VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Silver Stella posted by: Loren on 11/30/2005 at 6:02:00 AM
I bought a silver Stella (used) in 1974 and have owned it ever since. I am interested in finding out more about the brand and model and would appreciate guidance and perspectives.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Silver Stella posted by jack on 11/30/2005 at 8:04:05 AM
Loren, I have also have a Stella and also see them from time to time. So while not "rare", they aren't as commom as Peugeot, Motobecane and Gitane. Typically french in style and ride of the era and models ran from low-end commuters to nice with chrome lugs and nice paint-jobs. There's a website with a 70's web search or Cycles de Oro or Sheldon Brown.

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Silver Stella posted by Gralyn on 11/30/2005 at 5:29:11 PM
I've heard of Stella's.......and seen pictures....but I've never seen one in all my bike searching.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Silver Stella posted by jack on 12/1/2005 at 8:41:06 AM
I've seen 2 or 3 just this year here in NCal. One a nice mixte with Tipo HF hubs (almost bought her just for the wheels) and another low-end I turned down for $40. I have a hi-end made of Columbus, chrome socks and lugs, wrap-'round seatstays and full NR...nice bike. Just like most bikes of the boom era, the earlier ones were nicer than later ones as they cut corners to increase production.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Bar wrap and bar-end shifters posted by: Gralyn on 11/30/2005 at 2:11:51 AM
I have this cloth, or nylon covered foam bar wrap on a set of bars that also have the bar-end shifters. They have brake levers with gum hoods (non-aero).

I was wondering about this covered foam bar goes along the top of the bars to the brake lever. Then another piece goes from the brake lever to the bar-end. Is it possible to get this stuff off without destroying it?

I was thinking about using these bars and stem - in conjunction with the bar-end shifters - and some aero brake levers. So, I thought I might remove that bar wrap - but it looks to be in really good shape - so I didn't want to ruin it. If anyone knows of a techniqe for removing this stuff without damaging it - please let me know.

Of course, I could just take the bar-end shifters and use them as I said - but with another set of bars. I have plenty of bars and plenty of stems with the same dimensions. Maybe I will do that.

So, does anyone have bar-end shifters in conjunction with aero levers? I was thinking I could route the brake cable and the shifter cables under the bar tape.....or maybe I should just go for the older classic look with non-aero levers?

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Bar wrap and bar-end shifters posted by Warren on 11/30/2005 at 3:16:30 AM
Bar tape is meant to be replaced, except stitched leather randonneur setups. Once you get past that, slr levers with barcons rule for urban riding!

Bar tape shouldn't split into two at the lever...bad wrap job. I prefer to wrap from the barend to the middle in one piece. This allows you to unwrap to the levers if you wish to make an adjustment without disturbing the barcons.


   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Bar wrap and bar-end shifters posted by Ken on 11/30/2005 at 3:50:49 PM
I used to be a big fan of foam. The high end stuff the LBS used to carry was nothing at all like the Xmart stuff, but it was much more trouble to install and remove. Start a long skinny screwdriver under it and spray in some suds (409 or the like). Keep working it in, moving the screwdriver around, and eventually you'll get it off. Save it for another project. Then do like Warren says- modern bar tape gives way more cushioning than the old fashioned kind. Tape all the cables, aero and barcon, in place with electrical tape before wrapping. You can also make little ovals out of an old inner tube for extra cush under the tape wherever you need it. Should be a great setup.

   RE:RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Bar wrap and bar-end shifters posted by Gralyn on 11/30/2005 at 5:39:26 PM
Yes, this stuff is not bar "tape". And, it's not that black, thick foam rubber grip you used to see back in the early to mid 80's. This stuff is not as thick, and the outside is a cloth, or nylon covering - stitched.

I always tape the cables in-place before I put the bar tape on - when I'm doing the aero brakes. I think I will put something additional on the bars for extra cushioning before putting the tape on. (I haven't tried that before - but have thought about it.

Now, if I can just decide which bike to try the bar-end shifters on. The taller Azuki? Maybe the old Viscount Aerospace?

    Bar wrap and bar-end shifters posted by John E on 12/1/2005 at 3:09:34 PM
First, I really the 1970s SunTour ratchet barcons I put on my UO-8, which still has traditional non-aero Weinmann/Diacompe brake handles, which fit my hands much better than the original Mafacs. I plan to convert the PKN-10 to SunTour barcons, but I am stymied without a downtube cable housing stop clamp. Since I tape the barcon cables under the bottom flat part of the drops and let them emerge straight forward under and inside of the brake handles, they will not interfere in any way with aero cabling and taping for the brakes. (I have Shimano aero brake handles on the PKN-10.) I'll let you know how it works, but I anticipate no problems whatsoever.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   What model peugeot posted by: amit on 11/30/2005 at 12:56:34 AM
i just bought a used old peugeot and cant figure out what model it is.
the serial number is b81238403 which makes it an 1988 i think.
it is reynolds 531 and has the chrome fork and rear triangle area near the cassette.
it says 'made in france' on it and also says 'hand brazed'.

i have looked through the catalogues at classic rendevous and dont see it.

the following link still has picks unless hte seller took em down.

any help would be appreciated.


   What model peugeot posted by John E on 12/1/2005 at 3:13:32 PM
Can you post another picture (Craigslist link is dead)? If the "531" is printed diagonally, you do indeed have a PX-10. I think the half-chrome rear triangle makes that pretty certain, anyway. I am definitely thinking 1978, rather than 1988, but the decal work and original components, if still present, will tell.

   RE:What model peugeot posted by JONathan on 12/2/2005 at 9:37:41 AM
Try this one:

I find it useful for some info on my older Peugeots, like the '53 P-60, with cantilever brakes!

AGE / VALUE:Kapow in Winter... posted by: Randy on 11/29/2005 at 9:44:54 PM
Wow! I almost hit a fellow(at least I think it was a fellow considering the parka, hood and all) riding what looked to be an early seventies Mercier.

Road conditions were terrible, the wind was considerable and I was sliding, out of control, in my 4x4, be it ever so slowly, toward the intersection. I was horrified to watch, in real and imagined slow motion, as an early seventies Mercier approached, passed uncomfortably close in front on my Ranger and managed to continue on down very slippery road, impeding traffic as he did so.

I like to ride in winter conditions, as long as the emphasis is not on winter(-20F, forget it with glare ice on the roads). However, there is a much greater risk in doing so and today's experience helped point that out to me. No matter how safe I intend to ride, an accident, an error in judgment, on the part of a motorist and I'm toast. Motorists, in general, are not expecting a bicyclist to be about in such inclement road and weather conditions. As a bicyclist, I need to be aware of that.

As a motorist, I need to parctice patience and care with fools who don't have the sense to avoid competiting with automobiles on a icy road surface. Anything could happen! I wonder if the guy ever made it? He was heading towards a very busy street.

For what it is worth, I live in a community of about 120,000 and we have seen two bicyclists killed by motorists in the last couple of years.
Anyway, for those who like to ride all year round in the north. Keep your wits about you.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:Campy crank repair posted by: Dick in L.A. on 11/29/2005 at 2:45:32 AM
It's time for me to begin the reassembly of my 1971 Schwinn Paramount. I've cleaned, derusted, polished and and refurbished every part as far as I can go without repaint or rechrome. I have one last task. When I was removing the right pedal from the crank, it stripped the threads from the crank. This makes the right side crank trash. Unless I install a Helicoil thread insert. Has anyone here tried this?
Dick in L.A.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Campy crank repair posted by sam on 11/29/2005 at 5:14:15 PM
Could it be re-taped for french tread pedals?Would this even work??--sam

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Campy crank repair posted by jack on 11/30/2005 at 8:18:09 AM
I wouldn't worry about it. If you got the arm off, reinstall and ride as it will be a long time before it needs servicing. In the meantime, keep your eyes peeled for a replacement...they pop-up all the time on ebay if its std 170 or 172.5. If you didn't get it off, make two wedges (hardwood is best) and drive off or use puller if you can find one that fits. I prefer the wood wedges as they don't damage the metal. And yes, you could re-tap to T-A or Stronglight (they are slightly larger in diam) but good luck in finding that tap!, now the Campy cap is too small!

   RE:RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Campy crank repair posted by jack on 11/30/2005 at 8:28:23 AM
Whoopsee! Dick, you meant pedal thread? Yeah, I'd probably try a helicoil as the 9/16" threads are common (isn't that same as std sparkplugs?...I'll have to check into that) The french pedal threads are smaller than the english 9/16 so that won't work. So, I vote for heli or replace arm. Wait a second...isn't the left arm left-hand thread? Looks like replacement is only option unless they have left-hand heli (plus the left-hand tap too!).