|Hi all, I am trying to get additional info on the "limited edition" Raleigh Professional from 1970/71... what was limited about it that year? Were the production numbers only 500; was it the color scheme? The component mix? I can't quite get why they would market a limited edition when they were very popular bikes (albeit expensive). Anyway, I tried to attach a link to a pic, I hope it works. I will be building this one up. (I will be the guy biding on all the "scratched" campy stuff on ebay). If anyone has any insight or any parts to sell please post or write. Also, I found a very old (1998 I think) thread from this very discussion area that indicated this was one of the most desireable and valuable Raleigh bikes of the era. Does that still ring true? Thanks|
| Try RetroRaleighs: http://retroraleighs.com/professional.html|
There were two models back then, the International and the International mkII Limited Edition The mkII Limited had a more complete array of Campagnolo Record components, including brakes, and the frame had different lugwork.
| Can anyone shed light on Shimano "333" models? As mentioned before, the 3-speed hubs are usually marked 333 and other things as well. I have some Campy-clone hubs so marked. Was everything Shimano "333" at one time? |
| In the early 1970s, most Shimano hubs, derailleurs, etc. bore the "333" label. Higher-end models with other designations, such as Dura-Ace, gradually came in. In contrast, SunTour freewheels were labeled "888."|
| Check out Ebay item 6586845052. Pretty nice setup but pricey. Comments?|
| A lovely modern interpretation of a club bike but he won't get his money back out of it, especially with the custom Imron paint and decals. I'd keep it rather than take a bath on it.|
| I wish they had posted a photo of the right rear dropout, to show whether they had hacked off the derailleur tab, one of my pet peeves with certain members of the fixie, SS, and 3-speed conversion crowd. My own philosophy is swap all the parts you want, but never do any irreversible damage to a frame.|
| I am in search of a Raleigh Clubman, can anyone out there help me or send me in the right direction?|
| OK, I just bought a nifty 70's era Western Flyer 3-speed. (See previous posting.) Frame was made by Murray in Tennesee. Did Murray make 3-speed hubs? Hub has plastic oil plug, a US patent #, and what look kind of like 3 stylized "3"'s on it. Shift trigger bears a Shimano imprint. Hub appears to be working perfectly. Anybody know who made the hub and if the reliability record of such hubs is good? |
| If I'm not mistaken, the 333 is a Shimano product.|
| That "333" is a Shimano model (forerunner of Nexus). What interests me is your description of an oiler plug. I have yet to run across one on a Shimano. Shimano hubs have bellcranks where the shift cable enters the axle end ... left side for coaster brake version and right side for rim brake.|
Btw: bikes with this setup are more appropriately obsessed over in the English roadster forum.
| Thanks for the info on the hub guys. |
Also, sorry for obsessing in the wrong forum. I am new to this website, and am still trying to figure out what is really meant by "English" 3-speed. Happy riding to you both!
| Just bought a 70's-era men's Western Flyer 3-Speed for $20 at 2nd hand store. All it needs is new tire/tube in front, and a screw for the lower portion of rear fender. Paint mostly good, a few knicks, no dents in fender. Tiny specs of surface rust on some of the chrome, but mostly very good. Looks like a Shimano Hub. Works perfect. I know people say the S/A hubs are the cat's meow, but aren't Shimano gears good too? What kind of oil do you put in the hub to keep them lubricated? |
Also, is there any kind of cult following for Western Flyers?
| The Shimano hubs are just as good as SA. They re-engage in fewer degrees of rotation after coasting ... a big plus to my mind. |
Uhh ... how do you propose to add the oil you were inquiring about? My Shimano hubs offer no provision for this maintenance.
| I've got about 20 or so used Shimano 3.3.3. hubs here, all have the plastic oil port, but I have seen a few without, but I believe they may have been later models? These were reliable hubs, but are not as easy to repair as an S.A. hub. They do seem to feel a bit more refined and tend to shift easier than the S.A. hubs. |
As far as lube, S.A. hubs call for a 20 weight non detergent oil, I would say it would be safe to use the same on the Shimano hub as well. Any oil is better than no oil. Just add a few drops or so, don't over oil, you'll have a leaky mess if you do. The S.A. hubs only call for about a table spoon of oil total.
You might want to try the Engish Roadster forum, posibly someone there may have an oil specification for the Shimano 3.3.3.