of steel chrome-plated rims - I typically use a chrome polish. When I have the aluminum alloy rims - I use Mother's Aluminum Polish. From what I've experience on these rims - some are shiny...kind of like chrome...and some are more "aluminum-looking" and don't shine. Most of the time - the Mother's gets the shiny ones looking shiny again...and gets the others looking new again. But, my problem is the ones that are seemingly more oxidized. I have a set of Alesa's ...that I just gave up on. Now I have a set of Arayas - and these dont' appear to have a lot of the oxidation and pitting...but a more dingy look....an uneven, dingy look...kind of gives you the impression they were dipped into some chemical that reacted to the aluminum...hard to describe...but I tried some MOthers on them....but it's just not cutting it....

What other means is there - for cleaning these wheels? I would suspect that steel wool would not work. How about a copper wool? Are there any other chemicals or polishes that might work?

   RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by Tom on 9/12/2003 at 12:56:22 PM
My favourite product for cleaning aluminum rims is Brasso polish. Regardless of the age and oxidation of the rim, it has worked well, provided it is not an anodized rim.

On the more potent chemical side, Loctite has an Aluminum Jelly which works well. Though I haven't tried it, another excellent chemical for reported removal of oxidation is ammonia.

Personally, I always use Brasso where possible. While it requires some elbow grease, as opposed to the aluminum jelly, but it's far less hazardous. When working with the jelly or ammonium, be sure to take full safety precautions (ie. heavy long sleeved shirt, goggles/safety glasses, rubber gloves, chemical mask or use in well ventilated area).

However, there is also the possibility that the discolouration is due to foreign substances that inadverently were introduced during manufacturing. If so, the discolouration is within the metal structure itself and cannot be removed.

   RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by Tom M on 9/12/2003 at 2:06:45 PM
I use a product called Never Dul and it is available at Canadian Tire Stores. It is made in New York so it must be available in the US. It is also good for alloy.

   RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by Titlist on 9/12/2003 at 3:00:34 PM
Gralyn wrote: " ..What other means is there - for cleaning these wheels? I would suspect that steel wool would not work. How about a copper wool? Are there any other chemicals or polishes that might work? "

I just wanted to alarm you, as to the types of those pads one uses, cause some, steel, can scratch things. Believe I read this in the restoration archives. You want to polish with something, softer than what the object being polish is. This pertained mainly to Chrome fenders, in this case, maybe one wants to use the brass pads. On tire rims, maybe it is not that important and personally, i have not run into much trouble. Still, just mention this as a word to the wise.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by Dave on 9/12/2003 at 3:55:36 PM
This is one great website, I am in the process of restoring a very old vintage LW and this is just the info I needed. Thanks much!

   RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by sam on 9/12/2003 at 10:21:17 PM
If you don't mind takin the spokes out you can get a polish kit at sears that fits on a shop gringer.Has a cotton polish pad you place on where the grindeing wheel goes.Load with polish compound and you can polish to a mirror finish.be carful the wheel spends fast!---sam

   RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by Jimbo Jones on 9/13/2003 at 10:42:20 AM
I suspect that the rims you are working with were anodized. something you dont want to polish but probably wax. Anodizing appears to goes to different depths and gets uneven when polished.

Anodizing will go away after many years of uv rays and weathering giving an uneven look if a bike has sat in one position for a long time.

I have a vintage set of Arays that polish up like chrome that were not anodized. I also have another set that have a dull appearence. No ammount of polishing the dull set will ever make them as shiney as the other. To me it is a matter of the alloys that these wheels were made of combined with the possibility of being anodizing. To get an even look you may have to sand ridicliously to get past the anodizing.

Personally I have stained a set of aluminum rims by useing silver polish. For that reason I would not use brasso as it says to not use it on aluminum. However I have had positive results with mothers, never dull, and simachrome polish to which in all respects appears to be brasso.

Fine steel wool packed with mothers will do wonders to the right part. Unfortunatley you cant know if it is the right part until you have either "F"ed it up or asked about it. Which leads to the question, why do we subject ourselves to this? I don't know but Im pulling for ya. Whatever you do give us the results.

   RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by Tom on 9/13/2003 at 1:28:54 PM
With all due respect, I am perplexed by the anodizing comments. As a coating, two of anodizing's most desirable traits are it's uniform thickness and UV resistance. This is one of the reasons it's so often found in external, architectural applications, which are constantly exposed to UV rays.

The one thing anodizing has poor resistance to, is chemical corrosion. If you tried to polish an anodized rim, the chemicals in the polishing compound probably attacked the finish and caused the discolouration.

I have two sets of anodized rims that have been hanging in front of a southern exposure, basement window for about ten years. The bottom portion of these rims receive the sunlight, while the top portion is shaded. These rims show no sign of fading. The faded rims may be more the result of weathering, especially you live in an area where the rain is acidic. Another possibility, if they were inexpensive rims, is that the they were organically coated, as opposed to anodized. Organic coatings are far more susceptible to UV deterioration.

The difficulty in polishing non-anodized rims is more a function of age than alloy. The older a rim is, the thicker it's oxide layer will be. It may take a while to polish through the oxide, but it will happen eventually. Any variation in the resulting finish is probably a result from being unable to maintain a uniform polishing process. I recently did a set of rims that were over fifty years old and had never been polished. While there was slight variation from my polishing process, it was not noticable to the owner and he was amazed by the results.

The strongest chemical that I apply to my anodized rims is Varsol, which I use to remove to brake pad deposits. It has not noticeably affected the anodizing. I clean the non-braking surfaces with Armor-All cleaner.

Finally, why would one wax rims? Any extraneous wax on the sidewalls would leads to a disturbing decrease in braking efficiency, though it should wear off relatively quickly.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by Gralyn on 9/13/2003 at 2:24:53 PM
OK.....no...my rims aren't anodized. I have some anodized rims....but I wasn't talking about those.
I think I will try the brasso - and see how that works.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by JONathan on 9/14/2003 at 3:07:04 AM
Well, maybe this is a bit conservative...especially in today's "quicker is better" world, but here it is.
First off, labor intensive methods...like us vintage LW buffs seem to relish, I try the least sophisticated methods and build to more elaborate (and expensive) technology.
I can always find someone to sit and swab a rim with mild (biodegradable) soap for a half hour, if it is not me doing it..."no gloves JON", they call me.
Those plastic pads that I sneak out of the kitchen drawer work great to boost the operation speed.
I have reservations about a coating product that may defeat the beauty of (Al) alloy surfaces that form their own protective oxide coating if exposed to the air.
The anodized surfaces run a risk of abrasion, so I use plain soap and water and lots of back-and-forth,and round-and-round swabbing. A que-tip works well for the spoke holes.
When I'm done, the results are usually very acceptable and I don't have to worry if the cat steps in the wet stuff on the driveway. Just my 2 c's.
Besides, I'm a simple guy.
Cheers, JONathan
BTW, I think Never-Dull is for silver polishing.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by Jimbo Jones on 9/14/2003 at 5:17:02 AM
Yeah well Tom there is only one warning on a can of Brasso.
It says " Do not use on aluminum" ... enough said.
As for anodizing going away from UV rays beleive it. Anyone who has delt with mid 80s BMX bikes is well aware of this fact. Not just the color but the shine goes away. As for waxing , well if you dont the part will end up looking just like it did two weeks afer you polished it. (But don't take my word for it.)I do not wax the braking surface because after all they are a breaking surfaces.
Araya rims have been anodized from about 1977 on. They have a dull appearance that is due to the choice of alloys and I cant do anything about that. Go and pratice your polishing techniques.

   RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by Tom M on 9/14/2003 at 6:52:22 AM
I work in a drug manufacturing plant and all our equipment is stainless steel.We use a white scrub pad called Scotch Brite. They also make a green one like you see in most grocey stores kitchen items. The white one won't scratch the alloy on rims or stainless steel. The green one will. We use the white one on our stainless equipment and has never scratched it. I use the white one on all my bike parts. Even on old crappy looking paint. It will take some of the paint off on some bikes, most pinstriping gets it most. I use it with most any polish for paint. I don't use it on very nice paint. I also use it on alloy parts and it works great. Old rims look like chrome when done. I can use most any liquid polish even chrome polish and it works. I also use it for cleaning my hands with soap and water. It does not hurt the skin. Even when the pad wears out it is still good. My wife uses it to clean the sinks in the house. The pads are about 5 x 8 and I cut them in 3 when using them. I am not sure where you get them but maybe the company has a web site. Cleaning supply companys may have them. If you want before and after pics I can send them.

   RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by Tom on 9/14/2003 at 3:53:19 PM
Jimbo, I can't say I've paid much attention to BMX bikes. However, if you say that their rims fade, I'll take your word for it. In my experience, I have never seen an anodized, lightweight rim fade, due to UV exposure. Currently, I have 10 sets of anodized ATB and lightweight rims, with no signs of fading.

Obviously, there is a major variable in the process, if the process can give such a wide spread in results. I am curious. Have you seen fading on lightweight rims, or just BMX rims? I am asking because, the issue may be with the bright pigments used in BMX rims. I have worked for 22 years as a Quality Assurance Engineer with a major telecommunications firm. During that time, I was involved with accelerated age testing for a product with an anodized housing, that was used in an external application. Our test results confirmed the anodizer's claim for excellent UV resistance. Like lightweight rims, these products used either a clear or dark (in this case, bronze) anodizing. This may be a critical factor.

Regarding Brasso, I have used this product for over 30 years on aluminum alloy parts without any detrimental effect. I checked my current can and it does not have any specific warning against use on aluminum. Maybe they have changed the formula recently? Based on your observation, they have changed the warning! I'll have to check out a new can the next time I'm in the store. In the meantime, do you have any old, expendable parts that you would consider trying it on? I'd be curious as to your experience, particularly if it is a new formula. Who knows, this could be a Coke versus Classic Coke type of issue.

Hopefully you will accept that I am not trying to be argumentative. In Quality Assurance, our goal to eliminate as many sources of variation as possible, so that the customer does not receive any suprises with their product. What I am trying to do, is understand why your experiences vary so much from mine. If we can identify the source of the variation, it can be better controlled or at least we will know what to expect in a given circumstance.

Tom M., thank-you for your tip on the white Scotch-Bright pads. I'll have to give that a try, if I can find them. I see the green pads all the time, but don't recall the white ones. As you state, in my experience, the green product is too abrasive for polishing applications.

   RE:MISC:   Cleaning Aluminum Alloy Rims posted by Ron on 9/15/2003 at 1:13:59 AM
ScotchBrite also has a maroon colored pad that is even harder than the green. I think it would scratch diamonds. We have some at work for cleaning rust off steel for weld prep. Sometimes one finds its way into the lunchroom. Very bad on the wife's Tupperware.