AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental posted by: Flavio Figliola on 7/8/2005 at 8:58:15 PM
Yes i have a blue schwinn continental with serial # BL518531 all original and complete, wondering what value could be.Flavio

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental posted by Bryant on 7/9/2005 at 11:59:55 AM
If it fits and you enjoy riding it it is priceless. Otherwise anywhere between 5 and 50 dollars on a good day. Enjoy!!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn Continental posted by Rod on 7/13/2005 at 6:58:09 PM
In case you were also wondering the month/year of your Continental, it was made in February 1975.

VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Ever Buy Chrome Plating? posted by: Larry Fulwider on 7/7/2005 at 4:01:33 PM
Gang --

Over on the Restoration Page of this site, there was only one note about chroming as part of restoration. There were no responses!

CyclArt does chroming as part of a restoration, but they want about $1,000,000 per bike. Caswell offers a cheap "small parts" chromer (electroplate) for $31.00. OK for small brake parts maybe, but doesn't seem practical for a chainstay or fork. Caswell also offers a complete CX chrome system for $734, (requires 1 amp per square inch), so I assume I would also need a rectifier, maybe $300 additional, for items like chainstays and forks. I was tempted to go that route when my wife explained to me that spending $1000 to chrome a couple of $200 bikes was a very, very bad idea. I love my wife more than the bikes!

Electroless is intriguing. I have no knowledge of durability or quality.

Hot rodders have directed me to a couple of sources. Nearest tanks are all over 200 miles away, and I can't get anyone to return an e-mail or answer a telephone message.

Any advice, or should I settle for chrome paint? If three of you say you need chroming, maybe I'll spend the $1000 and charge you $300 each. Looks like it would be a great deal for you!

Larry Fulwider

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Ever Buy Chrome Plating? posted by jack on 7/8/2005 at 1:42:02 AM
I wouldn't recommend rechroming for a number of reasons. First, its very hard on the environment, not to mention toxic to platers. Second, its very corrosive to underlying parts and seldom comes out the way it used to unless...Third, as you found out, its very expensive. Ever wonder why you see very few chromed bits nowadays?

On a similar subject, I used a product called "Bare-Metal" from the hobby store. Its thin Al/Chrome foil thats backed with adhesive. I used it to replace/re-produce the chrome bands on the seatube of Raleighs. Easy to work with and came out ok but not as shiny as original. Price $6.50 for 4"x10.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Ever Buy Chrome Plating? posted by scott on 7/8/2005 at 3:02:28 AM
Hi we had a spray on chrome system at work and it never opperated right everything came out tinted yellowish or blueish and the durability of the finished product stunk.I dont know if the quality of these systems has improved or not but I would advise you to see samples of the work up close and in person if you are shelling out big dollars for a set up.
Bare metal foil is an AWESOME product for a small area (a touchup on something or a pinstripe) but it will nick and tear if you put it on any moving part or something that is touched a lot
Have you looked at motorcycle shops for chrome plating leads?
If all alse fails you might think about polishing the parts which can be done yourself but can be time consuming
sorry for my longwindedness

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Ever Buy Chrome Plating? posted by sam on 7/8/2005 at 3:40:59 AM
I had the fork chromed on a 1952 Claud Butler cost $75. I wanted the rear triangle chromed but the chromer said he would have to do the entire frame ---over $200.I settled for the fork,painted the frame.In the CB catalog the back listed a similar bike so at least I was still as it might have come---sam

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Ever Buy Chrome Plating? posted by Larry Fulwider on 7/8/2005 at 12:56:54 PM
Thanks, Jack, Scott, and Sam --

Never heard of "Bare-Metal" foil! Sounds like it would work great for 5 inches of a chainstay or seat stay with a constant taper. Clear coating should dramatically improve durability. Obviously, it wouldn't work on complex curves, like a front fork or lugs.

I'll do an experiment on one stay and see how it works.

Larry Fulwider

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Ever Buy Chrome Plating? posted by Michael Saladee on 7/9/2005 at 2:43:51 AM
There is no replacement for factory crome.Can anyone tell me what (World Class)is? Schwinn Racer Year 64.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS: Ever Buy Chrome Plating? posted by David Kirk on 7/10/2005 at 3:41:22 PM
I used to get a lot of car parts chromed. It was expensive, but it's much more expensive now. Chromers generate a lot of toxic waste and it's expensive for them to dispose of it. A lot of them have gone out of business. It's more expensive to have a part chromed if it was previously plated. Removing old chrome is very labor intensive. Chrome is eventually going to rust, no matter what you do. I'll never forget the day I found rust on a '56 Ford pickup grill I had spent a week's pay to have chromed.

    Ever Buy Chrome Plating? posted by John E on 7/13/2005 at 6:11:09 PM
I BRIEFLY considered chroming the stays, forks, and head lugs on my Capo, but Jim Cunningham quickly talked me out of it. He didn't have any trouble at all convincing me to go with a two-tone (historically very defensible, by the way) paint job instead. I live about a km downwind of the Pacific Ocean, and chrome is the first thing to go bad. Fortunately, the Capo's head badge is evidently nickel-plated instead, and it has stood the test of time.

   RE:VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS:   Ever Buy Chrome Plating? posted by Tracy McBride on 7/13/2005 at 11:14:49 PM
My company does chrome plating. The good stuff is Hexavelant. It is the original chrome. Manufacturing using the bright dip process are highly regulated but that is not the primary cost. Labor and or standard industry shop rates are simple to calculate. Ask a carpender or auto mechanic dealer what he will charge per hour. The cost to do a part is an estimate based on experience. Little experience means a higher cost or lesser result. The alternative chrome processes are perceived agreeable substitutes, but usually not as bright, typically more exensive and the chrome does not last as long. The little kits add up; your learning, your labor plus the kit.

AGE / VALUE:   YEAR? ANYONE? posted by: tina on 7/6/2005 at 8:09:17 PM
Does anyone know what year a JC Penney, Slight-Weight 5 Bicycle is from?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   YEAR? ANYONE? posted by Larry Fulwider on 7/7/2005 at 5:27:15 PM
Tina --

Realistically, you probably have a $5 or $10 "garage sale" bike, regardless of year. If the name "Slight Weight 5" means something of which I am not aware, someone else on this forum will jump right in and correct me.

I had couple of JC Penney "ten speeds" back in 1972, and the name was similar. I can't remember the exact name.

You might pose the same question on one of the other discussion forums on this site and get a more positive response!

Larry Fulwider


MISC:   Campy Crank puller? posted by: Bryant on 7/5/2005 at 10:32:42 AM
I'm fixing up a friend's bike and am having trouble with the cranks. They are steel cotterless cranks by Campagnola, and my regular crankpuller won't fit them. Is there a Campy crankpuller, what size is it and where besides ebay could I find one? Thanks

   RE:MISC: Campy Crank puller? posted by jack on 7/6/2005 at 2:09:29 AM
Hmmm, I know of only 2 other sizes, for TA and for Stronglight. Both are slightly larger than std Campy/Sugino. Also, I'd be careful as steel Campy cranks are kinda rare! In a pinch, I'd try a 2-arm puller after squirting some penetrating oil and using some wooden shims to prevent any marring.

   RE:MISC: Campy Crank puller? posted by WArren on 7/7/2005 at 12:40:11 AM
I hope that bike is special and not an everyday rider. I'm with Jack...those are tasty cranks. Be careful and get the campag puller.

   RE:MISC:   Campy Crank puller? posted by steve on 7/12/2005 at 2:58:17 PM
I have one of those cranks, and a Sakae puller works perfectly, same as a Campy.

AGE / VALUE:   motobecane cranks posted by: jason on 7/5/2005 at 6:12:48 AM
I am looking for a crankset for a early seventys(i'm guessing)Motobecane Grand Touring. The pedals on it say"Motobecane, and I just want to start looking for a spare set now so that I will have them if it gets for some reason ever wallowed. or should I put another set on it to prevent that? or should I start riding a newer bike that I can find parts that fit at any bike shop? I just like that way my old french frames feel, but am kind of tired of haveing to explain that I'm bying tires for a LeJune and not a 27 inch walmart bike.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: motobecane cranks posted by jack on 7/6/2005 at 2:23:03 AM
By crankset I assume you mean both crank and bottom bracket? The mid to upper-end motos commonly came with TA, Stronglight, and/or Nervar. Its best to use the same make crank spindle and crank though not essential in all cases. More problematic is replacement cups as I believe some motos used a combination of french and swiss. I'd check to see what I have and r&r while your at it. Then pick-up correct spares at your leisure.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   motobecane cranks posted by jason on 7/8/2005 at 12:18:47 AM
Yes I would like to replace the cups and spindle, there is very slight pitting on those I have. They are a left hand thread, the guys at the LBS and not so LBS's have not been hopefull. It is a left hand thread, and there is a plastic tube dust cover, I cannot remember what it said, I can look, but don't want to take apart again unless I have to. I am just getting into this stuff, looked like a cheap hobby so I don't know much bout nothin. I appreciate your help.

   motobecane bb posted by John E on 7/13/2005 at 6:16:04 PM
If your fixed cup is left-threaded, you have a Swiss-threaded BB, and your Moto may be from the mid to late 1970s. Swiss-threaded fixed cups are VERY rare. (Fortunately, Swiss and French adjustable cups are identical.) You may be able, with a small risk, to have it retapped to English/ISO, essentially changing the thread pitch from 25.4 per inch to 24 per inch. This would open up all kinds of options for BBs and cranksets, including modern sealed bearing units.