| I have recently inherited a 1980 Chrome Voyageur 11.8. I was hoping someone could give me some suggestions in finding the "Voyageur 11.8" top tube decals. I found the generic "Schwinn" downtube decals Ebay.|
I would alsp appreciate suggestions on how to safely remove the old decals without damaging the frame.
| I had one of these once--nice rider. Search the older Schwinn shops albeit 20+ year old bike shops that were 'Authorized Schwinn Dealers'. They typically have boxes of old decal sets floating around that are left over from that era. I have had great luck just asking the owners straight up. One time that I remember, I asked for old Continental decals and the store owner reached down under the cash register and pulled out an entire box of NOS decal sets that he was thinking of throwing away soon...good timing on my part. On those old decal fragments for your Voyageur, just buff them off with 0000 steel wool. |
| Haven't actually tried it myself yet, but a solution of 1/3 ammonia & 2/3 water on a rag laid over the decal is supposed to loosen it up so that it can be easily removed.|
| Just an update on my Raleigh Grand Prix project. I have 3....a red one, a white one, and a blue one. I think they are all from 1974. The white one is finished - put back original. The red one is in process - of being re-build and put back original. The blue one - I am building up with alloy components.|
OK, so I installed an alloy stem and bars.....then some brake levers.....then some side-pull brakes. But, the brakes calipers wouldn't reach.....so I had to go to center pull brakes.....but they wouldn't reach either....so I had to go with the original Weinmann side-pulls....which are oxidized. So, now I have to clean them up - which is going to be an ordeal. I thought I would install an alloy seat post.....but I could not find one to fit.....I tried all I had.....then eventually had to go with the original steel post. I went to install a cotterless bottom bracket and alloy crankset - but I could not get the bottom cup to thread in far enough. Finally, I ended up having to use the original cup....along with a more modern spindle. Then I put on the alloy crankset without any problems. I didn't have any trouble with the ders. Well, it's not working out exactly as I planned - but I have managed to reduce the weight.
| You can have the bottom bracket threads chased. In the Bad Old Days, BB cups did not have as many threads, and BBs were not threaded as deeply as today.|
You can buy or build an offset or drop bolt system for your brake calipers, to accommodate shorter-reach brakes. Many English bikes of your vintage took a 750-length Weinmann centerpull in back and a 610 in front, but you may need something even longer, particularly if going to 700C rims instead of 27", which adds 4mm to your brake reach requirement.
| That's what I found about the bottom bracket - that the cups didn't have as many threads - and the thread wasn't very deep inside the BB tube. I was able to use the original cup, though - and it seems to be working fine. I guess I'll just use the original brake calipers - rather than try to go to any lengths or expense.|
| Returned home from a fellow cycle enthusiast's garage on Saturday...with four lightweights in the back of the truck!|
It's getting a mite late over here, so I'll leave you fellows with a little summary of what I got:
Nishiki Prestiege frame, fork and rims w/nice Suntour components - 24 or 25" frame!
Raleigh Technium aluminum frame - very similar to the Nishiki, a half inch taller believe it or not. No fork, just the frame.
Women's Fuji SJ-10 - 26 & 1-1/4" wheels, very small frame, but a nice array of period Orient components on it.
Vista Enquirer...and we all thought the Schwinn Varsity was heavy. One big ball of rust, but with decent rims. Curiously enough, the fork is genuine Schwinn, and the frame looks like it came from Westfield Manufacturing. To further confuse things, it sports it's original paint on both the fork and frame.
Well, tommrow I'll have some photos in and some more info on these bikes - take care for now.
| Did you get the stuff for free? Or did you have to pay him for it? I love getting free stuff! Some day I will hook up with someone who has bike stuff - or an old bike or two - and they will give it to me. At least that's how the fantasy goes.|
| Well, in fact, they were given to me - not that that was the point - in fact, when it comes to lightweights and English roadsters, I prefer picking them directly off of trash piles. (oddly enough, I prefer purchasing heavyweights).|
Incedentally, the fellow I got them from is a customizer - perhaps you have heard of him: Keith Moss...he hadn't gotten around to chopping these four up ;-)
I haven't decided what I will ultimately do with them though - the Nishiki and the Technium especially, as it's nearly impossible for me to fit either.
Unfortunatly, I had to hacksaw the Nitto stem and discard the original fork of the Fuji to install a new, long-reach Cinelli stem - looks nice though.
As for the Vista...who knows. I looked the whole frame over this evening and didn't see anything common to Schwinn on it except for that blasted fork.
I do have a bit of very good news though - thanks to an extra Weinmann front rim from Keith, I now have the '71 Varsity rideable, in all it's pitiful rusted glory.
Attached a pic below. Have to get a new bar & stem along with some Kool Orange bar tape, and I might also get a decent chainwheel just so it doesn't appear like a complete rustbucket.
Take care, and enjoy the pics...
| Regarding your Vista. I believe the ashtabula style fork on your Vista is completely original. There used to be a hardware store in my hometown that sold Vistas for several years and they had the copycat Schwinn style fork. Can someone tell me if the bikes, forks or any other parts were in fact made by Schwinn or did Vista simply copy the parts?|
| Hi, not sure which forum to post this one on....?|
I have just bought what I was told was a South African military issue (WWII) BSA Aquarius. It has a perished sprung leather seat, block-pedals and cable brakes. It has a lovely bell mounted on the handlebars with an saint christopher design on it (encircled by the following lettering ASPICE CHRISTOPHORUM ET TUTUS VIAM CARPE). It also still has the headbadge intact. The bike is predominantly black with dark red mudguards, BUT it also has a 3-speed Suntour hub (found this info on the net: Sturmey Archer made 3-speed AW hubs with a SunTour logo on the shell for Maeda in the 1970s. The Sturmey Archer manufacture is not mentioned in either company histories.Frank Berto August 26, 1998 http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/page35.htm). This makes me conclude that the hub and gears were fitted years later...
Can anyone tell me more about this bike and or the hub? I will be posting pics on my website http://www.oldbikes.741.com soon (within 36 hours from now!). Oh, and once it is polished and fixed up, it will be up for grabs :-)
| We have this bike from my inlaws it is a Schwinn Corvette serial no.E457184. I am trying to find out if this is original or not. It has peddle brakes and is a single speed I beleave and no tank. Any help would be great on the value to. Thanks Doug|
| Doug, the Corvette is classed as a middleweight; you should post to that forum. Meanwhile, Corvettes had no tank and 1 or 2 speed coaster brakes were original options, as well as the 3-speed/hand brake option. here's a catalog page (thanks to Eric A):|
If you want more help determining whether your equipment is original, take some pictures. You can email me if you want.
| I have a Schwinn Corvette from 1963 that has what I call 'centerhump' lightweight wheels w/ Bendix redband coaster brake wrapped in Striaght Side Sport touring tires (26x1 3/8). I've seen pre-'61 Corvettes with tanks on them as well as front rack carriers (mine was missing as evidence from the bracket still intact). |