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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

AGE / VALUE:   tube sizes posted by: Steven on 1/26/2004 at 9:32:20 PM
Hi all,
I happened across some 27x1 inch tires for my vintage road bike but have notied that all the tubes I have are sized for 1 & 1/8th or 1 & 1/4 inch.
Is there a 1 inch size tube or can I use the bigger ones?
Thanks for any help.

    tube sizes posted by John E on 1/26/2004 at 10:05:38 PM
For your application, I would prefer tubes labeled 700Cx23, 700Cx25, or 27x1, although 27x1-1/8 or 700Cx28 may work, depending on your tyres and tubes. Larger tubes can complicate installation of low-profile tyres, and may get pinched between the bead and the rim.

AGE / VALUE:   tube sizes posted by: Steven on 1/26/2004 at 9:32:20 PM
Hi all,
I happened across some 27x1 inch tires for my vintage road bike but have notied that all the tubes I have are sized for 1/8th or 1/4 inch.
Is there a 1 inch size tube or can I use the bigger ones?
Thanks for any help.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: tube sizes posted by commutebybike on 1/27/2004 at 5:46:24 PM
Don't use the larger tube on the smaller tire or it will bunch up inside the tire and not inflate properly. Here are the tube/tire cross reference I use. Use matching tube and tire size ranges.
700x19 – 26c / 27x1in.
700x28 – 32c / 27x1 1/8 – 1 1/4 in.
700x35 – 38c / 27x1 3/8 in.

AGE / VALUE:   huffy galaxie posted by: ALAN on 1/26/2004 at 1:49:07 AM
Hi, I would like some information on a huffy galaxie, it's in super nice condition, I would like to know what year it came out and the value. thanks, alan c.

WANTED:   '57 or '58 Lenton Grand Prix colors/decals posted by: Brad Stone on 1/26/2004 at 12:37:53 AM
I have what I think is a '57 or '58 Lenton Grand Prix. However, the frame was repainted before I acquired it. I am looking for information and hopefully, digital pics of the original color schemes and decal details. Any sort of info on this bike would be appreciated.

Brad Stone

   RE:WANTED: '57 or '58 Lenton Grand Prix colors/decals posted by P.C. Kohler on 1/26/2004 at 1:56:15 AM
Well, I'll take a break from literally repainting my newly acquired 1961 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix and offer the following:

1957 Lenton Grand Prix colours:

Super-chromatic Lenton Green with Carmine (red) head, Polychromatic Silver Grey or Black enamel, with white head. Lining. White handlebar tape (vinyl) and plugs, white brake hoods. White mudguards.

As for transfers.. good luck!! These machines simply had the most wild decals ever put on a Raleigh. The 1957-1960 models had a completely different set than the 1961 one. Nick at Lloyd Cycles in the UK can supply only the Reg Harris Road Model torch decal, the small Reynolds frame decal and that's it. I am actually repainting the almost vanished decals on my machine.... by hand! At least they are white. The ones for your machine are multi-coloured and that's putting it mildly!

I will e-mail you a pix of this machine from the 1957 Raleigh dealer's catalogue.

Good luck!

P.C. Kohler

PS: a complete history of the Raleigh Lentons may be found on the Yahoo Group "Roll Britannia" (actually in "Roll Britannia 2) and shortly this will also be featured in the Retro Raleigh site as well.

AGE / VALUE:   reelfishin@netzero.com posted by: Joe on 1/25/2004 at 5:40:15 PM
Does anyone know how to date a Raleigh Sprite 27? I have two of these now and neither have any sign of any date codes or serial numbers. Both have the usual Notingham headbadges, 32/40 spoke Dunlop rims, steel calipers, black ribbed Raleigh grips, Huret Allvit derailleurs, Brooks padded saddles, and Nervar cottered cranks. The older one is Rootbeer brown with rounded top fenders. The newer one is a deep burgundy red with sort of square top fenders, a rather large rear reflector, along with self adjusting brake levers. I've checked all over the frame and there is no serial number anywhere on either bike. None of the hubs have any date codes either. Both frames say made in England and used the usual Raleigh 26tpi threaded bottom bracket and Sturmey Archer headsets.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   reelfishin@netzero.com posted by Dick in FL on 1/25/2004 at 8:31:17 PM
Joe, look for the serial number stamped on the left rear dropout (which, ironically, is itself a stamping 8>D . Other clues are the 32/40 spoke count which ended around 1970/1971. The self adjusting brakes appeared around 1971 as did the black ribbed grips. Hope this brackets it for you.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   reelfishin@netzero.com posted by JONathan on 1/26/2004 at 3:24:01 AM
One of my "Sprites" has the serial alphanumerics on the seat-tube; backside right under the seat lug. It is 10 speed and is a ringer for the 1976 at Retro-Raleighs picture of a yellow "sprite".
Mine is carmen red. The other "sprite" is a lady's frame with SA AW 3-speed with date code '79 on the hub barrel. Both have English everything, pointing to Nottingham built; in addition to the "Made in England" decals.
Watch the small chainring anchor bolts to the spider. Mine has worked loose. I caught the problem coming home last week in the dark, on a levee road. The generator was useless at rest, so I sat on the side of the path trying to trace the problem.
As I turned the crank, I noticed a catch on the slight protuberance from the kickstand bracket. No wrench on board, so I got it threaded finger tight and made it home on the large chainwheel. I'm considering loctite (blue) on this troublesome part. The reason the bike was so cheap, was that this problem was manifest by a missing bolt!
After I reworked the BB and fitted a new 6-point bolt to the chainring, I KNOW that all three bolts were torqued down really well. So I never thought to check that when I started to hear the clnaking. Nice to have a quite road, even though it's 2 miles out off the expressway. The peace and quite is wonderful. Just a few riders and occasional cross-country runners.
Those running lights can be seen for two miles out. They are superb bikes for commutes. I hope you get it going.
BTW, this is one time that I was glad for a kickstand...imagine what that bolt head could do to a chainstay or paint at the very least. I had forgot to remove the kickstand as SOP. I got lucky.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   reelfishin@netzero.com posted by Dick in FL on 1/26/2004 at 5:00:11 AM
I had a similar chainring bolt problem with one of my Sprites. It was the fault of a non-original kickstand interfering with the arc of the bolt-heads. The previous owner must have been hard-of-hearing; the heads are all peened over from hundreds (thousands?) of collisions.

This lack of provision for a decent kickstand attachment was a major deficiency of early 10-speeds. Some of mine have tell-tale crimped chainstays near the BB.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   reelfishin@netzero.com posted by JONathan on 1/26/2004 at 5:19:55 AM
Orecisely why I remove them. I have a bucket full. This was the OEM stand, but the mounting was offset about 2mm on the driveside. If you think about the problem, the chainring is rotating under heavy torque which is working opposite direction to the rt. hand threads on the bolts!
For normal loading, probably nothing happens, but if the cranks get jeavy torques, the unwinding could happen, IMHO, mainly from the relatively coarse threads. I'm tempted to get slightly longer bolts, grind the heads a bit, because a regular thickness won't clear, then place a star washer and a nut on the other end (plenty of clearance outboard). The running gear is strong stuff, but that bolt is not doing it, IMHO.
In fairness, these bikes were probably not tested under extreme conditions, such as what mine has been exposed to in shakedwon cruises. Other than that problem and the derailer jockey wheel rubbing on the spoke protector in low gear, the bike is free of defects. The derailer rubbing is baffling. The Huret looks like a scissors jack for a go-cart. Nothing is out of line, so how could that happen? Surely, they didn't sell bikes that had that problem.
Of course, there is the ever tempting impulse to shuck it and put a SunTour "V" on the bugger and run it without looking back (or down). Just a few observations to ponder.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:  Raleigh Sprite posted by Joe on 1/26/2004 at 8:17:55 AM
I have the older one apart down to a bare frame now, the only stamping of any sort is an 'X' on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell and it's stamped on a 45 degree angle to centerline of the bike. I looked at the pics at RetroRaleighs and they all look different in one way or another. They both have 32/40 wheels so I am guessing that they are somewhere from 1969 to 1972? I guess I need to find out when the fenders changed from rounded tops to flat topped with squared off edges. Both of mine came from the same place, at the same time. I'm not sure of their history, but there is a good chance that they were bought together, or at least by the same owner. So far these are the only Raleighs I have had with no serial number other than a few that were made in Holland, but those say Made in Holland on the seat tube and use a different headbadge.
Both rear wheels have issues, it appears that the rear hub is separating in the center and both rear rims have some peeling chrome. All else is in excellent shape sans a few minor scratches.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   reelfishin@netzero.com posted by Dick in FL on 1/26/2004 at 10:19:55 PM
Take it from a former stress analyst, the pedaling torque is transmitted through those chainring bolts as pure shear. For a 220# rider and 170 mm cranks, the torque is 1472 lb-in. The Sprite chainring has three 1/4" bolts to react/transmit this resulting in a shear stress of 4000 psi. Just about right! Years ago I had a classic DeSoto Fireflite with left-handed threads on all the left side wheel studs. The rationale for doing this was above the eyebrows .... kinda like all the current hype over "hemi".

On kickstands, I am one of those guys who deems it uncivilized to throw a bike on the ground after dismounting. Kickstands assert one's civility. I am curious why my Robin Hood and Raleigh Twenty have built-in kickstands like my Chicago-made Schwinns, but my Raleigh Superbe uses a bolt-on Esge. Built-ins are my preference. Lacking that in a new acquisition, I *might* consider removal. Some of the bicycles I have acquired that have frame provisions for bolt-on kickstands are: Spalding Blade, Bridgestone Kabuki Submariner, Dawes.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   reelfishin@netzero.com posted by JONathan on 1/26/2004 at 11:13:27 PM
The assumption of an ideal state for real, as opposed to theoetical, analyses makes things easier. If the chainrings flex (they do) then the conditions change. I can actually see the chainring flex, although very slight displacement, under a heavy pedal stroke.
That's with pulling back on the bars and ramming down with the legs compressing the crank. I have broken pedals and chains before, which has me a bit spooked around bicycles. Ever noticed how the spider on a really good crankset has the chainring notched into the spider?
Like on my Team FUJI, that setup is designed for torques way beyond what I could deliver. The biggest problem with the cottered cranks, like the "sprite", is not them breaking, but they get nudged out of true just enough to make pedaling a nuisance. However, to be fair. As a commute bike, cruising along, none of these issues would pop up.
One thing that messed me up. The brake housing clamps are sharp, square edged clamps that are exactly where my thumbs can jam into them...just below the bike glove thumb opening! I think that rounding that off or maybe some polycoat on the nasty fitment will make that one go away.
Now that the bugs are getting worked out, the ol "Sprite" will be a friendly and dependable mount.
and after all this, I'll go back to riding the "LTD" 3-speed with 700c Wolbers.
Kickstands that bolt onto the chainstays couldn't be designed better to squash the tubes. Also, I have watched my bikes fall...right after I stood and stared at it whle the stand was deployed and I walked just far enough to not get back in time to rescue it from the fall. Their position next to the cranks is another disaster waiting to happen, IMHO.
My Schwinn "Varsities" have stand brackets, which are OK, except the spring gets loose and the stand hangs over the side, inless I wire it up. I've never had a bike while leaned against a wall or big tree. Bike racks are a good place to park 'em, and the kickstands are then a nuisance.
Just my 2 c's.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   reelfishin@netzero.com posted by JONathan on 1/26/2004 at 11:19:23 PM
OR, worse yet. On the train's bicycle car, when you have five bikes bungeed to the bar and try to get one out, usually with about 30 seconds to make it, and what gets jammed into anothre bike's spokes?...Right, the kickstand!

AGE / VALUE:   FIXED GEAR BIKE posted by: Kevin K on 1/25/2004 at 5:12:29 PM
Hi all. I've located a no name frame ( repainted gold metalflake with a black fork ) that is of good quality with which to build my fixed gear bike. Two questions:1)Why do some guys say that the wheel needs to be realigned and 2)I've got a very limited travel in the rear dropouts. What's the best way to achive proper chain tension given this situation. Thanks, Kevin

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   FIXED GEAR BIKE posted by T-Mar on 1/25/2004 at 9:38:10 PM
Provided you have at least 1/2 inch of wheelbase adjustment in the rear dropouts, then it is sufficient. You will need you adjust the length the chain by removing links. When you are within one link of optimum, then you will be able to fine tune the tension using the 1/2 inch of axle movement provided by the dropouts.

To provide the optimal mechanical efficieny for the chain, the rear cog must be in alignment with the front chainring. If you are using a standard, freewheel equipped, road wheel and a single cog, you will notice that there will be substantial deflection in the chain, towards the centre line of the frame. This is machanically inefficient, leads to increased wear and the possibility of dropping the chain. Usually the hub needs to be shifted more to the drive side to provide proper chain alignment. This is relatively simple to do by swapping spacers from one side of the axle, to the other. However, in doing so, the rim also shifts to the drive side and is to longer centred between the stays and requires redishing/re-alignment.

If you are using a wheel with a freehub, proper cog alignment can be acheived using spacers behind the cog, and no re-alignment of the hub or rim is required. And, of course, track hubs are engineered to provide proper alignment, with minimal use of spacers for the cog.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   FIXED GEAR BIKE posted by Gralyn on 1/26/2004 at 5:25:54 PM
Another thing you can usually do:
If you have a fairly common multi-speed bottom bracket set-up.....the spindle is usually longer on the drive-side. Sometimes you can reverse the spindle - which will pull your chainring in closer - giving you better alignment.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   FIXED GEAR BIKE posted by Ken on 1/26/2004 at 8:03:12 PM
If you move spacers around on your hub, you'll find it's not too hard to compensate dish to recenter the rim.
As always, you can check with capt. bike:
This article has a link to a database of chainline measurements. Sheldon also points out that if you're converting a road crank you can move your chainwheel inboard with spacers, if Gralyn's trick doesn't fix it.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   FIXED GEAR BIKE posted by Gralyn on 1/26/2004 at 8:30:43 PM
Yes, when I set up my Viscount for fixed gear, I actually had to use some spacers in conjunction with reversing the spindle - in order to get it aligned. On some bikes - reversing the spindle and using some spacers on the rear - will do the trick.....and the wheel doesn't have to be re-dished....but it doesn't happen that often.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   help--all i know is it's italian posted by: Jesse on 1/25/2004 at 3:50:23 PM
hey all, my name is Jesse. so my dad gives me his old bike, i take it to college and it gets stolen. i'd like to be able to give the police as accurate a description as i can, but i'm a "little" ignorant about makes of bikes etc.

i do know: it's italian. it was made in the 1970s (i think), by a company that went out of business--or stopped making bikes anyway--shortly after it made this one (omen?). it's a semi-pro road bike, (here's some more of my ignorance for you) or a semi-pro racing bike--is there a difference?

the name P Proietti rings a bell. anybody know their italian bike-making history?

i thank you all bunches for any help you can give me, may your two-wheels give you safe and peaceful journeys whenever you ride upon them.


   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   help--all i know is it's italian posted by T-Mar on 1/25/2004 at 9:50:45 PM
If it was taken by some kid for a joy ride, then it MIGHT turn up. If it was ripped by some pros for the parts, you can kiss it goodbye.

It's always a good idea to have any newly acquired bicyle registered with the local police department. That way they already have the relevant information (make, model, serial number, colour, etc) on hand. Also, take a picture of the bike and record the pertinent data on the back of the photo and keep the picture in a file with those of your your other valuables (TV, PC, stereo, etc). Give a back-up copy of the file to a trusted relative or your insurance agent. Yeah, you can do it on your PC too, but that's probably even more likely to get stolen than your bicycle, so if you do use your PC, make sure you have a back-up of the files on some securely stored discs.

The only Italian bicycle company that I'm familiar with, that sounds anything like Proietti, is Paletti. Good luck!

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Cool Phillips "club" bike posted by: Warren on 1/24/2004 at 9:07:36 PM
Have a look at this one...


It says it's a 60's bike, which would make it Raleigh made but that frame is pre-Raleigh. The rear mudguard eyelets are above the axle.

This would make a fine club bike. I would lose the Simplex crap and make it fixed or close ratio SA gearing. Very nice bike...quite big as well.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cool Phillips posted by Warren on 1/25/2004 at 4:08:48 AM
Sorry about the reference to Simplex being crap...I know there is general affection for this prestige stuff but personally I won't ride it especially on a brit bike. My near mint '67 A-O8 has it but that's not a rider.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Cool Phillips posted by Brian L. on 1/26/2004 at 12:27:41 AM
Warren, saw that one too. Sweet. Set up much like my Sports Tourer, but I'm not big on Delrin either. I have a much different opinion of the all alloy Simplex stuff, however.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Tires posted by: marc on 1/24/2004 at 8:57:42 PM
What kind of new tires do you guys like to use on your vintage light weights? Just curious, I have a few bikes that I would like to invest some money into replacing there tires with higher quality, higher performance tires. any input would be appreciated.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Tires posted by JONathan on 1/24/2004 at 11:14:50 PM
Part of the question is selection available for the 27's. I have found the Continental tires are rugged and cost effective.
I run them on both the 700c and 27" rims. If you get hp tires, make sure the bead is hooked, or it'll boil off the rim. That is not fun.
Specialized touring tires are also a good buy, IMHO. They are rough and tough for all the road debris. I went over a bunch of broken, tiny fragments of glass this week. Like going through a meteor field, you can dodge most. but some make it to the treads. The Specialized tires have a nice thick face, which prevents a lot of potential flats.
I stopped and brushed off a few little shards that had embeddd in the tires. No problem with flats. The $10 tires are not worth it in the long. They wear fast and ride funny.
Be careful if you use any tire that are above 70 psi on the steel rims. I can't emphasize that enough. Another reason to seek the hooked bead alloys for running the VLW's.
Good luck,

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Tires posted by Rob on 1/25/2004 at 1:03:46 AM
Yeah...flats...I had been doing pretty good for quite awhile...this week during my commute...two flats, both times on the way home in the dark...both times the front tire, which is rather old and thin. However I was somewhat lucky...first time, about half way home, it happened right near a transit station...so I used the flourescent lighting...a big shard of glass...no trouble finding the leak. The second time right at the end of the ride, just as I got off the bike to push it into my yard... again I found the leak without even having to take the tire right off...small shard of glass...

So about how much do the 'Specializeds' cost? ...reasonable? And how about the tires with the kevlar belts?? During my winter commuting, time and weight aren't real important...during the spring, summer and fall, I try to be as light as possible and I focus on fast rides...

   Tires posted by John E on 1/25/2004 at 2:45:15 AM
Watch those rims! If they lack hook beads, they are suitable only for relatively low-pressure tyres, e.g. 70 to perhaps 80 PSI or so. My only smooth-sided rims are the 27x1-1/4 Rigidas on my UO-8, which currently has 27x1-3/8" 70 PSI knobbies for cyclocross and commuting. At 90 PSI, I have watched a properly-seated tyre bead start to rise up and over the edge of a smooth-walled rim -- scary stuff.

   RE:Tires posted by JONathan on 1/25/2004 at 6:23:41 AM
Rob, I really can't say where the Specialized 27's are available. They crop up in the LBS's around here, S.F. bay area. Specialized is local...Morgan Hill, so it makes sense to have a healthy supply of their bikes and parts around these parts.
The "armadillo" species is a goodie for road, but they are summer tires, IMHO. The "touring" model is for all around use. Some shops will SO the tires for you. I picked up the two I have at a GS last summer. A guy had switched to 700c wheels and these were a buck a piece!
The hp 27's run the best, as the surface contact area is greater than with small diameter wheels, but there is a bit more resistance, so for hills, I like to switch to 700C (23-622) tires. This is no sweat with Weinmann "Vainqueur" cp's. I think that the "Continental" tires are easy to find.
Price can be under $20 on a good sale. I recall the "Specialized" tires were around $30 for 700c, on sale. As for kevlar cases. They are expensive, in absolute terms, except they hold up under a lot of abuse and they fold up easy for touring. I have them for a MTB, Miyata "Terra Runner" (1985), for
use in rough terrain...like the Warner Mtns. in N>E> Ca. or in the Cascades and Lava Beds region of Oregon. The volcanic rocks are nasty on tires. Back to the road bikes. I think the "Continentals" handle better, but the "Specialized" are highly durable. I rinse the tires off to get the grit and caked mud
off the sidewalls. They will last longer if clean. Dirt has a lot of salts that can eat through a sidewall fast.
Good luck, JONathan
If I run across a good source for the "Specialized", I'll let you know.

   RE:RE:Tires posted by L.P. on 1/25/2004 at 2:03:02 PM
I have found nothing wrong with the i.r.c. HP tires i have ran on two of my classics.[27-1 1/4].
Once again,go to www.bikenashbar.com for a very wide range of OUR kind of tires.
Have a great day,

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Tires posted by P Lavery on 1/25/2004 at 4:47:36 PM
It seems I only get flats when I commute to work, not on
weekend rides, club rides etc. There's just so much unavoidable debris where I have to ride. It's sad commentary on our "trash" culture. It I commute everyday, I
can count on a flat about once every other week.
I now always carry two spare tubes,tools, and a pump on all my bikes whenever I ride. Buying new tubes is my main excuse for visiting the local bike shop.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Tires posted by Joe on 1/25/2004 at 5:22:18 PM
I've had good luck with IRC RoadWinner Duro II tires with the kevlar belt. I switched two of my bikes over to these last spring and haven't had a flat since. These are a 105 psi skinwall tire with an almost smooth tread. I'm sure there not bullet proof but for under $20, they ride well, have a good feel, and they don't look out of place on an older bike. (I'm not a big fan of the colored treaded tires seen on todays rides, especially on a VLW.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Tires posted by T-Mar on 1/25/2004 at 10:21:24 PM
Like anything else, it all depends on what you want to do with the new tires. Tires are a very personal taste. Depending on your needs and riding style, what works well for me, may not work well for you.

Having got that off my chest, my favourite all round tire is the Continental GP, while my favourite race tire is the Michelin Axial Pro.

IRC makes a nice, inexpensive Route model which I favour for the vintage lightweights. They're availble in 27" x 1-1/4", handle 90 psi, have a raised centre rib and tan sidewalls. Best of all, the last batch only cost $5.00 CDN, per tire. But that was a couple years back at a bike show and I'm not sure if they are still available. They're nothing special, but then again, I prefer not push the 30 year bicycles to the limit!

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   MOTO MAYHEIM: PART DEAUX posted by: marc on 1/24/2004 at 8:19:28 PM
Well I've decide to go all french on the mirage. I've cleaned and waxed the frame and it looks great. It's kinda a grey with a hint of champagne color. I've polished the rigida super chromix wheels. The Huret deraileurs have been overhauled and have been installed. The bottom bracket was removed and inspected. Only thing left is to replace the cables, brake pads, and handlbar tape. The original seat was torn so I put a mesinger seat I had laying around on it. It's a racing saddle with mesinger name and two griffiths embossed on either side (A great looking seat I got for 2 bucks along with an Ideale 39 which unfortunately would have been perfect for this bike but it regretably found its way onto ebay) and it looks great on the bike. It's basically assembled and it is beautiful, graceful, and ready to turn some heads. I was planning on taking it for a ride today but unfortunately I live in chicago and we just got 3 inches of snow. I think I'll have to wait a day or two before I can give it a go.

I was tempted to to throw on all the alloy components on it but somehow it just looks more graceful this way. If I don't like the ride I can change the set up. I am actually I big fan of the rigida super chromix rims as long as they are laced to quality hubs. I've got a pair of quick release rigida wheels on my raleigh record ltd and they give a great ride.

I'm actually surprised by the weight as well. It's bascially completely put together and is pretty light. I've got to get a scale but it weight doesn't quite seem to correspond to what I expected with that 1020 tube sticker on the frame. The giant built schwinn world my neighbor give that is the same size is significantly heavier. Maybe I'm just too excited about this bike and maybe I'm hoping someone just decided to stick a 1020 sticker on it just for decoration! A guy can dream, can't he?

As for the mixte, it will be getting some suntour components and a spare set of weinmann alloy wheels. I haven't had a chance to ride it yet but I'm excited to test it out too.

And for my neighbor's schwinn world that I got the weinmann alloys from, I was thinking about keeping it but its a tad too heavy for my taste. I think I'll put a set of schwinn wheels on it throw it up on ebay and sell it for 20 bucks or so.

I'll post some pics of the moto's when I'm done.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   MOTO MAYHEIM: PART DEAUX posted by marc on 1/24/2004 at 8:57:23 PM
forgot to mention, I'm considering putting some moustache bars on this bike. I've never ridden with them but I hear good things about them and I think they look great on vintage lightweights.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   MOTO MAYHEIM: PART DEAUX posted by JONathan on 1/24/2004 at 10:18:56 PM
Hi, Marc. I've had a similar dilemma to yours and I solved it, or rather resolved it, by keeping a set of Araya alloy 27x1 1/4 inch wheels as a "runner" set.
Whatever vintage craft is to go on a given day, I set it up with the Arayaa. Most times there is only some brake tweaking to seal with and it's ready to roll. Braking and performance are noticeably improved with the alloy wheel set.
I like the specular brilliance of the "chromelux" Rigidas and for cafe cruising, the set up is perfect. Just a thought, if you can hunt down a pair of alloy wheels to use as "runners", you can have it both ways. As to the Motos weight.
I think it is subjective. My Peugeot "Iseran" has that same bounce to it when I give it the 2 inch drop to check for loose connections, before hitting the road. It is 26 pounds! Feels like its 20 pounds. It "rides light", too. That's where the subjectivity enters the equation. I say that riding "light" IS "light".
THe Schwinn "world" cost me $40 at a Sal. Army store, but I was desperate for a bike to ride far from home. It isn't chromo tubes, either. I had thought it was plain gauge chromo. My "Traveler" is plain gauge chromo tubes. But it isn't the weight that distinguishes the two. The "Trav" has alloy wheels, Sugino cranks and SunTour
derailers. Also, the "Trav" has tighter geometry; a factor not lost on me when it comes to performance at road speeds. No comparison. The "world" is a basic bike that is good for easy rollin recreational use or as a grind-it-out commuter. When I look at the "world" next to the "traveler", the latter is like a 12 Meter yacht berthed aside a sloop.
I wouldn't sell my "world" for $20. I have $40 in it, so that's part of it, but it is a real solid bike. With alloy wheels and higher grade pedals, it would ride very well, IMHO. OTOH, if space is a factor...I say $50 as bottom dollar.
Good luck, JONathan

AGE / VALUE:   New ride for foul climate! posted by: Elvis on 1/23/2004 at 7:20:13 PM
Hi all. Been a while since I posted.
It's not technically "vintage", but it is NOS, figured I'd share the tale. When I bought my first "new" roadbike in 2001 it was a Trek 1000 already a year old [2000's model].
I remember looking wistfully at a much nicer blue bike with a better frame and bar end shifters that hung from the lbs ceiling, but it's cantilever brakes didn't seem like the thing for the road...
Then came September 11, and for all of America -- including me -- 2001 develoed a special significance.
Having just found out I am graduating university, I went back to the local shop to get me a new bike -- and there was the blue bike I had seen before, practically brand new even though it was almost 4 years old.
Not one to play dentist to a gift horse, I got the bike, which turned out to be a TREK x-01 cyclecross bike. It has all the features of a good touring bike, bar end shifters, cantilever brakes, relaxed frame angles compared to road bikes -- but wider double-walled 700c rims and semi-knobby tires in case I venture offroad. The bike is blue with white and red lettering, and says "Handmade in the USA" on the chainstay. Nice patriotic bike, and it was like half its original price. I wish I had that kind of luck every day!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   New ride for foul climate! posted by L.P. on 1/23/2004 at 10:38:28 PM
Hey elvis,
Great post,welcome back and just today i stopped at my local no b/s bike shop and pondered a new road bike.
I saw $500 to $1000 dollar,absolutley beatifull bikes.
My tax return should be here soon i told the shop clerk.
For now i bought a $2.99 spoke wrench and a [bicycling] mag .
I may venture into a new bike,but i tell you now,i will never let the classics/vintage bikes ride out of my life.

   New ride for foul climate! posted by Elvis on 1/23/2004 at 11:23:14 PM
Yeah, the new bikes ARE cool.
But the Old bikes -- there's history there, and they have a certain feel. Very few brands still make affordable lugged steel frames -- those who do use steel cost a fortune. ...it's a lost art, sort of like juggling. I won't be gettin rid of my old bikes either ...still have plenty [people say I should get rid of them or just build a house out of bike parts. I dunno. I already made an ashtray out of a small chainring and some other parts].
Mostly now they're all in various states of repair, now only just my Bianchi fixed gear [42-18] my Schwinn le Tour 1985, and my Nishiki Modulus are rideable... I think the vintage bikes are an addiction!

   RE:New ride for foul climate! posted by JONathan on 1/24/2004 at 12:26:17 AM
I often go by this high end shop on my home route and last week I discovered a guy has set up shop building custom lugged frames..ehich then I presume are fitted out by the bike shop next door. There was a Campagnola, Windsor "Professional" and another real nice frame that all were being repaired or having custom work done to them.
Needless to say, I was impressed. Then, I go inside the bike shop next door and I see what looks to be a vintage bike...brand new for $1550 US. It is a "Romulus" by Rivendell. Exquisite build. A lot of bikes looked like "Frankenbikes" with all their mix-match of construction techniques...carbon/aluminum/titanium...all on the same bike!
Can't match the elegance of a superbly crafted, lugged steel bike, IMHO. The chap building the bikes next door is one person I need to see about a couple of projects that are beyond my capabilities. At least with steel, you can seek repairs as an alternative to junking the frame. That's cool.
To have bike maker so close, is a novel thing, but our vintage LW's really tapped into something special in cycling. They are here to stay, IMHO.
Happy rides,

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   New ride for foul climate! posted by T-Mar on 1/24/2004 at 2:12:07 PM
I also recently acquired a bicycle from this century. It's very much state of the art with a Scandium tubeset, carbon fibre forks and stays, carbon fibre seatpost, Campagnolo Chorus group with 20 gears, Campagnolo Proton wheels with 24 & 22 spoke wheels, etc.

This baby is a real performance rocket. Comparing her to my classic, custom, Marinoni steel frame with Columbus SLX/SPX tubeset, the new bike is a hands down winner. There is a much more efficient power transfer and it's 5 lb lighter, making for exemplary climbing and sprinting. The two bikes are roughly on par for comfort and handling, though I have yet to take the new bike on a really long ride and a white knuckle downhill.

While I have yet to experience any negative aspects of the new bike, I can envision some. A good impact will very likely destroy the carbon components. The short chainstays and thin cogs will probably accelerate drivetrain wear. The lower design weight will decrease the lifespan. The complex workings of the Ergo shift levers are designed to prevent user maintenance.

JONathan brought up this last point, recently. He questioned his mechanical ability to handle the increased complexity of the new bicycles. The answer is that the component manufacturers do not want you repair the new bicyles! The components are designed so that they can only be replaced as units. Shimano long ago gave up gave up on supplying small parts for their equipment, except for expendibles like pads, cables, pulleys, etc. Camapagnolo is now following suit. For instance, small Ergoshift parts are still available, but even the shops can't get them. The shift unit can be repaired, but only by sending it back to the Campagnolo distribution centre. Let's face it, the companies are shifting as much profit as they can, out of the hands of the LBS and back into their own pockets. Stocking a complete inventory small spare parts is expensive, It's cheaper and more profitable to stock complete units for repairs. So JONathan, there's no shame in being intimidated by the new products, as they were intentionally designed that way!

While the new bike is superior and worth it's value, it's also a constant reminder of my increasing age and decreasing physical abilities. My first, good lightweight had a 46/18T low gear that I used to climb the steepest hills we had. I now require a bike that's 7 lb lighter and has a 39/25T low gear, to do the same climb. With the new bike, I have no excuses for not keeping up with the twenty somethings, other than my own physical inability. Maybe I'll keep riding the vintage stuff.

   new vs. old posted by John E on 1/25/2004 at 2:40:48 AM
I prefer older bikes because most (admittedly not all) of today's new road bikes are designed expressly for all-out racing, at the cost of reduced reliability, longevity, repairability, economy, and practicality. My Bianchi is 22 years old and still an absolute blast to ride. At age 44, my Capo is still going strong, with an exceptionally smooth, comfortable ride. Yes, those long, pencil-thin chainstays and short lugs do permit alot of bottom bracket flex, but that ornate old frame is surprisingly efficient if one pedals absolutely smoothly.

   RE:new vs. old posted by JONathan on 1/25/2004 at 3:48:21 AM
Exactly. The "Romulus", and larger cousin; "Redwood", are beautifully built bikes, yet they are set up with modern gear systems and brakes.
The handmade look is what I want. I like the unique character of even the production VLW's...at some points there were craftpeople doing something.
I was surprised to see the Rivendells at the shop, but they are somewhat farsighted, and realistic. I think the commute bicycle is the next big mover.
Fuji is has the "Osaka" and "Sapporo". Sensible bikes for everyday riding and good for touring and sport riding, too.
How can they be beat?

AGE / VALUE:   Super Mondia posted by: Andrea on 1/23/2004 at 6:21:18 PM
I've recently acquired an old women's road bike. It's a Mondia, the head badge says super mondia. I know now that it's a swiss bike, and the dropouts have campagnolo stamped on them. The bike also has campy shifters and headset, which makes me think that originally this bike had all campy, except for the brakes which are weinmann. the crankset and derailleurs are shimano, except for the front which is suntour. It's been sitting in my mom's garage for years upon years so I'm having it tuned up right now but I was wondering if anyone knew more about Mondias, since I'm pretty vague on them.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Super Mondia posted by Ken on 1/23/2004 at 6:46:41 PM
One paragraph on Sheldon's site, which I am going to start calling the bible...
IMHO you won't miss the N.R. derailleur, but if you do I have a used one.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Super Mondia posted by JONathan on 1/23/2004 at 6:58:33 PM
Try Classic Rendevous for more information. I recall they have quite a lot on the Mondia brand.
They were noted for fancy (wild?) paint jobs. Nice to have a history to establish a provenance, of sorts.
My guess is the Campy cottered cranks were replaced with cotterless. It has to be a good riding bike, too.
Either as a ride or as a display bike, you "win". What make and what size are the wheels? Saddle?
I think there is a serial number chart at the CR site, if you want to try for a specific date of manufacture.
Good luck,

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Super Mondia posted by John S on 1/23/2004 at 10:38:40 PM
I have a couple of Mondia's and have run across a few. They were nice bikes, well constructed of highest quality materials. Disigns of older models (60's- early 70's) were more-oriented to touring vs. racing, which gives a more comfortable ride. Never seen a woman's model (would love one for my wife to match mine...). Probably did come with all campagnolo except brakes.

They are swiss-made and one thing that comes with that is threads and diameters that are old french standards, not used today. This can mean difficulty upgrading with more modern components, especially replacement headsets, bottom brackets and some other parts.

Nevertheless, it seems you have a stylish bike that was fine in it's day yet still can be a nice rider today.

John S

AGE / VALUE:   SCHWINN CONTINENTAL posted by: L.P. on 1/22/2004 at 10:33:53 PM
Can anyone tell me the first year of the schwinn continental being made?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   SCHWINN CONTINENTAL posted by marc on 1/23/2004 at 7:27:40 AM
I believe it was the same year as the varsity. the continental being higher up on the food chain. I think it was 1960 or 1961.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   SCHWINN CONTINENTAL posted by Joe on 1/23/2004 at 8:54:07 AM
It looks like 1960 was the first Continental, it used 26" wheels like the Varsity. It was given 27" wheels in '61. It also had ten speeds vs. the Varsity with eight. It was offered in both a drop handlebar version and in a fendered, upright version. Try these links to Tom Findley's sight:http://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn/196103.jpg

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   SCHWINN CONTINENTAL posted by Kevin K on 1/23/2004 at 11:56:56 AM
Hi guys. Well 1946 or 1947 was actually the first year for the Schwinn Continental. I had a 1947 frame and I saw a complete 1947 at a swap meet for $50 a few years back. The early Contintental's were nothing like the later models. The early bikes were fillet brazed like the Super Sports, Sports Tourers..........of seamless tubing. The also had beautiful 3 piece chrome cranksets and headsets. The forks were nice. The decal package was artwork. The name Continental originated as US service men were returning from service in Europe and wanted bikes to ride like they had seen overseas. Hence, Europe is know as " The Continentient " so the " Continental " was born. Now you know the rest of the story.

   RE:  SCHWINN CONTINENTAL posted by Eric Amlie on 1/23/2004 at 1:55:26 PM
A small addition; I've heard that the more modern derailleur equipped Continental was introduced in May of 1960, a month previous to the introduction of the 8 speed Varsity in June 1960. Can't vouch for the info though. Concerning the wheel size; everything that I have seen says that the Continental had 27" wheels right from the start(5/60), and that the Varsity had 26" wheels through the '62 model year and got the 27" for the '63 model year.

   SCHWINN CONTINENTAL posted by John E on 1/23/2004 at 5:23:48 PM
Three years ago, someone brought two 1960 Schwinn Contis to my office for evaluation. Both were the tourist version, with upright bars and wide saddles, Coppertone in color, and each had the hallmark knight's helmet logos on its downtube. Both had original-looking Weinmann sidepull brtakes and 27" rims with solid axle hubs (centerpulls and quick release came a year or two later).

The original Varsity-Conti differentiations were wheel size, cog count, and fork (flat blade versus tubular). After wheel size and cog count became equal, the Conti was always distinguished from the Varsity by tubular forks, quick release wheels, and center-pull brakes.

   RE:SCHWINN CONTINENTAL posted by L.P. on 1/23/2004 at 9:47:47 PM
Thanks for all your replys.Boy did i learn a thing or two!!!

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Hey, Moto fans posted by: Brian L. on 1/22/2004 at 5:32:02 PM
Check out the Buy-it-Now price on this clean machine:

   Motobecane posted by John E on 1/23/2004 at 5:36:08 PM
Very nice!

However, given the model year, prospective bidders should be warned that the BB is metric/Swiss, rather than English/ISO threaded. A left-thread 35x1 fixed cup is very rare. (The right-thread 35x1 French = Swiss adjustable cup is considerably easier to find.)

Never scrap a ca. 1980 Peugeot Carbolite 103 frame without first salvaging its Swiss-threaded BB cups (fixed cup unscrews clockwise, like English and opposite ca. 1970 Peugeots). Likewise, any ca. 1980 Peugeot frameset with a healthy bottom bracket, irrespective of frame damage, is worth at least $10-20 for its BB cups alone.

   RE:Motobecane posted by Brian L. on 1/23/2004 at 7:32:18 PM
Good point, John, but a reputable bike shop should be able to rethread the BB to ISO.

   RE:RE:Motobecane posted by JONathan on 1/24/2004 at 12:41:34 AM
The BB shells on French bikes are pretty thin. I know threading one out may be a bit of a trick, but I;m sure a good outfit could handle it, but personally, I would stick to OEM if at all possible. My Mercier (100) looks pretty beefed, but I don't know about my Moto "Gran Tour" or especially my "Roold" 10 speed road racer.
Just a thought. I still like the idea of using the Phil Wood or similar modular BB. They had those decades back for some English road bikes. Schwinn even had a kit for converting from Ashtabula cranks to modern cotterless ISO BB's. I'd like to find one of those jobs.
My "GranTour" is a great ride, even as a facultative 5-speed. I can stop and shift chainrings by hand.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Jockey Pulleys posted by: Wayne on 1/22/2004 at 3:39:37 PM
Unfortunately I have been doing enough riding on my old Raleighs that I am starting to wear out the jockey pulleys on the old Suntour rear derailleurs. I haven't seen anywhere any information on whether or not there are any "modern" pulleys that will fit the old Suntour units.
Has anyone had any luck replacing these and with what?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Jockey Pulleys posted by JONathan on 1/22/2004 at 10:59:39 PM
If you try the pegboard, I find the rough side "up" works best.
The rough side has a waffel-like rough grid that cuts down the bounce. Also, the thing you're working on doesn't slide easily.
Four sheetrock screws hold it at the corners. You can fit two sides flush and handsaw the other two sides flush...use the handsaw flat on the surface to keep it from binding and tearing the board; it pretty thin and you won't start sawing into your bench top by mistake.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Jockey Pulleys posted by Rob on 1/22/2004 at 11:16:03 PM
FWIW...Simplex Criterium (aka a glorfied Prestige) pulley wheels have bearings...whenever I'm taking a part an unfamiliar der. I kind of watch out for bearings...the number of times I've been down on all fours with a light looking for small bits I don't care to contemplate...often the lost bearing, or whatever, will show up a few weeks later when you step on it or you're down looking for a washer or part of the brake adjusting mechanism, and so forth....JONathan has a good idea...I sometimes take things apart over a spread-out rag or a small box or such...one of those little machinist's scribes, with a magnet at the other end, is endlessly useful to me...I have the Craftsman version...it kind of looks like a mechanical pencil...I guess Sears still sells it, I bought mine in the mid 1970's...

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Jockey Pulleys posted by JONathan on 1/23/2004 at 5:22:14 PM
Oops! I just checked my bench top. It is 1/4 inch masonite, not 1/8 inch. Works kind of like the "Labyrinth" game...with the rolling ball bearing.
Sorry about the mistake.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Jockey Pulleys posted by JONathan on 1/22/2004 at 6:52:31 PM
Whoa! That's a good one. I've tried unsuccessfully to get pulleys at LBS's. I resorted to the tried and true method of test fitting good used ones from broken derailers. I recall the only problem is the bushing diameters might be different.
All the cheap pulleys use bushings for the anchor pin bolt. I take the "bad" wheel off and compare the diameter of the hole with a "good" pulley. I think the differences are like 6mm vs. 6.5mm, which isn't a lot, but enough to be a problem.
An earlier post described a conversion procedure, but I can't recall details. Check the archives for "pulley" or "bushing". Fortunately, there are not too many different sizes, so if you have ANY spares that can come off a used derailer (remember, never throw anything away...collecting Rule #1) you have a 50/50 for success.
Good luck,

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Jockey Pulleys posted by JONathan on 1/22/2004 at 7:17:43 PM
Here you go, I just found the great post.

The Simplex (vintage) will swap with the SunTour. Both use 6mm pins.
The Shimano uses the 5mm.
Glad you asked that question. It is a real concern for serious restoration.
Good luck, JONathan

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Jockey Pulleys posted by T-Mar on 1/22/2004 at 7:38:42 PM
FYI, Huret also uses 6mm and is interchangable with SunTour and Simplex.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Jockey Pulleys posted by Ken on 1/22/2004 at 8:12:32 PM
This looks like the place for this question: Who made the derailleurs marked Made in France that appeared on Schwinns (up to 72 or so)? Am I the only one who didn't know those pulleys had loose ball bearings? -suprised the heck out of me when I was cleaning one from a Continental recently.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Jockey Pulleys posted by T-Mar on 1/22/2004 at 8:23:57 PM
Those are probably Schwinn branded Huret Allvit derailleurs, commonly referred to as Safety Allvits due to Schwinn's demand of a derailleur guard.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Jockey Pulleys posted by JONathan on 1/22/2004 at 10:48:50 PM
That's interesting. You may have sealed bearing pulleys. Durham (LA) had sets that were universal..fit almost any cage.
They were a wise choice for touring bikes that would range far and wide...usually away from repair services. Did you have to remove a nylon seal that snaps onto the pulley? It's easy to crimp the seal, which is best removed carefully that can work between the seal and the pulley. Use your imagination. My choice is an exacto (WEAR GOGGLES). You can service the bearings and refit the seal if it's not damaged from rough treatment.
The only other ball-bearing pulleys I know were on an old Campy "Gran Sport" that I am rebuilding. There isn't much resistance on the pulleys, but because of their location, the road grit and water hits them hard. A sealed unit is a great idea. I keep flooding mine with 3-in-1 machine oil to flush the stuff out. I'm not laughing, but I have done just that so many times it seems funny. Solution? Here's what I do. My VLW Rule#2: assume nothing.
To lesson the effect of not adhering to this rule, I have a 1/8" masonite pegboard that fits over my workbench. If anything drops out of something, it will most likely lodge itself in one of the little holes..which makes retrieval a snap with a little screwdriver or grease on a toothpick works. Before I tried this, I was losing all kinds of little bits over the side...into gravel! I rarely find them, in fact, I just wouldn't look and zI'd have better luck spotting them.
I'm still finding what appears to be bike component bits, but I have no idea what. I have a peanut can almost full. Bearings are easy to get, fortunately.
Good luck,

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Jockey Pulleys posted by Chris on 1/23/2004 at 10:45:50 PM
While you are at Sears, buy ( in the tool section) (for about oh, $10.00 or so) a small metal bowl there that is magnetic and work over that so if the ball bearing falls it falls into the bowl and stays put. This way you don't lose the thing during the rebuild. I have a piece of sheet steel over the magnetic bowl so if it drops away from the bowl it is still not lost.
Jockey pulleys! I love the all metal ones! The old Alvits with the metal pulley wheels.
Snap all of this up that you find and please do me a favor.

Be there in the old shop when they are going to heave it all out. The cabinet or tray or old wooden drawer full of derailers and these parts. The cones and wheels and small bit parts. Hang out there and buy it all before they decide to toss it out because you might not be there the day they decide to toss it all out or some other collector dude will get it instead of you. We cannot allow that, now can we?
( Unless it is me, then you never mind!)
With the prices paid for a N.O.S. Juy Simplex model 543 derailer these days, (hundreds!) just trust me, it's worth whatever the shop is gonna ask for it!
Just have them pull out the entire drawer, dump it out and bring it all home! The Simplex drawer, the drawer marked Campagnolo, Huret, Simplex.
Get the book the Dancing Chain history and developement of the derailer bicycle by Frank Berto and memorize it and then go off a - hunting the cool old derailers!
Lots of fun!

Oh and if they have no parts like this, If it's already long since picked clean, it's perhaps because I have already been there and they will probably curse "that fellow Chris" under their breath. They'll close the empty drawer and say "Sorry Dude, we have nothing like what you are asking for."

Now you ask, "What's in the basement?" You need to try because I could have failed to snap up the goodies in the basement. They could have told me: "No" when I asked and so perhaps you will have more luck so ask them!
Good Luck! Happy hunting! Remember that if you don't go out searching and trying somebody else will or else it'll be in the garbage one day. I'd like to at least hear your stories and tales of what you find. The: "Dude, you'll never believe what I saw and what I brought home! type stories.