| I liked your site.|
| I finally managed to get my hands on a 1974 CCM Tour du Canada. The bicycle is full Campagnolo Nouvo Reocrd and purple in color. Unfortunately, the paint is poor and I cannot help but believe that CCM must have imported some of those famous Italian quick release decals. The decals are shot and I can't even see enough to get an idea of what I need to make. I would appreciate seeing a picture or two of a purple CCM TdC so that I can fabricate a set of my own decals.|
| Wish I found it first.|
I'm currently working on some CCM decals. I do have some pics for reference if you want.
Did you get this from out west Canada?
| just looked at a supercourse today, not sure the year, top o the line suntour, twelve speed, raliegh cotterless cranks, stem. it was a very nice bike when new, made in nottingham. real dryrotted hoods, seat, wheels.|
offhand, would anyone know what thread count the bottom bracket cup might be? did all ralieghs keep the 26 dpi thru the ninetys?
the guy wants a hundred for it, rear wheel has a flat spot and one brake is bent, paint is kind of rough. all I would want is the cups.
| Isn't it 26tpi on all the cottered crank/Nottingham-built models? And 24tpi for the Carlton models? It's not clear from your message, though, if you're interested in acquiring a frame or in acquiring 26tpi BB cups.|
| sorry, not very clear. yes I need some non pitted 26 tpi cups.|
Though all that raliegh logo'd alloy would look nice on my bike. (a record) so my question should have been,
will the cups from a 80's? twelve speed supercourse with cotterless cranks fit a Record frame.
not sure what a carlton model is. jason
| I'd guess the Super Course w/Japanese components will NOT have the 26 tpi cups you're after. Any wrecked Sports should have what you want, though. There are other options, too; see http://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html|
| well. I went ahead an bought it anyway, waved cash around and got it for a better price|
its nice, now I what a carlton frame is, paints a lot better than it looked in the attic,
I sure wish I was about six inches shorter. would love to ride it. oh well, it may fit my dad. jason
| Raleigh bought the Carlton company in the early 70s (?) and began selling the Carlton line (Pro, International, Competition, Super Course, etc) under the Raleigh name. Those bikes were built at Carlton's facility in Worksop and used standard threaded parts. They usually have a decal on the seat tube that sez "Carlton."|
| Jason is describing a Raleigh USA Supercourse (one word) model from at least '84-on. I believe it's blue with chrome rear triangle, fork and headtube?|
These were Japanese-made frames, and have nothing in common with the Nottingham machines. BB threading is 24 TPI. Don't even think of mixing Nottingham stuff on one of these.
P.S.: I'm looking for one of these framesets myself. If you decide you don't want it, Jason, I'm interested.
| Jason, I just re-read your post. If you want 26 TPI cups, you won't find it on this bike.|
However, I know I can get you two or three very nice 26 TPI Raleigh left-hand cups if you want, if you're willing to trade that frame for the cups + extra cash if nessesary. What size is the frame?
Contact me offlist at email@example.com.
| Actually, Raleigh acquired Carlton c. 1961 when production of Reynolds 531 frames ended at Nottingham and all lightweight production was shifted to Worksop.|
| I bought the recently-discussed "Campagnolo" bike on ebay (Listing is still there: item 7229477815) It seems like a high quality frame; lightweight, Campy dropouts and fork ends. There's not much to ID it though. Maybe someone has some ideas about what to check. Here's what I can tell: English threading, 68mm BB shell, serial number on BB shell, no braze-ons besides rear der cable stop, no eyelets, bevelled tops to the seat stays, long point Italian style lugs, sloping crown fork. |
| Firstly, someone please just give me the top 10 or 20 things to look for in a vintage racer cera 1980-early 90's(I don't want to "e-pay" $700 bucks for something that is phoney!!!!|
I'm ignorant about the game of shopping for a lovely, older racing road ride-I'm not new to riding however! Anyhow, I can't put together much of a criteria for what to be on the lookout for in a bike of my fancy: preferably high end racer, 20 or more years old (with lots of time and muscle left of course for aprox. 100 miles of exercise a week), high quality componentry, high quality framemanship, etc... I'm sick of the mantra floating in my head: "Raleigh Olympian -or- Schwinn Super Sport, I'll take either or...."-over and over and over. I want to find something more unique-say French/Italian?- and possibly not quite as expensive (Olympians in nice shape are $1,000 I think...). The problem is, for one I don't know the manufacturers that well, with the exception of the very obvious, and I can't differentiate between the phoney, mass marketed tourers and the more sought after, carefully crafted racers. Now, I may have to compromise in what I finally go with-my $$$ range will not exceed $700, if even this (perhaps this negates the success of my mission completely). I can settle with something of high personal aesthetic appeal and functionality over well, rarity and value-yes, thats absolutely fine! This isn't about "collecting" so much as it is about owning something more soul satisfying than an early 90's Raleigh Grand Prix.
| You can usually assume that most frames made of GOOD double butted tubing should make a nice bike. Specifically, Reynolds 531/753 (frame tubes, forks and stays), Columbus SL/SLX/Genius/EL/ELOS/SP (for heavier riders) as well as Ishwata O19/022, Tange #1/#2/Pro/Prestige, Champion #1 and even Champion #2. Vitus tubes for lightweight french riders. There are others but stick with this list to be safe. Don't deviate here.Don't buy Tange 3, Infinity, Columbus Tretubi etc. The frame and fork are the heart of any good bike. All other components can be added or swapped in. Make sure the frame fits. If you're looking for a classic italian or french bike, don't exclude the 70's. It's not just the bike boom era, it's also a golden age for many framebuilders. Steel frames from this period will do a thousand miles a week...if only we were capable.|
| If a 23" frame suits you and you are fond of Raleighs, try this Competition on for size. Nice and it may be in your budget.|
| That Raleigh Comp looks like it's in remarkably nice shape. I rode one for years until the frame broke (and it wasn't that bad with the cracked stay!) and it was a very nice bike. Not such a beaut as the one on ebay, though. Look at that beautiful crank! |
| Hard to go wrong on any of the bikes with those tube specs. The fit is the most critical element to consider. 100 mi/week is really not a lot of riding, so the 25 pound bikes, even touring frames, will do, I think. My choice is for the Japanese bikes, as they were well made and still cost less. I paid 3 times more for a Bianchi that does not run any better than my FUJI, or any of my higher-quality Japanese bikes. Note this is an individual preference based on my style of riding,which is low cadence, cruising. A real fast machine is my Bridgestone RB-1, but it wears me down...too much of a road-racer geometry and behavior. Again, the fit comes into play along with how fast you want to move. I like the craftmanship of my Team FUJI (1986) which about like my Bianchi "limited" (1988). The FUJI was one built in Japan and the Bianchi was made in Italy. Can't go wrong with a Bianchi, for European builds, if $$ are not an issue.|
|I have put together a modest web site that I hope helps people to identify vintage bicycles that are worth owning. I am retiring in three days and will be upgrading my site with hopes of offering information pertaining to painting, decal fabrication, simple but very useful tools that are easy to make, how to determine the vintage of lightweight bicycles and so on. The address is http://www.geocities.com/randyjawa/index.html Have a look and I do hope that it is of some small help.|
| There is NOTHING wrong with some mixed tubesets, such as Columbus Tre Tubi or Reynolds 531 "3 tubes renforces," both of which have top-of-the-line double butted moly steel main triangles. A Peugeot PR-10/PKN-10 will cost you alot less than a PX-10, with a few-ounce weight penalty, while delivering everything except the chromed rear stays and the snob appeal. Likewise for a Bianchi Campione d'Italia, which can be had for less than $300 on eBay.|
For real fun and pride of ownership, look for a lesser-known marque, e.g. Capo (http://capo.at).
| Your website is off to a good start, Randy. In the 1960s my high school pals and I used aluminum foil as chrome cleaner / rust remover, with pretty good results. |
I am currently in the middle of the second of two contrasting restorations, a 1959 Capo with updated/upgraded components and a 1960 Capo with almost everything factory original.
| I think that a $700 frame should be higher up the food chain and would likely have good frame and pedgiree. I shouldn't have included the Japanese tubes because they just don't command the prices. They, (and the Tretubi) just don't have the cache amongst collectors even if they can be superior. You know I love Japanese bikes. They rarely get $700 US. You can spend next to nothing, even on ebay to get a great performing bike. |
| OK Warren, I see your point. One does have to distinguish between the many bikes which ride well and the few which are truly collectible. Just within the last two years, full Reynolds 531 Capo framesets, particularly with the original Campag. Record hubs, Gran Sport derailleurs, Weinmann 999 brakes, and adjustable-reach Ambrosio stems, finally seem to have been "discovered," after decades of being sleeper bargains.|
| The best all-around values in class lightweight racing bikes now is the same as it was when these were new c. 1979-81:|
Raleigh Competition GS: possibly the best frame ever to come out of Worksop, England.. tight, racing geometry but still comfortable on long ride. Good components: Campagnolo Gran Sport and Weinmann brakes. Comes with clinchers on Weinmann rims... if you want a super racing bike, I'd swap for sew-up rims and ride tubulars. But you can't beat a Comp GS for value.
Peugeot PXN-10: the rival to the Comp GS in the late '70s early '80s and its equal. Simplex components and a super frameset. Again comes with clincher rims. My '81 has upgraded period correct Spidel-Simplex SLJ5500 derailleurs and Super Champion sew-up rims... just about the best riding and handling bike I own.