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Archived: Vintage Lightweights

AGE / VALUE:   schwinn internal clamping seatpost posted by: Troy Moore on 7/7/2004 at 10:04:19 PM
I am looking for a seatpost that would fit a 10 year old Schwinn 434 or 567 model The seat post has an internal clamp that is like the wedge on a stem. IF ANYONE HAS THIS ARE CAN DIRECT ME TO SOMEONE THAT DOES PLEASE CONTACT ME.

      schwinn internal clamping seatpost posted by John E on 7/8/2004 at 2:14:33 PM
The Peugeot Carbolite 103 frames use a similar system. IF (no guarantees here!), by happy coincidence, the diameters are the same, you might look for a Carbolite in a thrift shop, yard sale, or discard pile.

   RE:   schwinn internal clamping seatpost posted by Dick in FL on 7/8/2004 at 4:31:28 PM
The same goes for the Bridgestone Kabuki Submariner. The use of cast aluminum lugs forced them into this type of seatpost. Sadly, I have run across only one of these.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   schwinn internal clamping seatpost posted by Ken on 7/8/2004 at 7:56:27 PM
What about Harris Cyclery? If the Captain can't find it, well...

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   schwinn internal clamping seatpost posted by Derek Coghill on 7/8/2004 at 11:20:09 PM
I found a Peugeot Triathlon frame that needed this; I ended up having a tame machine shop make me one. Swap labour for labour...I fixed his Ducati and he made me a seatpost!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   schwinn internal clamping seatpost posted by mike p on 7/9/2004 at 4:58:22 AM
I have at least one, maybe two of them in the shed-what diameter do you need-mike

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   schwinn internal clamping seatpost posted by Shaun on 7/9/2004 at 10:58:22 PM
I have several Peugeot Carbolite 103 tubed bikes but none of them use the internal clamp. However, I have a Bridgestone/Kabuki Submariner (stainless main tubes with aluminum lugs) that uses one and another Kabuki model (can't remember off the top of my head) with one. What size are you looking for?

   I used to have one from a Kabuki... posted by Elvis on 7/11/2004 at 12:44:23 AM
...Skyway [oddest ten-speed roadie I ever saw, had a rear disc brake... but sadly dismantled it and have cannabalized all the parts.
I had no idea that the Peugoet or Schwinn lines ever did anything like that.

   RE:I used to have one from a Kabuki... posted by JONathan on 7/11/2004 at 4:56:08 AM
"Retro-Cycles Peugeot" has some bikes with the expansion plug seat-post anchor. Seat-tube diameters are tricky enough, and when you throw in a somewhat obscure style the selection is further rarefied.
Located somewhere on Sheldon Brown's bicycle web pages is a fairly thorough listing of seat-post diameters...I was impressed with the seemingly random specifications. I have one bike with that style; a Kabuki (Bridgestone).
Without a seat-tube lug, you are pretty much stuck with that esoteric style. A machinist is one option. I have found that they are very nice enough chaps about doing up special fittings. If they can spin out a custom taper in 5 minutes, a seat-post poses little problem, IMHO.
My wood lathe was built over 125 years BP and the taper was totally obscure. A machinist (journeyman) cranked one out, using just the tail stock as a guide, in 7 minutes!
Good luck,

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Brake lever question posted by: Meatwad on 7/7/2004 at 6:59:02 AM
Ive got a lot of Dia-comp and weinman brake levers that have been swapped beyond reason. Some are off of steel bars of a small diameter and others off a larger diameter aluminum. I know that the clamps are specific but is the mating surface of the body/hoods area specificly arched to match the diameter of the bars? I would think it would be but in compareing them to the bars I am at a loss. I dont want to take the wrapped bar bikes apart only to remain equally confused or learn the important difference between the two by horific trial and error.

      Brake lever question posted by John E on 7/7/2004 at 7:40:37 PM
I have never observed or heard of any difference in the lever housings themselves, and I have successfully traded between the two band lengths when switching bars.

   RE:   Brake lever question posted by Meatwad on 7/8/2004 at 6:55:15 AM
Thanks for the info John.

WANTED:   information on Western Flyer bike posted by: Kimberly on 7/7/2004 at 6:16:53 AM
I lucked into a bike and now I want information about it. Anyone that can help, please do. It has a sticker on the very front says Western Flyer. The name on the chain guard says Galaxy Flyer. Appears to have original seat, with only one small tear on side(somebody dropped it probably). Handlebar grips are molded plastic with the words "western flyer" molded in it. No rust on this ladies blue bike with front and rear fenders. Would love someone to tell me what year this bike is and what it is worth.

   RE:WANTED:   information on Western Flyer bike posted by Shaun on 7/9/2004 at 11:08:00 PM
I have what sounds like the identical bike! The frame's downtubes are parallel and curved like a similar vintage Schwinn. It is a single speed cruiser with a coaster brake. Original tires and grips with "Western Flyer" embossed on them. Galaxy Flyer on the chain guard...anyway...Western Flyer bikes were sold by Western Auto Stores. I am not certain of the vintage of this model, but am guessing that mine is from the mid to late 1960's.

You may want to inquire in the "Balloon Tire and Middleweights" discussion group, as the regulars there may know more about these. Let me know if you find any more info.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   White Cloth Bar Tape posted by: Gralyn on 7/7/2004 at 1:18:04 AM
Any tips on how to clean white cloth bar tape? I put some new on the Bottecchia several week ago.....and it's already very dirty. What will clean it?

    White Cloth Bar Tape posted by John E on 7/7/2004 at 7:43:08 PM
That's one reason I always use black tape.

(Sorry not to be helpful. You would have to find a cleaner that would not compromise the tape's backside adhesive.)

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: White Cloth Bar Tape posted by jack on 7/8/2004 at 7:41:47 AM
It is my understanding that the white tape is/was changed regularly for racers. Now that this stuff is 3 bucks a roll (enough for one side only) that's probably one reason its not used that much anymore. Rather than give up, I'd try scrubbing it with a brush and hot/warm soapy water and rinse. The most you can lose is you need to replace tape.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: White Cloth Bar Tape posted by P.C. Kohler on 7/9/2004 at 4:23:04 PM
I think the usual practice with white bar tape was to shellac it. It doesn't come out white, however, even with "clear" shellac but rather a not unattractive pale tan colour. And it still gets dirty! I have shellaced white tape on my '48 RRA and it looks rather wonderful in that "used" racer kinda fashion. But cleaning white cotton bar tape without lifting the adhesive is going to be difficult.

You might start over and try maybe using a clearcoat instead of shellac to keep the whiteness and protect as well.

P.C. Kohler

   Geez, I had that problem.... posted by Elvis on 7/11/2004 at 2:19:15 AM
With one of my earlier bikes. I sweat a lot, so I am hard on cork tape... lasts about a year and a half if i buy it brand new... if it's on the bike when I get it, it'll be replaced in a month. I can't imagine white cloth...
If you have to have white or another light color bar tape, for pete's sake use cork or even vinyl, at least it can be wiped off w/ a damp cloth and the dirt doesn't stick as much.

P.S. - most grime on the bars/brake hoods is a result of having to tinker with a bike, sometimes a thrown chain like when it overshifts. Keep a sock in your pocket or in the pouch under your seat if you ride with a lock; I keep a small padlock in case I have to run itno a store or something at the end of a ride for coffee, and I keep the lock in a sock so it doesn't rattle around, but i have to tell you, if I need to touch the chain I just use the sock to grab it, then turen it inside out. Since I started doing this my grip tape and brake hoods are immeasurably cleaner. They still get gritty from use and sweat, but can't do naught about that.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   This past holiday weekend posted by: Gralyn on 7/6/2004 at 12:16:52 PM
A couple of things:
The 1989 Trek 400 project is coming along very well. It has gone so much quicker than the white '74 Raleigh Grand Prix did....probably due to the lack of oxidation on components. For example, the dark, anodized rims - I only needed to wipe them clean - no scrubbing and polishing. Even the spokes were shinny and new. Etc. etc. I did have one problem, though - and still have it: getting the tires on the rims! I put a new set of tires with Kevlar bead - but managed to pinch the tube on one of them. I patched it - and put it on again - either I pinched it again - or didn't get it patched well-enough - or there was another hole.....so I have to back and re-do that. Some of these tires-to-rims.....it's just rediculous. Well, I have everything on it except for the chain, pedals, and bar tape. I'm getting some yellow bar tape - to match the yellow lettering on the frame. It's weighing in at about 21 lbs now.

My Bottecchia - the one with the "screaming brakes"....I sanded the surfaces of the brake pads.....I rode it yesterday......and they still scream! Sanding them had no effect. I will try a different brake pad - and see how that goes.

The Raleigh Grand Prix - it was all finished - except for test-riding it, making minor adjustments, etc. In the process - I notice that the left crank is hitting the chain stay. What could be wrong? I examine the situation....I'm thinking - maybe I can adjust the cups more toward the right - to give me some clearance. Somehow in the process - I happen to notice.......I had put the crank arm on backwards!!!!! I must have been half-asleep when I did that! I took it off and flipped it over.....of course, that corrected the problem.

AGE / VALUE:   Manticore posted by: Guest on 7/6/2004 at 9:05:33 AM
I think, we can put together, likes piano and doesn't pay for bikes together. Do not give this ebayer, any credit. A cheat.

AGE / VALUE:   Dump Finds posted by: John S on 7/5/2004 at 9:16:46 PM
Our local landfill has a recycling area - you can dump your stuff for free - old TV's/monitors, petroleum products, wood, yard waste, cement, metal, etc.

Seems common for people to drop off bikes and parts, and I've managed to scavenge a few, though some of the workers get a bit uncomfortable - not sure if they scavenge themselves, or some say their supervisor doesn't like folks rummaging. Mostly, it's been just fine.

A complete Viscount with in-famed Death Fork. Pretty weatherbeaten so I took the cranks. Too bad the sealed bearing hubs were siezed.

A french bike, low end, but with old Cinelli stem, Camp. bar-end shifters, Universal 68 front brake, Mafac Racer rear, Mafac levers, some other doo-dads.

Tubular wheels - Campagnolo Tipo high flange front hub, Specialized 32 hole front hub.

Shimano 600 hubs-Wobler Alpine 700c rims, like new.

Pulled a couple other cranks...

Left lots behind, MTB partial bikes, kids bikes, etc.

Good news, someone told me they set some bikes aside to donate for the Sheriff's annual kids bike give-away. If not scavenged, at least this stuff is getting recycled.

   recycling area posted by John E on 7/6/2004 at 3:10:54 PM
EVERY landfill should have a recycling / sharing area. Too much usable stuff ends up getting buried and compacted; what a waste!

   RE:recycling area posted by Derek Coghill on 7/6/2004 at 9:43:57 PM
Here (Scotland) you're not supposed to take stuff from the council dumps. I got a nice Peugeot "Triathlon" frame-and-forks while no-one was looking though. This was some months ago, I ended up having a seat post made for it as it's a quill type of thing.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dump Finds posted by David on 7/7/2004 at 11:39:10 AM
Isn't it usual in the UK for someone to buy "diving" rights to the local tip? Hence when you dump your stuff it belongs to them. Tips I've visited in England usually have a collection of scavengers doing business in them. They pull the better stuff (and much of the worse!) and sell it.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dump Finds posted by Mark E. on 7/7/2004 at 3:23:00 PM
Fortunately, our transfer station has an area where folks put anything they think might be wanted by someone else, and it's up for grabs. This weekend I scored a Campania Sport in perfect condition (except for the tires), and what I think may be a vintage Schwinn roadster. Classic, smooth lines and Schwinn's trademark frame constuction. The front badge is gone and the serial # on the headset has been filed off (!!), but the rivits are spaced identical to my Schwinn Continential (another dump score). It is interesting for the 5 speed spocket set with Positron shifter and ATOM rear drum break. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dump Finds posted by JONathan on 7/8/2004 at 7:37:07 AM
Possible would be a "Suburban" from late '70's. They look a lot like a "Continental", which is very much like a "Varsity", except for the forks. The "Varsities" have those single-piece, forged steel forks, while the others have tubular forks. The Shimano "positron" front freewheel and sometimes indexed rear derailers were used on the lower end bikes. Kind of interesting, as the price-target bikes are not usually good candidates for developing new technologies, IMHO.
As for the dumps. Things are pretty tight around our local sites. The "old school" dumps had much greater freedom...and much less potential for tire punctures. We are directed to the absolute worst spot to unload the stuff. I won't go there anymore. I'll cal for a pickup, instead. I would like to propose a "trade-free" zone for anyone to go. It makes total sense, especially now, with dwindling resources. One feature about steel bikes; they are valuable as scrap iron, so I think they are picked over and placed in a pile somewhere.
Just my 2.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Dump Finds posted by eric on 7/10/2004 at 4:22:43 PM
I've found a few good finds at the local dump recycling center. found a motobecane grand jubile, mostly complete in perfect shape to become a fixed gear commuter.

also found a complete ruegger spezial (swiss made lugged frame, chrome fork) with a mix of shimano 600 arabesque and DA components.

last 'big find' was a miyata one hundred in excellent condition.

all these bikes were $5 each. it's been enough to keep me going back regularly to see what other 'treasures' await. i've seen some other 'good' bikes but they would be completely rusted out. nothing salvagable.

AGE / VALUE:   Fuji Espree posted by: Ray on 7/5/2004 at 4:03:37 AM
Hi, I found a Fuji Espree at the town dump. Is it worth picking up, or should I leave it there? It is not in that bad of shape.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Fuji Espree posted by Gralyn on 7/5/2004 at 12:30:50 PM
I'm not sure where in the line-up the Espree was - but hey, Rescue it!

WANTED:   Vittoria slotted cleats posted by: Maurice on 7/4/2004 at 10:14:48 PM
Looking for the mid'80's black plastic resin slotted cleats for the Vittoria leather upper shoes (with composite soles), the slotted cleats are fitted with two screws about 3 inches apart North/South - Thanks

AGE / VALUE:   QuickChainger posted by: RC on 7/2/2004 at 8:55:28 PM
Has anyone tried out these QuickChaingers?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   QuickChainger posted by paul viner on 7/6/2004 at 9:18:02 AM
have had one on my bike for years .they are the greatest invention known to cyclists.check out a good mates web site to see an example.www.llewellynbikes.com

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frame weight FYI posted by: Robert on 7/2/2004 at 2:23:20 PM
After considering the Schwinn chro-mo frame question below I decided to do a little weight comparison. I used my bathroom scale so that is the reason for the approx weights listed.
Schwinn Varsity frame stripped except for headbadge and kickstand. Just a hair over 8 lbs.
Schwinn Travelleror Tourist (too lazy to go look again) lugged frame listed as "Schwinnlite" tubing or some such . 23" Not chrom-mo still has BB cups . 6 3/4 lbs
Centurion 25" frame , Stripped except for one coat of fresh primer and BB cups. Dead on 5 lbs.
Not much difference ,by the numbers, but when you pick them up and compare , it is very dramatic.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frame weight FYI posted by Dick on 7/2/2004 at 7:09:49 PM
If you remove what is possibly the best kickstand ever made (you'll have to saw it off) I think you'll find the weight a little more competitve.

   :   Frame weight FYI posted by John E on 7/2/2004 at 10:02:02 PM
You do not have to saw off the Varsity kickstand to remove it. If I recall correctly, it is secured with a pin you can pull with a ViseGrip plier or similar tool.

   RE:: Frame weight FYI posted by Stacey on 7/3/2004 at 10:59:08 AM
Detailed instructions for PROPER kickstand removal can be found at http://www.bunchobikes.com/repair2.htm

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Frame weight FYI posted by sam on 7/3/2004 at 8:17:59 PM
I think Dick was talking about the compleat kick stand unit.The housing is welded to the frame.---sam

MISC:   Club bike advice? posted by: Elvis on 7/2/2004 at 12:47:04 AM
Hey all. Worked more on my "club bike" 3 speed. I want to know, if anyone else has one do you put grip tape or use the old-school rubber grips ?

   RE:MISC:   Club bike advice? posted by Ward on 7/2/2004 at 1:00:08 PM
I have a 1951 Lento sports and was lucky enough to find a leather kit that I sewed on. It looks and feels great. I tried to find the rubber "sleeves" that were origional to the bike, but not an easy find.I would go with cloth tape and hemp rope to finish the ends, and then 2 coats of clear shellac. Hope this helps.

   RE:MISC:   Club bike advice? posted by Ward on 7/2/2004 at 1:02:31 PM
I have a 1951 Lenton sports and was lucky enough to find a leather kit that I sewed on. It looks and feels great. I tried to find the rubber "sleeves" that were origional to the bike, but not an easy find.I would go with cloth tape and hemp rope to finish the ends, and then 2 coats of clear shellac. Hope this helps.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Club bike advice? posted by Elvis on 7/2/2004 at 2:04:11 PM
Thanks. I might have a time finding cloth, but it sounds great....

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Club bike advice? posted by P.C. Kohler on 7/2/2004 at 7:01:41 PM
If you want to be true to "period", grips. Absolutely. Most club bikes used "sleeve grips" which went up only as far as the brake handles. Someone has reproduced the old thick, chunky "Shockstop" grips in the UK which are excellent and very "period" looking. Or, if you must, white cloth bar tape, preferably shellaced. But again only up to the brake hoods. Full taping of bars is a continental "thing". I don't recall any British club bikes of the period using leather bar wrap.

I have an original pair of NOS Raleigh sleeve grips which I was going to get reproduced, but given the dismal sales of my Raleigh roadster grips, I will leave this to others.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Club bike advice? posted by Edward in Vancouver on 7/5/2004 at 1:12:43 AM
For the longest time I had real leather "sleeves" on my Sekine 10 spd as a teenager, because there was this guy in Grade 12 who had immitation ones on his Motobecane and swore they were real. Anyways what I did was trot off to the Canadian Tire (Kinda like the the U.S. Western Auto) and got plain, smooth, black leather steering wheel covers. They work quite well, but for best results, lay a strip of double sided tape on the bars so the leather won't slide off. Lacing up is a drag, but goes easier with a small crochet hook.
I did this for a long time, until I finally gave in to my biking buddies "comments" and got garish coloured bar tape.

P.S.: P.C. I'd love to take you up on the grips, but my money options are Postal Money order, private cheque, or plain hard cash...

AGE / VALUE:   where was my raleigh made?! posted by: andrew on 7/1/2004 at 9:23:38 PM
I am riding a 77' raleigh grand prix that was made in the nottingham factory. I recently aquired a 76' of the same model and the badge has no location, but solid horizontal brass in place of "nottingham england". was this even made in england?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   where was my raleigh made?! posted by Ward on 7/2/2004 at 1:04:29 PM
Probably made in Holland by Gazelle, under license from Raleigh.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   where was my raleigh made?! posted by Ward on 7/2/2004 at 1:07:17 PM
Probably made in Holland by Gazelle, under license from Raleigh.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   My first Trek posted by: Gralyn on 7/1/2004 at 5:48:52 PM
I picked up my first Trek today.
I made a stop by a favorite thrift store - one that has traditionally been a good source for VLW's. But, over the past several weeks - it's been really dry. There are lots of bikes - just not VLW's. There are even some old early version mountain bikes. Well, I scanned across the bikes - and didn't see anything different.....just the same ones that were there the last time I looked. I went and looked at some other stuff....didn't find anything else either. So, I was on my way out....I went by the bikes.....and something to the left just caught my eye. Then, I saw some drop bars.....so I went over to investigate. It was a Trek. It looked like a nice bike (actually it was very, very dirty, flat tires, bar tape un-raveled, brake levers pushed over out of position, etc. But it doesn't look scratched, or damaged, or oxidized in any way. But I pick it up.....Very light! I grab it up. About $13 and I'm on my way. It's a 400 model. Looking on a website at some brochures......I think maybe it's a 400 racing model from 1989. It has Matrix wheels, and 7-speed rear. It seems some of the earlier (1986, 1987, etc) had 6-speed rear. Anyway, it matched the 1989 400 racing model description best I could tell.

   RE:  My first Trek posted by NICE! on 7/2/2004 at 12:17:27 AM

I had a Trek from 1978 that I loved dearly, though it was too tall for me. I rode it for several years and it was a bveautiful bike. All Campy parts except for the bar end shifters; i think they were Suntour.
Yours sounds awesome, and the grip tape, etc. could usually do with replacing anyway, especially if its cloth or cork, as they are usually soiled beyond repair on most bikes I pick up... if the rims and frame are good you got a steal!

P.S., there is a vintage trek bicycle site that has helpful pictures and descriptions for comparison if you want more detailed info, but i can't recall the url. An internet search on "vintage road bikes" always brings up the link to it, however.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   My first Trek posted by Bryant on 7/2/2004 at 12:12:56 PM
Great Find!! I always feel like I hit gold whenever I find a Trek. I've picked up several Trek's at my local Thrift store through the years. A nice 520 that I sold, a 1987 Trek 560 that I still have but don't ride much, and a very nice 1982 Trek 614 that I made into my commuter bike. I fixed up the 614 with a Nitto Technomic stem to raise up the H-Bars, put bar cons on it, and a Brooks B-17 saddle. Everything else is stock. Beautiful ride. I really like the 28-45-50 half step setup, and the Cyclone Mk II derailleurs are very smooth. Considering I paid about $20 for the bike, and another $100 in modifications, it is my best bike for the buck.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   My first Trek posted by Gralyn on 7/3/2004 at 2:40:57 AM
I looked at the bike again - and looked at the brochures. Yep, it's an '89 400 racing model.

Anyone know what this model would have sold for new? Mine is just like the one in the brochure - the blue one...all the way down to the tires. Still has the original tires. It's really dirty - but I think it's going to clean up nicely and make a really nice ride.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   what model of schwinn?? posted by: paul on 7/1/2004 at 4:20:11 PM
i have a schwinn serial number J249670 found it at the frame where you attach the rear tires. can any one confirm this. i think its a 60s co-ed schwinn. does the serial numbers indicate that model?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   what model of schwinn?? posted by Eric Amlie on 7/1/2004 at 5:11:56 PM
The s/n will only date the bike. It will not tell you the model. Looks like your bike(the frame anyway) was made in September of 1962.