| I've just bought this frame on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=663009479), and wondered if anyone had info on the framebuilder? I've trawled the internet and can't find anything apart from an address for Denton's Cycles in Newcastle, but this seems to be a fairly recent shop (opened in the last 10-15 years). |
Thanks in advance
| A friend of mine had a Denton mountain bike frame that he bought new (he's from near there) and told me the ins and outs of their history but I can't remember offhand; I'll try to remember and ask him.|
| I have an Armstrong ladies 3 spped bike with light & front rack. Made in England. Where can I find information on it?|
| As always, the answer to "Where can I find info on..." is Sheldon's got it-|
He says it's a low-end Raleigh model. That's not a bad thing.
He tells how you can date your Sturmey-Archer hub.
My Armstrong, $39.95 new at Coast to Coast Stores in 1962, had a much better quality fit and finish than modern department store bikes do.
Three-speeds of that era are not in demand, however. If you want more detail, read Sheldon's introduction and then post your questions to the english roadster page.
| Well, I have a 1971 Atala Record 101 Professional that I picked up for twenty dollars while riding in the US last fall. I have rebuilt the entire bicycle, leaving tire replacement until last. I have dreaded the tubular installation experience and now I know why.|
What a gooey nasty toxic mess(I'm sure tubular installation skills improve with practice but I will never know). My question is, "Why would anyone want to bother?" If I were building a show bicycle, which I don't do, I suppose that I would go for the tubular tires to maintain the originality of the bicycle. But that would be the only reason.
Am I missing something here" Is the ride offered by tubular tires that great? Are they that much lighter(not that I would really care since I am a bit of a heavy weight myself)? What is so special?
Perhaps, in days gone by, the tubular did offer substantial advantages such as increased tire pressure(just a guess). However, today's clincher set-ups offer all the pressure that I will ever need.
What is the big deal? I took the Atala out for a ride and did not feel that the tires were anything special. True, I have never done an A-B test(ride a bike with tubulars then switch to a set of clinchers and ride it again). Perhaps experience will help me to appreciate the value(s). that said, as of this moment in time, I will never go to the trouble of gluing up a set of tubulars again.
| Randy, your guesses are correct IMO. Way back when, tubulars' advanges over clinchers were substantial...even better touring bikes came with them. Now, clinchers are much improved and their advantages outweigh clinchers for most except purists and retro-grouches. |
| However, don't kid yourself about their quality of ride. High end performance track riders will still ride on silk tubulars with 180 lbs of pressure. They just aren't practical or economical for most rides anymore.|
I converted my last set of tubs last year. Never going back.
| I believe that tires do make a tremendous difference in ride quality. I have quite a few bicycles and not nearly as much experience. I have, however, noticed that the tire's quality does have an effect on ride. Perhaps it takes a true master(i.e. a professional racer in a situation where fractions of a second do indeed count) to appreciate the quality imparted by tubulars.|
I consider the ride offered by a really cheap set of Kenda tires and then install a set of quality Michelain hoops and even a novice like myself can feel the difference. That said, I still can't see myself going through the hassle or expense of tubular tires. That said, I did enjoy my gentle jaunt on the CCM TdC this evening and it still has a set of tubular tires mounted...
| After having two sets of wheels for the Nishiki for 15 years, I gave up tubulars in the mid 1980s, because of the hassle and expense. I ride only good-quality clinchers (no Kenda cr@p), such as Continental Ultra 2000s on the Bianchi, Bontragers on the mountain bike, and Specialized Turbos with Armadillo technology on the 1959 Capo.|
I have an opportunity to try tubulars again, since they were original equipment on my 1960 Capo, but I am sure I will ride it alot more with clinchers, so I am still debating which way to go.
One thing I do like about tubulars is that I have always been able to obtain a more precise truing adjustment, with less lateral or vertical variation, on good tubular rims than on any clinchers.
| Tubulars give a constant radius, which gives confidence when cornering hard (no danger of falling off the edge of the tread). Try tape, it's not as messy - having said that, mine are glued on!|
| Had original tubulars on my Dangre bike...nice light Super Champion rims...but I held my breath on long rides...last month the inevitable happened 10 miles from home...glue separated...I now roll on Bontragers...feel much more confident on handling flats |
| I kept checking to see of something would turn up.....sure enough - I spot an old Schwinn Super Sport. Since I already have an old Sports Tourer - ordinarily, I would have passed on this one - but for the price, I just couldn't pass it up. I just never know about the pricing....there's no rhyme or reason to it. But anyway - the wheel set was really nice - considering it's age.....the condition, and lack of oxidation.....But the whole bike is in pretty good condition. Everything seems to be original - except for the tires. (a fairly new set....Specialized 27 X 1"). It's yellow, (or cool lemon?)...finish isn't too bad. Per the serial number: March, 1971. I believe the bar tape is even original. It has QR hubs front and rear, Brooks leather saddle, Weinmann brakes, randonneur alloy bars, pedals may be a mix of alloy and steel - with toe clips. It's a pretty nice bike....although it has ChroMo frame, and some alloy components....it still has a steel kick stand, and it has that one-piece steel crank set. It feels pretty heavy......especially when you compare it with my 1983 Schwinn Super Sport.....which weighs 22 lbs! |
Overall, a great addition to my collection!
| Congrats Gralyn on the SuperSport! I'd keep the wheels and good components and give away or toss the rest. Yes I know it was fillet-brazed by hand in the Paramount shop but it weighs a ton with that Ashtabula and rides like a deuce and a half. And you're gonna need room for the really good stuff thats coming. Now the Sports Tourer?...that's a keeper! |
| Nice find!|
1) Eliminate one pound of useless excess weight by pulling the kickstand.
2) Eliminate another two pounds of excess rotating weight by replacing the Ashtabula crank with a 3-piece aluminum crank, using an adaptor from Sheldon Brown / Harris Cyclery.
3) Replace the TwinStik gear levers with barcons.
4) Lose the pie plate spoke protector and the useless chainguard.
5) Replace the freewheel with a 6-speed ultra.
6) Remove the suicide brake extensions and install nice rubber hoods.
| I've been thinking about it......I could put it all original and have it as part of the collection.....but that is, if space will allow......or should I be saving the space for that future Paramount? I thought about maybe keeping the good parts.....building it up with some lesser parts - making it road worthy - and then selling it. I have so many decent bikes to ride - that I don't want to put any effort into trying to make it lighter - just original would be fine with me (just like the 40 lb Varsity I have)|
| Kickstands are useful. I can put my bikes anywhere and not have to lean them against walls or hang em high. The only weight to worry about is the moving parts. If anything, my losing 25 lbs due to a very physical job, was the best weight saving of all.|
I'm actually proud my Puegeot weighs 32 lbs. Want a real workout? Ride heavy!
| I'm with you Roy. The best weight savings are made at the|
waist line! I like a heavier bike myself and have a '73
Super Sport. I think its a great touring/commuter bike!
| I have the "kool lemon" Super Sport ('71) model. Nice, as-is with alloy rims for short commutes. The weight makes a difference for loaded touring where you get a 531 frame (or similar Ishiwata, etc.) that is exceptional strong and resilient for long hauls, where the caloric drain adds up to big numbers over a day's ride. Second, the lighter frames make for more exhilerating sport runs when I like to hammer down. Nothing compares to that quick take-off and rapid swing out of turns I get with the "RB-1" ('87) or "Team FUJI" ('86). I get busted down going fast and long on a light frame or slow and short on one of the tanks, like the "Super Sport". Take your pick. Since you already have a few to ride, I would keep the super sport as original. Just my 2. |
| I have a Schwinn Twinn Deluxe serial number BJ80068. I know I purchased it over twenty five years ago. Possibly more. It is in excellent condition. Nothing has ever been changed. The tire dimensions are 26x 1 3/8. Brake type side pull. Rear brake type coaster bralce,speed type 1 speed. Features origianl rear double baskets. I brought it into Cycle Craft here in Parsippany,New Jersey and it has caused a small riot of interest. I have no idea what this bike is worth. Can someone help me? I have tried to reach Sheldon Brown but can not.|
| I have a 1972 schwinn super sport in nice shape that I want to sell. Can anyone point me in the right direction on the east coast.|
| I might be interested. Is it original? Any pics?|
| I still have my lemon yellow Super Sport 1972. I can testify to its touring ability--I rode it to Colorado from Chicago in 8 days in 1972. I still love the bike, but went for a bike weighing 20 lbs.|
|I purchased a shwinn supersport 72 for 10.00. I know very little about how to repair a bike. It is in working condition but could use some work. I would like to replace the brakes, cables gears, etc. Actually all of the guts. The frame and rims are in great condition. I don't want to invest a lot of money. I'm going to try to stay under 150.00. Is that resonable?|
| I am working on my dad's 1967 Super Sport. Sometime in the '80s it had a three piece Shimano alloy crank put on, an Avocet saddle, but everything else seems orginal. |
I want it as my road bike, it ways 30lbs. Not sure if I can get more modern components on it or not...
| I just got this 72 SS, I really like it! I have a few lighter bikes but love this one! All I did was clean it up a bit and a few adjustments =) |
|Sorry, pics are wrong =(|
| I have a Schwinn Super Sport that I believe I bought in 1985. It in very good shape and all original. Is there any market for this bike. I would like to sell it.|
| I looked at a 72 schwinn super sport for sale lime green what are the differences between this bike and a continental of the same vintage? also did either bike change much from the sixties? please someone who knows please respond thank you marty|
| Which high end all chrome plated, no black background on the face, Suntour RD's were produced with cages long enough to slack chain for 32 tooth cogs and enough range to sweep across 8 speed freewheels? Thanks for any help in advance, Tom|
| Suntour made a Cyclone, Arx and a Lepree with a 3 pulley cage. I've got one NOS and my wife Elizabeth uses one on her Lemond with bar cons on a 7 speed freewheel. I haven't tried it on an 8 but I'm fairly sure there's more travel left. It shifts just as well as the rest of the Suntour line but it may be slightly noisier.|
One discussion group (http://tinyurl.com/hfw33) suggests this derailleur will take up 42 teeth of chain. Does this mean it will accomodate a 32 tooth cog?
I may be able to find another of these NOS if you want me look into it. I know a source.